2004 Toyota Prius Wheel Bearing Repair
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- Опубліковано 27 січ 2018
- Identifying very loud drive train noise and vibrations. Identifying and Replacing defective front hub wheel bearing assembly on 2004 Toyota Prius. IMPORTANT: Torque hubnut to 216 Nm (159 ft-lb)
Total time for the job: About 2-3 hrs for 1 side. Second side took me just under 1 hour.
Here are all the torque specs:
Wheel to wheel hub
103 Nm (76 ft-lb)
Ties rod end to steering knuckle
49 Nm (36 ft-lb)
Tie rod end lock nut
74 Nm (54 ft-lb)
Lower ball joint to control arm
89 Nm (66 ft-lb)
Front wheel hub to steering knuckle
56 Nm (41 ft-lb)
Front strut to steering knuckle
153 Nm (113 ft-lb)
Front lower ball joint to steering knuckle (castle nut)
71 Nm (52 ft-lb)
Front brake caliper to steering knuckle
109 Nm (81 ft-lb)
Front axle nut to wheel hub
216 Nm (159 ft-lb)
Weekend warriers like us need to earn our tools. You certainly earned a few more tools with this job, good work! I'd start with a good set of jack stands, it's a scotty kilmer job with only a jack.
Well explained, your voice is well suited for the videos
Great video! Very useful for me & my adventure replacing the wheel bearing on my '09 Prius. A couple pf things that this video does not cover:
Thank you gothard Schiller for this video it will help me to do my own car when future wheel bearings needs replacement.most appreciated.
Thank you for uploading the video. This will help me out when I need to replace mine.
For anyone doing this be sure to check for sticky front brake pads and assure your tires aren’t contributing to noise. I did mine recently and it helped but the other influencing factor was cupped tires due to worn struts.
Thanks a lot! It made me decide to do this myself in stead of taking it to a shop.
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Decent job! Very inspiring. However, everyone ! Please be sure to torque the bolts on the new hub and use jack stands so you dont have a nasty accident while beating on things.
Punch out the wheel studs, you can use a longer bolt with a nut to pry out the bearing, On my case it split the bearing in 2 which allowed me to lay it on top of a couple of 4x4 boards and hammer out the bearing. It would be more stable than holding onto the assembly and beating on it, In my case the bearing was really seized and it took a considerable amount of beating to remove, Good video,
Good job. A suggestion next time, instead of whacking the wheel bearing with a sledge hammer, why not leave the cap bolts loosely in (unthreaded say about 1/4 inch) and then strike at the bolt heads with a drift punch. By alternating from one side to the other, you can then "walk" the bearing assembly out of the spindle hub assembly. You might also be able to do this while the spindle is still attached to the strut.
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Just did mine, I had to resort to a 6 ton press, but it is all corroded like that because that's what aluminum does when it contacts steel.
At
wheel bearing ez, dont take the hub off like he did, take the 2 thick bolts out and hammer out the axle then unbolt and hammer the bearing out, its E Z, dont take off the bottom castle nut or steering thing
Very thorough, thank you, gotta do my gals "pretty lil" Prius. Keep her happy, and my wallet not so slim. Times is a gitting 'ruff out there..... Thanx guy..... You from up Jersey way?
Getting that bearing out is a SOB isn't it? Good work sticking with it. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Does it matter which brand bearing you buy
Machine that hub assembly seat face 3 thousandths over!
Good job in diagnosing & tackling problems with front wheels; some observations: