a rebuild kit is like 25 bucks for those carbs, the unit probably just needed cleaning, rust and old gas will make it act just like you described especially if it sat. those original carbs were pretty good, simple as you can get. glad it worked out for you,
I just received the same one. Putting it on a chevy 250 as well. Was wondering which ports to keep blocked off and which one to use for vacuum. On the video it looks like you used the one next to the fuel line? Is that the only one?
Yes that's the only one I used for the distributor. If you have an auto trans that needs vacuum you will need to find a port as well also if you have vacuum brakes. Post a vid on how you like it
@@50chevydeluxe for the auto trans I would just find manifold vacuum from your intake manifold if you have a threaded port to tap into. If not, basically anyone of the ports on the carb that you're not using should work. Full manifold vacuum is what you need for the trans
@augustoescobar50 you're correct, sorry. I noticed that the vacuum for my tranny was hooked up to a port on the intake manifold. Hopefully it is a drop in and no adjustment is needed. If so, Hopefully it's just a bit.
Just ordered one and will be putting it on in two days, any vaccum lines to be closed off or it’s all good with just fuel line and linkage? thank you!!
Linkage was easy didn't even adjust mine. I did close off the port for power brake booster since I have manual brakes. Also the original carb had a threaded fitting for vacuum advance, I just put a hose to connect it to the new carb. Hope it works as well for you as it did for me 👍🏼
I’m having an issue with mine. Just bolted it on and it first back fired then ran for a few seconds and sputtered out. After cranking again for a sec fuel was coming out of the port right above the fuel inlet. Any ideas why? Won’t start at all and leaks a lot of fuel
Sounds like you may have too much fuel pressure maybe. These 1 barrel carbs like around 3-4 psi. Maybe you got a bad unit or the float needs adjusted. Was it doing the same thing with your old carb?
@@tylerbua788 I would put a fuel pressure regulator just before the carb or maybe try replacing the fuel pump with a new 6 cylinder one. A gauge wouldn't hurt either to check fuel pressure
He replaced it with a look alike monojet it appears I have a 69 with the original carb and it’s stamped gm and it says monojet looks almost exactly like the one he bought just a automatic choke from exhaust
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a rebuild kit is like 25 bucks for those carbs, the unit probably just needed cleaning, rust and old gas will make it act just like you described especially if it sat. those original carbs were pretty good, simple as you can get. glad it worked out for you,
I wonder if the original carb was a victim of ethanol in the gas.
I just received the same one. Putting it on a chevy 250 as well. Was wondering which ports to keep blocked off and which one to use for vacuum. On the video it looks like you used the one next to the fuel line? Is that the only one?
Yes that's the only one I used for the distributor. If you have an auto trans that needs vacuum you will need to find a port as well also if you have vacuum brakes. Post a vid on how you like it
@augustoescobar50 I appreciate you getting back to me. You know which port would be good for the automatic transmission vacuum?
@@50chevydeluxe for the auto trans I would just find manifold vacuum from your intake manifold if you have a threaded port to tap into. If not, basically anyone of the ports on the carb that you're not using should work. Full manifold vacuum is what you need for the trans
@augustoescobar50 you're correct, sorry. I noticed that the vacuum for my tranny was hooked up to a port on the intake manifold. Hopefully it is a drop in and no adjustment is needed. If so, Hopefully it's just a bit.
@@50chevydeluxe may have to adjust idle speed but that's it usually
💔Buddy Says I have an 81 Chevrolet six-cylinder carburetor fit on that too thank you 🙏🏼
Yes should bolt right up
💔Buddy Says i’ll let you know when I get it
Check your exhaust manifold. Sometimes they can get caked with carbon and soot
Just ordered one and will be putting it on in two days, any vaccum lines to be closed off or it’s all good with just fuel line and linkage? thank you!!
Linkage was easy didn't even adjust mine. I did close off the port for power brake booster since I have manual brakes. Also the original carb had a threaded fitting for vacuum advance, I just put a hose to connect it to the new carb. Hope it works as well for you as it did for me 👍🏼
I’m having an issue with mine. Just bolted it on and it first back fired then ran for a few seconds and sputtered out. After cranking again for a sec fuel was coming out of the port right above the fuel inlet. Any ideas why? Won’t start at all and leaks a lot of fuel
Sounds like you may have too much fuel pressure maybe. These 1 barrel carbs like around 3-4 psi. Maybe you got a bad unit or the float needs adjusted. Was it doing the same thing with your old carb?
Sounds like you may have too much fuel pressure or float level needs adjusted
@@augustoescobar50 yes same issue with the last carb
@@augustoescobar50 I appreciate the response. What can I do to bring down the fuel pressure?
@@tylerbua788 I would put a fuel pressure regulator just before the carb or maybe try replacing the fuel pump with a new 6 cylinder one. A gauge wouldn't hurt either to check fuel pressure
But what name is the carb?
ua-cam.com/video/JxfFTqFm7Cc/v-deo.html
The original one is a Rochester BV.....not a monojet
He replaced it with a look alike monojet it appears I have a 69 with the original carb and it’s stamped gm and it says monojet looks almost exactly like the one he bought just a automatic choke from exhaust
250 i6 will out last any v8 for sure
They do run forever!