Mike, great video. It is nice to see what SHOULD happen when annual preventative maintenance is performed. When shops charge less than $100 for a pre season check, we know that most times this does not occur. Your video should be used as a training aid for new and seasoned techs.
Really good tips but I would suggest that when you remove the disconnect, place it on top of the disconnect box or somewhere you can easily see it. That's a positive guarantee that 240 has been disconnected. Putting it back into the box upside down does disconnect the 240, but maybe you forgot to actually take it out, or you put it back in right-side up, or you just took it in and out several times when checking the system and you can't remember is it in on or in off. Leaving it outside the box in plain sight leaves no room for speculation.
I hear ya. I do exactly that when I'm servicing or anything else, but with maintenance I started keeping them in flipped and just testing for power at the contactor before moving on to anything electrical, 1) because I don't want the handle to get wet from hosing off the coil and be wet when I put it back in, and 2) I don't want to risk losing it somehow or stepping on it or whatever by putting it far enough away from the work area to keep it dry.
Another excellent and informative video sir! I guarantee the local HVAC companies I’ve hired over the years to check my system never did even a quarter of the things you outlined in this video… 🤔. Thanks for posting! 👍
Almost always true. But just to be fair, most employers don't give these guys enough time to do it. These guys are run hard. A good tech will still get close, though.
Great video. I work for a small HVAC company in North East Ohio. I do a lot of maintenance. Currently very busy with AC maintenance. So we offer different levels of service (silver, gold and platinum). Platinum I will clean the evaporator coil with Calgon. Blower wheel pull and clean is an extra $125. Most maintenance I do is a silver which is condenser coil clean with water, pressure/temp check of refrigerant. Indoor temp split and all the electrical checks you described. This is just the way it is at the company I work at.
My guy Mike !! Excellent video, very thourough and detailed. Your content is extremely good, keep doing your thing. Hands down one of the best hvac channels on here by far 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼✌🏼✌🏼
Excellent video. Thanks for such a detailed process. Wish more people were so thorough. Also thanks for correction on amps vs ohms. Was driving me crazy, lol. Thanks!
Hey Jersey, great video as always! I love the in depth content and explanation. A job well done. I really appreciate your videos. They are very helpful!!
AM I BEING DIFFICULT ASK MY MAINTENANCE GUY FOR A CONCISE REPORT OF HIS FINDINGS / MEASUREMENTS? This is a beautiful, informed, and clear video. Thank you for sharing. I've long, clear understanding of all the procedures you described, except for using the gages. We have been highly satisfied with our installation and annual maintenance, but it's been more than 20 years. Understanding the usable life could be running out, we want to know the paid maintenance is optimal.
We put all of our readings right on the maintenance invoice. It's not too much to ask. Old system an R-22 system? I would say at this point it's time to mull over whether a significant repair would be worth it at all at this point vs. a new unit. Leakey evap coils are so commonly the reason a lot of these older systems end up getting replaced, and if it's R-22, you're probably going to have to consider both a coil and condenser upgrade to 410A at the least. If you're likely to opt for getting a newer unit when the next repair comes, I would say just clean the coils off with water, keep the filters really clean and flush out the drain lines once in a while and just leave it at that until the time to replace comes.
Jersey Mike, when you're done fixin the ac, fix me up a nice #13 Italian would ya? Heavy on the prosciuttini and cappacuolo, capiche? Sorry...couldn't help myself..:)
Just drain the capacitor with a multimeter (measuring AC voltage) - quick, easy, and safe… Just my two cents, but I am also one of the few that wears CAT 2 rated PPE and EH rated boots stepping out of the house for any work no matter how trivial; and probably the only one with a CAT 4 Arc Flash suit in their truck as well…
I tried to test this. I charged a capacitor with a 12v battery, then set the meter to Volts DC and watched it drain. It was reeeeeally slow. Is this what I can expect in the field? Would it have made a difference if I set it to AC volts instead?
Unless it's a heat pump or there's an issue with cooling most people aren't gonna open up the evaporator coil on a furnace ac. It's 120 degrees in the attic so quick temp drop, blower inspection, and flushing the drain, that's about it. In my opinion I think paying for maintenance isn't really worth it unless you're extremely neglectful toward your system like not changing filters or throwing grass from the mower at the outdoor unit. Keep the filters changed and hose your unit off every so often. Granted a tech might catch something else before it can be a problem, but you could be paying for maintenance for several years before that happens.
Totally agree on the evap over the furnace situation. I don't do it unless the unit is older, the blower wheel is caked and the filter changing is obviously neglected. I'll call in for more time to do it then, but I also have the luxury of doing that. But for the evap on an AH, I always try to access it exactly because I know a lot of guys skip it.
Excellent and thorough! I have an 'N' evap coil at bottom of downflow stack with "dirty" side *directly* under heat exchanger (only ~1" gap), and "clean" side duct exiting down into difficult access in crawlspace. Aside from disconnecting line set and pulling the darn thing out, how do you cope with that as part of cleaning maintenance? Thanks!
I'll take a temperature differential reading before and after the coil, usually putting the "before coil" probe using the high limit switch hole inside of the furnace. Then I'll take an external static pressure reading (return and supply plenums). Both a high ext. static pressure and a temperature differential outside of 18-22 deg is a good indicator the coil may be dirty and restricting airflow. Frosting refrigerant lines and long cycles are other indicators.
Well I don't clean the evaporator coil as part of the check nor the blower assembly but your spot on with the rest. I would make corrections in the video not just write in a correction for the new guys. Doing all that how much are you charging for an air conditioning check?
Unfortunately, UA-cam doesn't allow those kinds of edits to videos. Sucks. As for the blower, I'll clean it off if it's just a light dusting, but pulling it is always extra. Around here the average for maintenance is about $150. Up from about $100 just 4 years ago.
Not that I know of. Different parts from different manufacturers can have different typical readings so its hard to come up with a 1 size fits all list.
Sad part is i never worked for a company that allowed the time to do a thorough maintenance. Which leads me to my question what would be a reasonable price to pay for something like this?
dont set multimeter to micro camps thats for small currents under an amp. if your looking for amps 1 or more set it to the proper setting range or risk frying. some meters have a plug saying 10 amps thats where you stick your negative lead into
On most flukes there are 2 expensive fuses you can fry when you flow more than the marked amps depending on milli or 10amp plug. Cheaper than a new meter though. Better than inserting your meter in series with the circuit is using a clamp on meter. Way less disturbing of the existing wiring and safer for you.
Just comes down to preference. There's no concrete data proving one method is better than the other. For me, I don't do maintenances often so removing the wires to perform the test isn't as bothersome as someone who might be doing these maintenances all day every day. I also don't like to rely on apps to process data for me, which you need for the load test. I'd rather see it on my meter. I also like to see how secure the wires are, look for corrosion all the way around the cap, etc. But that's just me.
Jersey Mike, thanks for the great turorial. Is there a way to determine whether my system is overcharged with refrigerant, without using a gauge set? Are there some signs to look for? Thank you.
Depends where you are. Metro NYC probably in the ballpark of $169 for residential, but it can vary a lot. Finding the right tech to do it is more important than the price though.
Like the world needs another UA-cam Technician. Rather than make these stupid videos start a non profit that gets poor people heating and cooling. Make our industry better not worse.
Most of the viewers on my channel are other techs who are learning. My videos are aimed at helping them be better technicians. I also help a lot of people for free. I'm not selling anything here. I don't ask people for money. I don't understand how that's making it worse.
@WhowereEpsteinsclients I'm curious why you didn't bother to reach out and ask if I would be interested in partaking in some non profit or charity you already have up and running. I likely would have been on board with that. This more or less bitter approach isn't working to make anything better in the world.
Excellent video. Thanks for such a detailed process. Wish more people were so thorough. Also thanks for correction on amps vs ohms. Was driving me crazy, lol. Thanks!
VIDEO CORRECTION: Set multimeter to AMPS not OHMS when checking blower motor draw in Air handler. @ 9:08
Thanks for the correction. Can we also use a megahom to check actual resistance?
Yes. Jumper Man Tech has a video on that here: ua-cam.com/video/tcidIecZR5c/v-deo.html
Electrical contractor here, great job this is the best preventative hvac maintanance video!!! Great job!
Thanks 👍
Mike, great video. It is nice to see what SHOULD happen when annual preventative maintenance is performed. When shops charge less than $100 for a pre season check, we know that most times this does not occur. Your video should be used as a training aid for new and seasoned techs.
Thanks. yeah, that's an issue. A lot of shops only give 60 minutes for these maintenances, so unfortunately, a lot gets skipped for time.
Really good tips but I would suggest that when you remove the disconnect, place it on top of the disconnect box or somewhere you can easily see it. That's a positive guarantee that 240 has been disconnected. Putting it back into the box upside down does disconnect the 240, but maybe you forgot to actually take it out, or you put it back in right-side up, or you just took it in and out several times when checking the system and you can't remember is it in on or in off. Leaving it outside the box in plain sight leaves no room for speculation.
I hear ya. I do exactly that when I'm servicing or anything else, but with maintenance I started keeping them in flipped and just testing for power at the contactor before moving on to anything electrical, 1) because I don't want the handle to get wet from hosing off the coil and be wet when I put it back in, and 2) I don't want to risk losing it somehow or stepping on it or whatever by putting it far enough away from the work area to keep it dry.
Another excellent and informative video sir! I guarantee the local HVAC companies I’ve hired over the years to check my system never did even a quarter of the things you outlined in this video… 🤔. Thanks for posting! 👍
Almost always true. But just to be fair, most employers don't give these guys enough time to do it. These guys are run hard. A good tech will still get close, though.
Very professional and comprehensive. Appreciate your work. Thank you.
Dude , love your video walk through for guys like me who are just getting started
Great video. I work for a small HVAC company in North East Ohio. I do a lot of maintenance. Currently very busy with AC maintenance. So we offer different levels of service (silver, gold and platinum). Platinum I will clean the evaporator coil with Calgon. Blower wheel pull and clean is an extra $125. Most maintenance I do is a silver which is condenser coil clean with water, pressure/temp check of refrigerant. Indoor temp split and all the electrical checks you described. This is just the way it is at the company I work at.
First I've heard of tiered maintenance options like that, but I like the idea.
What are the prices for silver, gold, and platinum?
Thanks Mike. My understanding is that self discharging capacitors have a small diode going across 2 terminals.
My guy Mike !! Excellent video, very thourough and detailed. Your content is extremely good, keep doing your thing. Hands down one of the best hvac channels on here by far 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼✌🏼✌🏼
Thank you, brother. Much respect.
Shiny fins👍🏽
Hands down the best videos for HVAC you will find. Keep them coming maestro!
I had to subscribe because this was by far the BEST video I have found on A/C servicing. Thank you for sharing .
Thank you.
Excellent explanation. Great job. Thank you
Excellent video with detail description
Excellent video. Thanks for such a detailed process. Wish more people were so thorough. Also thanks for correction on amps vs ohms. Was driving me crazy, lol. Thanks!
Hey Jersey, great video as always! I love the in depth content and explanation. A job well done. I really appreciate your videos. They are very helpful!!
Awesome! Thank you!
Great video Mike , thank you
Very welcome
Great Videos Mike
Thanks!
Thanks Mike for device PM 👍 you are professional of the hvac :
Nicely done.
Amazing explanation brother. Thank you. Perfect video to forward to the next guy
Very helpful
Thanks
Definitely did👍 Thanks Mike for the good advice.
Great video Mike. Thank you for the knowledge.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Excellent video. Good info. Thanks for sharing.
AM I BEING DIFFICULT ASK MY MAINTENANCE GUY FOR A CONCISE REPORT OF HIS FINDINGS / MEASUREMENTS?
This is a beautiful, informed, and clear video. Thank you for sharing. I've long, clear understanding of all the procedures you described, except for using the gages.
We have been highly satisfied with our installation and annual maintenance, but it's been more than 20 years. Understanding the usable life could be running out, we want to know the paid maintenance is optimal.
We put all of our readings right on the maintenance invoice. It's not too much to ask.
Old system an R-22 system? I would say at this point it's time to mull over whether a significant repair would be worth it at all at this point vs. a new unit. Leakey evap coils are so commonly the reason a lot of these older systems end up getting replaced, and if it's R-22, you're probably going to have to consider both a coil and condenser upgrade to 410A at the least.
If you're likely to opt for getting a newer unit when the next repair comes, I would say just clean the coils off with water, keep the filters really clean and flush out the drain lines once in a while and just leave it at that until the time to replace comes.
Thanks Mike you really top hvac sir
Thank you.
Great job . Very helpful
best !!!
Jersey Mike, when you're done fixin the ac, fix me up a nice #13 Italian would ya? Heavy on the prosciuttini and cappacuolo, capiche? Sorry...couldn't help myself..:)
Aaayyy. Oh. Fughettaboutit.
Great video, brotha. Spot on
thank you, very good info
Haha yeah take them jumpers off and you cant polish a turd (old units ) mike 😂😂 Great work mike starting following you i like you content brother 👍
Just drain the capacitor with a multimeter (measuring AC voltage) - quick, easy, and safe… Just my two cents, but I am also one of the few that wears CAT 2 rated PPE and EH rated boots stepping out of the house for any work no matter how trivial; and probably the only one with a CAT 4 Arc Flash suit in their truck as well…
I have an arc flash suit as well, just not on the truck.
I tried to test this. I charged a capacitor with a 12v battery, then set the meter to Volts DC and watched it drain. It was reeeeeally slow. Is this what I can expect in the field? Would it have made a difference if I set it to AC volts instead?
great video🔥
Unless it's a heat pump or there's an issue with cooling most people aren't gonna open up the evaporator coil on a furnace ac. It's 120 degrees in the attic so quick temp drop, blower inspection, and flushing the drain, that's about it. In my opinion I think paying for maintenance isn't really worth it unless you're extremely neglectful toward your system like not changing filters or throwing grass from the mower at the outdoor unit. Keep the filters changed and hose your unit off every so often. Granted a tech might catch something else before it can be a problem, but you could be paying for maintenance for several years before that happens.
Totally agree on the evap over the furnace situation. I don't do it unless the unit is older, the blower wheel is caked and the filter changing is obviously neglected. I'll call in for more time to do it then, but I also have the luxury of doing that. But for the evap on an AH, I always try to access it exactly because I know a lot of guys skip it.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC True. If I see a coil over 10 years old better believe I'm popping the leak detector on it just to check. 😂
Very good video!!!
You go further than me lol. One question why don’t you check capacitor under load?
With the math involved in doing it like that, I feel like it's just faster to pull the wires off.
Excellent and thorough! I have an 'N' evap coil at bottom of downflow stack with "dirty" side *directly* under heat exchanger (only ~1" gap), and "clean" side duct exiting down into difficult access in crawlspace. Aside from disconnecting line set and pulling the darn thing out, how do you cope with that as part of cleaning maintenance? Thanks!
I'll take a temperature differential reading before and after the coil, usually putting the "before coil" probe using the high limit switch hole inside of the furnace. Then I'll take an external static pressure reading (return and supply plenums). Both a high ext. static pressure and a temperature differential outside of 18-22 deg is a good indicator the coil may be dirty and restricting airflow.
Frosting refrigerant lines and long cycles are other indicators.
Thats nice when you don’t have a company that gives you one hour per system
Yup. Just said the same thing in another comment.
Well I don't clean the evaporator coil as part of the check nor the blower assembly but your spot on with the rest. I would make corrections in the video not just write in a correction for the new guys. Doing all that how much are you charging for an air conditioning check?
Unfortunately, UA-cam doesn't allow those kinds of edits to videos. Sucks. As for the blower, I'll clean it off if it's just a light dusting, but pulling it is always extra. Around here the average for maintenance is about $150. Up from about $100 just 4 years ago.
Mike, great video. Do you have or know of a simple one page checklist that has all these checks and their typical readings?
Not that I know of. Different parts from different manufacturers can have different typical readings so its hard to come up with a 1 size fits all list.
Sad part is i never worked for a company that allowed the time to do a thorough maintenance. Which leads me to my question what would be a reasonable price to pay for something like this?
I do a 90 minute maintenance for $169.
Hey bro, great video. If you are going to use other channels footage, please check with them first. Good way to get a copyright strike.
Thanks man
Sure. Sorry about that. I can cut that part out if you'd like me to. Or I can link to your video. Just let me know.
dont set multimeter to micro camps thats for small currents under an amp. if your looking for amps 1 or more set it to the proper setting range or risk frying. some meters have a plug saying 10 amps thats where you stick your negative lead into
On most flukes there are 2 expensive fuses you can fry when you flow more than the marked amps depending on milli or 10amp plug. Cheaper than a new meter though. Better than inserting your meter in series with the circuit is using a clamp on meter. Way less disturbing of the existing wiring and safer for you.
If everthing is alright what would be the temperature out of ur air coming out of the register . 45, 55, 60
It's a moving target and changes with ambient temperatures. But generally it will be 18-22 degrees below room temp.
Is there a best practice for testing the dual run capacitor on condensor? Testing static with unit off and wires removed vs under load capacitor test?
Just comes down to preference. There's no concrete data proving one method is better than the other. For me, I don't do maintenances often so removing the wires to perform the test isn't as bothersome as someone who might be doing these maintenances all day every day. I also don't like to rely on apps to process data for me, which you need for the load test. I'd rather see it on my meter. I also like to see how secure the wires are, look for corrosion all the way around the cap, etc.
But that's just me.
@JerseyMikeHVAC great feedback, thank you for your perspective.
Jersey Mike, thanks for the great turorial.
Is there a way to determine whether my system is overcharged with refrigerant, without using a gauge set? Are there some signs to look for?
Thank you.
www.townsendtotalenergy.com/overcharged-ac-symptoms
How do you a split up flow???
Cleaning an A coil
A lot of disassembly, particularly on furnaces. But sometimes you get lucky by just removing a few screws to remove the front panel.
Whats the cost of this kind of maintence?
Depends where you are. Metro NYC probably in the ballpark of $169 for residential, but it can vary a lot. Finding the right tech to do it is more important than the price though.
Do you have capacitor outside on ac unit and inside on blower motor ?
Yes, but not all blower motors on the indoor units have them.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC can you buy these and save them so when they go bad you have one on hand ? If yes than how long can they just sit on shelf?
@@mikimiki195 Sure. We keep them on the trucks for stock. They'll last a long while.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC thank you 🙏🏻
Take the duct off? Haha! No. That's not a maintenance. That's a bunch of extra work. With a bunch of extra cost.
With most install jobs I've seen out there, it's only like 3 screws.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC that's pretty bad. Most of the ones I see are sealed with mastic and silver tape. I'm down in Tampa, fl
@conservativerepublic7224 Yeah Ill leave it alone if it's a mastic seam and there's no other way.
I agree with checking the dirty side of the evaporator coil. The house I bought was a rental run with no filter for 10 years it was filthy.
Like the world needs another UA-cam Technician. Rather than make these stupid videos start a non profit that gets poor people heating and cooling. Make our industry better not worse.
Most of the viewers on my channel are other techs who are learning. My videos are aimed at helping them be better technicians. I also help a lot of people for free. I'm not selling anything here. I don't ask people for money. I don't understand how that's making it worse.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC You are dime a dozen bro. Do something in the industry. All you are doing is making videos for hacks.
@WhowereEpsteinsclients I'm curious why you didn't bother to reach out and ask if I would be interested in partaking in some non profit or charity you already have up and running. I likely would have been on board with that. This more or less bitter approach isn't working to make anything better in the world.
You sound like a mikey pipes fan 😂😂
@@oilandfireguy1739 Cant stand that yankee loud mouth.
THANKS 🤟😎
Excellent video. Thanks for such a detailed process. Wish more people were so thorough. Also thanks for correction on amps vs ohms. Was driving me crazy, lol. Thanks!