I’m a month late but just a bit of info You can easily put the sear spring in… like insanely easy with just a flat blade screw driver…. Put the long end in first make sure it slips into its retainer grove on the mag release… and then slip the screw driver head under the bend in the spring… and cam the screw driver up against the sear and it will slide the spring into its grove in the sear… you’ll hear it snap in….. No pliers No squeezing the spring no fuss I do the same thing to remove them ass well… wedge the screw driver between the curve of the spring and sear and they pop right out…. Someone else had already mentioned the infamous stock bolt so I won’t bother
Perfect timing! I just got started on my latest RTI resto. Im taking the plunge into hot blue with the mark lee #1 blue solution. They wire wheel the hell outta mine so why not.
I’ve restored a few of these over the years and after getting off most of the gunk on the stock/wood parts as you did I put the parts in the dishwasher and run it a couple times, it comes out beautifully clean as well as slightly swelling the wood that allows me to sand out the dings while not reducing the overall dimensions of the wood. To simulate various stock colors I’ve done some by using two different wood stain colors, one was barn red then once dried I applied an extremely light coat of onyx black wood stain, this just tones down the red to a more muted tone, this is effective for replicating a Lithgow stock. Thankfully, the Brits painted most of the rifle so I can use ceramic coatings/paint and even Alumahyde II on some parts. For non-painted parts I used manganese phosphate to parkerize the parts like the bolt (sometimes the magazine as well, just depends on the rifle) and trigger assembly. There’s other options to blacken parts, just ensure it’ll be the right shade you’re going for, if it doesn’t look right, you can wire brush the finish off with a bench grinder and start over. Obviously it’s better to use a sand blast cabinet or a vibratory media tumbler but a bench grinder with a wire brush wheel works fine for small parts. If the wood finish has an uneven finish with slightly glossy patches, use some two part Duracoat flat clear coat but just one good coat only and it’ll look great and be resistant to oils and solutions.
I used true oil and get a great results. I do use hot water and degreaser allowing the furniture completely dry before using the True Oil. I allow the oil to dry overnight.
Randomly came across this video and I think you do a really good job thoroughly explain each step and the reasoning behind it. Idk if you already know this or not but you might want to consider using something other than h2o2 as a catalyst/oxidizer, especially when heat is involved. It will cause hydrogen embrittlement which is something you certainly do not want when it comes to case hardened steel. That's like the reason why none of the rust blue solutions intended for use on firearms contain or recommend the use of h2o2. Heating the metal parts(250 degrees if manageable) prior to applying the rust blue solution will accelerate the rusting process substantially by itself. If you do continue to use h2o2, an excellent source for high concentration(37%) is your local gardening/hydroponic store.
Have never had any issue, even with the high temps. What i do know is that boiling/steaming almost always helps remove hydrogen to prevent embrittlement. I prolonged the time I steam the barrel/receiver to help with this. Prolonged exposure to elevated temperatures is generally more effective in driving out hydrogen. It's possible there could be a degree of hydrogen embrittlement, but if there is, it will only be an extremely thin layer of the metal. I'm pretty sure case hardened steel is less susceptible to embrittlement compared to through-hardened steels? And from what I've found again, while heating with a torch can introduce thermal stress, the subsequent boiling/steaming step is pretty much sufficient to release any absorbed hydrogen
Any chance you could get pictures of the bores? I’m very interested in buying from RTI, but many of the videos I see say that barrels come so worn out that the rounds will keyhole. I feel like in many cases, though RTI is almost the only option to get certain rifles for reasonable price. Any way another great video, love your work.
@@saviorsloth7784 appreciate it! Yeah so getting decent shots/videos of the bores has been a little tough but did it for this one just forgot to add it in. Will start adding going forward, well at least what they look like after cleaning. I think out of all 40+guns I’ve gotten from them only 2 were really bad with no rifling and another with just a ton of pitting. Almost all the other I’ve gotten have had solid rifling but little to some frosting. I always pay extra for the “select overall condition” to be guaranteed a good bore. Or, I choose from their hand select firearms they have so I know exactly what I’m getting and how good the bore is. Once again, a little more $ but always worth it.
The only error I saw was that you finished with the butt. You should have started with the butt. See the squared nose on the long butt bolt? That fits in a squared indentation in the forend. It can crack the wooden forend if installed lastly. Otherwise, a very good video.
This video comes in handy for us who want to restore surplus guns.
I’m a month late but just a bit of info
You can easily put the sear spring in… like insanely easy with just a flat blade screw driver….
Put the long end in first make sure it slips into its retainer grove on the mag release… and then slip the screw driver head under the bend in the spring… and cam the screw driver up against the sear and it will slide the spring into its grove in the sear… you’ll hear it snap in…..
No pliers
No squeezing the spring no fuss
I do the same thing to remove them ass well… wedge the screw driver between the curve of the spring and sear and they pop right out….
Someone else had already mentioned the infamous stock bolt so I won’t bother
nice
Perfect timing! I just got started on my latest RTI resto. Im taking the plunge into hot blue with the mark lee #1 blue solution. They wire wheel the hell outta mine so why not.
I’ve restored a few of these over the years and after getting off most of the gunk on the stock/wood parts as you did I put the parts in the dishwasher and run it a couple times, it comes out beautifully clean as well as slightly swelling the wood that allows me to sand out the dings while not reducing the overall dimensions of the wood. To simulate various stock colors I’ve done some by using two different wood stain colors, one was barn red then once dried I applied an extremely light coat of onyx black wood stain, this just tones down the red to a more muted tone, this is effective for replicating a Lithgow stock. Thankfully, the Brits painted most of the rifle so I can use ceramic coatings/paint and even Alumahyde II on some parts. For non-painted parts I used manganese phosphate to parkerize the parts like the bolt (sometimes the magazine as well, just depends on the rifle) and trigger assembly. There’s other options to blacken parts, just ensure it’ll be the right shade you’re going for, if it doesn’t look right, you can wire brush the finish off with a bench grinder and start over. Obviously it’s better to use a sand blast cabinet or a vibratory media tumbler but a bench grinder with a wire brush wheel works fine for small parts. If the wood finish has an uneven finish with slightly glossy patches, use some two part Duracoat flat clear coat but just one good coat only and it’ll look great and be resistant to oils and solutions.
I used true oil and get a great results. I do use hot water and degreaser allowing the furniture completely dry before using the True Oil. I allow the oil to dry overnight.
Randomly came across this video and I think you do a really good job thoroughly explain each step and the reasoning behind it. Idk if you already know this or not but you might want to consider using something other than h2o2 as a catalyst/oxidizer, especially when heat is involved. It will cause hydrogen embrittlement which is something you certainly do not want when it comes to case hardened steel. That's like the reason why none of the rust blue solutions intended for use on firearms contain or recommend the use of h2o2. Heating the metal parts(250 degrees if manageable) prior to applying the rust blue solution will accelerate the rusting process substantially by itself. If you do continue to use h2o2, an excellent source for high concentration(37%) is your local gardening/hydroponic store.
Have never had any issue, even with the high temps. What i do know is that boiling/steaming almost always helps remove hydrogen to prevent embrittlement. I prolonged the time I steam the barrel/receiver to help with this. Prolonged exposure to elevated temperatures is generally more effective in driving out hydrogen. It's possible there could be a degree of hydrogen embrittlement, but if there is, it will only be an extremely thin layer of the metal. I'm pretty sure case hardened steel is less susceptible to embrittlement compared to through-hardened steels? And from what I've found again, while heating with a torch can introduce thermal stress, the subsequent boiling/steaming step is pretty much sufficient to release any absorbed hydrogen
Any chance you could get pictures of the bores? I’m very interested in buying from RTI, but many of the videos I see say that barrels come so worn out that the rounds will keyhole. I feel like in many cases, though RTI is almost the only option to get certain rifles for reasonable price. Any way another great video, love your work.
@@saviorsloth7784 appreciate it! Yeah so getting decent shots/videos of the bores has been a little tough but did it for this one just forgot to add it in. Will start adding going forward, well at least what they look like after cleaning. I think out of all 40+guns I’ve gotten from them only 2 were really bad with no rifling and another with just a ton of pitting. Almost all the other I’ve gotten have had solid rifling but little to some frosting. I always pay extra for the “select overall condition” to be guaranteed a good bore. Or, I choose from their hand select firearms they have so I know exactly what I’m getting and how good the bore is. Once again, a little more $ but always worth it.
The only error I saw was that you finished with the butt. You should have started with the butt. See the squared nose on the long butt bolt? That fits in a squared indentation in the forend. It can crack the wooden forend if installed lastly. Otherwise, a very good video.
@@gregwilliams386 ahhh that def makes sense, good to know! Thanks for the advice!
B grade rifle????
Yes!
Hey sent you a message on instagram about some help with a Gras I’m doing . Thanks