2014 Sierra Drivers Side Temp Door Actuator - Temp Actuator Short Cut! Blend Door Actuator Replace
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- Опубліковано 7 сер 2024
- Im going to show you how to replace the drivers side temp actuator on a 2014-2019 Silverado and Sierra. This may also work on Tahoe, Suburban and Yukons. Below is a link to the actuator. The part is the same regardless of being for driver or passenger.
Merch: www.teespring.com/stores/dmon...
Parts:
GM Actuator: amzn.to/3nPpEYE
Tools:
Socket Set: amzn.to/34wP588
Jack and Stands: amzn.to/34Ke5t0
Ramps: amzn.to/2SB1QJz
Serpentine Belt Tool: amzn.to/3dbspyd
Ratchet Wrenches: amzn.to/3jHtdxu
Drain Pan: amzn.to/3iKhqwQ
Funnel Set: amzn.to/33MHpQl
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Notice:
Due to factors beyond the control of DMoney Garage, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. DMoney Garage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. DMoney Garage recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of DMoney Garage, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of any tools, equipment, or information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not DMoney Garage.
Credits:
Music: www.bensound.com
Intro & Outro: www.fiverr.com
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Thanks! Saved me $1200. Here’s some tips after just installing it:
1. You’ll need a super small screwdriver or a thin electric ratchet. I bought a stubby screwdriver but it was still too big! Make sure yours is 4” or less. Probably 3” is best.
2. Yes, as everyone noted, the T screws on the actuator are T20, not T15. Even though the glove compartment uses T15’s.
3. You don’t actually need to unplug the second computer module (the small one). You can just unclip the retaining clip and kind of shove the computer out of the way, even while it’s still plugged in.
4. Unplugging the actuator sucks, but it’s easy to plug back in. It has a clip you need to pinch from the bottom (like an Ethernet cable), and it’s awkward to try and unclip with one hand. Since you can’t get two hands in there to pull apart the plug, I just waited until after I unscrewed the two actuator screws, and that allows you to pick up the whole actuator and get it closer to you so you can get a better angle on it.
5. Unscrew the farthest actuator screw first so you know you can get it off. The closer one is easy compared to the one in the back that you can’t even see.
I didn’t even need to recalibrate the system, but that might improve something. Finally blows cold out my driver side!
I’m an absolute monkey and it only took me an hour and a half in total, maybe even less.
Great video, couldn’t have done it otherwise!
Big thanks, the job was hell for my arm but I got it done on my ‘14 Silverado. My wrist area is bruised up but well worth the big money the dealership would charge. It’s videos like this that give you the confidence to do the DIYs and save yourself hundreds. It’s nice to have cold air on my drivers side now. 🥶
Do you need the calibration machine, or can you just change the actuator and turn the AC on to see if it worked?
@@gerald2466 you don’t have to have a bidirectional scan tool. When the vehicle is off you can pull the 2 HVAC fuses on the drivers side fuse panel. I can’t remember which numbers they are but it’s on the panel door. One’s a 15 amp and the other is a 10 amp. Leave them out for at least 15 seconds, and then replace them. Now start your vehicle, and don’t touch anything. Leave it in park and don’t touch the a/c controls, it can take up to 40 seconds. You should be able to hear it running the calibration, opening and closing the blend doors.
My 2014 Sierra just started this. Like everyone else, I thought it was other issues. I ordered my actuator today and will use your tutorial to complete mine. Thanks for posting this
Just followed this video to change mine. $35 fix was great!
My arm is scratched up, but I’m grateful for this video. Saved myself $1300. 🤲🏿
Thanks for posting. Just followed your instructions, very smooth. Taking out the HMI and other controller was key to getting in there. Took me 45 min.
Just got done with this DIY project. Your instructions couldn't have been better. Worked right away without having to recalibrate the actuators. Thanks for the video
Mine did too!
Saved me lots of money.. It's definilely not an easy job reaching the back screw. Arm is sore after. Thank you for the video
Thank you for creating this video. It was very helpful in repairing my truck.
This is the kind of content I am here for! Good video. Saved me a lot of work
Thanks a lot for this how-to!! I got I’d done in no time at all and no issues saved me 1200$ 🙏🏼 thanks again
Thanks for the vid. It saved my butt in the Texas summer.
My 2014 Silverado just started this too. Time to get to work.
Update: 3 days later. Mileage at the time of this issue 120,000
Problem: Thermostat was set to low on both sides of the truck. The drivers side seemed to blow a steady 75 degrees and the passengers side got ice cold.
The part came in from amazon as described for my 2014 Silverado. I ordered the part listed in this video from amazon for about $30.
Great video by the way!
A few things I want to add. When its time to remove the 2-T screws from the actuator mine were actually a T-20 rather than T-15. The last thing you want to do is strip those screws. You'll also need a small ratchet to get the job done and extenders wont help you here. Be sure not to drop the actuators screws you may have hell finding them. When you reinstall the module be sure to install it back in bracket the correct way. The first module you remove has different plugs so it will be obvious which plug goes where. On the second module it has a small bracket the flips up and out of the way and when you disconnect the module it says which color plug plugs in where and they are color coded. Yes you will get a little twisted trying to access the actuator but its well worth the savings. This video saved me $900 and took me 1.5 hours because I checked and double checked every move. My ac is now blowing ice cold on the driver's side now. Hope this helps. Again, great video.
Did you recalibrate afterwards? I don’t have a code reader
Did you have the fancy snap on tool or no need for it
@@GansquaddGaming No.
@@Thefishingplumber No fancy tool needed. Just a small ratchet.
@@andrewfernandez7652 I got the job done! My ac blows cold 🥶 🧊 very happy with my truck now 🙂 I have a long slender hand so it wasn’t a issue at all just followed the instructions on a few videos
Thank you sir! Video was a great help and it fixed the problem.
You are the BomB! Just replaced mine following your video. 90 minute including a run to the auto parts store to get a new in cabin air filter! 2015 Silverado 1500 crew cab. Folks it is just as he says! I have very cold air conditioning again!
This helped a lot! Thank you.
15 Sierra! Awesome job! Thanks!
You just saved me a ton of 💰. Thank you sir!
Another successful fix thank you sir. I’m ecstatic!
Just did this with my 14 chevy silverado. Instructions were clear and saved me a fortune. One difference with my truck was that the screws were t20 not t15
thanks for the video. This job is very mental. There is that moment when you are afraid you are going to drop your torx socket, then remove the further screw with the tips of your fingers - "don't drop it, don't drop it!" Then that moment you feel like your arm could almost get stuck and you start to freak out..... all in all, it took me about 45 minutes. Don't want to do it again...
Thanks for the tutorial. Appreciate it man.
Man so appreciate the video man! Was able to get it without taking that 2nd module out, I agree that job sucked! Thanks for the great instructions
You saved me a huge headache and a good amount of time. My actuator was functioning properly. I verified it was opening and closing by watching it while changing the temp knob from cold to hot and back to cold again. I then removed the actuator and there gear that the actuator turns. This was a little tricky had to be delicate since the door "arm" that the gear turns has to pop up slightly in order to remove it. I then used the door "arm" to physically open and close the door listening for obstructions. I'm not sure if something was in there or what but after flapping it a few times closed it sounded like it was making a good seal (obviously you can't see anything but you can listen for it). I then reattached the gear in the same position I removed it and reinstalled the actuator. The back screw fell and and who knows where it went. I reinstalled just the outer screw and seems like it'll hold at least for a while I hope. Anyway, blowing super nice and cold on my driver side again. I'm happy. Thanks again!
How come no check the compressor charge or pressure?
Just installed mine works flawless saved me 1800$
About to have to do this to my 14 Silverado, a little nerve wracking but I’m going to give it a shot
Thank you brother, did you help me a lot?
Thank you so much for the information. Its going help me do the same thing . God bless
Wow !! I can’t believe this. This actually worked. This is sort of high risk. I was very nervous to drop a screw so have to have a very steady hand. I also ordered a small snubbed ratchet off of Amazon to move around in there easier. The dealership quoted me $1400 to remove the dash and replace this. Thank you for making this video. Saved me from throwing away my money!
Also I did this on my ‘14 Silverado
Thank you!!!
@@DMoneyGarage hello brother will the info be the same on a 2013gmc 2500hd? Thanks
A year late and I’m struggling to get the screws undone what ratchet did you order off Amazon??
Awesome; thanks men!!!
Thanks for the vid, made the swap super simple and done with in 30 minutes. I did cheat and got away without a reprogram.
How did to get away without reprogramming it ?
@@michaelhodge4885 Installed the part and it functioned as is should.
The only thing I didn't have was the electric ratchet what a pain in the butt but I got it done thanks for the tip Save the lot of money and time and I got the same wound on my arm too from the bracket
Brother! Thank you! Man it was not a fun job! Had to make a thumb ratchet with tape and rubber band for that back screw! My forearm looks just like yours!
Thanks for the video. Helped a lot. Arm might be bruised but can’t beat the ac being cold again
I need to do this on my 14 Sierra. Hard to believe its a problem already. Truck has less than 50k miles. Thanks for the shortcut. Local dealer wanted $1100.00 to do mine. Said whole dash had to come out.
Mines told me the same thing. They are just rip offs
Thanks for the video. It’s very interesting. My 2014 doesn’t have the center console like yours. Is that actuator the same as the one on the bottom. I’ve never seen one on top.
I found that taking the little top off, after you moved that second module out. Will allow big boys like myself to get on in 'er
Hey thanks for this helpful video, I had my 2014 GMC Sierra at the dealer and they wanted over 900 dollars for the labor, I said no don't do it, I watched this video and did it myself and it seems to work just fine, yes my arm is red now but that's ok,
Nice!
So if I replace this part like you did do I have to take my truck somewhere that has a scanner to reprogram it ?
I replaced my battery and now my A/C won't blow cold. It's stuck on SYNC and I've pulled the HVAC fuse to do an a/c reset, but no change. Thinking both blend actuators are toast.
Will this work without a recalibration or do you run a high risk of the actuator stripping gears without one?
My 2014 drivers stays 10° warmer than the passenger side on the lowest setting but the feet will blow cold. Would this actuator still be the fix or a blend door actuator be needed?
is this the same actuator for the passenger side? or does the pass side have its own actuator? passenger side in my 14 sierra wont blow heat
would a 2016 chevrolet suburban ltz have the driver side actuator as the location of yours
Thanks for this video. My 2018 Silverado has a different problem. Cold and hot air blow out only from the dashboard. No matter which button I press on position control. Would that be a defective actuator?
Very possible. Haven’t seen a lot of door or case issues. More than likely the actuator
Any recommendations on code readers that don’t cost $1800?
Changed mine out. Now no cold blowing on either side. Weird. Going to try the calibration with a friends snap on…
Did mine last week,got the same scrathes to prove it. Now I got to replace the dam thing again. stop working. I'm not healed from the soreness of the task. Dam!
how did you get the acuator unplugged?
I just replaced my compressor as the previous one had seized about 8 months ago. I also replaced the expansion valve and the desiccant pack (drier) inside the condenser. I vacuumed and recharged the system, both low and high side pressures look good. Water drips from the evap core, and hose going into the evap core is generously frosty. However, the air inside the truck is more like luke warm, but is colder when the AC is on vs off (both cases are when temp is on 'LOW'). I'm thinking it could be this actuator, maybe a 'bland' actuator? Was wondering your thoughts? Thank you!
Could be the actuator. Of one is stuck full hot the other side won’t get cold. Hot fighting cold. Definitely a possibility.
Mine started being cold on passenger and hot on drivers and then hot on both. Gonna try this. Don’t got that fancy tool so not sure what the calibration you mention is
Did this fix your problem
@Dmoney, I have a 2014 but without dual climate. Heat comes from vents when on lowest setting. Wondering if there is a different actuator in a different place or maybe same actuator in a different place.
Same problem i have.
Looks like this is a good way of fixing this issue. Could you remove the center radio an get to it easier? It seems it's behind the radio.
thanks
The dash support goes behind the radio. No access.
@@DMoneyGarage thanks for that info.
same question I was about to ask!
Did anyone do this without a computer? Did it all still work without recalibration?
Great info. What about a 2018 yukon XL? Driver and passenger side blowing warm air while the rear AC is blowing cold. Is there only the one actuator for the front? Thoughts on a fix. Thanks
There are 2 actuators for the front. Not to say they both can’t be bad. I’ve seen them where the passenger side will fail and they don’t notice until the drivers fails. If the rear is cold then definitely sounds like an actuator or electrical fault of some sort.
@@DMoneyGarage Thanks for the response. Pulled the negative on the battery and they recalibrated themselves I guess. 👍
Going to give this a try. Can someone tell me if the part# is different for a 2014 GMC Seirra?
Same. The truck in the video was my old truck which was a 2014.
Thanks for the video. Yesterday my 14 Silverado ac didn't feel cold. The driverside is cooler than the passnger side by about 10 to 15 degrees. Does this mean I need to replace the passenger side actuator? If so, where is it located?
Passenger side is located on the bottom of the hvac case toward the center console
@@DMoneyGarage Thanks. I hope that will make it a little easier to get to.
@@johnwilson4944 definitely easier than the drivers
Driver’s side blows warm and passenger side blows cold. Could this part be the issue?
Did your ac compressor engage?I have a 2015 3500 and ac stop working cold,have no cool air and my compressor ain’t engaging.
Yes. If the compressor isn’t engaging I would make sure it’s charged. 2014-2019 trucks had issues with the ac condensers leaking(in front of radiator). That’s where I would start.
If I don’t have a computer like yours to calibrate can I just install it and hook everyone back up and test it that way ?
You can but it may not be right till you have the actuators calibrated. Any repair facility should be able to do the calibration for you.
Hey@Dmoney after replacing the battery the passenger side vent not blowing cold air. What u think cause it.
No engine light on.
2 options. Either bad timing and the passenger actuator gave up the ghost or you could try disconnecting the battery for 15mins. This is what we call a global reset. It forces all modules to lose there short term memory. Sometimes this will cause them to go back to a preprogrammed state and can sometimes fix small issues. Try that 1st and if the concern is still present then I’d have to lean towards a faulty actuator(given I can’t actually diagnose the fault). Hopefully this helps👍
Driver side hot passenger side cool not cold would this resolve it ? Compressor comes on and freon level is good
Refrigerant can be low and the compressor can still come on. You could have a leak and a bad drivers temp actuator. These trucks are known for the condensers to leak.
You said all vents but on mine it is only the two driver side vents. The passenger ones are ice cold. Is this how yours was?
Yes. Passenger side was cold and drivers side was warm/cool.
Do you know if the one you ordered on Amazon would work for my 2014 Silverado 1500 LTZ 5.3L? What programmer were you using ? Looks nice. Thanks in advance.
Yes and I use a snap on modis ultra.
Yes plus numerous others I've fixed.
When it does this...blows ambient air out of all the vents...what then?
I wish the modus wasn’t so cleans exensive
I think my Sierra is doing the same thing, but both sides are warm. Is there a different actuator that would control both sides, or overall air?
More than likely your ac system actually has a leak. If I had to guess the ac condenser is probably leaking. These trucks are notorious for that.
if you don't have dual climate, you only have one actuator in the same location he showed
All I did was pop my glove boxes out, (6 T15 screws, and make sure they're shut ehen you pop em out) and located the actuator. I rotated my driver side temperature control knob all the way too hot, and then all the way to cool. As youre doing that you can see how far it is rotating in there. I sprayed a shistanki load of WD-40 on it and pushed on it a little bit a couple times with a small glathead screwdriver kinda easy the way that it's supposed to go to be colder, which you will see when you're rotating the knob to the left to the lo setting. As you're looking at it the actuator rotates to the right when your turning the knob left to cold, and it rotates to the left as you're turning it too hot or heat. I did that about 10 times and watch that move back and forth until it wemt all the way. While I was in there I clean my air filter out which was actually pretty new but surprisingly more dirty than I thought it would be. My AC blows ice cold again and I could tell that the little gear on the actuator went way further than what it was on its own without being lubricated. Just saved $43, and the time of taking those dumb-ass module boxes out! Good video you made to replace it though if it actually needs done! Thanks man!
so you lubricated the gear vs. replacing the actuator? that's pretty smart and cheap diagnoses. See if its fixable first before spending money!
@@lonestarangler8407
Yep that's what worked for me! Lubricated it and manipulated a little with a flathead screwdriver. Wish I would have videod it, but it was 108° outside that day when I was messing with it. It still is blowing ice cold for me! Both sides got better and work great now!
Very helpful video. I took my turn replacing the actuator last weekend and thought I’d add a couple of things from my experience.
The only challenge is the back screw on the actuator, and it is a challenge. I’m a bigger guy, about 6’4” 250 lbs with hands and arms to match, so getting to that screw was a bear. I could reach it but didn’t have much room to maneuver.
The biggest problem is being able to see the screw to see what you are doing. When removing the actuator I took out the front screw first, which is easy, and then used needle nosed pliers to disconnect the plug, also easy. Once those were loose I turned the actuator to the right and…voila I could see the back screw. I was able to put a ratchet on it (it is T20 and not T15 as others have mentioned) but after a few turns there wasn’t enough resistance for the ratchet to reset, so I ended up taking off the T20 bit from the ratchet and finished unthreading the screw by hand using the bit.
The biggest problem I had was then getting that screw back in after replacing the actuator. I couldn’t really reverse what I did before by turning the actuator to the right to be able to see the back screw, because you have to reconnect the plug while the actuator is loose to have room to do it, and then the plug and wire are in your way. You also pretty much have to line up both screw holes at once to get them both to fit and the screws to drop in the holes….you can’t line them up separately.
That means you are flying blind on getting that back screw in and must work by feel in a very tight area that is beating the crap out of your arm. I was able to get the back screw in the hole, but I just couldn’t get the T20 bit on it either with a ratchet or by hand. So, I improvised…I went to the hardware store and found a matching thumb screw that I was able to then thread in by hand.
That did the trick, and now I’ve got cold air on both sides again, without any reprogramming. I had a dealer quote of $1400 to fix it and it took maybe 90 minutes which included the trip to the hardware store. The actuator was about $35 OEM on Amazon. It did beat up my arm as the video shows but that’s a battle wound.
I wouldn’t have known where to start without the video. Thank you!
PS-another thing I considered was finding a wing nut that the back screw would sit in and gluing the screw to the nut, to be able to turn the screw by hand. But I didn’t want to leave my truck torn apart waiting for the glue to dry, so I tried the hardware store and was able to find a matching thumb screw which I could also turn by hand. Worked perfectly. Good luck to anyone giving this a go!
I dont have a fancy scan tool. Do you have to recalibrate it?
To get it to work correctly they actuators need calibrated. It may work without but not 100% right.
Hi, I just had to repeat this after less than one year! Really stinks that a $30 part that is so hard to change can't last the vehicle life. Anyone else had to do this more than once?? BTW...great video, saved me a ton of headaches and/or money in a shop! If you have large or really long arms, you probably will struggle changing this part through the glovebox.
I actually have the same problem but with the passenger side. cant get heat, I can get cold to luke warm but not hot. drivers side is fine. where is the passenger side door actuator located? cant find any videos on it
The other actuator is located on the passenger side by the center console on the bottom of the hvac case. Super easy to replace.
Driver side cool & passenger side cold… did it cause any clicking noise when you turned on the A/C?
Nope. Never have clicking.
I get a clicking noise for some reason… any chance I may only need to recalibrate it?.. I recently changed the battery to my 2014 high country, perhaps that caused it?
Battery wouldn't cause it. Actuators can click. The internal gears are plastic and can strip. I've never encountered that on these trucks but it's not impossible. If you can get to the actuator and put a finger on it, you could feel if its the one clicking.
Wish I knew which one to replace my battery died. Replaced with new battery and now my ac blows cold on driver side and warm on passenger side. I’ve already paid to fix ac twice in my truck already the last 2 years for ac compressor and hoses each time cost me 1100-1300. If it wasn’t for my son I wouldn’t care and would just roll down the windows. I don’t mind doing the work myself to replace but I’ve been told there’s like 4 of them for my 2014 sierra and I don’t want to spend money on something that’s fine when only 1 could be bad
My 2014 GMC just started doing this about 3 weeks ago. I had no idea what the problem was. I took it to 3 local ac auto shops. 1st shop told me that I had to replace the ac lines because it was leaking freon. He didn't even connect the ac charging hose gauges to my truck. Wonder how he came up with that conclusion! They were going to charge me $325.00 to do so. 2nd shop checks out my truck, this shop does connect the charging hose gauges and tells me there is no leak. So, I ask what the problem would be? He states, I have to replace the condenser and the ac lines because somewhere within the system it had a blockage. They wanted to charge me $500.00 to do so. By this time, I didn't know what the hell I was going to do. I had a feeling these guys were out to rip me off. So, what do I do? I take it to a 3rd shop they connect the ac charging hoses to my truck. Guys says freon level is ok and continues to check my truck. After checking everything over, he states that I need to replace my ac compressor. He wanted to charge me $400.00 to do so. All three ac shops gave me different results. All ac auto shop knew about the main problem, that the ac is blowing hot air on driver side and cold on passenger side. So, I wait to see what I will be doing to fix my truck. I just happen to come across this video. DMoney, thank you for making this video. I'm going to order the part and try to install it myself. Once again, thank you for your video and I'm a subscriber now to your channel. Keep up the good work!
Are the torx screws that hold this in place regular or security? I have a bunch of 1/4" drive regular but was wondering if I needed to get the security ones for this.
Regular
@@DMoneyGarage Sweet. Thanks for the info. Will be replacing this tomorrow. Thanks for the concise and helpful video!
@@DMoneyGarage Got it changed out this past Saturday. Took me a total of about 2 hours, mainly because I was being super careful with all of the connectors and being sure not do drop that back screw. The only thing I need to do is the recalibration process. Since I do not have a scanner like yours (just a simple ODBII scanner), is there a way to manually do the process that will achieve the same results? Even without the recalibration, it is much, much better now.
You video was perfect!
Not that I’m aware of but any shop should be able to perform the function for a small fee. They could literally do it in the parking lot. Only takes a few mins.
@@DMoneyGarage I know you use the Snap-On scanner, but it there a more reasonable option that would accomplish the same thing? I'm always down to add a valuable tool to the tool box.
Do you disconnect the battery ? And how calibrated without that computer you have ?
I don’t disconnect the battery and never had any issues. Calibration has to be done with a scan tool. Most repair facilities should be able to do it quickly for you.
@@DMoneyGarage thanks.Im thinking doing by myself I have the same problem in my 14 Sierra driver side blows warm air and passenger side cold air
Is it the same setup for a 14 silverado just got quoted $2000 to fix mine seems way to high
Yup. Sure is.
Yup. Sure is.
Thanks man gonna try it myself your way
It's tight but alot better than the alternative. Lol
How in the world were you able to reach to press the tab and release the connection?
I just used a small long screwdriver to release the tab and work it out.
@@DMoneyGarage Yes, that’s what I did too. Worked out perfect and now we are blowing good, cold air. Thanks!
2014 Silverado LT. Try this. Crank up truck. Turn off a/c. Make sure it's in air recirculation mode. Turn fan on full speed. Put temperature to max hot. Let it run for 10 minutes. Turn off truck. Remove fuse panel on passenger side. Remove fuse #35, 25 amp. for 1 minute 15 seconds. Replace fuse.. Crank up motor and turn a/c on and temp to coldest setting.. Why this worked on my truck, I don't know. But what I do know is that before I did this the air temp was reading 74° Fahrenheit on the driver's and now it's reading 53 °. Hope this works for someone else.
30minutes ago it was all cold...seems to do it when its 90* or better
Can you calibrate the actuators without the $8k computer? I cant find anything on this generation truck.
Yes, disconnect the battery for 10 sec or remove hvac fuse. It will relearn home positions upon key on
Will this part work on a 2015 6.6 Duramax? 2500hd
Yes. Those have the same actuators as the 1500s. I've replaced a few.
@@DMoneyGarage thank you sir! I looked on GM parts direct and it had a different part number then the one on Amazon. Only reason I went on there was that Amazon said part figment may not be compatible
No problem at all. I stock the one in the video since I do them quite often but definitely am a fan of verifying fitment via the vin. I always verify parts before installing them. Especially once that are a pain to change. Lol
Would this cause my hvac system to work fine but will not work on defrost? I have a 2015.5 duramax ltz. Do you happen to have a part number?
No. Your concern is either the mode door actuator or something in the hvac box/linkage for the mode doors being broken.
Did you know the actuator part number?
The link in the description is for the gm one. I don't remember the number off the top of my head but if you click the link it'll show you the part.
What is the difference between the blend door actuator and the temp actuator? My dealership is saying my Drivers Temp actuator needs to be replaced, but I can only find information on the blend door actuator.
Same thing.
@@DMoneyGarage Thank you! Dealership wants $2100 to replace since they are going with the remove dash option. I have a 2015 Yukon but the process appears the same via other videos. Part is like $35, and I am a mechanic by trade (albeit aviation). The only videos I find are replacing the same actuator you just did in your video, not some other temp actuator thing. All I can can find is a mode actuator.
I just closed my driver side vents. I started back working on its on
Ok what if we can’t calibrate it tho?
Drive to a shop and pay a small fee and have them do it. It may be close without it but could eventually ruin the new actuator
Ok Thankyou
5:48 "that's the actuator itself" big old flash light, shining the whole screen. A laser pointer would be better. Overall, this is a good high-level overview of the complexity, but not the best step by step instruction.
Thanks for the feedback. A laser pointer would be a good investment.
If anyone is watching this and doesn’t know my 14 Silverado had a recall on the condenser and the dealership fixed that for me but now the actuator is acting up 2 years later
That’s two separate issues not related to each other.
Spent 7 hours fighting that back screw out and back in ... dash is coming off next time. My arm does not fit
Why is the drivers side on the passenger side I would think it would be the one on the drivers side
I didn’t engineer it🤷😂
I understand I replace the one in the drivers side thinking it was the one but it’s still hot so wondering if it’s the same part they look like the same but want to know for sure
Yes. The actuators are the same part so you should be good to use the old one on the passenger side.
@@DMoneyGarage awesome thanks man I appreciate your help
Have another question do I need to unhook the battery before unhooking the two modules and will the truck still start and drive if I don’t get the modules back in before I have to go to work
Anyone in Jax able to help me with this? I’ll pay ya 😂
I’ll give you $400 cash if you will drive to south Alabama and fix mine.
$500?
But we didn’t see what you used to undo those two screws nor did we hear how much fussing and cussing was said.
Do you HAVE to recalibrate when replacing? Or is it just recommended? I have this exact problem and can do the work myself, just don't have a tech tool
It has to be done. Until it's done the module doesn't know the exact position of the actuator in relationship to the door. Any repair shop should be able to do the calibration for under $100.
@@DMoneyGarage Thank you
@@DMoneyGarage just so I'm clear, I can do the replace/install and drive up to a local shop for the calibration? it's not going to throw anything off for the short time that I'm driving it to the shop? thanks for the video!!!
Nope. It'll be fine. I've had customers come to me to do the calibration after they replaced an actuator and there has never been an issue.
@@DMoneyGarage Do you happen to know if you can get to it by removing the radio? Seem like it should be right there