This was one of my first C&R purchases from RTI a few months ago and you would’ve never guessed it came from Ethiopia. Had a majority of the bluing on it except for the top of the barrel from where the handguard ends to the bayonet lug. Incredibly smooth action as well as a very good bore
The best bore cleaner I found is chlorinated brake klean, spray it down the bore while using the drill brush and you can watch all the black crap just pour out, I works very quickly too
@@Surplus_Restoration You can buy spirit based or water based wood dye in many different colours _walnut teak mahogany_ etc. These are applied to bare wood prior to any clear finish. I am in the UK where common brands are Colron, Liberon, Rustins.
Not to be a purist or anything like that but the pronunciation of the rifles name is Car-can-o, there are three syllables in the name. Sorry I didn't hear, aides are in for repair, but did you neutralize the stripper after scrapping it off, just curious.
I couldn’t comment on your latest video as comments are turned off. At the end of your video you showcased a c grade lebel. I have 3 of these and they are ROUGH. I would love to know if you had made a refit post on it or if you could share some insight on what you did to de rust? All of my bolts are very rusty so I thought for those I may do electrolysis but am curious what you had done?
Yeah sorry, appealing a copyright issue with the audio so i can have comments turned on. Haven't set up a reddit yet, planning on it. As far as getting rid of the rust, used some very abrasive bristle brushed and bore cleaner to get the heavy stuff off, then used blue and rust remover, then a lot of wire wheeling. But even then the receiver still had a good amount of pitting so i decided to sand it. I rarely ever sand anymore (for anything other than the bolt), actually don't think i have since i got the wire wheel, but it came out great and the markings were still deep enough that i wasn't worried about grounding them down. Also used a rotary tool with some sanding wheel attachments to get in any of the hard to reach sections. If you want me to do any restoration work on your Lebels or if I could purchase one of them off of you email me! surplusrestoration@gmail.com
Could you show your blued weapons up close in the sunlight. I find that in the shade i get a jet black finish pre oiling.... but in bright light/sunlight through the windows in the morning, I can vaguely see small irregular translucent patches in the rust bluing but it cant be seen under normal light or daylight unless you look at it at macro level
Yeah I get what you’re saying. During the winter time here it’s hard to get good daylight pictures and they don’t really come out that good. I use to notice some irregularities too in the past when I didn’t use a heat gun. Now using it, it’s much more consistent and I don’t really get any splotchiness. Sometimes though I can tell that I could have done a couple more applications to get it darker, however it comes out more consistent as I said so it looks fine.
Sweet. One thing I’ve noticed with my rust blueing is that it’s consistently turning out very light after multiple passes. Do could it be I’m applying too much solution after on the second and third continuous passes? I don’t think I want the part I’m trying to blue to be as dark of a copper color like the first go around right?
Possible reasons, 1. it isn't rusting enough (long enough)so boiling isn't converting enough to black oxide and hence it isn't getting dark fast 2. If you rub your applications after the 2nd/3rd round rather than one wipe with little or no overlap....the HCl in the rusting solution will wipe the previously adhered layers of black oxide 3. Carding too vigorously will also remove the older layers most likely problem is number 1
Yeah so after experimenting it really does come down to how much solution you’re using one the next applications, go really light. You still want it to come out to that copper like color with the hydrogen peroxide, but as I said, the more applications you do you get diminishing returns. Basically it’s not going to take on any more rust bluing. So usually around the 4th or 5th application I can tell that it’s not building up that much rust. But at that point it’s already pretty dark.
@@bpm74 yeah I’m going to experiment some more tonight with those suggestions. I’m thinking it’s really about how much application in applying per set. Before I was doing the same each time. After I tried a very light application I’m getting much better results. How long do you let it rust? Are you using Hydrogen peroxide to speed the process or do you think that’s not as effective as letting it rust naturally?
@@Surplus_Restoration I think that’s definitely the key. I noticed a bigger difference with using a lot less solution after the first pass. Still not quite as dark as I’d like, but much better! Thank you
Great Videos, Ive had more success lately with the bluing but some parts come out like a brown color. What could be the issue with that? Also what oil do you use when you are finished with the bluing?
Most likely not boiling/steaming long enough. You can also do “browning” via rust bluing and only difference is you don’t boil/steam the parts after each application
Soaking that wood in acetone for a couple hours will take away/clean up so much of those darker stain marks on the stock. Worked like a charm on my 2 Martini Henry short lever rifles.
You should try restoring an RTI 6.5 Vetterli. Their inexpensive and usually in somewhat shootable state (if you have the right ammo) would love to see a prettied up vetterli carcano
@@matthewblack1981 C&Rsenals loading was not the safe, they used recalled bullets that caused overpressure. However if you load it correctly with correct components, and the gun is in good condition with good headspace, their safe shooters. I've shot them safely.
no they are not that is misinformation, they were never designed to fire smokeless powder and were hastily converted during ww1. Standard 6.5 will cause over pressure and they blow. Some reload with a cast bullet with a reduced charge but thats still risky. This gun is meant and should only be operated in black powder the 6.5 should be at all costs avoided. @@bluejay117
@@ryanward8039 yes, by far most durable and least toxic, not that bead blasting is toxic but rust bluing is by far the best bluing normal gun owners can do!
This was one of my first C&R purchases from RTI a few months ago and you would’ve never guessed it came from Ethiopia. Had a majority of the bluing on it except for the top of the barrel from where the handguard ends to the bayonet lug. Incredibly smooth action as well as a very good bore
The best bore cleaner I found is chlorinated brake klean, spray it down the bore while using the drill brush and you can watch all the black crap just pour out, I works very quickly too
Your videos are so detailed, i love them, thanks so much.
I am so glad you are actually rust bluing. But you really need a carding wheel.
but u did a beautiful job in general i hate rebuilding a rifle because it can kill all collector value
id rather have a cleanly worn gun than refinished but RTI destroys them with wire wheeling them
It was the ethiopians, who did that. Also that they were left in some old arms shed for some 60 plus years.
Excellent work. Personally, I think dyeing the stock before oiling to get a uniform colour would improve appearance.
What do you use to dye the stock?
@@Surplus_Restoration You can buy spirit based or water based wood dye in many different colours _walnut teak mahogany_ etc. These are applied to bare wood prior to any clear finish. I am in the UK where common brands are Colron, Liberon, Rustins.
Don't do that, use acetone to clean the oil soak then danish oil dark walnut. Or you can do the boiled linseed oil.@@Surplus_Restoration
Not to be a purist or anything like that but the pronunciation of the rifles name is Car-can-o, there are three syllables in the name. Sorry I didn't hear, aides are in for repair, but did you neutralize the stripper after scrapping it off, just curious.
The italian way to say carcano is car-ka-no
I couldn’t comment on your latest video as comments are turned off. At the end of your video you showcased a c grade lebel. I have 3 of these and they are ROUGH. I would love to know if you had made a refit post on it or if you could share some insight on what you did to de rust? All of my bolts are very rusty so I thought for those I may do electrolysis but am curious what you had done?
Yeah sorry, appealing a copyright issue with the audio so i can have comments turned on. Haven't set up a reddit yet, planning on it. As far as getting rid of the rust, used some very abrasive bristle brushed and bore cleaner to get the heavy stuff off, then used blue and rust remover, then a lot of wire wheeling. But even then the receiver still had a good amount of pitting so i decided to sand it. I rarely ever sand anymore (for anything other than the bolt), actually don't think i have since i got the wire wheel, but it came out great and the markings were still deep enough that i wasn't worried about grounding them down. Also used a rotary tool with some sanding wheel attachments to get in any of the hard to reach sections. If you want me to do any restoration work on your Lebels or if I could purchase one of them off of you email me! surplusrestoration@gmail.com
@@Surplus_Restorationsent you an email!
Could you show your blued weapons up close in the sunlight. I find that in the shade i get a jet black finish pre oiling.... but in bright light/sunlight through the windows in the morning, I can vaguely see small irregular translucent patches in the rust bluing but it cant be seen under normal light or daylight unless you look at it at macro level
Yeah I get what you’re saying. During the winter time here it’s hard to get good daylight pictures and they don’t really come out that good. I use to notice some irregularities too in the past when I didn’t use a heat gun. Now using it, it’s much more consistent and I don’t really get any splotchiness. Sometimes though I can tell that I could have done a couple more applications to get it darker, however it comes out more consistent as I said so it looks fine.
@@Surplus_Restoration thank you for your reply. I agree with you... but I am beginning to feel that a thorough de greasing is a must .....
Sweet. One thing I’ve noticed with my rust blueing is that it’s consistently turning out very light after multiple passes. Do could it be I’m applying too much solution after on the second and third continuous passes? I don’t think I want the part I’m trying to blue to be as dark of a copper color like the first go around right?
Possible reasons,
1. it isn't rusting enough (long enough)so boiling isn't converting enough to black oxide and hence it isn't getting dark fast
2. If you rub your applications after the 2nd/3rd round rather than one wipe with little or no overlap....the HCl in the rusting solution will wipe the previously adhered layers of black oxide
3. Carding too vigorously will also remove the older layers
most likely problem is number 1
Yeah so after experimenting it really does come down to how much solution you’re using one the next applications, go really light. You still want it to come out to that copper like color with the hydrogen peroxide, but as I said, the more applications you do you get diminishing returns. Basically it’s not going to take on any more rust bluing. So usually around the 4th or 5th application I can tell that it’s not building up that much rust. But at that point it’s already pretty dark.
@@bpm74spot on man
@@bpm74 yeah I’m going to experiment some more tonight with those suggestions. I’m thinking it’s really about how much application in applying per set. Before I was doing the same each time. After I tried a very light application I’m getting much better results. How long do you let it rust? Are you using Hydrogen peroxide to speed the process or do you think that’s not as effective as letting it rust naturally?
@@Surplus_Restoration I think that’s definitely the key. I noticed a bigger difference with using a lot less solution after the first pass. Still not quite as dark as I’d like, but much better! Thank you
what solution are you using for bluing?
Great Videos, Ive had more success lately with the bluing but some parts come out like a brown color. What could be the issue with that? Also what oil do you use when you are finished with the bluing?
Most likely not boiling/steaming long enough. You can also do “browning” via rust bluing and only difference is you don’t boil/steam the parts after each application
Thanks, what lubricant do you use after your done bluing and cleaning up the parts? @@Surplus_Restoration
Soaking that wood in acetone for a couple hours will take away/clean up so much of those darker stain marks on the stock. Worked like a charm on my 2 Martini Henry short lever rifles.
You should try restoring an RTI 6.5 Vetterli. Their inexpensive and usually in somewhat shootable state (if you have the right ammo) would love to see a prettied up vetterli carcano
C&R arsenal blew up 2 of them and had to reload the ammo ridiculously low for it to function. That's a rifle better left to time.
@@matthewblack1981that was almost certainly a load problem. The rifles aren’t that dangerous.
@@matthewblack1981 C&Rsenals loading was not the safe, they used recalled bullets that caused overpressure. However if you load it correctly with correct components, and the gun is in good condition with good headspace, their safe shooters. I've shot them safely.
no they are not that is misinformation, they were never designed to fire smokeless powder and were hastily converted during ww1. Standard 6.5 will cause over pressure and they blow. Some reload with a cast bullet with a reduced charge but thats still risky. This gun is meant and should only be operated in black powder the 6.5 should be at all costs avoided. @@bluejay117
Great work
Are you only boiling once after the first bluing? Or after each application?
After each application
Are your services for sale? If so how much to do a piece like this? Excellent work!
Yes they are! And I charge $350 for rifles, $250 for pistols
how durable is your type of bluing
Extremely durable, if you were to compare to cold bluing it’s night and day
You practically have to bead blast it off. This is perhaps the most durable bluing you can achieve. And it looks great.
@@ryanward8039 yes, by far most durable and least toxic, not that bead blasting is toxic but rust bluing is by far the best bluing normal gun owners can do!