Great work, really enjoy your move by move narration. You can never be to detailed. Rebuilding a 73 roadster and 74 GT at the same time on a shoe string budget so your videos are an outstanding help! Thank you!
I have just completed the full rebuild of front end of my 72 MGB GT. Thanks to your knowledge and video i managed to centre the steering rack, (after many attempts before I watched this video) I now have an even 1 and 3/4 turns of the steering wheel each way. However new flexi brake hose on both sides are rather stretched on full lock, will need to see if there are slightly longer ones. Thanks again.
Asking for your help: I’ve got a ‘73 MGB with 2 SU (HIF4) carbs… At startup, choke-on, underneath the rear Skinner Union are fumes coming off the exhaust pipe- I’m thinking it’s a gas leak from the carb to the hot pipe? But, when the choke is off, no fumes. When running, no fumes. At idle after a drive, no fumes. Can the choke-on at startup cause my SUs to leak? Thank you, Neil Shovlin a Subscriber.
Couldn't the front mount bolts and nuts be accessed from underneath through the hole in the bottom of the cross member with the use of an extension bar? Therefore no need to remove the spring if you don't need too.
Where you mounted the crossmember to the chassis via the thick poly-spacers; shouldn't there be a nyloc-nut there? To prevent it from falling out; which I assume is likely given the fairly soft nature of the poly-spacer.
Your command of language is most impressive as is your engineering, in both cases far ahead of mine! I wonder if you have a slightly differant version of 'without further ado ' than in my area, or if a simple pronunciation. Adieu or goodbye is different from ado or fuss/delay. Call me pedantic, I probably am, but I always want to know the reasons for things. I greatly enjoy your videos, thankyou.
There are many views on this, in some cases and again it depends where those bushes are applied one might run into an MOT issue (pending where you live). In general PU's deform less and are beter for wear and tear. However there are applications where you might want to have that elastic behaviour of rubber bushes. In general PU's are harder and not as elastic as rubber. Its a different feel... Where would I keep rubber bushes ? I would not , unless I may not by legislation (MOT). Rubber bushes tend to absorb better vibrations and movements, so the connected elements ( metal arms etc...) are less stressed . With PU, that movement is not absorbed or less by the PU and transferred to the metal arms... which may over time show metal fatigue. In reality, I have no come across an issue .
I had an experience some forty years ago while replacing the rubber bushing holding the rack on a 1979 VW Scirocco I was hoping to stiffen up. Here’s an example of the adage “judgment comes from experience and experience comes from bad judgment”. After I rebuilt the steering rack (and setting the rack backlash to zero) I thought I was being smart by replacing the rack locating rubber bushing with very solid aluminum caps. I knew there could be a problem with rack binding if the frame flexed so I installed frame stiffeners top and bottom on both ends of the car. I also replaced all the other suspension bushing with polyurethane, if for no other reason than I could. When I was done, and sitting in my garage the steering felt very direct. Taking the car out for a spin, it cornered like it was on tracks, and even sneezing on the steering wheel resulted in an immediate (and gratifying) response. All was fantastic until I was on a bit of a rough, twisty road - every time I hit even a small bump, I could feel the steering binding up. Of course, the frame of the car was twisting, and therefore the steering rack was twisting too … not a good feeling coming out of a bumpy corner! The fix was simple - I replace one of the rack's solid aluminum hold-down caps with a polyurethane bushing and the original rack hold-down cap. As you might expect, the car handling felt just as crisp with only one end of the rack solidly mounted … and eliminated underwear staining too. The moral of the story: always think what can go wrong and what the result of that failure could be … and when in doubt stick with what you know will work. As a side note, you might marvel at your tight (and noise transmitting) suspension, but your wife might not find it fun at all.
3.5l V8 is the standard v8 that came in the GT. His is a different one and came with a V6 I’m gonna guess a 289ci to 327ci that’s It’s a small car and it needs a small v8
I stumbled across your channel and after about 30 seconds subscribed! I spent most of the day watching the "Old Rusty" engine rebuild, and then when you got the '29 Peugeot running. It's absolutely refreshing to see someone with the "old school" mechanic skills take a machine that is sound, apply some basics engine knowledge, some horse-sense, some precaution, and make them come back to life. Here's my own 1st start of my latest project ua-cam.com/video/ELpynMrMd4M/v-deo.html
I'm working towards Master ASE certifications in heavy duty. School buses, and automotive. your videos help me study. greetings from Oregon, USA.
I love your videos, good tips. I could listen to you all day, my type of guy very knowledgeable 👍
Thanks for the video! This has been a real confidence booster. Greetings from Texas. (‘78 mgb)
Great work, really enjoy your move by move narration. You can never be to detailed. Rebuilding a 73 roadster and 74 GT at the same time on a shoe string budget so your videos are an outstanding help! Thank you!
I love this series. Greetings from Spain.
Glad you like them!
It is always a pleasure to watch your videos. Very good job and perfect film quality. I think I need a new car project for the winter :))
Thanks for the comments and go for it
I have just completed the full rebuild of front end of my 72 MGB GT. Thanks to your knowledge and video i managed to centre the steering rack, (after many attempts before I watched this video) I now have an even 1 and 3/4 turns of the steering wheel each way. However new flexi brake hose on both sides are rather stretched on full lock, will need to see if there are slightly longer ones. Thanks again.
Thanks for the post great info indeed.
Thanks for the comments
Great work, Steve.
Thanks for the comments
Great tutorial Steve
Glad you enjoyed it
I very much appreciate your videos you explain everything step by step and the reasoning behind it
Great video!
awesome
Asking for your help: I’ve got a ‘73 MGB with 2 SU (HIF4) carbs… At startup, choke-on, underneath the rear Skinner Union are fumes coming off the exhaust pipe- I’m thinking it’s a gas leak from the carb to the hot pipe? But, when the choke is off, no fumes. When running, no fumes. At idle after a drive, no fumes. Can the choke-on at startup cause my SUs to leak? Thank you, Neil Shovlin a Subscriber.
Very good work! I did the same a few years ago. I love that coating on the x-member! I wonder what it is?
Oops, I see which paint you used in Part 2!
Thanks for the comments, that is Rustolium paint used on steel beams in construction work.
Couldn't the front mount bolts and nuts be accessed from underneath through the hole in the bottom of the cross member with the use of an extension bar? Therefore no need to remove the spring if you don't need too.
Yes, that is possible but very very difficult and putting that metal plate and PU pad in it is as good as impossible
Where you mounted the crossmember to the chassis via the thick poly-spacers; shouldn't there be a nyloc-nut there? To prevent it from falling out; which I assume is likely given the fairly soft nature of the poly-spacer.
yes , the nuts that I used are self locking... look at the top of those nuts
@@D3Sshooter ah, I must have missed that. 👍
Great explanation. Will you check the tightness of the bolts after the car is driven?
thanks for the comments
Your command of language is most impressive as is your engineering, in both cases far ahead of mine!
I wonder if you have a slightly differant version of 'without further ado ' than in my area, or if a simple pronunciation. Adieu or goodbye is different from ado or fuss/delay. Call me pedantic, I probably am, but I always want to know the reasons for things.
I greatly enjoy your videos, thankyou.
Pads are poly isolators
Thanks for the comments
Are there many situations where you would recommend to keep rubber instead of polyurethane bushes?
There are many views on this, in some cases and again it depends where those bushes are applied one might run into an MOT issue (pending where you live). In general PU's deform less and are beter for wear and tear. However there are applications where you might want to have that elastic behaviour of rubber bushes. In general PU's are harder and not as elastic as rubber. Its a different feel... Where would I keep rubber bushes ? I would not , unless I may not by legislation (MOT). Rubber bushes tend to absorb better vibrations and movements, so the connected elements ( metal arms etc...) are less stressed . With PU, that movement is not absorbed or less by the PU and transferred to the metal arms... which may over time show metal fatigue. In reality, I have no come across an issue .
I had an experience some forty years ago while replacing the rubber bushing holding the rack on a 1979 VW Scirocco I was hoping to stiffen up. Here’s an example of the adage “judgment comes from experience and experience comes from bad judgment”. After I rebuilt the steering rack (and setting the rack backlash to zero) I thought I was being smart by replacing the rack locating rubber bushing with very solid aluminum caps. I knew there could be a problem with rack binding if the frame flexed so I installed frame stiffeners top and bottom on both ends of the car. I also replaced all the other suspension bushing with polyurethane, if for no other reason than I could. When I was done, and sitting in my garage the steering felt very direct. Taking the car out for a spin, it cornered like it was on tracks, and even sneezing on the steering wheel resulted in an immediate (and gratifying) response. All was fantastic until I was on a bit of a rough, twisty road - every time I hit even a small bump, I could feel the steering binding up. Of course, the frame of the car was twisting, and therefore the steering rack was twisting too … not a good feeling coming out of a bumpy corner! The fix was simple - I replace one of the rack's solid aluminum hold-down caps with a polyurethane bushing and the original rack hold-down cap. As you might expect, the car handling felt just as crisp with only one end of the rack solidly mounted … and eliminated underwear staining too. The moral of the story: always think what can go wrong and what the result of that failure could be … and when in doubt stick with what you know will work. As a side note, you might marvel at your tight (and noise transmitting) suspension, but your wife might not find it fun at all.
@@Stevie_D very nice write up, and indeed your are 100% spot on..
What size V-8 do has in your MGBGT?
3.5l V8 is the standard v8 that came in the GT. His is a different one and came with a V6
I’m gonna guess a 289ci to 327ci that’s
It’s a small car and it needs a small v8
@@shadowbanned69 I have one of the original MGBGT V-8s when I saw how the exhaust pipes were run I knew it wasn’t original.
Craig , that is a 3.9L V8 Rover
@@shadowbanned69 , Its a 3.9L V8 from rover
@@craigwhite7698 , indeed this was fitted afterwards as a coversion with a 3.9L V8
I stumbled across your channel and after about 30 seconds subscribed! I spent most of the day watching the "Old Rusty" engine rebuild, and then when you got the '29 Peugeot running. It's absolutely refreshing to see someone with the "old school" mechanic skills take a machine that is sound, apply some basics engine knowledge, some horse-sense, some precaution, and make them come back to life. Here's my own 1st start of my latest project ua-cam.com/video/ELpynMrMd4M/v-deo.html