Thank you! Making screws this long is not an option on the unimat. I bought a 3D printer screw and nut from AliExpress. 1.35 - that is an edge finder, to find the exact edge of the work. So holes will be in their designated positions.
I have a small unimat lathe similar to yours and would like to try and make a compound rest similar to the one you built. any chance you might have the dimensions or a rough plan? How do I contact you. Thanks for any help.
Hi Chester! Glad you liked the design! I don't have the dimensions in a digital format, I have them in my shop project notebook. You are the second person to ask for it - and I will make a digital format and share. As for contacting me - my other YT channel has a website (www.spicecandies.com), contact page and the same mail you can see in the smallathe channel details. I will try (no promises) to do it this Saturday :).
@@Smallathe thanks for responding to my request for more information relating to the compound rest build.. i would like to know the size material i will need.
Congratulations! You will enjoy it. Feel free to ask! If I know or can lend a hand - I will! Spindle rotation - yes. That is a more rigid way to turn tapers. But it requires you to re-center the lathe.
@@Smallathe I'm looking at an edge finder set sold by proxxon that is meant for their mini mill. Do you see any problems with this thinking of mine. It seems like it would work well with the unimat.
@@colemine7008 Hi mate. Proxxon makes good equipment from what I hear (I have no experience with it myself) so no reason not to buy these. This is the short answer... the long one is: THE issue no.1 with edge finders and the unimat as a mill is length and reach. The unimat has a tiny 16mm Z axis movement so If you need to use a long drill a short edge finder won't reach, if you need a short endmill setting a standard edge finder will not allow you to reach the work with the endmill. And, of course, you can't move your mill spindle/motor up or down as the round bar instantly causes you to loose concentricity! My solution? Buy a short shank endmill or a low cost chinese endmill and trim it's shank to size (the unimat chuck needs only 10mm to hold the work). As for the Proxxon set sounds OK to me as it has two edge finders - the longer is less useful for milling but should be good for drilling holes (without countersinking them first, sadly). It has a drawback - it has a shoulder - these edge finders are good for sharp edge work edgefinding but useless when it comes to round parts as the larger ID section shoulder is in the way. The shorter endmill in the set will be better for milling (consier getting an extra cheap one and trimming it). Last tip - try and find a one diameter all round short edgefinder. I have one and I LOVE it. Ok... the END. Finally.... ;)
my man, I am a noob. Might I ask, how hard/expensive is this to get into? I heard of someone who was good with CNC mill who made and sold expensive tractor parts. Is that something you could do on this? Sorry I am just very fascinated by this cool thing you're doin
Hi Math. I'm not a pro by far (I have been making machines for 30 years, recently started machining and learned EVERYTHING from pro youtubers) but here are my two cents: Is it hard? Well… it depends on how much you love this - there is a LOT to learn and I think it's fascinating so I'd say it's not hard to learn - it's FUN. As for expensive: Yes, but it depends. If you have a hobby shop, like myself than all the expenses fall on your shoulders (e.g. just bought brass and aluminum stocks for 100$ yesterday). On the other hand - If you work and sell stuff than your clients pay for materials and, eventually, also for the tools. However, If you really want to work in this field I'd take a course, preferably a degree or even a machine engineering degree - and then work for a few years so you can get your hands-on practice and see the costs, time, work, etc. During that time you can buy the equipment and establish the foundation for your shop. A wonderful example for this method is Abom79 - Adam is a really good machinist and he used to work in a shop for a living and recently started on his how. His shop equipment was bought by his grandfather, father and he himself bought (and he still buys more).So far for classical manual machining. As for CNC - that is a whole new ball game: first of all the machines are MUCH more expensive, much bigger too (not to mention tools). The CNC lathe/mill can do intricate designs a regular lathe/mill will need a LOT of time and work to perform - and CNC mills can do work that a regular mill simply can't do or it's impractical due to cost/time (especially 4D ones). You will need to know machinery basics and G code writing to run a CNC and there are courses on that. I can recommend the channels I follow and love and they do really wonderful things: Tubalcain, Abom79, Stefan Gotteswinter, Joe Pieczynski, Keith Fenner, Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org, MyfordBoy, Solid Rock Machine Shop Inc., ROBRENZ, OxTools. Last but not least - if there are pro's here - please respond… Hope this helps. Saar Tal Ps. Feel free to email me if you have more questions or if you want to try something and need some help.
@@Smallathe Thank you very much for all this information. Research on these data to begin shortly! Again thank you very very much, I may not get to do any soon, but I hope one day I get to do some things with a lathe and milling.
@@smolboyi My pleasure Math! If you can afford it - get a unimat, preferably with many accessories. These cost ~200-500$ and you can practice milling and turning!!! If not - you can easily make a simple lathe using a wood board and an electric hand drill/screwdriver - good for wood turning - but it's a start... There are guys that have built their own lathe from chinese cnc mill parts (check ebay for parts) or crafted one on their own...! Don't let the price tag stop you.... aluminum ways and motors are cheap and this is 90% of a simple lathe. Good luck and let me know if you need help. Saar
@@Smallathe Saar, thank you very much, I will be looking for a unimat though I'll have to save up a bit. Maybe in the mean time I will try some with my electric drill.. Thank you Saar I will have to look into this, but I'm excited to get some practice. One day maybe I could make my own door hinges or something! I mean this is just amazing, if you were good at milling and at carpentry, you could build almost anything I think!
@@smolboyi My pleasure Math, really. Anytime mate. I do see your point - and yes, these crafts are amazing... now think of it this way: Machinery only removes material (except for welding - also a big plus) but re-shaping any metal (without loss except for oxidation) or adding metal by forge welding is also vital - so add blacksmithing skills to your collection and you can really do anything you want. Take a look at Torbjörn Åhman YT channel and see what I mean.... :) p.s. Black bear forge; Christ Centered Ironworks and DF - in the shop Oh - And... how ocould I forget: amazing machinning of clocks and other at Clickspring! And This old Tony - funny and great... and Blondyhacks!!! - all wonderful machining channels :)
Nice. And then after all this nice work you read the manual and find out that you can make tapers with just turning the head on its base to make tapers too... different way of thinking for the same kind of result ...
Glad you liked the video. As for turning tge head - it is the best way, more rigid, less chatter BUT - in many projects you must turn several tapers or a taper in the middle of all the operations. Turning the head and spindle means you loose concentricity - that is a 30-40min wasted on re-centering the lathe... If you need to repeat this step it will take along time.... Also, the turning the lathe does not give you accurate angles... All in all a compoud rest is very useful.
Unusual and simple way to produce a compound rest.
@@jozefbubez6116 Glad you liked it. Thank you sir :)
Nice work!
I love to see what can be done on these small machines. 👍
Thank you. I fully agree...:)
Awesome work mate
Thank you very much :)
thank you for excellence
Thank you Sir!!! Glad you liked it :)
Nice work
Thanks!
Great job !
Did you also make that nice main screw ?
Really challenging ! …
What is that strange tool you use at 1min35 ? … 😬
Thank you!
Making screws this long is not an option on the unimat. I bought a 3D printer screw and nut from AliExpress. 1.35 - that is an edge finder, to find the exact edge of the work. So holes will be in their designated positions.
How well did the 6mm milling cutter work in the drill chuck? I know you made brass adapter collets now
It did quite well. I am very pleased.
I have a small unimat lathe similar to yours and would like to try and make a compound rest similar to the one you built. any chance you might have the dimensions or a rough plan? How do I contact you. Thanks for any help.
Hi Chester! Glad you liked the design! I don't have the dimensions in a digital format, I have them in my shop project notebook. You are the second person to ask for it - and I will make a digital format and share. As for contacting me - my other YT channel has a website (www.spicecandies.com), contact page and the same mail you can see in the smallathe channel details. I will try (no promises) to do it this Saturday :).
@@Smallathe thanks for responding to my request for more information relating to the compound rest build.. i would like to know the size material i will need.
I just bought a unimat sl1000, and I have a 1000 questions.. first.. the spindle rotates.. that takes the place of a compound rest no?
Congratulations! You will enjoy it.
Feel free to ask! If I know or can lend a hand - I will!
Spindle rotation - yes. That is a more rigid way to turn tapers. But it requires you to re-center the lathe.
@@Smallathe I'm looking at an edge finder set sold by proxxon that is meant for their mini mill. Do you see any problems with this thinking of mine. It seems like it would work well with the unimat.
@@colemine7008 Hi mate. Proxxon makes good equipment from what I hear (I have no experience with it myself) so no reason not to buy these. This is the short answer... the long one is: THE issue no.1 with edge finders and the unimat as a mill is length and reach. The unimat has a tiny 16mm Z axis movement so If you need to use a long drill a short edge finder won't reach, if you need a short endmill setting a standard edge finder will not allow you to reach the work with the endmill. And, of course, you can't move your mill spindle/motor up or down as the round bar instantly causes you to loose concentricity! My solution? Buy a short shank endmill or a low cost chinese endmill and trim it's shank to size (the unimat chuck needs only 10mm to hold the work). As for the Proxxon set sounds OK to me as it has two edge finders - the longer is less useful for milling but should be good for drilling holes (without countersinking them first, sadly). It has a drawback - it has a shoulder - these edge finders are good for sharp edge work edgefinding but useless when it comes to round parts as the larger ID section shoulder is in the way. The shorter endmill in the set will be better for milling (consier getting an extra cheap one and trimming it). Last tip - try and find a one diameter all round short edgefinder. I have one and I LOVE it. Ok... the END. Finally.... ;)
my man, I am a noob.
Might I ask, how hard/expensive is this to get into?
I heard of someone who was good with CNC mill who made and sold expensive tractor parts. Is that something you could do on this?
Sorry I am just very fascinated by this cool thing you're doin
Hi Math.
I'm not a pro by far (I have been making machines for 30 years, recently started machining and learned EVERYTHING from pro youtubers) but here are my two cents: Is it hard? Well… it depends on how much you love this - there is a LOT to learn and I think it's fascinating so I'd say it's not hard to learn - it's FUN. As for expensive: Yes, but it depends. If you have a hobby shop, like myself than all the expenses fall on your shoulders (e.g. just bought brass and aluminum stocks for 100$ yesterday). On the other hand - If you work and sell stuff than your clients pay for materials and, eventually, also for the tools. However, If you really want to work in this field I'd take a course, preferably a degree or even a machine engineering degree - and then work for a few years so you can get your hands-on practice and see the costs, time, work, etc. During that time you can buy the equipment and establish the foundation for your shop. A wonderful example for this method is Abom79 - Adam is a really good machinist and he used to work in a shop for a living and recently started on his how. His shop equipment was bought by his grandfather, father and he himself bought (and he still buys more).So far for classical manual machining. As for CNC - that is a whole new ball game: first of all the machines are MUCH more expensive, much bigger too (not to mention tools). The CNC lathe/mill can do intricate designs a regular lathe/mill will need a LOT of time and work to perform - and CNC mills can do work that a regular mill simply can't do or it's impractical due to cost/time (especially 4D ones). You will need to know machinery basics and G code writing to run a CNC and there are courses on that. I can recommend the channels I follow and love and they do really wonderful things: Tubalcain, Abom79, Stefan Gotteswinter, Joe Pieczynski, Keith Fenner, Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org, MyfordBoy, Solid Rock Machine Shop Inc., ROBRENZ, OxTools. Last but not least - if there are pro's here - please respond…
Hope this helps.
Saar Tal
Ps.
Feel free to email me if you have more questions or if you want to try something and need some help.
@@Smallathe Thank you very much for all this information. Research on these data to begin shortly!
Again thank you very very much, I may not get to do any soon, but I hope one day I get to do some things with a lathe and milling.
@@smolboyi My pleasure Math!
If you can afford it - get a unimat, preferably with many accessories. These cost ~200-500$ and you can practice milling and turning!!! If not - you can easily make a simple lathe using a wood board and an electric hand drill/screwdriver - good for wood turning - but it's a start... There are guys that have built their own lathe from chinese cnc mill parts (check ebay for parts) or crafted one on their own...! Don't let the price tag stop you.... aluminum ways and motors are cheap and this is 90% of a simple lathe. Good luck and let me know if you need help.
Saar
@@Smallathe Saar, thank you very much, I will be looking for a unimat though I'll have to save up a bit.
Maybe in the mean time I will try some with my electric drill.. Thank you Saar I will have to look into this, but I'm excited to get some practice.
One day maybe I could make my own door hinges or something! I mean this is just amazing, if you were good at milling and at carpentry, you could build almost anything I think!
@@smolboyi My pleasure Math, really. Anytime mate. I do see your point - and yes, these crafts are amazing... now think of it this way: Machinery only removes material (except for welding - also a big plus) but re-shaping any metal (without loss except for oxidation) or adding metal by forge welding is also vital - so add blacksmithing skills to your collection and you can really do anything you want.
Take a look at Torbjörn Åhman YT channel and see what I mean.... :)
p.s.
Black bear forge; Christ Centered Ironworks and DF - in the shop
Oh - And... how ocould I forget: amazing machinning of clocks and other at Clickspring! And This old Tony - funny and great... and Blondyhacks!!! - all wonderful machining channels :)
Excelent Video
Nice. And then after all this nice work you read the manual and find out that you can make tapers with just turning the head on its base to make tapers too... different way of thinking for the same kind of result ...
Glad you liked the video. As for turning tge head - it is the best way, more rigid, less chatter BUT - in many projects you must turn several tapers or a taper in the middle of all the operations. Turning the head and spindle means you loose concentricity - that is a 30-40min wasted on re-centering the lathe... If you need to repeat this step it will take along time.... Also, the turning the lathe does not give you accurate angles... All in all a compoud rest is very useful.
@@Smallathe Thanks. Yes it takes extra time and it is a very nice project you showed.
@@elvinhaak glad you liked it. Thank you!