Beekeeping: How To Learn To Inspect Your Hive Fast
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- Опубліковано 25 чер 2024
- Beekeeping inspections should not take a long time. If you are taking more than 15 minutes to inspect your hive, I'll show you how to complete a thorough inspection in under 12 minutes.
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Whoa, you made it all the way down here! Thank you ♥️ Love you - Домашні улюбленці та дикі тварини
Thank you for posting this timely video. I have put off doing inspections, not only due to heat, but more so I'm afraid of having the hive open too long and starting a robbing situation. This video has given me more confidence that I can get in and get out without much hassle.
Glad it helped
Thanks David. You're the best as always! My Mom was just asking how ofter we should be checking on the new hive. I sent this to her!
Thanks David.
Glad to help!
David, the one area that I also check is the bottom box. I understand it may take a little longer but with full honey supers, I want to make sure the bees are not back filling and to determine what is happening in that space regarding queen activity.
Thank you Dave! I’m going to try this 15:52
You got this!
You mentioned the weight of supers. Everything I have is 10 frame but I've been thinking about going to eight frame to help my back...
I went 8 frame after I turned 65 and had back surgery. 10 frame boxes became nuc boxes.
Hmm, I always just shake into a dishpan allow any foragers to leave and scoop up that 1/2 cup of nurse bees. Never seen that cup scrape technique.
This is a fast way for me to test for mites. I do the tub technique and it does allow foragers to fly out fast, but it's one extra step for me that I try to eliminate.
Also, Veta-Pharma, the maker of the Varroa EasyCheck has a video demonstration on their website and they show how you fill the cup kit up with alcohol and then drag in down a frame and the bees drop in.
David, I can do an informative hive inspection (bees, brood, food and disease) in less than one minute all while sitting down! Three frames of brood is a standard for disease surveillance. We need to continue teach people how to do informative hive inspections... nice job. George
Good point with that new Keepers Hive!! I'll make a comparison video showing how fast I can do the equal inspection with the keeper's hive. Good point.
@@beek Only if you think it merits it. I was more agreeing with the points of an informative hive inspection.
Read my mind!!! I just did my first double brood inspection as a newbie. It took too long and this will help sooo much!
Glad I could help!
Hey David! Wondering if the queen lays drones, and if so, how does she differentiate between fertilized and not fertilized eggs??
Wow, great question for my livestream tonight, can you join us. 7pm central time. I hope you can be there and post this question. Here's the link: ua-cam.com/users/liveWyDOnzRy5O4
Your bees make a lot of propolis wow it’s just like gum
How do you deal with build up between boxes 📦 like that. Looking forward to a video on it 😊 Have a great 4th David and Sheri
Hi Brian maybe I'll drop back and make a video of that. Have a nice weekend!
I am wondering how you know that a whole super is harvestable when you’ve only checked one middle frame? Couldn’t some of the outside frames be only partially capped?
Oh that is a perfect question tonight on my livestream. I hope you can be there and post this question. Here's the link: ua-cam.com/users/liveWyDOnzRy5O4
Hey David, wouldn’t you want to keep the hive open until you know the results of your mite wash? If your mite could was high you could treat them (Formic Pro) without having to take the hive apart again.
I had faith they would be low 😄 I generally go back in a couple of days and add the treatment if needed. But you are right you could add it that day.
David a quick question on the honey supers I have like five complete boxes full with honey in the supers but none of it is capped is there something I can do to help them out with capping itCharlie PA
If you are starting to go into a dearth they might not cap the honey. Try the shake test or test the moisture levels with a refractometer before extracting. As long as your moisture levels are 18 percent or below you're safe to extract.
You may want to use a refractometer to see where your moisture content is. Sometimes there will be
Just saw Kamon Reynolds discuss this. His take was that if the moisture is correct with a refractometer, go ahead and harvest if you want. He thinks that during a dearth the bees may not cap the honey to save resources.
How do you like that hive stand, David? Do they seem to hold up well over the winter? Thank you for the videos, always some good information. 🐝🐝
Oh that is a perfect question tonight on my livestream. I hope you can be there and post this question. Here's the link: ua-cam.com/users/liveWyDOnzRy5O4
David, when are you sure that the bees are no longer trying to create swarm cells or supersedure cells? You wouldnt be able to inspect this way if they were present correct?
In lots of other spring videos I have made I promote checking for swarm cells every week, so you are correct.
Learn to keep feral bees to avoid EHB pitfalls
If your queen is laying in a super and you put a queen excluder there, let the brood hatch out, and they refill those cells with honey is that OK for consumption or do you have to use a new frame/new wax?
Oh that is a perfect question tonight on my livestream. I hope you can be there and post this question. Here's the link: ua-cam.com/users/liveWyDOnzRy5O4
@@beek yes sir I will definitely try! Will be on my way home from class, you are the perfect topic on the way home to listen to!
Hey Dave, do you use the deep, super brood box config alot?
Usually I use two deeps, and sometimes one honey super as the permanent hive, and honey supers on top of that configuration. Sometimes I do have one deep and one super, but not very many. Thanks for being a subscriber for a year!
is that hive entrance always facing the wall or is this just for ease of filming?
Oh that is a perfect question tonight on my livestream. I hope you can be there and post this question. Here's the link: ua-cam.com/users/liveWyDOnzRy5O4
I wonder if you are looking for swarm cells and take upp one frame of brood, if it would have caped brood, larve and eggs but no queen cells. Would that be enough to confirm that they are not planning to swarm or would you need to check more frames?
I’m out of swarm season now
When removing frames from the middle, do you have problems with rolling the bees? I've always removed an outermost frame first, then spread remaining frames out until I reach the one I want to inspect. Is there a trick to getting around that?
I always teach to remove the one next to the wall first and then keep it out of the hive so that you can have room to move frames around. You'll see this in most of my videos. However IF the combs are not touching and there is plenty of space, a skilled and experienced beekeeper can pull out a middle frame without injuring bees.
I have two brood boxes and added a super 2 weeks ago they have not drawn out the super at all but they have put a lot of honey in the brood boxes and are not leaving much room for brood what should I do
Oh that is a perfect question tonight on my livestream. I hope you can be there and post this question. Here's the link: ua-cam.com/users/liveWyDOnzRy5O4
@@beek I wasn't able to make it to the live stream
I've seen the powdered sugar method used to test for mites and it seemed accurate. Could you share your thoughts on the powdered sugar test compared to the alcohol test? Have you ever done a side by side comparison from the same hive? I really enjoy your videos, but I'm not sure how some of the information transfers to top-bar hives, which is what I regrettably ended up going with.
Yes I made that comparison video. Here you go: ua-cam.com/video/j0dqvvuR7zk/v-deo.htmlsi=2jfpYNUFDPZH9kcJ
As if there is no excuder between brood en super boxes?
As I mentioned in a recent video, I do not use queen excluders as I allow a honey super to be my queen excluder.
Throwing out a question looking for advice. I'm in SE Wisconsin, 1st season keeping bees and started with 2 nucs. Haven't had the best of luck. Things started out great but the queen in the 1st hive stopped laying. I saw her during inspection but no eggs. Had to replace her.
2nd hive was going great. 2 deeps and a super with 3 frames of honey during last inspection. Problem is there were 12 capped queen cells and one open one and I couldn't find the marked queen. Trying to decide if it's too late in the season and I should let them figure it out. Don't know if they swarmed or are superceeding her. Should I split the remaining cells into 2 colonies and hope they recover enough to make it through winter. Is it too late to split? Other options?
That sounds like swarm cells due to the number of cells. Swarm cells are on the bottom or lower portion of the frames. If they indeed swarmed the marked queen left with the swarm and they raised a new queen from one of those cells. If they swarm, they do not need to be split as they have already halved. Continue to watch and make sure they have strong brood and resources.
@@beek thank you! I appreciate the advice. With all the rain and being out of town I didn't catch the queen cells in time to split.
Thanks David oh my goodness I"m way way too slow at least an hour.
Nice that you are learning and indeed one hour is a bit too long so I hope this video will bring some techniques for you to try. I’m addressing this more in my livestream tonight: www.honeybeesonline.com/live
@@beek David how often would you look at every frame in the brood box?
What’s a thurl inspection?
Thorough. This means a longer, more intense inspection than just a quick look.
A thorough inspection is one that consist of more than just checking for eggs.
You dont need to assess / inspect the bottom deep?
Not always, generally speaking you can inspect two or three frames of brood and have a good feel for any problems.
I have trouble finding my queen
Many people do, and try using my 5 frame nuc hive as your trainer hive.
Who hasn't? Mine are black, I just see black stuff everywhere.
Easier with a nuck. A big hive is too much for me and I played with queens when I was 10. Baby hives with queens nobody wanted 😊
bee busy
With my african bees iam speed running this
The longer I take the worst for me and bees because they are stinging my suit as soon as I get 10 meters close to the hive lol
Ouch!
You might wanna get a new queen. We had a very violent hive....got a new queen, and as Her babies were born, and the other bees died with time, they are now a very calm hive! Total game changer!!!