So, the degree of burn-in on display here is after 9,000 hours. If you leave the machine on constantly on a single image, that's more than a full year. If you play for like, three hours a day every day, you would see these results after eight years. That's eight years of a static element, which is only really noticeable if it's been at 1000 nits. That's a pretty definitive 'don't worry about it' for all the people terrified of oled screens.
I have my Steam Deck connected to a dumb HDMI switcher-when I want to turn off the screen, I set the input to the Steam Deck... and turn my TV off. My Deck is none the wiser.
@@helbertgascon It can't be seen on any uniformity tests. I'm also not blasting it on full brightness cause no point indoors, I also have an OLED tv and PC monitor none of which have issues. If you handle them with care, play different games not just one all day every day/watch different stuff not just one channel, put them in stand by for the compensation cycles to run, you won't have problems. Also as a note, the test presented in the video is clearly burned in because he wanted to burn it in, by running it 24/7 for months, on the same image at full brightness. OLED pixels are sensitive to all of those factors, but no one plays 24/7 and if they do they should visit a doctor cause sleeping and touching grass should be part of your daily routine...
I only use my performance overlay in games selectively on my Deck OLED. Trying a new game? I'll run the performance overlay long enough to decide what I should set the per-game refresh rate to be (generally either 90 fps/90 Hz, 60 fps/60 Hz, or 45 fps/90 Hz) and then I turn it off. But I prefer to leave performance overlays off for PC games in general. I'll selectively use it on my Windows handheld (GPD Win Max 2) to help figure out ideal TDP for a game, but I don't like having performance metrics distracting me if I'm actually playing.
My steam deck oled has 99% battery health after 10 months and i don't see any big difference since i bought it but I'm also curious how it will perform after this test
I think Valve have set the charge controller to charge to 100% when initially plugged in but to then stop charging and let the charge drop to 90% before maintaining state of charge at 90% to save wear on the battery
@@joeykeilholz925 The opposite would happen. The black bars won’t “burn-in”, but the 4:3 section pixels will get dimmer over time. Thereby having bright sides of the screen when you play full screen games.
@@joeykeilholz925no, the opposite is true. This will definitely accelerate burn in because the pixels that are turned off will age less than the area that's displaying the 4:3 image. You'll clearly see lines dividing both areas
Many people keep saying OLED doesn't have burn in anymore and that's false, it does have. May take a very long time but eventually it will have. Happened to my LG C7. In saying that I hope by time it has burn in you can buy a replacement screen and replace it yourself. Plus nowadays people want the greatest and latest so by the time it has burn in people will be buying the Steam Deck 3. Regardless I much rather use mini LED and OLED nowadays.
It wont be that's why you asked. its like every other battery. Just ask the question properly... how much was your battery lasting compared to how long it lasts now?
I've had an HDR OLED OnePlus since early 2020. I've got burn-in in exactly one area (title bar), and it's not visible unless that part of the screen is black.
I'm a little scared by how suppressed your channel is... Maybe add a yellow background around your silhouette? I mean something needs to change because I genuinely don't know why you're not getting more views compared to retro game corpe. Not that it's a competition mind you. But it really seems like something is off when it comes to your channel specifically on the Algorithm
Hopefully the Steam Deck 3, or Steam Deck Lite, will have an OLED that doesn't use (such a poor implementation of) PWM. Even at 100% brightness it's flickering (PWM) frequency is way too low. And it only gets worse when you dim yhe brightness. They need to use a different panel, or use a vastly higher PWM frequency, and/or offer a software option to use DC dimming instead. I'm surprised Valve dropped the ball on this because these problems have been discovered and dealt with in smartphones for years by the time Steam Deck OLED came out, so it's unusual that they would disregard this established wisdom for a device that's going to be used in continuous viewing sessions.
I just got my OLED Steam Deck a few months ago, and this question has never crossed my mind. I only game at about 70% brightness, and I almost never leave the screen on with a static image in place. I would have to do so many things all at once and leave my unit running to boot, it seems like a 1 in a billion situation in all honesty. But informative info all the same, so thanks for that Phawx, as I always feel slightly smarter having watched any of your videos.
It's not a 1 in a billion situation at all, all OLEDs will eventually get burn in because burn in is just continuous wear. Static elements only accelerate this. This will obviously only happen after thousands of hours, but it will still happen even with mixed usage.
i hope the next steam deck comes with LCD panel (or make the panels easily replaceable without having to disassemble the whole device, just unscrew it from the top)... I kinda hate following a mental flow chart everytime I power on the device in order to avoid damaging it
OLED is a consumable and Valve knows it. That's why they have your ass covered-- Let's say your screen somehow got burnt-in, there is a $99 iFixit kit so you can replace it with a brand new one. It's damn easy to install (you don't even have to pop the back of the device open), and I don't mind spending $99 on a device that I would use 1000hr/year...
the problem i have with static images as an "accelerated" wear test for oled burning out is that it's accelerating largely irrelevant wear. almost no one is worried about their oled deck wearing with a static image, because thats extremely atypical usage. it's like doing accelerated testing on an engine by mixing sand in the oil and bypassing the filter. or testing a mouse button by hitting it with a hammer. I propose that dynamic content be shown instead with occasional temporary static elements (like game huds, really just use mixed game footage as dynamic content), while overdriving the oled panel (or at least max brightness without the artificial gain) in an environment at or above the upper limit of the display's operating temperature, without stopping. The high temps, continuous operation, and max non gain brightness setting provides the acceleration, while the dynamic content provides more typical wear that is actually relevant to the average consumer. It will take longer to get visible results but it is still accelerated, and more importantly the wear will be better representative of what can be expected. dont get me wrong wear from static content is still valuable information, but it's not accelerated wear any better than hitting the deck with a baseball bat to test impact resistance.
When you need a long winded explanation of why what you did is useful it's probably not. It just sounds like your trying to scare people into thinking you have something of value to say.
I still cant get over how the thumbnail and intro blend together perfectly
:D thanks
Yes, the editing is always chef's kiss
You forgot to mention our eyes also get burn-in
Silly me!
A tip for those who leave MangoHud overlay active ALL the time: JUST STOP IT
If you play the games and not the stats, you'll have a lot more fun xD
NEVER! Muhahahahahaaaa
So, the degree of burn-in on display here is after 9,000 hours. If you leave the machine on constantly on a single image, that's more than a full year. If you play for like, three hours a day every day, you would see these results after eight years. That's eight years of a static element, which is only really noticeable if it's been at 1000 nits.
That's a pretty definitive 'don't worry about it' for all the people terrified of oled screens.
Yeah but JerryRigEverything literally lights screens on fire with a lighter.
That's the REAL BURN IN test.
The max brightness leaves scratches at SDR with deeper grooves at HDR.
Mad props for making your own Unity game to test this! Color me impressed!
This is why I download games in Desktop mode. There’s a setting that lets the device stay on and the screen turn off.
I have my Steam Deck connected to a dumb HDMI switcher-when I want to turn off the screen, I set the input to the Steam Deck... and turn my TV off. My Deck is none the wiser.
MagicBlack plugin can help in that case. It applies a static black image on the entire screen. That way it's like screen off.
I just put my brightness down to lowest when I'm downloading a game. I've got fiber so it never takes that long.
Remember minimum brightness is 2 nits. Far far below sdr 100 even.
@andgtr08 I've never heard of that surprisingly. I always used reshadeck. It comes with a black shader
I have over 1200h of normal usage on my SD OLED and it has 0 burn-in problems, there is really nothing to worry about.
Fun fact: It has a lot of burn in already. You just can't see it 😂
I hope you're not OCD though 😁
@@helbertgascon It can't be seen on any uniformity tests. I'm also not blasting it on full brightness cause no point indoors, I also have an OLED tv and PC monitor none of which have issues. If you handle them with care, play different games not just one all day every day/watch different stuff not just one channel, put them in stand by for the compensation cycles to run, you won't have problems.
Also as a note, the test presented in the video is clearly burned in because he wanted to burn it in, by running it 24/7 for months, on the same image at full brightness. OLED pixels are sensitive to all of those factors, but no one plays 24/7 and if they do they should visit a doctor cause sleeping and touching grass should be part of your daily routine...
I wish there was a performance overlay corner location randomizer. I just want to see fps but don't want fps eventually burned in
I only use my performance overlay in games selectively on my Deck OLED. Trying a new game? I'll run the performance overlay long enough to decide what I should set the per-game refresh rate to be (generally either 90 fps/90 Hz, 60 fps/60 Hz, or 45 fps/90 Hz) and then I turn it off. But I prefer to leave performance overlays off for PC games in general. I'll selectively use it on my Windows handheld (GPD Win Max 2) to help figure out ideal TDP for a game, but I don't like having performance metrics distracting me if I'm actually playing.
What about the battery life?
Can you check the battery health,
My steam deck oled has 99% battery health after 10 months and i don't see any big difference since i bought it but I'm also curious how it will perform after this test
I think Valve have set the charge controller to charge to 100% when initially plugged in but to then stop charging and let the charge drop to 90% before maintaining state of charge at 90% to save wear on the battery
Your reminder to not go over 75% brightness when in HDR since it's just a gain trick and doesn't actually increase peak luminance.
Can you make inverted image to burn good pixels so you will not notice burning one ?
What's the risk of burn-in when you often play non-native aspect ratio games (e.g. emulated 4:3 content)?
It would be less. The black part of the screen isn't going to burn in
@@joeykeilholz925 The opposite would happen. The black bars won’t “burn-in”, but the 4:3 section pixels will get dimmer over time. Thereby having bright sides of the screen when you play full screen games.
@@joeykeilholz925no, the opposite is true. This will definitely accelerate burn in because the pixels that are turned off will age less than the area that's displaying the 4:3 image. You'll clearly see lines dividing both areas
Definitely don't need to worry about it.
5:30 is there a way to reduce the brightness of mango hud?
When enabling the performance hud, lower the brightness temporarily.
Thanks Phawx!
Many people keep saying OLED doesn't have burn in anymore and that's false, it does have. May take a very long time but eventually it will have. Happened to my LG C7. In saying that I hope by time it has burn in you can buy a replacement screen and replace it yourself. Plus nowadays people want the greatest and latest so by the time it has burn in people will be buying the Steam Deck 3. Regardless I much rather use mini LED and OLED nowadays.
is battery life still the same after all these hours plugged in?
It wont be that's why you asked. its like every other battery. Just ask the question properly...
how much was your battery lasting compared to how long it lasts now?
Speaking of, a battery health tool would be nice. Not 100% if it exists.
The blue emitter wears fastest. Any color with a blue component is the worst for burn in.
Smartphones have HDR on OLED portable devices, and have before the Steam Deck OLED
You are correct haha. I thought I specified gaming handheld, but it's quite possible I didn't at all XD
I've had an HDR OLED OnePlus since early 2020. I've got burn-in in exactly one area (title bar), and it's not visible unless that part of the screen is black.
Your content is in god mode Phawx.
You Rawx!
Displays matter.
Thanks for doing this and sacrificing a display ;)
0:35 ITS OVER 9000!!!
M
I'm a little scared by how suppressed your channel is...
Maybe add a yellow background around your silhouette?
I mean something needs to change because I genuinely don't know why you're not getting more views compared to retro game corpe.
Not that it's a competition mind you.
But it really seems like something is off when it comes to your channel specifically on the Algorithm
I use my SD Oled normally and enjoy it fantastic screen, if it burns simply replace the panel and carry on!
Hopefully the Steam Deck 3, or Steam Deck Lite, will have an OLED that doesn't use (such a poor implementation of) PWM. Even at 100% brightness it's flickering (PWM) frequency is way too low. And it only gets worse when you dim yhe brightness. They need to use a different panel, or use a vastly higher PWM frequency, and/or offer a software option to use DC dimming instead.
I'm surprised Valve dropped the ball on this because these problems have been discovered and dealt with in smartphones for years by the time Steam Deck OLED came out, so it's unusual that they would disregard this established wisdom for a device that's going to be used in continuous viewing sessions.
Another sick intro?? I thought we talked about this 😂
My minds burnt out
Remember guys! Dont leave your deck on for 7000 hours and youre good!
you have the same video but with the lcd?
Lcd doesn't burn
Hi Phawx!
LCD gang 🙌🏽
booo
I just got my OLED Steam Deck a few months ago, and this question has never crossed my mind. I only game at about 70% brightness, and I almost never leave the screen on with a static image in place. I would have to do so many things all at once and leave my unit running to boot, it seems like a 1 in a billion situation in all honesty. But informative info all the same, so thanks for that Phawx, as I always feel slightly smarter having watched any of your videos.
It's not a 1 in a billion situation at all, all OLEDs will eventually get burn in because burn in is just continuous wear. Static elements only accelerate this. This will obviously only happen after thousands of hours, but it will still happen even with mixed usage.
Its hard to get it to burn in and you have to work at it. If you're careful it'll take longer but it'll happen eventually? Let's just say 10 years?
i hope the next steam deck comes with LCD panel (or make the panels easily replaceable without having to disassemble the whole device, just unscrew it from the top)... I kinda hate following a mental flow chart everytime I power on the device in order to avoid damaging it
I will get concerned if i had the FPS counter all the time. Its also that may be on all the time.
Oh no it finally happened
OLED is a consumable and Valve knows it. That's why they have your ass covered--
Let's say your screen somehow got burnt-in, there is a $99 iFixit kit so you can replace it with a brand new one.
It's damn easy to install (you don't even have to pop the back of the device open), and I don't mind spending $99 on a device that I would use 1000hr/year...
Any way to remove these after you tested them haha?
the problem i have with static images as an "accelerated" wear test for oled burning out is that it's accelerating largely irrelevant wear. almost no one is worried about their oled deck wearing with a static image, because thats extremely atypical usage. it's like doing accelerated testing on an engine by mixing sand in the oil and bypassing the filter. or testing a mouse button by hitting it with a hammer.
I propose that dynamic content be shown instead with occasional temporary static elements (like game huds, really just use mixed game footage as dynamic content), while overdriving the oled panel (or at least max brightness without the artificial gain) in an environment at or above the upper limit of the display's operating temperature, without stopping. The high temps, continuous operation, and max non gain brightness setting provides the acceleration, while the dynamic content provides more typical wear that is actually relevant to the average consumer. It will take longer to get visible results but it is still accelerated, and more importantly the wear will be better representative of what can be expected.
dont get me wrong wear from static content is still valuable information, but it's not accelerated wear any better than hitting the deck with a baseball bat to test impact resistance.
ifixit has replacement oled SD screens for $100
When you need a long winded explanation of why what you did is useful it's probably not. It just sounds like your trying to scare people into thinking you have something of value to say.
You're right, I don't have to worry about it because I'm never going to buy another OLED handheld if PWM flicker remains an issue.
Noice.
Surprise: OLED panel has burnin. Yes. Thanks. I don’t want to sound salty but I don’t really get the point of these videos.