This car is very solid and original. So please continue your process of preserving its look and ensuring its originality lasts. There are so many that are restored with new parts and new paint that this car is unique. Make it reliable and keep it original. Excellent. 👍🏻
Back in the 70's I had a bunch of 120's. I ran my roadster for about 15 years and reassembled a number of these cars and am even currently putting together a '53 DHC that I rescued from the parts bins. The point of this tale is that we used to disassemble these cars if they have too far gone but did "take notes" as I went along. I have a small piece of Moss Green firewall I've saved, and keep it over my bench, just to remind me not to get too anal. One side has a bit of red oxide and haze rust finish on the inner of the firewall and the other has a blown over paint cover of the factory finish complete with sand and weld spatter in the finish. So your inner bonnet is PERFECTLY authentic. I can remain when I was working for the business I remember re-spraying whole XJ6's right off the boat because the finish was that bad...
I love your approach to restoration, so many people in your position would have said "It needs a full resto"... It clearly doesn't!! I love the fact that you are keeping the original factory finish as much as possible, including those crayon marks, how many cars still have those?... Not a lot! Great approach... I'm glued 👀
Hi Richard, I was surprised to see the black perforated Burndy cable strapping was used along the frame. As an electrician I last used that back in 1977. I never realised that it was used in British cars. I still have some of that floating around along with the pins. I love your attention to detail. The red and black Austin was a beautiful restoration. In Australia most of those are gone by now.
These E types are just things of pure beauty, in every way. No modern car comes even close no matter what it is. Just opening the bonnet to see the engine, it’s a work of art that just happens to be a great power plant!
I am just absolutely glued to this series. I believe your approach of retaining as much originality as possible consistent with retaining safe drive ability is absolutely the correct one. Future automotive historians will bless you. Jaguar cars at the time were amazing value for money but that was achieved at least partly by building down to a price rather than up to a standard. The production methods seem slapdash at times but that was the Jaguar way and they had driven many rival manufacturers out of business by their ruthless approach to costs.
I like your light restoration process and well done for resisting the temptation to completely restore, there are so few of these wonderful original cars left in the world. Kind regards, Richard
Greetings from an old fella in NZ. Thanks Richard for respecting our dream car, and it gladdens my heart to see your videos and the correct way to go about things.
Yes Richard, love the way your preserving this precious original "E type", it'll certainly be able to speak for itself when finished, a genuine piece of living automotive history, love it, great work mate...
After watching this, I am glad you are doing the mechanical restoration, taking care of the important issues, and leaving the car to run like it looks! Good job and good decisions!
IM SIMPLY AMAZED THAT MOST XKES DIDNT JUST POLL VAULT OFF THE ROAD! I HAD NO IDEA THE FRONT END ON AN XKE WAS TORSION BAR AND WISHBONE SUSPENSION. I KNEW XKES WERE BOUNCY BUT THAT LONG TORSION BAR SET UP FRONT GIVES ME PAUSE. IF I EVER AM LUCKY ENOGH TO DRIVE AGAIN AND OWN AN EXOTIC SUCH AS AN XKE 2PLUS2 I WILL MOST CERTAINLY DRIVE SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY. THESE CARS WERE MADE TO GAULK AT AND NOT BE DRIVEN TOO HARD. THEY ARE A MOVING SCULPTURE REPRESENTING THE STANCE OF A cat in motion. THATS MY OPINION NOT NECESSASARILY HOW OTHERS SEE IT. ANYWAY HOPE YOUR ABLE TO FIND SOME KARSKIN, I COULDNT FIND IT IN MY AREA BUT CHARLOTE NORTH OR SOUTH CAROLINA MY YIELD BETTER RESULTS. BYE!
"The most beautiful car ever made" deserves to be returned to her original beauty. Full restoration, please! Either way though, am enjoying the heck out of your vids. Thanks for posting.
Sorry Rich but hit the fixture above the stud on the ball joint. If you put pressure on it with a spreader just tighten it halfballs and strike that section with a hammer. It will shock the tapered joint out. Luv the work your doing. Most beautiful car ever built Jag e type convertible.
Superbes restaurations de véhicules Anglais avec des mêcanos á qui on apprend rien !!Bravo á eux et aux résultats de leur travail ...Congratulations ...
I agree with the light restoration approach on mechanicals, leaving as much original as possible and treating rust and painting or coating undercarriage areas where needed. Good you are leaving the original surfaces of paint and chrome on the outside…it’s only original once!
Great video, thanks, Keep the car Original, all T restored cars are essential the same, the Patina of your car is a thing of Great beauty and Value which can never be duplicated. Barry, Brighton UK
Thanks for sharing these videos. I am going through a full restoration on a pretty molested FHC, and videos like this are great reference for the way things are supposed to be. Please keep it up.
A brilliant approach to this car. If the next owner want to restore the paint they can but at least you are providing them that option. Thanks for sharing.
As a musician and E-Type buff (!!), it is so wonderfully reassuring to come to a serious and thorough E-Type restoration page that takes the 'signature melody' from Chopin's Op.10/2....
I love how you treat this Jag right! Keeping it running, and keeping its history. And saving money and effords. New paint can come at any time, if needed. By now, it is not. keep it up! Greetings from Germany!
Love the process, and your decision to only go so far n preserve. A full Resto would be great content, but it's only original once as stated by many of your viewers. Nice work, Richard👍
Hi Richard . It is hard to decide where to start and where to stop but it was always going to be that way . Those "ledges" are where the sill meets the wing and floor . Have to say l discovered the same "shoddy " assembly at the seams on my '66. Reading between the lines it seems that the "e" type was one of the first Jaguars to employ spot welding on a large scale . (Which l find puzzling as the earlier Jaguars certainly had spot welding ) Thanks Richard.
Great job Rich love your work.. I am a dad with a great relationship with my son and just love you both working together so well. I would love to hear your dads story? cheers from OZ
Epic content! Thanks! Your approach on this car is just amazing. Totally renovated and hence reliable driveline, while the "time capsule" feeling of the body and interior is meticulously preserved. - What about the XK150? Really looking forward to the progress of that project.
Richard - thanks for sharing. I am learning more about these cars every time you post with the hope that I will be able to follow your lead and rebuild my 1962 FHC to the same standard as you. Great work keep it coming
Very glad to hear you're choosing to retain its originality. Whatever argument you hear about 'pristine' restorations, once originality is gone, it's gone forever. Replacing wearables makes total sense of course...when rubber is cracked or hardened, brakerotors that are rusted, warped or worn thin, or anything else that affects function or driveability, it needs to be replaced. I even agree with your decision to keep the original chrome, pits and all. Great, great decision and thanks for sharing the process. I really enjoy your work.
What a simple task restoring that LOL, no rot...on a fkn e type...never before known..my friend bought a '61 flat floor in 1978 for £700, we lived in Council houses LOL value of these things are all over the place these days. UK
I like what you are doing, fixing & taking care of the items that will result in safety, "steering rack"/"suspension system", but keeping some of the painted surfaces original. At some point in the future the next owner can make any decisions or a total restoration if that persons wants to do so. Everything you are doing...I've been there with my '68 OTS for the last 35 years.
Nice video, and yes, for me restoration creep is very real. There are not alot of original examples of this car left, so yes, just restore what needs to be for safe running. Clean up the rest. Leave the paint as is and it will be a very sought after example
Richard, This is takes me back to my own E type restoration unfortunately my tub was so badly corroded i had no choice but to do a full nut and bolt restoration but to be fair how often do you find an example in this condition, It‘s very rare that they don‘t need a massive amount of new panels. btw my XK 150 bodywork is really coming together, Looking forward to seeing more of the XK DHC videos on the finish. Cheers Dave
I love watching your videos, mainly because the talking and working moves forward at the right pace. Some restorers do about 20% work and 80% talking and that puts me off completely. The E type front chassis has always looked very flimsy, and the whole lot looks as if it is only bolted to the firewall. Can you perhaps explain a bit how it is fitted to the car? To me it always looks like the front end of a Spitfire fighter, with the engine hanging out in the front. Thanks!
I love the approach you are taking on this car. Cars like this are one in a million. Restored cars are a dime a dozen. Well... probably $2M a dozen but you get my point!
Hi Rich! I prefer preservation over total restoration. Love the Red E Type parts fetcher! What is the name of the company that you use to restore / rebuilt your calipers? Thank You!
Outstanding work. My only concern is that your vehicles seem to have less space around them where someone who is walking by just might "hit, scratch or damage" the vehicle, especially when carrying something, etc. 350 square feet per vehicle might be a minimum area requirement to consider. Just a thought because I really enjoy (and respect!) your craftsmanship and restoration philosophy!
100% agree with you, survivors are getting harder and harder to find, but perfect restored cars are everywhere. And there is nothing cooler than saying it's all original, especially when it comes to the paint. I could see restoring it if it was in really bad shape but this thing is in remarkable condition
Once again a great video, I have already learned a lot, including how to restore an E type engine. Will you also make a video about the restoration of a gearbox? greetings from Germany
I hoped that you would "conserve" and you are doing so in style! Brilliant! It can be fairly original in another fifty years the way you are going! Be4st wishes from George PS: The Chrome needs manual work and treatment, not stripping and re-chroming. It will never be concours, but better than that. In the end someone will pay far more for it with so much originality.
With the chipping of the body in front and the fading chipping in the engine bay I would completely restore the car. It’s such a nice original XKE it would need so little body work it wouldn’t cost anywhere near the average E type restoration. Plus getting a good match of that metallic grey color will be difficult.
Richard, I have thoroughly enjoyed ALL of your videos and thought processes. Brilliant. Wondering if you are able to indicate what specific RUST CONVERTER you're using. Cheers.
With regard to paint, cant answer your specific question, but a retired factory worker told me there was enormous pressure to get cars out “through the door”, they just couldnt assemble them fast enough and short cuts on paint were taken he told me. I remember him mentioning rear wheel arches being missed to save time, you have probably seen evidence of it.
Really the 58 year old wiring harness needs to be saved???...those were not very good in 1962.... I just picture brittle coatings rubbing on the frame, corroded wires snapping, when the car starts vibrating again ...is that just me
Hi Richard, I respect your views very much regarding what to do/not do with the paintwork. However I’m curious about what the owner feels? Has he pledged to support your decision?
It needs to be safe to drive and drive fast.... because that is what it was designed to do..... But the Paint is it`s Story so needs to be kept as original as possible... A good detailing will bring it back to life and help to protect it. But Your workmanship is so good I am sure you will do the right thing.... :-)))))
I'd put a new wiring loom in, the original looms weren't good when new and suffered badly in wet weather so after 60 years the original one is going to be dangerous one short-circuit and you've a fire on your hands.
We get lots of cars here in the shop with original harnesses, relays, fuse blocks, etc and tend to have more issues with the new hardware vs the old originals.
Richard if you're having trouble with replacement wiring harnesses then they haven't been properly made, 60 years have gone past since that car left the factory and that's 60 years of the loom getting hot, cold and rubbing against parts of the body and chassis it's going to be getting pretty crispy if it were my car I'd want it replaced, it's a wearable component just like the suspension and brakes, if the owner is just going to park the car in the garage and look at it from time to time then wipe the whole car down with an oily rag and leave it be, but I'm guessing the owner would like to drive it and while the aroma of that old leather coupled with a whiff of engine oil and petrol are kind of charming, the smell of burning cables along with that telling wisp of smoke coming from behind the dashboard is less endearing, if it goes up in smoke it's gone for good.
@@markblack195 All the great unrestored classics still retain their original harness. Every year I walk through the preservation class at Pebble Beach and the last thing I consider is needlessly replacing wiring which does not wear. Same is true with vintage synthesizers.
Once the finish cures on those freshly painted parts a light scuff with 0000 steel wool or a fine cut pad will help blend new with old. The folks at Fender Guitars have made "relicing" a new art form. It's a hugely profitable business making perfect new guitars look worn from decades of use. Seriously. It's a thing.
restore it the engine and rear end is already done ,why not the body ,I'm all for originality if the car is near pristine but this car is a little to far gone to keep original in my humble opinion, but whatever you decide I'm sure you'll do a top job as always,
The condition of this beauty is just unreal. The attention to detail, again, is equally amazing to me.
This car is very solid and original. So please continue your process of preserving its look and ensuring its originality lasts.
There are so many that are restored with new parts and new paint that this car is unique. Make it reliable and keep it original. Excellent. 👍🏻
You have shown lots of TLC & respect for this lovely car: well done.
Back in the 70's I had a bunch of 120's. I ran my roadster for about 15 years and reassembled a number of these cars and am even currently putting together a '53 DHC that I rescued from the parts bins. The point of this tale is that we used to disassemble these cars if they have too far gone but did "take notes" as I went along. I have a small piece of Moss Green firewall I've saved, and keep it over my bench, just to remind me not to get too anal. One side has a bit of red oxide and haze rust finish on the inner of the firewall and the other has a blown over paint cover of the factory finish complete with sand and weld spatter in the finish. So your inner bonnet is PERFECTLY authentic. I can remain when I was working for the business I remember re-spraying whole XJ6's right off the boat because the finish was that bad...
i think senior should have his own channel very knowllegeble other than that great production love watching
I love your approach to restoration, so many people in your position would have said "It needs a full resto"... It clearly doesn't!!
I love the fact that you are keeping the original factory finish as much as possible, including those crayon marks, how many cars still have those?... Not a lot!
Great approach... I'm glued 👀
The best methodology for 'restoration' I have seen online - congratulations Richard
It's lovely to be able to watch people outside the UK restoring these beauties 👍I'd preserve as much originality as possible
Just seeing this. I’m with you on this one. Keep it as original as possible. Mechanically great. Cosmetically a sleeper.
Your doing a great job on this and anything you good neighbors do keep up the excellent work from Port Angels
Hi Richard, I was surprised to see the black perforated Burndy cable strapping was used along the frame. As an electrician I last used that back in 1977. I never realised that it was used in British cars. I still have some of that floating around along with the pins. I love your attention to detail. The red and black Austin was a beautiful restoration. In Australia most of those are gone by now.
It’s only original once, ya doing the right thing. Amazing no major rust.
You and your dad are awesome. As I refurbish my '65 XK e-type roadster I first watch your videos. You save me a lot of headaches and rework. Thanks.
I just love watching your videos and all your amazing work.From across the pond.
The underside of the bonnet just sums up the Jaguar production line.
Beautiful car in amazing condition, I'd do the minimum work to preserve it
These E types are just things of pure beauty, in every way. No modern car comes even close no matter what it is. Just opening the bonnet to see the engine, it’s a work of art that just happens to be a great power plant!
I am just absolutely glued to this series. I believe your approach of retaining as much originality as possible consistent with retaining safe drive ability is absolutely the correct one. Future automotive historians will bless you. Jaguar cars at the time were amazing value for money but that was achieved at least partly by building down to a price rather than up to a standard. The production methods seem slapdash at times but that was the Jaguar way and they had driven many rival manufacturers out of business by their ruthless approach to costs.
I like your light restoration process and well done for resisting the temptation to completely restore, there are so few of these wonderful original cars left in the world. Kind regards, Richard
I always enjoy your work on these classics. Good to keep as much original as you can.
Greetings from an old fella in NZ. Thanks Richard for respecting our dream car, and it gladdens my heart to see your videos and the correct way to go about things.
Yes Richard, love the way your preserving this precious original "E type", it'll certainly be able to speak for itself when finished, a genuine piece of living automotive history, love it, great work mate...
As always, another great job Mr. Owen. I love watching you work, but wouldn't dream of telling you how to restore your customer's car.
After watching this, I am glad you are doing the mechanical restoration, taking care of the important issues, and leaving the car to run like it looks! Good job and good decisions!
IM SIMPLY AMAZED THAT MOST XKES DIDNT JUST POLL VAULT OFF THE ROAD! I HAD NO IDEA THE FRONT END ON AN XKE WAS TORSION BAR AND WISHBONE SUSPENSION. I KNEW XKES WERE BOUNCY BUT THAT LONG TORSION BAR SET UP FRONT GIVES ME PAUSE. IF I EVER AM LUCKY ENOGH TO DRIVE AGAIN AND OWN AN EXOTIC SUCH AS AN XKE 2PLUS2 I WILL MOST CERTAINLY DRIVE SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY. THESE CARS WERE MADE TO GAULK AT AND NOT BE DRIVEN TOO HARD. THEY ARE A MOVING SCULPTURE REPRESENTING THE STANCE OF A cat in motion. THATS MY OPINION NOT NECESSASARILY HOW OTHERS SEE IT. ANYWAY HOPE YOUR ABLE TO FIND SOME KARSKIN, I COULDNT FIND IT IN MY AREA BUT CHARLOTE NORTH OR SOUTH CAROLINA MY YIELD BETTER RESULTS. BYE!
"The most beautiful car ever made" deserves to be returned to her original beauty. Full restoration, please! Either way though, am enjoying the heck out of your vids. Thanks for posting.
Sorry Rich but hit the fixture above the stud on the ball joint. If you put pressure on it with a spreader just tighten it halfballs and strike that section with a hammer. It will shock the tapered joint out. Luv the work your doing. Most beautiful car ever built Jag e type convertible.
You had me at 'aboot'. Just discovered this channel and am hoping I have another Tyrrell's Classic in store.
Superbes restaurations de véhicules Anglais avec des mêcanos á qui on apprend rien !!Bravo á eux et aux résultats de leur travail ...Congratulations ...
I agree with the light restoration approach on mechanicals, leaving as much original as possible and treating rust and painting or coating undercarriage areas where needed. Good you are leaving the original surfaces of paint and chrome on the outside…it’s only original once!
Great video, thanks, Keep the car Original, all T restored cars are essential the same, the Patina of your car is a thing of Great beauty and Value which can never be duplicated. Barry, Brighton UK
Thanks for sharing these videos. I am going through a full restoration on a pretty molested FHC, and videos like this are great reference for the way things are supposed to be. Please keep it up.
Always an excellent video Richard. Thanks to you and your dad for sharing this with us. Cheers
Excellent content.
A brilliant approach to this car. If the next owner want to restore the paint they can but at least you are providing them that option. Thanks for sharing.
As a musician and E-Type buff (!!), it is so wonderfully reassuring to come to a serious and thorough E-Type restoration page that takes the 'signature melody' from Chopin's Op.10/2....
I think your going down the right path Richard. It’s too good for a nut and bolt resto but perfect for a patina resto. Gonna be awesome! 🇦🇺🍺🍺
I love how you treat this Jag right! Keeping it running, and keeping its history. And saving money and effords. New paint can come at any time, if needed. By now, it is not. keep it up! Greetings from Germany!
awesome car, very rare opportunity in a lifetime. luv the garage 'jewelry'...you walked right past that beautiful '73 Grand Am!!
Love the process, and your decision to only go so far n preserve. A full Resto would be great content, but it's only original once as stated by many of your viewers.
Nice work, Richard👍
I am really enjoying this series, thanks for sharing it Michael.
Terrific Job ,,,,,,,,,,,, " Carry on E-Type " ......... from a Brit of a certain age !!!
Hi Richard . It is hard to decide where to start and where to stop but it was always going to be that way . Those "ledges" are where the sill meets the wing and floor . Have to say l discovered the same "shoddy " assembly at the seams on my '66. Reading between the lines it seems that the "e" type was one of the first Jaguars to employ spot welding on a large scale . (Which l find puzzling as the earlier Jaguars certainly had spot welding ) Thanks Richard.
Great job Rich love your work.. I am a dad with a great relationship with my son and just love you both working together so well. I would love to hear your dads story? cheers from OZ
Epic content! Thanks! Your approach on this car is just amazing. Totally renovated and hence reliable driveline, while the "time capsule" feeling of the body and interior is meticulously preserved. - What about the XK150? Really looking forward to the progress of that project.
Loved this video ~ great sensitive preservation
Richard - thanks for sharing. I am learning more about these cars every time you post with the hope that I will be able to follow your lead and rebuild my 1962 FHC to the same standard as you. Great work keep it coming
Very glad to hear you're choosing to retain its originality. Whatever argument you hear about 'pristine' restorations, once originality is gone, it's gone forever.
Replacing wearables makes total sense of course...when rubber is cracked or hardened, brakerotors that are rusted, warped or worn thin,
or anything else that affects function or driveability, it needs to be replaced.
I even agree with your decision to keep the original chrome, pits and all. Great, great decision and thanks for sharing the process. I really enjoy your work.
Love what you are doing. Definitely doing the right thing for the car.
What a simple task restoring that LOL, no rot...on a fkn e type...never before known..my friend bought a '61 flat floor in 1978 for £700, we lived in Council houses LOL value of these things are all over the place these days. UK
I totally get what you're doing -- and I like the way you think! :0)
I like what you are doing, fixing & taking care of the items that will result in safety, "steering rack"/"suspension system", but keeping some of the painted surfaces original. At some point in the future the next owner can make any decisions or a total restoration if that persons wants to do so. Everything you are doing...I've been there with my '68 OTS for the last 35 years.
Appreciate unique, informative video...
50s, 60s Jaguars built for quality
Nice video, and yes, for me restoration creep is very real.
There are not alot of original examples of this car left, so yes, just restore what needs to be for safe running. Clean up the rest. Leave the paint as is and it will be a very sought after example
Jason walked right past a Tiger?? WTH? And BRG no less. Mine is BRG too!!
Richard, This is takes me back to my own E type restoration unfortunately my tub was so badly corroded i had no choice but to do a full nut and bolt
restoration but to be fair how often do you find an example in this condition, It‘s very rare that they don‘t need a massive amount of new panels.
btw my XK 150 bodywork is really coming together, Looking forward to seeing more of the XK DHC videos on the finish. Cheers Dave
Ahh the smell of burning rubber ❤ I think with the re-coated parts aginst the old paint she is going to be a looker. 👍👍👍
That is a gorgeous car just as is. Renew the mechanicals.
The lightest of cuts and seal with wax definitely the way to go.
I love watching your videos, mainly because the talking and working moves forward at the right pace. Some restorers do about 20% work and 80% talking and that puts me off completely. The E type front chassis has always looked very flimsy, and the whole lot looks as if it is only bolted to the firewall. Can you perhaps explain a bit how it is fitted to the car? To me it always looks like the front end of a Spitfire fighter, with the engine hanging out in the front. Thanks!
I agree, keep the bodywork as is where possible and make it mechanically perfect.
I love the approach you are taking on this car. Cars like this are one in a million. Restored cars are a dime a dozen. Well... probably $2M a dozen but you get my point!
Hi Rich! I prefer preservation over total restoration. Love the Red E Type parts fetcher! What is the name of the company that you use to restore / rebuilt your calipers? Thank You!
Outstanding work. My only concern is that your vehicles seem to have less space around them where someone who is walking by just might "hit, scratch or damage" the vehicle, especially when carrying something, etc. 350 square feet per vehicle might be a minimum area requirement to consider. Just a thought because I really enjoy (and respect!) your craftsmanship and restoration philosophy!
Fantastic do what needs to be done and leave the rest as is
100% agree with you, survivors are getting harder and harder to find, but perfect restored cars are everywhere. And there is nothing cooler than saying it's all original, especially when it comes to the paint. I could see restoring it if it was in really bad shape but this thing is in remarkable condition
Once again a great video, I have already learned a lot, including how to restore an E type engine. Will you also make a video about the restoration of a gearbox? greetings from Germany
Beautiful
The white is primer that goes in between the oxide and the colour.
I hoped that you would "conserve" and you are doing so in style!
Brilliant!
It can be fairly original in another fifty years the way you are going!
Be4st wishes from George
PS: The Chrome needs manual work and treatment, not stripping and re-chroming. It will never be concours, but better than that. In the end someone will pay far more for it with so much originality.
Richard you never mentioned it!! A whole lot rarer than Austins or just about anything else!
With the chipping of the body in front and the fading chipping in the engine bay I would completely restore the car. It’s such a nice original XKE it would need so little body work it wouldn’t cost anywhere near the average E type restoration. Plus getting a good match of that metallic grey color will be difficult.
Hello! Regarding keeping the wiring harness, wouldn’t it have loss it conductivity given its age. My old VW’s (‘67) headlights dimmed quite a bit.
Hugely entertaining
Richard, I have thoroughly enjoyed ALL of your videos and thought processes. Brilliant. Wondering if you are able to indicate what specific RUST CONVERTER you're using. Cheers.
Is that a Pontiac Grand Am I saw.
Looks beautiful and very original.
It’s mostly dirt.
Do you use phosphoric acid as rust converter?
At 4:10 that grease thing is called a grease nipple.
its only original once and this is such a survivor, that I would only restore what is totaly toast...and clean up the rest.
Will you replace the coolant tubes in the firewall, and I noticed you painted the bonnet springs black, factory? Great stuff!
Have you considered dry ice blasting?
Richard, any recommendation on a brand of rust converter? My TR6 has some light surface rust in the battery area that I want to address.
With regard to paint, cant answer your specific question, but a retired factory worker told me there was enormous pressure to get cars out “through the door”, they just couldnt assemble them fast enough and short cuts on paint were taken he told me. I remember him mentioning rear wheel arches being missed to save time, you have probably seen evidence of it.
Really the 58 year old wiring harness needs to be saved???...those were not very good in 1962.... I just picture brittle coatings rubbing on the frame, corroded wires snapping, when the car starts vibrating again ...is that just me
That's funny when you say the bushings will be renewed, how do you do that? LOL Replace.
Hi Richard, I respect your views very much regarding what to do/not do with the paintwork. However I’m curious about what the owner feels? Has he pledged to support your decision?
At the beginning of episode 1 he said they bought it. So he is the owner.
Awesome job and please…. NO full restauration. In my opinion, maybe only paint a few parts! Great Job so far. Greets from Germany
It needs to be safe to drive and drive fast.... because that is what it was designed to do..... But the Paint is it`s Story so needs to be kept as original as possible... A good detailing will bring it back to life and help to protect it. But Your workmanship is so good I am sure you will do the right thing.... :-)))))
Definitely doing it the right way there’s to many total rebuilds out there yours will attract more attention and interest
I'd put a new wiring loom in, the original looms weren't good when new and suffered badly in wet weather so after 60 years the original one is going to be dangerous one short-circuit and you've a fire on your hands.
We get lots of cars here in the shop with original harnesses, relays, fuse blocks, etc and tend to have more issues with the new hardware vs the old originals.
Richard if you're having trouble with replacement wiring harnesses then they haven't been properly made, 60 years have gone past since that car left the factory and that's 60 years of the loom getting hot, cold and rubbing against parts of the body and chassis it's going to be getting pretty crispy if it were my car I'd want it replaced, it's a wearable component just like the suspension and brakes, if the owner is just going to park the car in the garage and look at it from time to time then wipe the whole car down with an oily rag and leave it be, but I'm guessing the owner would like to drive it and while the aroma of that old leather coupled with a whiff of engine oil and petrol are kind of charming, the smell of burning cables along with that telling wisp of smoke coming from behind the dashboard is less endearing, if it goes up in smoke it's gone for good.
@@markblack195 All the great unrestored classics still retain their original harness. Every year I walk through the preservation class at Pebble Beach and the last thing I consider is needlessly replacing wiring which does not wear. Same is true with vintage synthesizers.
I would have thought that a British car enthusiast like you would use the word ‘engine’. A ‘motor’ is an electrical device.
Like Solid Rocket Motors?
White paint after red lead - zinc oxide paint layer.
Once the finish cures on those freshly painted parts a light scuff with 0000 steel wool or a fine cut pad will help blend new with old. The folks at Fender Guitars have made "relicing" a new art form. It's a hugely profitable business making perfect new guitars look worn from decades of use. Seriously. It's a thing.
carb cleaner on a rag will take that rattle can overspray right off. Just don't get it on any plastic...
👍 👍 👍!!!
So I bought a 1967!
100% for preservation - it's only original once...
Yes, I think you are doing this right. Some smaller battle bruises on the outside and mechanically overhauled. Will be a nice car.
restore it the engine and rear end is already done ,why not the body ,I'm all for originality if the car is near pristine but this car is a little to far gone to keep original in my humble opinion, but whatever you decide I'm sure you'll do a top job as always,
In 1962 I fell in love but she was stolen away by a guy with a ‘62 E-type.