16:24 going back and hitting all the little nubs is such a good idea, this whole video is incredible but that's a great point to sell that this thing has been handled a lot over the years. So much cool stuff in here.
Beginner my a**!!!! This is some legit pro work! Absolutely phenomenal job on this lightsaber. I'm stunned at the end result! Can't wait to watch more of your vids!
I appreciate the kind words! I’ve tinkered and done fiddle faddley things my whole life, but building detailed screen accurate props is totally new to me!
If you want a great way to apply sealer on the chalk, use an airbrush to apply airbrush thinner. It gives you much more control to build up the layers in a nuanced fashion. Great video!
Replicating brushed metal with sandpaper is genius, I've found that most methods to make 3d prints look like metal still don't look right, but this turned out great, definitley going to try this method
If you want to drill or cut threads into resin, do it before its been cured. It's more softer then it the cance of it braking is less :) The work looks great! This Lightsaber is still on my printing list.
Really great build, awesome attention to detail, really nicely shot vid too. Well done. Have you considered rotating the hilt mechanically via drill or other motor, then you only have to hold the sand paper against it to get perfectly circular scratches around it.
Thanks! I had considered using the same jig I used for dry brushing, and mounting the hilt in my drill press, but since it was my first attempt, I wanted to take it a bit slower since I didn’t want to accidentally obliterate the part haha.Maybe next time!
Scunge is a fun word I've not heard before. I like it! I do recommend if you make more of CaseStudyno8's sabers, they do print just fine flat on the build plate, as long as you add in proper drainage! Makes cleanup much easier. The layer lines also help sell that brushed metal effect. This turned out gorgeous, though!! Those scratches were brilliant
This vid got you a sub. I make custom 1/6 scale action figures, and I use pastel chalks all the time. My preferred method is to rub them across sandpaper instead of using an exact knife. You can get varying grains by using finer or courser sandpaper.
Great build! One thing I do suggest is mixing ABS like resin. It might not print the fastest but it will reduce brittleness significantly. I mainly use a 60% SunLu ABS and 40% Phrozen ABS resin. Flexy and relatively durable for resin prints.
Interesting idea! I’m currently experimenting with Anycubic’s ABS-like v2 and I love the durability of the finished product, but the printing experience has been awful compared to their high speed resin. I almost never had a print fail when I used high speed, but almost every other ABS-like print seems to fail half way through 😭
If you want truly random dings and scratches, roll the parts or even the completed item on a patch of gravel. I use this method to distress wooden items but it works on plastics and softer metals too. I haven’t tried it on printer resin- it will probably work better on uncurled parts. Just remember to wash carefully before applying any finishes.
I've never seen anyone use chalk like that! I have some sitting around for other cosplay stuff. I'm going to try to incorporate that in my next build! Thank you!
For the resin brittleness go check out Siraya Tech Tenacious 3D Printer Resin. Mix 10-25% into your resin and it will help a lot. Don't forget to run another calibration test afterwards.
wow I'm impressed. I'm definitely going to try and do this, dont have a resin printer 😕 I'll try FDM but could you tell me what resin printer you have? I'm 100% subscribing and I hope this channel gets the attention it deserves.
When doing flat sanding, try moving the part by 8. In this case, all points of the part go the same way and the chances of getting a convex surface are much lower.
When your sanding to get a smooth finish, does sanding direction matter with plastic? Coming from experience with wood, you have sand with the grain to make the finish look smooth
Never tried electroplating so I don’t know for sure, but I’d guess maybe easier to access the materials needed to paint? Don’t know! I’d be interested to try electroplating. Especially for a chromed look 🤔
What is the trick behind dry-brushing airbrush paints? I always wanted to do that because I have very little space to use my airbrush equipment, and whenever I try it you can literally SEE the metal pigments sink back down into the bottle.... For the rubbed-off raised elements, I usually apply my trusty Rub'n'buff, which most of the time looks great (here as well, less is more), and it can be applied with your fingers, which I enjoy on what is probably a kindergartener level. 😀This would have worked excellently for the handle nubs here, I think.
Vallejo’s Metal Color line is pre-thinned to airbrush consistency (I think), but I’m never putting more than a drop or two on my mat before dabbing my big brush into it and then applying to the model. So to answer your question, there’s never enough time for the paint to separate. I’ve definitely seen what you’re talking about though if the drops of paint sit too long!
Have you messed with graphite powder buffed into an clear acrylic coat yet? I did it with some "silver" dials to make them look like metal (I also did some cold casting of the same with resin + aluminium powder) Edit: if not familar you also need to put a base layer down of either black or for lighter silver, silver. I tested a few different colours and really those are the only 2 options nothing else really comes through but maybe if it was used in another way.
@@brungerbuilds I made a grid and tried a bunch of different undercoat colours and really it is just black or silver are the options. But there has to be more to it because I did one one day and got a brushed metal look and another day I did one and it was like a chrome for being so shiny.
You absolutely could! Especially if you're doing heavy sanding and concerned about dust spread. I'm always running a dust collector and wearing a respirator when I do any sanding. However, none of my sanding has been too intense, so it's probably a bit overkill, but better safe than sorry!
I don't know what would take more time and effort, this method or electroplating. Obviously one is more expensive and probably yakes a bit of trial and eeror to het down. Some of those liquid metals used are super.expensive. Regardless, great job and thanks for the tips
Never tried electroplating so I can’t say for sure, but I imagine dealing with all the chemicals would be a hassle. 30ish bucks for a 4 pack of Vallejo paint ain’t bad in my opinion! 🤓
@@brungerbuilds It certainly ain't cheap and the cheaper liquid metals you can't even handle by hand. I actually saw a short on here from CNC kitchen where he had given up on trying and that guy is way smarter than me so probably way harder than I imagined before posting that. I think platinum is 100 bucks for a super tiny amount. This is the way.
Stunning. Adam Savage would be proud. Bravo.
Thanks!
Holy moly that look do fuuu dope !!!! Respect
Thanks!
I especially love the way the two shrouds came out. The scratches went a long way
i never comment on videos but i can honestly say i was blown away. keep up the great work. i truly think you're about to blow up. this was incredible
Thank you! Means a lot ❤️
16:24 going back and hitting all the little nubs is such a good idea, this whole video is incredible but that's a great point to sell that this thing has been handled a lot over the years. So much cool stuff in here.
Beautiful work!
Thank you!
Amazing Work. really enjoyed the past 18 minutes :-)
Beginner my a**!!!! This is some legit pro work! Absolutely phenomenal job on this lightsaber. I'm stunned at the end result! Can't wait to watch more of your vids!
I appreciate the kind words! I’ve tinkered and done fiddle faddley things my whole life, but building detailed screen accurate props is totally new to me!
Yo, this is a good video. I think it's gonna blow up. Good work.
Thanks! Hopin so 🤞🏼🤓
If you want a great way to apply sealer on the chalk, use an airbrush to apply airbrush thinner. It gives you much more control to build up the layers in a nuanced fashion. Great video!
The end result is amazing! You definitely deserve more views and subs. Liked and subbed.
Replicating brushed metal with sandpaper is genius, I've found that most methods to make 3d prints look like metal still don't look right, but this turned out great, definitley going to try this method
Thanks! Good luck!
If you want to drill or cut threads into resin, do it before its been cured. It's more softer then it the cance of it braking is less :)
The work looks great! This Lightsaber is still on my printing list.
Pretty proud to be your 69th subscriber
Nice 😏
Really great build, awesome attention to detail, really nicely shot vid too. Well done. Have you considered rotating the hilt mechanically via drill or other motor, then you only have to hold the sand paper against it to get perfectly circular scratches around it.
Thanks! I had considered using the same jig I used for dry brushing, and mounting the hilt in my drill press, but since it was my first attempt, I wanted to take it a bit slower since I didn’t want to accidentally obliterate the part haha.Maybe next time!
Scunge is a fun word I've not heard before. I like it! I do recommend if you make more of CaseStudyno8's sabers, they do print just fine flat on the build plate, as long as you add in proper drainage! Makes cleanup much easier. The layer lines also help sell that brushed metal effect. This turned out gorgeous, though!! Those scratches were brilliant
Thanks for the tip! Currently working on dialing in my exposure settings for Anycubic’s ABS-like resin 😅
Sick video, I watched the whole thing. Never thought about using a low grit sandpaper for texture, and also never used the pastel chalk either.
Thanks! Chalks were new to me too, but they look so good and I love using them
Thanks for the info. Looks great.
This vid got you a sub. I make custom 1/6 scale action figures, and I use pastel chalks all the time. My preferred method is to rub them across sandpaper instead of using an exact knife. You can get varying grains by using finer or courser sandpaper.
Good tip!
Great build! One thing I do suggest is mixing ABS like resin. It might not print the fastest but it will reduce brittleness significantly. I mainly use a 60% SunLu ABS and 40% Phrozen ABS resin. Flexy and relatively durable for resin prints.
Interesting idea! I’m currently experimenting with Anycubic’s ABS-like v2 and I love the durability of the finished product, but the printing experience has been awful compared to their high speed resin. I almost never had a print fail when I used high speed, but almost every other ABS-like print seems to fail half way through 😭
If you want truly random dings and scratches, roll the parts or even the completed item on a patch of gravel. I use this method to distress wooden items but it works on plastics and softer metals too. I haven’t tried it on printer resin- it will probably work better on uncurled parts.
Just remember to wash carefully before applying any finishes.
Magnegicent!
I've never seen anyone use chalk like that! I have some sitting around for other cosplay stuff. I'm going to try to incorporate that in my next build! Thank you!
It’s my new favorite technique!
Incredible build and video capturing the process! Mind blowing to learn that you're a beginner in this cause your work would suggest otherwise
Thanks! I’ve been tinkering my whole life, but building screen accurate props and detailed models is totally new to me 😊
@@brungerbuilds You're a natural. Coming from a professional prop/model maker.
Appreciate it! Hopin to make some money from all this one day 🤞🏼🤓
@@brungerbuilds Honestly just keep up these great videos and i'm quite sure everything else will fall into place for you.
How the hell do you have only 56 subs i thought the whole time i watched some video with 100k+ views and idk how much subs
Hoping to get there one day! 🤞🏼🤓
For the resin brittleness go check out Siraya Tech Tenacious 3D Printer Resin. Mix 10-25% into your resin and it will help a lot.
Don't forget to run another calibration test afterwards.
Thanks for the tip! Currently experimenting with Anycubic’s ABS-like resin and my parts have been much stronger.
wow I'm impressed. I'm definitely going to try and do this, dont have a resin printer 😕 I'll try FDM but could you tell me what resin printer you have? I'm 100% subscribing and I hope this channel gets the attention it deserves.
I’ve got the Anycubic Photon Mono M5s!
When doing flat sanding, try moving the part by 8. In this case, all points of the part go the same way and the chances of getting a convex surface are much lower.
When your sanding to get a smooth finish, does sanding direction matter with plastic? Coming from experience with wood, you have sand with the grain to make the finish look smooth
Nope, not really. As long as you’re sanding up to 320 or 400 grit you should be good. The paint will fill in all the micro scratches.
It is also possible to electroplate 3D printed parts :)
I can't decide if this is harder or easier than electroplating.
Never tried electroplating so I don’t know for sure, but I’d guess maybe easier to access the materials needed to paint? Don’t know! I’d be interested to try electroplating. Especially for a chromed look 🤔
@@brungerbuilds This is def cheaper and less likely to poison you which is nice.
What is the trick behind dry-brushing airbrush paints? I always wanted to do that because I have very little space to use my airbrush equipment, and whenever I try it you can literally SEE the metal pigments sink back down into the bottle....
For the rubbed-off raised elements, I usually apply my trusty Rub'n'buff, which most of the time looks great (here as well, less is more), and it can be applied with your fingers, which I enjoy on what is probably a kindergartener level. 😀This would have worked excellently for the handle nubs here, I think.
Vallejo’s Metal Color line is pre-thinned to airbrush consistency (I think), but I’m never putting more than a drop or two on my mat before dabbing my big brush into it and then applying to the model. So to answer your question, there’s never enough time for the paint to separate. I’ve definitely seen what you’re talking about though if the drops of paint sit too long!
Have you messed with graphite powder buffed into an clear acrylic coat yet? I did it with some "silver" dials to make them look like metal (I also did some cold casting of the same with resin + aluminium powder)
Edit: if not familar you also need to put a base layer down of either black or for lighter silver, silver. I tested a few different colours and really those are the only 2 options nothing else really comes through but maybe if it was used in another way.
Never tried it myself, but I’ve seen it done a bunch on Mando helmets!
@@brungerbuilds I made a grid and tried a bunch of different undercoat colours and really it is just black or silver are the options. But there has to be more to it because I did one one day and got a brushed metal look and another day I did one and it was like a chrome for being so shiny.
@@EvilSpyBoy Interesting. Definitely gonna try it out one of these days!
I was always told it is best to wet sand resin.
You absolutely could! Especially if you're doing heavy sanding and concerned about dust spread. I'm always running a dust collector and wearing a respirator when I do any sanding. However, none of my sanding has been too intense, so it's probably a bit overkill, but better safe than sorry!
I don't know what would take more time and effort, this method or electroplating. Obviously one is more expensive and probably yakes a bit of trial and eeror to het down. Some of those liquid metals used are super.expensive. Regardless, great job and thanks for the tips
Never tried electroplating so I can’t say for sure, but I imagine dealing with all the chemicals would be a hassle. 30ish bucks for a 4 pack of Vallejo paint ain’t bad in my opinion! 🤓
@@brungerbuilds It certainly ain't cheap and the cheaper liquid metals you can't even handle by hand. I actually saw a short on here from CNC kitchen where he had given up on trying and that guy is way smarter than me so probably way harder than I imagined before posting that. I think platinum is 100 bucks for a super tiny amount.
This is the way.