Kawasaki H1 H2 Clutch Replacement: Part 1 - Step-by-Step Guide
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- Ok this is part 1 of a clutch replacement on my H2. Should be very similar for the H1. I changed the oil seal also while in there, will do a seprate video of that. The re assembly will be in the playlist at the end when I get it edited and uploaded.
Part 2
• Kawasaki H1 H2 Clutch ...
Thanks to the following for the parts:
www.jessbikes.com
www.z1enterprises.com
Barnett Clutches
www.barnettclu...
Welcome to our UA-cam channel! In this video, we will guide you through the process of replacing the clutch on your Kawasaki H1 H2 motorcycle. Whether you have a vintage H1 or H2 model, we've got you covered.
Replacing the clutch is an essential maintenance task for ensuring optimal performance and smooth gear transitions. In this step-by-step guide, we'll walk you through the entire process, providing valuable insights and tips along the way.
We will discuss different clutch options, including popular choices like Barnett clutches and EBC clutches, known for their reliability and performance. Whether you prefer a wet clutch system or have specific preferences for your Kawasaki H1 H2, we'll address these aspects and help you choose the right clutch replacement for your needs.
This video is Part 1 of our comprehensive clutch replacement series, focusing on the initial steps and disassembly process. We'll cover everything from removing the clutch cover to accessing the clutch components. Stay tuned for Part 2, where we will dive into the installation and reassembly process.
Whether you're a vintage motorcycle enthusiast, a DIY enthusiast, or simply looking to maintain your Kawasaki H1 H2 clutch, this video is for you. Subscribe to our channel and hit the notification bell to stay updated on all our latest videos.
Join us on this journey to replace the clutch on your Kawasaki H1 H2 and ensure a smoother ride and enhanced performance. Get ready to take your riding experience to the next level with a perfectly functioning clutch.
A neat gasket trick is to 3M glue the gasket to the cover and apply “Chapstick” to the other side of the gasket. It seals perfectly and allows you to install and remove the cover many times.
If you work on Japan iron you need a set of JIS screwdrivers as they are the only ones designed to fit the screw heads correctly.
Thanks for the vid Greg. The guy that had the H1 before put a small crack on the bottom of the clutch cover. He sealed the crack with JB Weld. It doesn't leak, but decided to replace the cover anyway. Going to replace the clutch disks as well. Was wondering what I'd be dealing with removing the with the cover. Your detailed instructions showed me everything I need to know.
The clutch on the H2 is one of the easiest ones I have done. Biggest thing is Do Not over tighten the clutch basket. Those bolts are soft and will snap off. If you do, the good part is they are easy to tap out because they are soft, if you need to replace one or more, do not get a grade 8 or anything crazy because you can damage the clutch basket vs snapping a bolt. When you tighten them you just want to "crank" them a little more, but don't. lol Thanks for watching glad it helped.
great vid Greg nice work like a surgeon ! and the camera work as well.
Thank you for watching and I really appreciate the compliments.
Allen heads work for Phillip's heads and don,t strip out ,just an option most folks go to except not completely the oem look...
Very true. I have done several others with the Allen's, especially when I was racing them or just beating on them. Makes getting into the clutch, chain and other places much easier and faster. Can also replace with stainless instead of the zinc or pot metal that the oem ones are to keep the Phillips look but some harder material to get in and out. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video, but your clutch drag may have been down to the fact that the friction plates were installed the wrong way round, I think the slots are designed to fling the oil out and the clutch rotates anti-clockwise ?
Very possible, paid no attention to the way they rotated.... Had not done a clutch on one of those in years, they are probably going back and forth. I guess I paid more attention to the old clutch that did not have the slots angled but just the straight up and down plates. I'll throw that on a blog to see if anyone else agrees, and probably rip it apart. I still haven't adjusted the release yet, clutch works perfect til it gets warmed up, then just starts jerking, cannot release the handle like normal, just grabs no slip. Thanks for watching and pointing that out, your the first one to notice that.
Any comments on f-type automatic trans fluid in the clutch for more grip???
My first H2 back in the 80's I ran F-Type in it, had not issues but was also running the hand breaking Heavy springs from Barnette. I think if you're having slipping issues the fist thing I would do is upgrade the springs to a Medium or Heavy. Not sure if you have done that or know about it, not trying to "school" you on anything, but basically I've ran synthetic, f-type, sae30, just about any wet clutch lubricant and not noticed much difference but the clutch springs and making sure the slip is adjusted at the bottom and at the leaver made a world of difference for me. Oh and if you haven't tried to use the heavy clutch springs, lol you may want to get one of those little grip things to work on that hand, you will need it. Thanks for watching and taking a moment to comment.
JIS screwdriver?
Yes #3 on most, the ones holding the oil pump are a #2. Lots of people put in Allen bolts when they replace to make it easier to remove but I think you loose the "look" by doing that. When I use to drag race and had to pull the side off I used hex heads just to make easier. I've had them where you need a hand impact driver to remove the stuborn ones, if not I've had to drill a couple heads off and tap out the holes. Thanks for watching.