Congratulations! If you ever sell this it will be a total nightmare for the poor bastard that has to try to repair it. On a serious note. Your work is extremely nice and top notch! 👍🏻👍🏻
Always nice to see someone who outside effort into understanding rear suspension geometry. That looks well thought out, and executed well. Great build!
Amazing... With Your work and attention to perfection I’ll put you in my car hero book along with “Smokey Yunick”. Right now you’re the only two in there.
Incredible.... can you build one for my 70 Monte Carlo really refreshing to see someone put a video up that doesn’t have a lot of bullshit just straight up great camerawork and information And beautiful fabrication
Great work, without a doubt one of the best I've seen. This kind of whats link suspension i think is fantastic. Much better than Panhard bar. This type of chassis is only for your vehicle??? Or it would fit in another car. hugs I'm waiting for the other video of the final assembly ok!!!!
It's been all together and I've been beating on it for a few years now. Working great, I love the adjustability. Here is a video of it in action ua-cam.com/video/7NRTxf0oT14/v-deo.html
Where did you get the front clip and rear clip? I could do this on my 1971 Skylark I'm building and would love to change the rear out for some tubs and the front end could definitely use an upgrade as well. I love the work you did here and definitely given me some ideas
I wouldn't recommend the front clip necessarily...I had a few issues with it, and I'm actually repairing it right now after I broke it last summer. The rear was completely designed and built by myself. Thank you for the compliment!
@@aaronoberle3558 how did you come up with yhe specs and lines like you did for the rear of the frame? Or do you not have drawings for that? Like what type of steel was used and was it mig or tig welded? I just got this 71 skylark and recently just picked up a welder and I'm trying to learn all I can about how to weld and figured this would be a difficult project to learn on...which is crazy I know but doing easy stuff doesn't get you talent and again that entire frame is amazing and especially the back half since you came up with it yourself just makes it that much better
@@twisteddreamz9977 well, I knew what I wanted to improve, researched it then did some calculations for instant center and anti squat. Drew everything up in SolidWorks and created a functional 3D model to confirm articulation and clearances. Detailed everything out from there, had parts made (or made myself) and built it. Lots of research and planning. Can't even tell you how many hours are in it. A lot.
Is this a cheaper option over buying a chassis from roadster shop or art Morrison did the front clip come fabricated or did you have to weld it together and then sub it to your original chassis
Well, it's probably not cheaper unless you are doing all the fab/installation work yourself like I did. Yes, the clip came welded, and I did attach it to the parts of the OG chassis. I did have to make some improvements after some failures over time when autocrossing.
Very late reply and doubt you'll see this but what's the reasoning behind using the middle section of the stock frame and not connecting the F&R clips with some sort of 3x5 box tube or something? Obviously its boxed and looks fairly beef on your rig but depending on who you ask that's considered the weakest part of the factory frame. On a different note, that 3 link is giving me some ideas about my own chevelle chassis
Well, it was one of those scope creep things...trying to stay on track to get it done. Plus there is 3 body mounts along those rails. I thought at the time it was best to leave them alone. Being a full chassis, and boxed already, I didn't think the juice was worth the squeeze! Plus the car has a Ridetech Tigercage installed. That added a ton of stiffness to the car. That was done before this chassis was even built.
@@aaronoberle3558 I appreciate the response, that makes perfect sense. What kind of chassis mods did you run on the car prior to the 2.0 chassis? And how much better does the car perform with the 2.0 underneath? I ask because I'm in the process of doing a bunch of reinforcements to my stock frame beyond a normal boxing kit, and it seems like a 3link wouldn't be very difficult to fabricate for the stock frame.
@@rustysausage69 1.0 was basic bolt ons. Front upper, lower and rear control arms. A bumpsteer kit and as much caster as I could get were the biggest improvements alignment wise. I ran taller upper and lower balljoints to help with camber gain. It worked great as an improvement over original. 2.0 version is nothing like the first. With the 315 tires front and rear there is no comparison, way better. The 3-link works and feels amazing. Very planted. As you are making improvements think about where they will be most valuable. Anything behind the rear axle control arm mounts does nothing for chassis stiffness. Wasted time, material and weight IMO. The best thing you could do is build vertically, as in a cage. Adding in the "Z" dimension pays big dividends.
@@aaronoberle3558 Thank you for the insight, the Z axis reinforcements are HUGE. Do you know what your chevelle weighs? Weight reduction is a significant part of some stuff I'm doing cosmetically and under the hood, that's what's keeping me from doing a full 6 or 8 point cage, i plan on dumping 300lbs total with everything i have in mind.
@@rustysausage69 yes mine weighs in right at 3500 with a full tank. 51.3% fr, 48.7% rr. The Tigercage alone weighs 135lbs. Big tires, wheels and brakes all add weight too, but I think the benefits outweigh the negatives.
Congratulations! If you ever sell this it will be a total nightmare for the poor bastard that has to try to repair it. On a serious note. Your work is extremely nice and top notch! 👍🏻👍🏻
I’m sure he has a complete build manual detailing all part #s and necessary info.
Beautiful work
Always nice to see someone who outside effort into understanding rear suspension geometry. That looks well thought out, and executed well. Great build!
Thank you, I appreciate the kind words. After driving it hard in autocross and road racing, I'm happy to report it works awesome!
Just beautiful so well done the details are off the chain
LOL nothing crazy the frame that's worth more than my house absolutely beautiful I got to win the lottery
Dude just find this ! Work of art, should handle like a dream !
Amazing... With Your work and attention to perfection I’ll put you in my car hero book along with “Smokey Yunick”. Right now you’re the only two in there.
Incredible.... can you build one for my 70 Monte Carlo really refreshing to see someone put a video up that doesn’t have a lot of bullshit just straight up great camerawork and information And beautiful fabrication
Well thank you sir. I wish I could build you one. Took a tremendous amount of time to do. Fun project though. Thank you for the nice comment.
Top Notch Fab work Aaron.
Thanks Scott! Means a lot coming for a master like yourself
Very nice work dude. Very nice.
That looks very nice
Looks great goodcon you!!
Great Work
that is so sick
Awesome job
Thank you
Your welcome
Nice! Cant see this car operate next year. I may steal some of your rear end design
F'ing WOWWWW!!!!!!! Wow!! That is by far extremely impressive and sexy!
Great work, without a doubt one of the best I've seen. This kind of whats link suspension i think is fantastic. Much better than Panhard bar. This type of chassis is only for your vehicle??? Or it would fit in another car. hugs I'm waiting for the other video of the final assembly ok!!!!
It's been all together and I've been beating on it for a few years now. Working great, I love the adjustability. Here is a video of it in action ua-cam.com/video/7NRTxf0oT14/v-deo.html
Sooooo sick🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Nice chassis new sub here
Incredible!
Hello, greetings from Bolivia, how much would a reinforced chassis cost me?
Looking good man
cool man
Where did you get the front clip and rear clip? I could do this on my 1971 Skylark I'm building and would love to change the rear out for some tubs and the front end could definitely use an upgrade as well. I love the work you did here and definitely given me some ideas
I wouldn't recommend the front clip necessarily...I had a few issues with it, and I'm actually repairing it right now after I broke it last summer. The rear was completely designed and built by myself. Thank you for the compliment!
@@aaronoberle3558 how did you come up with yhe specs and lines like you did for the rear of the frame? Or do you not have drawings for that? Like what type of steel was used and was it mig or tig welded? I just got this 71 skylark and recently just picked up a welder and I'm trying to learn all I can about how to weld and figured this would be a difficult project to learn on...which is crazy I know but doing easy stuff doesn't get you talent and again that entire frame is amazing and especially the back half since you came up with it yourself just makes it that much better
@@twisteddreamz9977 well, I knew what I wanted to improve, researched it then did some calculations for instant center and anti squat. Drew everything up in SolidWorks and created a functional 3D model to confirm articulation and clearances. Detailed everything out from there, had parts made (or made myself) and built it. Lots of research and planning. Can't even tell you how many hours are in it. A lot.
Totally Great
Is this a cheaper option over buying a chassis from roadster shop or art Morrison did the front clip come fabricated or did you have to weld it together and then sub it to your original chassis
Well, it's probably not cheaper unless you are doing all the fab/installation work yourself like I did. Yes, the clip came welded, and I did attach it to the parts of the OG chassis. I did have to make some improvements after some failures over time when autocrossing.
@@aaronoberle3558 can you give me a rough prize for that front clip trying to decide my options over a Detroid speed front clip
Very late reply and doubt you'll see this but what's the reasoning behind using the middle section of the stock frame and not connecting the F&R clips with some sort of 3x5 box tube or something? Obviously its boxed and looks fairly beef on your rig but depending on who you ask that's considered the weakest part of the factory frame.
On a different note, that 3 link is giving me some ideas about my own chevelle chassis
Well, it was one of those scope creep things...trying to stay on track to get it done. Plus there is 3 body mounts along those rails. I thought at the time it was best to leave them alone. Being a full chassis, and boxed already, I didn't think the juice was worth the squeeze! Plus the car has a Ridetech Tigercage installed. That added a ton of stiffness to the car. That was done before this chassis was even built.
@@aaronoberle3558 I appreciate the response, that makes perfect sense. What kind of chassis mods did you run on the car prior to the 2.0 chassis? And how much better does the car perform with the 2.0 underneath?
I ask because I'm in the process of doing a bunch of reinforcements to my stock frame beyond a normal boxing kit, and it seems like a 3link wouldn't be very difficult to fabricate for the stock frame.
@@rustysausage69 1.0 was basic bolt ons. Front upper, lower and rear control arms. A bumpsteer kit and as much caster as I could get were the biggest improvements alignment wise. I ran taller upper and lower balljoints to help with camber gain. It worked great as an improvement over original.
2.0 version is nothing like the first. With the 315 tires front and rear there is no comparison, way better. The 3-link works and feels amazing. Very planted.
As you are making improvements think about where they will be most valuable. Anything behind the rear axle control arm mounts does nothing for chassis stiffness. Wasted time, material and weight IMO. The best thing you could do is build vertically, as in a cage. Adding in the "Z" dimension pays big dividends.
@@aaronoberle3558 Thank you for the insight, the Z axis reinforcements are HUGE. Do you know what your chevelle weighs? Weight reduction is a significant part of some stuff I'm doing cosmetically and under the hood, that's what's keeping me from doing a full 6 or 8 point cage, i plan on dumping 300lbs total with everything i have in mind.
@@rustysausage69 yes mine weighs in right at 3500 with a full tank. 51.3% fr, 48.7% rr. The Tigercage alone weighs 135lbs. Big tires, wheels and brakes all add weight too, but I think the benefits outweigh the negatives.
How do I get one of these for my 70 T/A?
Those r sum wide tires.
18x11 front and rear
Smells like alotta cheddar
That's the type of build that destroys a marriage.
😄
She's cool with it!
@@aaronoberle3558 she’s 1 in a million.
Now go into production...
Yikesss....
What is a G-Velle?.