Liquid Metal on a Graphics Card?
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2018
- We've understood for years that Intel's terrible TIM was grounds for user replacement. Liquid metal quickly became the fan favorite for its excellent thermal conductivity properties. However, will this method also work to drop graphics card temperatures by similar margins? We use Gigabyte's RTX 2080 Gaming OC as our guinea pig!
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In order to appreciate LM, a set fan speed needs to be set. Otherwise fan rpm scales to thermals.
Clean off the contact points around the GPU and apply about 3 coats of nail hardener to act as a barrier to prevent inevitable LM spillage.
I have been thinking about your parents and their house Greg. My thoughts and prayers to their devastation.
You don't really need to protect the SMDs from liquid metal as once you apply it if you do it properly it won't go anywhere.
I think the variable fan speed thing was accounted for with the graph showing decibel values.
The thermals should be better, the fans should be spinning slower, and the noise should be lower also
Thanks, Bob! Fan speed was a variable we monitored and represented with our sound tests. There was no significant change.
@@OTechnology I have absolutly had little beads of runoff around the die. Its nearly impossible to get the coldplate lined up exact when reassembling the card so there is potential for it to run off when you slide the plate into place. Not only that but if you have a drop (I'm talking tiny almost microscopic drops) that pool to the edge of the die vibration over time i.e. from installation, cleaning, fans running, ect can cause that bead to role into other components. I know because I have 4 gpus, 2 laptops, a ps4 pro, and 4 cpus under my belt now and I have had this happen. Luckily I cought it before it was a problem, but your statement is a little misleading and there are to many variable to account for and nail hardner or a very thin high heat tape causes no harm and takes a minute to apply.
I don't know about you but I've used liquid metal on plenty of GPUs too and never killed one or even have excess squirt out onto the substrate. I think that you're probably applying too much. I agree though for someone who's less than confident on their application that might be a good idea.
No nail polish? This is dangerous and I LOVE IT!
My thoughts on listening to him talk about how close everything was to the die. XD
His hands still looked well manicured though.
liquid metal doesn't really "run" like it looks like it would. if you use too much, sure, youre pretty much boned. but if you have a few brain cells left upstairs to bounce ideas off each other, generally you wont need to protect the smt next to the die. in the cases where you do, clear nail polish works well, but so does black high-temp silicon. that's what I used to protect the smt around the die of all the intel chips ive delidded. (LOTS of those hot bastards) and then you can use the same stuff as a thin sealant around the IHS and re-lid the thing so it looks stock and performs like a delid.
@@andrewstubblefield4483 you're absolutely right. I thought the same. He fried the chip, and gave us those shity stats without proof 😂
yes clear nail polish is your friend
Aww, Pepsi just wants to help!
he was just curious
11:23 --> That's becouse you "cleaned" (more like, just wiped) the heatsink so bad that there was still a visible layer of thermal grease on it (that's why you couldn't aply th LM to the heatsink), then the heat transfer was bottlenecked by the thermal grease residue.
I'm pretty sure that the results would be different if you cleaned it properly.
Nice video tho.
@@F0x9o how can this is be a bs video if he has less that 70 degress on the gpu? haha
@@knightnxk2906 Cause he obviously didn't know shit about what he was doing and even stated such.....but continued to state his findings as accurate. Botched test as Gabriel pointed out why. I also got 10c better temps with LM on a EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra with better OC as a result.
I may have missed something, but we're clocks monitored/controlled? Maybe the LM created some thermal headroom which gpu boost took advantage of to boost higher? This in theory could have the same temps as noise as the stock tim
true :)
You are correct. Nvidia cards automatically boost their core clocks when they have thermal headroom via GPU Boost 3.0. So considering this he has better thermals + more performance without even realizing.
I don't think any of these actually thermal throttle below 80°C. 🤔
applying some nail polish over the parts you want to protect works well just incase some liquid metal spills over during the reapplication of the heatsink
@Mykel Hardin Well I didn't know. So there you have it. Just because you know doesn't mean everybody else does. And you're the only asshole around here.
this is what i was looking for lol
@@KyranSparda You have to be careful about the type of nail polish used. Forgot the reason though.
hi-temp black silicon works well too
If I put nail polish on my GTX 970, my whole house will burn in no time.
Gj you did it wrong and assumed it didnt do anything... Thats pro for yall
EVGA 1070 FTW
Before: 78
After: 70
mvp
@@SemuckiProductions No he's not an mvp, all of you just upvoted him without watching the video, but it's actually BS. Applying liquid metal makes no difference.
@@Szilagyicsabaistvan youre an Idiot, not all cards are the same, for some cards the thermal bottleneck might actually be on the thermal conductivity between die and cooler, on this one it dosnt seem so, but that dosnt have to apply to every card out there
@@Szilagyicsabaistvan that guy did some realy bad job applying it. i also noticed a signifikant temperature drop on my delided cpu and a biosflashed gtx 780ti
It really depends on the graphic card. I did apply conductonaut on my MSI Sea Hawk 2080Ti and I dropped temps by 10 degrees versus factory thermal paste. Even versus kryonaut, I have 5degrees less with Conductonaut.
I have a watercooled 1080TI FE at @2.1GHz and got a 5C drop in temps with liquid metal. I think the reason why you didn't get a drop in temperature is because your cooler is the limiting factor. The RTX 2080 has a rather large die and can transfer the heat over a large area (unlike mainstream Intel CPUs). It could also be the fan speed, unless you monitored it and set it to the same speed for all tests. These cards have a target temp and will adjust the fan speed accordingly.
*Liquid Metal on a Power Supply?*
Great Video!
Liquid metal on RAM heat spreaders!
Liquid metal on your liquid metal for MAXIMUM cooling
Transferring power using liquid metal cables could work
Not getting it, liquid metal on vrm cooling.
Liquid metal in a transformer?? Now that is a video to shoot
next time use conformal coating to prevent shorting.otherwise good video
Is nail polish okay?
ventisca they are similar
Clear nail polish specifically right? I dont think you can use any nail polish, not sure tho.
Just a little tip on applying liquid metal, heat up the die surface 1st then apply liquid metal. It helps in spreading it much more evenly and its easier.
So the clickbait screencap literally says "Bad Idea", but then the first think he mentions is that its not actually a bad idea.. And then says its actually fine.
I've ran liquid metal on my GPU for over a year, 1080Ti, no temp increases overtime
i already have conductonout on my 1060 for almost a year now lol :P
Using it with an Arctic Accelero Mono plus because the stock cooler absolutely sucked and started ratteling.
Runns powermodded at a constant 2.1ghz 1.093 volt without any downclock ever at 64°c max.
And yes its pretty silent also
And the turing has pretty big die, more contact area makes using liquidmetal not worth it
I actually found another video worth listening to on UA-cam. Thanks for sharing this. I was always kind of wondering about this kind of thing. I'm not really that much of an expert in delidding stuff and applying my own thermal paste to things but good information none the less. Cheers !!!
Liquid metal as lube
Possibly_A_Weeb It is fantastic as lube. I get 4 whole masturbates out of one application :)
My only worry is about galvanic corrosion after long term use
That's how the liquid metal terminator was made
@@RobyLV just the tip
@@brandonkinsman1270 terminator silver tip
Use nail polish or acrylic conformal coating onto all the little surface mount transitors and resistors
Im using conductonaut on my heavily overclocked 290x with accelero iv cooler, instantly dropped 13 degrees vs arctic's own supplied mx-4. Pretty worth it if you ask me
You don't gain that much by applying LM on GPU because there is no die cover. Cooler has a direct contact with the die. My temps went down by 3 deg Celcius on a 1080ti (ref) with a Accelero Extreme IV. More can be gained by optimising the case air intake
Using LM on my 1080ti w/Kraken x31 lost about 5-10° from x31 original paste still working great after over 1 year now
I think you got this kind of result because LM is not PROPERLY contacting to the cooler(copper) side.
If it wasn't properly contacting the cooler side, temps would be insanely high. Ever run a bare GPU through a stress test without proper cooler contact? Not pretty :-)
I may have missed it but did you let the card run on a fan curve or set to a constant percentage? i noticed when iv'e repasted in the past the card runs at the same temperature but with lower fan speeds.
hi Greg, thanks for your very informative clip but I gotta ask you before doin it myself, why haven´t you used nail polisher or similar stuff around the GPU?
I was seeing 5c vs mx-4 on my PC PCS+ R9-390. That heat sink was flat and also the gpu ran hotter then the 2080. funny thang is it was only 1c on both of my RX-580s vs mx-4. LM does spread on bare copper, you just have to clean it really good.
It was scrubbed with isopropyl.
I did as well. I had to scrub it 3 times before it would spread, i think i will try 100% acetone next time.
I did not protect my graphics card with nail polish prior to LM application. It was a disaster, the card ended up shorting the card and the LM was a huge pain to clean up. The card eventually worked after hours of cleaning with toothbrush, but its overclocking capacity took a huge hit.
I did this with a gigabyte 1080ti .. Temps actually got worse with the LM. the contact surface between cooler and die was very wide. so contact with the LM was nill. Using A lot of thermal paste corrected the issue, but cleaning off the LM was a PITA.
best upgrade for a gpu would be to put a watercooled block on it. My gtx 1080 FE have gone from non-OC - 92C to OC +140/+500 - 57C.
For me I go with liquid metal via a custom water cooling loop, once I've swapped from an aluminum kit to copper based and seen temps go from 60°C-68°C down to 38°C-45°C, my guess is the aluminum swap to copper helped a lot, but I still say liquid metal played a big part in this change of temps
Don't be afraid to use nail polish on the sides of the die. It prevents short crcuits with the little components.
would you recommend using electrical tape to cover the stuff on the sides of the GPU?
A little useful trick I found to assure the safety of the component your applying liquid metal to, make a tight border of electrical tape around the die. You can buy a wider electrical tape which is what I used.
At what speeds were you running the fans on the graphics cards? Did you lock them down to one speed or leave them on auto?
I have a tube of conductonaut on the shelf already from my older intel systems. gives me about 5-8c difference on my 2700x using a h100i. ill put it on the rtx 2080 when the stock paste starts getting bad. I usually don't let stock paste stick around for more than a year or so. im at about 7-8 months on the 2080.
@Science Studio, can you test with different thermal paste to verify of the stock thermal paste that comes on the card? also there seems to be a tiny gap in-between the heat pipes looks like a bad card design that means the LM or paste needs to fill in those gaps. Thank you for the video.
What about clockspeeds? Have they stayed the same before and after?
Yes. Kept pivoting between 1875 and 1890.
you can take some painter's tape and lightly tape around the edges to catch any accidental spillage and make sure the liquid metal doesn't hit anything it's not supposed to.
that moderboard lighting is awsome ,what procesor there is in ?
You didn't check to see what the frequency graph was. Could be possible its boosting a bit higher negating and temperature decrease
Nice video! Full send with no conformal coating around the GPU. Additionally can you let me know which Aorus mobo you were using to test this? Thanks!
8:32 I do the same I am glad you added that part. Showed it also. That will save me some time.
You need to add 3 layers of clear nail polish to the pcb around the die. That will protect the "little bits" from shorting.
It will apply to copper if it's properly cleaned, the pores still contain the residue from the previous compound. You must apply some press and lightly "scrub" it in the same spot to get it to adhere. I use 6000 then 8000 grit wet sand paper as the 2nd to last step when cleaning. Last step is last cleaning the copper with isopropyl alcohol. (Same same paper I used for die sanding the i9-9900KF)
Why didn't you use the Clear Nail Polish method to protect those vulnerable parts around the die?
*I am seeing a few others mention nail polish*
Made a custom water loop with ~400W of dissipation from radiators for my new 3800X @ 4.3 GHz all core slightly undervolted PC. Used an EK water block and conductonaut on my Gigabyte Windforce GTX 1080 OC. Protected some of the exposed contacts with PRF 202 conformal coating spray.
GPU temps went from 75°C to 45°C (in a ~28°C room, ~38°C water temp) during prolonged use with clocks from factory OC of ~1860 MHz to 2050-2063 MHz as the factory boost settings seem to have a strange effect on MSI Afterburner's offsets at times. GPU is at default voltage settings and could probably get to a stable 2100 MHz with a little bit of extra voltage, but the performance gains aren't worth it. There are hardly any temperature fluctuations as the heat is dissipated so fast from the GPU die.
Great reply. I've got my 1080 ti on a kraken x62 with the g12 mount, wondering if LM would make a difference on it. Your comment convinced me it will.
Love the content SS!
i've done LM to my 4790k and experienced great results (about 20c drop, some situations 25c) and i wanted to do it to my gpu but quickly ran into a stop realizing they use aluminium on heatsinks.
i have the same kind of line as you here, but a 2070 Super Gaming OC 8Gb not the 2080. I haven't taken it apart yet, but it looks like your 2080 one here has all those copper/orange pipes, not a flat aluminium metal. that means its safe? I read about copper needing multiple applications over time?
If it doesn't spread nicely (like was the case on the coldplate of the GPU cooler), I tend to just rub it with the queuetip to create some small frictionheat which always has helped me to keep it sticking.
idk if it's just coincidence but hey, it worked for me
Also with a gpu there is a much larger surface area on the die allowing for better heat dissipation. As well, it's already direct die cooling compared to having a extra thermal barrier like a IHS
just curious, what made you forego cards like the 980ti and instead choose the 2080?
Also it won't break the card permanently if you get LM on the caps around the die, just spray it off good with some brake clean and it will work just fine. It happened to me on the 780, and it didn't post, so I just sprayed it down pretty well, let it dry, and then it worked fine.
LM lowered fan speeds on mine to meet the target temps. Works great.
I have 65 up to 70 degree on full load without glass panel attached, but when it does it goes up 81 haha should I apply some expensive thermal past?
Interesting to see how this worked. Thanks for making new original and unique content Greg!
Did you looked the variation in the clocks?
A follow up, I would also suggest using liquid cooling with a block that doesn't resist the liquid metal. I'm going to bet a big help when liquid cooling.
Liquid cooling my Titan X Pascal brought it from 60C over ambient and throttling down to 10-12C over ambient using Kryonaut. Swapping to Conductonaut brought it down by 2 degrees. This is while applying a +250MHz overclock.
Idle temperature is 1C over ambient. Old idle temperatures were 10-15C over ambient.
Noise levels also went down from 60dBa at max fan speed on the stock cooler to 42 dBa at max fan speed on the water cooler. Only problem is that with the radiator at the front, it dumps a crazy amount of heat into the case.
Here is something to think about before applying LM to your GPU. I tried putting LM on my old zotac 1080 a couple of months ago just for fun. Temps dropped around 2 degrees C with the same fan curves. (I probably would have gotten the same or close to the same temps with just some good thermal paste). My gpu was fine for a while but then after about 3 weeks temps spiked up to 95+... yikes. I took the card apart and found that the LM had sort of infused into the copper base plate of the cooler. Not sure if this was the reason that the temps started rising. I had read a thread about this and so I was not alarmed and just cleaned up the LM and put some noctua paste on and everything was as good as new. I think this would not be a problem with nickel-plated copper as the layer of nickel would stop the reaction from happening. Anyone here in the chat who has had similar results? Also would be nice if @Science Studio could do a follow up on this as the base plate on his cooler was also copper.
Well it kinda depends, my card (an ancient XFX R7800 Series Tahiti LE) ran (with many different pastes) at an avarage of 100-105°c in CS:GO with a clock of 1100MHz (100+ OC). This was while using a custom fan profile with the fans hitting 100% at 80°c.
I then replaced the paste with LM Conductonaut and set the fanspeed to auto, and now my temps, while pushing higher clocks, land at about 65-78°c during the same loads.
It does make a difference, it's just not the "be all end all" solution. It is going to have a greater impact on some things/products, while giving little to no change with others.
I compared my application with static fan speed and the temps dropped 20C on my 5700xt. If you use auto fan you can expect the fan speed to drop for a quieter card as it does not need to expel heat as much.
Can anyone elaborate further on why it is hard to get conductonaut to stick to the copper heat pipes and if there’s a way around it?
on my 1660ti SC Ultra i was seeing temps as high as 67-71C using ICDiamond in my case setup. after applying liquid metal, temps dropped to max 51C.
my core runs stable at 2130 and my memory at 1250.
Wrong. When you apply LM, you need to readjust fan curve. To compare temps you need to set fans manually to constant value, then you can see the difference.
I've tried it before and was kind of unimpressed. Little messy and didn't drop temps as much as I hoped
LM has never been worth it for GPU's. They use Direct Die cooling, whereas Intel CPU's tend to get better results due to the Additional Thermal interface with the Lid. But alas its a learning experience.
I used LM on my old gtx 780 lightning, the stock thermal paste was similar to the stuff Intel puts on their CPUs. It dropped temps about 10c for me overclocked, and I was able to push it further than stock paste with the unlocked bios. However, I just bought a 980 ti and judging by its already really low temps I probably won't benefit from this much.
@@MarshalBeard Tried it on a 290x lightning, gigabyte 780 ghz edition, zotac 980, and evga 980 ti. Every time it was about a 5 degree drop over factory paste, but a good paste like gc extreme or nt-h1 would probably work just as well.
i used LM on my r9 390. it dropped from 87 degrees under load to 69.
it is, the difference is you apply it once and you're done with it while paste dries up after a while and you have to redo it a couple of times in its lifetime
I currently have an XFX Radeon R7 370 2GB graphics card. It is constantly spinning at high speeds, but the temperatures seem normal (37C - 42C). Is it a video driver glitch or should I swap out the thermal paste and put in liquid metal? Also should I consider the thermal pads?
Y don't you cover the area around the die with non conductive material before applying liquid metall for protection?
Do you have any experience with Galax cards? I have a Galax GTX 1080 ti EXOC for 18 months, should i consider changing the paste on it? Temps seem a little hotter than this time last year!
Back when I bought my Asus GTX 970, it was definitely needed to replace it as the brand new card had a dried up thermal paste. Running with MX-4 since then with no issue.
Little tip, you can use regular thermal paste to insulate the small components, keeps them cooler too. It’s not perfect but it’s way better than leaving them naked.
I liked the previous icon in the corner, but I also like your new avatar. Nice 4-sided symmetry that both have.
And your inner voice is asking the same question mine was, "why not?" 😂👌
maybe a performance to noise ratio... like it was all cool about the noise and temps but would love to see fps ratings as well
My watercooled 1080 had a 14C delta to the water temp, with LM the delta is at 5C.
I'll be honest, I do apply liquid metal on every graphics card I can.
The reason? It's much quieter, and it usually boosts more.
I do apply some regular thermal paste (and then spread it to avoid disturbing the LM application on the cooler) on the resistors or small components around the die to avoid shortages or spillage. It has always worked for me.
Another thing to point out is that I usually sand out the cooler, so the LM can have a much better contact.
Interesting.
My old 980Tis dropped 10 degrees after applying LM, this was super usefull in SLI. My current 1080Ti is also running on LM (+custom Loop) and is always running on liquid temp instead of a delta of 5C, which is also something.
Is the risk worth the difference compared to some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut? Last I checked you might get about a single degree or two if you get lucky, but it has been a while since I checked.
Why did you not use clear nailpolish to make protective film around the gpu in case the liquid metal seeps out when applying cooler or in time.
I think he just wanted to fry his card to make some content 😂
0:59 which case is that in the corner by chance?
should have set the fans to a set percentage to avoid the gpu from using its stock fan curve. Plus, you didn't clean the copper heatpipes very well you could still see it when you were trying to apply the liquid metal.
Can't believe you did this without any research in regards to the fact that you should have used something like clear nail polish to paint over the small bits around the die to keep the LM from possibly spreading out from the die and making contact with them and causing a possible short. Also, I think there is more benefit to using it on the GPU in a laptop. I have an MSi GE-73 VR with the 6 core 8750 and a 1070 with the cpu and gpu under LM and never see temps higher than 70-73 for either the cpu of gpu which is excellent temps for a laptop.
My exhaust fan of my case is only pushing hot air out can I LM it to make the air cold?
Just tip here, if you can't apply LM on ihs or die, try use watercolor brush apply, after apply go for another 1 or 2 drop on ihs or die middle of surface (do not spread), done.
Weird there was so little difference. Used LM on an EK Titan X Pascal block and it dropped temps about 8C vs the EK paste. Would not recommend for beginners this stuff.
You should spray an insulating layer on those small dots.
Well I don't know about liquid metal, but when I got my xfx card the thermals weren't great and I swapped the stock paste out for kryonaut within the first week and it runs significantly cooler at idle, and that means less time with fans running. Load temps of course haven't changed much but the fans run at a lower RPM consistently
I never done this but my logic says if LM doesn't make contact when you try apply with the buds(heatsink copper) . Then, the LM won't connect properly when you attach it to the gpu. Maybe that's why you don't see any thermal improvement.
You might want to redo this properly and clean thoroughly before applying to both side.
I applied LM to my 2080 Ti XC Ultra and temps under load went down by 8C. The XC Ultra has a very beefy heatsink on it already, the LM has some more room to stretch before the heatsink is saturated. 3dmark timespy stress test with fresh regular Arctic Silver 5 TM had final temps peak at 73C @ 130% TDP +140Core/+900 memory. Admittedly this is pretty outstanding for an air cooler already. Once LM was applied the temps peaked at 65C. Fan speed was set too 100% for both tests.
Why don't you apply some nailpolish around the gpu die, just to make sure you don't short something out?
Your not making complete contact heatsink to die since the copper pipes were resistive to spread with LM
Hate to nitpick but I wish you had hit the components and traces with engine enamel. As well as the block underside.
woudn't some very fine sanding paper make lm stick more on copper heat pipes?
It works way better on a watercooled card since on an air cooled card the bottleneck then shifts to the cooler which is undersized on most GPUs.
"Sennheiser Studio"
What about the copper could that be a reason why the temps didn't come down. Is there another cooler that doesn't use copper? I was thinking ahead, you have use what's with the card it's not a CPU cooler. But interesting wright?
The silicon die has 3D letters printed on it. This prevents a flat contact. And throws any benefit of Liquid Metal out of the window sometimes depending on the actual GPU and cooler cold plate style. He also did not prime his heatsink with LM too. So the copper cold plate would eventually soak any LM up over time. And the GPU would slowly get hotter and hotter until it throttled.
I wonder why you didn't check the clocks over time, were they the same as without LM?
The clocks were identical (between 1875 and 1890) as were fan speeds.
This contradicts my results using LM on a 970 and rx 580. I got a 4C drop on the 970 and about a 9C drop on the 580. In both cases I saw nothing wrong with the existing stock paste. I don't remember having the same trouble spreading conductonaut on either card. Both cards have bare copper base plates so maybe the alloy used in those heat pipes is different and prevents adhesion. Also, I've found that temps with conductonaut rise over the course of several months. I don't have the same problem with coollaboratory pro (the blue cap stuff). My hypothesis is that thermal expansion and contraction from temperature cycles makes conductonaut migrate away from hot spots on the die. Coollaboratory liquid pro has microbeads that may mitigate the migration by breaking up the surface tension. So far I think this is specific to GPUs since nothing is said from people doing cpu delids, the larger die size of GPUs may give the LM enough space to clump and dry in certain areas. This is the first time I've seen someone get a 0C delta.
6:26 cou can cover the SMDs with nail polish , if the LM squeezes out your GPU is done for
Der 8auer used nail polish and applied that to the smaller bits around the GPU die. That way they're protected, just in case.
i thought the video was messed up with the black screen at the start.....refreshed my page like 3x lol
I have LM on my watercooled 1080, temps are just awesome. I will check back in a few months when getting a RTX but so far just for the temps I Always would do it again.
2 years later....