Sometimes I have spare 2 by dimensional lumber that I break down to make frames with and get the bevel with my table saw. However, I prefer to use 1x2 or 1x3 and glue 3/4 shoe molding onto it. That gives you 1.5" depth, the same effect as a bevel and no power tools required. A cheap hand saw miter box would be sufficient for the corners.
Very nicely done - super clear and easy to follow. Might add that a person making a lot of large canvases might do well to get a compressed air stapler or powerful electric stapler?
So frustrating all these DYI…. I wouldn’t watch these videos if I had all those equipments right? They cost more than the canvas I need it for. Thanks for making us feel like losers!
Hi, nice video, I'm confused though about the planer doing the beveling.. couldn't you do the miter cuts for the corners first, so that the wood pieces sit flat on the miter saw? If you bevel them first on both sides they won't sit flat on the miter saw and may end up being hard to get a 45 degree angle. I think you mentioned that you could do it with a sander just as well, why not just bevel them with a sander during the sanding step after it is all assembled? What is that for anyway, is that so there is no hard corner to tear the canvas? Could i just use a router to make a rounded edge on them instead after it is assembled?
Hi there thanks so much for the video. I’m wondering what your thoughts are on using pre beveled thicker stretcher parts from an artist outlet and then using the thinner wood planks from home dept or sm. Would it be still as tight?
Great video! For the 1"x2"s, do you use a specific kind of wood, or do you just the the basic furring strips they sell at hardware stores like Home Depot?
No need to add any finish to the frame since it won't be seen (covered by canvas). If you are concerned about the wood rotting or warping over time, I'd just make sure to use pressure-treated / milled lumber (typically pine or cedar).
I cannot tell from watching the video and did not hear you mention it in the video: when you add the outer support back planks, do you position them in the middle of the frame side (since you are connecting the back plank's 1" side to the frame plank's 2" side)? Or do you position the back planks closer to the front or back of the frame?
She deserves more followers with this kind of detail
good job simp!
Great video!! Thank you!
What an amazing video! I cant wait to try (attempt) this! Thank you
5:38 Your cat is darn cute! I had to comment >< Thanks for the vid!
Straight to the point. Thank you for sharing 😊
Very good! Easy to follow. Thank you!
Queen. Thank you for this content.
nice. this is the exact video I needed. well done
Look at those editing skills!
you should get simp of the year!
Sometimes I have spare 2 by dimensional lumber that I break down to make frames with and get the bevel with my table saw. However, I prefer to use 1x2 or 1x3 and glue 3/4 shoe molding onto it. That gives you 1.5" depth, the same effect as a bevel and no power tools required. A cheap hand saw miter box would be sufficient for the corners.
Great video. Thank you Anna!
You are so welcome!
Thank you, you've done good job a different way to make it streched,
Great frame info!! Just made my first frame! 60x48
Very nicely done - super clear and easy to follow. Might add that a person making a lot of large canvases might do well to get a compressed air stapler or powerful electric stapler?
Yeah totallly! You wouldn't need to hammer them if you had one of those! :)
This video deserves way more views and likes!
So frustrating all these DYI…. I wouldn’t watch these videos if I had all those equipments right? They cost more than the canvas I need it for. Thanks for making us feel like losers!
Stretch from the middle in a diamond shape then work outwards
Nice video, thanks!
Great video !
Awesome!
you like the oly person that makes sence making a DIY canvas
Hi, nice video, I'm confused though about the planer doing the beveling.. couldn't you do the miter cuts for the corners first, so that the wood pieces sit flat on the miter saw? If you bevel them first on both sides they won't sit flat on the miter saw and may end up being hard to get a 45 degree angle. I think you mentioned that you could do it with a sander just as well, why not just bevel them with a sander during the sanding step after it is all assembled? What is that for anyway, is that so there is no hard corner to tear the canvas? Could i just use a router to make a rounded edge on them instead after it is assembled?
Hi there thanks so much for the video. I’m wondering what your thoughts are on using pre beveled thicker stretcher parts from an artist outlet and then using the thinner wood planks from home dept or sm. Would it be still as tight?
I like what you did. Why did you stagger the back braces?
I believe it’s because you need the space to drill the screws.
I had to stagger them to be able to install the 3in screws on both sides of the braces.
Great video! For the 1"x2"s, do you use a specific kind of wood, or do you just the the basic furring strips they sell at hardware stores like Home Depot?
The 1x2s they sell at Home Depot work great! I purchased pine 1x2s that were already milled and sanded to make it easier
Good job Anna. Well demonstrated and well explained. I've routered the frame but I can see running a planer on an angle is easy and quick. Good idea.
Great vid.. My only suggestion would be to get a work bench or table to work on. All that leaning over is hurting my back 😉
Gracias.❤excelente
great video
How did you find a roll of canvas wide and long enough for these dimensions?
Hi, do you apply any wood finish to the frame?
No need to add any finish to the frame since it won't be seen (covered by canvas). If you are concerned about the wood rotting or warping over time, I'd just make sure to use pressure-treated / milled lumber (typically pine or cedar).
Where do you buy the materials
how did you get the canvas taut? no wedges or shims, just canvas pliers?
I cannot tell from watching the video and did not hear you mention it in the video: when you add the outer support back planks, do you position them in the middle of the frame side (since you are connecting the back plank's 1" side to the frame plank's 2" side)? Or do you position the back planks closer to the front or back of the frame?
middle to back. they should be away from the bevel by about 1/4"
What website did you make your plans on?
Very nicely done :) You are a great teacher too!
Thank you for the guide.
What about stretching the painted canvas, should I be worried about damaging the painting with over tension?
That is why it's important to bevel the sides of the frame. Adding the bevel will help in keeping the painting level and even over time.
How about stretching the fabric and gluing it together This part is not shown. please help me ):
ill wait for your response )):
Is the pointy side of the bevel turned to the front of the frame or to the back? Thanks for the guide!
Front side! And you're welcome :)
@@annasagan thank you! I've figured it out and now I have a nice DIY'd painting in my room :)
What are the measurements for the back support planks?
So is the beveled sides of the wood facing the front of the canvas or in the back where you are stapling?
You could bevel both edges where the canvas will stretch over it.
With the sanding block, what grit? They have 80, 120, 180.
Keep making videos!
what did the materials cost
The materials cost around $70. (That only includes the wood, canvas, glue, screws, and sanding blocks.)
Is there a certain type of canvas material/cloth that should be used?
yes, primed canvas, the heavier and smoother the better. unprimed canvas does not take paint well, is hard to paint on and will sometimes rot.
🎉
The only problem I have is that I don't have power tools 😂 guess I'll have to outsource
Get the measurements and have the pieces cut at Home Depot. That’s what I did and it came out pretty nice.
@anna Sagan is there a Mr. Sagan? 👀👀👀
Please upload some of your work!
The blog was deleted 😭
Hi! I changed my website up a year ago so the old link might be broken. try this: www.annasagan.com/blogs/news/how-to-make-a-large-canvas
almost...
It's not ready for paint. You can't paint on that. You need to gesso it first.
I was taught to put rabbit skin glue on then gesso in art school. =)
Don't be talking about my dog anna
Girl if you don’t buy that shit from hobby lobby 🙄
Yum
Great video!