Just found your channel, I’m buying mini bikes for my boys this Christmas and you guys are awesome. By far the clearest information on the upgrades. Thanks and keep it up!
Thanks..I had a question..you did all the stage one mods, gov delete, did you change valve springs? Can I do stage 1 and change springs to #18 without swapping flywheel ...why do I keep hearing that you need to go to bullet fw on these hemi's?? Thanks
Remove front drain plug & apply lock tite.. snug it back in & use a cut off wheel to cut the head of the bolt off. You can almost make it flush to the engine. Gives you enough room to wiggle/mount the engine flush onto the mounting plate. To change the oil use rear drain plug. You will need to shave the plastic housing a little behind the choke & fuel levers.. line it all up with clutch & sprocket.. 👍🏼 Built close to 20 of these monster moto/motovox.. Also grade #5 bolts.. a must!! Nice video by the way..
Hell yea im in the process of installing a 212cc on my mini bike that came with a battery and I couldn’t find any videos on how to do it and this are going to be perfect thanks guys
I used a piece of marine plywood instead of the metal spacers to raise the engine so I could add a torque converter instead of the cent clutch. I also mounted the fuel tank in front of the seat on top so it's easier to access the fuel cap. With the torque converter the bike will raise the front wheel if you open the throttle too quickly. The plywood seems to decrease vibration.
No, it cannot be done with the original chain and original clutch. The output shaft on the 212 engine is larger than the output shaft on the stock engine; therefore the original clutch will not fit and cannot be adapted. The original chain is too short and must be lengthened to accommodate the new components. I suppose it may be possible to reuse your original chain and add a few links from another chain (be careful to match sizes) and add an additional master link (that's code for "add an additional failure point").
I have a HRM billet aluminum adjustable motor plate, do you have any recommendations for how to properly mount it and where to drill holes on a MM 105 frame?
Awesome video! The 212 doesnt seem to fit with the spacers and the factory muffler. Thinking about cutting off the front oil plug to slide the motor all the way up still and it should work with the factory muffler and no spacers. Any other way to do it without cutting the frame?? I do not want to put an aftermarket pipe on it.
Answer: yes you can. I cut off the oil plug head on the front. Also had to notch out the heat shield on the muffler to fit around the frame. Did not have to modify stock air box.
Very very good video....I'm going to save this one and follow you guys exactly. It's videos like this that gives me confidence in doing jobs I wouldn't otherwise attempt. Keep up the great work.
Hey guys i bought one of these designs from someone and fell on the bike 😅. Not to hard but long story short, the engine now has trouble starting up and when it does, it either dies after idling for a few seconds or dies immediately after pressing the gas. Spark plugs have been changed
That's quite a swing - You like the video, then you want to cancel us with BLM by inviting them to our page, then you talk about my sibling's anal sphincter. Bro, we are glad to entertain you, but these comments are nearly impossible to follow. Maybe edit them up for clarity.
@@therealdjbamnyc2391 , Make sure your clutch matches the crankshaft of the engine you choose. The HF 212 Predator is 3/4". The centrifugal clutches work with a spring that compresses the shoes inward. These shoes are thrown outward by the rotation of the engine, and when the engine is spinning fast enough the shoes overcome the force of the spring and push outward on the clutch bell. A lot of stop and go riding will heat the shoes and bell. You will have an issue if you get the spring too hot as it won't pull the shoes back in so your clutch will be "engaged" any time the engine spins. Choose a clutch fits your budget and desire - you can spend 20 dollars all the way up to a few hundred dollars. I like the 20 dollar ones, they work well and if you tear one up they are cheap (enough) to replace.
Perfect step by step tutorial thank you
Just found your channel, I’m buying mini bikes for my boys this Christmas and you guys are awesome. By far the clearest information on the upgrades. Thanks and keep it up!
Thank you Doug.
What happened to you guys? This videos are so helpful
Thanks..I had a question..you did all the stage one mods, gov delete, did you change valve springs? Can I do stage 1 and change springs to #18 without swapping flywheel ...why do I keep hearing that you need to go to bullet fw on these hemi's?? Thanks
Hey just wondering what cluch are you guys using
can you share the list of parts you used?
Remove front drain plug & apply lock tite.. snug it back in & use a cut off wheel to cut the head of the bolt off. You can almost make it flush to the engine. Gives you enough room to wiggle/mount the engine flush onto the mounting plate. To change the oil use rear drain plug. You will need to shave the plastic housing a little behind the choke & fuel levers.. line it all up with clutch & sprocket.. 👍🏼 Built close to 20 of these monster moto/motovox.. Also grade
#5 bolts.. a must!! Nice video by the way..
Hell yea im in the process of installing a 212cc on my mini bike that came with a battery and I couldn’t find any videos on how to do it and this are going to be perfect thanks guys
Awesome... have fun with it!
What’s a bad boy?
All the 212 I’ve ever delt with I’ve never done a clutch backwards? How did that work out? I’m curious cause it’s good thinking honestly!
Works great.
I used a piece of marine plywood instead of the metal spacers to raise the engine so I could add a torque converter instead of the cent clutch. I also mounted the fuel tank in front of the seat on top so it's easier to access the fuel cap. With the torque converter the bike will raise the front wheel if you open the throttle too quickly. The plywood seems to decrease vibration.
Take out the front drain plug and replace with a regular plug and you can tighten it down below flush for maximum clearance.
Do you have to buy individual clutch when you buy these Predator 212
Yes, you have to buy the clutch separately. The Predator 212 does not come with a clutch.
man i have watched these videos and i am just trying to figure out if it 𝘤𝘢𝘯 𝘣𝘦 𝘥𝘰𝘯𝘦 with the origianl chain and clutch?
No, it cannot be done with the original chain and original clutch. The output shaft on the 212 engine is larger than the output shaft on the stock engine; therefore the original clutch will not fit and cannot be adapted. The original chain is too short and must be lengthened to accommodate the new components. I suppose it may be possible to reuse your original chain and add a few links from another chain (be careful to match sizes) and add an additional master link (that's code for "add an additional failure point").
What exhaust header is that? I'm doing the same thing and want something like that
Purchased the exhaust off Amazon.
@@LetsBuildThat Mind sharing a link to it?
Why did you use 3/4 inch spacers in the back and 1/2 inch in the front?
Hi! Can you share a list of all the parts that you used in the build and where you purchased them from? Thanks in advance!
Great video. thanks.
Why my rear wheel doesn’t roll its very very hard for the rear wheel to roll
Chain may be too tight.
If you made the rear spacer 1" maybe the exhaust would clear the fender?
Where do you install the extra spring for the throttle linkage
I have a HRM billet aluminum adjustable motor plate, do you have any recommendations for how to properly mount it and where to drill holes on a MM 105 frame?
HRM billet aluminum adjustable motor plate? Link please?
Very well executed
Thank you.
also noticed the bolt that holds in the clutch is not the same as the one removed from the 80cc. Do you know the bolt size the predator 212 uses?
5/16x24 (fine pitch).
Hey guys can I use the same chain from the moto80 once I put the predator 212on?
Great videos, very detailed. If you install the 212 stock without the stage one kit, do you still need the spacers? Thanks
No need for spacers
Awesome video! The 212 doesnt seem to fit with the spacers and the factory muffler. Thinking about cutting off the front oil plug to slide the motor all the way up still and it should work with the factory muffler and no spacers. Any other way to do it without cutting the frame??
I do not want to put an aftermarket pipe on it.
Answer: yes you can. I cut off the oil plug head on the front. Also had to notch out the heat shield on the muffler to fit around the frame. Did not have to modify stock air box.
When talking grade 8 vs grade 5. What about stainless bolts? They usually come in about as strong as grade 8.
What exhaust pipe did you use on the build? Thanks I used your video to build mine 😂
What kind of header pipe is that
Your final install video won’t play, need to know how you mount the motor
plays fine on my end.
Was that a 3/4 clutch? Better yet what size?
What size spacers did u have to use for the lift of the motor??
He said it was 1/2 inch front and 3/4 inch at rear.
Very very good video....I'm going to save this one and follow you guys exactly. It's videos like this that gives me confidence in doing jobs I wouldn't otherwise attempt. Keep up the great work.
Awesome! Thank you!
good stuff guys... what's the best way to maintain easy starting when taking the Predator 212 to a stage one level?
Should start easy after stage 1 if everything is assembled and installed correctly
Good video guys
what clutch did you use? I'm doing this exact swap!
You need a 12 tooth 3/4 inch bore clutch. The clutch from the 80cc motor won't work.
35 chain?
@@nicholasgonzalez4125 Yes sir.
Hey guys i bought one of these designs from someone and fell on the bike 😅. Not to hard but long story short, the engine now has trouble starting up and when it does, it either dies after idling for a few seconds or dies immediately after pressing the gas. Spark plugs have been changed
Has is ever set outside in 🌧️ in rain?
What type of engine is it the original or a swap
Thanks for the reply! It just needed gas 😵💫
These guys are great. They pound iron, and work modifying mini bikes.
Good work fellas.
Can we get a part list
good job guys
That's quite a swing - You like the video, then you want to cancel us with BLM by inviting them to our page, then you talk about my sibling's anal sphincter. Bro, we are glad to entertain you, but these comments are nearly impossible to follow. Maybe edit them up for clarity.
so you use the same clutch from the mm80? n yea great step by step video
BAM NYC , no the MM80 uses a smaller clutch, a 5/8 id. You will want a 3/4” id clutch to match the crankshaft of the Predator 212.
@@LetsBuildThat any suggestions or other specs I might need to know other than 3/4 clutch
@@therealdjbamnyc2391 , Make sure your clutch matches the crankshaft of the engine you choose. The HF 212 Predator is 3/4". The centrifugal clutches work with a spring that compresses the shoes inward. These shoes are thrown outward by the rotation of the engine, and when the engine is spinning fast enough the shoes overcome the force of the spring and push outward on the clutch bell. A lot of stop and go riding will heat the shoes and bell. You will have an issue if you get the spring too hot as it won't pull the shoes back in so your clutch will be "engaged" any time the engine spins. Choose a clutch fits your budget and desire - you can spend 20 dollars all the way up to a few hundred dollars. I like the 20 dollar ones, they work well and if you tear one up they are cheap (enough) to replace.
Can you use the chain from the 80cc motor on the new 212 clutch. Tryna get a parts list for all i need. Im not gonna go stage 1. Gonna keep.it simple.
You need a new chain.
Sweet duo man.. Liked the vid & subbed