Thank you John. Great, simple presentation. Important, but small, point you made regarding reintroducing water after making the repair. I had completed the repair (which I don't think I needed in retrospect), and after opening the supply valve I still had water leaking from the top of the back flow preventer. Your mention of the need for fairly abrupt water pressure to pressurize and seat the springs inside solved my problem. Per another posters' suggestion to reintroduce water pressure slowly when starting an irrigation system in the spring, to avoid a strong water hammer situation and potential damage to other system parts, I had not been turning the supply on quickly enough to pressurize and set the springs inside. Bottom line, opening it quickly did the trick. Thank you again for your helpful video.
I only replaced the o-ring (washer) on the bonnet. Easy 99 cent fix because I got the new o-ring from a mom and pop hardware store. Thanks for the video though, it helped me understand the backflow device.
Yes! Don't forget to abruptly turn on the valve to push the spring into place. If you don't it will leak and make you think it needs replacing. However, they do just need replacing sometimes.
Thank You ...You are a master of communication as you explained every detail including the content of the package. One question- is the nut in the package for the canopy? Thanks again...
Only other thing that may happen is when you turn it on it briefly may purge water until it is pressurized and does not mean it is installed wrong it will seal.
I broke the bolt by over tightening the bonnet bell cap. I drilled 2 wholes in the cap and threaded string through the holes to get it to stay put, but I saw that the cap should be loose, which it is not with my DIY repair. Does the bell cap really need to be loose?
Hey man. Nice work around to keep the top on the assembly. The cap is really non essential to the function of the device. So as long as the stings don’t obstruct and the thing is not leaking call it good. By the way, I keep an insulted cover over my back flow assembly year around. Sure isn’t required but I like the extra level of protection. Thanks for sharing your experience
Hi John, I've been thinking about this regarding freeze precautions. Would it not be ok to shut off the incoming valve and proactively REMOVE the internals for the winter? Then just reinstall them before starting the sprinkler again once the cold passes? Why leave everything in place if you're not using it only to have it burst or crack and needing replacement? And with no restrictions inside and no water in the valve, there's nothing to force the metal to burst. Your thoughts?
Hi Sam, Sure, nothing wrong with removing the internal parts of the back-flow. Some folks go as far as removing the entire back-flow with the aid of unions. Just remember to drain the manifolds as freezing water can cause significant and costly damage. Sounds to me like you have a good grasp of the situation.
Both handles to turn off the water flow on mine are in the back instead of the front. Is that uncommon? I don't know why that is. The sprinkler system was installed already when I bought the house. Every DIY video I've seen, they are in the front.
Only on handle is required to turn off the flow. However in your situation I would turn both to the off position. The installer was lazy and did not rotate the ball valves to face forward or it was installed backwards. I’m guessing lazy. Don’t concern yourself with the position as long as the unit works and the handles are not obstructed.
Thank you so much for posting this video. You saved me $250, this is what I was quoted to replaced it. I paid $52 on Amazon and replaced it myself. Your video was excellent.
Ok, I did it. I followed your directions to a T (thin washer, added the grease, seated backwards till it felt flushed, then tightened it, added cap, and open the system abruptly). The system didn't leak after I swapped the large gasket with the smaller one. Is there another way to find out which gasket size actually belongs to my system? I'm not the original owner?
Yes, see the channel where the o ring will seat, this is at the top of the threads. Test both rubber rings to determine which one fits best in the channel.
Hey John, my Febco test cock is leaking slightly. I don't see replacement parts around CR. Any easy way to just repair this? It's just a drip about every 10 seconds. Thanks John, love the videos!
Hi Ryan, best to not let it drip the entire season. You can find a testcock on Amazon, Febco 1/8 Male x 1/4 female. The item is available at DBC located at 18810 Longs Way, Parker. Thanks for the kind words. JL
Hi John, Great info. I am having unit tested for city ordinance. Had a freeze repair and blowout last fall. Should check valve be replaced before having unit tested?
Thanks Mark. If the clip and spring remained in place then during the freezing episode then the check valve should be okay. I would pull it apart and look for any for any damage. If you see nothing then you are good to go. I don't often see the check get damaged during freezing events. Hope the process is uneventful. Best to you Mark.
What would cause this to happen on a brand new poppet and bonnet? I'm trying to get this going for the first time at this residence. I'm in your neck of the woods so you know how bad the grass burns if not watered. Trying to get this going before my front and back lawns turn into the dust bowl.
Consider dragging a hose until you are able to get the system operating. I’m not certain what is happening with the back flow. However, if you installed new parts and the BF won’t hold pressure them watch the system startup video. Let me know more details if that doesn’t help and we can figure it out together.
@@CastleRockSprinklerService It was acting very strange when I did the startup. I did the same technique in the video. However when I closed the valve at the end of the line, the main pipe started chugging and water started coming out of the top of the bell canopy. I replaced the poppet and bonnet and now water just comes out of the top right away and does not stop when I turn on the lower inlet valve. I had to manually manipulate the poppet up and then it flowed but then just comes out of the top when closing the valve at the end again. I am going to look for the Febco poppet today, I bought one of the aftermarket ones you said to stay away from because the stores did not have the Febco one.
@@area.man. the installed parts are likely okay. You have a pressure problem down stream. I would be looking for an open drain valve in a manifold box as well as a zone which is open. Or there could be a leak in the main line which leads to the valve boxes. Start hunting down the reason you can’t pressurize the main line. Don’t be co corned for the backflow parts at this point.
@@CastleRockSprinklerService There is a valve I closed in the manifold box, it has an open end so thinking that is where the system drains. Water was flowing freely out of the end of that. When I turned that valve closed that is when the line started chugging amd water came out of the bonnet. That prompted me to replace the poppet and bonnet.
I replaced the Bonnet/Poppet and it worked fine for about 3 weeks. Then it started leaking again. I found the gasket bulged out to the side (I used the large one). I just tried using the smaller gasket but the system continues to leak with the smaller. I'm planning on returning the item to Lowes and getting a new one. But any ideas on why the system failed so quickly?
Here you go:sprinklersupplystore.com/products/febco-canopy-765-3-4?variant=43671906249&gclid=Cj0KCQjwg_iTBhDrARIsAD3Ib5jAW9gPSmGer9GSY1ew5RDPdHXvHtkKceGNsaCjnAviBNNJB-M8zycaAil6EALw_wcB
John, After I replaced those pieces I turned the valve on & right below below on the “neck” of the “brass piece”, water squirted out & it appears there’s a super duper small crack or hole in the brass piece, it’s only squirting out when I turn the water valve right there on & once pressurized it is barely leaking out of the “T” where you screwed the plastic into,, it’s right below that. Do I have to buy another poppet kit or does that brass “T” come with it? I just replaced that yesterday. Any help would be grateful.
I have replaced the inside parts and it worked for a bit but now it's leaking again up through the bell and I am not sure why. All the inner parts are new! Help please?
I would suggest taking the parts out. Checking for the ring, be sure the grease was applied to the treads and then replace the parts. Be sure the threads seat properly as it should be very easy hand tighten the parts.
Understood. Are you able to just lift up on the bell cover and pull it out. I’ve seen what you are experiencing, the freeze damage inside cracked the center post which holds the bolt. You can be aggressive as you attempt to get that cover off. If push comes to shove then try to get ahold of the post with a needle nose to stop the spinning while you turn the nut.
@@CastleRockSprinklerService I was worried I would bend the cover? I am usually a bull in a China shop so didn’t push it to hard. I will give it another go. I very much appreciate you responding brother!
@@CastleRockSprinklerService no go on grabbing the pipe with need nose can’t lift it with the bell housing. Used WD40 to try and loosen it up. The tap the fins down below no go. Would it hurt anything to just chip the plastic valve away and take it of in pieces?
Actually the parts are the same price as a whole new febco PVB! frustrating- also, I tried to save money and bought an aftermarket set and it lasted only 1 month.
I’ve never seen a weak spring be the cause of a failure. I have seen low water pressure not be able to hold the bonnet and popit closed. A weak spring would allow a low pressure issue to perhaps keep things sealed up.
EmberASSing. there are no washers. Those are o-rings, the white grease only needs to be on the o-ring prior to pushing into position. Because of your years of experience. I'd be willing to betcha' that if you merely removed the original o-rings, grease them, and then reinstalled them....ALL would be fine. Nice sweater, looks very professional. I won't be calling you.
Thank you John. Great, simple presentation. Important, but small, point you made regarding reintroducing water after making the repair. I had completed the repair (which I don't think I needed in retrospect), and after opening the supply valve I still had water leaking from the top of the back flow preventer. Your mention of the need for fairly abrupt water pressure to pressurize and seat the springs inside solved my problem. Per another posters' suggestion to reintroduce water pressure slowly when starting an irrigation system in the spring, to avoid a strong water hammer situation and potential damage to other system parts, I had not been turning the supply on quickly enough to pressurize and set the springs inside. Bottom line, opening it quickly did the trick. Thank you again for your helpful video.
Excellent, nice work getting it going!
Your presentation was excellent. You talked at a medium speed and you voice was clear.
Glad you liked it
Thanks for the great vid! This was on point, high-quality, professional video. I'm impressed! Thanks again from Houston.
Thanks for the kind words. Good to know it was helpful.
I only replaced the o-ring (washer) on the bonnet. Easy 99 cent fix because I got the new o-ring from a mom and pop hardware store. Thanks for the video though, it helped me understand the backflow device.
Great video! Thanks. My sprinkler service recently blew out my lines and took the parts! I can’t believe it.
Can't imagine why they would do it. Glad you were able to get things back together.
Thank you I did what to recommend buy the febco
Original and worked beautifully easy explanation
and got it fixed
GREAT video. REALLY helped us to fix our sprinklers. THANK YOU!! :D :D :D :D :D
So glad!
Yes! Don't forget to abruptly turn on the valve to push the spring into place. If you don't it will leak and make you think it needs replacing. However, they do just need replacing sometimes.
Thank You ...You are a master of communication as you explained every detail including the content of the package. One question- is the nut in the package for the canopy? Thanks again...
Only other thing that may happen is when you turn it on it briefly may purge water until
it is pressurized and does not mean it is installed wrong it will seal.
Thanks John, you saved me money! 👍
Excellent!
I broke the bolt by over tightening the bonnet bell cap. I drilled 2 wholes in the cap and threaded string through the holes to get it to stay put, but I saw that the cap should be loose, which it is not with my DIY repair. Does the bell cap really need to be loose?
Hey man. Nice work around to keep the top on the assembly. The cap is really non essential to the function of the device. So as long as the stings don’t obstruct and the thing is not leaking call it good.
By the way, I keep an insulted cover over my back flow assembly year around. Sure isn’t required but I like the extra level of protection. Thanks for sharing your experience
Great video.. much appreciated!
It looks almost like changing a faucet cartridge and I can do that! Haha
Cheers!
Thank you. You just saved me $150
Hi John, I've been thinking about this regarding freeze precautions. Would it not be ok to shut off the incoming valve and proactively REMOVE the internals for the winter? Then just reinstall them before starting the sprinkler again once the cold passes? Why leave everything in place if you're not using it only to have it burst or crack and needing replacement? And with no restrictions inside and no water in the valve, there's nothing to force the metal to burst. Your thoughts?
Hi Sam, Sure, nothing wrong with removing the internal parts of the back-flow. Some folks go as far as removing the entire back-flow with the aid of unions. Just remember to drain the manifolds as freezing water can cause significant and costly damage. Sounds to me like you have a good grasp of the situation.
@CastleRockSprinklerService thank you. I'm not sure what you mean about draining the manifolds. Can you talk more about that?
Good instructions. So how do you know if you have a one inch or three-quarter inch Febco 765-1?
it should state on the brass part
Both handles to turn off the water flow on mine are in the back instead of the front. Is that uncommon? I don't know why that is. The sprinkler system was installed already when I bought the house. Every DIY video I've seen, they are in the front.
Only on handle is required to turn off the flow. However in your situation I would turn both to the off position. The installer was lazy and did not rotate the ball valves to face forward or it was installed backwards. I’m guessing lazy. Don’t concern yourself with the position as long as the unit works and the handles are not obstructed.
Thanks
Thank you so much for posting this video. You saved me $250, this is what I was quoted to replaced it. I paid $52 on Amazon and replaced it myself. Your video was excellent.
Ok, I did it. I followed your directions to a T (thin washer, added the grease, seated backwards till it felt flushed, then tightened it, added cap, and open the system abruptly). The system didn't leak after I swapped the large gasket with the smaller one. Is there another way to find out which gasket size actually belongs to my system? I'm not the original owner?
Yes, see the channel where the o ring will seat, this is at the top of the threads. Test both rubber rings to determine which one fits best in the channel.
Hey John, my Febco test cock is leaking slightly. I don't see replacement parts around CR. Any easy way to just repair this? It's just a drip about every 10 seconds. Thanks John, love the videos!
Hi Ryan, best to not let it drip the entire season. You can find a testcock on Amazon, Febco 1/8 Male x 1/4 female. The item is available at DBC located at 18810 Longs Way, Parker. Thanks for the kind words. JL
Hi John, Great info. I am having unit tested for city ordinance. Had a freeze repair and blowout last fall. Should check valve be replaced before having unit tested?
Thanks Mark. If the clip and spring remained in place then during the freezing episode then the check valve should be okay. I would pull it apart and look for any for any damage. If you see nothing then you are good to go. I don't often see the check get damaged during freezing events. Hope the process is uneventful. Best to you Mark.
I have replaced all the inner parts and it is still not working, any ideas?
I fixed it! As I watched the video I realized I put on the thin rubber washer instead if the thicker one! So I changed it and it worked!!!! Thank you
What would cause this to happen on a brand new poppet and bonnet? I'm trying to get this going for the first time at this residence. I'm in your neck of the woods so you know how bad the grass burns if not watered. Trying to get this going before my front and back lawns turn into the dust bowl.
Consider dragging a hose until you are able to get the system operating. I’m not certain what is happening with the back flow. However, if you installed new parts and the BF won’t hold pressure them watch the system startup video.
Let me know more details if that doesn’t help and we can figure it out together.
@@CastleRockSprinklerService It was acting very strange when I did the startup. I did the same technique in the video. However when I closed the valve at the end of the line, the main pipe started chugging and water started coming out of the top of the bell canopy. I replaced the poppet and bonnet and now water just comes out of the top right away and does not stop when I turn on the lower inlet valve. I had to manually manipulate the poppet up and then it flowed but then just comes out of the top when closing the valve at the end again.
I am going to look for the Febco poppet today, I bought one of the aftermarket ones you said to stay away from because the stores did not have the Febco one.
@@area.man. the installed parts are likely okay. You have a pressure problem down stream. I would be looking for an open drain valve in a manifold box as well as a zone which is open. Or there could be a leak in the main line which leads to the valve boxes. Start hunting down the reason you can’t pressurize the main line. Don’t be co corned for the backflow parts at this point.
@@CastleRockSprinklerService There is a valve I closed in the manifold box, it has an open end so thinking that is where the system drains. Water was flowing freely out of the end of that. When I turned that valve closed that is when the line started chugging amd water came out of the bonnet. That prompted me to replace the poppet and bonnet.
@@area.man. keep looking for more down stream leaks or open drains.
I replaced the Bonnet/Poppet and it worked fine for about 3 weeks. Then it started leaking again. I found the gasket bulged out to the side (I used the large one). I just tried using the smaller gasket but the system continues to leak with the smaller. I'm planning on returning the item to Lowes and getting a new one. But any ideas on why the system failed so quickly?
Looks like you resolved the issue with the comment below.
Where can I find a cap (umbrella on the very top of system)? I misplaced mine.
4.5 out of 5 stars68 Reviews
Canopy for 1" & 1-1/4" 765 Backflow Preventer 765EBV Vacuum Breaker by Febco
Amazon has a canopy for a one inch back flow. I don’t see a cover for a 3/4” back flow
@@CastleRockSprinklerService Thanks, I need 3/4”.
sprinklersupplystore.com/products/febco-canopy-765-3-4?variant=43671906249&gclid=Cj0KCQjwg_iTBhDrARIsAD3Ib5jAW9gPSmGer9GSY1ew5RDPdHXvHtkKceGNsaCjnAviBNNJB-M8zycaAil6EALw_wcB
Here you go:sprinklersupplystore.com/products/febco-canopy-765-3-4?variant=43671906249&gclid=Cj0KCQjwg_iTBhDrARIsAD3Ib5jAW9gPSmGer9GSY1ew5RDPdHXvHtkKceGNsaCjnAviBNNJB-M8zycaAil6EALw_wcB
John,
After I replaced those pieces I turned the valve on & right below below on the “neck” of the “brass piece”, water squirted out & it appears there’s a super duper small crack or hole in the brass piece, it’s only squirting out when I turn the water valve right there on & once pressurized it is barely leaking out of the “T” where you screwed the plastic into,, it’s right below that. Do I have to buy another poppet kit or does that brass “T” come with it? I just replaced that yesterday. Any help would be grateful.
Hi. Please send picture pointing out where you find the water leak. Even better send a video of the dripping. John@castlerocksprinkler.com
Hey man, I did not see the email. Try again, John@castlerocksprinkler.com
I have replaced the inside parts and it worked for a bit but now it's leaking again up through the bell and I am not sure why. All the inner parts are new! Help please?
Hi. Did you remember to install the o-ring? The black, rubber ring?
I would suggest taking the parts out. Checking for the ring, be sure the grease was applied to the treads and then replace the parts. Be sure the threads seat properly as it should be very easy hand tighten the parts.
@@CastleRockSprinklerService yes
@@CastleRockSprinklerService I did take the parts out and examined them. all looks good. I have re greased the o ring but not the threads.
Has there been freezing weather since the parts have been replaced ?
awesome!
The nut loosens but won’t come off it just spins? Help! I have the part🙏
Understood. Are you able to just lift up on the bell cover and pull it out. I’ve seen what you are experiencing, the freeze damage inside cracked the center post which holds the bolt.
You can be aggressive as you attempt to get that cover off.
If push comes to shove then try to get ahold of the post with a needle nose to stop the spinning while you turn the nut.
@@CastleRockSprinklerService I was worried I would bend the cover? I am usually a bull in a China shop so didn’t push it to hard. I will give it another go. I very much appreciate you responding brother!
@@CastleRockSprinklerService no go on grabbing the pipe with need nose can’t lift it with the bell housing. Used WD40 to try and loosen it up. The tap the fins down below no go. Would it hurt anything to just chip the plastic valve away and take it of in pieces?
@@garbagemanpiper Go for it. Just get it out of there. Good luck GMP! 🙏🏾
@@CastleRockSprinklerService Thanks for the encouragement 👍
Actually the parts are the same price as a whole new febco PVB! frustrating- also, I tried to save money and bought an aftermarket set and it lasted only 1 month.
Weak spring causes check to fail
I’ve never seen a weak spring be the cause of a failure. I have seen low water pressure not be able to hold the bonnet and popit closed.
A weak spring would allow a low pressure issue to perhaps keep things sealed up.
AHHHHH, 1st thing to do is MAKE SURE THE WATER IS OFF OR THE BALL VALVE BEFORE THE BACK FLOW PREVENTER IS OFF.
ATTABOY!,,,ALL GUNS ARE LOADED UNTIL PROVEN OTHERWISE!
EmberASSing. there are no washers. Those are o-rings, the white grease only needs to be on the o-ring prior to pushing into position. Because of your years of experience. I'd be willing to betcha' that if you merely removed the original o-rings, grease
them, and then reinstalled them....ALL would be fine. Nice sweater, looks very professional. I won't be calling you.
Asse stopped issuing you hacks backflow rebuilder certificates, don't touch them anymore.