Hey mark, I just finished working on this very same issue and I may have some advice that can help you if you have to go through this again. We disconnected the control arm from the underbelly of the vehicle instead of disconnecting it from the wheel assembly, and that gave us plenty of room to remove the old CV axle. Just had to remove 3 metric bolts from the inner fender wheel protection to get to the control arm connections.
Good to know, Amy. The guys grand daughter ended up trading it off. I will keep this in mind though, since many of these techniques work with other vehicles!
I ended up doing the same thing on the passenger side. Was a huge pain to get that lower control arm back in and lined up. Driver side ball joint surprisingly came out easily
Man, what a bear that was. Sometimes projects are just gonna be a pain no matter what. Some road grime and dissimilar metals can make for interesting times, no doubt. I've found the good old "heat & beat" can be useful. Good job getting it done UncleMark!
I don’t have a torch, but need to look into a way heating things up. Not sure if MAP gas could approach temperatures that could help in removal, even if it took longer to heat? Just asking…
Next time you have a stuck bolt like that take the open end of the wrench and stick it behind the bolt head and pry it out while running it off with you impact. The best way to get those CV axles out is to push in first then give it a good pull.Good vid👍
wow that thing put up a fight did you lose any skin off your knuckles.....that would be my luck get into a job like that and not being able to finish it ....you guys did a great job ...who did you buy the breaker bar from did it come with a lifetime warranty? dad always had a snipe you never knew what was gonna break first the nut or the socket or the rachet big bang if no sweating you knew he got it ...thanks for the video
LOL, not sure what you are referring to. Did this video about 300 videos ago. they all seem to mess together. If it is really important, let me know what time stamp in the video you noticed it! Thanks, Marty.
Yep. You may have to do the same as pulling it out. Try turning it a 1/4 turn or so, then try to push it back in. If it doesn't work, try another 1/4 turn? It should easily snap back in.
@@unclemarksdiyautojust did the lower control arms and the strut assembly on both sides 40” breaker and it spun right off used just a flat head to lift it just enough you probably bent the tabs a little more with the first bigger screwdriver like i did with the driver side and the tierod end just use a inverted allen wrench socket and a pickle fork spreads the tierods and lower ball joints have to go through the same process
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Hey mark, I just finished working on this very same issue and I may have some advice that can help you if you have to go through this again. We disconnected the control arm from the underbelly of the vehicle instead of disconnecting it from the wheel assembly, and that gave us plenty of room to remove the old CV axle. Just had to remove 3 metric bolts from the inner fender wheel protection to get to the control arm connections.
Good to know, Amy. The guys grand daughter ended up trading it off. I will keep this in mind though, since many of these techniques work with other vehicles!
I ended up doing the same thing on the passenger side. Was a huge pain to get that lower control arm back in and lined up. Driver side ball joint surprisingly came out easily
Man, what a bear that was. Sometimes projects are just gonna be a pain no matter what. Some road grime and dissimilar metals can make for interesting times, no doubt. I've found the good old "heat & beat" can be useful. Good job getting it done UncleMark!
I don’t have a torch, but need to look into a way heating things up. Not sure if MAP gas could approach temperatures that could help in removal, even if it took longer to heat? Just asking…
@@unclemarksdiyauto our Home Depot stores sell a portable oxy/acetylene torch kit for a couple hundred. Well worth the investment.
@@ProjectTimeGarage Good to know! Thanks for the info!
Im stuck on this😅trying to replace the axle
@@lokomike88i How are you stuck? Getting it out?
@@unclemarksdiyauto out..but i found a removing tools n amazon..
Next time you have a stuck bolt like that take the open end of the wrench and stick it behind the bolt head and pry it out while running it off with you impact. The best way to get those CV axles out is to push in first then give it a good pull.Good vid👍
Thanks for the tip EatSleepFarm! Never had so u h trouble with one before. Will try your method next time!
wow that thing put up a fight did you lose any skin off your knuckles.....that would be my luck get into a job like that and not being able to finish it ....you guys did a great job ...who did you buy the breaker bar from did it come with a lifetime warranty? dad always had a snipe you never knew what was gonna break first the nut or the socket or the rachet big bang if no sweating you knew he got it ...thanks for the video
I have done a fair number of cv joints, never had issues like this! Glad her grandpa came to my aid!
have to unbending the tabs with a flathead, couldve left rotir n caliper on
Was that dirt from Mars.. 😳 😬
LOL, not sure what you are referring to. Did this video about 300 videos ago. they all seem to mess together. If it is really important, let me know what time stamp in the video you noticed it! Thanks, Marty.
Did you really just push to get it back in with the clip?
Yep. You may have to do the same as pulling it out. Try turning it a 1/4 turn or so, then try to push it back in. If it doesn't work, try another 1/4 turn? It should easily snap back in.
@@unclemarksdiyauto Thank you so much! I’ll give that a try!
I just did one in an hour
Glad it worked easy for you, Michael. Not sure why we had such issues with this one. They usually go fairy easy, like yours did, in about a hour.
@@unclemarksdiyautojust did the lower control arms and the strut assembly on both sides 40” breaker and it spun right off used just a flat head to lift it just enough you probably bent the tabs a little more with the first bigger screwdriver like i did with the driver side and the tierod end just use a inverted allen wrench socket and a pickle fork spreads the tierods and lower ball joints have to go through the same process
@@NAZFISHING928 I may have put a little more power into removing this one, but I had her grandpa helping so I was on my best behavior!
It doesn't look easy at all
This was the worst struggle I have ever had doing one of these, It is done now! Thanks for stopping by!