Great advice Ronny. Your experience has convinced me to beef-up my kit contents and to inspect and re-torque my wheel lug nuts anytime they've been removed. Good lesson. 👍
This is a top video Ronny. I love that you turned this into something that everyone could learn from. Thank you for sharing the experience mate. It's always good to be able to learn from others, to prevent you from making the same mistakes, and this - and a lot of your content - gives us all exactly that opportunity. Cheers mate.
I recently had my wheels aligned at a local garage and it was only 7 days later when I was cleaning the wheels that I noticed that rooughly 75% of the nuts were loose. Many of them were so loose that I could take them off by hand! Fortunately, in the 7 days I'd had the car since the alignment, I'd only been travelling around Perth! Very lucky I reckon!
Great to see you cover everyday misadventures along with those epic adventures. Grounded and real. Everyone can learn from watching and listing to others problem solve. Cheers and glad there wasn't any injuries.
Always good idea to invest in a torque wrench and know what your wheel nuts torque settings are.Big breaker bar is good but could be stretching studs to much
I've learnt my lesson over the years from shoddy work from tyre shops or mechanics. Whenever I have any work done to my car that involves removing the wheels I visually inspect their work at their shop before I leave and double check their work again for torque when I get home. I've had everything from loose wheel nuts, overtightened wheel nuts to missing wheel nuts and sometimes all of the above. It's a f***g scary world out here folks, always take a minute to check something as important as your wheels whenever you have any work done to them👍 A very important story to share with your subscribers Ronny👍
It does matter! I have torqued junk alloy wheels before and had them flex and come off. I use only quality steel. Lets look at it this way. He has never lost a wheel before in many years of wheeling and his truck was heavier. Suddenly after swapping to alloy this happens. Strange.
I've never had a problem with tons of sets of Toyota alloy wheels. Aftermarket, who knows. The thing is, usually you hear and feel them coming loose before they fall off.
Spent 30 years in the 4x4 industry and a lifetime four wheel driving Ronny you are spot on alloy wheels just create problems Steel wheels are way more reliable And no rattle guns Cheers
Tough luck mate another idea is especially on trailers we mount the spare on a stub axle with bearings and everything that way you have a whole spare hub assembly
With a trailer that may make sense, because there are only a limited number of total components required for the trailer to roll. It may well be possible to carry, on the trailer a full replacement loaded hub with brake. For a truck though, there are considerably more total components required to make it drive. You can't carry everything. You have to pick and choose. If your vehicle as a platform has known weaknesses then you'll probably carry those parts, and depending on your prior experiences you might carry some other parts, but you simply cannot carry everything. It just isn't possible.
G'day Ronny great content mate. I drive a 78 and purchased steel wheels about 2 years ago. The trouble I had was the run out of the rims I purchased was massive, what I mean is that the rims weren't spinning true and created a vibration at about 80km an hour. Most of the steel wheels are pressed and welded overseas and a cheap item. Bob Jane helped us with the issue and sorted through about 20 rims that were not up to spec. I think you will find alloy run perfect as they are generally a machined finish. I still run steel rims but was looking forward to buying alloy rims next time because of this issue with steelies. My rims now have lots of weights because of the imperfections in the rim. If u purchase steel rims make sure you get them to spin them on the balancer for runout before you buy. I swapped out bushes and all sorts trying to find the issue. Months later we worked it out by running alloy rims and the issue was gone.
I’m always a bit paranoid about wheel nuts so before every trip I would check them, and after a hard day on the tracks I’d double check too before setting off again. Because, if there is a heat issue somewhere, lug nuts can come loose due to expansion/contraction. I used the have this regularly in my track car where you could put a lot of heat into the wheel area. I do carry spare wheel nuts. But not wheels studs. Time to add some to the spares kit. Thanks for sharing and we can all learn from this one. 👍
Lucky, thanks for the lesson. I recently had to replace a wheel stud on my wife's Subaru. An easy job made much easier by finding a big nut left over from the front end of my Jeep that just happened to fit the Subaru studs enabling me to seat the studs. Carrying spare studs is a great idea. Including a nut that fits the studs and allows the stud to pass through would be a good idea.
Mate, add a set of parrallel pin punches to your tool kit. relatively cheap, light and useful when changing wheel studs, wheel bearings and a heap of other track side repairs. Love your content, been watching for years,
This happened to me 9-10 years ago. Same as you, alloy wheels and the car had just been serviced and tyres rotated. Lucky for me I limped into a country service station where the local mechanic spotted my wheel had only 1 nut holding it on. Since then I make a point of checking my wheel nuts on a regular basis.
Another reason to love steelies, I was rally driving some very rough roads near Oberon, numerous bent rims (easily hammered back into shape, and cheaply replaced) --no suspension damage! Thanks Ronny :)
Scary stuff, mate! Glad you're okay. I've had a close call with wheel nuts coming off but never a complete wheel. It's a good lesson and reminder to always check wheel nuts after anyone else has worked on your vehicle.
my friend lost a wheel once from his small car, with it full of things, as he was moving his sister to another place :D It was his mistake one wheel had bolts finger tight only... somehow forgot to do full go around after switching to summer tires. The wheel missed everything when cars stopped at the red light and neatly stopped on the grass between the roads :)
You, me, and Eva ZuBeck all had our left rear come loose in like the same week. Mine sheered 4 studs also. I was going 80mph when it happened. I got to the side of the road fine. My tire didn’t hit anyone so all is well.
Glad all were safe!! Way to make lemonade out of lemons...and hopefully prevent someone from having this happen to them! I worked in the Commercial Tire industry for 25+ years and I would always tell my crew; "I don't care how many techs mount/balance the tires or bolt them to the vehicle...chose ONE PERSON to torque ALL the lug nuts for that vehicle and one to ask for confirmation of task completed.
That was a lucky escape. I know the stretch of road reasonably well, and it is fast (especially since it was upgraded to a dual carriageway.). You were lucky being close to Colac as well, otherwise there would have been a long drive holding up traffic either on to Warrnambool or back to Geelong for parts.
Hi Ronny , after my 30 years experience l never drive from mechanic without checking the nuts wheels by myself. A lot of mechanics use gung. But after checking it’s to strong or too weak , newer perfect. CHEERS !
Hi Ronny I had the same experience on Fraser Island years ago when I had a GQ patrol. The offender was me. I failed to tighten the wheel nuts and and properly seat the rim on the housing before putting it back on the ground. I was lucky like you I had spares. Got extras at Rainbow Beach. Learnt a very valuable lesson. I have never used mag wheels on a trip, always steel rims. Had experience with buckled rims etc and roadworthiness. Steel rims cant go wrong. I have 200 series GX and have kept the standard steel rims. Thanks for sharing your experience. Bravo from Victoria Australia
If your a driver in the Army, local council or even corporates in the field, a daily routine check over the vehicle is undertaken and documented. I call it a sanity check!
All wheel studs no matter the make or model of vehicle are torque to yield specific and as an old school 4x4er with a Landcruiser to match I’ve never used anything except steel rims . Well recovered Ronny 😎👍🍻
Toyota (page 210 service manual) recommends 209Nm torque setting for steel wheels and 131Nm for alloy... I just checked then after watching your vid coz to be honest, didn't realise for steel it was a whopping 209Nm... glad you got yourself sorted out, a very precarious situation!
131NM are for Toyota alloys wheels they have a specific loose washer nut and the Toyota wheels have a matching seat. The alloys he runs are just tapered
@@dominichyde788 well the manual doesn’t really know what NM Ronny should be running there specs are for the factory alloy nuts and seats, these aftermarket ones are totally different
After a close call breaking three of the six lugs on one tire, I started carrying a full set of font and rear lugs with spare nuts as well. fast forward a few years and i almost loose another one after forgetting to double check the lug nuts after changing a over my wheels. Lucky I had the spares as I was able to get back on the road again instead of going home on a flat bed. Literary a carbon copy of Ronny's experience other than dropping the wheel. Three things it taught me was carry spares, always, always check the lug nuts with a torque wrench and don't trust anyone always check it your self
Hey mate after what's you have done with wheel studs I would change them to get press in because to get the studs flush with base might of stretched them a bit to far bud... keep it safe!!!!
I'm sure all service manuals say wheel nuts should be re checked x amount of kms after a wheel has been fitted. I know the time I didn't recheck them one started to come loose. Lucky for me I heard a clunking noise and checked.
Hello Ronny I know the situation. I had the same problem with a Nissan Patrol Y61 a few years ago. The biggest problem with Nissan / Toyota are the soft wheel bolts. My solution: I bought 30 mm wheel spacers with wheel bolts in 10G. strength. The WRC drivers use this on their rally cars. they are OK for up to 180 Nm. And open wheel nuts, so I can see if the nuts are properly seated on the wheel bolts.. I Change the wheels 20 times, on the spacers, NO problems with the studs..... Greetings from Germany Andy....
You need NutWare wheel nut indicators, I lost a wheel on my camper trailer last year because I didn't tighten the wheel nuts up after regreasing the bearings and have been using NutWare indicators ever since.
Great episode Ronny:D Ive been running Pro Comp steel wheels for 10 years, dont think you can get them in Aus anymore and they are brilliant. Lucky break fella
About 20 years ago I was towing a box trailer from WA to NSW when I saw a wheel pass me thinking someone has lost one and it was me the hub had separated from the axle fortunately the trailer stayed upright till I stopped.
The answer to the lost wheel problem is : when you change wheels particularly steel to alloy BRUSH THE DIRT/DUST OFF THE STUD AREA HUB FACES. Steel wheels generally have a concentric rib around the stud radius and this can fill with dirt and the wheel will tolerate it. Alloy wheels have a flat machined face that cannot tolerate any dirt or surface irregularities . You can tighten the stud on an alloy up to spec and it will hold perfectly on a clean face , but if there is any sand grit or mud on that face it will work it's way out from the stud face and the wheel will then work loose . I have seen it happen about 3 times and had a wheel come loose on my own 4x which is where I discovered the cause. Hope this helps.
@@Robert-cu9bm I think using spare lugs you carry with you is a hell of a lot easier than removing the other three tires to rob their studs to make it home.
@@kingduckford Obviously, it's also a lot easier to not have your wheel fall off.... That's why I said in an emergency as not everyone is carrying spares.
Hi Ronny. Glad you are ok. That happened to our brand new Subaru second service. They rotate wheels and did not tighten all the wheels. Wife pulled in with noise I checked all nuts loose and five missing driving home. Not good. Regards John
had the problem over the years on my bush taxis an troopys .it's the heat transfer between the steel hub an alloy rim easier to explain over the phone but that's wat the main problem is an with the older 6stud combine the steel hub with the alloy rims an stretched wheel studs its worce than the 5stud due to 5stud thicker studs less susceptible to stretching .unless over tightened to the point of snapping like a carot .love the content .
You said it Ronny steel is the way to go for true off roading.Have had steels since the early 1980's.Every out back 'Cocky' ran them so that was good enough for me.
Last time my wheels flew off was visiting a shop that worked on my wheels, over tightening using impact guns. Even at a good shop technicians come and go. They chip the paint off my Brembo brake calipers, drastically mismatched tire pressures, wrong toque on lugs etc. Till this day I bring my wheels to any shops off, torque the lugs and check the tire pressure myself
When it comes to mechanics tightening up wheel nuts with impact wrenches, I never trust where they’ve torqued them to. Once home I always lift the car up & loosen then re-torque any wheel nuts they’ve touched, back up to 110-113nm on my Toyota 4wd. Only ever had alloy rims on my 4wds for years & travelled all over. I’ve also greased my studs for around a decade too (again with no problems whatsoever). Just got to make sure the wheel nuts are tightened to spec or very close to, and triple make sure they’re all done up to the same spec per wheel. Takes an extra minute per wheel for piece of mind.
Here in Germany we are required to have a warning triangle in the car all the time. Is there no such law in Australia? If you have an accident you're supposed to walk 100 meters away from your car and stand the reflective trinagle on the side of the road so, the arriving traffic would notice you way before it arrives you.
I agree, the described situation is the perfect case where a warning triangle is necessary. Walk to the other side of the bend and install it, so other drivers know a surprise wait for them after the turn.
My old patrol had steel rims, sunrasia tupe, it came with them. However my Dmax came standard with alloys. I have heard of the same problem you had so i installed witness indicators to the wheel nuts, easy to see if there is any movement.
Hey Ronny, I got a photo with ya at perth 4wd show, cheers for that dude. Meant to ask, when are you bringing back the All Aussie Adventures hand shake Easter eggs?!
Over torquing lugs crystalizes the stud metal making it brittle. Had the same thing happen going from moab to the north rim on a jeep. Mechanic @ home said there was a service bulletin about it. Torque wrench every time i change a wheel. I also carry 5 spare studs now. Loose lugs tend to just spin off.
Very interesting and helpful advice. Everytime I got new tyres fitted they tell me to check wheel nuts after 50km. Some trucks have those arrows fitted to see if they move. Not sure if that's practical for 4wd's.
Thanks for the lesson , no matter what wheel rims ones have if they not fastened properly it will fall off . Living in south africa we find that bad roads with potholes and corrugated surface loosen wheel studs , greetings mate from south africa 🇿🇦 👍
Toque setting on a prado 120 is so important, I have had new tyres replaced a couple of times and then had warped brake rotors soon after. Because the wheels nuts had been over torqued causing the rotors to warp. Now always back off the nuts and set then to 95 ftlbs. When i go 4x4ing or long trips always take torque wrench and check the settings. Saves me the cost of new front rotors.
Bit similar thing happened to me. But act before I die in the outback. Changed my Prado 120 front lower control arms from very well know suspension chain store before my Birdsville and out back trip a 2x months ago. One week later went to my regular mechanic for last minute checkup (always do this before a big trip) Ended up finding suspension man did not tightened lower bolts on both front front shockies (only hand tightened) Key points. - check every part before leave - tight all nuts and bolts - make sure to mark nut/ bolt with permanent ink marker ( easy for visual inspection on the road) - check your marks every morning at least - take spares Rooma
Invest in a torque wrench Ronny, 131Nm for alloys and 209Nm for steelies, Also due to the conditions+Km youve done look at replacing your studs every 120Thou Km.
Hay Ronny I use a paint pen on the wheel nuts after you torque them up. All he lines on the nuts are painted in the same direction. That way you can see instantly if one is loose.
Some time whatever you do a wheel will fall off, I had a stub axle break off on a trailer, also a steel rim split in two so the center was left on the hub but the rest went off on its own.
Remember too wheel studs like any stud/bolt only has a certain life span. Only can torque/stretch them so many times before they give up aswell. Good video yet again Rhonny
Do those after market alloys have a pressed in steel insert with a taper that matches the nuts? Should stay tight if the stud is clean and tightened correctly.
If alloys are slightly crooked or there is dirt on the face. Doesn't matter how tight you do them, that eventually moves and allows the nut too be loose.
@@Robert-cu9bm obviously you have to wipe the faces before lifting the wheel on. I think the issue is that aftermarket alloys often don't have the quality. They must have a steel insert.
Yeah it happens with alloy rims. Happened to me in a dmax but Isuzu roadside assist was excellent. Never had a lose wheel nut since with steel sunraysia rims.
Not unheard of on cruisers Main causes, incorrect torque or debris between hub and rim Also the factory alloy nut and seats ( loose washer ) are far superior to the tapered ones Nothing wrong with alloy wheels for 4wds you just need to get the right ones, we had some walker evans made for our 79 specifically requested the lug seat to suit the factory 79 alloys nuts worked a treat
We had the front right come off on the 90 when the LBJ collapsed. This is apparently a 'thing' with the 90 series. At least roadside assist sorted us out and everything was sorted bcoz a mechanic was responsible for not fixing the LBJ so they had to pay what insurance didn't cover. It took THREE MONTHS to get fixed though.
Very, very lucky! A friend of mine had the same thing happen to him on his 79 series, towing a camper trailer. Back wheel came off, The whole car and trailer rolled 3 times from 80kph before stopping. Everything totalled, miraculously, none of the 4 people in the cruiser got seriously hurt. Insurance paid up but the trip to the cape never happened.
Was driving with my old man when one wheel came of. It was a twin axel. Crowded hill in Dublin so lucky nobody was injured. You have to remove any stones between the dual wheel's straight away.
Stuff like this is why I do as much mechanical repairs myself at home as I live on farm land and have experience in mechanical repairs and I always double check stuff and regularly check basic things weekly like wheel nuts, oil level, coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid and brake pad life, slide pins, caliper pistons, rubber piston seals ect...
Interesting episode, a front wheel comming off could have sent you into oncoming traffic with very different results Had this happen on my boat trailer, lucky I had steel rims and detected the wobble Wheel nut indicators are my next port of call
I have alloys and after new shockers (Pedders) were put on they forgot to tighten the rear wheel nuts. I felt and heard the problem, stopped and tightened them. Alloys gave me plenty of warning on my Ranger. The holes were not even enlarged.
Sorry to hear. Glad that nobody was harmed. But, I have a torque wrench, I always check my wheelnuts after a wheel rotation or before/after a big trip. They are not overly expensive, guess 150 AUD. So, save yourself and your car from more expensive afermaths.
Happened to me in my 79 cruiser towing 22ft caravan ,cruiser was starting to wander put it down to shit roads slowed down from 100kms ph turned left turned right into small town left hand rear wheel came off , alloy wheels , my fault for not checking wheel nuts after new tyres fitted , had to use caravan jack aswell ,also one of my alloy rims had a crack in it slow leak , gunna stick to the alloys lot lighter and looks great Love your show Cheers
Well done fixing the vehicle, roadside, in the dark, with what you had on board! What a scary spot to stop too. Lucky it was the passenger side and you weren’t under the truck in the middle of the road with traffic skidding up to you! I’m not surprised at the insurance company. Happy to take our money, but when you need their help they make you work for it.
You left out another possible cause which is fatigue from overloading and operating beyond the vehicles design parameters. It’d be interesting to crack test some of the remaining studs and see if they’re fatigued.
I wouldn't be surprised, considering how the aussies seem to load their rigs. My profile pic is my truck, a 2010 Ford Ranger 4.0l 4x4 5spd. My full "build" is 33s, 2inch lift, 4.56 gears, rear lunch box locker, front bumper and winch, RTT, cooler, stove, a couple camping bins, some tools, aftermarket radio and sub, some lights, 25L of fuel and then some other spare fluids, then a dirt bike on a hitch rack. I've guessed at the weight on the camping gear and factored in the weight of everything else roughly. I'll be 100-150lbs under gross weight. I could add sliders and rear bumpers and a hi lift and more stuff if I wanted to but my goal is to keep it under the 5150 lb gross weight.
we get 1 79 a month with snapped studs at work, wheels are torque wrench tightened, all stock steel wheels, its just a toyota thing, studs are made of chinesium maybe, nothing what so ever to do with tyre size and loading
If he was within GVWR and has not ever really exceeded it then I don't think that would be a factor. Remember, this platform's existence is ostensibly as a commercial vehicle for that market, where it's expected to be loaded. This isn't some consumer-grade "lifestyle" truck designed to appeal to people that don't want to put anything into the bed because they'd scratch it.
I think you all need to rewatch the video. You missed the points.
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Had similar problem recently, my mechanic didn't torque the CV bolts on rear axle. After some time started loosing bolts and snapped the remaining two in the middle of a busy street - suddenly had a front wheel drive car. 😀 Took almost an hour to put that back together with the few tools I got in the car. Lessons come unexpectedly some time.
City discount used an impact gun to tighten the wheel nuts and not a torque wrench and on the front right the pajero is suppose to have 6 nuts but they only tightened 5 and there was one missing😢
In UK mate 👍 we have some item witch is oval shaped but one side goes to a point ,put all the points facing one way so you can visually see if they've come undone mate 👍 hoo roo ,on steel wheels not alloys 👍
That's a truck thing. Also nissan done a service recall for their Ti patrols with the alloy wheels, and that was their fix. PS: left front on Patrols have a nasty habit of coming loose if you're running alloys. Everyone I know with a patrol and alloys have had their left front come off. I had it multiple times.
In the UK, with commercial vehicles; if they have had work done on the wheels such as a wheel change then they should be checked for tightness after 100km. We have tags left in the trucks on the dashboard with the notes and they are bright colours. The depot has a maintenance section where we can either go and grab the torque tool ourselves or one of the maintenance guys will show us how to do it, or do it themselves. But it sounds like the recovery company didn't like you either. Ive had problems with my 4x4 in the past and have opted to call a local recovery company directly.
I had the same happen to my landcruiser Ute about 2 years ago. Same rear left wheel. But I hadn’t had my car serviced recently or the wheels off in the preceding 4-5 months. Was a bit of excitement !
Hi Ronny I have a 2000 79 series towing a 3 ton caravan right hand 75 kpa corner left hand rear flu off into the scrub same I aways check the nuts CSA mags the mags went to recyclers I now have mine spec kings steel wheels On the inside of the CSA Mag 960 Kg On the Kings 1896 Kg have not had a wheel come lose yet Ps I have heard that its common with 79 series with mags to lose the Left Hand Rear
We did a half lap recently and I checked all wheel nuts at the end of each driving day for exactly this reason. It didn’t matter if it was a 100km or 1000km drive. I do t have the skills to do the repairs Ronnie did so prevention is the key for us.
Had similar happen in company Hilux 150km north of Kalgoorlie on Yarri rd. At 100km/hr was one hell of a ride till I got it stopped. Caught a glimpse of the rear wheel going past as we were going sideways down the gravel rd. At least with the gravel/dirt surface the physical damage was not too great. The biggest issue was trying to unfold the backing plate where the impact with the road folded it in.Couldn't get the brake drum on at first. Used to be a boilermaker many years ago so had some tricks up my sleeve. Found the brake drum and 3 studs, swapped nuts and one stud from other wheels and stuck one of the spare tyres on. Hunted for a hour or so, never did find that bloody wheel, still out there somewhere. Limped into Kalgoorlie 6 hours after leaving Edjudina. Took some time and effort to find a set of studs for that particular model of Hilux. Shoved them in, replaced old studs, and headed back to Perth. Bloody alloy wheels, didn't feel a thing until it about 3 seconds before it took of. Had nuts come loose of my landcruiser steel rims. Could feel and hear a clunk as I swayed it from side to side. More than enough warning if aware of the signs. Stopped, tightened the loose wheel nuts and carried on
I always torque my nuts up to 130nm never had an issue, I only started doing that after I snapped a stud by over tightening which was a nightmare to replace. I will get myself some spare studs after seeing this. Glad no-one was hurt and it wasn’t too bad a fix
I had a case on a battlefield when the tire was hit by a shrapnel and was flat. However, I could not stop there since it was a dangerous area. My good old 2003 Mitsubishi l200 made 7km driving just 3 wheels, basically driving on the rim. The tire came off and rim decreased it’s diameter twice. After that I stopped in safe area, just changed spare wheel and came to the base.
I keep an Estwing shingle hatchet in my jeep. Good as a hammer and can use for chopping. I did this as one of your recommendation of multi use tools and less weight by carrying two tools
The rear left fell off my 79 but I think it was sabotage. I was camping at a caravan park and woke up at 3 am to see someone walking away from my car. Left camp that morning and got about 2 km than my alloy wheel fell off about 200m from the highway. 1 stud snapped and 4 missing wheel nuts. I jacked it up and took one wheel nut off every wheel and luckily found the broken stud and wheel nut on the road which mad 4 each wheel. I drove back to the caravan park and found 4 of the 5 wheel nuts all in one little spot about 200m from where I camped. I drove 2km on 1 wheel nut and couldn’t feel a thing. Luckily it broke just before the highway.
One uses alloy wheels to reduce the unsprung weight. The reason why other 4wheelers stick with steel rims is you can knock out dents with a hammer where alloy wheels don't allow that. On a side note, why didn't you check your wheel nuts during the trip?? Like after you aired up coming off the trail??
Ofcorse a longer bore of a ally rim will have a better purchase. My question is why didn't you check them before U left the mechanic, as I always put on "re check after 50km" tags. On the steering wheel. And pre starts every morning on your trip?
Great advice Ronny. Your experience has convinced me to beef-up my kit contents and to inspect and re-torque my wheel lug nuts anytime they've been removed. Good lesson. 👍
This is a top video Ronny. I love that you turned this into something that everyone could learn from. Thank you for sharing the experience mate. It's always good to be able to learn from others, to prevent you from making the same mistakes, and this - and a lot of your content - gives us all exactly that opportunity. Cheers mate.
I recently had my wheels aligned at a local garage and it was only 7 days later when I was cleaning the wheels that I noticed that rooughly 75% of the nuts were loose. Many of them were so loose that I could take them off by hand! Fortunately, in the 7 days I'd had the car since the alignment, I'd only been travelling around Perth! Very lucky I reckon!
Great to see you cover everyday misadventures along with those epic adventures. Grounded and real. Everyone can learn from watching and listing to others problem solve. Cheers and glad there wasn't any injuries.
🔝🔝🔝🔝🤝 badhaee ho aapako chuna gaya hai apane puraskaar ka daava karane ke lie ab aap mere chune hue vijetaon mein se hain
Always good idea to invest in a torque wrench and know what your wheel nuts torque settings are.Big breaker bar is good but could be stretching studs to much
I've learnt my lesson over the years from shoddy work from tyre shops or mechanics.
Whenever I have any work done to my car that involves removing the wheels I visually inspect their work at their shop before I leave and double check their work again for torque when I get home.
I've had everything from loose wheel nuts, overtightened wheel nuts to missing wheel nuts and sometimes all of the above. It's a f***g scary world out here folks, always take a minute to check something as important as your wheels whenever you have any work done to them👍
A very important story to share with your subscribers Ronny👍
It doesn’t matter what type of wheel you have steel or alloy, if you don’t tighten your wheel nuts enough the will FALL OFF.
Torque them correctly
It does matter! I have torqued junk alloy wheels before and had them flex and come off. I use only quality steel. Lets look at it this way. He has never lost a wheel before in many years of wheeling and his truck was heavier. Suddenly after swapping to alloy this happens. Strange.
I've never had a problem with tons of sets of Toyota alloy wheels. Aftermarket, who knows. The thing is, usually you hear and feel them coming loose before they fall off.
Maybe adding wheel nut indicators like they use in the mines could be worth considering Ronny.
Aftermarket wheel nuts are 💩
Spent 30 years in the 4x4 industry and a lifetime four wheel driving
Ronny you are spot on alloy wheels just create problems
Steel wheels are way more reliable
And no rattle guns
Cheers
Tough luck mate another idea is especially on trailers we mount the spare on a stub axle with bearings and everything that way you have a whole spare hub assembly
With a trailer that may make sense, because there are only a limited number of total components required for the trailer to roll. It may well be possible to carry, on the trailer a full replacement loaded hub with brake.
For a truck though, there are considerably more total components required to make it drive. You can't carry everything. You have to pick and choose. If your vehicle as a platform has known weaknesses then you'll probably carry those parts, and depending on your prior experiences you might carry some other parts, but you simply cannot carry everything. It just isn't possible.
G'day Ronny great content mate. I drive a 78 and purchased steel wheels about 2 years ago. The trouble I had was the run out of the rims I purchased was massive, what I mean is that the rims weren't spinning true and created a vibration at about 80km an hour. Most of the steel wheels are pressed and welded overseas and a cheap item. Bob Jane helped us with the issue and sorted through about 20 rims that were not up to spec. I think you will find alloy run perfect as they are generally a machined finish. I still run steel rims but was looking forward to buying alloy rims next time because of this issue with steelies. My rims now have lots of weights because of the imperfections in the rim. If u purchase steel rims make sure you get them to spin them on the balancer for runout before you buy. I swapped out bushes and all sorts trying to find the issue. Months later we worked it out by running alloy rims and the issue was gone.
Feels like it gets more and more difficult find high quality steel rims.
I’m always a bit paranoid about wheel nuts so before every trip I would check them, and after a hard day on the tracks I’d double check too before setting off again. Because, if there is a heat issue somewhere, lug nuts can come loose due to expansion/contraction. I used the have this regularly in my track car where you could put a lot of heat into the wheel area. I do carry spare wheel nuts. But not wheels studs. Time to add some to the spares kit. Thanks for sharing and we can all learn from this one. 👍
Spare nuts on spare studs are cheap insurance.
Check, double check, triple check….🙈 Great lesson learned video Ronny👍
Lucky, thanks for the lesson. I recently had to replace a wheel stud on my wife's Subaru. An easy job made much easier by finding a big nut left over from the front end of my Jeep that just happened to fit the Subaru studs enabling me to seat the studs. Carrying spare studs is a great idea. Including a nut that fits the studs and allows the stud to pass through would be a good idea.
Mate, add a set of parrallel pin punches to your tool kit. relatively cheap, light and useful when changing wheel studs, wheel bearings and a heap of other track side repairs. Love your content, been watching for years,
This happened to me 9-10 years ago. Same as you, alloy wheels and the car had just been serviced and tyres rotated. Lucky for me I limped into a country service station where the local mechanic spotted my wheel had only 1 nut holding it on. Since then I make a point of checking my wheel nuts on a regular basis.
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I’m glad you are ok!
Another reason to love steelies, I was rally driving some very rough roads near Oberon, numerous bent rims (easily hammered back into shape, and cheaply replaced) --no suspension damage!
Thanks Ronny :)
Listing the tools you used for the fix is a great addition to the video.
Scary stuff, mate! Glad you're okay.
I've had a close call with wheel nuts coming off but never a complete wheel.
It's a good lesson and reminder to always check wheel nuts after anyone else has worked on your vehicle.
my friend lost a wheel once from his small car, with it full of things, as he was moving his sister to another place :D It was his mistake one wheel had bolts finger tight only... somehow forgot to do full go around after switching to summer tires. The wheel missed everything when cars stopped at the red light and neatly stopped on the grass between the roads :)
You, me, and Eva ZuBeck all had our left rear come loose in like the same week. Mine sheered 4 studs also. I was going 80mph when it happened. I got to the side of the road fine. My tire didn’t hit anyone so all is well.
Glad all were safe!! Way to make lemonade out of lemons...and hopefully prevent someone from having this happen to them! I worked in the Commercial Tire industry for 25+ years and I would always tell my crew; "I don't care how many techs mount/balance the tires or bolt them to the vehicle...chose ONE PERSON to torque ALL the lug nuts for that vehicle and one to ask for confirmation of task completed.
That was a lucky escape. I know the stretch of road reasonably well, and it is fast (especially since it was upgraded to a dual carriageway.). You were lucky being close to Colac as well, otherwise there would have been a long drive holding up traffic either on to Warrnambool or back to Geelong for parts.
Hi Ronny , after my 30 years experience l never drive from mechanic without checking the nuts wheels by myself. A lot
of mechanics use gung. But after checking it’s to strong or too weak , newer perfect. CHEERS !
Hi Ronny I had the same experience on Fraser Island years ago when I had a GQ patrol. The offender was me. I failed to tighten the wheel nuts and and properly seat the rim on the housing before putting it back on the ground. I was lucky like you I had spares. Got extras at Rainbow Beach. Learnt a very valuable lesson. I have never used mag wheels on a trip, always steel rims. Had experience with buckled rims etc and roadworthiness. Steel rims cant go wrong. I have 200 series GX and have kept the standard steel rims. Thanks for sharing your experience. Bravo from Victoria Australia
If your a driver in the Army, local council or even corporates in the field, a daily routine check over the vehicle is undertaken and documented. I call it a sanity check!
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All wheel studs no matter the make or model of vehicle are torque to yield specific and as an old school 4x4er with a Landcruiser to match I’ve never used anything except steel rims . Well recovered Ronny 😎👍🍻
Tex an e-mail address ?
Thanks for the handy information for what to do during and after. Glad you're all okay 👍
Glad you’re alright mate
Toyota (page 210 service manual) recommends 209Nm torque setting for steel wheels and 131Nm for alloy... I just checked then after watching your vid coz to be honest, didn't realise for steel it was a whopping 209Nm... glad you got yourself sorted out, a very precarious situation!
131NM are for Toyota alloys wheels they have a specific loose washer nut and the Toyota wheels have a matching seat.
The alloys he runs are just tapered
Yeah, I’m confused here. Ronnie says “90 to 110” which is about 135Nm I think. The manual says 209Nm (for steel).
@@dominichyde788 well the manual doesn’t really know what NM Ronny should be running there specs are for the factory alloy nuts and seats, these aftermarket ones are totally different
After a close call breaking three of the six lugs on one tire, I started carrying a full set of font and rear lugs with spare nuts as well. fast forward a few years and i almost loose another one after forgetting to double check the lug nuts after changing a over my wheels. Lucky I had the spares as I was able to get back on the road again instead of going home on a flat bed. Literary a carbon copy of Ronny's experience other than dropping the wheel. Three things it taught me was carry spares, always, always check the lug nuts with a torque wrench and don't trust anyone always check it your self
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Hey mate after what's you have done with wheel studs I would change them to get press in because to get the studs flush with base might of stretched them a bit to far bud... keep it safe!!!!
I'm sure all service manuals say wheel nuts should be re checked x amount of kms after a wheel has been fitted. I know the time I didn't recheck them one started to come loose. Lucky for me I heard a clunking noise and checked.
Yep 100km it's because the wheel will settle in and nuts come loose due to vibration.
I do this on new wheels
Thank you for sharing this. It was very informative!
Hello Ronny
I know the situation. I had the same problem with a Nissan Patrol Y61 a few years ago.
The biggest problem with Nissan / Toyota are the soft wheel bolts.
My solution: I bought 30 mm wheel spacers with wheel bolts in 10G. strength.
The WRC drivers use this on their rally cars. they are OK for up to 180 Nm. And open wheel nuts, so I can see if the nuts are properly seated on the wheel bolts..
I Change the wheels 20 times, on the spacers, NO problems with the studs.....
Greetings from Germany Andy....
Always use a Torque wrench on alloy wheels not a bad idea for steel wheels either. Glad all of you are ok. Including the 79 series
You need NutWare wheel nut indicators, I lost a wheel on my camper trailer last year because I didn't tighten the wheel nuts up after regreasing the bearings and have been using NutWare indicators ever since.
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Great episode Ronny:D Ive been running Pro Comp steel wheels for 10 years, dont think you can get them in Aus anymore and they are brilliant. Lucky break fella
About 20 years ago I was towing a box trailer from WA to NSW when I saw a wheel pass me thinking someone has lost one and it was me the hub had separated from the axle fortunately the trailer stayed upright till I stopped.
The answer to the lost wheel problem is : when you change wheels particularly steel to alloy BRUSH THE DIRT/DUST OFF THE STUD AREA HUB FACES.
Steel wheels generally have a concentric rib around the stud radius and this can fill with dirt and the wheel will tolerate it. Alloy wheels have a flat machined face that cannot tolerate any dirt or surface irregularities . You can tighten the stud on an alloy up to spec and it will hold perfectly on a clean face , but if there is any sand grit or mud on that face it will work it's way out from the stud face and the wheel will then work loose . I have seen it happen about 3 times and had a wheel come loose on my own 4x which is where I discovered the cause. Hope this helps.
Wow, lucky you were carrying spare studs! That’s one thing I’ve never even thought of. I know what I’m buying today!
In an emergency you can always take one out of each of the others wheels.
I wouldn't recommend doing any backflips after though.
@@Robert-cu9bm I think using spare lugs you carry with you is a hell of a lot easier than removing the other three tires to rob their studs to make it home.
@@kingduckford
Obviously, it's also a lot easier to not have your wheel fall off.... That's why I said in an emergency as not everyone is carrying spares.
Thanks for reminding me why my Troopy has steel wheels and wheel nut indicators
Hi Ronny. Glad you are ok. That happened to our brand new Subaru second service. They rotate wheels and did not tighten all the wheels. Wife pulled in with noise I checked all nuts loose and five missing driving home. Not good. Regards John
had the problem over the years on my bush taxis an troopys .it's the heat transfer between the steel hub an alloy rim easier to explain over the phone but that's wat the main problem is an with the older 6stud combine the steel hub with the alloy rims an stretched wheel studs its worce than the 5stud due to 5stud thicker studs less susceptible to stretching .unless over tightened to the point of snapping like a carot .love the content .
You said it Ronny steel is the way to go for true off roading.Have had steels since the early 1980's.Every out back 'Cocky' ran them so that was good enough for me.
Last time my wheels flew off was visiting a shop that worked on my wheels, over tightening using impact guns. Even at a good shop technicians come and go. They chip the paint off my Brembo brake calipers, drastically mismatched tire pressures, wrong toque on lugs etc. Till this day I bring my wheels to any shops off, torque the lugs and check the tire pressure myself
When it comes to mechanics tightening up wheel nuts with impact wrenches, I never trust where they’ve torqued them to. Once home I always lift the car up & loosen then re-torque any wheel nuts they’ve touched, back up to 110-113nm on my Toyota 4wd. Only ever had alloy rims on my 4wds for years & travelled all over. I’ve also greased my studs for around a decade too (again with no problems whatsoever). Just got to make sure the wheel nuts are tightened to spec or very close to, and triple make sure they’re all done up to the same spec per wheel. Takes an extra minute per wheel for piece of mind.
Here in Germany we are required to have a warning triangle in the car all the time.
Is there no such law in Australia?
If you have an accident you're supposed to walk 100 meters away from your car and stand the reflective trinagle on the side of the road so, the arriving traffic would notice you way before it arrives you.
I agree, the described situation is the perfect case where a warning triangle is necessary. Walk to the other side of the bend and install it, so other drivers know a surprise wait for them after the turn.
Excellent video Ronny,
I'm curious, Factory Allow vs Aftermarket Steel wheels.
What would you suggest?
My old patrol had steel rims, sunrasia tupe, it came with them. However my Dmax came standard with alloys. I have heard of the same problem you had so i installed witness indicators to the wheel nuts, easy to see if there is any movement.
Crikey what a drama. Lucky it wasn't the front end. Definitively getting some spare studs.
Thanks for sharing.
Who else stepped out to check their wheel nuts :) - thanks for another great video Ronny!
17" socket? Gawd damn bro!
Glad your ok 👍
Just wondering if the alloy wheels sit correctly on the hub to take the weight of the vehicle, instead of the studs?
Not all hubs are designed to be hubcentric. Lugcentric is another common design.
Hey Ronny, I got a photo with ya at perth 4wd show, cheers for that dude. Meant to ask, when are you bringing back the All Aussie Adventures hand shake Easter eggs?!
Over torquing lugs crystalizes the stud metal making it brittle. Had the same thing happen going from moab to the north rim on a jeep. Mechanic @ home said there was a service bulletin about it. Torque wrench every time i change a wheel. I also carry 5 spare studs now. Loose lugs tend to just spin off.
Very interesting and helpful advice. Everytime I got new tyres fitted they tell me to check wheel nuts after 50km. Some trucks have those arrows fitted to see if they move. Not sure if that's practical for 4wd's.
Thanks for the lesson , no matter what wheel rims ones have if they not fastened properly it will fall off .
Living in south africa we find that bad roads with potholes and corrugated surface loosen wheel studs , greetings mate from south africa 🇿🇦 👍
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Toque setting on a prado 120 is so important, I have had new tyres replaced a couple of times and then had warped brake rotors soon after. Because the wheels nuts had been over torqued causing the rotors to warp. Now always back off the nuts and set then to 95 ftlbs. When i go 4x4ing or long trips always take torque wrench and check the settings. Saves me the cost of new front rotors.
Bit similar thing happened to me. But act before I die in the outback.
Changed my Prado 120 front lower control arms from very well know suspension chain store before my Birdsville and out back trip a 2x months ago.
One week later went to my regular mechanic for last minute checkup (always do this before a big trip)
Ended up finding suspension man did not tightened lower bolts on both front front shockies (only hand tightened)
Key points.
- check every part before leave
- tight all nuts and bolts
- make sure to mark nut/ bolt with permanent ink marker ( easy for visual inspection on the road)
- check your marks every morning at least
- take spares
Rooma
Invest in a torque wrench Ronny, 131Nm for alloys and 209Nm for steelies, Also due to the conditions+Km youve done look at replacing your studs every 120Thou Km.
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Hay Ronny
I use a paint pen on the wheel nuts after you torque them up. All he lines on the nuts are painted in the same direction.
That way you can see instantly if one is loose.
Some time whatever you do a wheel will fall off, I had a stub axle break off on a trailer, also a steel rim split in two so the center was left on the hub but the rest went off on its own.
A great outcome with no-one hurt. It might be time to name the insurance company.
Remember too wheel studs like any stud/bolt only has a certain life span. Only can torque/stretch them so many times before they give up aswell. Good video yet again Rhonny
Do those after market alloys have a pressed in
steel insert with a taper that matches the nuts? Should stay tight if the stud is clean and tightened correctly.
If alloys are slightly crooked or there is dirt on the face. Doesn't matter how tight you do them, that eventually moves and allows the nut too be loose.
@@Robert-cu9bm obviously you have to wipe the faces before lifting the wheel on. I think the issue is that aftermarket alloys often don't have the quality. They must have a steel insert.
@@Robert-cu9bm of course if the mechanic doesn't install correctly in the first place......
@@stuartmanuell4207
Nissan done a service campaign for their wheels falling off.
Yeah it happens with alloy rims. Happened to me in a dmax but Isuzu roadside assist was excellent. Never had a lose wheel nut since with steel sunraysia rims.
Not unheard of on cruisers
Main causes, incorrect torque or debris between hub and rim
Also the factory alloy nut and seats ( loose washer ) are far superior to the tapered ones
Nothing wrong with alloy wheels for 4wds you just need to get the right ones, we had some walker evans made for our 79 specifically requested the lug seat to suit the factory 79 alloys nuts worked a treat
We had the front right come off on the 90 when the LBJ collapsed. This is apparently a 'thing' with the 90 series. At least roadside assist sorted us out and everything was sorted bcoz a mechanic was responsible for not fixing the LBJ so they had to pay what insurance didn't cover. It took THREE MONTHS to get fixed though.
Very, very lucky! A friend of mine had the same thing happen to him on his 79 series, towing a camper trailer. Back wheel came off, The whole car and trailer rolled 3 times from 80kph before stopping. Everything totalled, miraculously, none of the 4 people in the cruiser got seriously hurt. Insurance paid up but the trip to the cape never happened.
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Was driving with my old man when one wheel came of. It was a twin axel. Crowded hill in Dublin so lucky nobody was injured. You have to remove any stones between the dual wheel's straight away.
Stuff like this is why I do as much mechanical repairs myself at home as I live on farm land and have experience in mechanical repairs and I always double check stuff and regularly check basic things weekly like wheel nuts, oil level, coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid and brake pad life, slide pins, caliper pistons, rubber piston seals ect...
Very lucky indeed it could have been much worse! Thanks for sharing so others may learn.
Interesting episode, a front wheel comming off could have sent you into oncoming traffic with very different results
Had this happen on my boat trailer, lucky I had steel rims and detected the wobble
Wheel nut indicators are my next port of call
I have alloys and after new shockers (Pedders) were put on they forgot to tighten the rear wheel nuts. I felt and heard the problem, stopped and tightened them. Alloys gave me plenty of warning on my Ranger. The holes were not even enlarged.
Sorry to hear. Glad that nobody was harmed. But, I have a torque wrench, I always check my wheelnuts after a wheel rotation or before/after a big trip.
They are not overly expensive, guess 150 AUD. So, save yourself and your car from more expensive afermaths.
Instick with steel so you can beat out the dents. Never thought about the tire wobble.
Glad you're OK
Cheers!
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Happened to me in my 79 cruiser towing 22ft caravan ,cruiser was starting to wander put it down to shit roads slowed down from 100kms ph turned left turned right into small town left hand rear wheel came off , alloy wheels , my fault for not checking wheel nuts after new tyres fitted , had to use caravan jack aswell ,also one of my alloy rims had a crack in it slow leak , gunna stick to the alloys lot lighter and looks great
Love your show Cheers
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Well done fixing the vehicle, roadside, in the dark, with what you had on board! What a scary spot to stop too. Lucky it was the passenger side and you weren’t under the truck in the middle of the road with traffic skidding up to you!
I’m not surprised at the insurance company. Happy to take our money, but when you need their help they make you work for it.
You left out another possible cause which is fatigue from overloading and operating beyond the vehicles design parameters. It’d be interesting to crack test some of the remaining studs and see if they’re fatigued.
💯 this was the issue. Not everyone else's fault.
I wouldn't be surprised, considering how the aussies seem to load their rigs. My profile pic is my truck, a 2010 Ford Ranger 4.0l 4x4 5spd. My full "build" is 33s, 2inch lift, 4.56 gears, rear lunch box locker, front bumper and winch, RTT, cooler, stove, a couple camping bins, some tools, aftermarket radio and sub, some lights, 25L of fuel and then some other spare fluids, then a dirt bike on a hitch rack. I've guessed at the weight on the camping gear and factored in the weight of everything else roughly. I'll be 100-150lbs under gross weight. I could add sliders and rear bumpers and a hi lift and more stuff if I wanted to but my goal is to keep it under the 5150 lb gross weight.
we get 1 79 a month with snapped studs at work, wheels are torque wrench tightened, all stock steel wheels, its just a toyota thing, studs are made of chinesium maybe, nothing what so ever to do with tyre size and loading
If he was within GVWR and has not ever really exceeded it then I don't think that would be a factor.
Remember, this platform's existence is ostensibly as a commercial vehicle for that market, where it's expected to be loaded. This isn't some consumer-grade "lifestyle" truck designed to appeal to people that don't want to put anything into the bed because they'd scratch it.
I think you all need to rewatch the video. You missed the points.
Had similar problem recently, my mechanic didn't torque the CV bolts on rear axle. After some time started loosing bolts and snapped the remaining two in the middle of a busy street - suddenly had a front wheel drive car. 😀 Took almost an hour to put that back together with the few tools I got in the car. Lessons come unexpectedly some time.
Time to go full 79 west Oz mine spec and throw on some yellow wheel nut indicators! 🤣
I was thinking the same thing. It's not a stupid idea.
City discount used an impact gun to tighten the wheel nuts and not a torque wrench and on the front right the pajero is suppose to have 6 nuts but they only tightened 5 and there was one missing😢
In UK mate 👍 we have some item witch is oval shaped but one side goes to a point ,put all the points facing one way so you can visually see if they've come undone mate 👍 hoo roo ,on steel wheels not alloys 👍
That's a truck thing.
Also nissan done a service recall for their Ti patrols with the alloy wheels, and that was their fix.
PS: left front on Patrols have a nasty habit of coming loose if you're running alloys.
Everyone I know with a patrol and alloys have had their left front come off.
I had it multiple times.
You should always torque the nuts a second time after a small drive after taking wheels off.
In the UK, with commercial vehicles; if they have had work done on the wheels such as a wheel change then they should be checked for tightness after 100km. We have tags left in the trucks on the dashboard with the notes and they are bright colours. The depot has a maintenance section where we can either go and grab the torque tool ourselves or one of the maintenance guys will show us how to do it, or do it themselves.
But it sounds like the recovery company didn't like you either. Ive had problems with my 4x4 in the past and have opted to call a local recovery company directly.
I had the same happen to my landcruiser Ute about 2 years ago. Same rear left wheel. But I hadn’t had my car serviced recently or the wheels off in the preceding 4-5 months. Was a bit of excitement !
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Hi Ronny I have a 2000 79 series towing a 3 ton caravan right hand 75 kpa corner left hand rear flu off into the scrub same I aways check the nuts CSA mags the mags went to recyclers I now have mine spec kings steel wheels On the inside of the CSA Mag 960 Kg On the Kings 1896 Kg have not had a wheel come lose yet Ps I have heard that its common with 79 series with mags to lose the Left Hand Rear
so you don't have independent roadside assist covering the vehicle and caravan like RAC?
We did a half lap recently and I checked all wheel nuts at the end of each driving day for exactly this reason. It didn’t matter if it was a 100km or 1000km drive. I do t have the skills to do the repairs Ronnie did so prevention is the key for us.
You can get alloy wheels to wobble with loose nuts. You can get wheels with a bigger hub diameter and have them only lug-centric
Had similar happen in company Hilux 150km north of Kalgoorlie on Yarri rd.
At 100km/hr was one hell of a ride till I got it stopped. Caught a glimpse of the rear wheel going past as we were going sideways down the gravel rd.
At least with the gravel/dirt surface the physical damage was not too great. The biggest issue was trying to unfold the backing plate where the impact with the road folded it in.Couldn't get the brake drum on at first. Used to be a boilermaker many years ago so had some tricks up my sleeve.
Found the brake drum and 3 studs, swapped nuts and one stud from other wheels and stuck one of the spare tyres on. Hunted for a hour or so, never did find that bloody wheel, still out there somewhere.
Limped into Kalgoorlie 6 hours after leaving Edjudina. Took some time and effort to find a set of studs for that particular model of Hilux. Shoved them in, replaced old studs, and headed back to Perth.
Bloody alloy wheels, didn't feel a thing until it about 3 seconds before it took of.
Had nuts come loose of my landcruiser steel rims. Could feel and hear a clunk as I swayed it from side to side. More than enough warning if aware of the signs. Stopped, tightened the loose wheel nuts and carried on
I always torque my nuts up to 130nm never had an issue, I only started doing that after I snapped a stud by over tightening which was a nightmare to replace. I will get myself some spare studs after seeing this. Glad no-one was hurt and it wasn’t too bad a fix
I had a case on a battlefield when the tire was hit by a shrapnel and was flat. However, I could not stop there since it was a dangerous area. My good old 2003 Mitsubishi l200 made 7km driving just 3 wheels, basically driving on the rim. The tire came off and rim decreased it’s diameter twice. After that I stopped in safe area, just changed spare wheel and came to the base.
I keep an Estwing shingle hatchet in my jeep. Good as a hammer and can use for chopping. I did this as one of your recommendation of multi use tools and less weight by carrying two tools
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Lucky the loose wheel didn't cause serious damage to someone or thing
The rear left fell off my 79 but I think it was sabotage. I was camping at a caravan park and woke up at 3 am to see someone walking away from my car. Left camp that morning and got about 2 km than my alloy wheel fell off about 200m from the highway. 1 stud snapped and 4 missing wheel nuts. I jacked it up and took one wheel nut off every wheel and luckily found the broken stud and wheel nut on the road which mad 4 each wheel. I drove back to the caravan park and found 4 of the 5 wheel nuts all in one little spot about 200m from where I camped. I drove 2km on 1 wheel nut and couldn’t feel a thing. Luckily it broke just before the highway.
Thanjs for sharing. How many lugs you have on each wheel and did you torq the nuts with a torque tool ?
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sometimes insurance feel like a scam
One uses alloy wheels to reduce the unsprung weight. The reason why other 4wheelers stick with steel rims is you can knock out dents with a hammer where alloy wheels don't allow that.
On a side note, why didn't you check your wheel nuts during the trip?? Like after you aired up coming off the trail??
Ofcorse a longer bore of a ally rim will have a better purchase. My question is why didn't you check them before U left the mechanic, as I always put on "re check after 50km" tags. On the steering wheel. And pre starts every morning on your trip?
Hy Ronny ,you’re the best.
As you, in Italy with my little Suzuki Jimny 🤣.