Well, well, well, what a job that was ! Personally I would loved to have heard all your expletives, I can only imagine ! I love watching your videos as they have inspired me to try to service my own locos. I did screw up my first attempt by damaging the coils in the motor but since then I have been successful, so far!! I have to say though, that I couldn't have done any of this without watching your vids first. Many thanks for the confidence building that you have instilled in me. Cheers bud. lol x
I like all you repair videos, I look after my sons Locos. He has about 20 which i have converted to DCC including a couple of Trams. I only ever look at them when he says they bcome a problem. Maybe i should give each on a little oil now and again. Keep the videos coming Bill.
good one bill, it`s a blanking plug which connects the points on the pcb or you would plug your dcc decoder into it,, is your customer running on dcc ?
Well done . That looks like a hornby railroad range model ? , I had the same gear issue on a hornby city of Leeds , dab of superglue does the trick as you’ve shown .
@@mikep4821 . Yes . A very fine amount on a cocktail stick or pin usually , either side of the plastic gear cog so it is flush In application, obviously be careful not to get any glue on the teeth of the cog or across the rest of the axel .
Hi can you tell me if this is the same castle model that Hornby used for their early Hogwarts Castle. I had similar problems with the Hogwarts Castle. And yes like you this was a much newer model than i normally work with. i usually work with H/D, Wrenn and Triang engines. I removed the DCC wiring and connected direct to the motor just as you did. I do not use DCC. You could try Peters Spares for the gears.
Not sure about the Hogwarts. Peters spares doesn't have replacement gears or wheelset. I think the superglue will hold. I glued it three times with baking soda added to 3rd application.
Hi Bill, I’m learning loads from your videos and this one is no exception. Maybe because I have 8, 9 or 10-coach rakes I’ve got this slipping gear issue with a few Hornby China locos. Do you apply the Superglue/Baking Soda mix either side of the cog in situ or do you take the wheel set apart to fix the cog again? I don’t have any problem with Bachmann locos pulling 25 wagons mind.
What I did was to clean away all oil with contact cleaner and lay the loco on it's side and put some tissue under the gear to ensure no glue runs to the bearing or wheel. Then dribble some glue onto the gear so it seeps into the fit between the gear and axle. Leave that for a good few hours as superglue added in volume takes a while to set. Then repeat the process. Then repeat a third time but on each side of the gear and dust a little baking soda on to the glue. Leave for a few hours. It's a very weak joint cause by poor quality plastic. But I think so long as the gear isn't cracked or split it should hold. I think replacing would be a short term fix and that it would happen again anyway. So even if I replaced with new gear and axle I'd glue it to help prevent the problem occurring again.
@@oobill thanks Bill, I’ve just heard back from Hornby, they’ve fixed the same issue on my Duke of Gloucester with a complete new wheel and valve gear set, no way I’m doing that with the older models they can’t/won’t fix. Thanks again 👍
Well done, all dcc ready locomotives have a plug plate which is in the dcc socket. Guess that one disappeared at some point that’s why you had to bypass the circuit board. Glad it all came together after many choice words. I’m same you do find yourself using a lot of choice words when things become very fiddly... are you gonna video the others....😎👍👍
Yeah this was "educational ". I now know what's in a dcc ready loco. I'm just used to the oldies. I will be doing videos of the others yes but a couple scare me.... 😬
Not a DCC man meself- but good to see what to do. I have avoided a couple of Zero Ones just lately and they were well looked after and well within Budget, so may not avoid the next time. Many Thanks DrBill
@@donniblanco5239 Some of the locos I've seen on ebay that have been converted for Zero 1 look very crudely done with big coloured wires sticking out the back of the the loco and holes drilled in bad places. Should be simple enough to convert back to DC though. All you have to do is get the motor connected directly to the pickups.
Nice looking engine - Hornby had some castles with the number painted onto the smokebox (as opposed to having a smokbox numberplate). It just ruined the look!
if you'd like some more subjects for your videos I have 2 2-6-2 hornby/mainline prairies that run like dogs and can probably find some other locos I own that are pains in the rear 😁
Hello 00bill bought a class 47 loco from ebay a couple of weeks it said it was a runner but put on my test track and nothing happened opened it up and found all the wires inside weren't attached allso the ringfield motor is totally different from what I've seen on vids on UA-cam i know where the bushes and springs go but there doesn't seem to anything to hold the springs in place??. Don't no if there's something missing on the motor to hold the springs in place.any advice would be great. Yours sincerely m cole
Oh I know all about superglue and baking soda. Used that trick for years on various projects. It's particularly useful for filling very small holes and gaps. It's commonly used to repair worn guitar nuts.
All DCC ready locomotives have a blanking plate where the DCC chip should go. The loco won't work unless the blanking plate is in place (it completes the electrical circuit)
Initially, I thought the loco was not running because there was no coal in the tender %~)) Just on coal in model loco tenders, how come they are always depicted as full to brimming and not partially used?
Fabulous Bill.. love watching your repairs.
I had the same with a hornby KIng Arthur. I bought a wheel set. Running fine now. Great video enjoyed watching. Regards Paul.
Well, well, well, what a job that was ! Personally I would loved to have heard all your expletives, I can only imagine ! I love watching your videos as they have inspired me to try to service my own locos. I did screw up my first attempt by damaging the coils in the motor but since then I have been successful, so far!!
I have to say though, that I couldn't have done any of this without watching your vids first. Many thanks for the confidence building that you have instilled in me. Cheers bud. lol x
Nice work Bill ,like to watch your repairs .well done .
I like all you repair videos, I look after my sons Locos. He has about 20 which i have converted to DCC including a couple of Trams. I only ever look at them when he says they bcome a problem. Maybe i should give each on a little oil now and again. Keep the videos coming Bill.
Well done Bill. I'm DC too so the electrickery of DCC passes me by too!
If you get locos like this of your own you should do some service videos as it seems you have some fantastic techniques!
i had a second hand loco with no dcc blanking plug i used a paper clip cut into two u shapes and plugged in at each end narrow way and that worked
That's clever.
👍🏻👍🏻
What a struggle! So if there are 4 more like that what does it say about John’s care of his locos?
good one bill, it`s a blanking plug which connects the points on the pcb or you would plug your dcc decoder into it,, is your customer running on dcc ?
Well done . That looks like a hornby railroad range model ? , I had the same gear issue on a hornby city of Leeds , dab of superglue does the trick as you’ve shown .
Presumably you put the dab of Superglue either side of the cog on the axle for it to seep into the hole?
@@mikep4821 . Yes . A very fine amount on a cocktail stick or pin usually , either side of the plastic gear cog so it is flush In application, obviously be careful not to get any glue on the teeth of the cog or across the rest of the axel .
New subscriber here. I find your videos soothing and informative.
Hi can you tell me if this is the same castle model that Hornby used for their early Hogwarts Castle. I had similar problems with the Hogwarts Castle. And yes like you this was a much newer model than i normally work with. i usually work with H/D, Wrenn and Triang engines. I removed the DCC wiring and connected direct to the motor just as you did. I do not use DCC. You could try Peters Spares for the gears.
Not sure about the Hogwarts. Peters spares doesn't have replacement gears or wheelset. I think the superglue will hold. I glued it three times with baking soda added to 3rd application.
@@oobill The Hogwarts Castle used in the film was, I believe, actually a Hall!
Hornby did use the above model for the early hogwarts model. (They have now correctly tooled it as a hall)
Thanks for the info. I thought it looked the same and had the same problems as mine.
Hi Bill, I’m learning loads from your videos and this one is no exception. Maybe because I have 8, 9 or 10-coach rakes I’ve got this slipping gear issue with a few Hornby China locos. Do you apply the Superglue/Baking Soda mix either side of the cog in situ or do you take the wheel set apart to fix the cog again? I don’t have any problem with Bachmann locos pulling 25 wagons mind.
What I did was to clean away all oil with contact cleaner and lay the loco on it's side and put some tissue under the gear to ensure no glue runs to the bearing or wheel. Then dribble some glue onto the gear so it seeps into the fit between the gear and axle. Leave that for a good few hours as superglue added in volume takes a while to set. Then repeat the process. Then repeat a third time but on each side of the gear and dust a little baking soda on to the glue. Leave for a few hours. It's a very weak joint cause by poor quality plastic. But I think so long as the gear isn't cracked or split it should hold. I think replacing would be a short term fix and that it would happen again anyway. So even if I replaced with new gear and axle I'd glue it to help prevent the problem occurring again.
@@oobill thanks Bill, I’ve just heard back from Hornby, they’ve fixed the same issue on my Duke of Gloucester with a complete new wheel and valve gear set, no way I’m doing that with the older models they can’t/won’t fix. Thanks again 👍
Another decent video well done on the fix,i much prefer the Ringfield motor than these blooming things.
Well done, all dcc ready locomotives have a plug plate which is in the dcc socket. Guess that one disappeared at some point that’s why you had to bypass the circuit board. Glad it all came together after many choice words. I’m same you do find yourself using a lot of choice words when things become very fiddly... are you gonna video the others....😎👍👍
Yeah this was "educational ". I now know what's in a dcc ready loco. I'm just used to the oldies. I will be doing videos of the others yes but a couple scare me.... 😬
@@oobill little steps off camera😞 all the very best and keeping the videos coming
Not a DCC man meself- but good to see what to do. I have avoided a couple of Zero Ones just lately and they were well looked after and well within Budget, so may not avoid the next time. Many Thanks DrBill
@@donniblanco5239 Some of the locos I've seen on ebay that have been converted for Zero 1 look very crudely done with big coloured wires sticking out the back of the the loco and holes drilled in bad places. Should be simple enough to convert back to DC though. All you have to do is get the motor connected directly to the pickups.
@@oobill Perfick Thanks Bill - Your Building quite a community - So Many Positive Comments Tips and Ideas in one place . 00Gold m8 👍🏻
Hi Tech DrBill. Good Job 👍🏻
You are a legend with this stuff. Is there anything you can't fix?
Lovely job!
I have a question - What makes the modern motors so much quieter than the older 80's/90's ones?
Pretty sure it's partly the axle bearings limiting the direct contract of metal on metal, among other things.
They used that as the original Hogwarts Castle hence the front light
Nice looking engine - Hornby had some castles with the number painted onto the smokebox (as opposed to having a smokbox numberplate). It just ruined the look!
Good one !
if you'd like some more subjects for your videos I have 2 2-6-2 hornby/mainline prairies that run like dogs and can probably find some other locos I own that are pains in the rear 😁
Mainline - (sharp intake of Breath) not always Smoothest of Runners, but Hey! You pays yer Money,you takes yer Choice!!😁😁
Hello 00bill bought a class 47 loco from ebay a couple of weeks it said it was a runner but put on my test track and nothing happened opened it up and found all the wires inside weren't attached allso the ringfield motor is totally different from what I've seen on vids on UA-cam i know where the bushes and springs go but there doesn't seem to anything to hold the springs in place??. Don't no if there's something missing on the motor to hold the springs in place.any advice would be great. Yours sincerely m cole
Complain to the seller! Can't advise without seeing pics though.
I worked on a Hornby Patriot with similar internals - complete nightmare. The pickups are tinfoil thickness and nothing seems built for longevity.
If I can give you a tip Bill...........A smidgeon of Bi-carb in the Superglue increases it strength and speed up the drying time
Oh I know all about superglue and baking soda. Used that trick for years on various projects. It's particularly useful for filling very small holes and gaps. It's commonly used to repair worn guitar nuts.
All DCC ready locomotives have a blanking plate where the DCC chip should go. The loco won't work unless the blanking plate is in place (it completes the electrical circuit)
Seriously, you didn’t notice the second that the body shell was removed that the DCC blanking plug was missing???
I've never seen the inside of a dcc ready loco. But I know now. Seriously!!!
Wont run without the blanking plate it's taken out to plug the dcc decoder in
The blanking plug is missing.
So it was missing its blanking plug amongst other things.
Initially, I thought the loco was not running because there was no coal in the tender %~)) Just on coal in model loco tenders, how come they are always depicted as full to brimming and not partially used?
To provide more room in the tender. e.g for the motor in tender drive models or for DCC/speakers, etc in more modern ones.
The model has the wrong tender for a castle