this can be done with a non slip shaft also, just order a non SYE double cardan drive shaft from what ever vendor you choose, it wont be as cheap money wise as this was. id like a set screw or thru-bolt on the TC output shaft myself doing it this way. that way you are sure you have max spline engagement on the output shaft at all times
To be sure you had no other modifications or altercations to the new yoke or existing driveshaft? Just bolted up and all good? I need to do this with my 2000 XJ with a 231 TC that looks to have a 4” lift (previous owner installed)....good video, thanks!
Could you say, drill into just the side of the yoke and tap it and use a grub screw to prevent that slipping off? I only ask because id figure if both the new part and the center can slip than if the pumpkin torques under load its gonna change the angles a lot, probably no big deal, but something to consider if u joints keep breaking. just a thought! love the videos, been a long time lurker, bought my first xj a year ago and been doing exactly what you do. Keep up the great content as always!
I took it out and was pretty ruff on it and it has been fine. One thing I’m going to experiment with is welding the lower slip just to see how that does but as of right now it’s doing great
I am confused with the "Crown Jeep Cherokee XJ 87-95 NP242 Transfer Case Slip Yoke Eliminator 4856142" is that different spline or something than the output shafts after 1995? ? It looks like it is already cut down..
I have all needed parts and tools to do the hack n tap but haven't decided on doing it yet as thr front drivr shaft is considerably thinner than the rear one. I'm not planning on doing any rock crawling or crazy stuff and this is my daily driver and my only vehicle right now, I see some trails from time to time but nothing hardcore. Any thoughts?
So put of curiosity would it be possible with like a longer bolt on the hack and tap but put a spring between so you can keep the slip yoke but know it won't fall off?if this makes any sense
94 XJ N231J Tcase I put on a 1310 cv style slip yoke from Oliver's driveshaft on a front driveshaft to have a double cardan in the rear. Problem is instead of the end attached to the differential telescoping, the yoke is just extending. Can I drill out this yoke and tap the output shaft as is without cutting it or replacing the 3 hole rear cone?
Yo Ronnie I need some of your expertise 88’ Comanche 4.0 2WD, 6” lift with SOA Do I need an SYE and if so where can I get one cause only ones I can find are for 4wd
@@cherokeeronnie ok cool. The reason it is Supposed to work is because that amount of left right? And did you ever weld the bottom side slip yoke? And Thank you for the reply
Any up and down play in the spline of the yolk and transfer case shaft by chance, I've order multiple already and every single one I get has play were the yolk splines and transfer case splines are and it keeps cause really bad vibes around 65mph and up.
ok , 99 xj , 3" rc lift , 31s . gettin a slight vibe/noise on deceleration , should I try TC spacers b4 i get into all this ? or just run it , mostly mild trails
@@cherokeeronnie Yah, the PO on the 98 xj I just got used about 6 washers to drop the tc. eh. Seems to work. But I'm cleaning and replacing motor accessories before I even get here.
Hey I would like to do this on mine I don’t really plan to do anything crazy off road with it. How strong is this I assume it must be fairly safe otherwise u wouldn’t have done it
I left both of them because I have 2 inch shackles in the back and the s10 springs flex hard I haven’t had a problem yet I just flexed it out hard on this little trail we go on, it’s doing great
So you don't hack or tap the output shaft of the tcase? Hmm, I've seen a couple write ups on different forums where they use the same 3103 yoke and the double cardan joint, but they all cut and tapped the output shaft in some way or another. Any issues with the yoke bottoming out on the output shaft?
No I didn’t cut and tap I wanted to see if this would work than I was going to do the cut and tap but I’m still running on road and off since this video. it cant bottom out I left enough space for it not to
@@cherokeeronnie Bad ass man, thanks for the update! What threw me off is I have an 88 with a 242, which has the tail housing that seals on the slip yoke. I guess I could buy the seal housing for $65 from Ironrock and then set it up the same as you have. Great channel by the way, I've enjoyed every video I've watched!
#1 fan of the series
That’s awesome. I’m thinking of doing this on my no241. It’s not a rock crawler.
this can be done with a non slip shaft also, just order a non SYE double cardan drive shaft from what ever vendor you choose, it wont be as cheap money wise as this was. id like a set screw or thru-bolt on the TC output shaft myself doing it this way. that way you are sure you have max spline engagement on the output shaft at all times
To be sure you had no other modifications or altercations to the new yoke or existing driveshaft? Just bolted up and all good? I need to do this with my 2000 XJ with a 231 TC that looks to have a 4” lift (previous owner installed)....good video, thanks!
Awesome job Ronnie. This is gonna help a lot. Thank you. 👍🏽
Could you say, drill into just the side of the yoke and tap it and use a grub screw to prevent that slipping off? I only ask because id figure if both the new part and the center can slip than if the pumpkin torques under load its gonna change the angles a lot, probably no big deal, but something to consider if u joints keep breaking.
just a thought! love the videos, been a long time lurker, bought my first xj a year ago and been doing exactly what you do. Keep up the great content as always!
I took it out and was pretty ruff on it and it has been fine. One thing I’m going to experiment with is welding the lower slip just to see how that does but as of right now it’s doing great
May do this to mine will only be 3.5” possible 4” when done but have to parts Jeep’s. Could pull one driveshaft of them
my brother did this setup after i did sye + new rear shaft his setup was around half the price of mine
I am confused with the "Crown Jeep Cherokee XJ 87-95 NP242 Transfer Case Slip Yoke Eliminator 4856142" is that different spline or something than the output shafts after 1995? ? It looks like it is already cut down..
Put a GoPro under there and have a look out on some rough stuff. Would be fun to see 👀.
I knew it was temporary and I had a different case so I knocked put the plug and welded that yoke to my transfer case worked fine for 2 yrs
I have all needed parts and tools to do the hack n tap but haven't decided on doing it yet as thr front drivr shaft is considerably thinner than the rear one. I'm not planning on doing any rock crawling or crazy stuff and this is my daily driver and my only vehicle right now, I see some trails from time to time but nothing hardcore. Any thoughts?
So put of curiosity would it be possible with like a longer bolt on the hack and tap but put a spring between so you can keep the slip yoke but know it won't fall off?if this makes any sense
94 XJ N231J Tcase
I put on a 1310 cv style slip yoke from Oliver's driveshaft on a front driveshaft to have a double cardan in the rear. Problem is instead of the end attached to the differential telescoping, the yoke is just extending. Can I drill out this yoke and tap the output shaft as is without cutting it or replacing the 3 hole rear cone?
I'm getting bad noise or binding on mine after the shop did a 3 inch lift...
Is there a reason you cant just weld a bead around the end of the slip yoke to hold it in place and sort of like a weld on hack and tap?
Yo Ronnie I need some of your expertise
88’ Comanche 4.0 2WD, 6” lift with SOA
Do I need an SYE and if so where can I get one cause only ones I can find are for 4wd
Nice! So this will only work without any mods/cutting if the Xj is lifted 5 1/2”+ lift???
Can ANYONE answer my question before I go buy a SYE!??? Lol
It worked in mine and a few others but always remember every jeep Is different
@@cherokeeronnie ok cool. The reason it is Supposed to work is because that amount of left right? And did you ever weld the bottom side slip yoke? And Thank you for the reply
Would this yoke work on a 242 as well? Thx
I wonder if I could do something like this on my 95 wrangler?
I’m sure you could do it just gotta figure out the measurements
most likely will need to shorten the driveshaft for the rear since it has such short wheelbase (front drive shaft is way longer than rear)
Any up and down play in the spline of the yolk and transfer case shaft by chance, I've order multiple already and every single one I get has play were the yolk splines and transfer case splines are and it keeps cause really bad vibes around 65mph and up.
No mines tight I been beating my off road it’s doing great
Good information, Thanks
How does that work with the slip on the shaft and the slip on the yoke?
Idk it works though
ok , 99 xj , 3" rc lift , 31s . gettin a slight vibe/noise on deceleration , should I try TC spacers b4 i get into all this ? or just run it , mostly mild trails
Honestly with a three inch and mild trails I would just do a TC drop it’s cheaper and will help you out
@@cherokeeronnie Yah, the PO on the 98 xj I just got used about 6 washers to drop the tc. eh. Seems to work. But I'm cleaning and replacing motor accessories before I even get here.
Hey I would like to do this on mine I don’t really plan to do anything crazy off road with it. How strong is this I assume it must be fairly safe otherwise u wouldn’t have done it
I drive this Jeep 60 down the road and give it hell off road, so far it’s been holding up
Where did you get that part from
eBay
Will this work with the 1992 Jeep Cherokee 231J with the tail housing?
Not sure haven’t done that year yet
Basically this is hack and tap right???
Kinda not really
I have a 96 xj with a rc 4 1/2 lift. This should work to replace the rear drive shaft correct?
If you get the right drive shaft
@@cherokeeronnie what years are what legnth? which is longer, ZJ, XJ, WJ, TJ, LJ?????
you leave the slip part of the front drive shaft alone? what if it extends and bottons out the slip yoke on the transfer case?
I left both of them because I have 2 inch shackles in the back and the s10 springs flex hard I haven’t had a problem yet I just flexed it out hard on this little trail we go on, it’s doing great
hey Ronnie, so how much play do I want on slip yoke to prevent from bottoming out?
do you know what that yoke came off so we could snag a cheap one at junk yard
They are hard to find I can’t remember the year but they can be found on corvette
interesting
Yo Ronnie, do you happen to know where else I can get that yoke?. The link you provided has been sold out for a while.
Maybe try you local drive shaft shop
If you go to the site he linked it shows a sku. Search that SKU and it will pop up at many sites.
Any shims on the rear diff.
No
So you don't hack or tap the output shaft of the tcase? Hmm, I've seen a couple write ups on different forums where they use the same 3103 yoke and the double cardan joint, but they all cut and tapped the output shaft in some way or another. Any issues with the yoke bottoming out on the output shaft?
No I didn’t cut and tap I wanted to see if this would work than I was going to do the cut and tap but I’m still running on road and off since this video. it cant bottom out I left enough space for it not to
@@cherokeeronnie Bad ass man, thanks for the update! What threw me off is I have an 88 with a 242, which has the tail housing that seals on the slip yoke. I guess I could buy the seal housing for $65 from Ironrock and then set it up the same as you have. Great channel by the way, I've enjoyed every video I've watched!
@@cherokeeronnie so how much play do you want to have so I dont bottom out?
@@doncreed7109 This is what I am wondering as well.