dont know if you guys gives a shit but if you're stoned like me atm you can watch pretty much all the latest movies on InstaFlixxer. Have been watching with my gf for the last couple of weeks xD
Another enjoyable video. Note: 60mA could kill any indicator LED. They are nearly all made for 20mA. Also when testing them, they are constant current devices, so picking a voltage is wrong. Set the power supply to 4V and current limit to 20mA, or use a 300-500 ohm resistor. Most reds will drop 1.5 to 2.5V, but you don't know beforehand.
thulinp Remember the 60 MA was a short across the diode. With the voltage drop of the diode the actual current across the led will be less than this. I will measure it tomorrow and let you know that it is.
it'll be 10V drop I think (you measured 12), giving 500 ohm for 20mA. Often though it's good to have less than 20 mA, so brightness matches the other lights. To be clear, I don't want to discourage you, I really like your videos.
For modern indicator LEDs it's good to aim for 10mA. That will give you a long lasting LED with plenty of brightness. And also a cool running resistor, as long as the voltage is within reason. Older LEDs can be less efficient, but then I believe we're talking at least 20-30 years old or so.
The drop is 2.4 volts across the diode junction, and current is 33mA. The resistor that went in, even though the camera doesn't show the color very well is red grey brown, 280 ohm. This is a very old, inefficient LED, that is at least 35 or 40 years old. It was in a box that was given to me. @ 33mA I do not expect any issues. I might have said I was thinking 150 ohm which would drive 60ma, that would be too much. Remember, when I got into this initially I thought there was an LED in there, and the original resistor was a limit for that, so I was initially going to double the value, but didn't have a 150, the closest I had was a 280, and after pulling the panel and seeing an incandescent bulb in there I knew the 280 was probably closer to what I needed.
I had a friend of mine who was looking at trashing a heavy duty pioneer stereo amplifier receiver with built-in radio tuner that was playing up bad both with radio tuner and amplifier sound,,,it was a lot of dry circuit board joints along with a lot of dust,,,took me 3 hours to solder over 100 dry joints and a lot of cleaning and re-fine tuning the trimpots inside for both am/fm bands,,including getting fm stereo working again. Had also found what looked like moisture condensation inside which had affected the radio reception,,,once had cleaned it up,,,it worked real nicely,,,along with the rest of the amplifier sound,,,didn't have contact cleaner back then in those days,,,but I had managed to clean out the rotary volume and tone control pots with compressed air,,which happened to do the trick. Had got it all working really well and the owner paid me over $100 for the job,,,and the stereo still works well 2day,,,after keeping it in clean storage for some time while moving house,,,and he eventually sold it,,,,he got paid more than he sold it for,,,as he described the repair history it had,,,altogether.
Thank you for doing these informative videos!! I am learning a lot. I don't know about other places but where I live in Perth, Western Australia, you can often pick up discarded electronics as peoples roadside junk when they have collection days, about twice a year. Picked up a JVC tuner a lot like this one (in your video) from the roadside. You have to make extremely sure it isn't wet from rain at the very least. And be very careful when plugging in. But in my case it works very well. I have often thought older jvc stuff was built to a very high standard....cheers!
That's smashing :-D That's a very decent tuner, i have a lot of time for old designs, through hole parts are so much simpler to change, with smd you need a rework station and a microscope. Plus jibberish numbers on resistors. Ok im old fashoned lol. When you said 12 volts i thought it could be a bulb, the 100ma just shouted bulb. That led is taking roughly 66ma, i think that led is lazy, it's not over bright.
one does not see the digits of the frequency displayed, I suppose it’s just the camera view. Great tutorial. Thanks a lot. I’m trying to fix my Onkyo tuner.
If the gray wire is going to the “stereo” LED, just splice in a 1k resistor, and put heat-shrink tubing over it. (Rled = (Vcc - Vled)/Iled = (12 - 1.7)/.01 = 1030 ohms) Since this is in series with the existing dropper resistor, either subtract it’s value from 1k, or bridge the existing dropper. This should run the red LED at a comfortable 10 mA or so. 😄
The resistor that went in, even though the color bands don't show well on camera is red grey brown. 280 ohm. diode is passing 33mA which is well within the spec for a old GaAs red LED. In fact those old GaAs LEDs can handle 50 mA continuous 75mA peak. This is NOT a new LED. That box of parts I have is old stock, all goes back to the mid 70's. Now, modern LED are much more efficient. People jump in on the comments without knowing the facts. These are very old parts, and they have different current requirements than modern ones.
12voltvids - Even so; just because one can do a thing, it doesn’t follow that one should. And the LED will run cool, and last a lot longer at 10-15 mA or so. Besides, like a lot of men, I have red-green color blindness; I can’t tell what color the color bands on the resistor are - an auto-ranging DMM is a must for me! 😃 Plus, calculating it for 10 mA makes the calculation easier; just multiply by 100!
I love how much flux (brown residue) is on the solder side of pcb from when it was built. Now a days its a big no no and why it it cost too much to build consumer electronics in north America.
This is from the era of wave soldering. Today everthing is SMD and baked in an oven. The flus is still there, but much less is used, as the solder is applied as a paste with little solder balls embedded. When it heats the solder flows.
Great work on the tuner. When I saw this system for sale and saw especially the quality of the speakers I hoped I had found something unique and of good (if not great) quality. Looking forward to you working on the rest of the components. Other manufacturers made similar systems as I recall, Yamaha being one, but this one seemed to me to have a style all its own. We'll see how the sound is soon. Right Dave? As always thanks.
Did the amp tonight. You will appreciate the effort to restore this piece as it had multiple problems including the stupid volume control drive motor. Yes it is a mechanical standard volume control, that is turned by a motor and that motor was shot. Not available, so I had to take the motor apart and rebuild it. That video has just been edited and will be up later. you are correct, it sounds great. Amp has big beefy output transistors.
That's interesting how it's 12 volts open circuit but has a dropping resistor. I'm a learner and that would have tripped me up no end. I remember now that a high voltage + resistor ~ current source, and LEDs want a current source.
metallitech That would be to limit current to kp making it dimmer and extending life. An incandescent running at reduced voltage lasts much longer. I have some decorative huge bulb incandescent bulbs hanging in my kitchen over a counter that run 24/7 on a dimmer as a night light. They have been running for years. 40 watt bulbs running at about 7 watts each just to provide a nice cost glow. They don't produce any heat the glass is just slightly warm and they will probably last 100,000 hours or more at this level.
(@13:25) If you look at the top of the screen (back of the unit), there’s a wire bundle with a wire-tie, and a black and a white wire that are wire-wrapped onto a stake that’s just floating in thin air; someone should have put heat-shrink tubing on that from the factory so it won’t short out. I hope those aren’t at mains potential!! 😮
That is the AM stereo adapter output, and is 455Khz IF out from the last AM IF stage. Those "stakes" are actually the leads from the read mounted rca connector, just like the ones for the audio output that are bent down and soldered to the board. If you follow the wires you will se ethem again next to the last IF transformer (with the whiteish paint on the slug) in the middle of the board.
OK - so this post is not related to this video but I wanted to try and catch 12Voltvids attention for some advice - I’m in the UK and I ordered and put together the 6J1/LM1875T hybrid amp from ICSTATION as it looked really cool and pretty straight forward to put together on the 12Voltvids review video - unfortunately this was a bit of a disaster - Please see my comments on the hybrid amp video - Any suggestions/recommendations greatly appreciated!
I have a Pioneer stereo tuner F-50S given me by a relative of mine. The mw, sw1, sw2 used to work initially. But now they have stopped. The fm never worked. Had shown it to a few repairers, but they were unable to repair saying spare parts unavailability in Bombay, India. Any suggestions, please cause I don't want to part with the vintage tuner.
technics/panasonic actually used the same am stereo out on the sa-700. sad to say i havent ever come up with an am stereo decoder other than kits you can get sadly. i would love to have one of the decoders that actually are factory made from a company and actually use that am stereo plug
rmx77 Yes I have an old pioneer chassis, I say that because someone dropped it and the real wood cabinet broke to pieces so I hung into the chassis. Highly doubt it works now or can be made usable as it had been sitting in an old unheated storage shed since the mid 90's so that one is probably a lost cause. It was really cool looking with a digital read out but analog tuner. It did work last time I remember testing it. But back then these were a dime a dozen, and nobody was preserving them. They were big , heavy units that wouldn't fit into the new stereo cabinets that were for 17" equipment.
Makes me curious to see how many of the others exhibit similar issues with old solder joints cracking and if they end up in the same places. I was working on my Sony KV-8AD11 TV and found numerous joints that were wiggling around.
Lots. Very common failure on Sony TV was a cracked solder connection on the horizontal drive transformer that resulted in a shorted horizontal output transistor.
Yes, it's super common, on any components that move, are heavy, or get hot. This is the reason they glue heavier components down. Double sided boards with vias thru the holes are much less susceptible to this. It makes me sad to see single sided boards in quality gear, especially in places with vibration or heat. You can buy silver containing solder that is a bit more durable under stress. Bending the legs down hard on the solder side might help a bit too.
Redemptus Renatus I have a kv8ad10 Love those vintage small crt sets. Wish I still had my old citizen 5" color crt. I remember my mother having it in the kitchen and watching talk to on it every day all day. We also had an rca 10" acdc set from the rv but that was tossed many years ago too.
One of the biggest problems for us geeks is the loss of Radio Shack. Abbotsford has over 150,000 residents, yet it might as well be the ass end of nowhere as far as electronic components are concerned; you have to order them on eBay if anything.
5:30 the reason why I try to avoid electronic equipment like multi meters that use AAs or AAAs instead of 9 volt batteries. Sure they give better run time but sooner or later they will leak like this. I've even found leaking cells in equipment that was still working! I thought that the cells only began to leak after they were deeply discharged so if I power up the thing and it works the cells shouldn't be leaking right? A false assumption on my part. I've yet to see a 9V alkaline in an old piece of gear not contain its corrosion. I put Energizer AA or AAA lithiums inside any equipment I care about since I'm so sick of cleaning fluffy white battery compartments :-). They're a bit pricey but at least they have a 10 year shelf life and don't seem to leak over time.
Good branded AA cells shouldn't leak. I opened a walkman that I had forgotten the batteries were in for 20 years. Not only had the Panasonic cells in there not leaked they still worked. I have seen 9V batteries leak. Inside a 9V battery 6 small cells in series. Some use cylindrical cells, others just use paper wrapped pancake cells. I have seen both types leak, but the ones that contain cylindrical less so, but they can still leak. Just an extra very thin metal cover, with a cardboard or plastic base. They do leak.
I've tried both Energizer and Duracell alkalines and they are both about on par with one another as far as leaking goes. Were they zinc carbon cells? I just opened a PS2 DVD player remote with Sony Ultra Black zinc carbon cells inside (around 16 years old) and other than a very small bit of weeping from the negative end seal the contacts were completely untouched.
The FX50 must have been an odd unit, googling it returns almost no results at all. i had that same broken GND on RCA's with a Fisher receiver i worked on about 2 years ago. was my first real project.
How were you able to determine the current through the LED without the LED in series with the multitester? If the resistor was being used as a shunt, surely the current and voltage would be much less for the LED than the bulb?
Maico Clock operated power switch? You mean on the tuner. Well that would be so it could turn the system on at a specific time to record something on the radio or just listen to the radio. As these were small systems many were used in bedrooms and used as an alarm clock. If you are referring to the "device" the unit is plugged into, that is a power meter. Measures how many watts, amps, power factor ect that the device is drawing. Commonly called a" kill a watt" but this one is a different brand. Same thing.
sorry I mean the power cord of the tuner going through a white clock-switch (see @ 7:19 on the right side of the frame) that then connects to the mains
What strikes me as odd is he don't have the correct tool for snipping wire you use a scissor and it looks like you bridged one of those contacts on that board and I will file left a board looking like that with all that flux rosin and all that gooey crap on that board I would be disappointed in the workmanship
Actually I have plenty of "side cutters" I just prefer to use my Klein electricians snips because they cut very close, and do not stress the wire when cutting. No there is nothing bridged, and flux is inert, non conductive. it will not cause any harm, and does not need to be removed.
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Your a very good technician theirs nothing u cant fix i want to be like u
dont know if you guys gives a shit but if you're stoned like me atm you can watch pretty much all the latest movies on InstaFlixxer. Have been watching with my gf for the last couple of weeks xD
@Archie Ronin yup, been watching on instaflixxer for months myself :D
@Archie Ronin yea, I've been using InstaFlixxer for since november myself =)
Another enjoyable video. Note: 60mA could kill any indicator LED. They are nearly all made for 20mA. Also when testing them, they are constant current devices, so picking a voltage is wrong. Set the power supply to 4V and current limit to 20mA, or use a 300-500 ohm resistor. Most reds will drop 1.5 to 2.5V, but you don't know beforehand.
thulinp
Remember the 60 MA was a short across the diode. With the voltage drop of the diode the actual current across the led will be less than this. I will measure it tomorrow and let you know that it is.
it'll be 10V drop I think (you measured 12), giving 500 ohm for 20mA. Often though it's good to have less than 20 mA, so brightness matches the other lights.
To be clear, I don't want to discourage you, I really like your videos.
For modern indicator LEDs it's good to aim for 10mA. That will give you a long lasting LED with plenty of brightness. And also a cool running resistor, as long as the voltage is within reason. Older LEDs can be less efficient, but then I believe we're talking at least 20-30 years old or so.
The drop is 2.4 volts across the diode junction, and current is 33mA. The resistor that went in, even though the camera doesn't show the color very well is red grey brown, 280 ohm. This is a very old, inefficient LED, that is at least 35 or 40 years old. It was in a box that was given to me. @ 33mA I do not expect any issues. I might have said I was thinking 150 ohm which would drive 60ma, that would be too much. Remember, when I got into this initially I thought there was an LED in there, and the original resistor was a limit for that, so I was initially going to double the value, but didn't have a 150, the closest I had was a 280, and after pulling the panel and seeing an incandescent bulb in there I knew the 280 was probably closer to what I needed.
You still drive that LED pretty hard, I would just put your resistor in series with the other existing one. Although red LEDs are pretty forgiving.
I had a friend of mine who was looking at trashing a heavy duty pioneer stereo amplifier receiver with built-in radio tuner that was playing up bad both with radio tuner and amplifier sound,,,it was a lot of dry circuit board joints along with a lot of dust,,,took me 3 hours to solder over 100 dry joints and a lot of cleaning and re-fine tuning the trimpots inside for both am/fm bands,,including getting fm stereo working again. Had also found what looked like moisture condensation inside which had affected the radio reception,,,once had cleaned it up,,,it worked real nicely,,,along with the rest of the amplifier sound,,,didn't have contact cleaner back then in those days,,,but I had managed to clean out the rotary volume and tone control pots with compressed air,,which happened to do the trick.
Had got it all working really well and the owner paid me over $100 for the job,,,and the stereo still works well 2day,,,after keeping it in clean storage for some time while moving house,,,and he eventually sold it,,,,he got paid more than he sold it for,,,as he described the repair history it had,,,altogether.
Thank you for doing these informative videos!! I am learning a lot. I don't know about other places but where I live in Perth, Western Australia, you can often pick up discarded electronics as peoples roadside junk when they have collection days, about twice a year. Picked up a JVC tuner a lot like this one (in your video) from the roadside. You have to make extremely sure it isn't wet from rain at the very least. And be very careful when plugging in. But in my case it works very well. I have often thought older jvc stuff was built to a very high standard....cheers!
You have great videos, I learn a lot by watching you - very enjoyable, thank you for publishing them and keep it up! 👏👍
That's smashing :-D
That's a very decent tuner, i have a lot of time for old designs, through hole parts are so much simpler to change, with smd you need a rework station and a microscope.
Plus jibberish numbers on resistors.
Ok im old fashoned lol.
When you said 12 volts i thought it could be a bulb, the 100ma just shouted bulb.
That led is taking roughly 66ma, i think that led is lazy, it's not over bright.
one does not see the digits of the frequency displayed, I suppose it’s just the camera view. Great tutorial. Thanks a lot. I’m trying to fix my Onkyo tuner.
Interesting tip with the vinegar !
You can do that same thing with vintage VCRs that use incandescent bulbs for the tape end sensors.
If the gray wire is going to the “stereo” LED, just splice in a 1k resistor, and put heat-shrink tubing over it. (Rled = (Vcc - Vled)/Iled = (12 - 1.7)/.01 = 1030 ohms) Since this is in series with the existing dropper resistor, either subtract it’s value from 1k, or bridge the existing dropper. This should run the red LED at a comfortable 10 mA or so. 😄
The resistor that went in, even though the color bands don't show well on camera is red grey brown. 280 ohm. diode is passing 33mA which is well within the spec for a old GaAs red LED. In fact those old GaAs LEDs can handle 50 mA continuous 75mA peak. This is NOT a new LED. That box of parts I have is old stock, all goes back to the mid 70's. Now, modern LED are much more efficient. People jump in on the comments without knowing the facts. These are very old parts, and they have different current requirements than modern ones.
12voltvids - Even so; just because one can do a thing, it doesn’t follow that one should. And the LED will run cool, and last a lot longer at 10-15 mA or so. Besides, like a lot of men, I have red-green color blindness; I can’t tell what color the color bands on the resistor are - an auto-ranging DMM is a must for me! 😃 Plus, calculating it for 10 mA makes the calculation easier; just multiply by 100!
Very nice video ,and very thoughtfully done ,but you missed changing super cap on unit a big thumps up
This unit uses batteries for the memory backup. Did not not see the batteries that had corroded.
I love how much flux (brown residue) is on the solder side of pcb from when it was built. Now a days its a big no no and why it it cost too much to build consumer electronics in north America.
This is from the era of wave soldering. Today everthing is SMD and baked in an oven. The flus is still there, but much less is used, as the solder is applied as a paste with little solder balls embedded. When it heats the solder flows.
Dave, a big Well Done on your run down on CD transports on the PS audio page
You clever bastid :o)
Great work on the tuner. When I saw this system for sale and saw especially the quality of the speakers I hoped I had found something unique and of good (if not great) quality. Looking forward to you working on the rest of the components. Other manufacturers
made similar systems as I recall, Yamaha being one, but this one seemed to me to have a style all its own. We'll see how the sound is soon. Right Dave? As always thanks.
Did the amp tonight. You will appreciate the effort to restore this piece as
it had multiple problems including the stupid volume control drive motor. Yes it is a mechanical standard volume control, that is turned by a motor and that motor was shot. Not available, so I had to take the motor apart and rebuild it.
That video has just been edited and will be up later. you are correct, it sounds great. Amp has big beefy output transistors.
Great video. I wish i had you talent.
That's interesting how it's 12 volts open circuit but has a dropping resistor. I'm a learner and that would have tripped me up no end. I remember now that a high voltage + resistor ~ current source, and LEDs want a current source.
metallitech
That would be to limit current to kp making it dimmer and extending life. An incandescent running at reduced voltage lasts much longer. I have some decorative huge bulb incandescent bulbs hanging in my kitchen over a counter that run 24/7 on a dimmer as a night light. They have been running for years. 40 watt bulbs running at about 7 watts each just to provide a nice cost glow. They don't produce any heat the glass is just slightly warm and they will probably last 100,000 hours or more at this level.
(@13:25) If you look at the top of the screen (back of the unit), there’s a wire bundle with a wire-tie, and a black and a white wire that are wire-wrapped onto a stake that’s just floating in thin air; someone should have put heat-shrink tubing on that from the factory so it won’t short out. I hope those aren’t at mains potential!! 😮
That is the AM stereo adapter output, and is 455Khz IF out from the last AM IF stage. Those "stakes" are actually the leads from the read mounted rca connector, just like the ones for the audio output that are bent down and soldered to the board. If you follow the wires you will se ethem again next to the last IF transformer (with the whiteish paint on the slug) in the middle of the board.
OK - so this post is not related to this video but I wanted to try and catch 12Voltvids attention for some advice - I’m in the UK and I ordered and put together the 6J1/LM1875T hybrid amp from ICSTATION as it looked really cool and pretty straight forward to put together on the 12Voltvids review video - unfortunately this was a bit of a disaster - Please see my comments on the hybrid amp video - Any suggestions/recommendations greatly appreciated!
i had a Technics CD player that had a faulty out put jack. they had to be skimpy with solder
I have a Pioneer stereo tuner F-50S given me by a relative of mine. The mw, sw1, sw2 used to work initially. But now they have stopped. The fm never worked. Had shown it to a few repairers, but they were unable to repair saying spare parts unavailability in Bombay, India. Any suggestions, please cause I don't want to part with the vintage tuner.
technics/panasonic actually used the same am stereo out on the sa-700. sad to say i havent ever come up with an am stereo decoder other than kits you can get sadly. i would love to have one of the decoders that actually are factory made from a company and actually use that am stereo plug
rmx77
Yes I have an old pioneer chassis, I say that because someone dropped it and the real wood cabinet broke to pieces so I hung into the chassis. Highly doubt it works now or can be made usable as it had been sitting in an old unheated storage shed since the mid 90's so that one is probably a lost cause. It was really cool looking with a digital read out but analog tuner. It did work last time I remember testing it. But back then these were a dime a dozen, and nobody was preserving them. They were big , heavy units that wouldn't fit into the new stereo cabinets that were for 17" equipment.
Makes me curious to see how many of the others exhibit similar issues with old solder joints cracking and if they end up in the same places. I was working on my Sony KV-8AD11 TV and found numerous joints that were wiggling around.
Lots. Very common failure on Sony TV was a cracked solder connection on the horizontal drive transformer that resulted in a shorted horizontal output transistor.
Yes, it's super common, on any components that move, are heavy, or get hot. This is the reason they glue heavier components down. Double sided boards with vias thru the holes are much less susceptible to this. It makes me sad to see single sided boards in quality gear, especially in places with vibration or heat.
You can buy silver containing solder that is a bit more durable under stress. Bending the legs down hard on the solder side might help a bit too.
Redemptus Renatus
I have a kv8ad10
Love those vintage small crt sets. Wish I still had my old citizen 5" color crt. I remember my mother having it in the kitchen and watching talk to on it every day all day. We also had an rca 10" acdc set from the rv but that was tossed many years ago too.
One of the biggest problems for us geeks is the loss of Radio Shack. Abbotsford has over 150,000 residents, yet it might as well be the ass end of nowhere as far as electronic components are concerned; you have to order them on eBay if anything.
Lee's is a bit of a drive from Abbotsford isn't it.
@@12voltvids Over 45 miles. Long way if you haven't a car.
5:30 the reason why I try to avoid electronic equipment like multi meters that use AAs or AAAs instead of 9 volt batteries.
Sure they give better run time but sooner or later they will leak like this. I've even found leaking cells in equipment that was still working!
I thought that the cells only began to leak after they were deeply discharged so if I power up the thing and it works the cells shouldn't be leaking right? A false assumption on my part. I've yet to see a 9V alkaline in an old piece of gear not contain its corrosion.
I put Energizer AA or AAA lithiums inside any equipment I care about since I'm so sick of cleaning fluffy white battery compartments :-). They're a bit pricey but at least they have a 10 year shelf life and don't seem to leak over time.
Good branded AA cells shouldn't leak. I opened a walkman that I had forgotten the batteries were in for 20 years. Not only had the Panasonic cells in there not leaked they still worked. I have seen 9V batteries leak. Inside a 9V battery 6 small cells in series. Some use cylindrical cells, others just use paper wrapped pancake cells. I have seen both types leak, but the ones that contain cylindrical less so, but they can still leak. Just an extra very thin metal cover, with a cardboard or plastic base. They do leak.
I've tried both Energizer and Duracell alkalines and they are both about on par with one another as far as leaking goes.
Were they zinc carbon cells? I just opened a PS2 DVD player remote with Sony Ultra Black zinc carbon cells inside (around 16 years old) and other than a very small bit of weeping from the negative end seal the contacts were completely untouched.
just like 22 years earlier when stereo fm was about to be approved
The FX50 must have been an odd unit, googling it returns almost no results at all. i had that same broken GND on RCA's with a Fisher receiver i worked on about 2 years ago. was my first real project.
How were you able to determine the current through the LED without the LED in series with the multitester? If the resistor was being used as a shunt, surely the current and voltage would be much less for the LED than the bulb?
I put the peter in series with the LED. It is 33mA BTW.
May have used the bulb vs. Led in the 80's due to price point of a red one then.
Yes probably. LED would have cost 2 cents, and light bulb 1 cent.
Reflow Question, If you were to have a desoldering iron is it sometimes better to remove the old solder with new rather than adding?
Only if you suspect it's using lead-free solder, and you aren't. It's not good to mix them.
I never even bother with lead free. Just flow over it.
Do you plan on selling this system?
what were you using the clock operated power switch for ?
Maico
Clock operated power switch? You mean on the tuner. Well that would be so it could turn the system on at a specific time to record something on the radio or just listen to the radio. As these were small systems many were used in bedrooms and used as an alarm clock.
If you are referring to the "device" the unit is plugged into, that is a power meter. Measures how many watts, amps, power factor ect that the device is drawing. Commonly called a" kill a watt" but this one is a different brand. Same thing.
sorry I mean the power cord of the tuner going through a white clock-switch (see @ 7:19 on the right side of the frame) that then connects to the mains
I'm just saying you know not to be too critical but it just looks crappy like a screwdriver job when somebody looks in there especially another tech
What strikes me as odd is he don't have the correct tool for snipping wire you use a scissor and it looks like you bridged one of those contacts on that board and I will file left a board looking like that with all that flux rosin and all that gooey crap on that board I would be disappointed in the workmanship
Actually I have plenty of "side cutters" I just prefer to use my Klein electricians snips because they cut very close, and do not stress the wire when cutting. No there is nothing bridged, and flux is inert, non conductive. it will not cause any harm, and does not need to be removed.
Yuck vinegar is not a nice smell or taste. Can’t stand the stuff! 🤢