Do not try to improve ... The tips in this video, the simplicity of maximum, minimum cost and optimizing the use of basic tools, has daily use, starting now ... Fantastic, thank you John ... !!!
John, best method I have seen on making the screw. I watched your nut video and can emphasize with you. There is a simple no cost solution. Make your nut out of reprocessed hdme. Make a little jig 3 sided jig With removable ends. Make the interior of the jig twice the diameter or your rod. Make 2 square ends to put in the ends of your jig. Drill these ends in the center to accept your rod. Now insert your screw into the jig. It will look like a little box with your rod through it. Clamp both square ends. Now process your hdpe while it is hot force it into the space surrounding your rod you must force it in using a little push stick so it completely encloses all the space in your jig, overfill the jig a little and then put a top on your jig with a clamp. Let it cool completely. The hope should contract a little during the cooling period and should come off easily. I would put the jig at the end of your rod to make removal easier.
When I was a boy, we used to cut threads like that with a pocket knife. If we wanted to show off, we'd do it blindfolded. In all seriousness, that's very clever. Job well done.
The most clever way to make it. That what I had in mind but I'll clearly take that shortcut instead of testing, mistake, testing, mistake, etc. Thanks a lot sir for sharing it.
Very interesting, basically what you had with the bit method was a mechanical high pass filter with a feed-back loop. The wooden peg follower method was a low pads with dampening. Very cool.
Good afternoon John My name is Augusto'm from Brazil want to congratulate him for the projects accompany most of your videos like you to build a homemade cnc cutting wood and manufacture of handicrafts Thank you
cool, thanks for sharing this. I really like seeing the first attempts. A lot of times something that won't work for this project will be great for something else, or like the spacing problem you encountered indicates a general issue that will pop up again so the more we learn about it the better we'll be able to find a workaround.
John I have a thought to improve it a little. Maybe take an existing piece of threaded rod 2-4" long and use it as a master "die". Mark center on the end of it and an unthreaded piece and use a two pin setup from the master into the blank. Pins made from nails would fit the bill. And use that "master" temporarily attached to the blank as a way to get it started. Might just make things easier and more repeatable and definitely much quicker. At least in my mind it does all of that! Hahaha but just a thought. LMK what you honk or if you have already thought of that or even tried it already.
Wouldn't it be possible to connect an existing thread to the end of your brand new dowel with something like a dovetail? The existing thread could then drive the dowel without having to play with tape.
Great video John, have also seen a method where they used a razor blade set on an angle that cut (score) the outside of the dowel just under 1/16 to start the thread off. They were able to angle the razor blade to adjust the pitch.
Considering starting the thread is very sensitive... what if you had a detachable lead-in that you could just screw into the end of your dowel? That way you could use that as a perfect template and not have to worry about easily screwing it up and creating waves.
Hmmm, the right hand thread worked so well, and relatively simply, is it possible that the left would have worked better by just changing the direction of feed (I.e. either left to right, or maybe the fence to the other side of the router bit, or some combination of both) ? My experience has been that when my router messes up a cut, it's either direction or depth of cut....
Darnley Bynoe You got it. The right hand one worked well because the dowel rotated toward the fence, pulling it up tight. The left hand one was being rolled away from the fence. Feed from the other direction would have done it.
Great video, in addition I was thinking you could attach your dowel to one that already has the threads you want and then use one already made as a guide.
Props. It isn't something I'd use often so it's great it's such a thrifty effective method. I may try to match acme threaded broom handles for perfect instant starter threads.
That's pretty cool john. I've often thought about a jig to do that but have never made an attempt. Maby someday. I've got way to many irons in the fire now
Great start. A downcutting bit should leave a cleaner thread although yours were fine after sanding. The pin method should work on LH threads if you start the dowel from the other side. Yes, backwards from how you normally feed a bit but not when cutting LH threads.
Very interesting approach. However, I understood that for wooden threads, the groove should be V shaped with a 90° angle at the root (not 60° as for steel). This presents the forces at an angle to the nut that prevents snapping off the wood at the root.
I would figure out a way to put the end of the dowel into a drill and make a jig for the drill so that the only way it will move is towards the router. no up and down and no side to side. Also, with the drill, you can control the rotation speed as precise as possible.
Once then you have a "perfect" right hand and left hand form for a diameter and TPI, how do we transfer that model to work pieces using our wood lathes? Better still a router table attachment or is that where you're going?
I like it... now just, how to make the matching threads in a block of wood to get it all functioning...... Can some kind of jig be made with the screw already created and by that get it so that is you change the distanse of the threads in this video the matching threads will also change ?
Wonderful work John. I would like to know if you had the correct angle in the first place with your guide dowel, would you need to do the initial free hand cut? What would happen if you used a wooden half nut for the guide? Thanks for sharing your great ideas.
You are always so creative and interesting to watch. Once you have the threads how do you use them? Isn't the hardest part of threads making the female nuts?
Do you any similar brilliant ideas for cutting female threads? Being able to cut left- and right-hand threads, both male and female would be ideal for making wood handscrews.
This is a joy to watch. Thanks for your example of enjoyable and intelligent woodwork. I wonder could you suggest the best timbers to use for this sort of fine machining?
I like watching the process of figuring it out, trial and error. Yes, you could buy a tap and die for $80, but it's much more fun to figure it out yourself.
Might you be able to eliminate the initial free hand cutting if you make the leading end pencil shaped? May need to play around with the angle of the pencil shape. Cut the pencil part off when finished.
That's the thing, once you have a good sample done, it can be used to cut more. It's getting that sample in the least complicated way that's difficult.
John Heisz , I think you would really enjoy a 3D printer. They are great for jigs and brackets. I have a Da Vinci 1.0, and it is super handy for things like you are trying. The wood sliding against the plastic would probably glide nice too.
Now that you have a thread, you can attach a hollow wood cylinder to the threaded dowel and cut threads on it using the previous threads on the dowel as a guide. Remove the threaded cylinder and attach it to a piece of plain dowel to provide a guide for cutting the first threads on it.
I haven't read I all the comments, maybe it's been suggested: instead of eyeballing the first thread, why not just cut the end on an angle the same as the thread pitch? Start the follower on the leading tip, and as you rotate, the follower will already have a guide? Then, just cut it off square.
Take a block of wood how ever thick you feel you need according to diameter. Bore a hole through it then cut a slot with a hand saw slip a scraper into that slot reach inside mark the scraper where it intersects the hole pull out the scraper and cut a tooth like rip saw tooth with a little bit of blade to follow into the notch made by the tooth. You now have the device you need to act like a lead screw to run your dowels. In essence you are replacing the v cutter one would use on the backside of the pitch setting box to your router table. So long as the feed into the table keeps it in line the scraper box will do all the feeding. You could also find something male of same pitch.
You put a lot of thinking into this one John.:) Do you have any special plans for using these wooden threads in a project, or just for the sake of doing it?
one of the biggest problems is that the dowels are in no way round, more egg shaped and need to be sanded round so they will feed easily. plus the sanding will make them smooth to rotate easier. I need to do this to make a double feed thread on a 4" dowel.
Glenn Worton - you might get better results with the left hand thread by feeding from the other side, so you're feeding against the rotation of the bit, not climb cutting -
Thanks keep it simple I love that sometime it is not that I don t want to the thing is i don t have to much space so I love that you think to simplify Thank you guys are somekind of idols to me thanks again
My initial idea would be to glue/screw an existing metal threaded rod onto the end of the dowel, and turn it with a fixed nut attached. The threaded rod should have same pitch.
could you have flipped the fence to th other side and fed the dowel from the other end of the table? You would also need to move the pin to the other side of the cutter.
The 1/4 inch tape will get you close.. But, there will be a slight error in the pitch... This can be visualized by putting the tape at a right angle to the axis, and then rotating it to the helix angle... The more you rotate, in relation to the axis of the shaft, the more it becomes apparent that the pitch will increase... If you're making the cooresponding female thread from this male thread it won't make any difference... And, if you have wide enough tolerances it won't make a differnce, either. Frank
Do not try to improve ... The tips in this video, the simplicity of maximum, minimum cost and optimizing the use of basic tools, has daily use, starting now ... Fantastic, thank you John ... !!!
Thanks for showing the various ways of improving the method. It saves us going through the same experimentation. Great video.
John, best method I have seen on making the screw. I watched your nut video and can emphasize with you. There is a simple no cost solution. Make your nut out of reprocessed hdme. Make a little jig 3 sided jig With removable ends. Make the interior of the jig twice the diameter or your rod. Make 2 square ends to put in the ends of your jig. Drill these ends in the center to accept your rod. Now insert your screw into the jig. It will look like a little box with your rod through it. Clamp both square ends. Now process your hdpe while it is hot force it into the space surrounding your rod you must force it in using a little push stick so it completely encloses all the space in your jig, overfill the jig a little and then put a top on your jig with a clamp. Let it cool completely. The hope should contract a little during the cooling period and should come off easily. I would put the jig at the end of your rod to make removal easier.
I understood no shit but it seems to make sense if I take the time to read it and visualize 4 times.
The music and editing on this one really tickled me. Fun to watch.
Do I see an all wood twin screw vice coming?
When I was a boy, we used to cut threads like that with a pocket knife. If we wanted to show off, we'd do it blindfolded. In all seriousness, that's very clever. Job well done.
The most clever way to make it. That what I had in mind but I'll clearly take that shortcut instead of testing, mistake, testing, mistake, etc.
Thanks a lot sir for sharing it.
Love it John. The ability to make treads has always been on my list. Thank you for helping us find ways to do it with tools we already have.
Very interesting, basically what you had with the bit method was a mechanical high pass filter with a feed-back loop. The wooden peg follower method was a low pads with dampening. Very cool.
Thanks John, great video. You are very creative. You have some of the best videos that help us less creative folks.
The idea of the paper strip is simply brilliant! Thank you for the clue, now I can start building my moxon press :-)
You are incredible creative. I love this old videos from you. I remember that was very inspirational for me to start and learn woodworking.
Good afternoon John
My name is Augusto'm from Brazil want to congratulate him for the projects accompany most of your videos like you to build a homemade cnc cutting wood and manufacture of handicrafts
Thank you
cool, thanks for sharing this. I really like seeing the first attempts. A lot of times something that won't work for this project will be great for something else, or like the spacing problem you encountered indicates a general issue that will pop up again so the more we learn about it the better we'll be able to find a workaround.
Didn't think I would like this video... But I did. Great music and video all around. Thanks.
Loved the music and your relaxed and honest presentation.
Who knew you could sing Opera. You are a man of many talents. Great video thanks.
That's really awesome John!! I see this opening up a number of shop built jigs :-)
great instructional video. Thanks for taking the time to share your work John.
John I have a thought to improve it a little. Maybe take an existing piece of threaded rod 2-4" long and use it as a master "die". Mark center on the end of it and an unthreaded piece and use a two pin setup from the master into the blank. Pins made from nails would fit the bill. And use that "master" temporarily attached to the blank as a way to get it started. Might just make things easier and more repeatable and definitely much quicker. At least in my mind it does all of that! Hahaha but just a thought. LMK what you honk or if you have already thought of that or even tried it already.
Great idea, I can't wait to see the project you come up with to use these in.
Wouldn't it be possible to connect an existing thread to the end of your brand new dowel with something like a dovetail? The existing thread could then drive the dowel without having to play with tape.
Great video John, have also seen a method where they used a razor blade set on an angle that cut (score) the outside of the dowel just under 1/16 to start the thread off. They were able to angle the razor blade to adjust the pitch.
Considering starting the thread is very sensitive... what if you had a detachable lead-in that you could just screw into the end of your dowel? That way you could use that as a perfect template and not have to worry about easily screwing it up and creating waves.
Love the simplicity of the jig!
I can see a cordless drill on slow speed turning that dowel. Would give a steady and consistent feed, i.e. no bending as you rotate it hand to hand.
MarkleZephire See Izzy Swan's version.
Hmmm, the right hand thread worked so well, and relatively simply, is it possible that the left would have worked better by just changing the direction of feed (I.e. either left to right, or maybe the fence to the other side of the router bit, or some combination of both) ? My experience has been that when my router messes up a cut, it's either direction or depth of cut....
Darnley Bynoe You got it. The right hand one worked well because the dowel rotated toward the fence, pulling it up tight. The left hand one was being rolled away from the fence. Feed from the other direction would have done it.
Wow, that was a crappy trick to advertise the ripp-off 16000 wood plans site :-(
Thanks for yet another interesting video, John.
Great video, in addition I was thinking you could attach your dowel to one that already has the threads you want and then use one already made as a guide.
John in 3:23, which this cutting wood turning, into the hole? Not get to see and Automatic translations are still confused ... Thanks.
Props. It isn't something I'd use often so it's great it's such a thrifty effective method. I may try to match acme threaded broom handles for perfect instant starter threads.
Thanks for this. I'm trying to make a worm gear and this has helped me figure it out.
That's pretty cool john. I've often thought about a jig to do that but have never made an attempt. Maby someday. I've got way to many irons in the fire now
Great start. A downcutting bit should leave a cleaner thread although yours were fine after sanding. The pin method should work on LH threads if you start the dowel from the other side. Yes, backwards from how you normally feed a bit but not when cutting LH threads.
I missed how you achieved the feed angle, but brilliant presentation, John
Somehow the opera really works with woodworking...interesting experiment.
Very interesting approach. However, I understood that for wooden threads, the groove should be V shaped with a 90° angle at the root (not 60° as for steel). This presents the forces at an angle to the nut that prevents snapping off the wood at the root.
I would figure out a way to put the end of the dowel into a drill and make a jig for the drill so that the only way it will move is towards the router. no up and down and no side to side. Also, with the drill, you can control the rotation speed as precise as possible.
Very impressive approach and finish! Good video. Thx
Once then you have a "perfect" right hand and left hand form for a diameter and TPI, how do we transfer that model to work pieces using our wood lathes? Better still a router table attachment or is that where you're going?
I like it... now just, how to make the matching threads in a block of wood to get it all functioning......
Can some kind of jig be made with the screw already created and by that get it so that is you change the distanse of the threads in this video the matching threads will also change ?
I love it. Sorry to ask the question, but what about nuts to match those beautiful threads?
Awesome sense of humor
Wonderful work John. I would like to know if you had the correct angle in the first place with your guide dowel, would you need to do the initial free hand cut? What would happen if you used a wooden half nut for the guide? Thanks for sharing your great ideas.
You are always so creative and interesting to watch. Once you have the threads how do you use them? Isn't the hardest part of threads making the female nuts?
I find this idea is smart. Bravo
Do you any similar brilliant ideas for cutting female threads? Being able to cut left- and right-hand threads, both male and female would be ideal for making wood handscrews.
Very clever method. Thumbs up!
This is a joy to watch. Thanks for your example of enjoyable and intelligent woodwork. I wonder could you suggest the best timbers to use for this sort of fine machining?
Loved the music! Felt like I was watching a Bugs Bunny cartoon. Great jig, thanks as always....
I like watching the process of figuring it out, trial and error. Yes, you could buy a tap and die for $80, but it's much more fun to figure it out yourself.
nice editing. very enjoyable to watch.
Might you be able to eliminate the initial free hand cutting if you make the leading end pencil shaped? May need to play around with the angle of the pencil shape. Cut the pencil part off when finished.
John that thread is all very nice but how do you make the Tap opposite female end?
Great idea John!
For production work, maybe you could attached a short piece of well-formed threaded dowel to the lead end of the blank to get the process started.
That's the thing, once you have a good sample done, it can be used to cut more. It's getting that sample in the least complicated way that's difficult.
John Heisz , I think you would really enjoy a 3D printer. They are great for jigs and brackets. I have a Da Vinci 1.0, and it is super handy for things like you are trying. The wood sliding against the plastic would probably glide nice too.
Now that you have a thread, you can attach a hollow wood cylinder to the threaded dowel and cut threads on it using the previous threads on the dowel as a guide. Remove the threaded cylinder and attach it to a piece of plain dowel to provide a guide for cutting the first threads on it.
I haven't read I all the comments, maybe it's been suggested: instead of eyeballing the first thread, why not just cut the end on an angle the same as the thread pitch? Start the follower on the leading tip, and as you rotate, the follower will already have a guide? Then, just cut it off square.
Take a block of wood how ever thick you feel you need according to diameter. Bore a hole through it then cut a slot with a hand saw slip a scraper into that slot reach inside mark the scraper where it intersects the hole pull out the scraper and cut a tooth like rip saw tooth with a little bit of blade to follow into the notch made by the tooth. You now have the device you need to act like a lead screw to run your dowels. In essence you are replacing the v cutter one would use on the backside of the pitch setting box to your router table. So long as the feed into the table keeps it in line the scraper box will do all the feeding. You could also find something male of same pitch.
What a wondefull video help.me a lot thank you From.Costa Rica Central America
Nice work and GREAT music!
gracias John por compartir tus conocimientos , son una inmensa ayuda .
You put a lot of thinking into this one John.:)
Do you have any special plans for using these wooden threads in a project, or just for the sake of doing it?
Thanks Roy. I have some projects in mind, but I do like doing things just for the sake of doing them.
I want one of my own now - love the concept.
This is very well thought out, great work!
one of the biggest problems is that the dowels are in no way round, more egg shaped and need to be sanded round so they will feed easily. plus the sanding will make them smooth to rotate easier.
I need to do this to make a double feed thread on a 4" dowel.
Great job John, Thanks for sharing. Regards Harry
That makes it look so easy. Thanks
Glenn Worton - you might get better results with the left hand thread by feeding from the other side, so you're feeding against the rotation of the bit, not climb cutting -
you are only using table saw in treading the wood. Sir?
Nice John, did you have to alter your router bits shape any? And what router bit did you choose to do this process?
Just a quick question. What was the router bit you used?
I found this video very relaxing...
A motor diver to switch rotation and a left cutter'? overengineer I now I now...
Cheers mate!
would it be easier if you used a drill to turn the dowel?
hello, nice vid !
why not using a step by step motor to turn the wood piece ?
step by step motors are very accurate
Your brain is pretty amazing and so is the music in this vid!
Hey John, I really want to build a workbench, but I don't have a workbench to build it on...any suggestions? (Be nice!) ;] I really enjoy your videos.
Thanks keep it simple I love that sometime it is not that I don t want to the thing is i don t have to much space so I love that you think to simplify Thank you guys are somekind of idols to me thanks again
On the next video you could try ptfe tape to stop the epoxy sticking to the rod.
great stuff as usual - waiting for nut...thanks dude
My initial idea would be to glue/screw an existing metal threaded rod onto the end of the dowel, and turn it with a fixed nut attached. The threaded rod should have same pitch.
Did you Photoshop the threads on there? ;)
It's kinda screwy..but I love your cutting edge ideas and experiments.Thanks John.
You've cut Acme threads. Why did you not use a 60 degree bit?
Belos vídeos meu amigo. Saudações de José Bonifácio, São Paulo, Brasil
now how the heck do you make the nut for the tread?
John you did well great set up
have you got a lathe :-) if not well worth having in the shop!
All the best Robbie
Great thinking, love the video, nice music too
Nice video , keep up the great work. Why not have two guides, or take a long nut and cut in half. I think it would give you better support.
could you have flipped the fence to th other side and fed the dowel from the other end of the table? You would also need to move the pin to the other side of the cutter.
The 1/4 inch tape will get you close.. But, there will be a slight error in the pitch... This can be visualized by putting the tape at a right angle to the axis, and then rotating it to the helix angle... The more you rotate, in relation to the axis of the shaft, the more it becomes apparent that the pitch will increase... If you're making the cooresponding female thread from this male thread it won't make any difference... And, if you have wide enough tolerances it won't make a differnce, either.
Frank
Hello.You can provide drawings of your invention?
Great video John, but I've got kind of the same thought as Jay.
Dam, I was hoping you were going to make it with a hacksaw ;) gotta get me a router. Great Video.
Nice way to cut threads now how about the nuts for the bolts?
I did one already, there's a video. I have a few more ideas to make a nut, and I show that soon.
Great John Thanks
notable y excelente lo voy a practicar. gracias
Very interesting maybe that's how threads were done many many years ago
I wonder if a good solution might be to use two three or four pins instead of just one
Nice job!