105 is an excellent group set. I wouldn’t call it entry level, that would be more like a Tiagra. The 105 is literally just a bit heavier than Ultegra, otherwise in terms of power they are virtually the same.
LOL exactly, I have Sora and is not even the most entry level 9 speed but super smooth. Claris is 8 and is not even the most entry level either. Shimano 105 rules is literally the ultegra of the people.
Tbh pretty much every video of you nowadays is an advertisement for one of your own products or a brand which is sponsoring you... Really miss the old times..
Purchased my first TT bike a little over two months ago. I came from pretty much no cycling experience and at first couldn’t even get on the bike. However, after a couple clipless pedal fails, I had it down after a few weeks. Time on the trainer helps immensely, and I would recommend anyone starting out fresh on a TT bike with no prior experience riding one should also invest in a trainer, just to get accommodated with the positioning on the bike before taking it out on the road. It’s intimidating at first but before you know it you’ll be ripping it up and down the road.
Shimano 105 is a perfectly good groupset. Still considered part of the higher end amongst shimano' s product line up. the main differentce to ultegra is the weight in the components and if you are going for a mechanical groupset I doubt the majority of people notice any difference. $3K is still a lot of money so for me a used bike is the best option possibly with some upgraded wheels. As for a new bike, unless one can affford, i would not go for ultegra and instead invest in wheels.
Stay away from 105? Are you assuming people want to pay significantly more to be 2-30 seconds faster in a full ironman. 105 is solid! Anyone who says otherwise is a snob. Getting anything above 105 for a mechanical groupset is a waste. Obviously electronic groupset start at the Ultegra level so that's different. The functionality between 105 and Ultegra mechanical is identical. 105 just comes at a moderate weight penalty (about 2 grams heavier for that front derailleur). Put it in context
This is very good advice people. I believe Taren is not bashing 105’s. His point is resale and he is 100 % correct. FOR RESLAE ANYTHING BETTER THAN 105 WILL MOVE THE BIKE FASTER. The best advice in the video is to not by a tri bike right away. Get a decent road bike or gravel bike as it will open up your riding options. I jumped right in and bought a Tri bike before I started training and while I use it strictly for indoor training and racing, I use it for nothing else. I had to go out and buy a road bike to do group rides and actually cycle with people and on the street. If anyone has taken a tri bike out on busy streets or any area where you can’t get in the aero position for an extended period of time you will know what I am saying. As for the bikes. I own a couple canyons and I love them. Very good quality products.
Speedmax is a cool looking bike and its fast, but a couple things for people considering Canyon. They use a different size fork, so standard parts don't fit (probably fine until something breaks or a size change is wanted). Their frames in low end bikes are the same geometry the as the pro level bikes. This is great for aerodynamics, but many age groupers could need lots of risers to make the bike fit. If you look at Mark on the other tri channel, even he has tons of risers and he is former pro level. For me, the "entry level" geometry is more comfortable, more stable and much easier to stay in the aerobars, I have owned both general geometries (though not a speedmax but a well used higher end bike). I recommend used or end of the season sale. P2's (now old version), can be had for under 2k (not with shipping right now at comp cyclist). The geometry is comfy for me.
Having done my first few triathlons on a road bike with clip on bars, ( works great especially for IM Wales and other hilly routes) the feeling around T1 when you see all the Tri bikes, you can't help but want one. I went for the Argon and its not skipped a beat yet plus matt black never goes out of fashion.
Sorry Taren, there is this GCN video showing the real difference between 105 and ultegra and dura ace and a lot of sites showing the very small influence for your money that an ultegra groupset will do. This time i have to say it again... it's real, you are slipping away from the real world. The problem is... the real world is the world that subscribe.
@@bedamats8255 nothing wrong with that, and no issue people plugging sponsors but when its sort of hidden in a video it just grates. Do it Sage Canaday style, first min of every video is a plug for his 10 sponsors lol and then onto the content.
he is a bit of a victim of his own sucess, you want regular videos and content. but the creator needs money. i dont mind the shameless plug but just needs a bit of a disclaimer to balance the content.
Stuweb Race Timing yep I agree tuff balance to strike. He needs to earn but be impartial too, how?! Think there are more and more blatant plugs which is a shame.
Taren, I think your living in a different world having all of your sponsors. With the high cost of entry fees, wet suit and other equipment this is not a sport that encourages people to get started in. I would like to see you post information on tri bikes from 500-15000. Thanks
My first tri bike was a 200 dollar second hand second hand second hand bike.... Still i managed to be one of the quickest on the bike, wish i could swim tough.
I wouldn’t recommend the Ventum if your looking for resale. Wouldn’t you want something that is UCI legal so you have a chance to sell it to a road cyclist to use for TT’s. A Ventum takes those people away from that market.
Hi Taren.. You are one fit man let me tell you. Congrats! I am new to the sport and back 1.5 years ago i bought my first tri bike. A 2010 Qunita Roo Kilo, but I as have come to learn more about the sport I have realized this is a super basic bike with 105 group set. Rim size at 650 is an issue so i am looking to upgrade to something about five years old. I have looked at Cannondale and Felt B14. Any feedback is MUCH appreciated. Thank you and keep on triking..
Shimano 105 is a cracking groupset. It might not have the "wow" factor of Ultegra or the pizzazz or Dura-ace, but its solid, it works and (for those of us on a budget) perfect. Also i think your list is a bit biased....what about the Giant Trinity, or Specialized Shiv?
I have a Speedmax CF 8 (the previous version) and I love it. The only thing I'd like would be the extra storage that's on the new model, but besides that it's an amazing bike for the price.
Taren you said get ultegra, DA, Force or Red, but then most of the bikes had 105. 105 is a perfectly good groups for getting into the sport. I'd say deep section wheels are more important than upgrading from 105-ultegra. But go 2nd hand all the way. I've just built a Fuji Norcom Straight 1.1 with Enve SES smart aero TT bars, Full Dura ace and Novatec R5/R9 wheels for
Still recommend a good road bike with the Redshift system. Allows you to get your seat to be in both road and aerobar position...best $330 I ever spent. The money I saved allows me buy vector 3's, a better brain bucket, better shorts, tri suit, etc. I got a hell of a lot more speed for $3k than a tribike ever would. Also...105 is actually really really good for Tri. The better sets offer very little for Tri other than a few 100grams. You might save a few watts....I just say, lose a 1/2 lb of weight. Shoe covers or a brain bucket will get you more performance than going from 105 to higher. Regardless, the $3k bikes are about as good as you can get w/o spending $1000's for a few watts.
Hear hear! I too have the Redshift Aero system on my CAAD8 bike. It's pretty solid, and still quite fast. Obviously it doesn't have the best aerodynamics, nor does it give break any records. I use it to train and to race Sprints and Oly's. Yet, you touch on an interesting point: after a certain threshold of spending (which I estimate at 3500 USD if going full carbon with carbon wheels), your dollars-per-watt saved starts to drop off in huge amounts. There comes a point where it's about chasing "Marginal Gains". Of course, where that point is up to your budget. There's a few components and parts that can make things a bit easier to save some watts, and I found the Redshift Aero System to be quite handy in that regard. Combine with aero wheels, and a few things here and there and there's plenty of watts saved. Oh, and physical fitness counts. Losing some weight after quarantine is a much more economical way of saving watts. 👍
@@daveebreo8753 Domane AL 3. Just wanted enough gears to not feel "choked". The next stepup in most road bikes lands up going more near $2k (more carbon + better gear set). As much as I "wanted", I knew I needed a power meter first. I have just learned so much from the power meter about myself and what not to do. Don't get me wrong..if you got the cheddar and spending it doesn't cause you financial burden...then by all means, go forth and get the good stuff. I'll just glance longingly with love. My final bike will probably be some near what TT showed here. They all are really good bikes IMO. However, if I ever even remotely see a chance of qualifying for Kona in my life...well, then all bets are off on how much I will spend. ;)
I'll be sticking with my 8 year old road bike with aero bars, until it falls apart! Triathlon is so expensive, I just can't justify a new bike :/ Though when I do go for a new bike, I'll definitely be looking for a really good second hand road bike since it is much more versatile for me (and I don't have space available for two bikes)!
I got an almost brand new 2019 Giant Trinity Advanced Pro with Di2 and HED race wheels for under $3K. The bike has been awesome. Sooooo much bike for the money and a pretty smooth ride as well. If it fits you it's hard to beat the Trinity in bang for the buck. And in the US there are Giant dealers everywhere. I have a Giant LBS less than 15 mins from home. You can't say that about most of the other bikes you recommended.
Campagnolo parts hard to find? Reason I switched back to Campagnolo was unobtainability of Shimano parts! I know a bunch of shops where I can get whatever spare I need. One where I walk in asking for an adj screw for a 40+ yo Nuovo Record derailleur and get asked "Do you want alloy, steel, or Ti?". I'll also need far less spares / replacements on a Campagnolo Groupset.
There are more out there. What do you think about this ones. Giant - TRINITY ADVANCED Kestrel Talon X Kestrel 5000SL Cannondale Slice BMC TIMEMACHINE 2 QUINTANA ROO SCOTT PLASMA
@@neilawuk Agree, many bike mags love it and gave it best on test. I use one and clocked a 5.5 hour bike split in a full ironman on mine, with 105. Definitely worthy of a mention here, everyone stocks Giant, probably the biggest bicycle manufacturers in the world.
You can also do Time Trials with a tribike. However crits ban them and some group rides because it takes you a bit longer to hit the brakes. Felt bikes are huge with women, think they would have a better resale.
Well actually 105 groupset is much better for entry level, is more durable than Ultegra or Dura-ace, easier in maintaining and not so costly in replacing some parts. Finally entry level person won’t feel any difference between 105 and Ultegra at all!
Hi, I'm from Brazil and I'm trying to start in the triathlon, I'm looking for a used bike and found an argon 18 E-114. What do you think ? Good ? Do you think it's too old? Thank you for your help. I'm a fan of your channel. See you!
The actual differences between 105 and ultegra/dura ace are basically so small at this point that the overwhelming majority of age group athletes wouldn't notice (until you get into electronic sets). GCN did a video about it a year ago and even as dedicated road riders found it tough to tell blind in terms of shift feel. 105 is the best bang for your buck by far and shouldnt be shied away from.
Depending on where you set your goals in an event, whilst a TT bike will yeild benefits of speed. you can probably get an outgoing full carbon road bike with ultegra group set and entry level deep section wheels for 1500 USD, New with a warranty. you can train on it everywhere group rides and the like and drop some clip on aero bars for the racing.. If you really then want to move up the list you can save for a purpose Iron-distance TT build and have a nice road bike to train on.
I would like to address all those comments lately about the promotion happening here. The ONLY reason this channel and ALL similar channels exists, is PROMOTION. PROMOTION (of taren's services and books and of his business partners) is the main goal and everything else are fillers. Treat this channel and all similar channels as entertainment and when the time comes to buy anything, do your market research first and then buy. Keep up the entertainment Taren!
QR PR 4 Disc $ 2,834.10. Not sure why it isn't on this list. Its made in Tennessee by a company who is in the forefront in the market. Ventum??? Hell Nawl!!!!
What about buying a bike with the 105 group set then updating the components instead of trying to sell and buy new? I would assume most of us can't afford to upgrade to a new bike after a couple of years.
When you say triathlon bike you mean Long distance triathlon. Resale value (in my opinion) shouldn't be considered when buying a bycicle, first and most important you have to like the looks of it second is the bike fit, you have to be able to adjust everything until you find the position that suits you. Shimano 105? The best groupset for the first bike, cheap to buy and super reliable. For a first bike I also recommend some nice carbon wheels, you need that sound to give you motivation.
Hi Everyone. I am looking for buying my first TriBike, second hand. I found 2 bikes that fit my budget but I am not sure which one to go for. Here's the dilemma: TREK Speedconcept 7.5 with Shimano Ultegra OR Quintana Roo Ilicito with Sram Red. Any advice would be highly appreciated :) Thanks a lot and keep strong Trainiacs :)
I agree with buying a bike of a common brand and also an easy to resell one, which is exactly why i would never buy a Ventum... that bike is not even UCI legal, no cyclist outside from triathlon would buy it. Also 105 isn't entry level at all since it's probably the best price/quality mechanical shimano groupset
He said he was talking about resale value between Ultegra and 105. Not comparing performance. And for my $0.02 ... While this shifters and brakes may not feel different, the difference between Ultegra front and back derailleurs is VERY noticeable and Ultegra feels much smoother. But again, that wasn't his point. Nice video Taren.
IF you can afford it, start with a mid -range bike ($3-6K) range. You will get most of the features of a high-end bike but the mid range bike will weigh a bit more. You will get higher, longer-lasting quality with mid-range than an entry-level bike and you won't want to upgrade as soon. Once you go above mid-range, you are paying more (sometimes much, much more) for only slightly less weight. At that point, it only matters if you are pushing into the elite AG side of things.
1st triathlon was on my mountain bike. :-( Heavy, and slow. then I got a high end road bike that I got used and eventually got the Cervelo P2 new, but upgraded to the Di2 ultegra so much nicer than just the standard P2. Now the question is in the next year or two if I consider moving to a hydraulic disc brake upgraded tri bike, what to go with? I still like the di2 and ok with ultregra vs durace, but prefer better than 105. Not sure I like the ventum. Any recommendations? Also hard to really know best option between say a P5 or P5x or likewise P3 / P3x, with / without a downtube similar but different than the ventum.
Other than the Canyon - I'm not sure that any of these actually comes in under budget for something that you'd take to a race. Who is dropping $3K on a bike to go and ride it on ultra cheap aluminum wheels? Figure on another $1500 plus for most of those bikes - putting them in the under $5K range realistically. As many of the comments suggest 105 is a perfectly good setup....but Taren is probably right in that the resale will be lower because some people are looking for ultegra and up only. The points he mentioned before the list are probably more helpful than the list. Buying a used bike for your first crack would probably get you a similar bike to those on his list - but already including the aero wheels. Best advice there is to think about going for an aero road bike and getting a good set of aero bars. It gives you a lot more versatility with just 1 bike.
Nah just get a Tri bike and get fit for it. Most places offer a fit if you buy from store. Or if you must buy online because of large cost savings then search for a bike fit place local ish. I did a perfectly good time of 2:45 as a first time amateur for a half on a road bike. Granted it was an expensive one. Personally looking back I spent the majority of big bike rides on my winter bike. Big rides and group rides into the 100 miles. All on my 700 cheap winter bike because the expensive race bike was extremely costly to put that many miles on dura ace. And it’s also race aggressive. Personally an expensive comfortable road bike is key. It sounds bad but you don’t want to put huge miles on your race bike, you really need to keep it as an expensive wall hanger until race day or key race practice rides. If you can afford 5k plus bikes for every bike in your arsenal then brill then do what I did and use your race bike through winter but be prepared for a huge service bill come summer or getting it ready for a race. But one thing I did get was a comfort level on my main race bike that was just awkward getting onto anything else. Expensive sport. The 700 gbp bike was slower than my 10k bike. It’s noticeable. But whether or not you or any one can justify super bike money is completely a personal thing. I personally would be looking at something like a Specialized rubbaix 3k or above spec if you can stretch to it. Most roads are trash in Britain and 100 miles on race carbon is just rubbish, Lesson learned. Also make sure it’s got disc and frame built for the 28 sized tyres. Just think about which bike you put the most miles on and which you use once for race day.
I purchased a set of Red Shift aero bars for my road bike so i could snap them on and off quickly. Super stable, super nice, and raced with these through one season while getting comfortable with the sensation of hanging out over the front wheel. 180$ purchase, sold them used for 125$ in less than an hour. It made the process for me super easy in terms of moving forward with a TT bike, and for 55$ net it was an easy investment. In short, the cheap ones are janky - get something decent that feels stable - and you will get most of your money back. You will need to adjust your fit on the bike - to get to the aero bars will take some adjustment.
I know its poshy, but I cant ride without di2 on a tri bike. Living in a city makes it pretty dangerous not to have shifters on the bullhorns with the brakes.
I also don't see the advantage of Ultegra over 105, small weight savings, less durability. Resale value? No clue. But one thing pops to mind, usually I don't even shift gears or brake during the long rides in training. Why? Triathlon (tt) cycling consists of (mostly) races on flat roads. If its hilly, then much cheaper and lighter road (-3kgs) bikes have an advantage. Currently I would love to own one, but its just not necessary, road bike w tri bars is enough for now.
Great video. I'm just getting into triathlon but coming from cycling, so I have a decent road bike. I had been considering upgrading it next year, but now that I've gotten into triathlon, I may make a tri bike my next purchase. What depth of race wheels do you consider decent for a first bike (ie, above the bare minimum but not top end)?
Do you know if Liv bikes are good bikes for women? My fiance is looking for her first tri-bike but I don't want her to get duped by misleading marketing. They claim to be made for women but I'd assume all brands can claim that.
I think you’ve missed how much comfort needs to be considered and that should be no1 on the list, you won’t want to ride it if you can’t get comfy and it’s got multiple adjustments! The giant trinity is probably better then all the ones you’ve mentioned for that!
Buy a 105 aluminium bike for about £1000 and take ya family on holiday. Unless ya getting paid to race, keep resisting loosing ya head up your own bottom.
I bought myself a used Specialized Transition with full Ultegra groupset last year for only €600 and it works great! Did a bike-fit and i´m sure, when i will sell it someday, i will get more than if it´s with a 105 groupset. So i stick with Taren. Go get Ultegra or even Dura-Ace and it will be much easier to resell!
I wouldn't recommend Ventum or Canyon for beginner as those are strictly direct to consumer sellers. I would only suggest something you can go to a store and out your hands on before purchase.
what is your problem with 105? you're acting like it's trash compared to mechanical ultegra R8000 when the ONLY differences are weight and the price 105 shifts IDENTICAL
dont get this - why should it be harder to get parts for one bike-brand from another. The only brand specific thing is the frame.... Everything else is standard, bearings, groupset, handlbars, brakes..
I’m enjoying the bike so far ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
105 is an excellent group set. I wouldn’t call it entry level, that would be more like a Tiagra. The 105 is literally just a bit heavier than Ultegra, otherwise in terms of power they are virtually the same.
LOL exactly, I have Sora and is not even the most entry level 9 speed but super smooth. Claris is 8 and is not even the most entry level either. Shimano 105 rules is literally the ultegra of the people.
Tbh pretty much every video of you nowadays is an advertisement for one of your own products or a brand which is sponsoring you... Really miss the old times..
Jakob yeh I’m starting to feel that too, sad tbh.
Purchased my first TT bike a little over two months ago. I came from pretty much no cycling experience and at first couldn’t even get on the bike. However, after a couple clipless pedal fails, I had it down after a few weeks. Time on the trainer helps immensely, and I would recommend anyone starting out fresh on a TT bike with no prior experience riding one should also invest in a trainer, just to get accommodated with the positioning on the bike before taking it out on the road. It’s intimidating at first but before you know it you’ll be ripping it up and down the road.
Shimano 105 is a perfectly good groupset. Still considered part of the higher end amongst shimano' s product line up. the main differentce to ultegra is the weight in the components and if you are going for a mechanical groupset I doubt the majority of people notice any difference. $3K is still a lot of money so for me a used bike is the best option possibly with some upgraded wheels. As for a new bike, unless one can affford, i would not go for ultegra and instead invest in wheels.
Stay away from 105? Are you assuming people want to pay significantly more to be 2-30 seconds faster in a full ironman. 105 is solid! Anyone who says otherwise is a snob. Getting anything above 105 for a mechanical groupset is a waste. Obviously electronic groupset start at the Ultegra level so that's different. The functionality between 105 and Ultegra mechanical is identical. 105 just comes at a moderate weight penalty (about 2 grams heavier for that front derailleur). Put it in context
Completely agree. 105 is a very good groupset for the price
Truth
105 is king
Agreed
I also agree. However, due to marketing probably, the advice is probably good from the reselling perspective.
This is very good advice people. I believe Taren is not bashing 105’s. His point is resale and he is 100 % correct. FOR RESLAE ANYTHING BETTER THAN 105 WILL MOVE THE BIKE FASTER. The best advice in the video is to not by a tri bike right away. Get a decent road bike or gravel bike as it will open up your riding options. I jumped right in and bought a Tri bike before I started training and while I use it strictly for indoor training and racing, I use it for nothing else. I had to go out and buy a road bike to do group rides and actually cycle with people and on the street. If anyone has taken a tri bike out on busy streets or any area where you can’t get in the aero position for an extended period of time you will know what I am saying. As for the bikes. I own a couple canyons and I love them. Very good quality products.
I got a Speedmax 8.0 about two months ago and I greatly recommend. I couldn't be more satisfied.
Speedmax is a cool looking bike and its fast, but a couple things for people considering Canyon. They use a different size fork, so standard parts don't fit (probably fine until something breaks or a size change is wanted). Their frames in low end bikes are the same geometry the as the pro level bikes. This is great for aerodynamics, but many age groupers could need lots of risers to make the bike fit. If you look at Mark on the other tri channel, even he has tons of risers and he is former pro level. For me, the "entry level" geometry is more comfortable, more stable and much easier to stay in the aerobars, I have owned both general geometries (though not a speedmax but a well used higher end bike). I recommend used or end of the season sale. P2's (now old version), can be had for under 2k (not with shipping right now at comp cyclist). The geometry is comfy for me.
Hopefully you mentioned the other big tip, buy your bike at end of season ideally (or last year's model)
Having done my first few triathlons on a road bike with clip on bars, ( works great especially for IM Wales and other hilly routes) the feeling around T1 when you see all the Tri bikes, you can't help but want one. I went for the Argon and its not skipped a beat yet plus matt black never goes out of fashion.
I also feel like I'm being sold something in all the videos and podcasts lately, not what drew me in initially
Sorry Taren, there is this GCN video showing the real difference between 105 and ultegra and dura ace and a lot of sites showing the very small influence for your money that an ultegra groupset will do. This time i have to say it again... it's real, you are slipping away from the real world. The problem is... the real world is the world that subscribe.
let me guess before i watch, one of your sponsors is the best or is very near the best :rollseyes:
At 12k views though, he probably has a spare swim spa on order. Needs ppl to stop watching if he want to stop this tripe...
How dare he work for a living! The nerve!
@@bedamats8255 nothing wrong with that, and no issue people plugging sponsors but when its sort of hidden in a video it just grates. Do it Sage Canaday style, first min of every video is a plug for his 10 sponsors lol and then onto the content.
he is a bit of a victim of his own sucess, you want regular videos and content. but the creator needs money. i dont mind the shameless plug but just needs a bit of a disclaimer to balance the content.
Stuweb Race Timing yep I agree tuff balance to strike. He needs to earn but be impartial too, how?! Think there are more and more blatant plugs which is a shame.
Taren, I think your living in a different world having all of your sponsors. With the high cost of entry fees, wet suit and other equipment this is not a sport that encourages people to get started in. I would like to see you post information on tri bikes from 500-15000. Thanks
Almost all tri bikes are between 500 and 15000
Pretty sure you can get something half decent at about 8000, hopefully ;)
My first tri bike was a 200 dollar second hand second hand second hand bike.... Still i managed to be one of the quickest on the bike, wish i could swim tough.
www.triuk.com/Triathlon-Bikes/Cannondale/Cannondale-Slice-105-Team-Replica-Mens-Triathlon-Package-Black-or-Lime
I wouldn’t recommend the Ventum if your looking for resale. Wouldn’t you want something that is UCI legal so you have a chance to sell it to a road cyclist to use for TT’s. A Ventum takes those people away from that market.
I think that is a sponsor.
Would you recommend a specialized shiv? For me it’s a great bike in the range that you are talking about...
I have a Specialized Shiv and I love it
So excited to rock my used Fuji road bike for my first season 😅😂
taren I never had you down as a snob fella....105 is a banging groupset anything above is just a bit lighter.
Hi Taren.. You are one fit man let me tell you. Congrats! I am new to the sport and back 1.5 years ago i bought my first tri bike. A 2010 Qunita Roo Kilo, but I as have come to learn more about the sport I have realized this is a super basic bike with 105 group set. Rim size at 650 is an issue so i am looking to upgrade to something about five years old. I have looked at Cannondale and Felt B14. Any feedback is MUCH appreciated. Thank you and keep on triking..
Shimano 105 is a cracking groupset. It might not have the "wow" factor of Ultegra or the pizzazz or Dura-ace, but its solid, it works and (for those of us on a budget) perfect. Also i think your list is a bit biased....what about the Giant Trinity, or Specialized Shiv?
Hi Taren is there a reason giant trinity not in ur list. Feels like a steal!
I have a Speedmax CF 8 (the previous version) and I love it. The only thing I'd like would be the extra storage that's on the new model, but besides that it's an amazing bike for the price.
Taren you said get ultegra, DA, Force or Red, but then most of the bikes had 105. 105 is a perfectly good groups for getting into the sport. I'd say deep section wheels are more important than upgrading from 105-ultegra. But go 2nd hand all the way. I've just built a Fuji Norcom Straight 1.1 with Enve SES smart aero TT bars, Full Dura ace and Novatec R5/R9 wheels for
I have the argon
I got the full Ultegra 8000 for 2200 new out the door
It was last year model but it’s the same as new models except color
Man! I was shopping for a new bike this weekend! Looking forward to a full ironman in August 2021 after this corona shit.
i ordered my speedmax yesterday, getting ready for next summer
Still recommend a good road bike with the Redshift system. Allows you to get your seat to be in both road and aerobar position...best $330 I ever spent. The money I saved allows me buy vector 3's, a better brain bucket, better shorts, tri suit, etc. I got a hell of a lot more speed for $3k than a tribike ever would.
Also...105 is actually really really good for Tri. The better sets offer very little for Tri other than a few 100grams. You might save a few watts....I just say, lose a 1/2 lb of weight. Shoe covers or a brain bucket will get you more performance than going from 105 to higher.
Regardless, the $3k bikes are about as good as you can get w/o spending $1000's for a few watts.
@trepidati0n what bike did u end up getting?
Hear hear! I too have the Redshift Aero system on my CAAD8 bike. It's pretty solid, and still quite fast. Obviously it doesn't have the best aerodynamics, nor does it give break any records. I use it to train and to race Sprints and Oly's.
Yet, you touch on an interesting point: after a certain threshold of spending (which I estimate at 3500 USD if going full carbon with carbon wheels), your dollars-per-watt saved starts to drop off in huge amounts. There comes a point where it's about chasing "Marginal Gains". Of course, where that point is up to your budget.
There's a few components and parts that can make things a bit easier to save some watts, and I found the Redshift Aero System to be quite handy in that regard. Combine with aero wheels, and a few things here and there and there's plenty of watts saved.
Oh, and physical fitness counts. Losing some weight after quarantine is a much more economical way of saving watts. 👍
@@daveebreo8753 Domane AL 3. Just wanted enough gears to not feel "choked". The next stepup in most road bikes lands up going more near $2k (more carbon + better gear set). As much as I "wanted", I knew I needed a power meter first. I have just learned so much from the power meter about myself and what not to do.
Don't get me wrong..if you got the cheddar and spending it doesn't cause you financial burden...then by all means, go forth and get the good stuff. I'll just glance longingly with love.
My final bike will probably be some near what TT showed here. They all are really good bikes IMO. However, if I ever even remotely see a chance of qualifying for Kona in my life...well, then all bets are off on how much I will spend. ;)
The entry level Ventum was $3400 to my door. The FELT B was $1800 for a new 2019 including a bike fit. Easy math to make up my mind.
I've been looking for this in youtube. You're really reliable.
I'll be sticking with my 8 year old road bike with aero bars, until it falls apart! Triathlon is so expensive, I just can't justify a new bike :/ Though when I do go for a new bike, I'll definitely be looking for a really good second hand road bike since it is much more versatile for me (and I don't have space available for two bikes)!
I got an almost brand new 2019 Giant Trinity Advanced Pro with Di2 and HED race wheels for under $3K. The bike has been awesome. Sooooo much bike for the money and a pretty smooth ride as well. If it fits you it's hard to beat the Trinity in bang for the buck. And in the US there are Giant dealers everywhere. I have a Giant LBS less than 15 mins from home. You can't say that about most of the other bikes you recommended.
What are the more reliable vendors for these bikes. I do like the Canyon Speedmax CF?
What about Ribble Ultra Tri?
Hey! Do you own one or you just found them browsing the internet???
Cervelo P2 for tri/tt + Specialized allez sprint for road are all you really need to qualify for Kona and win crit races
Really, I've got a similar one like the Allez and to thought about getting a more expensive one
Campagnolo parts hard to find? Reason I switched back to Campagnolo was unobtainability of Shimano parts! I know a bunch of shops where I can get whatever spare I need. One where I walk in asking for an adj screw for a 40+ yo Nuovo Record derailleur and get asked "Do you want alloy, steel, or Ti?". I'll also need far less spares / replacements on a Campagnolo Groupset.
There are more out there.
What do you think about this ones.
Giant - TRINITY ADVANCED
Kestrel Talon X
Kestrel 5000SL
Cannondale Slice
BMC TIMEMACHINE 2
QUINTANA ROO
SCOTT PLASMA
Yep ive got a trinity and not sure it can be beaten at its price point. It constantly gets rave reviews for the price.
@@neilawuk Agree, many bike mags love it and gave it best on test. I use one and clocked a 5.5 hour bike split in a full ironman on mine, with 105. Definitely worthy of a mention here, everyone stocks Giant, probably the biggest bicycle manufacturers in the world.
You can also do Time Trials with a tribike. However crits ban them and some group rides because it takes you a bit longer to hit the brakes. Felt bikes are huge with women, think they would have a better resale.
Well actually 105 groupset is much better for entry level, is more durable than Ultegra or Dura-ace, easier in maintaining and not so costly in replacing some parts. Finally entry level person won’t feel any difference between 105 and Ultegra at all!
Hi, I'm from Brazil and I'm trying to start in the triathlon, I'm looking for a used bike and found an argon 18 E-114. What do you think ? Good ? Do you think it's too old? Thank you for your help. I'm a fan of your channel. See you!
The actual differences between 105 and ultegra/dura ace are basically so small at this point that the overwhelming majority of age group athletes wouldn't notice (until you get into electronic sets). GCN did a video about it a year ago and even as dedicated road riders found it tough to tell blind in terms of shift feel. 105 is the best bang for your buck by far and shouldnt be shied away from.
Depending on where you set your goals in an event, whilst a TT bike will yeild benefits of speed. you can probably get an outgoing full carbon road bike with ultegra group set and entry level deep section wheels for 1500 USD, New with a warranty. you can train on it everywhere group rides and the like and drop some clip on aero bars for the racing.. If you really then want to move up the list you can save for a purpose Iron-distance TT build and have a nice road bike to train on.
I would like to address all those comments lately about the promotion happening here. The ONLY reason this channel and ALL similar channels exists, is PROMOTION. PROMOTION (of taren's services and books and of his business partners) is the main goal and everything else are fillers. Treat this channel and all similar channels as entertainment and when the time comes to buy anything, do your market research first and then buy. Keep up the entertainment Taren!
I spent $500 on a used road bike for my first triathlon and then added aero bars. Would never have spent $3k for my first tri bike
Same here :)
I got a used Kestral Talon Tri barely any miles on it for 500
Where could I find a place to buy used bikes in USA?
Do you think disc brakes are worth it?
I this is entry level, I'd hate to see hi end. Beautiful bikes here. Some look a bit more aero than others.
QR PR 4 Disc $ 2,834.10. Not sure why it isn't on this list. Its made in Tennessee by a company who is in the forefront in the market. Ventum??? Hell Nawl!!!!
I love my PR 4
What height person is this recommended for?
Giant Trinity is $2,400 and it can be UCI legal too
What about buying a bike with the 105 group set then updating the components instead of trying to sell and buy new? I would assume most of us can't afford to upgrade to a new bike after a couple of years.
Are tri bikes not welcome in group rides?
Custom Bike Fit on UA-cam or .com is an amazing resource for bike buying used or new and bike fitting.
When you say triathlon bike you mean Long distance triathlon. Resale value (in my opinion) shouldn't be considered when buying a bycicle, first and most important you have to like the looks of it second is the bike fit, you have to be able to adjust everything until you find the position that suits you. Shimano 105? The best groupset for the first bike, cheap to buy and super reliable. For a first bike I also recommend some nice carbon wheels, you need that sound to give you motivation.
Hi Everyone. I am looking for buying my first TriBike, second hand. I found 2 bikes that fit my budget but I am not sure which one to go for. Here's the dilemma: TREK Speedconcept 7.5 with Shimano Ultegra OR Quintana Roo Ilicito with Sram Red. Any advice would be highly appreciated :) Thanks a lot and keep strong Trainiacs :)
I agree with buying a bike of a common brand and also an easy to resell one, which is exactly why i would never buy a Ventum... that bike is not even UCI legal, no cyclist outside from triathlon would buy it.
Also 105 isn't entry level at all since it's probably the best price/quality mechanical shimano groupset
The fit is everything...almost:)
Taren, love the hoodie, what is it?
He said he was talking about resale value between Ultegra and 105. Not comparing performance. And for my $0.02 ... While this shifters and brakes may not feel different, the difference between Ultegra front and back derailleurs is VERY noticeable and Ultegra feels much smoother. But again, that wasn't his point. Nice video Taren.
speaking of cycling anyone can suggest a good online training or coaching platform?
IF you can afford it, start with a mid -range bike ($3-6K) range. You will get most of the features of a high-end bike but the mid range bike will weigh a bit more. You will get higher, longer-lasting quality with mid-range than an entry-level bike and you won't want to upgrade as soon. Once you go above mid-range, you are paying more (sometimes much, much more) for only slightly less weight. At that point, it only matters if you are pushing into the elite AG side of things.
1st triathlon was on my mountain bike. :-( Heavy, and slow. then I got a high end road bike that I got used and eventually got the Cervelo P2 new, but upgraded to the Di2 ultegra so much nicer than just the standard P2. Now the question is in the next year or two if I consider moving to a hydraulic disc brake upgraded tri bike, what to go with? I still like the di2 and ok with ultregra vs durace, but prefer better than 105. Not sure I like the ventum. Any recommendations? Also hard to really know best option between say a P5 or P5x or likewise P3 / P3x, with / without a downtube similar but different than the ventum.
Do u use your triathlon bike regularly??? Or do u have for let's say weekend rides a Roadbike ???
A good deal on a new generation felt is what i would recomend //cervelo pro bike owner
Was scratching my head about the pronunciation of "Shimano" but at the end you mentioned Canada so that must be it...
Other than the Canyon - I'm not sure that any of these actually comes in under budget for something that you'd take to a race. Who is dropping $3K on a bike to go and ride it on ultra cheap aluminum wheels? Figure on another $1500 plus for most of those bikes - putting them in the under $5K range realistically. As many of the comments suggest 105 is a perfectly good setup....but Taren is probably right in that the resale will be lower because some people are looking for ultegra and up only. The points he mentioned before the list are probably more helpful than the list. Buying a used bike for your first crack would probably get you a similar bike to those on his list - but already including the aero wheels. Best advice there is to think about going for an aero road bike and getting a good set of aero bars. It gives you a lot more versatility with just 1 bike.
Would you recommend trying out clip on aero bars to test out the different position before going full in for a tri bike?
Nah just get a Tri bike and get fit for it. Most places offer a fit if you buy from store. Or if you must buy online because of large cost savings then search for a bike fit place local ish. I did a perfectly good time of 2:45 as a first time amateur for a half on a road bike. Granted it was an expensive one.
Personally looking back I spent the majority of big bike rides on my winter bike. Big rides and group rides into the 100 miles. All on my 700 cheap winter bike because the expensive race bike was extremely costly to put that many miles on dura ace. And it’s also race aggressive. Personally an expensive comfortable road bike is key. It sounds bad but you don’t want to put huge miles on your race bike, you really need to keep it as an expensive wall hanger until race day or key race practice rides. If you can afford 5k plus bikes for every bike in your arsenal then brill then do what I did and use your race bike through winter but be prepared for a huge service bill come summer or getting it ready for a race. But one thing I did get was a comfort level on my main race bike that was just awkward getting onto anything else. Expensive sport. The 700 gbp bike was slower than my 10k bike. It’s noticeable. But whether or not you or any one can justify super bike money is completely a personal thing. I personally would be looking at something like a Specialized rubbaix 3k or above spec if you can stretch to it. Most roads are trash in Britain and 100 miles on race carbon is just rubbish, Lesson learned. Also make sure it’s got disc and frame built for the 28 sized tyres. Just think about which bike you put the most miles on and which you use once for race day.
I purchased a set of Red Shift aero bars for my road bike so i could snap them on and off quickly. Super stable, super nice, and raced with these through one season while getting comfortable with the sensation of hanging out over the front wheel. 180$ purchase, sold them used for 125$ in less than an hour. It made the process for me super easy in terms of moving forward with a TT bike, and for 55$ net it was an easy investment. In short, the cheap ones are janky - get something decent that feels stable - and you will get most of your money back. You will need to adjust your fit on the bike - to get to the aero bars will take some adjustment.
Yes, you get most of the benefits with a way lower cost. The geometry is different but you will save thousands of dollars.
My man really does not like 105
I know its poshy, but I cant ride without di2 on a tri bike. Living in a city makes it pretty dangerous not to have shifters on the bullhorns with the brakes.
What about Stradalli bike?
I also don't see the advantage of Ultegra over 105, small weight savings, less durability. Resale value? No clue. But one thing pops to mind, usually I don't even shift gears or brake during the long rides in training. Why? Triathlon (tt) cycling consists of (mostly) races on flat roads. If its hilly, then much cheaper and lighter road (-3kgs) bikes have an advantage. Currently I would love to own one, but its just not necessary, road bike w tri bars is enough for now.
Gah stop saying Shi-MAN-o! It's Shim-Ah-no! Jeez man
Great video. I'm just getting into triathlon but coming from cycling, so I have a decent road bike. I had been considering upgrading it next year, but now that I've gotten into triathlon, I may make a tri bike my next purchase. What depth of race wheels do you consider decent for a first bike (ie, above the bare minimum but not top end)?
Do you know if Liv bikes are good bikes for women? My fiance is looking for her first tri-bike but I don't want her to get duped by misleading marketing. They claim to be made for women but I'd assume all brands can claim that.
As a bike shop employee....105 is just fine and is excellent quality....taren is slowly but surely losing his credibility
I think you’ve missed how much comfort needs to be considered and that should be no1 on the list, you won’t want to ride it if you can’t get comfy and it’s got multiple adjustments! The giant trinity is probably better then all the ones you’ve mentioned for that!
Buy a 105 aluminium bike for about £1000 and take ya family on holiday. Unless ya getting paid to race, keep resisting loosing ya head up your own bottom.
The Speed Phreak from A2 bikes..
That's my choice.
I bought myself a used Specialized Transition with full Ultegra groupset last year for only €600 and it works great! Did a bike-fit and i´m sure, when i will sell it someday, i will get more than if it´s with a 105 groupset. So i stick with Taren. Go get Ultegra or even Dura-Ace and it will be much easier to resell!
that Argon e117 is 4800 now :( & Canyon speed max CF 7 $4,200
5800 series 105 is not great compared to Ultegra, but I would choose 105 R7000 over Ultegra R8000 for the money.
Upgrading on your own from 105 to Ultegra derailleurs is really not that much $$. So, you could always upgrade yourself later.
He second hand market is the way to go. I am ok with sloppy seconds.
I wouldn't recommend Ventum or Canyon for beginner as those are strictly direct to consumer sellers. I would only suggest something you can go to a store and out your hands on before purchase.
Are there any triathlon bikes under 2000?
Found the answer, used
what is your problem with 105? you're acting like it's trash compared to mechanical ultegra R8000 when the ONLY differences are weight and the price
105 shifts IDENTICAL
Been riding my B14 for 4 years. Little to no resale on it as nobody wants a bike that fits me at 6'7"! So not something I ever consider.
Trek speed concept... cheap and 1 of the fastest out there
dont get this - why should it be harder to get parts for one bike-brand from another. The only brand specific thing is the frame.... Everything else is standard, bearings, groupset, handlbars, brakes..
I’m enjoying the bike so far ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
Any chance could you review Quintana roo sr5 aero road bike. Your initial thoughts.
Cannondale Slice
You forgot A2. I'm sure Justin Lippert is fuming.
A2 SpeedPhreak yo
Complains about shimano 105's... Every bike mentioned has 105's...
if you think $3000 is a basic bike price point something is really wrong with you
In the picture of this video, you have a terrible position on the bike. The head is way to high
I will never sell my first tri bike :p
Killing me with the pronunciation of Shimano.
But we can't get canyon in Canada.. .
Should I really listen to anyone who can’t properly pronounce Shimano???
“CHEE-MAN-Oooo” *cringing
3000円なら喜んで買いますよ！お金持ちではないので
Under 3000 pal