Graham, one of the reasons i enjoy your videos are the variety and depth of tools you show. I always learn and see something different and unusual. This helps when at a flea market looking for the old tools. Thank you
I truly enjoy your presentations - the inclusion of historical information (and showing examples of old tools) as well as the discussions of proper techniques makes your channel nearly unique among the plethora of woodworking videos. Thank you for sharing.
This is brilliant.. i remember my late father using an awl to make a birdcage and he didn't use a measuring tape or ruler but a woodbine box.. im motivated to work now.. thanks from Ireland..
Very informative. I had always thought that back-saws were meant to be operated on the pull stroke. I also watched your video about frame-saws and also had my thinking corrected about those tools. I have seen many people use frame-saws the wrong way and am happy to have learned better. Thank you.
10:16 I can’t tell you the number of houses Dad built over the course of his 50-year career as a carpenter. Thousands, if not more, in this little rural county with a population of 50,000. He specialized in home and barn building and he was a master at it! I would go with him to job sites on Saturdays to give him a hand and just to spend quality time with him. He taught me how to use one of these big boys. After a few minutes of his careful teaching I had that saw under my thumb, so he let me cut all the trim. “The thing with miter cuts, you can’t just measure your two lengths that you need to frame in a window or a door or whatever and then go cut all four pieces - your miters will be too tight or full of gaps, or your lengths will be off and everything will be all crooked. You have to start at the top and work your way down to have a picture-perfect window. People look at windows and even with drapes, they’ll notice a sloppy job. We don’t want a sloppy job” as he grinned and gave me a wink. So up the ladder he’d go, take the first measurement for the top piece, tell me the numbers, I’d cut the piece of moulding, hand it up to him, he’d nail that in, measure the left side and the miter, I’d make the cuts, hand him up the piece and he’d nail it in. I loved that big backsaw! We’d work for 8 or 9 hours like that, and get a lot of trim hung in the process! He told me years later that I saved his knees because he wasn’t constantly climbing up and down the ladder to measure, cut, and nail moulding in place. I loved working with him. He was a fabulous teacher, an awesome husband to my Mom and an incredible Dad to the five of us kids. I truly had a blessed childhood and I’m so thankful to my parents for making that happen. I miss both of them terribly, but I know they’re building me a new house in Heaven and I can’t hardly wait to see it … picture-perfect windows and all!! (Plus a purple Mustang on the driveway 😊) PS Graham, what is the title and artist of your opening music? Being an old jazz drummer, I really like it - it has what I call, “pop, pizazz and a driving cut” - all the good stuff!
Thank you as always. Very interesting tutorial. I actually have one of the large miter saws and miter stand that was demonstrated at the end of the episode and I love using it.
This is very true, although the model I have (can't remember how long I've had it) has adjustable back supports for different plate widths (apart from the fact that one can always adjust the height by adding extra base pieces.
That’s not 8 degrees. That’s 22.5 degrees … the 8 representing an 8 sided box. 4 is the 45 degree setting. Etc. I believe this scale was used up until the 1920s on the Stanley boxes.
Yes, of course you're correct.The old scale is particularly useful when making wedges for angled edges cut on a shooting board to figure out edge angles for various numbers of columnar boards.
Everyone says tapered blades are better, easier, nicer. While I don’t doubt it for a minute, I have yet to understand any of the explanations as to why. Lol! And I’ve heard a number of them. I have a fine quality pre-Disston, open handled, saw nuts Jackson tapered dovetail saw in the queue for major restoration. When done, I get to try out a true tapered blade. I think I’ll love it. Still, one thing I’m curious about. A number of the joinery saws I have restored were just set crooked in the spine so they resembled tapered blades. I’m not sure there would be much difference in the geometry when compared to a true tapered blade, so I wonder why a blade would need to be when all you need to do it tap the toe end a little more? Maybe there’s more to it than that?
I would love to take a tour of your shop. Maybe a video tour, if you don't already have one, would be nice.
What a great idea!
I’m pretty sure we’re looking at the whole shop but if I’m wrong that would be great .
Maybe one day!
Graham, one of the reasons i enjoy your videos are the variety and depth of tools you show. I always learn and see something different and unusual. This helps when at a flea market looking for the old tools. Thank you
Great to hear!
Really valuable information, Graham! Thanks a bunch!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, you too!
I truly enjoy your presentations - the inclusion of historical information (and showing examples of old tools) as well as the discussions of proper techniques makes your channel nearly unique among the plethora of woodworking videos. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you very much!
Another great video! Can't wait for your coverage of planes!!
Coming soon!
This is brilliant.. i remember my late father using an awl to make a birdcage and he didn't use a measuring tape or ruler but a woodbine box.. im motivated to work now.. thanks from Ireland..
Glad it was helpful!
Very informative. I had always thought that back-saws were meant to be operated on the pull stroke. I also watched your video about frame-saws and also had my thinking corrected about those tools. I have seen many people use frame-saws the wrong way and am happy to have learned better. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Graham!
Veritas also produces a decent back saws now.
I use their 20tpi rip saw for my small dovetails and it is pleasure to use.
I might start advertisingsome Veritas products.
10:16 I can’t tell you the number of houses Dad built over the course of his 50-year career as a carpenter. Thousands, if not more, in this little rural county with a population of 50,000. He specialized in home and barn building and he was a master at it! I would go with him to job sites on Saturdays to give him a hand and just to spend quality time with him.
He taught me how to use one of these big boys. After a few minutes of his careful teaching I had that saw under my thumb, so he let me cut all the trim. “The thing with miter cuts, you can’t just measure your two lengths that you need to frame in a window or a door or whatever and then go cut all four pieces - your miters will be too tight or full of gaps, or your lengths will be off and everything will be all crooked. You have to start at the top and work your way down to have a picture-perfect window. People look at windows and even with drapes, they’ll notice a sloppy job. We don’t want a sloppy job” as he grinned and gave me a wink.
So up the ladder he’d go, take the first measurement for the top piece, tell me the numbers, I’d cut the piece of moulding, hand it up to him, he’d nail that in, measure the left side and the miter, I’d make the cuts, hand him up the piece and he’d nail it in. I loved that big backsaw! We’d work for 8 or 9 hours like that, and get a lot of trim hung in the process!
He told me years later that I saved his knees because he wasn’t constantly climbing up and down the ladder to measure, cut, and nail moulding in place. I loved working with him. He was a fabulous teacher, an awesome husband to my Mom and an incredible Dad to the five of us kids. I truly had a blessed childhood and I’m so thankful to my parents for making that happen. I miss both of them terribly, but I know they’re building me a new house in Heaven and I can’t hardly wait to see it … picture-perfect windows and all!! (Plus a purple Mustang on the driveway 😊)
PS Graham, what is the title and artist of your opening music? Being an old jazz drummer, I really like it - it has what I call, “pop, pizazz and a driving cut” - all the good stuff!
It's a snatch of non-copyright tango.
@@gjbmunc
Thanks!
Like to see your collections. l always learn something new. Thank you for your time.
My pleasure!
I'm looking forward to the planes videos. Thanks for your knowledge!
Coming soon.
Very interesting video, enjoyed very much! Love your old collection of fantastic tools!
Glad you like them!
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you
You're welcome
Thank you for this great information!
You are so welcome!
Great information.
Thanks for watching!
Love backsaws
yep, really useful.
Thank you as always. Very interesting tutorial. I actually have one of the large miter saws and miter stand that was demonstrated at the end of the episode and I love using it.
Very cool!
Those old miter boxes used a 30" long saw with a plate of 4", 5" or 6". You need the correct plate depth for your miter box.
This is very true, although the model I have (can't remember how long I've had it) has adjustable back supports for different plate widths (apart from the fact that one can always adjust the height by adding extra base pieces.
yet another great share, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
Love it
Thanks!
That’s not 8 degrees. That’s 22.5 degrees … the 8 representing an 8 sided box. 4 is the 45 degree setting. Etc. I believe this scale was used up until the 1920s on the Stanley boxes.
Yes, of course you're correct.The old scale is particularly useful when making wedges for angled edges cut on a shooting board to figure out edge angles for various numbers of columnar boards.
Everyone says tapered blades are better, easier, nicer. While I don’t doubt it for a minute, I have yet to understand any of the explanations as to why. Lol! And I’ve heard a number of them. I have a fine quality pre-Disston, open handled, saw nuts Jackson tapered dovetail saw in the queue for major restoration. When done, I get to try out a true tapered blade. I think I’ll love it.
Still, one thing I’m curious about. A number of the joinery saws I have restored were just set crooked in the spine so they resembled tapered blades. I’m not sure there would be much difference in the geometry when compared to a true tapered blade, so I wonder why a blade would need to be when all you need to do it tap the toe end a little more? Maybe there’s more to it than that?
It's just that it's slightly easier to keep the saw centered if the front is a little narrower than the back.
Why do you not consider Veritas as comparison for tools
Working on it.
Is the cameraman pissed?
Always!!!