Camelback Drill Press Gears 2: Cutting Gear Teeth on the First Gear
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- Camelback Drill Press Gears 2: Cutting Gear Teeth on the First Gear
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Something satisfying about seeing a gear cutting video, I guess it’s just the precision of the whole part.
I can see runout in the arbor shaft, like watching a jumping rope. You might want to set that shaft between centers and check the runout in the center. Fine video as always!
I thought the same thing. Worth checking, but it might just be the spacers running out
This type of setup always runs out due to the accumulation of clearances. The long shaft has some runout. The cutter bore is slightly larger than the shaft. The cutter OD is not perfectly true with the bore, and the bushing the shaft runs in has some running clearance. All of these tolerances cause cutters on horizontal shafts to run slightly eccentric.
@@ellieprice363 Along with all the spacers that may not be square and parallel - I've seen perfectly straight arbors pulled into a bow from one bad spacer.
@@ellieprice363 Ellie, thank you for taking the time to explain the process. Very patient of you! Every damn time Keith or a number of other machinists on UA-cam use a horizontal mill, there are the "experts" that have to be reminded of how things work in the real world.
@@ellieprice363 Thanks.
Nice work as usual, I enjoy following along it’s nice to see old equipment being kept in repair and in service still functional!
Yes Sir, very well spoken.
This was so cool... Would really love to see you machine a Herringbone gearset.
I think that your arbour is slightly out of true, hence perhaps the uneven cutting? You can see the out of true in the video. Try rolling it across a flat surface to check and you could apply the Keith Fenner straightening method?
Good morning Keith.
I am having coffee watching this.
Cheers ☕️, everyone watching.
Very nice work, outstanding.
Very interesting series.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
22:12 Your Arbor Press looks like it needs to be leveled Keith, the gear looks great...you the man!
Always like to see gear cutting. Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely wonderful job on making that gear! Best wishes.
I truly enjoyed watching you create these beautiful pieces of art.
Great stuff Keith
Monday’s experts abound
Turned out great for the first gear.
Thanks for sharing.
Hello Keith. I live in the UK so I will probably never be able to get to any of the meets you go to so it is unlikely that we will ever meet which I feel is a shame for me. I just want to say that I have been watching your channel for a long time now and I enjoy them very much but, also I have noticed how well you look at the moment. It’s good to see. I wish you well and I will continue to enjoy your posts. Best regards. John Greatorex. Derbyshire, England.
As a former jet engine mechanic, like you, we didn’t reuse bolts or cap screws as they were already stressed and stretched from original torquing.
Super video. You have turned a Good Friday into a really good Friday. Thanks. It's appreciated.
Great content as always. I know video can cause optical illusions such as wheels moving the wrong direction, and color differences on a rotating object can make it look like it is wobbling even if it is not. That said it does look like your arbor is bent which would explain the excessive amount of runout you were experiencing from that cutter.
Not criticising him but moving everything closer to the body of the mill and taking out some spacers and shortening the arbour would make things stiffer.
@Chris Stephens was thinking somewhat the same idea, seems there is a potential for an error with each small spacer, even if had larger spacers might reduce error possibilties and stiffen the arbor shaft.
@@LeonardRoberts I was thinking of fewer spacers and moving the end bearing and support arm inwards. Also move the dividing head over a T slot, providing there is room.
@@chrisstephens6673on mine the whole shaft doesn't fit though the support bearing, only the end. Still for a little cutter like that I suspect it's fine. Sounded like it was cutting nice on the last pass.
@@VoidedWarranty the over arm is adjustable for length surely.
Another great video, showing the use of tools and tooling I can only wish I had!
Excellent job Keith. After watching the vid numerous times, my eye picks up what I believe..... is that its NOT the cutter itself that has the run out, but the cross bar instead that appears to show a 3/4 thou to 1.5 thou runout/oscillation.....its clearly visible in many of the longer full frame sequences......its just enough to show a rhythmic up and down oscillation of the bar. Excellent excellent job as usual despite this minor problem.......
Don
Very nice Keith
Good morning Keith. Looking good. Thanks.
As always, excellent machining job making this gear
Thoughts going back and forth between "geez, that seems like overkill" and "somehow those gears got chewed up". I hope the future of the drill press is better than its past...
Love how you explain and show the procedures.
Thanx for the video ! Always a pleasure to learn from you. Please keep up the good work and I am looking forward to the next.
Very nice work Keith.
Thank you for sharing. FAN-tastic job.👍
Good looking gear Keith....Enjoyed !
Great work of making a gear, fun to view and learn, a thank you..... :)
Looks great!
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Interesting video. Thank you.
At 9:27 when the lathe slows to a stop, it looks like the hub is very off centre compared to the lathe setup?
Looks like about 40 thou off?
Wasn't it important to get the gear concentric to the bolted hub?
Nice job Keith.
thanks Keit
Great video thanks for sharing
Good morning
KEITH, GREAT JOB AND GREAT VIDEO...LET'S GO TO WORK...
Tisk Tisk Keith, 10-32 is a #21 drill. Just giving you a hard time ☺ Great video as usual!
I was surprised to see you cutting the gear while locating on the outside diameter. The gear does not have to run concentric with the outside diameter, but with the bore. I spent 50 years working in the gear and gearbox industry. However if noise and vibration is not an issue then what has been made is adequate.
Good Morning Georgia!😊
The clearance holes should have been all the way through the steel gear blank with the threaded section in the cast iron. It sounded like you only did the clearance deep enough for the counter bore. You could use an end mill bit to do the counterbore.
You would think by now Keith would have every single size of every single drill bit... but there's always another.
Should also oil the back side of the broach where it rubs the shims. I expect there's a lot of friction there.
37 is prime, so aside from that the next hole patterns you could use would be 74 or 111 holes.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe too slow of feed rate can cause a cutter to sound non concentric because the cutting teeth don't maintain contact throughout the cut.
Thank you!!
Nice work
Losing weight👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 hope health stays well for you ! Yes we can tell!
Thanks for sharing 👍
Good job
looks to me that the arbor that the cutter is on might be a little bent to make the cutter seem to be off center. looks like no problem with all the other work!!
Its funny how many people quote tom lipton. Hes an intelligent fella!
Is there a timing component between the two gears? Does it matter where the teeth start?
I imagine these gears are from the feed mechanism, if so the worst that can happen is that the lever/wheel/crank used for manual feeding ends up resting at a slightly different angle...
Looks nice!
Keith, how did the helical cut timing gear for that engine work out? Did it work ok on the engine rebuild?
Hiya Keith
When in doubt, make it stout out of things you know about.
I know you can always work around and get the depth you need but it looks like you arbor the bent on that gear cutter. May want to check it with a dial indicator if the runout bothers you.
I can't understand the 2nd half of the first sentence. and on the 2nd one, WHO may want to check it.. blah blah.
I'm not sure if he has said before but once he is do e with cutting a new gear does it have to be heat treated.
I noticed you used cutting oil to cut the gear teeth, but not when drilling and tapping the holes. How do you decide when to use oil? Also, do you recycle the cuttings from the various metals and machines? Thanks....
Sure looks easy when Keith does it!
You ever gonna lag down that arbor press to the concrete?
It looks like there's excessive runout on that arbor - is it straight?
lost a few pounds Keith look good on you man.
Question that heavy cut one side could that be so you have a relief cut for chips to clear out? And how do you cut internal splines to make a coupler for two shafts?
I need some splines cut on some transmission parts, this something you would be interested in ?
The new broach area looked to be narrow. Was that acceptable?
He said in the video that the 3/8th key fit perfectly. What is your bitch?
@@paulcopeland9035 it looks off to me too. just an observation
@16:20 or so. Is it just me but does that arbor look a little bent? I know with the spacers that might be an illusion... 🤔
You've got quite a bit of runout in the IDs of that assembly, isn't the gear supposed to be running true with respect to the id?
Looks like the OD and ID are not concentric.
Nice!! 🙂
Looks like the arbor is bent?
Hm, you seem to be more skinny...
Good stuff and right way forward!
Lathe chuck - MADE IN POLAND ☺
01 volta 03 furos no crivo de 37 furos.
What happened to the Stoker Engine?
I knew you would ask about that!! Thank you, my week is complete!!
😛😛😛😛❤❤❤🦾🦾🦴👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
#20 for a 10-32 in steel? I would have went with a #18.
Drill chart on my wall says #21, so where do you get #18???
@@paulcopeland9035 I got it from the old Cleveland Twist Drill chart on my shop wall. For a 32 pitch #10 in cast iron and steel a #18 provides a 50% thread. That same thread in aluminum and brass, you’d use a #21 for a 75% thread.
@@grntitan1 50% Thread ??? Who would want that? Throw that chart in the junk.
hub
The old part has al small key in it on both sides. Doesn't the new one need that also? EDIT: I was to quick with my comment. Awesome job Keith!
HOW did you ensure that the second key way was 180 from the first. ?Dave.
The keyways in the cast iron hub guided the broach for the slight cuts in the gear
Did you even watch the video?
The cutter is always true ... its the bent arbour that is the problem .....................
The bore is a mile off Keith........ but 'good enough '............... 😉