@@mcgman8058 forced the heat sink up and ripped the surface ( the thin chromy layer of the cpu) i could see the actual cores :D wasnt funny when it happened. had to replace the motherboard as I don't have the equipment to replace the cpu/gpu package.
Hey Der8auer! I have a proposal to test. Back in my university days I studied the corrosion of NdFeB magnets in regard of coating. The best results of corrosion resistance were achieved on Ni-Cu-Ni coating. Here a thin copper layer acts as a diffusion blocker. However the best way to make this is to use vapor deposition (PVD coating) instead of electroplating. The electroplated metal can be of worse crystalline quality than pvd-coated. Hope it helps in your research.
Great content! Thanks for the following up on the DIY Nickel platting project, I was wondering give it a try myself sometime at the end of the year. Regarding the result, I think it might be caused by several factors: 1. The plating is not thick enough, ion migrations between Cu and Ni was still happening through the thin player. 2. The plating surface is not smooth/ might be filled with micro-pores which allowed the ions to migrate. The solution to both of the problem could be left the heatsink in the nickel solution for a longer period and then polish the surface. Here's an interesting thought, since you are platting your own heatsink anyway. Could you use other metals? For example silver or gold. Silver has better heat conductivity than copper and may increase thermal performance.And, Gold is one of the most unreactive metal which may further help with liquid metal 'drying up' (I'm sure you are more familiar with the subject matter than I am) What I don't know is whether liquid metal (therefore, its components) will react or form alloy with Silver (and for that matter Gold too ) or not. If you have the knowledge or the reference please do share :)
More tests with nickel plating please! Honestly, I have liquid metal, but I chickened out at the last moment. I have been thinking about electro plating for a while now!
Please continue on laptop, I'm pretty sure a lot of people have thermal issues on theirs. I personally use conductonaut on mine and no nickle plating, not sure what easy solution I'll be able to find. I'm Afraid the cooler materials will suffer corrosion or degrade over time. Also, I just isolated the caps with Kapton tape. Is that fine?
I think it might be interesting to test the theory that the plating failure was caused by the aluminium (?) part of the heatsink also being submerged into the plating bath. You could get a couple of copper heatpipes, try plating some of them normally, then take the others and friction-fit them into a piece of aluminium, like a stock Intel heatsink, and try to do the plating with both the Al and the Cu submerged.
Can you also do another 3 month follow up to this. Would be interested to see the results of the reaplication :) anything you do is super cool, so if you are prepared to do any other process- go for it!
You should indeed do the electroplating as well! My ThinkPad W540, of which I nickel plated the heatsink half a year ago, is still having great temperatures. I haven't checked it again tho, it's quite a hassle to open it up and I can't have it unusable for a long time as I need it for work. I used kathodic electroplating and a nickel acetate (which I made by dissolving a nickel coin, connected to the power supply's anode, in vinegar)
I was running LM on a custom pure copper (no nickel plating) IHS for my 8700k for over a year after its initial application and got the same results. LM was dried out and infused into the copper on IHS (like a plating). Still, I did a sanity check benchmark before maintenance disassembly (custom liquid cooling loop) and temps were the same as the first day test. After thorough cleaning I've reapplied LM to the IHS and CPU die and everything is running great 7-8 months later. I only did LM reapplication because I was removing the CPU block. I've been also running LM in my old and trusty Dell laptop and it's still doing fine after about 3 years now. Other than cleaning the fan I did not removed the cooling block from it and the temps are just like they were after initial application.
You should do electro plating! It's much easier to DIY, much less dangerous and will give a thicker coating. From what I've learned in your two videos about chemical plating, the big upside is when plating weirdly shaped objects, but this is not weirdly shaped at all! Give electro plating a try, I'm sure it will be much better!
Yes more videos on nickel plating or electroplating would be very helpful. I wanted to build up a thicker metal layer on my Wera screwdriver because the bits are too loose in the handle. Unfortunately the shape is like a hex socket. So it is a difficult shape to electroplate. Perhaps I need to think of something else. But wanted a solid metal layer because it it a screwdriver. For the durability, not to wear away so quickly.
The electro formation as that process is called is quiet difficult in " uncontrolled" situations. To get even layers you need a lot of control such as PH control throughout the bath. Also anode and Kathode need really good connections to that, preferrably multiple copper wide mouth clamps. Not sure if they still produce them like that but the first gens of raiser blades from e.g. Braun were produced with the nickel electro formation. Everything need to be cleaned in depth as any oil from hand or equipment will have a negative impact on use. If I remember correctly, they use in the industry steam cleaning and solvent cleaning for that.
YEY, TG Shield! Great product! =) About LM and copper. I got "idea" to combine thin layer of graphite sheet (with adhesive layer) and LM. Graphite simply stick to copper heatsink and act as protective layer between copper and LM, but still transfer heat. Problem is, i didn't ask yet Panasonic about how LM work together with graphite. :) But i saw patents, that LM was added in CNT (carbon nano tubes).
No views, 3 likes and while there is no comment, it shows 1 Comment. Gotta love UA-cam.I do find these videos engaging. This answers the "I wonder what if....." questions.
Yeah would be cool to see more methods of plating, pls do make those videos. Unfortunately my bottle of conformal coating isn't going to run out anytime soon because despite the meme, red would make it easier to determine if I have applied it properly vs clear.
Oh cat hair and scratch marks is common with cat owners, I have 3 cats, like I have to clean my house every day, and lost count on how many scars in the arms and legs I have
I found a liquid metal called "Silver king" after 3 months the liquid metal on a bare copper cooler block was still liquid and not dry at all. Prior to this i used coollabs liquid ultra on a different cooler and that dried/plated to the block. Im not sure if theres somthing in the silver king that stops fusing
I use automotive silicone to protect the components when i apply liquid metal, i did my laptop 18 months ago, havnt check it but temps are still very good
Gasket maker RTV silicone? The one i have is acetoxy formulation, obvious by the vinegar smell while it sets; it's not suitable for electronics, can cause corrosion.
electro plating would be very interesting, to see if it is any better. If it is then I would look to see what professional nickel plating was available local to myself
I'm here for the cat. German practicality and attention for the public shall suggest you lend me the cat , to be petted while I watch your videos with consequent increased appreciation. Jokes aside would you try chrome plating if that's compatible with high grade thermal compounds ?
Yeah, try the electroplating. I'm thinking the chemical layer just didn't manage to cover the surface properly. (ie, leaving pores for the metal to suffuse through)
Interesting. I installed Conductonaut on my MSI GT72 about 2 years ago. I've also applied it direct die on a 9900k with an EK copper block. No performance degradation on either system, but now I'm curious what they look like.
I already tried electroplating nickel to heatsink baseplates and they still get stained from liquid metal. It didn't matter if it was just a thin 10um nickel layer or a thick 100um layer that took hours to plate, liquid metal will still stain it anyway.
@@ItaloLoureiro Not worth bothering as results did not come close to matching theory. The plating didn't affect performance compared to bare copper. Only thing it's good for is preventing copper oxidation but a can of Brasso will fix that for an order of magnitude lower cost, time, and health risk (nickel is a skin sensitiser).
Applied Conductonaut on the bare copper Heatkiller IV waterblock with my old 1080 Ti and after about 2 years, the temperature went up by 10-15 degrees. So yeah buy a Nickel Plated waterblock is most ideal. For Laptop just stick to thermal paste and use ThrottleStop to reduce CPU temperature.
Hy, how diferentiate a nickel plated diy and aluminum? i have a msi gf63 laptop 2021 and i want to replace the termal paste on gpu with liquid metal but the problem is , it's not copper, the dyi its like in your video, im not sure its nickel or aluminum, because the liquid metal doesnt work in aluminum.thanks for answer.
I have a Clevo p870TM1 that I want to do this to, I am in the process of upgrading it with an i9 9900KS I got from Silicon Lottery rated for 5.1Ghz and delidded as per their service, and being in a laptop I want to give it every thermal chance i can so have been quite interested in this video series by you. Please do more on this subject. Please.
9:24 This might just be OCD on my part, but you forgot to clean the two spilled-over drops on the CPU. I always clean any spilled-over liquid metal because I'm afraid it would drip out and short something. But if after 6 months those 2 smol drops are still there, then you're probably safe. Still, imho it would have been better to sand and buff that dried out liquid metal layer to a mirror finish for better thermals. (By like 4 degrees, but still.)
Electroplating on a laptop cooling solution would be very interesting, but I guess a desktop would also be interesting. However in that case it is quite easy to find commercial ones that are already plated, so I don't really see the need.
Hy, how diferentiate a nickel plated dyi and aluminum? i have a msi gf63 laptop 2021 and i want to replace the termal paste on gpu with liquid metal but the problem is , it's not copper, the dyi its like in your video, im not sure its nickel or aluminum, because the liquid metal doesnt work in aluminum.thanks for answer.
@Roman, so would it be safe to conclude that once the LM has dried it cant then 'leak' anywhere. As in its its now a solid but still having the superior thermal conductivity.
@der8auer : instead of putting nail polish or that new product you've showed in the video on the electronic components (resistors ???) surrounding the CPU/GPU die, wouldn't it be easier just to put normal TIM paste around the CPU/GPU die so that the liquid metal compound cannot go off the actual die ?
For the electrical part of the nickel plating, why not use a old PSU and cut the 12v wires off a molex connector. Should give enough current to give decent 12v electroplating
Hy, how diferentiate a nickel plated diy and aluminum? i have a msi gf63 laptop 2021 and i want to replace the termal paste on gpu with liquid metal but the problem is , it's not copper, the dyi its like in your video, im not sure its nickel or aluminum, because the liquid metal doesnt work in aluminum.thanks for answer.
just wondering if you could package the LM in a small vial instead of in the syringe. No matter how many times i use the syringe, the LM ends up going everywhere because of the weird surface tension. For a small vial i could just dunk the cotton bud then apply.
I would love to see the TG cleaner and nailpolish on the website to order. So we can all get a Full Liquid Metal Package from TG! :D You have any TG Case badges for sale too? Nice hologrammy onces for Liquid Metal Inside or something :P
I've sanded down my 9900K die to ~0.5mm height and used LM between the die and Corsair H115i Platinum - 30 degrees lower temperatures and stable overclock now but I've done it after learning about the diffusion barrier and now I'm concerned about the life of CPU. :(
cpu's not what you need to be worried about, it's the effect it has on bare copper of the cold plate it's self. as long as the temps are good you're better off not removing it. if temps start getting worse outside of higher ambient temp effects then you might want to consider re-applying it.
Hy, how diferentiate a nickel plated diy and aluminum? i have a msi gf63 laptop 2021 and i want to replace the termal paste on gpu with liquid metal but the problem is , it's not copper, the dyi its like in your video, im not sure its nickel or aluminum, because the liquid metal doesnt work in aluminum.thanks for answer.
I think i saw a laptop once that used skinny thermal pads around the around the die,when using liquid metal,to keep the liquid metal on the die,so it doesn't "leak" out,does this make sense? Or is it better to just seal everything in nail polish?
The fact that you stated that others had liquid metal dry out with out nickel plating and you had the same results WITH nickel plating doesn't mean the playing it's self is bad
Is drying out, actually a problem if you dont remove the heatsink again? Is it because they are bonded together (the heatsink and spreader), so heat transfer would be fine, and thats what matters, right? Is that why performance numbers didnt change over time?
Ich hätte da mal ne Frage. Auf meinem jetzigen PC ist Windows 10 Pro als Betriebssystem. In der nächsten Zeit baue ich mir einen neuen PC und werde die Festplatte weiter verwenden. Gibt es eine Möglichkeit die Windowsversion auf der Festplatte zu speichern und in dem neuen PC zu reaktivieren, ohne dass ich den Key noch hab? Und wie wäre das möglich?
As Kevin H said, because he took it apart, thus breaking the mating surfaces. If you tried to reassemble this would leave small voids creating hot-spots.
The electric metal plating method demo would be appreciated.
Someone on eBay sells the kits for like $40-$45 bucks. I bought one to redo the nickle plated waterblock on my AORUS 1080ti Waterforce Xtreme WB.
@@scottstamm7022 link?
I would love to see this. I might want to do this on a few pieces of older equipment that I'd want to play with.
@@St0RM33 just look up electro plating kits on eBay.
Hilarious cat. The yawn was good.
The nickle plating is not thick enough.
Kitteh gives no shits, then pimps away like a boss...
It's been 3 months already? Feels like it was yesterday!
same, I thought it was the only 2-3 weeks ago.
Its because we've all been living through Groundhog day for the last 3 months.
YES! Proper electroplating! I'd love to see the results!
8:03 Déjà vu
Unfortunately we removed..
be very careful when removing heat sink when liquid metal is dry as shown in the video i was reckless and forced it and damaged the cpu die
im assuming you ripped a corner off the die ? Did you twist it some to break the seal or just pull straight up ?
@@mcgman8058 forced the heat sink up and ripped the surface ( the thin chromy layer of the cpu) i could see the actual cores :D wasnt funny when it happened. had to replace the motherboard as I don't have the equipment to replace the cpu/gpu package.
@@yeghigmikaelian yikes !
@@mcgman8058 shit happens when you party hard :)))) expensive lesson
you scaring me man
I would be very interested in seeing you plating a heatsink in a desktop pc using electric current. So please do.
When will the conformal coating and LM remover come out?
To prevent fibers from the paper cloth when cleaning i recomend using coffe-filters over regular paper towels.
This is actually really useful, I got LM but I don't dare to use it on my laptops copper cooler. Thanks for the vids Der8auer!
7:48/8:00 So true DB had to say it twice ;D Great vid, the dedication to follow-up and sharing results, either good or bad, is very admirable.
Glitch in matrix.
Love that you made the nail polish a real product
seasonic, the heart of your system...
Lol
Azza the peacemaker of your system
Yes please try the other nikel plating method. Not because I need it but because it's interesting!
Hey Der8auer! I have a proposal to test.
Back in my university days I studied the corrosion of NdFeB magnets in regard of coating. The best results of corrosion resistance were achieved on Ni-Cu-Ni coating. Here a thin copper layer acts as a diffusion blocker. However the best way to make this is to use vapor deposition (PVD coating) instead of electroplating. The electroplated metal can be of worse crystalline quality than pvd-coated.
Hope it helps in your research.
Great content! Thanks for the following up on the DIY Nickel platting project, I was wondering give it a try myself sometime at the end of the year.
Regarding the result, I think it might be caused by several factors:
1. The plating is not thick enough, ion migrations between Cu and Ni was still happening through the thin player.
2. The plating surface is not smooth/ might be filled with micro-pores which allowed the ions to migrate.
The solution to both of the problem could be left the heatsink in the nickel solution for a longer period and then polish the surface.
Here's an interesting thought, since you are platting your own heatsink anyway. Could you use other metals? For example silver or gold. Silver has better heat conductivity than copper and may increase thermal performance.And, Gold is one of the most unreactive metal which may further help with liquid metal 'drying up' (I'm sure you are more familiar with the subject matter than I am)
What I don't know is whether liquid metal (therefore, its components) will react or form alloy with Silver (and for that matter Gold too ) or not. If you have the knowledge or the reference please do share :)
😊😊😊
😊😊😊❤
More tests with nickel plating please! Honestly, I have liquid metal, but I chickened out at the last moment. I have been thinking about electro plating for a while now!
I saw the vacc cleaner and was initially puzzled and then thought "Where is Shiek?" and bam, on screen. Love that cat!
Please continue on laptop, I'm pretty sure a lot of people have thermal issues on theirs. I personally use conductonaut on mine and no nickle plating, not sure what easy solution I'll be able to find. I'm Afraid the cooler materials will suffer corrosion or degrade over time. Also, I just isolated the caps with Kapton tape. Is that fine?
planning to do that with my 5400 latitude as well. Thermals (35W+) are the main culprit of throttling but only if RING/PL4 (25W) didn't kick in.
The ideal way is to create a foam barrier as done by OEMs.
Kapton is thermally insulating, better use 3M thermally conducting tape and an undercoating like nail polish or conformal coating.
I think it might be interesting to test the theory that the plating failure was caused by the aluminium (?) part of the heatsink also being submerged into the plating bath. You could get a couple of copper heatpipes, try plating some of them normally, then take the others and friction-fit them into a piece of aluminium, like a stock Intel heatsink, and try to do the plating with both the Al and the Cu submerged.
Can you also do another 3 month follow up to this. Would be interested to see the results of the reaplication :) anything you do is super cool, so if you are prepared to do any other process- go for it!
You should indeed do the electroplating as well! My ThinkPad W540, of which I nickel plated the heatsink half a year ago, is still having great temperatures. I haven't checked it again tho, it's quite a hassle to open it up and I can't have it unusable for a long time as I need it for work. I used kathodic electroplating and a nickel acetate (which I made by dissolving a nickel coin, connected to the power supply's anode, in vinegar)
Did you follow any specific tutorial?
I was running LM on a custom pure copper (no nickel plating) IHS for my 8700k for over a year after its initial application and got the same results. LM was dried out and infused into the copper on IHS (like a plating). Still, I did a sanity check benchmark before maintenance disassembly (custom liquid cooling loop) and temps were the same as the first day test.
After thorough cleaning I've reapplied LM to the IHS and CPU die and everything is running great 7-8 months later. I only did LM reapplication because I was removing the CPU block.
I've been also running LM in my old and trusty Dell laptop and it's still doing fine after about 3 years now. Other than cleaning the fan I did not removed the cooling block from it and the temps are just like they were after initial application.
You should do electro plating! It's much easier to DIY, much less dangerous and will give a thicker coating. From what I've learned in your two videos about chemical plating, the big upside is when plating weirdly shaped objects, but this is not weirdly shaped at all! Give electro plating a try, I'm sure it will be much better!
Yes more videos on nickel plating or electroplating would be very helpful. I wanted to build up a thicker metal layer on my Wera screwdriver because the bits are too loose in the handle. Unfortunately the shape is like a hex socket. So it is a difficult shape to electroplate. Perhaps I need to think of something else. But wanted a solid metal layer because it it a screwdriver. For the durability, not to wear away so quickly.
The electro formation as that process is called is quiet difficult in " uncontrolled" situations. To get even layers you need a lot of control such as PH control throughout the bath. Also anode and Kathode need really good connections to that, preferrably multiple copper wide mouth clamps. Not sure if they still produce them like that but the first gens of raiser blades from e.g. Braun were produced with the nickel electro formation. Everything need to be cleaned in depth as any oil from hand or equipment will have a negative impact on use. If I remember correctly, they use in the industry steam cleaning and solvent cleaning for that.
There is a guide on Bittech about nickel plating. It seems to have worked out really well for him.
Shiek is like "Oh come on! Can you be quiet!? I'm SLEEPING HERE!"
That shit dissolved the liquid metal very good. For some ppl its a must, Im sure it will be very successful on the right price.
YEY, TG Shield! Great product! =)
About LM and copper. I got "idea" to combine thin layer of graphite sheet (with adhesive layer) and LM. Graphite simply stick to copper heatsink and act as protective layer between copper and LM, but still transfer heat. Problem is, i didn't ask yet Panasonic about how LM work together with graphite. :) But i saw patents, that LM was added in CNT (carbon nano tubes).
Hope Shiek gets better really soon.
I'd definitely like to see more nickel plating content.
0:27 - Shiek's expression says
"I TOLD him this wouldn't work!"
try the nickleplating with current. just do IT
Ever thought of trying 24k Gold foil as TIM??? Very soft, thin, high conductivity.
No views, 3 likes and while there is no comment, it shows 1 Comment.
Gotta love UA-cam.I do find these videos engaging. This answers the "I wonder what if....." questions.
Sheik's a beautiful cat. Only 2 of our 7 cats like's to get on the desk when I'm at the computer (one is with me right now!)
Gotta love when your true cravings comes out :)
Sheik the cat is the best and is main reason I watch your videos! Please do the electroplating video.
Yeah would be cool to see more methods of plating, pls do make those videos.
Unfortunately my bottle of conformal coating isn't going to run out anytime soon because despite the meme, red would make it easier to determine if I have applied it properly vs clear.
Oh cat hair and scratch marks is common with cat owners, I have 3 cats, like I have to clean my house every day, and lost count on how many scars in the arms and legs I have
You should totally do a video about electroplating. At least I would enjoy it.
The liquid you used to remove the liqiud metal worked awesome 👌 👏 ill bd getting some for maintanence times on my pcs $$$$
I found a liquid metal called "Silver king" after 3 months the liquid metal on a bare copper cooler block was still liquid and not dry at all. Prior to this i used coollabs liquid ultra on a different cooler and that dried/plated to the block. Im not sure if theres somthing in the silver king that stops fusing
Well done, you are using a good girl, continue the same way!
I guess you have two upcoming videos. 1) How is the plating in the laptop after 6 more months 2) Electroplating a CPU coldplate AND lapped IHS.
I use automotive silicone to protect the components when i apply liquid metal, i did my laptop 18 months ago, havnt check it but temps are still very good
Gasket maker RTV silicone? The one i have is acetoxy formulation, obvious by the vinegar smell while it sets; it's not suitable for electronics, can cause corrosion.
electro plating would be very interesting, to see if it is any better. If it is then I would look to see what professional nickel plating was available local to myself
Marry's white hair looks dope
yes test it with current its the best way and the only way you shold plat any metal!
I'm here for the cat. German practicality and attention for the public shall suggest you lend me the cat , to be petted while I watch your videos with consequent increased appreciation. Jokes aside would you try chrome plating if that's compatible with high grade thermal compounds ?
Yeah, try the electroplating.
I'm thinking the chemical layer just didn't manage to cover the surface properly. (ie, leaving pores for the metal to suffuse through)
Interesting. I installed Conductonaut on my MSI GT72 about 2 years ago. I've also applied it direct die on a 9900k with an EK copper block. No performance degradation on either system, but now I'm curious what they look like.
I would love to see you do nickel electroplating.
I already tried electroplating nickel to heatsink baseplates and they still get stained from liquid metal. It didn't matter if it was just a thin 10um nickel layer or a thick 100um layer that took hours to plate, liquid metal will still stain it anyway.
What did you learn from it? Did it make any difference in performance or all the hassle is unneeded?
@@ItaloLoureiro Not worth bothering as results did not come close to matching theory. The plating didn't affect performance compared to bare copper. Only thing it's good for is preventing copper oxidation but a can of Brasso will fix that for an order of magnitude lower cost, time, and health risk (nickel is a skin sensitiser).
Maybe use a gpu with a copper block for the Electro-plating...
Applied Conductonaut on the bare copper Heatkiller IV waterblock with my old 1080 Ti and after about 2 years, the temperature went up by 10-15 degrees.
So yeah buy a Nickel Plated waterblock is most ideal.
For Laptop just stick to thermal paste and use ThrottleStop to reduce CPU temperature.
Hy, how diferentiate a nickel plated diy and aluminum? i have a msi gf63 laptop 2021 and i want to replace the termal paste on gpu with liquid metal but the problem is , it's not copper, the dyi its like in your video, im not sure its nickel or aluminum, because the liquid metal doesnt work in aluminum.thanks for answer.
I have a Clevo p870TM1 that I want to do this to, I am in the process of upgrading it with an i9 9900KS I got from Silicon Lottery rated for 5.1Ghz and delidded as per their service, and being in a laptop I want to give it every thermal chance i can so have been quite interested in this video series by you. Please do more on this subject. Please.
9:24
This might just be OCD on my part, but you forgot to clean the two spilled-over drops on the CPU. I always clean any spilled-over liquid metal because I'm afraid it would drip out and short something. But if after 6 months those 2 smol drops are still there, then you're probably safe.
Still, imho it would have been better to sand and buff that dried out liquid metal layer to a mirror finish for better thermals. (By like 4 degrees, but still.)
Electroplating on a laptop cooling solution would be very interesting, but I guess a desktop would also be interesting. However in that case it is quite easy to find commercial ones that are already plated, so I don't really see the need.
Thermal Grizzly hand nail protector available in the nearest cosmetic department!
Nice :)
Could works UV solder mask for isolation area... maybe.
I wonder if you can use Kapton Tape as a fingernail coating since you can use fingernail polish as a insulator coating
Please do try the electro-plating. I’ve been debating which would produce the best results for a couple of ideas I have that I’d like to try.
Hy, how diferentiate a nickel plated dyi and aluminum? i have a msi gf63 laptop 2021 and i want to replace the termal paste on gpu with liquid metal but the problem is , it's not copper, the dyi its like in your video, im not sure its nickel or aluminum, because the liquid metal doesnt work in aluminum.thanks for answer.
@Roman, so would it be safe to conclude that once the LM has dried it cant then 'leak' anywhere. As in its its now a solid but still having the superior thermal conductivity.
I always leave it to professionals to add all our nail polish applications.
@der8auer : instead of putting nail polish or that new product you've showed in the video on the electronic components (resistors ???) surrounding the CPU/GPU die, wouldn't it be easier just to put normal TIM paste around the CPU/GPU die so that the liquid metal compound cannot go off the actual die ?
I've bought the metal liquid from Thermal Grizzly. Now I'm really to learn why!
more tests please
electro platings the only way lower the voltage the better ie)
7:48 A glitch in the Matrix.
Shiek thought you got the cheek to mention about her, being on the video to much. 😂
For the electrical part of the nickel plating, why not use a old PSU and cut the 12v wires off a molex connector. Should give enough current to give decent 12v electroplating
Hy, how diferentiate a nickel plated diy and aluminum? i have a msi gf63 laptop 2021 and i want to replace the termal paste on gpu with liquid metal but the problem is , it's not copper, the dyi its like in your video, im not sure its nickel or aluminum, because the liquid metal doesnt work in aluminum.thanks for answer.
Who's that guy in the background? He kept droning on and on while I was trying to admire the majestic creature.
Would love to see the electro nickel plating
just wondering if you could package the LM in a small vial instead of in the syringe.
No matter how many times i use the syringe, the LM ends up going everywhere because of the weird surface tension.
For a small vial i could just dunk the cotton bud then apply.
Electroplating = yes.
Any plans for plasma coating?
How does this man upload in german and english? Does he do it separately if so that sounds like a crazy lotta work its amazing
Der8auer, you dont have 10th Gen Overclocking video. Ik they are all similar but still, You owe us one ;)
electro plate laptop heatsink with nickel....i was thinking of doing this but you're about to do (maybe) that so waiting for the video
I wish they’d make the laptop just a little bit thicker and put a better thermal solution in there so we could just use normal paste
Yes test it.
I would love to see the TG cleaner and nailpolish on the website to order. So we can all get a Full Liquid Metal Package from TG! :D You have any TG Case badges for sale too? Nice hologrammy onces for Liquid Metal Inside or something :P
I've sanded down my 9900K die to ~0.5mm height and used LM between the die and Corsair H115i Platinum - 30 degrees lower temperatures and stable overclock now but I've done it after learning about the diffusion barrier and now I'm concerned about the life of CPU. :(
cpu's not what you need to be worried about, it's the effect it has on bare copper of the cold plate it's self. as long as the temps are good you're better off not removing it. if temps start getting worse outside of higher ambient temp effects then you might want to consider re-applying it.
Hy, how diferentiate a nickel plated diy and aluminum? i have a msi gf63 laptop 2021 and i want to replace the termal paste on gpu with liquid metal but the problem is , it's not copper, the dyi its like in your video, im not sure its nickel or aluminum, because the liquid metal doesnt work in aluminum.thanks for answer.
I think i saw a laptop once that used skinny thermal pads around the around the die,when using liquid metal,to keep the liquid metal on the die,so it doesn't "leak" out,does this make sense? Or is it better to just seal everything in nail polish?
What about thickening the copper heatpipes? I think it would benefit thermals.
I would like to see how you do nickel plating.
The fact that you stated that others had liquid metal dry out with out nickel plating and you had the same results WITH nickel plating doesn't mean the playing it's self is bad
0:19
Roman: 13 using this whatever it's called in english
Me: Mate in Scotland, we just call this shite.
Hi can u test deepcool anti leak liquide coller?
yes test it
What are those light panels on your wall???
Is drying out, actually a problem if you dont remove the heatsink again?
Is it because they are bonded together (the heatsink and spreader), so heat transfer would be fine, and thats what matters, right?
Is that why performance numbers didnt change over time?
Ever tried heat pipe to external air cooler?
Or
Graphene pipe
Ich hätte da mal ne Frage. Auf meinem jetzigen PC ist Windows 10 Pro als Betriebssystem. In der nächsten Zeit baue ich mir einen neuen PC und werde die Festplatte weiter verwenden. Gibt es eine Möglichkeit die Windowsversion auf der Festplatte zu speichern und in dem neuen PC zu reaktivieren, ohne dass ich den Key noch hab? Und wie wäre das möglich?
So, what is the point of re-applying the liquid metal if everything is working fine?
because he took it apart
As Kevin H said, because he took it apart, thus breaking the mating surfaces. If you tried to reassemble this would leave small voids creating hot-spots.
@6:31 what music track is that ? Catchy!! And great video!!!
Roman, any news on 10900K direct die?