ANTI DIY HVAC the name is the game. Obviously I live in Las Vegas NV and without AC here you won't make it through the summer. Also as a married father of three and supporting 2 senior citizens and 1 brother in law I had to learn how to take care of my hvac from top to bottom or I would have paid out a lot of money in parts and labor. Every dollar counted as I worked two jobs to keep us out of the red and I have never needed government assistance. So people like you have made things like that possible for families like us. Sharing your valuable knowledge helps everyone tremendously even if you don't know it. I just want to say I appreciate you and your video's. Your helping people like me keep their heads above water. Great job and keep up the great video's!
Great job. when I use to own, I use to wash out/rinse my unit at least once a month or so just to keep the coil clean and any dirt or residue that could potentially prevent any flowing of air inside of the cage. Never had any issues for the 7 years of ownership.
Hello from Russian "cool master" ). I have been repairing air conditioners for 15 years. we use a portable pressure washer of the Karcher type to clean the outdoor unit.
Your a good man. Watching your video and listening to your verbal comments should be given to all schools as to show that honesty is a way of life...Regardless of ones trade. Bob
I used to use a product that was as brown as syrup. It was as strong as anything Ive seen. Bad for a unit that Young to already have issues.You did a great job for sure.
Similar quality of work on the units installed in the houses around here (just outside Columbia). New build (2012) 3100 sqft, 2-story home, 5-ton unit with insufficient return (1 - 20x20 return, 1 - 20x14 return) both upstairs. Froze over first summer after installation, installer claimed filters were too restrictive. Caused water damage in upstairs guest bath ceiling. Two summers later, unit is freezing again. Further water damage in guest bathroom. Water damage seems to be caused by a gap in the insulation over some of the piping in the attic, allowing that section to freeze over and subsequently melt straight onto the insulation in the attic and the sheet rock below. Initial installer was still servicing the unit at this point, and has determined it needs to be recharged. Never checks for leaks, continues to service as is and just top off as it loses refrigerant. At this point, I got a second opinion from a contractor that builds HVAC systems for custom homes. He performs a leak check and confirms a leaking evap coil. Recharges the system, but won't replace the coil unless I contract him to rebuild all of the duct work as well. Builder, original installer, and builder's new HVAC subcontractor all state the system is good to go except for the leaking coil, and that they're only designed to last 4-5 years tops at this point. Unit is now just a few weeks outside the initial warranty. I contracted a coil replacement with a different local HVAC shop that also confirms insufficient return, shoddy duct work. They replaced the original copper coil with a new aluminum coil. It isn't even a year old from DOM, and unfortunately this one is leaking now as well. Replacement worked fine all last year, no freezing issues. Noticed that this year it was no longer draining, so scheduled a check and service, but it froze over before they could get here. Had them come out on an emergency call for frozen unit, and they confirmed it was low and shot dye into the system to chase the leak. Warranty replacement is currently ordered, waiting for it to come in. This last company has been doing their best to correct the immediate issues, without costing us an arm and a leg. That being said, based on the interaction with almost every other HVAC tech that's been on site for this system, I could probably spend a week doing some research and studying and personally draw up a more reliable configuration and install than the local "experts". I understand there's a formal education and certification process for HVAC techs, but seeing most of these guys throw the knowledge out the window, a well researched DIY-er is probably better off on their own around here.
I’m going to try all the stuff at home.....After I get my journeyman’s. I probably could as a first years apprentice, I have a couple epa certs and a good grade in trade school, but there’s still a lot to learn.
Appreciate the video; good experience without having to go through the ordeal, a little something to keep in the back of my mind - we sell Day and Night, so very relevant.
Hi, many moons ago, I was sent to a JOBa MDs ac unit,,I could NOT BELIEVE WHAT I WAS LOOKING AT, ON THAT ROOF WERE 20 EXHAUST VENTS FROMA COMMERCIAL LAUNDRY, I HAD TO CALL OUT FOR A CLEANINGbut my company KNEW about that job ! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
A lot of people DIY because of excessive service charges. I had an AC repair man come out and charge me $350 in parts, $200 in labor along with $75 service call to replace a burned board in my air handler. Repair man came out and swapped the board in 20 minutes and left. Later I did simple google search for a neighbor that was having the same problem and found the board he replaced on amazon $23. This should of been a $200 fix with time and labor not a $625 repair.
Welcome to free market capitalism. The man has to make his money, the company still has to make their money. Pay for shop bills, the trucks, ads, gas, supplies, insurance for employees. So much more goes into it.
Steven is right. Raw ingredients cost pennies on the dollar but people can accept a $10 pub burger with no fries. Guys working out of their garage will always be cheaper
@@richardlafleur2864 True enough, but you can't fault people for cooking at home. Same way can't fault DIYers from researching and attempting their own repairs. Just like changing your own oil, learning to do a little routine maintenance can save you a ton over time.
yeah our ac went out and i know many hvac technicians and basically they all say since our ac is to old people wont work on it so im not about to pay 10k for a new air conditioner when i can spend $40 and fix it however i do understand thats how these people make money
That orange Triple D cleaner is what we use at our outfit. It has a PH above 13 and contains potassium hydroxide so keep it from your eyes and any pets or kids.
in Las Vegas I find that most problems are in the evaporator coil, even after a company has done a service. Why? because who wants to climb into an attic in 100+degree heat?! I have found clogged coils so bad that it' was as thick as a door mat! I haven't seen any company do a service to include the evaporator on a split unit. Thanks for the info!
Damn. That is ripping that crap off that thing. Noice. I need to vacuum out the leaves and junk in mine. TLC said its fine but I want to eat off that thing on the inside if I need to.
What is that black finish on these units? I live by the ocean and have a icp coastal unit condensor and even that one has silver/bright fins (not black)
Sounds funny to say this but this is why I use the evaporator cleaner on the condensers which is non-acidic so it does not have this effect on the coilas far as the paint job Especially if it is one of my annual customers that I know the coil stays clean yearly
Just a hose wand and water. Careful if you have high pressure, you can bend the fins if you're not careful, just use the shower setting. I would only use a cleaner if it is exposed to crap on a regular basis, like some sort of grease/oil/dust buildup. My unit can get dusty but that's just loose dust and doesn't hurt anything. I've used compressed air but that can also bend fins if not careful.
Curious what kind of finish that black stuff was - vinyl, powdercoat, enamel,...??? BIG difference as to what. Have NO idea why a manufacturer would put a plastic-like finish on a coil.
I had a 2 ton condensing unit that had 1/8 inch of dust, pollen and dirt on it, and rather than use a heavy, caustic mix sprayed on it, and waiting a couple of hours for it to do its magic, i just pulled the cover off, used some household cleaned and a soft brush, a warm flow of water and some careful elbow grease and had the unit absolutely sparkling clean in one hour. I suggest this to the regular homeowner.
If it dissolves paint like that must have some potash lye in it! When I cleaned rail cars we used a 3-step process, an acid mix to start, a potash lye mix next (took the paint right off) and water rinse. The RR company liked it, as it saved sandblasting time. Wore a full-length Weather suit, as that lye would burn holes in your skin if it got on you!
I just use water and never use chemicals. My Air condioner is almost 20 years old it's only been charged one time. Only because the tech convinced me to add a tiny bit more.
As long as they offer a neutralizer of some kind !! I'm fairly sure a bucket mixture of water and baking soda will stop any of the acid activity with that foam brite. We use that on vehicle batteries in the event there is acid activity on or around them. I can also see that most of the homes being worked on do not have great water flow/pressure on their hose bibs. My guess is, if there is a decent pressure washer that can be adjusted or doesn't have enormous damaging spray pressures, in the hands of Ted or skilled folks, a weak solution of cleaner and a good push of water will clean those coils much better than any garden hose.
Thanks for the telling about the foam brite being a good engine degreaser. I plan on rebuilding the engine on my 95 f150 soon and it and its surroundings are covered in oil from a leaky front seal. Typical of any vehicle with 250,000 + miles on it.
I just cleaned mine (second time in like 15 years). Lot of gunk came out between the slats, used some foam cleaner and a water hose. Also put some more insulation on the drainage pipe since the old one had almost rotted off. Temps have been like 95 every day and the AC usually runs like 15 hours straight, and at the peak of the day, it has trouble maintaining temperature in the house. Didn't really make any difference that I could see.
@@kevinfinnerty3754 I had a guy come out after that and he said it was down on charge. Once he put more in, the AC got noticeably cooler. I wish I'd got him to come out at the start of the summer, probably would have saved enough money to pay for his visit since the AC basically ran from about 8 am to 2-3 am every day. It wasn't super low, and this is the 2nd time I've had him come out to put more coolant in, in 16 years. Seems like it needs a recharge about every 6-8 years.
Love your videos, you may have made a serious error when charging this condensing unit as your SMAN was using degrees celsius.. not fahrenheit 😟 the subcooling was likely too high already as 0C is 32F, I wonder it was a TXV or piston on the evap, oh well this video was from a while back and the condensing unit is probably toast now anyway
it doesnt matter if the condenser says its suppose to be 12 subcooling. You go inside and look to see if there is an actual txv installed. then you can for sure use subcooling
Why would you put a black finish on a radiator coil to begin with? I would think that would be the LAST color to paint something that will be transferring heat.
I have same ac unit just r22 and i had to fill it every 3 months which cost me 250 each time and it works for a while rhan pipe starts freezing by the unit outside i never really looked at cleaningnes of mine would this be the cause if mine does what it does guy checked it with leak detector and couldnt find any leaks i really dont want to spend 7k if i dont have to so any help would be gladly accepted
Just rinsing off with water from opposite the air flow will take you a long way to get rid of the worst dirt. Doesn't matter if it's an air conditioner or a car radiator.
On the coil cleaning, Good tip, although I don’t see many units where the coil is completely exposed like this one, most other brands are covered with slotted grills that make it difficult to apply and rinse the cleaner. Goodman and Trane are two that come to mind.
Who knows the real story. The counter guys may have refused him the sale and he could have gotten someone in the parking lot to buy it for him.Good video.
I have had good luck with 407C.Some folks can not afford a new system.I will cross out R22 with a permanent marker and scratch 407 next to the label for the next guy.It is a burden to keep a reclaim bottle for every R22 replacement under the sun .
I would be EXTREMELY careful if you intend on using Foam-brite on engine bay. You'll 100% want to cover and seal up all electrical components from it's war path and also I wouldn't let it sit on anything rubber for more than a few seconds at a time. If you're going to agitate it after applying it, go area by area with application, agitation, and rinsing. Just my 2 cents as a pro detailer. Super clean nondiluted will work just as well.
I use a common garden hose jet spray nozzle using my 80 psi water feed. It seems to clear out all the gunk without any need for chemicals (can clearly see through coil fins after cleaning). Is there something in this environment that requires a caustic chemical? Even then, I'd be tempted to use a pressure washer with a wide angle tip and keep it a few feet from the coil.
I was just thinking i do service and i keep a specific hose nozel on my truck that i can use on anyones water system to make a high pressure stream and i have never had to use chems for cu coils.. Though i would not use a pressure washer, the fins are strong but not that strong. With just the weight of the coil, when i replace these i always bend fins being as careful as possible.
ANTI DIY HVAC the name is the game. Obviously I live in Las Vegas NV and without AC here you won't make it through the summer. Also as a married father of three and supporting 2 senior citizens and 1 brother in law I had to learn how to take care of my hvac from top to bottom or I would have paid out a lot of money in parts and labor. Every dollar counted as I worked two jobs to keep us out of the red and I have never needed government assistance. So people like you have made things like that possible for families like us. Sharing your valuable knowledge helps everyone tremendously even if you don't know it. I just want to say I appreciate you and your video's. Your helping people like me keep their heads above water. Great job and keep up the great video's!
Cleaning condensers is so satisfying
satisying?
Great job, I like the honesty. You're one of very few who actually do a great job. Thank you.
Favorite phrase of this video - CRAPPY CONTRACTOR!!! AINT THAT THE TRUTH! Sometimes you gotta KNOW what you're doing!!!
Great job. when I use to own, I use to wash out/rinse my unit at least once a month or so just to keep the coil clean and any dirt or residue that could potentially prevent any flowing of air inside of the cage. Never had any issues for the 7 years of ownership.
Man with a job like that I bet ice cubes are gonna be falling from the ceiling! Job well done sir!
Hello from Russian "cool master" ).
I have been repairing air conditioners for 15 years. we use a portable pressure washer of the Karcher type to clean the outdoor unit.
Your a good man. Watching your video and listening to your verbal comments should be given to all schools as to show that honesty is a way of life...Regardless of ones trade. Bob
I used to use a product that was as brown as syrup. It was as strong as anything Ive seen. Bad for a unit that Young to already have issues.You did a great job for sure.
Good clean, seen allot of old Goodmans like this had to use heavy cleaner to remove primer/paint. Good job,Ted
I always use pure concentrated foam-brite on all kinds of coils with no ppe except safety glasses and they always come out new
👍Some caustic stuff! It’ll sure sting when it hits the arms and/or face! Good job✌️& leave it to the pros!
That yellow death is some killer stuff !!
You did a great job!
The cleanest that coil has been in years!
Wow, that coil cleaner is aggressive. Nice job.
Nice job ted....well done
Similar quality of work on the units installed in the houses around here (just outside Columbia).
New build (2012) 3100 sqft, 2-story home, 5-ton unit with insufficient return (1 - 20x20 return, 1 - 20x14 return) both upstairs. Froze over first summer after installation, installer claimed filters were too restrictive. Caused water damage in upstairs guest bath ceiling. Two summers later, unit is freezing again. Further water damage in guest bathroom. Water damage seems to be caused by a gap in the insulation over some of the piping in the attic, allowing that section to freeze over and subsequently melt straight onto the insulation in the attic and the sheet rock below. Initial installer was still servicing the unit at this point, and has determined it needs to be recharged. Never checks for leaks, continues to service as is and just top off as it loses refrigerant.
At this point, I got a second opinion from a contractor that builds HVAC systems for custom homes. He performs a leak check and confirms a leaking evap coil. Recharges the system, but won't replace the coil unless I contract him to rebuild all of the duct work as well. Builder, original installer, and builder's new HVAC subcontractor all state the system is good to go except for the leaking coil, and that they're only designed to last 4-5 years tops at this point. Unit is now just a few weeks outside the initial warranty.
I contracted a coil replacement with a different local HVAC shop that also confirms insufficient return, shoddy duct work. They replaced the original copper coil with a new aluminum coil. It isn't even a year old from DOM, and unfortunately this one is leaking now as well. Replacement worked fine all last year, no freezing issues. Noticed that this year it was no longer draining, so scheduled a check and service, but it froze over before they could get here. Had them come out on an emergency call for frozen unit, and they confirmed it was low and shot dye into the system to chase the leak. Warranty replacement is currently ordered, waiting for it to come in.
This last company has been doing their best to correct the immediate issues, without costing us an arm and a leg. That being said, based on the interaction with almost every other HVAC tech that's been on site for this system, I could probably spend a week doing some research and studying and personally draw up a more reliable configuration and install than the local "experts". I understand there's a formal education and certification process for HVAC techs, but seeing most of these guys throw the knowledge out the window, a well researched DIY-er is probably better off on their own around here.
Idk why but coulmbia has shit installers
That was some valuable lessons on coil cleaning.
I’m going to try all the stuff at home.....After I get my journeyman’s. I probably could as a first years apprentice, I have a couple epa certs and a good grade in trade school, but there’s still a lot to learn.
How you called it a Comfort "Taker" at the beginning was accurate as it wasn't making any comfort!
Appreciate the video; good experience without having to go through the ordeal, a little something to keep in the back of my mind - we sell Day and Night, so very relevant.
You are so very helpful! Thanks!
Hi, many moons ago, I was sent to a JOBa MDs ac unit,,I could NOT BELIEVE WHAT I WAS LOOKING AT, ON THAT ROOF WERE 20 EXHAUST VENTS FROMA COMMERCIAL LAUNDRY, I HAD TO CALL OUT FOR A CLEANINGbut my company KNEW about that job ! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
A lot of people DIY because of excessive service charges. I had an AC repair man come out and charge me $350 in parts, $200 in labor along with $75 service call to replace a burned board in my air handler.
Repair man came out and swapped the board in 20 minutes and left. Later I did simple google search for a neighbor that was having the same problem and found the board he replaced on amazon $23.
This should of been a $200 fix with time and labor not a $625 repair.
Welcome to free market capitalism. The man has to make his money, the company still has to make their money. Pay for shop bills, the trucks, ads, gas, supplies, insurance for employees. So much more goes into it.
Steven is right. Raw ingredients cost pennies on the dollar but people can accept a $10 pub burger with no fries. Guys working out of their garage will always be cheaper
@@richardlafleur2864 True enough, but you can't fault people for cooking at home. Same way can't fault DIYers from researching and attempting their own repairs.
Just like changing your own oil, learning to do a little routine maintenance can save you a ton over time.
yeah our ac went out and i know many hvac technicians and basically they all say since our ac is to old people wont work on it so im not about to pay 10k for a new air conditioner when i can spend $40 and fix it however i do understand thats how these people make money
Everything is expensive in the U.S in Europe a new medium quality unit cost that...
That orange Triple D cleaner is what we use at our outfit. It has a PH above 13 and contains potassium hydroxide so keep it from your eyes and any pets or kids.
Odd seeing a sidewalk on only one side of a neighborhood street. That was a whole lot of cleaning you did, good job.
The pink stuff was actually mirrattic acid, and if you have got it on you hands teal good, you haven’t experienced pain!
in Las Vegas I find that most problems are in the evaporator coil, even after a company has done a service. Why? because who wants to climb into an attic in 100+degree heat?! I have found clogged coils so bad that it' was as thick as a door mat! I haven't seen any company do a service to include the evaporator on a split unit. Thanks for the info!
Good info, I didn't know that about those units.
Damn. That is ripping that crap off that thing. Noice. I need to vacuum out the leaves and junk in mine. TLC said its fine but I want to eat off that thing on the inside if I need to.
The service performed was perfect. There is diyers that do really great work also, they watch your work and learn from it lol.
I love seeing filth ooze from the coils!
What is that black finish on these units? I live by the ocean and have a icp coastal unit condensor and even that one has silver/bright fins (not black)
Sounds funny to say this but this is why I use the evaporator cleaner on the condensers which is non-acidic so it does not have this effect on the coilas far as the paint job Especially if it is one of my annual customers that I know the coil stays clean yearly
So my question after this video is, what SHOULD you use for a routine cleansing of an ICP unit? Mine never gets real dirty any way.
Just a hose wand and water. Careful if you have high pressure, you can bend the fins if you're not careful, just use the shower setting. I would only use a cleaner if it is exposed to crap on a regular basis, like some sort of grease/oil/dust buildup. My unit can get dusty but that's just loose dust and doesn't hurt anything. I've used compressed air but that can also bend fins if not careful.
Good job
Curious what kind of finish that black stuff was - vinyl, powdercoat, enamel,...??? BIG difference as to what. Have NO idea why a manufacturer would put a plastic-like finish on a coil.
I had a 2 ton condensing unit that had 1/8 inch of dust, pollen and dirt on it, and rather than use a heavy, caustic mix sprayed on it, and waiting a couple of hours for it to do its magic, i just pulled the cover off, used some household cleaned and a soft brush, a warm flow of water and some careful elbow grease and had the unit absolutely sparkling clean in one hour. I suggest this to the regular homeowner.
Not an icp coil around me or next to no knowledge of this but can say i know more now
Do your gauges read sub cool & super heat as well pressure??
Digging your channel man. Wish UA-cam was a thing when I was running a truck. Have you ever considered a GoPro headband?
I was thinking the same thing! 😁
can u use a degreaser to clean the fins
Was that a single-row condenser coil?
Great video. Thanks. Watching this at 1,45 am on july 2, 2022 and look at the price of gas seen 13:46. It's $2.44/gal. Great times.
If it dissolves paint like that must have some potash lye in it! When I cleaned rail cars we used a 3-step process, an acid mix to start, a potash lye mix next (took the paint right off) and water rinse. The RR company liked it, as it saved sandblasting time. Wore a full-length Weather suit, as that lye would burn holes in your skin if it got on you!
@antidiyhvac if you want to neutralize that a is spray , mix some warm water and some arm and hammer in a sprayer , that neutralize the acidity .
I just use water and never use chemicals. My Air condioner is almost 20 years old it's only been charged one time. Only because the tech convinced me to add a tiny bit more.
When in doubt that is always the safest way. I like Nucalgon Special HD Calclean for the outdoor coil and EvapFresh for the indoor coil
As long as they offer a neutralizer of some kind !! I'm fairly sure a bucket mixture of water and baking soda will stop any of the acid activity with that foam brite. We use that on vehicle batteries in the event there is acid activity on or around them. I can also see that most of the homes being worked on do not have great water flow/pressure on their hose bibs. My guess is, if there is a decent pressure washer that can be adjusted or doesn't have enormous damaging spray pressures, in the hands of Ted or skilled folks, a weak solution of cleaner and a good push of water will clean those coils much better than any garden hose.
Thanks for the telling about the foam brite being a good engine degreaser. I plan on rebuilding the engine on my 95 f150 soon and it and its surroundings are covered in oil from a leaky front seal. Typical of any vehicle with 250,000 + miles on it.
Great Job cleaning that coil ! Where are you located ? That road at the end sure does look familiar!
Was thinking the same thing. Every tract housing development probably does.
Happy 4th Mr Ted........
I just cleaned mine (second time in like 15 years). Lot of gunk came out between the slats, used some foam cleaner and a water hose. Also put some more insulation on the drainage pipe since the old one had almost rotted off. Temps have been like 95 every day and the AC usually runs like 15 hours straight, and at the peak of the day, it has trouble maintaining temperature in the house. Didn't really make any difference that I could see.
It’s probably low on charge
@@kevinfinnerty3754 I had a guy come out after that and he said it was down on charge. Once he put more in, the AC got noticeably cooler. I wish I'd got him to come out at the start of the summer, probably would have saved enough money to pay for his visit since the AC basically ran from about 8 am to 2-3 am every day. It wasn't super low, and this is the 2nd time I've had him come out to put more coolant in, in 16 years. Seems like it needs a recharge about every 6-8 years.
Does that not kill all the grass around it?
Love your videos, you may have made a serious error when charging this condensing unit as your SMAN was using degrees celsius.. not fahrenheit 😟 the subcooling was likely too high already as 0C is 32F, I wonder it was a TXV or piston on the evap, oh well this video was from a while back and the condensing unit is probably toast now anyway
Not really sure that painted fins cool better or what the reason is for paint.
Vinegar will neutralize the degreaser.
How much did you charge for that job?
Thank you.
Highway 417, i live in the ft inn area. Where are u located?
I love foam brite
it doesnt matter if the condenser says its suppose to be 12 subcooling. You go inside and look to see if there is an actual txv installed. then you can for sure use subcooling
I love blue death.
That Foam-Brite is expensive stuff!
Is the blue Nu Calgon safe to use on these carrier units and not remove the black coating?
No !! Use Triple D.
Why would you put a black finish on a radiator coil to begin with? I would think that would be the LAST color to paint something that will be transferring heat.
I have same ac unit just r22 and i had to fill it every 3 months which cost me 250 each time and it works for a while rhan pipe starts freezing by the unit outside i never really looked at cleaningnes of mine would this be the cause if mine does what it does guy checked it with leak detector and couldnt find any leaks i really dont want to spend 7k if i dont have to so any help would be gladly accepted
Just rinsing off with water from opposite the air flow will take you a long way to get rid of the worst dirt.
Doesn't matter if it's an air conditioner or a car radiator.
I couldn't agree anymore
21 Delta - and I'll see ya !!!!!
Exactly.
The yellow stuff is a non acid high alcolin(sp) coil cleaner
Well, by definition, alkalies cannot be acidic so that's a superfluous adjective.
What are the readings for blue and red gauges for R22
This is funny lol
That would be LYE:
Sodium hydroxide - 15~20% (LYE)
Did you have to make adjustments to system charge after cleaning...?
Sometimes yes.
On the coil cleaning, Good tip, although I don’t see many units where the coil is completely exposed like this one, most other brands are covered with slotted grills that make it difficult to apply and rinse the cleaner. Goodman and Trane are two that come to mind.
Kleen brite pink death. But I miss con coil
Id have used that heavy stuff out the gate. It works good
Who knows the real story. The counter guys may have refused him the sale and he could have gotten someone in the parking lot to buy it for him.Good video.
True.
I have had good luck with 407C.Some folks can not afford a new system.I will cross out R22 with a permanent marker and scratch 407 next to the label for the next guy.It is a burden to keep a reclaim bottle for every R22 replacement under the sun .
What a shame. We can sure see from this one where "Anti" gets his name.
Those painted coils, half black/ aluminum after the nubrite, I’ve had customers complain
Did you guys notice? He ran a stop sign over a video🙈😀
I saw that too!
He's notorious for rolling thru stop signs. Almost every video shows him rolling thru at least one.
Known as a calif stop. I get honked at when i come to a full stop !
Can’t even stop at stop signs nowadays, people get all shit faced and butthurt cause you stopped for longer than half a second
11:40
I would be EXTREMELY careful if you intend on using Foam-brite on engine bay. You'll 100% want to cover and seal up all electrical components from it's war path and also I wouldn't let it sit on anything rubber for more than a few seconds at a time. If you're going to agitate it after applying it, go area by area with application, agitation, and rinsing. Just my 2 cents as a pro detailer.
Super clean nondiluted will work just as well.
I had a customer spraying her condensor with oven cleaner. I said no thanks & walked away quickly.
Well, if you're going to use lye such as Foam-brite, why does it matter if she used lye that many oven cleaners contain?
I use a common garden hose jet spray nozzle using my 80 psi water feed. It seems to clear out all the gunk without any need for chemicals (can clearly see through coil fins after cleaning).
Is there something in this environment that requires a caustic chemical? Even then, I'd be tempted to use a pressure washer with a wide angle tip and keep it a few feet from the coil.
I was just thinking i do service and i keep a specific hose nozel on my truck that i can use on anyones water system to make a high pressure stream and i have never had to use chems for cu coils..
Though i would not use a pressure washer, the fins are strong but not that strong. With just the weight of the coil, when i replace these i always bend fins being as careful as possible.
How about Mr.Clean?
The old pink stuff took aluminum and all off
could you have not taken the cage off ??
Am I the only one or does others have a hell of a time getting them damn guards back on.
Chad Brackin Only slightly worse than the wire guards are the Goodman louvered garbage.
@@sivalley goodman is the worst with that.. even just putting the blower and coil panels back on is a pain in the ass
Is it just me or were those gauges in Celsius?
Yep, they were. Yikes!!!
It looks like your condenser is in defrost. I guess the video just slows the fan blade down
Where did you buy the sprayer
Its just a pump sprayer youd use for gardening
I always thought the blue 💩 was the strongest coil cleaner
That cleaner is a completely knockout to grease!
I got a cleaner from where I work in the oilfield with Caustic in it that may do that work huh? Lol
Only suppose to use water to clean those coils
Man i wish you could fix mine....im on my 3RD HVAC crew....no one can fix mine.
Any polymath customer can change a cap and 90% wont screw it up.
Baking soda. Baking soda is great at killing acidity. I guess, to apply it in this application, one can dissolve it in water or just use it as powder.
that coil is probably gone by now,that stuff eats it away
I'm surprised they even sold him anything without a contractors license
Hey Gene, no offense taken. I was just saying that because in my area some of the supply houses won't let you buy anything unless your licensed
the internet is a wonderful place