Saturday Night Special 82
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- Опубліковано 7 сер 2015
- This week we continue with out inspection and troubleshooting of the K&T mill hydraulic distribution box. We dive in a bit deeper and I share with you parts of the system I have worked on, how they function, and and problems I have found.
There's also a short segment on the Bar Z Bash, and some tool trade items I'm taking on the trip.
To Pre-Order an Abom79 t-shirt, please click here. teespring.com/support-abom79
Visit Stan's UA-cam channel and learn more about the summer bash here. / @shadonhkw
Best Regards,
Adam - Розваги
Another good SNS in the books. You got yourself familiar with the operations of the K&T very quickly. Hoping you got it all fixed now, safe travels to Cali... Take Care, Gary
Very sophisticated piece of equipment.
Fingers crossed it works.
I was about to offer several pages from my o-ring handbook until you showed yours.
Very handy book to have.
Thanks for the video
John
WooHoo... Getting psyched. Real,interesting gesture with K&T.
BasementShopGuy Can y6ou imagine buying one of these and moving it down to the Basement shop? LOL See ya soon Brad!
Fantastic bit of kit, whoever designed that really knew there way around packaging loads of parts in a compact space. Fascinating to see, thanks Adam.
Adam, just loved how you troubleshooted the o-ring size issue and explained how to properly find the correct o-ring size. You just cannot goggle this kind of troubleshooting method.
Thanks
Joe
Hi Adam, as I understand, so far no broken parts, more like "O" rings and maybe bad sealing in pressure conducts. Needed some rejuvenating and maintenance was needed.
The nicer part about it is that you an all of us getting more knowledge about hydraulics an mechanics, this is what I call a great practical training.
Pierre
What a beautiful piece of engineering.. and nice to see your confidence grow as you progress thru the potential issues. You almost have ME understanding the intricacies of that gearbox ! which says a lot about your methodical approach. lol. Long live the K&T!
Seven/Ninths Creative I know how frustrating it can be to see something on video and not understand it because of bad or lack of good camera angles. I'm trying to help all the viewers to understand how it works.
After having seen the guts of the K & T, I'm anxious to see it running and making chips. I know you are too. You are doing an excellent job of thinking through the function of each part and making sense of the operation. It will be all the more satisfying when it's up and running.
Adam,
Another very interesting SNS. It was a cool tour of the hydraulics of the K & T. It's really interesting how everything works and is in a compact package. Some pretty smart engineers at Kearney and Trecker! Thanks, Adam!
Take care . . . Dave
If you're not careful you'll soon have to use that mill!! LOL
My hat's off to the guys who designed all that stuff. Smart cookies.
Colin ;-)
That is about the most complicated mechanism I have ever seen. My hat is way off to you for figuring it out. Of course K&T went to hydraulics because all those bells and whistles -- fast feed on 3 axes, manual adjustment, variable slow feeds, the works, by gears and cams would be much more expensive than doing it hydraulically. It is still a bear and has a lot of failure points. On the other hand it is much cheaper to replace an O-ring than to find or machine a replacement cam or gear. Bravo Adam.
I look forward to these so much.
Thanks Adam for another adventure!
the way we bench test transmissions is with air, and what you are looking for is clutch apply without hearing air leaks. you also must have some lube on the seals most of the time for them to seal under air pressure. when you are ready to check small assemblies you can apply air like you are doing and see if they thunk, that will be piston/clutch apply. If they hiss and thunk you have a lip seal or oring leaking.
Adam, you are right about the Hercules catalog having all the info you need. I use it every day I'm at work. I order all the orings, useals, and piston seals we use from those guys. We keep in stock orings from 0 series up to 400 series. Like you, it is really easy to get supplies for my home rebuild projects. Keep up the good work. Thanks Rick
sawz5 They are our main source for hydraulic parts. Good company and great catalog.
Adam, you know what the annoying part of this K&T repair is going to be? You have fixed so many thing relating to the two problems, that when you put it back together and it works! In the back of your mind, you are always going to wonder what the "root cause" of the problem was! Like if this ever happened again, "can I just go in and fix this and it will be OK"? If your anything like me, this will be in the back of your mind for weeks! Lol
Keep up the great work, I am sure once you fire that up, have every confidence that it will work fine.
Fred Newman We definitely found a few problems along the way, here's hoping there weren't anymore that I didnt see.
Great SNS, as ever, Adam! Good grief, that is one complicated-looking gearbox! And I thought clockmaking involved a lot of fiddly parts... Good thing you took photos as you went along.
Thanks Adam for the very educational and informative video. I can hardly wait to see this thing in operation, as I am sure you too are wanting to put this machine into operation. Can you imagine designing this machine, let alone take it apart and restoring it. This thing is a monster. I hated to see the video end. Thanks again...Ken
Kenneth Bartlett I would love to watch a video of someone building one of these machined at the factory.
That right there is some great detective work Adam. Once the mill is up and working you will know in your 'minds eye' exactly what is going on internally when making adjustments. Have a bunch of fun at Stan's bash. Can't wait to see the vids! Cheers.
Rain Coast It is satisfying to know how the internal are working now.
I've waiting all day for this Adam
Great episode, Adam. Love that technical stuff.
Looks like your gaining head way on the K & T troubles! I was an aircraft mechanic in one of my former lives and had to deal with lines and tubes with special bends and hard to reach places, etc. Your doing good with photos and careful work to get things correct.
Have fun at the Bar Z bash!
As soon as you said there were ports clogged with RTV my heart dropped. That along with the spacer and retaining clip could in the sump and the gear not pressed on all the way tells me that at some time the wrong person was messing around in there before you got it. I hope you found and removed all of the RTV and fixed all of their goof ups. I have no doubt that you will eventually get this going and agree with your decision to put it together to see what happens. I really hope it works perfect when you put it back together, but I would be prepared to pull it back apart and dig deeper if needed to clear all of the RTV from everywhere.
Chris
Man that K&T is beautiful though. The engineering is awesome, would have never guessed it was that complex inside but its super nice.
Hey, Adam, thanks for the clear explanations of everything. I know that takes more time, but it certainly is helpful for us to understand. They say that you don't really know something until you can explain it to someone else. Nicely done.
I also like your approach to all of the comments: read them all to see what they have to say, but then you decide and go with your best feeling of how to proceed.
I look forward to the rest of this series.
Thanks again.
Joe
Joseph Magedanz Hoping it makes some enjoyable video to watch. I know many people are curious as to the workings of this gear box. I enjoy sharing my findings.
I read all of the comments, but don't always have time to answer each and everyone one.
No magic bullets on older machines.
One step at a time follow the power flow.
The problems are usually additive requiring little fixes here and there.
Your method is spot on.
The clarity in vids seems to just get better. And the VOICE!!
Rick Brandt Thanks Rick
Interesting work on the K&T mill.... Good work Adam!
Adam: Just finished watching... I truly believe you got the K&T figured out !!! and very hopefully the original problem(s) solved .... !!! NICE very nice work.... !!! :) Brian
Detective Booth, You seem to be doing a right fine job there - making great progress. Thanks and looking forward to see that K&T running. Great SNS.
Bob
Awesome video Adam, such an in depth look into the mill. really awesome stuff. great attention to detail with all the o rings too. ready for more k&t footage
Complicated piece of machinery. Good thing you got it all figured out =) Hope all you work and effort pays off in the end. Really want to see this k&t workin'
All I know is everything you've done so far makes perfect sense, you won't know though until she's back together, I hate trouble shooting anything let alone hydraulic issues which I know nothing about, good luck Adam I hope you solved the problem buddy
yknow I've been really anxious about seeing that KT up and running but I'm glad to see you taking it slow and cutting off all those loose ends.
Enjoy your time at the bash!!! I can't wait to see everyone's videos of the event! They sure picked the right person to judge the 4 jaw chuck competition!!!!
Chris
shadowdog500 It's going to be interesting, and the winner gets a very nice prize!
Great video very informative cannot wait to see it all back together and working. I think that all the little things you have found when all added together would cause most of the problem fingers crossed all will be good.
Dave
I heck of a Swiss Watch, if you will. Can't wait to see her up & running. Look's to me that you taken all points into consideration.
I have always enjoyed the process of troubleshooting when I take the time to "see" how things work together, this of course after using the manual. Not sure if you found or had any documentation for the K&T, but it sure is fun watching your videos and knowing you figured things out. I agree with some of the other commenters that it is probably a combination of a lot of little things that lead to the "failure" of the workings. Multiple O-rings, flakes of blue crud etc. Great video and thanks for sharing.
Randall Parker I did have the manual online that James Kilroy sent to Keiths website, and this week I bought a copy of that manual off ebay. it helps but doesn't give a complete parts breakdown of the distribution box.
Nice work with the K&T, the inner workings of the mill is amazing. RTV has its place, THIS isn't the place! Nice choice with the Loctite and replacing all of the O-rings, every little leak adds up. Have a great trip to Bar-Z, I wish could make the trip down from Washington state but I'm way to busy at work right now.
Matt C.
Great video Adam looks like you are getting it figured out.
Great vid! You are being very through. Great explanation of how everything works.
I like how you would rather figure out what everything does and is supposed to work before just looking for something obvious.
Looking forward to seeing it do some Abom-sized chips.;)
yep, nice inspection work!!! great video. i think you found and fixed most of your problems with the K & T. RTV need to be band from auto stores. you will need to find all the RTV and dig it out. using the right size drill bit by hand can help. the california bash sound great but will be over seas working, maybe next year. thanks for sharing.
Nice job Adam. I enjoyed the Saturday night special. Btw, the quality of the footing is awesome. Douglas
The O-rings you have taken out are a good indication that all O-rings are bad. In fact anything rubber could be bad.
Hey Adam!
It's nice to see the progress on the K&T moving nicely along.
As I mentioned before I hate seeing the silicone RTV sealers used on gaskets with passageways in the gasket. I myself will only use regular chassis grease on this type of gasket, simply because the grease will dissolve in the oil and not become lodged in one of the valves or passageways. I won't even use the Loctite sealers on them.
I have never talked about my history, so here is a tidbit about me.
One of my passions is drag racing. I have owned, built and driven just about every type of drag car there is and have driven at well over 200 MPH. I have been doing this since 1974 and have seen my fair share of what the RTV sealers do to things when used where they should not be used. With driving at speeds in excess of 200 MPH comes the huge negative G's when the parachutes deploy, I like so many other high speed race drivers had suffered from detached retinas from the 5 negative G's. I have my eyes repaired and was able to regain my eyesight but it ended my driving days on the track. So now I am the crew chief for out line of nostalgia front engine dragsters. I do all of the building, maintenance and tuning on the cars and also train in the new drivers. It is my job to see to it that our dragsters are safe for our drivers and to keep them from oiling down the track. I tend to be very anal about how things are done in my shop. I am not going to pretend to tell any of you guys how to do things in your shops. I just wanted to share with you why I do things the way I do.
Joe
Joseph P. Polnaszek Thanks for sharing some of your experience with us Joseph! Dragsters are awesome!
Nice walk thru Adam. Yeah I would say those o-rings were bad for sure!
Nothing real obvious wrong, All the little things add up. So all new o-rings clean everything and no leaks or air suction leaks, it should work. I have had to do that to many times. Good job. Thanks for sharing, Randy
A lot of little issues lead to a large one, I think you got it buddy!
Shadon HKW Still working on it, but I think we're getting close. Thanks Stan, see ya in a few days!
Great SNS 82 Adam ! With all yur know how this should work out smooth.. We have faith in ya man . Coming together very well !
ShawnMrFixit Lee Thanks Shawn. Next "fixit" I'm sending to you!
Oh man .. As long as it is not as complicated as that K&T ..LOL..
Wow there was a lot here man, glad I came back to revisit this one
Thanks Adam,thought there would be,would be a pain to do on the bench.Have not worked on this type of equipment.
This machine is beautifully complex Adam. It's well beyond me...
Tim
Hi Adam!
Great work on the mill, i'm sure you enjoy this moment, when it's time to put everything back together!
A few month ago, i completely rebuild a french ZHV1 milling machine, you should have seen the smile on my face when i hit the "start" button XD
Keep it up!
bucheron87 That's great! I hope I get the same reaction and performance.
Thanks for the explanation on the workings. I'm far from an expert on hydraulics but I wouldn't be surprised at all if the mill works when it's assembled. All those small problems could have been enough to add up to not working.
Jeff
Sorry about all the posts but when you install the blocks with multiple orings you can use an assembly lube or something thick like grease to hold them in place without them falling off.
adam very interesting sns 82 have fun on your trip.
Awesome! Thanks for the video!!
Really enjoyed that Adam, at least you've found things that were not quite right so fingers crossed eh!
Tell you what though, couldn't help thinking through the video about the guys who designed and built that thing in the first place.......marvellous!!!!!!!!!!
All the best.
Paul Buckberry Yep they did a great job engineering that machine!
Good demonstration and explanation Adam, I just hope you are able to find and remove all that RTV!
An absolutely terrific teaching video, Adam; totally interesting and very well done! I won one of the invitations to the Bar Z Bash, so I'll see you there. Look forward to meeting you. Bob G, closet machinist.
Robert Giovannucci That's great Robert! Make sure to stop by and say hello.
I will see you out in California.
1970chevelle396 See ya there!
Adam thats as good a piece of communication and teaching that I have come across and working the camera was great as well..
I don't think we value good communicators enough---there is another lesson in that.
regards Ian
Ian Craig Thanks Ian.
Taking pictures as you disassemble machines is good... I've created a few basket cases in my lifetime.
Herb Blair oh ive had that with motorcycle engines, but persistence and it got them back together, its too easy now with the digital pictures! film wasn't so accommodating
jusb1066 I hate it when I get the whole thing put together and find an odd part left over! Found a thrust washer in the sink after I cleaned up a fan. Now I have to take it all apart to install it.
Kurt Armbrust We all REALLY hate that....!!!!!
Years ago i was rebuilding a transmission that some shade tree went through already and failed suddenly shortly after, what i did eventually find after a lot of looking was a chunk of silicone in one of the ports in the front pump. You could have the same issue in the ports inside the castings, make sure you blow them out and can get air through them.
See yah when you get back have a good one.
I think your on to some more if the root causes. But to bad you won't know which one it actually is when it's put back together and running @ least it will be running!!!!! Great vid!!!!
The problem if not the pump is the rapid clutch itself. The collector rings or housing are worn out. When we built those S series machine, we needed to engage the three axis and the clutch had to pull all.
Feel a little guilty for pushing you to repair the K&T but then again, i didn't persuade you to buy it, so i guess its not by fault! I just hope theres no more o-rings in them pistons, they look super hard to get to. Enjoy the fun next weekend Adam, and look forward to more stuff coming our way to watch.
jusb1066 Don't worry, it wasn't just you, it was everyone! LOL
I think you put the base cap for the rapid traverse switch on 180deg out (front to back)
The random snap ring, the suction hose, the blue RTV... I can't help but think of some guy in a factory. "Frank, mill 5 just stopped working. Get it back online ASAP." 'Ol Frank did what he had to do to get that machine working. I deal with similar situations in my job as diesel mechanic. Sometimes I have to do things that I know look like hell and will be criticised by other mechanics further down the line. But, sometimes a guy just has to get the wheels rolling so the product gets where it's supposed to be, when it's supposed to be there.
Complicated machine that mill
Shame I can not be at the get together
Best
John
doubleboost
Maybe someday
doubleboost That's shame. it would have been a hoot and a halve if you would have.Marcel.
doubleboost WITH DEBS !!
doubleboost John, be sure to check into Stans channel the day of because he's going to have a live feed. Maybe we'll all get to say hello to those watching.
Thanks Adam, I can't even imagine all of the stress of pulling something like that apart...oh wait, yes I can. Taking apart someone's 1951 Porsche 356 down to bare bones before there were digital cameras was quite hair raising. Not nearly as complicated so to speak, but certainly a good deal of money was on the line. I'm not sure if you're lucky to be your own customer or not.
Restoring old cars was easy pickins in Hawaii though, not many of us would put up with the drop in visits from customers, and we didn't get insurance jobs, so we filled a niche market...plus, rust never sleeps ;) That I'm sure you know out in Florida, LOL!
See you soon Bud, Aloha...Chuck
Knolltop Farms Todays digial cameras and videos really help us out big time. Your right about that rust! See ya soon Chuck!
Thats one of them machines you would like to talk to the engineer that designed it. The mill other than the dried orings looks to be in good shape. I hope your efforts will pay off.
***** I agree, it's so densely packed and all purpose made...it's like a big tractor's worth of parts all packed into a sardine can, LOL!
***** I was sure hoping that someone who helped build these machines would chime in on the channel and talk to us. Man wouldn't that be great!
All the little leaks at orings or otherwise all add up to a big leak.
Hi mate.
Almost there. I think that the others are right in that it's the sum's total that has made the K&T fail. I think that you have been able to eliminate most of the possibilities that could have been a factor. I also think that you will be able to understand you machine better than most other machinists. It was good to see that most of the parts are able to be made by a good machinist.
What is the basic deference, between the ATV, and the gasket eliminator?
Have a ball at the bash,
Marcel.
Ps: In the plane, don't be afraid to ask for a seatbelt extension, I always do.
Marcel Timmers The blue rtv is a silicone. The 515 gasket eliminator is a different formula that doesn't harden up, and any that gets into the oil will dissolve.
Abom79 Cheers for that, I thought it was six of one and a half a dozen of the other.
I have repeatedly seen problems caused by gasket sealant. Use with extreme caution on flanges. Too much of a good thing can be very problematic.
Adam,
Follow your stiff, Explanation of the hydraulic system is good here and I'm trying to follow the videos but am not reading the discussions so I maybe all wet.. There are a few of things you might want to look at,,
IIRC the main issue was hydraulic pressure which is what you are trying to achieve. Finding leaks is good. Getting flow up from the pickup is good..
1. The relief valve don't look that good, You might want to make a new one and hone the hole it fits in out..
2. You mentioned examination of the pump and that it looked good but din't go into any detail or show the insides.. I don't know if its a gear or gerotor pump but side plate wear on either will kill pressure. Easy way to restore tighen side play up with machining / lapping.
3. The flow controls for the clutch look to me like mini regulators for the clutch.. Those might not sustain pressure.
4, There seem to be a lot of sliding shafts that are actuated hopefully under lower pressure but may cause loss of pressure due to leakage,, This may be part of the low pressure system so not the issue.but the lower pressure might have a defective regulator that kills pressure, (not sure how that part works)..
.
I just find it amazing that a complex machine as that one was designed with out the use of computers. Just paper, pencil and a simple slide rule. My hats off to Engineers of old technology, And let's not forget MADE IN U.S.A.----OOH-RAAAA.
***** I'll agree with that Robert!
You really have to hand it to the folks that design this equipment... With maintenance they will last a 1000 years
Interesting combination of mechanically selected and hydraulically actuated transmission linkage. Did you check the clutch friction disc and plate thicknesses? As they wear, they may not be holding. The clutch mechanism is directly in line with the "high speed traverse" circuit! Since, the clutch is not used in regular speed traverse, it could be something to look at? When the unit is reassembled, if the "high speed traverse" is "slow" in all axis of movement, it could be those clutches, or the clutch hyd. circuit. One way of isolating the problem. Those short stainless steel hydraulic lines look like they could be a pain in the butt. The fire retardent "purple" hydraulic fluid is Skydrol 500-B, LD-4 and 5... It is a different chemical base, so it requires different seals and o-rings . It is used in aircraft because it's high temp., flame retardant, anti-corrosion, and low freezing point, properties. It was invented (~1949) because some aircraft were lost during (and after) WW2, due to fires caused by leaking mineral oil based hydraulic fluid. The brake systems on aircraft can get red hot.
Takes three days to get up here to illinois. I' sure you don't have to wait that long.
Be sure that the right material is used on the o-rings
It just amazes me that this thing is so complicated! I'd of never guessed that.
P.S. It sounds like Stan's event should be at least 3 days!! You'll never get everything done. (mainly because of all the BS-ing that will be going on)
Thanks Adam for a great video.That RTV is good for some sealing.I have dug more of that crap out of transmissions.Can you adjust the flow controls with it all together?Have a blast at Bar-Z....Pat
Patrick Craig Yes theres an access panel you remove to get to the flow controls. They're right behind the panel and easy to adjust.
Rebuilt a cinci boring mill when I was working at a machine shop along time ago this looked like a real p i a but with your skills I’m sure youll fix her up
Oooo it's a motorbike clutch :D
Quick note, put the wrong oil in my motor bike the clutch slipped like hell!
I Changed the plates and was good to go, wonder if the oil is important in the mill?
No O-rings or piston rings in those clutches? That air check at 40:47 would normally be a fail for a wet clutch assembly. It sounds like it would be flooding oil through that clutch at that rate, and maybe K&T has designed it to be that way but I doubt it. I suspicion that o-ring was brittle due to overheated oil flowing though it from a high pressure oil leak in that circuit.
Brian
Would the wrong oil cause the hardening o ring the oil that was in the sump was thick stuff not sure what K&T spec 32 or 68 hydro oil , over here it has been known that ATF causes havoc with the wrong grade of o ring , as you are more I tune with the American iron how is the system vented up to those high level clutches ? Is it the blow by that does it , or do they have wire drawing rings same as a spool valve ? That would let the air out a bit.
I am sure that the venting is built in somehow as access is limited.
We will see when Adam fires it up
Stuart
Stuart Hardy I am sure wrong oil could cause that but usually an oil issue swells or turns the o-rings to mush. I am not sure how those pistons are sealed as I never could locate a parts breakdown for those. I would imagine they either use o-rings or iron piston rings. There would typically be a seal to the manifold and an outer seal for the piston to drum. Having no seals and relying on just a tight fit would typically be poor practice because it would change operating characteristics with temperature a lot due to expansion and contraction and viscosity changes in the oil with temp. I believe the extra holes in the spool valve assembly are the correct clutch pack returns for release.
bcbloc02 Brian, there's no o-rings to be found in those clutch packs, and none I see on the schematic either. The oil comes into the small round reservoir and pushes against the gear. From what I see, it's not a 100% sealed unit, and a minimal amount of bypass is expected between the clearance of the fits.
Stuart Hardy The manual calls for either ISO 32, OR, Type A trans fluid.
Abom79 Thanks Adam and Brian
I thought the stuff in your lube bottle was ISO 32 its what I use for spindle oil , it looks a lot cleaner than the stuff in the sump when you pulled the knee apart hope it works OK when you put it back together ,But I am sure you do as well
What a nightmare, I'm glad my BP clone is simple like me.
The Texas Gun Guy Our BP clones do a great job, but won't handle the cuts this mill will. :)
Yeah I have some large end mills for something like that. Most are over an inch and a half in dia.
Every time I open up a mechanism such as this and find out it has been worked on before, I have to ask myself if why I'm working on this is the same thing that was worked on before and was fixed with a "bandaid" or the problem wasn't found and was put back together and sold so someone else ends up with the problem
Dale Nelson
It looks like that last gear and bearing on the motor shaft is installed backwards. The gear should engage the idler gear above it.
dave p I can assure you the gears were installed correctly. If one was backwards it wouldn't fit together.
Adam, I know you have received tons of comments and suggestions, I myself feel it's just "O"- Ring fatigue in multiple locations, just a thought I had.
***** That and I think that old suction line was an issue we addressed as well.
Great Video. Most of the questions I had you answered but one. I wonder why the tee fitting on the flow controllers, is there a pressure relief on the unused end of the tee?
Eric Corse No it's just a cap.
Interesting thanks Adam
Great stuff Adam! You can be sure that everything that you're doing sure as hell isn't gonna hurt. Nice job. Thanks. Are you going to have to bleed those lines?
Duncan Mac No need to bleed the lines.
Abom79 That makes things a bit easier. Good luck with the rebuild. It's gonna work, I just know it.
I notice in toms calibration lab, he has a 12year old bottle of scotch "calibration fluid", whereas you have an 12 pack of beer. Calibration fluid is calibration fluid.
Notso Fresh you might be quite right there, Sir
Notso Fresh It's funny about that case of beer sitting there, I didnt see the box when filming. Gotta keep the coke machined stocked for out guests...:)
Abom79 Well Gill is coming to help you, so you better stock up.
Nice work! That 2nd push did not sound right compared to others? 14:30 sound like scraping a bit?
Adam, please explain the purpose of the flow controls. Are they merely pressure reducers/regulators? Great video, and an extremely interesting machine and presentation! Thanks, Jon
Yan Wo They adjust the flow of pressure to the clutches and allows them to engage more softly than with full on pressure.
Abom79 Thanks, Adam.
who build that crazy machine? (already know who is crazy enough to repair them ;)..)
HI Adam did you take the clutch packs apart and inspect the seals?
Nice progress Adam, look forward to your show every week. Is it just me, or does it look like the plate on the bottom of the rapid traverse valve block was installed backwards? Any clearance issues?
dirtyoperator When I took it off it was backwards, I installed it properly as it all lined up better.
Abom79 Understood.
As I was.
Did you check the thickness of the clutch disks when you had it apart? and when you air check the clutch pack it sounded like a lot of air was leaking by. On automatic transmission clutch packs there is no air that leaks past. Idk maybe you didn't have your blow gun tight against the line?
JOHN HUFNAGEL I have no information and parts break down to tell me the specifics of your comments. What is the proper thickness? Are the clutches supposed to be air tight or allow a little bit of bypass from parts clearance? The problem wasn't the clutches, it was no oil pressure.
automatic trans are air tight IDK about your milling machine. There aint any manuals around online to give you a spec on the thickness of the clutch disks? if it leaks a lot of oil past that would contribute to no oil pressure
Amazing machine! How much would it cost to make this mill today?
GaryGrumble I would guess if it was built in the USA it would be at least 50K, probably more. I hear you can buy a brand new Monarch 10EE from Monarch for 100K...:P
Adam, How did you set the correct flow on the two flow control valves?
downunderwest There's no predetermined setting for them. You have to run the machine and monitor the engagments, then adjust so that there is about a 2 second delay, or "ramp up" on pressure. The flow controls keep the clutches from slamming in.