I just love the community here. The comment section is always as informative as the video! Thanks Scott for creating a space where we can all come together and learn and grow! Pun entirely intended lol.
Hi Scott. I have had my soil blockers for years and love them. When I start my seeds, I become a "helicopter" gardener, and start to watch for sprouting as soon as the next day. (It can happen!) With access to the sides of the block, it's easy to monitor moisture levels and I use a pipette to carefully water them. I think the soil blocks make it possible for me to be more in tune with what I'm growing. I have even started carrots in the mini-blocks. They get transplanted the day I see the seed case starting to open up. The carrots don't seem to suffer in the slightest, and I think the compost in my mix helps with moisture retention. These practices are probably way too fussy and ka-fiddly for some, but for me, I enjoy that closer connection with my plants, made possible by a simple expression mold.
I tried soil blocks last year. Did not have good luck with them. I learned a lot from this video and will try again. The small ones are finicky. Mine would dry out when I was at work and if I watered too much, they just melted. The cardboard is a great idea. Misting also helps. I am home all day now and can give them more attention. I will try your soil recipe. Thanks GS!
Thank you, gardener Scott. As usual, clear and to the point. As far as the price, I think it's well worth it, considering how the prices for the plastic pots rocketed in the last year. The 4" one is a bit too much, but the 1" and the 2" are not too bad if they last for years to come, especially for my 2 acres garden. The time saved alone and the convenience will justify it for me. I'm buying these. I bought the Mini and the 1" dibbles... for now :)
Very nice tutorial on making blocks. I understand the advantages of the soil block method, but it is hard to ditch the ease of just filling a starter tray. Everyone says that plants get root bound, and I understand that. But I think it depends on the plant if they recover or not. I took a root bound pepper plant that was about 12 inches tall and planted it in a hanging planter. Two days later I thought, man I should have unbound the roots before I planted. So I pulled it up and it was beautiful. In two days it had already grown about 30 roots in all directions. So I just replanted it. So I think it probably depends on what type of plant it is. I think peppers and tomatoes will recover quickly on their own.
If one can build a sand castle then one can do this on the cheap with any mold or cup. Great knowledge in the video. I will never stop listening and learning.
Hi Scott, I have been making 2 inch soil blocks for 4 years now just using miracle grow potting mix ( Boy I can crank them out). It is working great until this year . My wife recently bought me the 4 inch one. The mix now does not work well. I added a manure humus mix still not there but getting closer. I’m looking forward to trying your mix when the stores open again. I have no compost to add . I have been gardening for about 15 years . I think I-have made most of the big mistakes like adding to much potash to the soil . Boy that was hard to bring the ph back . Lots of miss information out there. I also do my own soil testing with a kit I know I should have it done by an extension office but it has been working well for me . It takes awhile to do all the tests. Thanks for taking the time to do your channel . Thats a-lot of work just in it’s self . It is truly appreciated. All the best. Dean
Brilliant video! So clear and easy to follow. Lot of good gardening channels on UA-cam that I enjoy, but I think this is the best of all of them. Thank you, sir, for sharing your knowledge. 👍🏼
liked and subscribed. This will be my 3rd season using soil blocks and I finally got the soil block kit from Amazon that you're demonstrating here. Until now I've used a 1"i.d. PVC pipe with a 1" wooden dowel to make round blocks one at a time. This works in a pinch, but it takes me 30+ minutes to fill a tray. These blockers are much easier. Thank you for the tip about the cardboard. That is genius. Some of my blocks around the edge always fall apart, but they won't this year. Thank you!
I use toilet paper rolls, cut in half, then fill & press the soil mix down in them. Then use a piece of dowel rod or something similar to make the holes in centers.
Hey Scott, great video. We've been using soil blocks for over 6 years but we had one issue with them as we expanded the amount of plants we grow. In the spring when its warm enough to keep seedlings out 24 hours a day we noticed that rain will destroy the blocks if not kept safe. When we were doing a few 1020 trays it wasn't an issue but last year we had 400+ plants and it was a real chore to run outside and bring the rolling kitchen racks into the garage. This year we're going to try the newish bootstrapfarmer air pruning trays. Soil blocks will always have a place in my heart but unless we could get a larger greenhouse with automatic fans we have to try other methods here.
@@s9josh778 This is a great question. For us we went back to the soilblocks. I was gifted the 4in blocker in the summer and love it. If we are going to give away seedlings or say tomatoes with 6 branches we will up pot into the 5in BSF air prune pots. What is hard is to make sure the people we are giving the plants to return the pots, 4packs or 6packs (they are pricey). My issue with the BSF air prune "plugs" was that it was harder to see when they needed to be watered. Soil blocks are quite simple and when they dry out a bit you can pick them up easily and feel the weight. It did solve the issue with rain, we don't like to baby our seedlings and live to have them out in the elements to strengthen. The 4/6 packs helped that. I don't want to leave the soil blocks in the greenhouse until they are ready to go into the ground without exposing them to the elements. What I have noticed over the years is that once the soil blocks become packed with roots you can overhead water right on the plants at a decent height and not have them fall apart but that method you need to use draining 1020 trays. All in all I'd say they are great for people that don't want to make soil blocks. We do still use the BSF air prune 72 cell trays for mass plantings or things like flowers and milkweed. We have started making the 20 block soil blocks and transplanting into the 2in blocks but seeding several hundred flower seeds it just easier with the 72 cell BSF air prune trays. Let me know if you have any other questions.
sorry sometimes I get on writing and don't reread it. The 4 packs and 6 pack inserts for a 1020 tray make it super easy to leave plants out almost in any weather without having the soil fall apart. The bootstrap farmer packs do have some air pruning but nothing like soil blocks where the roots just explode out of the sides and bottom. But like I said I probably wont use the 4 pack and 6 pack inserts for much other than mass plantings. @@s9josh778
Just yesterday I ordered the smallest blocker, 3/4" x 3/4" so your video has been so helpful. My plan is to germinate/start my flowers seeds in the soil blocks but then will move them up into plastic containers (already have from last year) so that I have sizeable transplants ready for my shorter growing season. This will also allow me to still give plants away to my friends. Will be using your simplified soil recipe as I appreciate that it minimizes the number of amendments that I need to purchase. Just subbed and look forward to learning more about gardening from you!
Gardener Scott, love the channel sir. I decided to plant some veggies of my own because with the situation in the world today who knows how long the grocery stores will stay open. IV been listening to your channel while I plant some tomatoes, corn, carrots and lettuce. Good stuff man, very informative. Ps. I'm using peat moss !👍👍 Lol
Thanks for the video! I bought the friskar soil blocker for $6 which makes one large block or four small. Works great and so much cheaper than those on Amazon.
Gardener Scott is like having a Professor of gardening give you a 1 on 1 first class education on all aspects of growing plants... Thank You Sir for these videos...
We started a worn bin in January '19. Now we have a good 'free' supply of castings. Have started some saved onion seed in straight castings, but will make a mix with perlite, coco coir, blood meal & castings. All the gardeners getting seeds started will surely bring spring sooner. :)
Thank you for this video Gardener Scott. I have been enjoying going through your videos. I recently got back into gardening and things have sure changed in 20 years. I got me a soil blocker, the larger one you are showing and have decided to use your recipe as I have everything bu the bone meal. A question I have is Why would you feel the need to use the smaller one first. Seems like an extra step. Again, thank you for your generosity and kindness.
The smaller one allows you to start more seeds in a small space and then transplant them to pots or outside. You can definitely start with a bigger blocker if you have more space or start fewer plants.
Agree w Gardener Scott. And I was thinking that using the small blocks saves you from wasting soil on the big blocks by ensuring that the seeds actually germinated.
I use paper cups. I cut an X in the bottom of the cup, that way the roots can grow from the bottom of the pot. Then I set the cups wherever I need them and the plant is not bothered. Most of the paper is decomposed as the season progresses.
Pro tip: In case you want to try using soil blocks before investing in a soil block maker, you can easily diy one. I first started out with a single one made out of a small pice of square leftover plastic tube and a piece of fitting wood with a non level screw at the end for the indent. Of course you can also use round things like small pipe leftovers and a fitting stick. A public broadcasting program in my country even made one out of LEGO :D So get creative! I have since upgraded to a metal made block maker for convenience, but just saying that most people should be able to try it out for free or next to free before investing.
I will make my soil block with my brownie silicone mold. Lol.. It will be easy and cheap and I believe I will have the same result, just compress the soil in the mold and then flip and get a block, and just press in the middle and become a hole.. Easy, easy...
I have found that woth cardboard, you can grind it in the osterizer, and make a fair too good moldable mass, I tried it once so you are going to light my bulb, lady.
Made mine with a used vitamin D bottle for the tube with a plunger made from a discarded prescription bottle. For the planting depression, I Super Glued on a nut. It's just under 2'', but a cylinder (of course). It works. Thinking of making a smaller one, for lettuce, chards, etc, to save money on starting mix.
I tried TP rolls last year, because they are cylindrical, they not as space economical as cubes; also to collect enough of them someone needs to have a family of 6 to 8; otherwise it would take a couple of months to collect. I tried cutting them in two and 3 equal parts. Cutting in two worked better than 3. Once a TP roll cut, it may not stay intact for long enough, since the TP roll made from spiral paper. I found the process too intensive>
@@georgeelmerdenbrough6906 News print is generally made from trees grown specifically for that purpose. As the trees are harvested and made into paper, new trees are planted. Old growth forest is not used for paper.
I recommend buying soil blockers from Johnny's Seeds, an excellent Maine company. (I have no affiliation with the company; I've become a faithful customer because of the quality of their products and timeliness of their shipments.)
I found an older steel 2x2” blocker at an antique store today for cheap. I have a bunch of Hoss trays but have been wanting to try these. They look great! I am excited to see how they work out.
Great video. I use coir that comes in a block so no big pieces. I use vermiculite and sifted garden compost. Last year I added some sifted leaf mould. I haven’t added bone meal but may try that this year. I add mosquito dunks to the water in my watering can when I bottom water to deal with any fungus gnats.
I did come across feathermeal, greensand, cottonseed meal and it was a NW company--name? However it is also in the Kellogg brand fertilizer and I will be trying that this year. I have also used mainly blood and bonemeal in the past few years with great results. I have read people using their own compost or soil, but concerned about fungus dampening off all the seeds.
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I have a kind of a large garden, I am going into my own food production and food selling, here in Guatemala, I expect to have employees for 2022, so I am going to grab my popcorn (literally), and I am going to take note......
Very good and interesting. Just wondering, after transplanting seedlings from small plastic sections into my 4 and 5" cups, if the potting mix would stay together if the cups are removed after a couple of weeks. Seems like a good excuse to plant a few extra seeds!
If you use web trays and/or soil block trays instead of regular 1020 trays and/or cardboard, the roots will air prune on the bottom as well as the sides.
A good, clear video on soil blocks.. I use all peat instead of adding coir, since peat seems to hold the moisture better for me and moisture is a key to getting these to work. I have used them extensively, and I find them especially helpful for herbs by starting with the small cubes and moving them up. I have used the 4-inch blocks, but they simply get too heavy and awkward to handle. I move the 2-inch blocks into 3- or 4-inch pots as they mature instead. I love greensand as a soil amendment, but I don't think it adds much to the blocks ,
I've haven't used soil blocks but the two micro scale farms I go to use it in their recipes. The other variables in your mix/growing conditions could be offsetting any gains you'd get with green sand. Gotta love it when you get the same results as others with less resources spent.
Hello Scott, I recently bought a set of blockers and overall I am happy with them. I had to use what I had on hand for the mix. Unfortunately that was potting soil. Fortunately I also had coir and vermiculite. The blocks came out OK and were quite sturdy. However I found that delicate seeds like onions and strawberries could not penetrate the top of the micro blocks and as such would start to germinate on top of the soil instead of inside them. Larger seeds like squash seems to do OK. Would you say the failure to root was the potting soil? I helped them along with a chopstick and manually placed the seedlings root side down inside them and now they seem to do very well. For the base i used an old tea towel and a mason jar to create a makeshift capillary mat. This part seems to work amazingly well! The higher I place the jar, the more water it dispenses, so I can fully control the moisture.
Yes, I would guess it is the potting soil. It tends to be chunky and denser than a seed starting mix or soil block made primarily of peat so the little roots have trouble growing in it. I like the idea of capillary watering.
As you were showing how the smaller blocks fit into the bigger blocks, my mind went back to rockwool cubes... same concept... but used for hydroponic systems.
hey Gardner Scott!! Could I take cardboard strips and cut little slats in them and make criss cross grids out of them? Very similar to the dividers you might find in a storage box for your Christmas ornaments! I could use a thin cardboard like from a cereal box or any cardboard really and just fill them with soil down in a tray and they would help wick up the water in between the blocks. I don't think I would get the same air pruning benefit, but the bottom being open I don't see any root rot or binding. Thoughts?
I did the cost comparison "Jiffy" Vs "144 Cells 1"x1" + regular cheap soil" It cost me 0.50$ (cdn) of cheap potting soil for 144 seed cells (1" x 1" ) with my setup.. Jiffy cost 2x20.00$ = 40$/144 cells first year Jiffy cost 2x6.50$ = 13$/144 celles every year for new plugs My setup: First year: 21$ +0.50$ soil Next year: 0.50$ for the soil Every years after, my setup is 26 times cheaper! And I have more control on the environment, the plastic is durable, etc. If one container is damaged, you still have 11 containers that are working fine. With Jiffy, the plastic is very thin and prone to premature failure. If you have a hole in your large 72 Jiffy system, you have to throw it away and buy again. I use 12 pk of 12cell mini green house for 21$ (all prices in Canadian, shipping incl, without txs).
I have these soil blockers last year and have struggled with the right mix. Thank you for sharing yours and showing moisture content. Taking practice for me to get that right. ;) Will be trying out your recipe this week. And the cardboard is a great idea! One thing I say from a greenhouse grower is they use small leftover trays from buying meats. They work well also. Question... I also heard I should use boiling water when wetting my soil to kill any bug eggs that may be in the potting soils (if using), any thoughts on that for indoor seedling starts? I've previously had gnat issues with indoor plants while using a well known premix but was told they all do no matter what. Thank you again for sharing another great video!
It definitely takes time to get it right and I'm still learning how to do that too. I make my own mix from peat and bagged compost partly because I don't have to worry about eggs in the mix. I've never had a problem with insect eggs. Potting soils from big brands should be sterilized already, so there shouldn't be any eggs. If you're using homemade compost, you can attempt to sterilize it with boiling water, but then you'll be killing beneficial bacteria too. The gnats will happen on any mix; they're always around. By allowing the surface of the soil to dry slightly it should reduce them a lot.
@@GardenerScott Thank you! This year, after 30 some years gardening, was the first time I had heard to boil the water for pre-made starter mix. I guess it couldn't hurt. I don't use my garden compost for seed starting, (maybe I should), only when I pot up for selling, but going to start a worm farm so maybe I would use that. Thank you again for taking the time to answer!
I really find the cardboard helps with watering so the blocks don't dissolve in the water, and it helps moderate the moisture. I appreciate you sharing that you have a blocker. Thanks.
Interesting video. QUESTION: While I'm guessing that seed size determines which size block you make....why do you plant first in the small 1" blocks and transfer them to the larger block? Is there a difference if you just planted that seed directly into the big block? Beginner gardener and I appreciate any feedback.
Good question, Tanya. You are right that the size of the seed, and resulting plant, determines the block size. For most plants that start small and stay small for awhile, a small block is fine. For plants that start big, like cucumbers and squash, the bigger block is best for starting. One of the reasons for starting with small blocks is for the number of seeds you can sow; if you have the space to grow a lot of plants, you can start with many seedlings under lights in small blocks, and then transplant to bigger blocks and grow those is a greenhouse or other light room. Also, if germination rates are low, you've only used a small amount of soil in a small space and not wasted a lot of soil and space because of a big block/pot. And, many plants do better when transplanted into ever-bigger pots/blocks as the grow (like tomatoes). You can sow small seeds directly into the bigger blocks, but a main argument against that is it is more difficult to maintain the proper soil moisture level in big blocks/pots when seedlings are small. As the seedlings grow you need to continue to water them; it takes a lot less water to keep a small block moist than a big block. Also, very young seedlings need loose soil, with plenty of air, for their roots and a big block tends to be denser. If you're just growing a few plants, don't have a space concern, and planning to put them directly in the garden, starting with the bigger blocks is just fine.
I might try this method as an experiment, but I already have pretty good results using drinking cups with holes drilled in the bottom. I use cups ranging from 9 ounce to 24 ounce.
They don't look that expensive to me for the money that you're going to save in the long run. Though I have to admit the 4-inch blocker kind of gave me a start It was a bit much. I've seen a couple of other growers on UA-cam use these. They are very interesting.
Eliot Coleman at one point recommended/suggested making your own 4'' block maker out of the bottom half of a quart container. Drilled a hole in the middle bottom, put a wide screw through it and a washer and bolt on other side to hold it in place. Downsides are the block isn't as perfect, sometimes it doesn't work, when you flip it over you have to kinda bang it out a couple times on the flat surface to get it to come out as you have no plunger. Also, I think the hole wouldn't be exactly the right size unless you made a small wood block that fits onto the end of the screw (possible with a little bit of woodworking and trial and error). Another alternative I've seen a no-till farmer do (Jesse over at no-till growers youtube channel) is just 'pot up' the seedling by taking it and forming a ball of the wet mix around the seedling. So he had these soil balls basically the same approx size, maybe bigger and just shapes them by hand with the live 2'' seedling.
imo you aren't saving much money. . they cost $44 each just for the 2" ones when I could just buy 3x30l fabric pots, some rootit propogation sponges and the growing medium I'll be using for 105 in total, using the soil blockers just doesn't seem practical for the price when I could buy everything I need for a good grow for 105 and not have to waste time making a soil mix to put in the soil blocker, I can just put my seed straight into the rootit sponge, let it grow until roots emerge from the bottom and transplant it to a 5l fabric pot and then put the 5l pot straight into whatever pot would come next without the worry of my soil block crumbling to pieces
I found that I could make better blocks by filling the block maker with soil and then turning it over and pressing additional soil in with my fingers. I get firmer soil in the block because I can squeeze the block maker between my palm and fingers on the soil. The blocks are more durable this way and I have fewer that crumble. I'm using the 2 inch block maker.
An old farmer in my area, as I recall, makes his formula using dry (bagged) Dog food, unscented kitty litter, peat moss, 1 part local soil, shredded news paper and worm castings. Personally, I use zero animal products (other than worms and their castings) due to pathogens in the blood and bone or feather meal which I don't want in my garden, so I leave them out, including the dog food. Vegan Organic Dog Food is expensive, so not for me. But I do add a handful of Epsom salt (Magnesium Sulfate). So, my recipe is: 1/4 peat, 1/4 compost mixed with black top soil, 2 handfuls of Epsom salt, 1/4 bagged unscented Kitty litter (unused, dry... $3 or less at the grocery) and 1/4 worm castings. I believe this formula will grow anything. If you want feather meal, just buy Miracle-Gro products. Read the ingredient list and on every bag I examined, in fine print, it says 'poultry litter, including feathers'.
I like the idea of vermiculite instead of perlite to hold moisture. What about using Biochar instead of either. My assumption is that I would need to soak it for a while first and add extra nutrients while soaking in order to charge the Biochar. I welcome any advice here. I got soil blocker for Christmas so I plan to start testing soon. Love your channel Merry Christmas
I've begun adding charged biochar more often in my potting soil mixes. In a handful of tests I did a few years ago, I didn't see an advantage to using biochar in seed starter mixes. For the initial soil block a peat blend is fine. For bigger blocks and transplanting, biochar is a viable option. I'd be interested to hear of your experience if you try it.
Sorry I have to stop halfway through to make a comment. I think it's seems like a brilliant idea. I would not go wild on the nutes or worm compost in the soil block I could do more harm then help in the early stage of the plants life. The airation of the roots and moisture control should be improved compared to a pot. I'm going to try this now but with a small pot or a seedling tray as a mold and try to press the block out without using a machine.
What type of vermiculite do you use? Course, medium, or fine? Also how do you label these with what plant each is? Usually I just stick the label into the back of the plastic cells but these seem like they would be difficult to label without them falling apart when you stick in the label.
Hi. From what I’ve learned Peat Moss is NOT a sustainable resource. Here in Europe (UK) it certainly isn’t sustainable. Pear takes thousands of years to be laid down. It would be helpful if you would include alternatives to Peat in your videos please. Thanks for your videos, they are very helpful.
You're right and that's why I mention it in the video. There are many European countries where it is illegal to harvest peat because it is not sustainable. In Russia and Canada, they are actively working to keep it sustainable. Thanks. I will add more alternatives when I can.
Hello, I know this sounds silly but can clean shed hair (from your brush) or cotton thread be used as the "fibrous material used to hold the block together? I believe that both of these will break down.
@@GardenerScott THANK YOU SO MUCH for that question and answer!!!! I've been look at the block vibe lately... I did calculation and it is marginally cheaper than Jiffy method, but way more expensive than regular seed tray + small pots... Old fashion is still the best so far!
I definitely want to go this way next season. As I want to avoid plastic and pot bound plants. I sell seedlings and wonder how my customers will carry them home?
instead of using these use fabric pots, they're a much better option and are cheaper upfront [though more expensive if you factor in growing medium], the roots grow through the pot and get pruned by the air so the plant being root bound is much less likely, it might cost more to do in total if you factor in the medium used and the price of the fabric pots, but fabric pots are cheap anyways and the growing medium I use costs $50 for 100 litres, they also wont fall apart when customers try to carry them home, generally most fabric pots depending on size will have handles as well so it can make it easier to carry your pots [mine are 16l fabric pots and they have handles] but I think you should have pot risers under the fabric pots so air can get under the plant as well
As I show in the video, I water from below with an occasional spray of water. By using material like peat or coir it helps hold the block together. If you pour water on the blocks they can dissolve.
Hello Scott Did I really like what you’re saying but I do have a question I was recommended use seasol seaweed solution And coir And parting soil. That have bought stuff that going to use but I’m not sure if work and not sure of the measurements that would need to use it, should I try it or I should followed your recipe ideas instead. As you can tell I’m very worried because I am a beginner and gardening and not sure they’re working every time I have tried things before they have died . I have to use the polite because I prefer the other one VERMICULITE. I have nobody really to talk to about these questions because I don’t know very many people there Gardens.? Can you recipe work for both normal in the garden and as well as the block cubes? Due to the fact that I’m living in a climate right now that is really hot and has been in drought for awhile. Also looking into hydroponics.
This recipe is best for soil blocks. I do it differently for potting and transplanting plants. Here's my video telling about that: ua-cam.com/video/yOO1y73GbeU/v-deo.html Keep trying new things and see what you like best.
I have found that in soil mixes it can get crazy sometimes and is totally a personal thing. It seems to me that people believe that the harder it is to get a material the better it is or somehow it will have magical properties. I am not totally sure what it is but I believe local is the best no matter what it is. Local microbes and fungi would have to be better than using something that has a different make-up to your local dirt. That is purely my opinion I have no real evidence to back it up besides my own experience and in my experience simple is ALWAYS better.
I like the idea of soil blocks. But in practice I think that a soil blocker would sit unused on my potting bench. I wouldn't want to mess around to get the mix right, and I think pots would be easier to move around. Also when it comes to the garden, I'm cheap. I try to avoid buying anything. If I was going to use soil blocks, I think I'd have to find a way to make them for free.
I tend to agree with you. I've had blockers for years and still prefer to use pots. You can use tin cans, milk cartons and similar containers as blockers if you want to experiment.
Where can I buy replacement seed pins or seed dibblers for the soil blocker? Are they universal for all brands, or do you need to purchase a Ladbrooke for a Ladbrooke brand? Thank you :)
Hi Scott, I have a couple of questions because I am new to soil blocks. Why don't you use lime in your recipe? Is it because the soil you add is alkaline already( Like mine)? Also, do you find that diseases such as pythium, etc. are not a problem? I was wondering about using this technique without a sterilized medium. Thanks, Kim
Hi, Kim. Good questions. I don't add lime because it adds extra expense and effort and the plants will only be in the blocks for a short period, too short for the pH to have a big effect. Most retail seed starter mixes are peat based with no added lime for the same reason. For long-term transplanting into pots, added lime or extra compost in the planting mix can moderate the pH. When I put the blocks in my alkaline soil garden the peat balances the pH in that spot a little bit, and I don't want any added lime to make my soil pH worse. I haven't had a problem with pythium or any other diseases because I'm using store-bought, sterile peat and compost. If I use my own compost in mixes I do make extra effort to keep moisture levels on the dry side, hopefully to reduce damping off problems. Soggy, humid conditions in unsterilized media can cause the root rot issues so good airflow and moisture control is critical.
Jim just use a wet toothpick, pick up one seed and drop in. Never found a reason to cover the seed anymore. Just move the toothpick around a tad. Hope this helps
Thanks a lot for that very informative tutorial. I saw another video where a guy says he doesn't have to harden them off - do you take the time to harden yours off or not?
I always try to harden off. When it comes time to plant, my days are hot and nights are cold. Add in a lot of wind and it can be harsh on plants that were used to living indoors.
I always try to harden off. When it comes time to plant, my days are hot and nights are cold. Add in a lot of wind and it can be harsh on plants that were used to living indoors.
@@GardenerScott thanks for letting me know - this year is unique, but in general I'm gone a lot and so can't really harden things off in the right way. I'm experimenting with winter sowing this year - we'll see how that goes.
Hi, Mary. As I mention briefly in the video, water around the edges so the blocks can absorb the water. I'll also use a spray bottle to mist the top and sides to keep them moist. The cardboard helps moderate the water and keep the blocks moist too.
They're really not intended for indoor seed starting and not for exposure to rain and wind. A cover or extra protection would be advisable if using them outside.
@@GardenerScott I primarily germinate native perennials and I let them cold stratify outside through the winter. Always looking for better ways to do my germination and be economical.
Scott, did you have any fungus gnat issues with this soil block recipe? I could imagine getting alot of fungus gnats from either the peat moss or the compost. Of course with the peat you can do the boil water and add to kill them off, but if you do that with your compost, you're killing all of the beneficial microbes and ALSO your amendments (blood meal, greensand, whatever else) become pretty useless since that's what breaks them down. This is the part I'm struggling with if I decide to bite the bullet and buy soil block makers this year and make my own recipe. Seems like most soil block users are market gardeners who have a greenhouse/hot house of some sort that they are using for their seedlings, so the fungus gnat issue probably doesn't matter QUITE as much to them? I am not sure.
I haven't had any extra fungus gnat problems. It might be a bit worse because the whole block needs to stay moist and I usually allow the surface to dry out when the gnats appear.
just use fabric pots, much better, less worry, less hassle, the roots dont often circle due to air pruning and the roots can grow through the fabric meaning when you have to transplant, you can just put the fabric pot directly into another fabric pot since the roots grow through the fabric, and they're pretty cheap too when you dont factor in growing medium price but even then is still more worth your money than the soil blockers imo since you aren't paying for a sand castle maker when you buy fabric pots, like there really is no point to buy soil blockers if you can buy a square sand castle maker for a lot cheaper lmao
Adding 3% food grade hydrogen peroxide to the water helps. You can also add it into water and mist the top, that helps control them. There are many yellow sticky traps that you can place by your trays, it helps bigtime, and so does a fan although it might dry out the blocks of soil faster. Maybe aim the air flow above the level of the blocks.
You can use Bt israliensis (mosaquito dunks) to treat gnats organically. I mix a chunk of a dunk with water, and water my seedlings with that once a week. Kills them off. I use the yellow sticky traps to check for them, not treat.
I like to repurpose . My coffee cans and assorted " disposable containers " get used to hopefully keep that many from hitting the landfills and for less plastic pots to be made espressly for plants . I figure since my containers serve two purposes its the lesser evil . Still , lesser evil it is ....Soil blocks seem pretty useful in reducing the use of plastics even more than repurposing .
Can you please recommend a soil mix on amazon that I could buy to make my soil blocks? A link would be great. I did not know how to select for one. I just bought my soil block maker but need to buy the soil.
Because I make my own soil mix I haven't bought one on Amazon for blocks, but I've had good success with FoxFarm products. It is made with many organic ingredients to benefit the plants. You might want to start with this: amzn.to/2VVMeA3 You can also check out my video to see how I make my blends: ua-cam.com/video/yOO1y73GbeU/v-deo.html
I got a feeling that I was watching a cake-making tutorial. Haha.
Scott is the best tutor. Knowledgeable, constructive and absolutely clear.
Once again, the best explanation on UA-cam, thanks so much Gardener Scott.
I just love the community here. The comment section is always as informative as the video! Thanks Scott for creating a space where we can all come together and learn and grow! Pun entirely intended lol.
Hi Scott. I have had my soil blockers for years and love them.
When I start my seeds, I become a "helicopter" gardener, and start to watch for sprouting as soon as the next day. (It can happen!)
With access to the sides of the block, it's easy to monitor moisture levels and I use a pipette to carefully water them.
I think the soil blocks make it possible for me to be more in tune with what I'm growing.
I have even started carrots in the mini-blocks. They get transplanted the day I see the seed case starting to open up. The carrots don't seem to suffer in the slightest, and I think the compost in my mix helps with moisture retention.
These practices are probably way too fussy and ka-fiddly for some, but for me, I enjoy that closer connection with my plants, made possible by a simple expression mold.
I tried your soil block recipe this year, and it works great. The blocks hold together very well. Thank you for a simple, excellent recipe.
I tried soil blocks last year. Did not have good luck with them. I learned a lot from this video and will try again. The small ones are finicky. Mine would dry out when I was at work and if I watered too much, they just melted. The cardboard is a great idea. Misting also helps. I am home all day now and can give them more attention. I will try your soil recipe. Thanks GS!
You're welcome. I hope you have better luck this time.
Thank you, gardener Scott. As usual, clear and to the point. As far as the price, I think it's well worth it, considering how the prices for the plastic pots rocketed in the last year. The 4" one is a bit too much, but the 1" and the 2" are not too bad if they last for years to come, especially for my 2 acres garden. The time saved alone and the convenience will justify it for me. I'm buying these. I bought the Mini and the 1" dibbles... for now :)
Very nice tutorial on making blocks. I understand the advantages of the soil block method, but it is hard to ditch the ease of just filling a starter tray. Everyone says that plants get root bound, and I understand that. But I think it depends on the plant if they recover or not. I took a root bound pepper plant that was about 12 inches tall and planted it in a hanging planter. Two days later I thought, man I should have unbound the roots before I planted. So I pulled it up and it was beautiful. In two days it had already grown about 30 roots in all directions. So I just replanted it. So I think it probably depends on what type of plant it is. I think peppers and tomatoes will recover quickly on their own.
If one can build a sand castle then one can do this on the cheap with any mold or cup. Great knowledge in the video. I will never stop listening and learning.
Hi Scott, I have been making 2 inch soil blocks for 4 years now just using miracle grow potting mix ( Boy I can crank them out). It is working great until this year . My wife recently bought me the 4 inch one. The mix now does not work well. I added a manure humus mix still not there but getting closer. I’m looking forward to trying your mix when the stores open again. I have no compost to add . I have been gardening for about 15 years . I think I-have made most of the big mistakes like adding to much potash to the soil . Boy that was hard to bring the ph back . Lots of miss information out there. I also do my own soil testing with a kit I know I should have it done by an extension office but it has been working well for me . It takes awhile to do all the tests. Thanks for taking the time to do your channel . Thats a-lot of work just in it’s self . It is truly appreciated. All the best. Dean
Thanks, Dean. Sounds like you're making great efforts.
Brilliant video! So clear and easy to follow. Lot of good gardening channels on UA-cam that I enjoy, but I think this is the best of all of them. Thank you, sir, for sharing your knowledge. 👍🏼
Thank you very much!
liked and subscribed. This will be my 3rd season using soil blocks and I finally got the soil block kit from Amazon that you're demonstrating here. Until now I've used a 1"i.d. PVC pipe with a 1" wooden dowel to make round blocks one at a time. This works in a pinch, but it takes me 30+ minutes to fill a tray. These blockers are much easier. Thank you for the tip about the cardboard. That is genius. Some of my blocks around the edge always fall apart, but they won't this year. Thank you!
Thanks. Welcome to the channel. I'm glad I could be helpful.
This is the most helpful soil block video I’ve seen. Thank you!
I use toilet paper rolls, cut in half, then fill & press the soil mix down in them. Then use a piece of dowel rod or something similar to make the holes in centers.
Awesome, I am stealing this idea. It never hurts to try new ideas from time time. Thanks.
Sounds like a plan
Toilet paper tubes can easily get moldy from bacteria picked up from the bathroom. I’ve done this before, with mixed results.
Hey Scott, great video. We've been using soil blocks for over 6 years but we had one issue with them as we expanded the amount of plants we grow. In the spring when its warm enough to keep seedlings out 24 hours a day we noticed that rain will destroy the blocks if not kept safe. When we were doing a few 1020 trays it wasn't an issue but last year we had 400+ plants and it was a real chore to run outside and bring the rolling kitchen racks into the garage. This year we're going to try the newish bootstrapfarmer air pruning trays. Soil blocks will always have a place in my heart but unless we could get a larger greenhouse with automatic fans we have to try other methods here.
So, did you like the Bootstrap Farmer trays better than the soil blocks?
@@s9josh778 This is a great question. For us we went back to the soilblocks. I was gifted the 4in blocker in the summer and love it. If we are going to give away seedlings or say tomatoes with 6 branches we will up pot into the 5in BSF air prune pots. What is hard is to make sure the people we are giving the plants to return the pots, 4packs or 6packs (they are pricey). My issue with the BSF air prune "plugs" was that it was harder to see when they needed to be watered. Soil blocks are quite simple and when they dry out a bit you can pick them up easily and feel the weight. It did solve the issue with rain, we don't like to baby our seedlings and live to have them out in the elements to strengthen. The 4/6 packs helped that. I don't want to leave the soil blocks in the greenhouse until they are ready to go into the ground without exposing them to the elements. What I have noticed over the years is that once the soil blocks become packed with roots you can overhead water right on the plants at a decent height and not have them fall apart but that method you need to use draining 1020 trays.
All in all I'd say they are great for people that don't want to make soil blocks. We do still use the BSF air prune 72 cell trays for mass plantings or things like flowers and milkweed. We have started making the 20 block soil blocks and transplanting into the 2in blocks but seeding several hundred flower seeds it just easier with the 72 cell BSF air prune trays. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@Poconogreyhound Thanks. I understood the beginning and end, but that bit in the middle about 4/6 pack pots lost me. What did I miss?
sorry sometimes I get on writing and don't reread it. The 4 packs and 6 pack inserts for a 1020 tray make it super easy to leave plants out almost in any weather without having the soil fall apart. The bootstrap farmer packs do have some air pruning but nothing like soil blocks where the roots just explode out of the sides and bottom. But like I said I probably wont use the 4 pack and 6 pack inserts for much other than mass plantings. @@s9josh778
I've used soil blocks for two years but your tip on the cardboard is a good one.
Thanks.
Just yesterday I ordered the smallest blocker, 3/4" x 3/4" so your video has been so helpful. My plan is to germinate/start my flowers seeds in the soil blocks but then will move them up into plastic containers (already have from last year) so that I have sizeable transplants ready for my shorter growing season. This will also allow me to still give plants away to my friends. Will be using your simplified soil recipe as I appreciate that it minimizes the number of amendments that I need to purchase. Just subbed and look forward to learning more about gardening from you!
Welcome to the channel. Sounds like a good plan.
Thank you! Very informative and thorough 😊
Gardener Scott, love the channel sir. I decided to plant some veggies of my own because with the situation in the world today who knows how long the grocery stores will stay open. IV been listening to your channel while I plant some tomatoes, corn, carrots and lettuce. Good stuff man, very informative. Ps. I'm using peat moss !👍👍 Lol
Thanks! I'm not worried about stores staying open, but it's always a good idea to grow some of our own food.
Thank you for your efforts, and really happy I found your page..you must be a teacher with your professional mannerism..
Thanks for the video! I bought the friskar soil blocker for $6 which makes one large block or four small. Works great and so much cheaper than those on Amazon.
Gardener Scott is like having a Professor of gardening give you a 1 on 1 first class education on all aspects of growing plants... Thank You Sir for these videos...
I'm so glad you're enjoying them, David.
Great video, easy to understand and the information was very helpful
Very interesting! Love the idea of not using those pesky little pots. Thank you.
I’ve been using TP rolls but could not resist this tool. It’s like a play doh extrusion toy for adults!!
Dude my finger will last me forever too. No nipples to change or expensive tools
I have reused my pots for 5 years and I got them for free
finally a soil block recipe i can make thank you
We started a worn bin in January '19. Now we have a good 'free' supply of castings. Have started some saved onion seed in straight castings, but will make a mix with perlite, coco coir, blood meal & castings. All the gardeners getting seeds started will surely bring spring sooner. :)
I'll be using my castings in potting mix, but haven't thought to start seeds in it. Thanks for the idea to try.
Very well put together video. Excellent breakdown and comparisons for soil block mixtures. Well done. Very useful.
Thank you very much.
Thank you for this video Gardener Scott. I have been enjoying going through your videos. I recently got back into gardening and things have sure changed in 20 years. I got me a soil blocker, the larger one you are showing and have decided to use your recipe as I have everything bu the bone meal. A question I have is Why would you feel the need to use the smaller one first. Seems like an extra step. Again, thank you for your generosity and kindness.
The smaller one allows you to start more seeds in a small space and then transplant them to pots or outside. You can definitely start with a bigger blocker if you have more space or start fewer plants.
Agree w Gardener Scott.
And I was thinking that using the small blocks saves you from wasting soil on the big blocks by ensuring that the seeds actually germinated.
I use paper cups. I cut an X in the bottom of the cup, that way the roots can grow from the bottom of the pot. Then I set the cups wherever I need them and the plant is not bothered. Most of the paper is decomposed as the season progresses.
Pro tip: In case you want to try using soil blocks before investing in a soil block maker, you can easily diy one. I first started out with a single one made out of a small pice of square leftover plastic tube and a piece of fitting wood with a non level screw at the end for the indent. Of course you can also use round things like small pipe leftovers and a fitting stick. A public broadcasting program in my country even made one out of LEGO :D So get creative!
I have since upgraded to a metal made block maker for convenience, but just saying that most people should be able to try it out for free or next to free before investing.
I will make my soil block with my brownie silicone mold. Lol.. It will be easy and cheap and I believe I will have the same result, just compress the soil in the mold and then flip and get a block, and just press in the middle and become a hole.. Easy, easy...
A silicone mold is a great idea.
I have found that woth cardboard, you can grind it in the osterizer, and make a fair too good moldable mass, I tried it once so you are going to light my bulb, lady.
Made mine with a used vitamin D bottle for the tube with a plunger made from a discarded prescription bottle. For the planting depression, I Super Glued on a nut. It's just under 2'', but a cylinder (of course). It works. Thinking of making a smaller one, for lettuce, chards, etc, to save money on starting mix.
Awesome idea!!
Very helpful, thanks. Cardboard bottom as wick was an excellent tip.
I use free small paper cups made from a single layer of newspaper, formed around a empty tp roll. Then just plant pot and all in the ground.
Another great idea. And it recycles too. Thanks.
I tried TP rolls last year, because they are cylindrical, they not as space economical as cubes; also to collect enough of them someone needs to have a family of 6 to 8; otherwise it would take a couple of months to collect. I tried cutting them in two and 3 equal parts. Cutting in two worked better than 3. Once a TP roll cut, it may not stay intact for long enough, since the TP roll made from spiral paper. I found the process too intensive>
News print composts so easily . Still , we chop down a tree to get it ... still better Idea than plastics
@@georgeelmerdenbrough6906 News print is generally made from trees grown specifically for that purpose. As the trees are harvested and made into paper, new trees are planted. Old growth forest is not used for paper.
Been using the 2 incher for years. Luckily I got mine years ago for a very reasonable price.
I recommend buying soil blockers from Johnny's Seeds, an excellent Maine company. (I have no affiliation with the company; I've become a faithful customer because of the quality of their products and timeliness of their shipments.)
I found an older steel 2x2” blocker at an antique store today for cheap. I have a bunch of Hoss trays but have been wanting to try these. They look great! I am excited to see how they work out.
Great video. I use coir that comes in a block so no big pieces. I use vermiculite and sifted garden compost. Last year I added some sifted leaf mould. I haven’t added bone meal but may try that this year. I add mosquito dunks to the water in my watering can when I bottom water to deal with any fungus gnats.
I sift the compost and leaf mould in the fall and keep it in big buckets (with lids) in my unheated greenhouse. Come March it’s ready to go.
I did come across feathermeal, greensand, cottonseed meal and it was a NW company--name? However it is also in the Kellogg brand fertilizer and I will be trying that this year. I have also used mainly blood and bonemeal in the past few years with great results.
I have read people using their own compost or soil, but concerned about fungus dampening off all the seeds.
I have a kind of a large garden, I am going into my own food production and food selling, here in Guatemala, I expect to have employees for 2022, so I am going to grab my popcorn (literally), and I am going to take note......
I'm going to need ten more notebooks for all the notes I take from Gardener Scott's videos!! Now I have to make some popcorn...
Really nice video with detailed information. Thank you for your time!
You are welcome.
Wow this is for me. I have never liked the starter trays. I am definitely going to get this. Thanks for sharing.
Glad to help!
Very good and interesting. Just wondering, after transplanting seedlings from small plastic sections into my 4 and 5" cups, if the potting mix would stay together if the cups are removed after a couple of weeks. Seems like a good excuse to plant a few extra seeds!
If you use web trays and/or soil block trays instead of regular 1020 trays and/or cardboard, the roots will air prune on the bottom as well as the sides.
A good, clear video on soil blocks.. I use all peat instead of adding coir, since peat seems to hold the moisture better for me and moisture is a key to getting these to work. I have used them extensively, and I find them especially helpful for herbs by starting with the small cubes and moving them up. I have used the 4-inch blocks, but they simply get too heavy and awkward to handle. I move the 2-inch blocks into 3- or 4-inch pots as they mature instead. I love greensand as a soil amendment, but I don't think it adds much to the blocks ,
I've haven't used soil blocks but the two micro scale farms I go to use it in their recipes. The other variables in your mix/growing conditions could be offsetting any gains you'd get with green sand. Gotta love it when you get the same results as others with less resources spent.
Creat content Scott! I’m learning so much from you!
Hello Scott, I recently bought a set of blockers and overall I am happy with them. I had to use what I had on hand for the mix. Unfortunately that was potting soil. Fortunately I also had coir and vermiculite. The blocks came out OK and were quite sturdy. However I found that delicate seeds like onions and strawberries could not penetrate the top of the micro blocks and as such would start to germinate on top of the soil instead of inside them. Larger seeds like squash seems to do OK. Would you say the failure to root was the potting soil? I helped them along with a chopstick and manually placed the seedlings root side down inside them and now they seem to do very well. For the base i used an old tea towel and a mason jar to create a makeshift capillary mat. This part seems to work amazingly well! The higher I place the jar, the more water it dispenses, so I can fully control the moisture.
Yes, I would guess it is the potting soil. It tends to be chunky and denser than a seed starting mix or soil block made primarily of peat so the little roots have trouble growing in it. I like the idea of capillary watering.
I’ve been debating going this route, but haven’t pulled the trigger yet, maybe next spring...
I was that way too and I still do most of my seeds in trays and pots, but soil blocks are a fun way to add variety to gardening. :)
Great instruction. Thank you.
I really like the cardboard idea!
As you were showing how the smaller blocks fit into the bigger blocks, my mind went back to rockwool cubes... same concept... but used for hydroponic systems.
Yes, there are many similarities.
G00D Afternoon from Auckland, New Zealand it’s Tuesday, November 26, 2019.
... and here we are a bit ahead of the curve - June 2nd 2020, probably best to stay safe in November, 2019. 👨🏼🚀😉
hey Gardner Scott!! Could I take cardboard strips and cut little slats in them and make criss cross grids out of them? Very similar to the dividers you might find in a storage box for your Christmas ornaments! I could use a thin cardboard like from a cereal box or any cardboard really and just fill them with soil down in a tray and they would help wick up the water in between the blocks. I don't think I would get the same air pruning benefit, but the bottom being open I don't see any root rot or binding. Thoughts?
Yes, I think you could. When it comes time to separate them doing it from the outside in should work.
I usually use the compostable Jiffy pots, the little plug sized ones.
I did the cost comparison "Jiffy" Vs "144 Cells 1"x1" + regular cheap soil"
It cost me 0.50$ (cdn) of cheap potting soil for 144 seed cells (1" x 1" ) with my setup..
Jiffy cost 2x20.00$ = 40$/144 cells first year
Jiffy cost 2x6.50$ = 13$/144 celles every year for new plugs
My setup:
First year: 21$ +0.50$ soil
Next year: 0.50$ for the soil
Every years after, my setup is 26 times cheaper! And I have more control on the environment, the plastic is durable, etc. If one container is damaged, you still have 11 containers that are working fine. With Jiffy, the plastic is very thin and prone to premature failure. If you have a hole in your large 72 Jiffy system, you have to throw it away and buy again.
I use 12 pk of 12cell mini green house for 21$ (all prices in Canadian, shipping incl, without txs).
I have these soil blockers last year and have struggled with the right mix. Thank you for sharing yours and showing moisture content. Taking practice for me to get that right. ;) Will be trying out your recipe this week. And the cardboard is a great idea! One thing I say from a greenhouse grower is they use small leftover trays from buying meats. They work well also.
Question... I also heard I should use boiling water when wetting my soil to kill any bug eggs that may be in the potting soils (if using), any thoughts on that for indoor seedling starts? I've previously had gnat issues with indoor plants while using a well known premix but was told they all do no matter what.
Thank you again for sharing another great video!
It definitely takes time to get it right and I'm still learning how to do that too. I make my own mix from peat and bagged compost partly because I don't have to worry about eggs in the mix. I've never had a problem with insect eggs. Potting soils from big brands should be sterilized already, so there shouldn't be any eggs. If you're using homemade compost, you can attempt to sterilize it with boiling water, but then you'll be killing beneficial bacteria too. The gnats will happen on any mix; they're always around. By allowing the surface of the soil to dry slightly it should reduce them a lot.
@@GardenerScott Thank you! This year, after 30 some years gardening, was the first time I had heard to boil the water for pre-made starter mix. I guess it couldn't hurt. I don't use my garden compost for seed starting, (maybe I should), only when I pot up for selling, but going to start a worm farm so maybe I would use that. Thank you again for taking the time to answer!
Great idea using the cardboard. I’ve not seen the one inch blocks in use.. interesting.. I have a two inch blocker.
I really find the cardboard helps with watering so the blocks don't dissolve in the water, and it helps moderate the moisture. I appreciate you sharing that you have a blocker. Thanks.
Interesting video. QUESTION: While I'm guessing that seed size determines which size block you make....why do you plant first in the small 1" blocks and transfer them to the larger block? Is there a difference if you just planted that seed directly into the big block? Beginner gardener and I appreciate any feedback.
Good question, Tanya. You are right that the size of the seed, and resulting plant, determines the block size. For most plants that start small and stay small for awhile, a small block is fine. For plants that start big, like cucumbers and squash, the bigger block is best for starting. One of the reasons for starting with small blocks is for the number of seeds you can sow; if you have the space to grow a lot of plants, you can start with many seedlings under lights in small blocks, and then transplant to bigger blocks and grow those is a greenhouse or other light room. Also, if germination rates are low, you've only used a small amount of soil in a small space and not wasted a lot of soil and space because of a big block/pot. And, many plants do better when transplanted into ever-bigger pots/blocks as the grow (like tomatoes). You can sow small seeds directly into the bigger blocks, but a main argument against that is it is more difficult to maintain the proper soil moisture level in big blocks/pots when seedlings are small. As the seedlings grow you need to continue to water them; it takes a lot less water to keep a small block moist than a big block. Also, very young seedlings need loose soil, with plenty of air, for their roots and a big block tends to be denser. If you're just growing a few plants, don't have a space concern, and planning to put them directly in the garden, starting with the bigger blocks is just fine.
I might try this method as an experiment, but I already have pretty good results using drinking cups with holes drilled in the bottom. I use cups ranging from 9 ounce to 24 ounce.
They don't look that expensive to me for the money that you're going to save in the long run. Though I have to admit the 4-inch blocker kind of gave me a start It was a bit much.
I've seen a couple of other growers on UA-cam use these. They are very interesting.
Eliot Coleman at one point recommended/suggested making your own 4'' block maker out of the bottom half of a quart container. Drilled a hole in the middle bottom, put a wide screw through it and a washer and bolt on other side to hold it in place. Downsides are the block isn't as perfect, sometimes it doesn't work, when you flip it over you have to kinda bang it out a couple times on the flat surface to get it to come out as you have no plunger. Also, I think the hole wouldn't be exactly the right size unless you made a small wood block that fits onto the end of the screw (possible with a little bit of woodworking and trial and error).
Another alternative I've seen a no-till farmer do (Jesse over at no-till growers youtube channel) is just 'pot up' the seedling by taking it and forming a ball of the wet mix around the seedling. So he had these soil balls basically the same approx size, maybe bigger and just shapes them by hand with the live 2'' seedling.
imo you aren't saving much money. . they cost $44 each just for the 2" ones when I could just buy 3x30l fabric pots, some rootit propogation sponges and the growing medium I'll be using for 105 in total, using the soil blockers just doesn't seem practical for the price when I could buy everything I need for a good grow for 105 and not have to waste time making a soil mix to put in the soil blocker, I can just put my seed straight into the rootit sponge, let it grow until roots emerge from the bottom and transplant it to a 5l fabric pot and then put the 5l pot straight into whatever pot would come next without the worry of my soil block crumbling to pieces
If you use very hot water to the soil mix, it absorbs it instantly.
Great to find you! Excellent video.
Gracias. Yucatán, México
I found that I could make better blocks by filling the block maker with soil and then turning it over and pressing additional soil in with my fingers. I get firmer soil in the block because I can squeeze the block maker between my palm and fingers on the soil. The blocks are more durable this way and I have fewer that crumble. I'm using the 2 inch block maker.
Thanks for the recommendation.
An old farmer in my area, as I recall, makes his formula using dry (bagged) Dog food, unscented kitty litter, peat moss, 1 part local soil, shredded news paper and worm castings. Personally, I use zero animal products (other than worms and their castings) due to pathogens in the blood and bone or feather meal which I don't want in my garden, so I leave them out, including the dog food. Vegan Organic Dog Food is expensive, so not for me. But I do add a handful of Epsom salt (Magnesium Sulfate). So, my recipe is: 1/4 peat, 1/4 compost mixed with black top soil, 2 handfuls of Epsom salt, 1/4 bagged unscented Kitty litter (unused, dry... $3 or less at the grocery) and 1/4 worm castings. I believe this formula will grow anything. If you want feather meal, just buy Miracle-Gro products. Read the ingredient list and on every bag I examined, in fine print, it says 'poultry litter, including feathers'.
Interesting recipe from the farmer. I'm glad your formula is successful.
Gardener Scott Thanks
I've heard/seen things specifically saying not to use epsom salt on the garden . . .
Thank you.
I like the idea of vermiculite instead of perlite to hold moisture. What about using Biochar instead of either. My assumption is that I would need to soak it for a while first and add extra nutrients while soaking in order to charge the Biochar. I welcome any advice here. I got soil blocker for Christmas so I plan to start testing soon. Love your channel Merry Christmas
I've begun adding charged biochar more often in my potting soil mixes. In a handful of tests I did a few years ago, I didn't see an advantage to using biochar in seed starter mixes. For the initial soil block a peat blend is fine. For bigger blocks and transplanting, biochar is a viable option. I'd be interested to hear of your experience if you try it.
Sorry I have to stop halfway through to make a comment. I think it's seems like a brilliant idea. I would not go wild on the nutes or worm compost in the soil block I could do more harm then help in the early stage of the plants life. The airation of the roots and moisture control should be improved compared to a pot. I'm going to try this now but with a small pot or a seedling tray as a mold and try to press the block out without using a machine.
Good idea. You don't need a special blocker. A pot as a mold will work fine.
What type of vermiculite do you use? Course, medium, or fine? Also how do you label these with what plant each is? Usually I just stick the label into the back of the plastic cells but these seem like they would be difficult to label without them falling apart when you stick in the label.
It's coarse, but I have ground it into smaller particles when the pieces are too big.
@@GardenerScott so im guessing you cant label the plants when they're in a soil block since you didn't answer their full question . . lmaoooo
Just added it to my cart👍. Love your videos 😍
Thanks, Dee!
Hi. From what I’ve learned Peat Moss is NOT a sustainable resource. Here in Europe (UK) it certainly isn’t sustainable. Pear takes thousands of years to be laid down. It would be helpful if you would include alternatives to Peat in your videos please. Thanks for your videos, they are very helpful.
You're right and that's why I mention it in the video. There are many European countries where it is illegal to harvest peat because it is not sustainable. In Russia and Canada, they are actively working to keep it sustainable. Thanks. I will add more alternatives when I can.
Awesome I've never seen this
Hello, I know this sounds silly but can clean shed hair (from your brush) or cotton thread be used as the "fibrous material used to hold the block together? I believe that both of these will break down.
I haven't used those, but it sounds like it would work. It's not much different from coco coir.
Again thank you , well done...
Scott, do you use (still) soil blocks exclusively?
No, I primarily use seed trays and then move to small pots.
@@GardenerScott THANK YOU SO MUCH for that question and answer!!!!
I've been look at the block vibe lately... I did calculation and it is marginally cheaper than Jiffy method, but way more expensive than regular seed tray + small pots...
Old fashion is still the best so far!
I definitely want to go this way next season. As I want to avoid plastic and pot bound plants. I sell seedlings and wonder how my customers will carry them home?
If they are in a box, side by side, they'll hold together. You might be able to wrap them with paper.
instead of using these use fabric pots, they're a much better option and are cheaper upfront [though more expensive if you factor in growing medium], the roots grow through the pot and get pruned by the air so the plant being root bound is much less likely, it might cost more to do in total if you factor in the medium used and the price of the fabric pots, but fabric pots are cheap anyways and the growing medium I use costs $50 for 100 litres, they also wont fall apart when customers try to carry them home, generally most fabric pots depending on size will have handles as well so it can make it easier to carry your pots [mine are 16l fabric pots and they have handles] but I think you should have pot risers under the fabric pots so air can get under the plant as well
Great video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks!
How do you water these soil blocks? Dont they fall apart if you water them?
As I show in the video, I water from below with an occasional spray of water. By using material like peat or coir it helps hold the block together. If you pour water on the blocks they can dissolve.
Always thought soil trays where used to mantain high level of humidity during seed germination, do I still need to use them with these?
Higher humidity can help maintain soil moisture during germination and can still be useful with blocks.
Scott does the bonemeal and blood meal have to be broken down by microbes first before plants can use the nutrients?
Yes. Like other nutrients in the soil, microbes break them down into usable forms for plants to use.
Hello Scott
Did I really like what you’re saying but I do have a question I was recommended use seasol seaweed solution And coir And parting soil.
That have bought stuff that going to use but I’m not sure if work and not sure of the measurements that would need to use it, should I try it or
I should followed your recipe ideas instead.
As you can tell I’m very worried because I am a beginner and gardening and not sure they’re working every time I have tried things before they have died .
I have to use the polite because I prefer the other one VERMICULITE.
I have nobody really to talk to about these questions because I don’t know very many people there Gardens.?
Can you recipe work for both normal in the garden and as well as the block cubes?
Due to the fact that I’m living in a climate right now that is really hot and has been in drought for awhile.
Also looking into hydroponics.
This recipe is best for soil blocks. I do it differently for potting and transplanting plants. Here's my video telling about that: ua-cam.com/video/yOO1y73GbeU/v-deo.html Keep trying new things and see what you like best.
Have you ever tried using biochar in place of vermiculite or perlite
I use biochar in my garden beds but haven't used it to replace either perlite or vermiculite.
I have found that in soil mixes it can get crazy sometimes and is totally a personal thing. It seems to me that people believe that the harder it is to get a material the better it is or somehow it will have magical properties. I am not totally sure what it is but I believe local is the best no matter what it is. Local microbes and fungi would have to be better than using something that has a different make-up to your local dirt. That is purely my opinion I have no real evidence to back it up besides my own experience and in my experience simple is ALWAYS better.
I like the idea of soil blocks. But in practice I think that a soil blocker would sit unused on my potting bench. I wouldn't want to mess around to get the mix right, and I think pots would be easier to move around. Also when it comes to the garden, I'm cheap. I try to avoid buying anything. If I was going to use soil blocks, I think I'd have to find a way to make them for free.
I tend to agree with you. I've had blockers for years and still prefer to use pots. You can use tin cans, milk cartons and similar containers as blockers if you want to experiment.
Where can I buy replacement seed pins or seed dibblers for the soil blocker? Are they universal for all brands, or do you need to purchase a Ladbrooke for a Ladbrooke brand? Thank you :)
I’m not sure if they’re universal but should be close. Many of the big seed companies and nurseries sell them
@@GardenerScott Thank you, that's helpful! :)
Hi Scott, I have a couple of questions because I am new to soil blocks. Why don't you use lime in your recipe? Is it because the soil you add is alkaline already( Like mine)? Also, do you find that diseases such as pythium, etc. are not a problem? I was wondering about using this technique without a sterilized medium. Thanks, Kim
Hi, Kim. Good questions. I don't add lime because it adds extra expense and effort and the plants will only be in the blocks for a short period, too short for the pH to have a big effect. Most retail seed starter mixes are peat based with no added lime for the same reason. For long-term transplanting into pots, added lime or extra compost in the planting mix can moderate the pH. When I put the blocks in my alkaline soil garden the peat balances the pH in that spot a little bit, and I don't want any added lime to make my soil pH worse. I haven't had a problem with pythium or any other diseases because I'm using store-bought, sterile peat and compost. If I use my own compost in mixes I do make extra effort to keep moisture levels on the dry side, hopefully to reduce damping off problems. Soggy, humid conditions in unsterilized media can cause the root rot issues so good airflow and moisture control is critical.
@@GardenerScott Thanks for the response. That answered my questions.
How do you cover the seed in the starter blocks without destroying them? Thanks, Jim
I just sprinkle the soil-less mix on top without pressing into the block.
Jim just use a wet toothpick, pick up one seed and drop in. Never found a reason to cover the seed anymore. Just move the toothpick around a tad. Hope this helps
Thanks a lot for that very informative tutorial. I saw another video where a guy says he doesn't have to harden them off - do you take the time to harden yours off or not?
I always try to harden off. When it comes time to plant, my days are hot and nights are cold. Add in a lot of wind and it can be harsh on plants that were used to living indoors.
I always try to harden off. When it comes time to plant, my days are hot and nights are cold. Add in a lot of wind and it can be harsh on plants that were used to living indoors.
@@GardenerScott thanks for letting me know - this year is unique, but in general I'm gone a lot and so can't really harden things off in the right way. I'm experimenting with winter sowing this year - we'll see how that goes.
Interesting on how many people talk about coco core. Something that is not available in my area
How do I use the soil blocks with my green house to start my seedlings indoors before planting
You can use them as I show in the video instead of a pot. You may need to water more often if the greenhouse is hot.
I might experiment with ice cube trays.
Good idea. Good luck with it.
Seems like a no brainer and a win /win situation. Too bad I invested in permanent seedling cells and trays.😭
Thanks!!
Would you use the same soil mix if starting in a mini soil blocker?
You might need smaller ingredients for a mini blocker but the basic mix is the same.
@@GardenerScott Thank you
If you don't have blood and bone meal what can you substitute with ? Some use alfalfa meal, kelp and green-sand, would that work ?
You can use those as alternatives. Alfalfa by itself is good because it has a balance of NPK.
@@GardenerScott Thank you Scott.
Scott, how do you water the soil blocks without them falling apart?
Hi, Mary. As I mention briefly in the video, water around the edges so the blocks can absorb the water. I'll also use a spray bottle to mist the top and sides to keep them moist. The cardboard helps moderate the water and keep the blocks moist too.
They are unavailable now?
Anywhere else to get them?
Just got a 2" (4 blocks) blocker from Gardener's Workshop.
I germinate seeds outside without a greenhouse. How do the soil blocks hold together when exposed to the elements like rain?
They're really not intended for indoor seed starting and not for exposure to rain and wind. A cover or extra protection would be advisable if using them outside.
@@GardenerScott makes since.
@@GardenerScott I primarily germinate native perennials and I let them cold stratify outside through the winter. Always looking for better ways to do my germination and be economical.
Scott, did you have any fungus gnat issues with this soil block recipe? I could imagine getting alot of fungus gnats from either the peat moss or the compost. Of course with the peat you can do the boil water and add to kill them off, but if you do that with your compost, you're killing all of the beneficial microbes and ALSO your amendments (blood meal, greensand, whatever else) become pretty useless since that's what breaks them down.
This is the part I'm struggling with if I decide to bite the bullet and buy soil block makers this year and make my own recipe. Seems like most soil block users are market gardeners who have a greenhouse/hot house of some sort that they are using for their seedlings, so the fungus gnat issue probably doesn't matter QUITE as much to them? I am not sure.
I haven't had any extra fungus gnat problems. It might be a bit worse because the whole block needs to stay moist and I usually allow the surface to dry out when the gnats appear.
just use fabric pots, much better, less worry, less hassle, the roots dont often circle due to air pruning and the roots can grow through the fabric meaning when you have to transplant, you can just put the fabric pot directly into another fabric pot since the roots grow through the fabric, and they're pretty cheap too when you dont factor in growing medium price but even then is still more worth your money than the soil blockers imo since you aren't paying for a sand castle maker when you buy fabric pots, like there really is no point to buy soil blockers if you can buy a square sand castle maker for a lot cheaper lmao
Adding 3% food grade hydrogen peroxide to the water helps. You can also add it into water and mist the top, that helps control them. There are many yellow sticky traps that you can place by your trays, it helps bigtime, and so does a fan although it might dry out the blocks of soil faster. Maybe aim the air flow above the level of the blocks.
You can use Bt israliensis (mosaquito dunks) to treat gnats organically. I mix a chunk of a dunk with water, and water my seedlings with that once a week. Kills them off. I use the yellow sticky traps to check for them, not treat.
I like to repurpose . My coffee cans and assorted " disposable containers " get used to hopefully keep that many from hitting the landfills and for less plastic pots to be made espressly for plants . I figure since my containers serve two purposes its the lesser evil . Still , lesser evil it is ....Soil blocks seem pretty useful in reducing the use of plastics even more than repurposing .
Can you please recommend a soil mix on amazon that I could buy to make my soil blocks? A link would be great. I did not know how to select for one. I just bought my soil block maker but need to buy the soil.
Because I make my own soil mix I haven't bought one on Amazon for blocks, but I've had good success with FoxFarm products. It is made with many organic ingredients to benefit the plants. You might want to start with this: amzn.to/2VVMeA3
You can also check out my video to see how I make my blends: ua-cam.com/video/yOO1y73GbeU/v-deo.html
How do you keep it from falling apart when you water it?
By using fibrous material like coir and watering lightly at the base, it shouldn't fall apart.