Thank you so much. I converted a ford 460; in a bale wagon, from a mechanical fuel pump to an in-line pusher pump with fuel regulator. When I would attempt to start it I had fuel running out the top breather tower and in the boosters. I cleaned the breather holes and sure enough my o ring on needle seat was flat and brittle when removed. I put the new R-03 o ring on as following your directive adjusted it to where it sat just below the adjusting nut tightened it down, prayed to the Holley carb god, it started right up and IDLED. Went to the field to pickup bales it not only had good power but idled and ran so much cooler, thank you for sharing your knowledge a breath of fresh air in a crazy world we live in, take care saved my butt.
Awesome job. I have same issues with dual EPC 34’s on MY VW’s. Without my fuel pressure regulators to fine tune the psi they’d run terribly. With them, it’s a dream. Coo vid!
The O-ring is good when it's proud--it sits proud. Btw, O-rings are not all made with the same materials. I suggest you replace the entire needle and seat assembly. It's money well spent!
I've been able to revive several sets of needles and seats so a few $ in orings already saved me close to $100 in needles and seats. But I go through a lot of carbs so maybe for someone who only works on 1 carb every once in a while, a new N&S isnt a bad idea
@@NightWrencher I replace the the N&S assemblies every 5 years or so on my classic car--together with PCV Valve, Plugs, Fuel Filter, Manual Trans and Diff oil, Coolant, Belts, and Tires. I don't want a new O-ring on an old N&S assembly that already has an old needle tip. It's cheap insurance against flooding and possible fire.
@@NightWrencher im just happy it fired up. Still had an issue with the needle and seat after, took it apart and found a lil dirt clogged it from the cutting of fuel line. Now I need to check float levels and all the other stuff. Last time I tried to check the fuel pressure it came shooting out at me lol
My street brawler had float out of adjustment for a bit. Over filling the bowls. I re adjusted but now it wants to blow a blackish white smoke out the pipes. Ur video makes me believe I could have clogged air bleeds? It’s a pretty much new carb. 650 double pumper street brawler
If its a new carb, I dont think you'll have any issue with the air bleeds. I would check fuel pressure first and then after I verify thats its under 6.5psi, reset the idle adjustments
@@NightWrencher Oddly enough I have the The same problem with my Street Brawler 650. I called Holley tech support and they were no help. I set the fuel pressure at 5 psi with a return line to the tank. I set the fuel level as low as possible and I still get fuel coming in whenever the engine gets up to temp and then shut it off for 15 minutes. The power valve is a 5.5 @ 5000 feet elevation. I put a plastic 2 in spacer underneath the carb. The area around thefuel swerters look wet. This has the problem of washing the oil off the pistons but so far everything I have tried hasn't worked. Any other ideas? 🤔
great vedio loll wish i can gives ya million scribe that u deserves thank u so much, my holly secondary had made a new kit, by trades men, still leaks after stoped, so theres other issues i really learned too, thank u all boys
Very informative video! I am having an extreme problem with my Rinker boat with a 4 barrel carb. This unit is non adjustable which I think is normal of marine units. So fuel is pouring out of my front and rear tube now that I let the boat sit last summer(skin cancer issues). I just replaced new Holly needle and seat and same problem still. This boat has ran great for 4 years since I replaced engine/carb. Really messed up letting it sit last year! This needle and seat is just a pointy rubber coated tip. The old ones did seem worn a bit. Yet, new ones did not change the fuel spilling. I just tried to vent floats down more and didn't help. I sprayed the 2 holes per barrel a few times with carb cleaner. Guess I need to buy a gage and regulator next as I'm stumped. It's just a Carter pump that runs 4psi. I have no idea why I would all of a sudden have high fuel pressure. Any thoughts?
First thing I would check would be fuel pressure and fuel quality. Old fuel doesnt let the need seat well and can cause issues. If fuel pressure checks out, clear out the tanks with fresh fuel(make sure you have an inline filter). After that, I would make sure none of the old rubber from the old orings is preventing the oring on the new needle to seal up. Good luck.
@@NightWrencher thank you sir. I put a gauge on and it seems my 4psi non adjustable fuel pump is now putting out 15+ psi. Have you ever heard of an internal regulator failing? It's Carter and I think they are out of business now
thanks for the video this just helped me! holes needed cleaning and needle has a little bit of gunk in it. legend! Can i use carb cleaner whilst the carb is on the car to spray into those holes??
Great video, as usual. I wonder if you might have some thoughts on my current situation. Holley 770 street avenger with 13.5 AFR and 8 psi fuel pressure soon after choke turns off but not yet hot. After a few minutes the fuel pressure drops to 5-6 psi, which is great. Then, the fuel pressure continues decreasing to 2-3 psi and fuel starts spitting out of primary bowl vent tube and AFR drops to 11 or lower. This is a bit confusing since high fuel pressure would cause needle to unseat but not low fuel pressure. Also, vapor lock would starve fuel and AFR should jump above 14 etc. Could boiling or percolation in bowl cause fuel to discharge from vent tube and raw fuel cause low/rich AFR? Just to note, as pressure drops, fuel should boil at a lower temperature hence my concern about boiling fuel in bowl. Winter blend fuel is probably not helping the situation.
@@NightWrencher no regulator. using Holley 110 GPH mechanical fuel pump and I was told it wasn't needed. However, I can watch fuel pressure start at 8-9 psi during startup.
Every fuel pump that I have seen, needs a regulator on a modern holley. If you install even a cheap holley parts store regulator, it'll run way better. Anything past 6psi has enough pressure to push past the needle and seat slowly but surely. Once the bowl is over filled, the needle sticks open and bleeds all the pressure into the bowl. Install a regulator and I can almost guarantee that your problem will be fixed
Great explanation of bowl issues. I had a car that sat for a while and now the carb is pushing gas out the top. It is a 2 brl carb so I am guessing the basics are the same. I remember pulling a VW Bug carb apart and cleaned it up, put it back together and all was just fine. Hoping the same here. Good thought on new gas (the old stuff was pretty bad) and maybe that will clean up the issue. I'll start the easy fixes first before pulling anything apart. Sure appreciate the guidance. Fuel pressure is interesting, this is a 69 Mustang, 250 ci 6cyl engine. Any recommendation for a fuel pressure regulator?
Thats a really common issues with holleys that sit. Accel pump diaphrams get stiff too and the pump shot gets weak. Pull out the needle and seat and check if the oring is still good. If its flat, you need to replace it but if it still sticks out a bit, a fuel pressure regulator should help a lot. Oreilly usually stocks a holley one. Its precalibrated to 4-5psi so you can install it inline the fuel line and youll be good to go.
Chances are that the fuel is 1) leaking out past the bowl gasket 2) leaking down into the intake via a worn out PV or PV gasket 3) the fuel boils and evaporates from the heat and thats it. It takes a good while for fuel to evaporate out but if it boils, itll drip into the throat of the carb and when the fuel cools down, itll fall below where you can see it. The engine will tend be hard to start and act like its out of fuel but in reality, its actually flooded.
Take the bowls and metering blocks off and youll see the 4 small holes for the air bleeds on either side of the boosters. You can spray carb cleaner through those holes and they should blow everything out the top
Hey man, I thought I had replied but I guess it didnt post. My recommendation would be to verify fuel pressure and make sure no fuel is coming out of the boosters at idle.
Rebuilt my carb a year ago and it sat for a while. Found the orings to be completely flat and brittle. Are the R03 orings also advertised for ProTek RC Samurai 321B, S03? I see them listed all over by that name. Cheers.
You know, I dont think that number cross refferences. I have an SAE oring kit and the oring listed was R-03 but I'm not sure if thats an standard number or its a number just for the oring kit
@@NightWrencher Lol yea they didn't fit. Plenty of people on ebay selling just the viton oring for most holley carbs. At about a dollar a piece too. Cheers
I have an old holly without the float adjustment, and it’s spewing gas out the breather, I just cleaned it and it’s still doing it, what else can I possibly do?
2:40 this is currently happening to my Holley carb while idle and especially if I accelerate. If I replace the brass needle will that fix the problem? Are there additional steps I should take after replacing the needle?
I would at least pull it out and visually inspect it. If it looks dry or flat, go out and pick up a new needle and seat. But before you do anything, check your fuel pressure. I've seen tons of oe replacement mechanical fuel pumps put out at least 8psi brand new which would overpower the seat pressure in the bowl. Too many people blame the carb and have it rebuilt or replaced only to have the same problem happen again.
Lol no, its really easy, most parts stores can lend you a gauge or harbor freight sells cheap gauges too. You really just need to check it once while its idling and that's it. if its higher than 6psi, youll need to put a regulator between the mechanical pump and the carb, but if its lower than 6psi you can move on to checking the needle and seat
I'll try to find out and put it in a pinned comment but its one of the smaller SAE ones in the generic kits. About $9 at harbor frieght and $15 on summit. Has to be the red one. The blue one is metric
Hello I’m having trouble with a Quick Fuel carb, I’m running an EFI pump to a regular adjusted to 6 PSI. The float level will stay in adjustment on one side but the one the other I the level creeps causing flooding The carb is brand new never used but it has been sitting for 3 years maybe longer Do blow thru have the bleeds you’re talking about in the video? Thanks. Like and Subscribe
Hey man, chances are the orings in your carbs needle and seat are dried out. Try to lower the psi to 5 and see if it helps, if not, pull the needle and check the oring.
Forgot one other item to check
My float was full gas so that caused my flooding issue.
In 50 years of holley never had a flot go bad
Thank you so much. I converted a ford 460; in a bale wagon, from a mechanical fuel pump to an in-line pusher pump with fuel regulator. When I would attempt to start it I had fuel running out the top breather tower and in the boosters. I cleaned the breather holes and sure enough my o ring on needle seat was flat and brittle when removed. I put the new R-03 o ring on as following your directive adjusted it to where it sat just below the adjusting nut tightened it down, prayed to the Holley carb god, it started right up and IDLED. Went to the field to pickup bales it not only had good power but idled and ran so much cooler, thank you for sharing your knowledge a breath of fresh air in a crazy world we live in, take care saved my butt.
Thats awesome, good to hear! Great job!
Thank you, been struggling with diagnosing this over fueling issue.
This may fix my problem.
Very well made video. I have been working on Holley carburetors and this was new information about the "O" ring.
The oring is actually the cause of a lot of problems. The needle and seat isnt the issue most of the time.
Awesome job. I have same issues with dual EPC 34’s on MY VW’s. Without my fuel pressure regulators to fine tune the psi they’d run terribly. With them, it’s a dream. Coo vid!
Thank you! I learned that the hard way too!
Awesome Video, having flooding issues on my secondaries. Will look into each of these points. Thanks from Australia Mate.
Good luck!
Thanks for the video, it helped me diagnose the problem on my carb.
Thats awesome man, I'm glad it helped!
Very informative video 😊
Very helpful. Thanks for this video!
Thank you! I appreciate it!
VERY GOOD VIDEO, GREAT JOB!!
Thanks man, I appreciate it!
Thanks you. great information!
Thank you! Hope it helps!
The O-ring is good when it's proud--it sits proud. Btw, O-rings are not all made with the same materials. I suggest you replace the entire needle and seat assembly. It's money well spent!
I've been able to revive several sets of needles and seats so a few $ in orings already saved me close to $100 in needles and seats. But I go through a lot of carbs so maybe for someone who only works on 1 carb every once in a while, a new N&S isnt a bad idea
@@NightWrencher I replace the the N&S assemblies every 5 years or so on my classic car--together with PCV Valve, Plugs, Fuel Filter, Manual Trans and Diff oil, Coolant, Belts, and Tires. I don't want a new O-ring on an old N&S assembly that already has an old needle tip. It's cheap insurance against flooding and possible fire.
Thanks for this video was really helpful
You're welcome!
This is a good video, lots of info! Now that my first start was a success ill start tracing down my issues lol
One step at a time and youll get it 👍
@@NightWrencher im just happy it fired up. Still had an issue with the needle and seat after, took it apart and found a lil dirt clogged it from the cutting of fuel line. Now I need to check float levels and all the other stuff. Last time I tried to check the fuel pressure it came shooting out at me lol
I keep it at 5.5. Even a worn seat will work well at a lower psi
@@NightWrencher yea I got this marshall fluid filled fuel gauge that skips a few numbers
Very helpful bro thanks
Much appreciated!
NightWrencher RULES !!!!
I appreciate it!
This was fantastic. Super helpful! Thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
My street brawler had float out of adjustment for a bit. Over filling the bowls. I re adjusted but now it wants to blow a blackish white smoke out the pipes. Ur video makes me believe I could have clogged air bleeds? It’s a pretty much new carb. 650 double pumper street brawler
If its a new carb, I dont think you'll have any issue with the air bleeds. I would check fuel pressure first and then after I verify thats its under 6.5psi, reset the idle adjustments
@@NightWrencher
Oddly enough I have the
The same problem with my Street Brawler 650.
I called Holley tech support and they were no help. I set the fuel pressure at 5 psi with a return line to the tank.
I set the fuel level as low as possible and I still get fuel coming in whenever the engine gets up to temp and then shut it off for 15 minutes. The power valve is a 5.5 @ 5000 feet elevation. I put a plastic 2 in spacer underneath the carb. The area around thefuel swerters look wet.
This has the problem of washing the oil off the pistons but so far everything I have tried hasn't worked.
Any other ideas?
🤔
great vedio loll wish i can gives ya million scribe that u deserves thank u so much, my holly secondary had made a new kit, by trades men, still leaks after stoped, so theres other issues i really learned too, thank u all boys
Thank you and good luck!
Very informative video! I am having an extreme problem with my Rinker boat with a 4 barrel carb. This unit is non adjustable which I think is normal of marine units. So fuel is pouring out of my front and rear tube now that I let the boat sit last summer(skin cancer issues). I just replaced new Holly needle and seat and same problem still. This boat has ran great for 4 years since I replaced engine/carb. Really messed up letting it sit last year! This needle and seat is just a pointy rubber coated tip. The old ones did seem worn a bit. Yet, new ones did not change the fuel spilling. I just tried to vent floats down more and didn't help. I sprayed the 2 holes per barrel a few times with carb cleaner. Guess I need to buy a gage and regulator next as I'm stumped. It's just a Carter pump that runs 4psi. I have no idea why I would all of a sudden have high fuel pressure. Any thoughts?
First thing I would check would be fuel pressure and fuel quality. Old fuel doesnt let the need seat well and can cause issues. If fuel pressure checks out, clear out the tanks with fresh fuel(make sure you have an inline filter). After that, I would make sure none of the old rubber from the old orings is preventing the oring on the new needle to seal up. Good luck.
@@NightWrencher thank you sir. I put a gauge on and it seems my 4psi non adjustable fuel pump is now putting out 15+ psi. Have you ever heard of an internal regulator failing? It's Carter and I think they are out of business now
@@stankyd937 you can buy replacements at the parts stores for not a lot of money. They might be redesigned off brand carter pumps
@@stankyd937 when pumps sit, their internal regulator can get blocked so i think that is whats happening
@@NightWrencher will swap one in and report back. Thanks again. Best UA-cam mechanic out here in this category!
thanks for the video this just helped me! holes needed cleaning and needle has a little bit of gunk in it. legend! Can i use carb cleaner whilst the carb is on the car to spray into those holes??
Great video, as usual. I wonder if you might have some thoughts on my current situation. Holley 770 street avenger with 13.5 AFR and 8 psi fuel pressure soon after choke turns off but not yet hot. After a few minutes the fuel pressure drops to 5-6 psi, which is great. Then, the fuel pressure continues decreasing to 2-3 psi and fuel starts spitting out of primary bowl vent tube and AFR drops to 11 or lower. This is a bit confusing since high fuel pressure would cause needle to unseat but not low fuel pressure. Also, vapor lock would starve fuel and AFR should jump above 14 etc. Could boiling or percolation in bowl cause fuel to discharge from vent tube and raw fuel cause low/rich AFR? Just to note, as pressure drops, fuel should boil at a lower temperature hence my concern about boiling fuel in bowl. Winter blend fuel is probably not helping the situation.
Let me ask you this, what fuel pressure regulator are you using?
@@NightWrencher no regulator. using Holley 110 GPH mechanical fuel pump and I was told it wasn't needed. However, I can watch fuel pressure start at 8-9 psi during startup.
Every fuel pump that I have seen, needs a regulator on a modern holley. If you install even a cheap holley parts store regulator, it'll run way better. Anything past 6psi has enough pressure to push past the needle and seat slowly but surely. Once the bowl is over filled, the needle sticks open and bleeds all the pressure into the bowl. Install a regulator and I can almost guarantee that your problem will be fixed
@@NightWrencher That's the plan (and return line). Thanks so much for the information, very helpful.
Great explanation of bowl issues. I had a car that sat for a while and now the carb is pushing gas out the top. It is a 2 brl carb so I am guessing the basics are the same. I remember pulling a VW Bug carb apart and cleaned it up, put it back together and all was just fine. Hoping the same here. Good thought on new gas (the old stuff was pretty bad) and maybe that will clean up the issue. I'll start the easy fixes first before pulling anything apart. Sure appreciate the guidance. Fuel pressure is interesting, this is a 69 Mustang, 250 ci 6cyl engine. Any recommendation for a fuel pressure regulator?
Thats a really common issues with holleys that sit. Accel pump diaphrams get stiff too and the pump shot gets weak. Pull out the needle and seat and check if the oring is still good. If its flat, you need to replace it but if it still sticks out a bit, a fuel pressure regulator should help a lot. Oreilly usually stocks a holley one. Its precalibrated to 4-5psi so you can install it inline the fuel line and youll be good to go.
👌👍
👍
It looks like the specs for the oring that I use is R-03 008 3/16, 5/16, 1/16. I'm not 100% sure on that but Ill try to verify it asap
So what is the solution to Holley carb flooding after the engine is shut down "only"
Float bowl lwvel goes down and does not refillp
Only happens when the moter is warm
Chances are that the fuel is 1) leaking out past the bowl gasket 2) leaking down into the intake via a worn out PV or PV gasket 3) the fuel boils and evaporates from the heat and thats it. It takes a good while for fuel to evaporate out but if it boils, itll drip into the throat of the carb and when the fuel cools down, itll fall below where you can see it. The engine will tend be hard to start and act like its out of fuel but in reality, its actually flooded.
Good video👍....But i do have a ? were can those little o-rings (R03) seals be purchase.
You can but a whole bunch of them from BPTCarbs on ebay for cheap. Theyre called needle and seat orings
@@NightWrencher Thank you
Nice vid. Okay to flush out the air bleeds while the carb's still bolted to the intake?
Take the bowls and metering blocks off and youll see the 4 small holes for the air bleeds on either side of the boosters. You can spray carb cleaner through those holes and they should blow everything out the top
@@NightWrencher Thanks!
I have a Holley 4160 which will not run under 2000 revs. The fuel dribbles into the venturies rather than a mist can you help with a solution.
Hey man, I thought I had replied but I guess it didnt post. My recommendation would be to verify fuel pressure and make sure no fuel is coming out of the boosters at idle.
Did you post part numbers
Rebuilt my carb a year ago and it sat for a while. Found the orings to be completely flat and brittle.
Are the R03 orings also advertised for ProTek RC Samurai 321B, S03?
I see them listed all over by that name.
Cheers.
You know, I dont think that number cross refferences. I have an SAE oring kit and the oring listed was R-03 but I'm not sure if thats an standard number or its a number just for the oring kit
@@NightWrencher Lol yea they didn't fit.
Plenty of people on ebay selling just the viton oring for most holley carbs.
At about a dollar a piece too.
Cheers
Oh nice tip. I've gotta check it out 👍
I have an old holly without the float adjustment, and it’s spewing gas out the breather, I just cleaned it and it’s still doing it, what else can I possibly do?
Do you have a fuel pressure regulator on it?
@@NightWrencher no I do not, but should I need one with a factory pump?
It depends entirely on fuel pressure. Have you checked it?
@@NightWrencher not yet but I’ll try today, by any chance do I have to readjust the floats like I would a edelbrok?
I'm not sure, what is the list # on your carb?
I have a 4150 carb it seen no fuel is going into the engine the fuel bowl is full a fuel any idea
The only time youll see fuel is when you hit the accelerator and the accel pump nozzle shoot fuel. Is that what you mean?
@@NightWrencher well at first it wet all the plug and after a new set it seems all dry I will change the oil and see
2:40 this is currently happening to my Holley carb while idle and especially if I accelerate. If I replace the brass needle will that fix the problem? Are there additional steps I should take after replacing the needle?
I would at least pull it out and visually inspect it. If it looks dry or flat, go out and pick up a new needle and seat. But before you do anything, check your fuel pressure. I've seen tons of oe replacement mechanical fuel pumps put out at least 8psi brand new which would overpower the seat pressure in the bowl. Too many people blame the carb and have it rebuilt or replaced only to have the same problem happen again.
@@NightWrencher you wouldn't happen to have a video on how to check the fuel pressure would you? Lol
Lol no, its really easy, most parts stores can lend you a gauge or harbor freight sells cheap gauges too. You really just need to check it once while its idling and that's it. if its higher than 6psi, youll need to put a regulator between the mechanical pump and the carb, but if its lower than 6psi you can move on to checking the needle and seat
@@NightWrencher will do thanks man
What are the numbers on the needle and seat o-ring I can't find it
Thanks
I'll try to find out and put it in a pinned comment but its one of the smaller SAE ones in the generic kits. About $9 at harbor frieght and $15 on summit. Has to be the red one. The blue one is metric
www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w5202?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAuoqABhAsEiwAdSkVVFyvSw7uKV3cJIMOwDK9jcngKyC6JRN9QV17xvO7Ab_2yDUdVEsL1hoCOUcQAvD_BwE
Cross referenced the number and I put the specs on the pinned comment
Hello I’m having trouble with a Quick Fuel carb, I’m running an EFI pump to a regular adjusted to 6 PSI. The float level will stay in adjustment on one side but the one the other I the level creeps causing flooding
The carb is brand new never used but it has been sitting for 3 years maybe longer
Do blow thru have the bleeds you’re talking about in the video?
Thanks. Like and Subscribe
Hey man, chances are the orings in your carbs needle and seat are dried out. Try to lower the psi to 5 and see if it helps, if not, pull the needle and check the oring.
Will do, thank for for taking the time to answer my question.
@@rivermetal youre welcome, I hope it goes well for you!