Universal joints are usually 98.8% of the problem with drive shafts . Don't let other techs tell you to buy a whole part. What prevents wear and tear is make sure you get them greased every 20-30000 miles. Depending on your vehicle maintenance schedule. Bearing replacement is cheaper than a whole drive shaft. Just shops are in the throw it away and buy new. Whatever faster. Lifter noise .. shop" well you need a new motor. " Instead of pulling it apart finding why lifter bad and just replacing the lifter or cam for a few hundred to maybe a 1000. They ask you to buy a 6000 plus motor 4000 minimum. Then keep your motor and replace said parts . Sell it for 4000 don't let shops screw you over . Learn a few simple things. I don't even know how I got to this video but man what a joke 🤣😂
I know this video is it least a year old just stumbled across it well the information and it is simplistic it is mostly correct but for DIY I urge caution if you feel an entire drive shaft needs replacement I would urge a professional inspection many driveshafts can be rebuilt for a fraction of the cost of a new one and a professional can even rebalance one for you. In 37 years as a mechanic I personally have probably replaced less than 6 drivelines and those were due to being bent or the slip yoke being damaged Beyond repair on newer cars using the CV style joints replacement of the shaft is generally the only thing you can do don't just assume a Driveline is the problem
Wow, thanks for the video, i think i just figured out why there's a clunk when i come to a stop or engage the D gear. However when driving, the vehicle shifts gears smoothly so i decided to change transmission filter and fix the shaft. I'm pleased to announce that the clunky sound is gone.
Same! I had a broken driveshaft it would make this horrible grinding and clunking sound whenever I would accelerate or brake got a new driveshaft and the sound went away
Thank you for this video. I took my vehicle to the mechanic yesterday and we found out that my driveshaft is no good anymore. Although it never made noise when switching from drive and reverse gear, when the mechanic held the driveshaft from the rear end it made the exact noise I was hearing while driving. He advised me to buy the entire part to avoid future problems so there we are.
Can't really hold a drive shaft to feel for anything I mean it's spinning the same speed your tires are. Dude would have ripped his arm off grabbing that thing. I doubt you'd feel anything if it wasn't spinning
Sorry buddy but you got taken advantage of drive shafts don't go bad and if they do it's because they're broken half universal joint was your problem and you can get them at any auto parts store for $12 to 20 dollars. How many hundreds of dollars did he screw you out of?
Good video! My car makes some clunking noises when shifting from D to R or vice versa. I specifically parked next to the wall to hear it. I also filmed transmission and engine mounts for excessive play and these were good. I guess it is the propeller shaft or U-joints
So very helpful information. This is the exact issue finally discovered on my brand new Genesis GV80 (2months old) ahter 2 trips to the Dealership and 3 weeks of trouble shooting. There were intermittent vibrations upon reaching 40 mph or greater. The car would shake like an old beat up vehicle. Hope we don't have this issue again and hope they replaced the ENTIRE shaft, as recommended in this video. Car too expensive $67000) for issues at 2 mo. Good info!
Legend, u just helped fix my 96 lt1 corvette, vibrated the car slightly at about 58 to 60, everytime I'd put it in reverse in my garage I'd hear a snap sound
I have a slight wobble between 0 and 3 mph. 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0, 2WD, u-joints tight, very little slack in control arm bushings despite signs of cracks and hard to move with long prybar, gears look ok, had wrong oil in diff. Jeep does have Dorman CKS, and because was loose set misfire codes for cyl 2 and 3. All I did was tighten where it was, but notice a pulsing in overdrive in lockup (the perceived 5th gear).
Hi, I have hamming/vibrating noise coming from passenger side, when I'm sitting in driver seat. It's like something is spinning in uneven way. Zero up to 100 km/h nothing. It starts at 100 km/h, peaks at 110 km/h and disappears at 130 km/h. That sound is definitely connected only to car speed and not to engine rpms. Its louder when pressing gas pedal/accelerating, but it does not disappear completely when not accelerating. Its not engine, because that sound is same when in neutral or any other gear. Its not unbalances tire or wheel. I tried many different wheels. Ball joints are perfectly firm. Sound does not change when braking. There is no play in wheel in any direction. I've already changed both sides bearings and inner transmission side axl homokinetic joint since I found this joint could cause this sound. No rubber boots were damaged. All looking good as new. I used high quality replacement and nothing helped. Axl itself looks perfectly fine. I also tried clicking test when turning full left, full right and accelerating. Nothing, there is no clicking sound. No I dont know, this sound started just like that 4 month ago and does not get better or worse. Still the same. I didnt hit pot hole or anything. I'm driving quality highways. My car is vw golf 6 with only 110 000 km in very good shape. Now I plan to change outer wheel side homokinetic joint, but I dont believe it will fix it. I will be glad for all ideas and suggestions.
You just described my car’s problem perfectly. I also feel some shaking and vibration on my clutch. Can it be the driveshaft that is bad. I didn’t hit anything too
Thank you for the video ! I havre a problem with a mercedes 4matic, I have a humming with all speeds (also when I put the gearbox to Neutral in road, I think I have a play in my driveshaft in gearbox side (it moves up and down) And also by putting the box on Drive or reverse I hear a "Boom" an unpleasant noise, is that one of the symptoms? thank you
Actually. This is more about how cars are made these days. It is almost impossible to service just a u-joint on some shafts, physically and economically for the customer. Trust me, with some labor rates. This is a cost savings for the customer
My 98 Ls400 clunked changing gears P to R and P to D. Also clunked when pressing gas to accelerate my mechanic buddy said possibly drive shaft components, put her on the lift everything checked out ok....except the differential. Replaced differential with junkyard one and noise and clunk gone
Really need some help here ... Would a weak (not as stout as the original) driveshaft cause a 2006 Pontiac Torrent AWD to vibrate under hard acceleration or while turning left or right. BTW ... 1. The two-piece driveshaft and carrier bearing are less than two years old. 2. Same applies to Motor and Transmission Mounts, plus Bushings, Control Arms, Ball Joints, etc. 3. In short, all items are fairly new except the tires that are five years old (General RT-43s).
My uncle 1996 mercury grand marquis gs is making a clunking sound when you put it in reverse and in drive. I thought it was the u joints but they're fine so the guy said it was the differential. The differential have play so can it be rebuild or he have to buy another differential?
They told me the universal joints was fine but the differential have play in it. There's no howling noise or whining noise coming from the differential but it makes a clunking sound when you put it in reverse and in drive. I want to know can that be fix cause i don't want to buy another one when this one can be fixed? Had the car 10 years now and the car is 25 years old and still riding great im just tired of the clunking sound please help me out. And he never changed the oil so could that be another reason
Looking for some advice on my Automatic 2009 Mitsubishi outlander it will only make "the" noise once warmed up , it drives normally then when you decelerate and car is slowing on its own once it gets to 40km and under a noise starts like a rubbing scraping sound coming from the right hand front of car
Hey just stumbled across this video I don’t get a clunking noise unless and stopped and give it a lot of gas then u hear a clunk any chance you think it’s this?
Hey so I liked the part when you mentioned that you can hear it from a stop to a go but I hear it from a go to a stop would that still be the same issue it feels like a kick not just the sound would that be my transmission slipping?
Why does my drive shaft leak fluid I’ve changed the seals and it looks like there’s a “weep hole” where it’s a very very small leak but it still get all over my truck.
My 07 tundra 4.7L has a slight bump instantly when i left off the brakes from a complete stop and I’m thinking it’s the slip yoke. I also have a very mild vibration between 50-70 mph, i thought it was my cheap tires but since it’s doesn’t happen every time im thinking it’s related to the slip yoke being dry. Going to try to grease it first
I have a infinity FX35 and the front drive shaft keeps going out after being replaced could there be another issue that is causing the drive shaft to keep breaking ?
Great video ! I have a 2006 pontiac GTO automatic, and i get those clunk noises when i shift into R & D. Also the The rear of the car Sags when shifting into Drive, while it slightly lifts back up when shifting into R . Im thinking it’s a transmission mount problem but any ideas what it can be ? Thanks
This is your rear control arm bushes or rear trailing arm bushes. They also benefit majorly from the SuperPro or nolathane "diff bush insert" which fills the void in the factory housing which reduces a lot of sag in the IRS.
Can the vibration come and go. E.g. I drove two hrs highway no problem. Then locally when as a passenger it seems to vibrate abnormally. But never when I'm behind the wheel.
Hi, I have a very strange situation where only when I slow right down to crawl speed like when stopping at a toll booth I get a very heavy clunking sound and I can feel it through the car but once I start to move again there is no noise or vibration. It is a 2001 Ford explorer Sport Trac 4x4, do you have any ideas on this problem.
I need help if anybody can I bought a whole new drive shaft put a new u joint in we turned the truck on switched it to drive stepped on it and it went up and it bent the rear end of the differential up I have no clue what it can be maybe the u bolts are idk can anyone help.
I have a question, I have 2014 accord , 4 days ago it vibrated every time I stepped on the gas. Today I turned it on just fine but when I switch it to D (drive) it goes nowhere like it literally revs but doesn’t move same with reverse. Could it be the head gasket or is it the drive shaft, and how much would either of those repair cost if you had to guess??
I would rather buy all the components than let them wear out in a sequence. But that is just me . I keep my truck running like new . But that is just me . Also if possible I sometimes up grade to a better part so they last even longer than the factory one ..
When im driving and i hit the gas to go faster my truck kinda looser power then it kicks in could that be the drive shaft? Plz dnt tell me its the transmission
That does sound a bit like a slipping transmission. I thought my transmission was going out on my 06 Tacoma (250k miles), but slipping transmissions don't usually make a clunking noise. I've heard all of the symptoms he mentioned in this video and I'm pretty sure the clunk is just coming from the u joints now. But your vehicle sounds pretty text-book trany slipping.
I have a 2000 Silverado. From the breaks to the gas I feel play in something. Don't hear anything but just playwhen I go to take off from a stop. What are your thought?
I make a clunk when I go from break to gas I always thought it was just me hitting the gas to hard but from 35-50 the entire truck shakes and rumbles unless I take my foot off the gas
@@TheVacuumWizard I have the same extract issue for a bmw 325, I assumed it was differential or u-joint problems.. let me know if you figure it out lol
@@TheVacuumWizard I just replace u joints new tires double balance I'm gonna do road force balance to see if fix it also I have exhaust valve burn out so it's misfiring all time
Drive shaft sounds like the clanking (not clunking) noise on my 2014 camaro, but I can be going real slow or fast, smallest bump to big ill hear that same noise, is it my drive shaft? If it's not, is there anything else underneath that might sound like metal to metal clinking except it sounds like thin metal to metal or maybe slightly lighter drive shaft clanking than the one in this vid
Get grease able U joints cause you can LUBRICATE them! Keep them lubricated plus try keeping the rust out of them Best you can they’ll last a long time and stay nice and tight
Would these differentials make a whine or grinding kind of noise when decelerating/letting off the gas? I’ve checked out everything else and I’m thinking it’s my diff now lol Not sure how to check a diff for this to confirm though
@@user-gu9lp2ug3c It looks like my driveshafts center carrier/bearing is hitting the heat shield that protects it from the exhaust heat. It looks like it’s what’s causing the noise when I let off the gas. Just noticed it, and need to confirm still. But, I hit a bump, it caused my V-band to scrape and push against the heat shield, bending it in and making it touch directly from what I can tell so far. (My cars lowered)
my truck vibrates when i accelerate, also when im driving and go from 1st to 2nd gear it knocks and bucks really hard, did my u joint mess up my trans? or is the hard shift a symptom of a bad u joint?
I have a 2021 jeep gladiator with 8k miles and this has been happening to me since 3k miles the sound is driving me nuts when I shift out of park to drive and also when I’m driving down the road and come to a stop clunk! Then when I go to accelerate in traffic then let off the gas pedal and press it again CLUNK!!!! My dealership told me this is normal….
Please help my car just stopped going into any gear at all and heard lots of thumping underneith could it be driveshaft hope it’s not gearbox and my break pedal vibrating crazy before it happned
I have a 87 K5 Blazer 208 Transfer Case 10 bolt rear end and my drive shaft keeps on chewing up U-joints and spitting them out. any suggestions what the problem is?
The angle of the drive shaft is probably to severe. I believe something like a 7 degree angle is the max recommended. Could get away with a little more maybe but being a k5 im sure you have it up on 35s and lifted
@@devincollier9429 appreciate your answer but ,the issue is fixed now it was the shity 208 Transfer Case turns out didn't have nothing to do with the drive shaft. about forgot it's at factory height on 35s so the angle hasn't changed any on the drive shaft .thanks for your time and have a great day
Question: Something in my right front wheel goes clakity clack when I turn either direction going slightly downhill. Any thoughts ? Thanks. (I've had it checked but no conclusion)
Sounds expensive ... my Honda accord V6 2017 sedan . Vibration/ shaking.... when driving ? What could be wrong ? I'm taking it to the shop . I suspect some components are worn out ? Near the drive FWD shaft ... But at 35k miles . Highway/city driving style ... is this normal?
Had my u joints fixed at a shop mechanic told me I was gonna need another one fast forward to today my u joint shit the bed again new drive shaft on the way for $200
My car has a rapid tricking sound and @exhaust addicts said that the drive shaft was bad and I took it to my local dodge dealer and they said that it’s bad and need to be replaced
After my honda pilot 2015 lift my truck got vibrations...all susppension i replaced with new but still problem not solved . I never checked driveshaft so i think 🤔 the problem is there drive shaft
Hi i change mount engine mount tranns Spark plugs But i have a vibration when i stop in red lights when ac is on vibration is too strong In neutral no vibration Can u help Is drive shaft problem ?
When your talking $100 in new I joints vs say $150 for a shaft then it's probably fair to say you're saving time and worth $50 ...lol...if you're talking $100 in u joints vs say $400 then you're smoking crack
@@matthewhooks452 You don't have any business under your ride if the act of rebuilding a simple double cardan joint for $ 40 in u joints has you contemplating spending $400 .. lol ... That's a POLACK giving a lesson in home economics .. lol !
All depends if the u joints are staked or not. If they don’t have clips on the outside or inside, it means it’s staked and you’re screwed, you’ll need to replace the entire shaft. If you have clips then yes, it’s an easy fix to replace only the u joint for cheap.
@@neondiamondsaquaberry17 You can usually pull those and replace them with ujoints that c-clip in on the inside . They sell replacement u-joints just for thus replacement .
I have a 2016 dodge challenger rt. When I shift to D or when I start moving it clicks. Or sometimes I let off the gas and it clicks. Sometimes it is random. Still cannot determine where exactly the sound comes from. Noticed that now its a bit more frequent. This video seems to be the most accurate to my problem but still not 100 percent sure. Anyone got answers?
@@kenyattapowell2212 I will have my drive shaft thoroughly inspected this week but today I noticed that my engine moves when I put it in gear, made a few research which shows consistency with bad engine and possibly transmission mounts and also causes the car to jerk when the lever is shifted from p>R>D. Open your hood, have someone shift and observe engine movement (significant movements).
My vehicle is starting to shudder while I’m at a stop or if I put it in different gear from park to drive at first I thought it could be my transmission but while I drive it shifts perfectly ima look into a new driveshaft
A shudder is hard to define. If it is the driveshaft, it is usually a single short shudder in the first 5 feet taking off from a light and maybe when the brakes are first applied. If the shudder last longer than the first 5-10 feet, it might be the transmission. It could be low line pressure or a worn band or clutch.
Im 99% sure that’s what’s going on with my car (clunk noises and vibrations. Changed my suspension and it’s still there). Mopar sells the damn shaft for $800 so there goes my new 4k tv 😭😭😭
He’s not wrong though. If your vehicle has some miles on it and you have a worn u-joint, chances there are other related items near their end of life too. The cost and labor to replace each part as they actually fail vs just replacing the whole system is cheaper in the long run and saves you a lot of hassles....
@@derfstang480 99.9% Chance it is only the universal Joint. Unless the Drive shaft is bent you would not need to replace it..Maybe a rebalance but not replaced. Talk about trying to Up-Sale...
@@kenjohnson765 My point is, there's two u-joints in there, a CV type joint, and a carrier bearing. I'm guessing that more than just 1 u-joint is worn out and if you're going to take the time to remove the shaft and replace 1-ujoint, why not either replace all of the wear components at once versus doing one u-joint now and possible another and carrier bearing later...? Doesn't make sense from a time and effort stand point. By the time you do all that, it's faster from a time perspective to just swap the driveshaft. I mean you wouldn't do just one strut/shock or one side of pads would you?
@@derfstang480 Yes, he is wrong. If there is no visible damage to the shaft then more than likely it is balanced. Why go through the expense of replacing the driveshaft? Inspect the U-joints, yokes, center bearing, and replace accordingly. Job done. Assholes like this guy piss me off. You take your car in for inspection knowing it's just your u-joint and then this asshole tells you one of the u-joints needs replacing but he scares you by seriously recommending replacing the whole driveshaft because although only the u-joint needs replacing, something else on the shaft will surely fail. What a load of bull shit. He doesn't know if or when one of the other components will fail until it fails. DIY u-joint, $50. Mechanic u-joint, $250. Mechanic driveshaft, $1000.
Less than 200 miles after a new m.o.t I'm driving down the road the drive shaft pops out the metal struts that hold the wheel twists and snapped at just 15mph. I told the garage multiple times my car had a really bad noise and I had lost speed they replaced catalytic converter I came out the garage after the repair the engine management light was on so they replaced the sensor . Then finally third time he took the car for a drive and said the bearings in the wheel are shot. I said why didn't you pick that up on the m.o.t . Wait for this punchline his reply was " you wouldn't hear it on a rolling ramp". Now call me stupid but even I know as a non mechanic you should always wobble the wheels to check for play. I double checked with my friend who's a mechanic but lives to far away from me. His reply was " He needs shooting ". This is a U.K metaphorical saying not literally needs shooting although he does need firing from his job. Wondering if someone can help me please ? I forgot to ask my mechanic friend and don't want to badger him. Could it be possible that the drive shaft was the noise and not the bearing as after reading bad reviews and always being suspicious about this garage adding parts that don't need replacing that this could be the case. Could wheel bearings really go bad in 200miles after my m.o.t was done. ?
I will never buy a rear wheel, all wheel or 4WD vehicle again. Too many moving parts to go bad. Plus, I used my AWD or 4WD maybe 60 seconds out of a year. Front wheel drive does the same with a little more effort.
thank you for the insight. the fact that there's no background music makes it even more clear. Trying to fix mine a subaru RS here in Kenya.
hope you got it fixed brother.
Universal joints are usually 98.8% of the problem with drive shafts . Don't let other techs tell you to buy a whole part. What prevents wear and tear is make sure you get them greased every 20-30000 miles. Depending on your vehicle maintenance schedule. Bearing replacement is cheaper than a whole drive shaft. Just shops are in the throw it away and buy new. Whatever faster. Lifter noise .. shop" well you need a new motor. " Instead of pulling it apart finding why lifter bad and just replacing the lifter or cam for a few hundred to maybe a 1000. They ask you to buy a 6000 plus motor 4000 minimum. Then keep your motor and replace said parts . Sell it for 4000 don't let shops screw you over . Learn a few simple things. I don't even know how I got to this video but man what a joke 🤣😂
Unless you drive an F 150 with non serviceable joints
Preach !
I quit working on a shop becuz they were sleezy like that.
How can you tell if the U joint is bad? Just shake it?
Mine makes a non stop clunking sound when you put it on reverse until you give it gas it goes away what could that be?
Thanks you for the information .. I think this is what I’ve been hearing under my trailblazer ss ( there is a clunk before I even put it into gear )
Not what I was expecting to hear but thank you, very helpful👍🏼
What were you expecting to hear?
I know this video is it least a year old just stumbled across it well the information and it is simplistic it is mostly correct but for DIY I urge caution if you feel an entire drive shaft needs replacement I would urge a professional inspection many driveshafts can be rebuilt for a fraction of the cost of a new one and a professional can even rebalance one for you. In 37 years as a mechanic I personally have probably replaced less than 6 drivelines and those were due to being bent or the slip yoke being damaged Beyond repair on newer cars using the CV style joints replacement of the shaft is generally the only thing you can do don't just assume a Driveline is the problem
Wow, thanks for the video, i think i just figured out why there's a clunk when i come to a stop or engage the D gear. However when driving, the vehicle shifts gears smoothly so i decided to change transmission filter and fix the shaft.
I'm pleased to announce that the clunky sound is gone.
How is it doing now I have the same issue
How did you fix the shaft
Same! I had a broken driveshaft it would make this horrible grinding and clunking sound whenever I would accelerate or brake got a new driveshaft and the sound went away
Thank you for this video. I took my vehicle to the mechanic yesterday and we found out that my driveshaft is no good anymore. Although it never made noise when switching from drive and reverse gear, when the mechanic held the driveshaft from the rear end it made the exact noise I was hearing while driving. He advised me to buy the entire part to avoid future problems so there we are.
And if you get a new one, you get a “fresh Start” sort of and can make sure you maintain it well from then on out
Can't really hold a drive shaft to feel for anything I mean it's spinning the same speed your tires are. Dude would have ripped his arm off grabbing that thing. I doubt you'd feel anything if it wasn't spinning
Sorry buddy but you got taken advantage of drive shafts don't go bad and if they do it's because they're broken half universal joint was your problem and you can get them at any auto parts store for $12 to 20 dollars. How many hundreds of dollars did he screw you out of?
Good video! My car makes some clunking noises when shifting from D to R or vice versa. I specifically parked next to the wall to hear it. I also filmed transmission and engine mounts for excessive play and these were good. I guess it is the propeller shaft or U-joints
Most likely bad u joints
Same! Did you figure it out?
excellent description thanks
So very helpful information. This is the exact issue finally discovered on my brand new Genesis GV80 (2months old) ahter 2 trips to the Dealership and 3 weeks of trouble shooting. There were intermittent vibrations upon reaching 40 mph or greater. The car would shake like an old beat up vehicle. Hope we don't have this issue again and hope they replaced the ENTIRE shaft, as recommended in this video. Car too expensive $67000) for issues at 2 mo. Good info!
$67k for a Hyundai.... 🤦♂️👋💥
It's a Hyundai
You bought a Hyundai….lmao
could've got a 2020 Cadillac Escalade w 15K miles, or a 2020 Tahoe with $27K left over, or a 2020 BMW X4M 18K miles $10K left over,
@@willt718 Mr could've, would've, should've over here
Legend, u just helped fix my 96 lt1 corvette, vibrated the car slightly at about 58 to 60, everytime I'd put it in reverse in my garage I'd hear a snap sound
I have a slight wobble between 0 and 3 mph. 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0, 2WD, u-joints tight, very little slack in control arm bushings despite signs of cracks and hard to move with long prybar, gears look ok, had wrong oil in diff. Jeep does have Dorman CKS, and because was loose set misfire codes for cyl 2 and 3. All I did was tighten where it was, but notice a pulsing in overdrive in lockup (the perceived 5th gear).
Thank you
Yup finally figured out what those noises were.
Did you replace the U joint or the whole driveshaft?
I am searching videos . This is the best video to explain and advice.
Thanks!
ooof, doing my first universal joint soon, looks like fun (With the proper tools of course).
Very educational
Hi, I have hamming/vibrating noise coming from passenger side, when I'm sitting in driver seat. It's like something is spinning in uneven way. Zero up to 100 km/h nothing. It starts at 100 km/h, peaks at 110 km/h and disappears at 130 km/h. That sound is definitely connected only to car speed and not to engine rpms. Its louder when pressing gas pedal/accelerating, but it does not disappear completely when not accelerating. Its not engine, because that sound is same when in neutral or any other gear. Its not unbalances tire or wheel. I tried many different wheels. Ball joints are perfectly firm. Sound does not change when braking. There is no play in wheel in any direction. I've already changed both sides bearings and inner transmission side axl homokinetic joint since I found this joint could cause this sound. No rubber boots were damaged. All looking good as new. I used high quality replacement and nothing helped. Axl itself looks perfectly fine. I also tried clicking test when turning full left, full right and accelerating. Nothing, there is no clicking sound. No I dont know, this sound started just like that 4 month ago and does not get better or worse. Still the same. I didnt hit pot hole or anything. I'm driving quality highways. My car is vw golf 6 with only 110 000 km in very good shape. Now I plan to change outer wheel side homokinetic joint, but I dont believe it will fix it. I will be glad for all ideas and suggestions.
You just described my car’s problem perfectly. I also feel some shaking and vibration on my clutch. Can it be the driveshaft that is bad. I didn’t hit anything too
Thank you for the video ! I havre a problem with a mercedes 4matic, I have a humming with all speeds (also when I put the gearbox to Neutral in road, I think I have a play in my driveshaft in gearbox side (it moves up and down) And also by putting the box on Drive or reverse I hear a "Boom" an unpleasant noise, is that one of the symptoms? thank you
Customer: goes in for ujoint replacement
Shop: you must replace the WHOLE DRIVE SHAFT!
OFCORSE AND YOU WONDER WHY TECHS HAVE THAT REPUTATION
Actually. This is more about how cars are made these days. It is almost impossible to service just a u-joint on some shafts, physically and economically for the customer. Trust me, with some labor rates. This is a cost savings for the customer
It’s not hard, you can do it yourself. It would also be easier just replacing the driveshaft since new driveshafts already come with ujoints attached
Not on some bmws
Nice lift
I wish all mechanics were like u 💪
Perfect!
Thanks for vid and for pronouncing EVERY SYLLABLE!!!
Very well spoken English 👏 😆 🤣
My 98 Ls400 clunked changing gears P to R and P to D. Also clunked when pressing gas to accelerate my mechanic buddy said possibly drive shaft components, put her on the lift everything checked out ok....except the differential. Replaced differential with junkyard one and noise and clunk gone
Will it cause the car to feel like you have a flat tire and wheel hop?
My car used to do that clunk sound when moving the car first time I start it during the day. It went away though.
Please be more specific. Does bad driveshaft cause vibration issue at all time or low/high speed? Thank you.
Ohhhh, I've been hearing that clunk.
Really need some help here ... Would a weak (not as stout as the original) driveshaft cause a 2006 Pontiac Torrent AWD to vibrate under hard acceleration or while turning left or right.
BTW ...
1. The two-piece driveshaft and carrier bearing are less than two years old.
2. Same applies to Motor and Transmission Mounts, plus Bushings, Control Arms, Ball Joints, etc.
3. In short, all items are fairly new except the tires that are five years old (General RT-43s).
My uncle 1996 mercury grand marquis gs is making a clunking sound when you put it in reverse and in drive. I thought it was the u joints but they're fine so the guy said it was the differential. The differential have play so can it be rebuild or he have to buy another differential?
Thanks for the final comment. I think I'll get a whole new driveshaft rather than the joint.
They told me the universal joints was fine but the differential have play in it. There's no howling noise or whining noise coming from the differential but it makes a clunking sound when you put it in reverse and in drive. I want to know can that be fix cause i don't want to buy another one when this one can be fixed? Had the car 10 years now and the car is 25 years old and still riding great im just tired of the clunking sound please help me out. And he never changed the oil so could that be another reason
I have a good u joint and no visual play on but still get that laud clunk when shifting to drive only.
Looking for some advice on my Automatic 2009 Mitsubishi outlander it will only make "the" noise once warmed up , it drives normally then when you decelerate and car is slowing on its own once it gets to 40km and under a noise starts like a rubbing scraping sound coming from the right hand front of car
Hey just stumbled across this video I don’t get a clunking noise unless and stopped and give it a lot of gas then u hear a clunk any chance you think it’s this?
What is it when it's not the play in the u-joints but the pinion that turns 1/4 turn after the transmission engages to it's normal position.
Can you please email me the link to a “complete rear drive shaft assembly” for a 2005 Cadillac CTS (3.6)
Andrew sir I have one question for ya. What song is that at the end …I need it asap
...Do u have any video or audio how it sounds or vibration...do you hear this all the times or up hill or does it sound like diesel
Hey so I liked the part when you mentioned that you can hear it from a stop to a go but I hear it from a go to a stop would that still be the same issue it feels like a kick not just the sound would that be my transmission slipping?
Why does my drive shaft leak fluid I’ve changed the seals and it looks like there’s a “weep hole” where it’s a very very small leak but it still get all over my truck.
My 07 tundra 4.7L has a slight bump instantly when i left off the brakes from a complete stop and I’m thinking it’s the slip yoke. I also have a very mild vibration between 50-70 mph, i thought it was my cheap tires but since it’s doesn’t happen every time im thinking it’s related to the slip yoke being dry. Going to try to grease it first
Hey Man I have those same two symptoms excepts mine just 55-60. What was your solution
I have a infinity FX35 and the front drive shaft keeps going out after being replaced could there be another issue that is causing the drive shaft to keep breaking ?
Great video !
I have a 2006 pontiac GTO automatic, and i get those clunk noises when i shift into R & D. Also the The rear of the car Sags when shifting into Drive, while it slightly lifts back up when shifting into R . Im thinking it’s a transmission mount problem but any ideas what it can be ? Thanks
Same! Like my car also vibrates when idle. And yeah clunking noise when changing gears... It also lifts up in drive?
@@trcwrd5810
Sounds like motor mounts
This is your rear control arm bushes or rear trailing arm bushes. They also benefit majorly from the SuperPro or nolathane "diff bush insert" which fills the void in the factory housing which reduces a lot of sag in the IRS.
I thought it was a shift solenoid in my 15 rt charger
Do you have an email address where I may request copyright information for educational purposes?
Can the vibration come and go.
E.g. I drove two hrs highway no problem.
Then locally when as a passenger it seems to vibrate abnormally.
But never when I'm behind the wheel.
Hi, I have a very strange situation where only when I slow right down to crawl speed like when stopping at a toll booth I get a very heavy clunking sound and I can feel it through the car but once I start to move again there is no noise or vibration. It is a 2001 Ford explorer Sport Trac 4x4, do you have any ideas on this problem.
Is there any need for nuts on the driveshaft flange
Is it normal for axle to have freeplay?
Took replacing the u-joints to realize that the drive shaft was toast on my truck.
What were some of the symptoms you were experiencing please? mine has like a whining, grinding hum at speeds below 45. Intermittent it comes and goes.
I need help if anybody can I bought a whole new drive shaft put a new u joint in we turned the truck on switched it to drive stepped on it and it went up and it bent the rear end of the differential up I have no clue what it can be maybe the u bolts are idk can anyone help.
What if my trucks too old to get a new driveshaft? What do you do then?
I have a question, I have 2014 accord , 4 days ago it vibrated every time I stepped on the gas. Today I turned it on just fine but when I switch it to D (drive) it goes nowhere like it literally revs but doesn’t move same with reverse. Could it be the head gasket or is it the drive shaft, and how much would either of those repair cost if you had to guess??
that sounds like a transmission. I dont think you have a drive shaft in the accord unless its AWD. Did you find the problem?
@@Dan007UT yea it was the trans
I would rather buy all the components than let them wear out in a sequence. But that is just me . I keep my truck running like new . But that is just me . Also if possible I sometimes up grade to a better part so they last even longer than the factory one ..
When reversing my 2004 Ford explorer there's a loud noise could it be my driveshaft
all those symptoms you described are considered "normal operating standards" by GM and most new car dealer service departments these days. lol.
😂😂 yup!! I feel ripped off when that happens smh
It's because those crooks don't want to honor their warranty. Ford is one of the worst and they have a lawsuit coming.
When im driving and i hit the gas to go faster my truck kinda looser power then it kicks in could that be the drive shaft? Plz dnt tell me its the transmission
That does sound a bit like a slipping transmission. I thought my transmission was going out on my 06 Tacoma (250k miles), but slipping transmissions don't usually make a clunking noise. I've heard all of the symptoms he mentioned in this video and I'm pretty sure the clunk is just coming from the u joints now. But your vehicle sounds pretty text-book trany slipping.
I have a 2000 Silverado. From the breaks to the gas I feel play in something. Don't hear anything but just playwhen I go to take off from a stop. What are your thought?
I got the same issue , hope this gets a reply
I make a clunk when I go from break to gas I always thought it was just me hitting the gas to hard but from 35-50 the entire truck shakes and rumbles unless I take my foot off the gas
Did u find the solution
@@fabianolalde6719 nope now the truck sits on thr side yard it keeps stalling gotta have the transmission looked at here soon
@@TheVacuumWizard I have the same extract issue for a bmw 325, I assumed it was differential or u-joint problems.. let me know if you figure it out lol
thinking of replacing a wheel a mechanic told me my tire had a bump still not sure
@@TheVacuumWizard I just replace u joints new tires double balance I'm gonna do road force balance to see if fix it also I have exhaust valve burn out so it's misfiring all time
Why when i make a complete stop i hear a knock sound in the rear.it feels like i got hit from the rear
Drive shaft sounds like the clanking (not clunking) noise on my 2014 camaro, but I can be going real slow or fast, smallest bump to big ill hear that same noise, is it my drive shaft? If it's not, is there anything else underneath that might sound like metal to metal clinking except it sounds like thin metal to metal or maybe slightly lighter drive shaft clanking than the one in this vid
Did you find out what is the problem?
Get grease able U joints cause you can LUBRICATE them!
Keep them lubricated plus try keeping the rust out of them Best you can they’ll last a long time and stay nice and tight
Clunk noise when start car? In the morning . Just 1 clunk . What can it be?
Would these differentials make a whine or grinding kind of noise when decelerating/letting off the gas? I’ve checked out everything else and I’m thinking it’s my diff now lol
Not sure how to check a diff for this to confirm though
Im having the same problem any luck?
@@user-gu9lp2ug3c It looks like my driveshafts center carrier/bearing is hitting the heat shield that protects it from the exhaust heat. It looks like it’s what’s causing the noise when I let off the gas.
Just noticed it, and need to confirm still. But, I hit a bump, it caused my V-band to scrape and push against the heat shield, bending it in and making it touch directly from what I can tell so far. (My cars lowered)
Does your car have transfer case?
my truck vibrates when i accelerate, also when im driving and go from 1st to 2nd gear it knocks and bucks really hard, did my u joint mess up my trans? or is the hard shift a symptom of a bad u joint?
Bad transmission mount
@@John_BP you think thats a cheap fix? Could i do it myself? I have no way to raise the vehicle.
I have a 2021 jeep gladiator with 8k miles and this has been happening to me since 3k miles the sound is driving me nuts when I shift out of park to drive and also when I’m driving down the road and come to a stop clunk! Then when I go to accelerate in traffic then let off the gas pedal and press it again CLUNK!!!! My dealership told me this is normal….
I’m have the same problem with my bmw x3
It’s a mopar typa thing lol
Would a clicking noise when turning be the driveshaft?
cv joint/axle
Could be a failing wheel bearing also but normally would hear a humming noise
Sometimes that is a loose timing chain.
Please help my car just stopped going into any gear at all and heard lots of thumping underneith could it be driveshaft hope it’s not gearbox and my break pedal vibrating crazy before it happned
Did you find the problem?
Well now I know my problem
Or you just need some synthetic all purpose lube on the splines. Gm recommend that fix.
Does that work I put lube on the u joint
Somebody knows how much will cost fix this problem
I have a 87 K5 Blazer 208 Transfer Case 10 bolt rear end and my drive shaft keeps on chewing up U-joints and spitting them out. any suggestions what the problem is?
The angle of the drive shaft is probably to severe. I believe something like a 7 degree angle is the max recommended. Could get away with a little more maybe but being a k5 im sure you have it up on 35s and lifted
@@devincollier9429 appreciate your answer but ,the issue is fixed now it was the shity 208 Transfer Case turns out didn't have nothing to do with the drive shaft. about forgot it's at factory height on 35s so the angle hasn't changed any on the drive shaft .thanks for your time and have a great day
Ring gears and pinion gears will clunk too.
Question: Something in my right front wheel goes clakity clack when I turn either direction going slightly downhill. Any thoughts ? Thanks. (I've had it checked but no conclusion)
Sounds expensive ... my Honda accord V6 2017 sedan . Vibration/ shaking.... when driving ? What could be wrong ? I'm taking it to the shop . I suspect some components are worn out ? Near the drive FWD shaft ... But at 35k miles . Highway/city driving style ... is this normal?
Did you find the problem to this
Yeah . Just needed a wheel alignment and wheel balance . It's supposed to be done once a year . 🙄 .
Now it drives smooth
Had my u joints fixed at a shop mechanic told me I was gonna need another one fast forward to today my u joint shit the bed again new drive shaft on the way for $200
My car has a rapid tricking sound and @exhaust addicts said that the drive shaft was bad and I took it to my local dodge dealer and they said that it’s bad and need to be replaced
After my honda pilot 2015 lift my truck got vibrations...all susppension i replaced with new but still problem not solved . I never checked driveshaft so i think 🤔 the problem is there drive shaft
Hi i change mount engine mount tranns
Spark plugs
But i have a vibration when i stop in red lights when ac is on vibration is too strong
In neutral no vibration
Can u help
Is drive shaft problem ?
Could be. Might be a misfire
Hell of a lot easier just to change out the entire shaft. They come with new u-joints already pressed in. Cost a lot more but very simple.
When your talking $100 in new I joints vs say $150 for a shaft then it's probably fair to say you're saving time and worth $50 ...lol...if you're talking $100 in u joints vs say $400 then you're smoking crack
$375
@@matthewhooks452 You don't have any business under your ride if the act of rebuilding a simple double cardan joint for $ 40 in u joints has you contemplating spending $400 .. lol ... That's a POLACK giving a lesson in home economics .. lol !
All depends if the u joints are staked or not. If they don’t have clips on the outside or inside, it means it’s staked and you’re screwed, you’ll need to replace the entire shaft. If you have clips then yes, it’s an easy fix to replace only the u joint for cheap.
@@neondiamondsaquaberry17 You can usually pull those and replace them with ujoints that c-clip in on the inside . They sell replacement u-joints just for thus replacement .
I have a 2018 v6 charger and I'm trying to get a better drive shaft for when I supercharge it..do you have any recommendations??
Yeah get a toyota
@@jayrico6226 no thanks
I have a 2016 dodge challenger rt. When I shift to D or when I start moving it clicks. Or sometimes I let off the gas and it clicks. Sometimes it is random. Still cannot determine where exactly the sound comes from. Noticed that now its a bit more frequent. This video seems to be the most accurate to my problem but still not 100 percent sure. Anyone got answers?
the front wheel on that jeep is counter balanced
The only noise i hear is the clunking noise when i shift from park to reverse and to drive
I have same issue
Same
Does your vehicle also jerk when you get this clunking noise?
@@MustaphaBCham yes it jerks when i put it in reverse and in drive i want to know what's the problem
@@kenyattapowell2212 I will have my drive shaft thoroughly inspected this week but today I noticed that my engine moves when I put it in gear, made a few research which shows consistency with bad engine and possibly transmission mounts and also causes the car to jerk when the lever is shifted from p>R>D. Open your hood, have someone shift and observe engine movement (significant movements).
I hear scraping noise coming when I brake hard it’s that another symptom?
bad brakes pads bud
@@gackal1982 Na they new still make noise
@Jaquan Crump I feel like they’re grinding against the rotor idk til I check it out tomorrow
@Jaquan Crump I just need a pro mechanic whose honest I’m at a dealer now I spent 570 for a cv axle that wasn’t even the problem
At pep boys 🤦🏽♂️
My vehicle is starting to shudder while I’m at a stop or if I put it in different gear from park to drive at first I thought it could be my transmission but while I drive it shifts perfectly ima look into a new driveshaft
A shudder is hard to define. If it is the driveshaft, it is usually a single short shudder in the first 5 feet taking off from a light and maybe when the brakes are first applied. If the shudder last longer than the first 5-10 feet, it might be the transmission. It could be low line pressure or a worn band or clutch.
My shit just blew
Im 99% sure that’s what’s going on with my car (clunk noises and vibrations. Changed my suspension and it’s still there). Mopar sells the damn shaft for $800 so there goes my new 4k tv 😭😭😭
Dude I got one for my Benz for 100 dollars bro just look online for it
He said replace the whole shift lmfao 🤣. He's not trying to sell parts lol.
He’s not wrong though. If your vehicle has some miles on it and you have a worn u-joint, chances there are other related items near their end of life too. The cost and labor to replace each part as they actually fail vs just replacing the whole system is cheaper in the long run and saves you a lot of hassles....
@@derfstang480 99.9% Chance it is only the universal Joint. Unless the Drive shaft is bent you would not need to replace it..Maybe a rebalance but not replaced. Talk about trying to Up-Sale...
@@kenjohnson765 My point is, there's two u-joints in there, a CV type joint, and a carrier bearing. I'm guessing that more than just 1 u-joint is worn out and if you're going to take the time to remove the shaft and replace 1-ujoint, why not either replace all of the wear components at once versus doing one u-joint now and possible another and carrier bearing later...? Doesn't make sense from a time and effort stand point. By the time you do all that, it's faster from a time perspective to just swap the driveshaft. I mean you wouldn't do just one strut/shock or one side of pads would you?
@@derfstang480 I agree, With you on changing all of the u-joints and Carrier bearings.. but you don't need to replace the shafts
@@derfstang480 Yes, he is wrong. If there is no visible damage to the shaft then more than likely it is balanced. Why go through the expense of replacing the driveshaft? Inspect the U-joints, yokes, center bearing, and replace accordingly. Job done. Assholes like this guy piss me off. You take your car in for inspection knowing it's just your u-joint and then this asshole tells you one of the u-joints needs replacing but he scares you by seriously recommending replacing the whole driveshaft because although only the u-joint needs replacing, something else on the shaft will surely fail. What a load of bull shit. He doesn't know if or when one of the other components will fail until it fails. DIY u-joint, $50. Mechanic u-joint, $250. Mechanic driveshaft, $1000.
It’s actually easier for a shops to replace the whole driveshaft instead of just the u joints same process less work more profit for them
I'll make sure I steer clear of that shop....
My 22 bronco randomly shakes nasty between 68-80mph. It's definitely not the tires and wheels. Hope is just this and weak as ford covers it
just cost me $1777 to have mine done on a 2012 ford escape... lol
Less than 200 miles after a new m.o.t I'm driving down the road the drive shaft pops out the metal struts that hold the wheel twists and snapped at just 15mph. I told the garage multiple times my car had a really bad noise and I had lost speed they replaced catalytic converter I came out the garage after the repair the engine management light was on so they replaced the sensor . Then finally third time he took the car for a drive and said the bearings in the wheel are shot. I said why didn't you pick that up on the m.o.t . Wait for this punchline his reply was " you wouldn't hear it on a rolling ramp". Now call me stupid but even I know as a non mechanic you should always wobble the wheels to check for play. I double checked with my friend who's a mechanic but lives to far away from me. His reply was " He needs shooting ". This is a U.K metaphorical saying not literally needs shooting although he does need firing from his job. Wondering if someone can help me please ? I forgot to ask my mechanic friend and don't want to badger him. Could it be possible that the drive shaft was the noise and not the bearing as after reading bad reviews and always being suspicious about this garage adding parts that don't need replacing that this could be the case. Could wheel bearings really go bad in 200miles after my m.o.t was done. ?
Down the road. Just fix the damn noise.
Grease the U joints or replace them.
$150 for a driveshaft shop to replace U joints, balance, and paint your driveshaft or buy one made of chenesium for $1500! 🤣
I will never buy a rear wheel, all wheel or 4WD vehicle again. Too many moving parts to go bad. Plus, I used my AWD or 4WD maybe 60 seconds out of a year. Front wheel drive does the same with a little more effort.
♥️👍👍👍
He's just trying to get you to spend more. What a clown