Don’t Arc Around with MC4 Connectors - Solar Panel Installation
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- Ensuring correct and secure connections of MC4 connectors in solar PV installations is crucial to prevent devastating consequences. In this video, we demonstrate the proper technique for making off MC4 connectors and the importance of using the right tools. Watch till the end to see what can go wrong when these practices are neglected.
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00:00 Making off MC4 connectors correctly is crucial
00:42 Making off an MC4 connector close-up
04:15 What happens if the connectors aren't made off correctly?
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#solarpanelinstallation #solarpv #electricalinstallation - Наука та технологія
1:40: That has got to be THE best feature of any connector ever: Being able to put the plastic part over the metal part AFTER the connection to the wire has been made. My personal odds of forgetting to slide the plastic part over the cable at the right time must be 50% or more.
👍🏻
While I agree it’s super handy, that is not unique to MC4 connectors - most crimp connectors, from big ones like this to tiny things with 1mm pin pitch, work that way. The only crimped terminals I can think of that require forethought are uninsulated faston (spade) terminals, if you want to slip an insulating boot on.
Yes, I had to remake several connections because I forgot that...
One reason why its safer to stick to lower voltages, most UK homes do not need so many panels in series, the small amount of money you are saving on the copper in the cables is negligible. just run a few 6mm2 cables rather than throwing hopes and prayers on a single connector, its insane to me. I have an array of 9x410w panels (3s3p), pretty standard 3.7kw and my open circuit voltage sits around 100v, it can still arc but wont be crazy like that 500v video.
@@KrysRevamps as Thomas Sowell stars "there are no solutions only trade offs".
Cheap affordable power is the solution, neither green activity or commercial interests are interested in cheap affordable power.
This is because green movement is based on nature worship and commercial interests want the world plus 5%.
I worked as a solar installer during 2013-2016 then became a solar maintenance technician. During that time I mastered both AC/DC parts including connecting the system to the utility and commissioning it.
Just out here tooting our own horn, nice.
Good job
I already working in solar system
You are professionals
Don't forget to use compatible connectors, usually the same manufacturer, to ensure they do make proper contact. Technically they should all be interchangeable but we all know how sloppy the generic stuff is.
I think it’s even better to just avoid generic stuff, period. It’s not only sloppy mating with others, it’s sloppy with itself. Better to spend the money for the genuine Stäubli.
Wow !! Thank you for this video
Great video as always Gaz
👍🏻
Will worth while showing how you protect the string cable coming out under the tile? Flashing with cable grommets?
Kindky advise how easy way to pv diesel generator controls like 160 kw solar and 80 kw diesel gensets
Hi,is there any tool to cut out automatically that skin off the wire or you have to measure your self everytime that annoying half of inch? (i think ..half of inch?tell me if i am wrong) Please anybody?
Can I go from one to 2 panels while system is on 4 to 2 Y cable
Correct crimping is critical. Seen plenty fail due to wrong crimping. Fire hazard if not done properly.
What is the MPn of the connector you are using ?
Its very helpful for new
Nice demonstration.
In continuation of the discussion: can be interesting our solution, alternative to TESLA roofing (cheaper and "greener")?
Nice video eFIXX 👀
I soldered all my solar panel MC4 connections for my van with four 320w panels connected in series parallell giving 80v. I also covered the entire connection with self vulcanizing tape to be sure they would be watertight.
So how do you get the arc at 80v? It seems you need at least 300-400v.
Arc requires no mote than about 30V.
Don't forget to check wire polarity before crimping connector.
❤❤❤
Nice job
Keep it up
Haha, i love the comment. “Sometimes these might be live aswell” yeh, those things do matter when you start stripping wire. Better do that on a shady day if not sure.
I always cover the panels with a heavy blanket before making those connections. Preferably do it on a very overcast day, too.
I prefer solid mc4 crimps instead of bent metal type
Had a DC isolator fail and had no choice but to pull leads under load. covering all panels or wait till dark was to much hassle. Playing with arc much more fun.
I use the MC4 connector to weld because the crimpaphil gripper is not reliable.
That’s not a genuine MC4 from Staubli Connectors, but a copy MC4 from a different manufacturer.
Special tool for putting MC4 connectors apart is zip tie🙃
I just use my index fingers
Significant
Also, use an Arcbox from Viridian Solar.
Points from the video...
Hard Hats missing on occasion. Using the rails as a ladder and probably damaging the roof tiles under the bracket and the validity of the bracket fixing.
..and as I see on so many roofs , not supporting the cables correctly, leaving them touching/rubbing against the abrasive
roof tiles, which over time is a high risk of fire..
@@paulrichards1061 who needs an F-ing hard hat on a roof ?
aircraft parts gone missing and precisely knocking the PV installers off the roof ? 😂
I hate that everyone in solar immediately tells you to series your panels.
There are so many reasons why not to to do this in a lot of certain applications. It boggles me that people say that without even knowing how the house in question receives sunlight anyway.
I want that crimping tool!
They are _very expensive_ and unless you are a professional you will probably only use it once or twice.
There are 10mm² MC4 Connectors as well to go with 10 mm² cable for larger installations
No. Calculate the required thickness (CSA) of cable required. Then use appropriate thickness cable and suitable rated connectors.
There is no need to guess, and guessing carries risk. Eliminate that risk and do the job properly.
I Crimp and then Solder any connection where possible, its overkill but never had any connections fail or overheat in any application
Very bad practice. If you’ve done your crimp properly (which means it’s gas tight) then no solder will enter the crimp area itself, but the solder will wick up your wire and create a rigid area _outside of your strain relief_ where flexing can break the wire.
If you’re feeling the need to reinforce your crimps with solder, the problem is lousy crimps. Improve them rather than adding solder.
WRONG!
AHH but solder will flow across more surface of the wire and the crimp metal therefore making a far better resistance.
The connentor semms very good quality and same us
seems
Not the best way to do it.
You should ensure the cable reaches into the cylinder as the actual conductor, is the neck between the crimp and fixing....
30amp rating apparently...
Next evolution in DC connectivity: MC4(100mm) connectors. 🔋⚡😇
Coming to a 50KA DC electrified railway near you soon! 🚈⚡😉
Individual solar generating roof tiles MUST be the answer to those ugly panels , please comment .... DAVE™🛑
I crimped and then soldered to ensure absolute minimum resistance. Not messing around with this high power DC stuff. Sure, extra time but safety first for me.
People like you are the reason for electrical fires. Crimped connection shall never be soldered after.
The only ones that care are ensurance companies.
I really hate high voltage DC for good reasons.
I have more respect for my 48V battery than our grid connection.
When it shorts, those 280Ah cells dump serious current.
Agreed, all those ( ofter to thin ) DC cables running over the roof, making tight bends everywhere... I also hate it.
Thats why I went for Enphase with micro inverters, much safter and simply better for good reasons.
Probably also much more install friendly.
The use of DC cables should be reduced to a minimun.
Also the losses in a good length of DC cables are pretty significant.
Loss is the same regardless AC or DC. It is just ohms law. Use the proper wire size.
@@Sixta16 In practice, financial law competes hard with Ohms law.
That's part of an electrical engineers job.
Build it at less costs and less losses.
They are mismatching connectors in this video which is a definitive NO-NO massive error and is cause for 80% of all PV related problems/fires.
On the panels are Staubli MC4 connectors and they are assembling some other brand of connectors which is definitely not MC4 as only Staubli connectors are MC4 others are clones and reputable names have their own naming as for instance Wieldmuller MC4 clone is named WM4, Amphenol named his MC4 clones H4. No company has licence to produce MC4 named connectors as it is proprietary Staubli name, and no other connector is tested to comply long term compatibility with original MC4. This is why every reputable inverter and pannel uses Staubli original connectors.
Check out TUV Rheinland's FMEA Rating of PV Module Failures.
Mixing connectors is reat receipe for disaster. Never do that, kids, you'll burn your house down.
You are leaving to much extra length of un-crimped wire loose. If is not crimped it could arc? I am sure you hate people making these types of comments too.
The question is, is he qualified to make those ends off?lol
Well thankfully Gaz is only holding the camera 😂😂😂
@@efixxbut has he got the camera holding ticket.....?
Those are not made off to specifications. First of all: He stripped the insulation to far back.
This is the only correct way (German with subtitles):
ua-cam.com/video/sErsAfgwFrI/v-deo.htmlsi=CErfpB61degL3wMN
The void to hold the stripped wire is deliberately quite generous with MC4 connectors to allow easy in field stripping and preparation of the cable. There is no need to precisely measure the amount of insulation removed. Anyone doing so is simply burning time and the customer's money.
@retrozmachine1189 my crimper have a guide and a bit of tin which only sits down flat if the stripped wire is not to long. I have had them a long time but they keep the crimp end square and set the crimp in the jaws at a set point.
@@andyhodchild8 Nice feature but doesn't negate the fact that there is space in the terminals to accommodate a degree of excess wire.
@@andyhodchild8I am guessing you are using something like Staubli's crimper?
ua-cam.com/video/DUIOfUflD8A/v-deo.htmlsi=C1CKOwppYArtsrSb
@@retrozmachine1189I would rather spend a few seconds extra on inspecting a crimp than having a customer's house burn down.
No harness connected at 2:45 while climbing.
Why do they need harnesses with full scaffolding and what exactly is harness anchored to and at what distance?
I’m leery of the unbranded crimp tool. The more I use first-party crimp tools, the more I realize that most no-name crimp tools are crap, producing poorly formed, improperly pressed crimps.
@@tookitogo you can adjust that.
See a small wheel on it and set it.
@@dyslectische Adjusting the tension wheel cannot, and will not, make up for crappy dies. I know what I’m talking about: beyond being a trained electronics technician with an unhealthy nerd interest in connectors, I own a number of no-name tools, as well as a handful of first-party tools. And at work I have access to more. There is no comparison in the precision of the dies. The no-name tools often literally have the wrong shape in the dies (very often, they’re made to crimp wider and flatter than the real tool would), and with much sloppier tolerances. Good crimp tools specify their tolerances in hundredths of a mm. Cheap tools don’t even come close.
@@tookitogo than you talk about china product.
Thare good tools make for cheap in Germany .
What just work fine.
For the rest my self a trained electrische technician .
Special for track and trace systeem.
We only use tools that have certificate and we have recalibrate after 1 year of use.
So i do know my stuf
But again people do not pay for it .
So thare are good normal tools for normal price for a normal man to use.
@@dyslectische Well yeah, of course I mean Chinese junk. German-made tools aren’t no-name! (I have various Knipex at work. And of course the connector-name-brand tools are practically all made in either Germany, Sweden, or USA.)
However, for most connector types, there exist no decent third-party tools. So you either get the original first-party tool for $$$, or you get some Chinese junk that’s not optimized for anything, and most certainly can’t be calibrated. :/
@@dyslectische P.S. Nur aus Neugier, was ist deine eigentliche Berufsbezeichnung? (Ich bin Elektroniker EFZ, also der schweizerische Abschluss. :P )
That DIY panel lifting bridle is a bit dodgy with such a shallow angle between the legs and non locking non sutable for rigging carabineers.
4.41 of my life wasted...
They’re using a winch to lift the panels !!!!😯😯😯😯 wimps !!!🤣🤣🤣
Yes I wondered how many use a winch, I wanted to see how the winch was set up at the top. I have one but you need another rig short lift to make it work, to lift it over hand rail.
Stupid question on my part: How do you deal with any bird-sh!t that might accumulate on the panels? I know you need a clear sky facing, but you have little comtrol of avian flight paths. Are some panels more resistant to having it welded on? Does it make a difference?
Glass tends to self clean - if you have rain (obs) and the panels aren’t flat.
A bit amateur on too many levels
This system of panel racking is not good, birds build nests underneath which leads to a build up of compost between the panel and roof which can cause leaks to the roof and even combustion of the compost as composting organic matter can spontaneously ignite due to heat build up, I would never recommend a roof system over an easily maintained ground system, these systems only really make sense on accessable flat roofs