This was very well done and is extremely layered with helpful info and facts. I am impressed with the technique and ease with which the crotch wood was split, maybe I won't shy away from these pieces in the future. Thank you Terry!
This is quite possibly the most well put together youtube video I've seen. Very informitive, great use of technical language, and good editing. Thank you for taking the time to teach me about wood splitting. I had no idea how complex a task it could be or how to make the job easier on myself. Cheers
You prolly dont give a shit but if you are stoned like me atm then you can watch pretty much all of the new movies on InstaFlixxer. Have been binge watching with my brother during the lockdown =)
Pine does suck for regular burning, but as a fire starter it's great I use it for kindling for or five slivered pieces with that sap it lights right up and then laying oak kindling pieces then the oak slits on top you'll have a roaring fire in no time
Thank you for the video, Terry. This is an outstanding educational presentation. We had a big ole cherry tree taken down in the yard and I am working on splitting it up for the wood stove. Having a heck of a time as of late and appreciate your instruction. I have my 1st, cheapish slitting maul on the way and cannot wait to use it on this grumpy wood. Where are located in this great state of upstate NY, brother? I am just outside of Rochester! Thanks, again. -Dave
Thanks Dave. Forest-grown cherry tends to be nice and straight and easy to split. Coming from your yard would be a very different matter with a lot of branching. I cringe thinking about it. We're located several miles north of Saratoga Springs.
I have watched several tutorials about wood splitting, but this one is one tutorial that points out almost everything you need to know about it. Congratulations mr. Hale for making such a good video, with practical informations and experiences! Greetings from Europe!
This video reinforced 5 years of self-learning on splitting wood. I wish I had seen this video 5 years ago when we moved to Maine. That first year was a learning experience. Trust me, the video is an easier way to learn. Thanks for a great video!
+Lou Eckert Thanks Lou. Just about everyone has had to learn splitting for themselves. ("It's just swinging an ax. How hard can that be?") I think it's wonderful that UA-cam provides an opportunity for so many things to be learned more quickly than by trial and error or by picking up on difficult-to-notice details.
You certainly can handle that Maul. When I was young I did hear that there were competitions in the use of an axe and a good man can spit a sixpence ( England) every time, Well, this is the first time I have seen such procedure and the fact that you are continuously talking and describing what you are doing and at the same time splitting that wood, the accuracy at which you are doing it shows that you could split a sixpence every time, You keep saying that you are not optimistic , but if this was a competition I would put my money on you. You have a very powerful drive , with all your weight behind it and so accurate on your target, I have never seen this before . Well done, a good man makes it looks so easy.
Thank you for the video! I can hardly wait for the next time my sons are splitting wood out at the cabin. I'm going to be a font of good advice. They'll be going, " Mom! Don't you have a pie to bake or something ?!"
terry have ya ever thought of bucking yer chopping block in at least half , when you contact yer wood it almort looks as ye hitting it to soon, seem you wood gather more power, speed, leverage and over all efficiency . I personally don't use a chopping block for splitting wood but I do for kindling, great wood dissection, thx for the vid
+Buckin' Billy Ray Smith You are correct. I go through a block every two or three years and that one, at 19 inches, was too tall. I was just too lazy to fix it. Its replacement is the flush cut of an oak stump and is only 11 inches tall. The root flare helps to give it a nice stability. The contorted grain ensures I will not split it or have my axe penetrate too deeply. I use a trash can lid to keep the snow and rain off of it to minimze the rate of rotting.
I was reading your comment and wondering who the hell is this guy? Then I looked down and it's Billy Ray....never mind. Be kind my friend. Love your vids.
GREAT core exersise. Watch some of Buckin Billy Rays site. Start with a lighter axe and work up to a 3-4lb splitting axe. Your major hurtle is finding cut (rounds) to split. Look around for people with outdoor wood boilers or just wood piles that need splitting. Firewood suppliers might help you out as well. I would buy boots with a metatarsel covers to learn. I actually cut through a nice pair of boots due to a axe stike, thankfully it didn't make it to my foot. It happens so beware. Chopping blocks do help prevent that issue. You will be amazed at what a workout it is. I find it useful to someone as I split more than I burn at this point. One more point, don't beat the heck out of one peice of wood, move on to another if it's not splitting. Good luck!
Couple of points: Keeping an eye on the target point thru the swing helps greatly w accuracy. (Keep your eye on the ball!) The height of your block is robbing you of momentum and gravity. A lower block would result in much greater downward force vector at contact.
That was my ONLY critique of his advice. I like a chopping block but my favorite ones over the years were only maybe 12in thick (a big twisted crotch from a sycamore or the like)
The shape of your maul head is not optimal. The cheeks are concave and that is why it sticks instead of splitting. Convex cheeks force the wood fibers apart. The splitting block is sitting on the same ground that the wood should be sitting on.
Perfect tutorial. Learned a few things, even after all these years. Thank you. Oh, one thing that finally dawned on me why my accuracy was sort of poor. Was looking at a general target area. Once I'd started to focus on a spot as small as a pinhead that maul would magically strike there! Seems obvious, but a revelation to me. Thanks again.
Very enjoyable tutorial given by somebody who really knows what he is talking about. One observation: in my humble experience, the top of the block to be split should be at around knee height, for the most effective strike. Any higher, and the force being applied to the axe/maul in the "swing" is not at its optimum. Since you are a man that knows the theory and is equally good at doing the job - a rare combination- do you have any thoughts on the matter?
Thanks Mike. One possibility that scares me the most is having the axe hit me in the shins. If your target is knee high, the arc of the axe's swing is already coming back at you when you make contact at knee level. While it is quite rare, I have occasionally had wood split much easier than I had anticipated. When that happens, I definitely want the axe to still be travelling vertically downward to embed in my chopping block, rather than continuing its arc back towards me.
Terry Hale I find that if you are focused on driving the axe through the wood and into the block, as if there was no wood on the block, then the arc of your swing is in little danger of following through into your shin. The arc of my swing tends to go straight down into the block as it is drawn over and down in front of my body. I also find that this is best for transferring more force straight down into the wood. I control the swing so that the axe handle remains parallel to the ground at all times as the axe head is driven into the wood. That being said, my block is high enough that with the axe head embedded and the handle parallel to the ground, I can comfortably grip the handle with knees slightly bent and back fairly straight. Works for me anyway.
Sherpa, I agree that, if you are using a splitting block, your axe will go no further than that block. If I understood Mike correctly, he was stating a preference for having the wood to be split with its top at knee height.
Terry Hale I think that all three of us are on the same wavelength. Terry: any thoughts on doing a video about the engineering principles of the axe/maul swing? Keep up the excellent work.
Thanks, Mike. ...Now that you mention it, I had regretted not pointing out the ergonomic benefit of making sure that, if you place your left shoulder towards the block, your left hand should be above your right hand on the axe handle. If not you have to twist at the waist to get your right shoulder forward and you will tire your back muscles quicker, as well as being at greater risk for a strain. ...I'm actually surprised to see how many people go left foot forward, right hand above or right foot forward, left hand above.
So satisfying when you get a good split. Sadly I seldom get to split nice wood its almost always Leylandii with side limbs the same size as the trunk and I found this video super useful to reference when trying to split it.
Superb instructional video. Looks like a perfect demonstration of technique and experience vs brute force and ignorance! I have just moved from London to the English countryside. Today I've had two very large Ash on our property heavily pruned (due to dieback) and now have a very large pile of wood for the burner. I was dreading the task of chopping it all up, but now I'm actually looking forward to it. Maul and wedges (and headphones, eye protectors and steel-toecap boots) are ready for the weekend! Thank you.
My favorite is Fiskars' Iso Core 8LB Splitting Maul. When you have a round or an especially gnarly round It speaks with a loud voice and the log usually listens, eventually. It isn't especially sharp but that's part of its charm imo. When it doesn't split the log it will usually bounce which imo is preferable to getting stuck. Smaller(around 24") rounds on the other hand will usually explode in 1 hit.
Been using your techniques since I saw your video and love your approach. It's becoming 2nd nature now to read the block in front of me and decide on the most efficient course of action.
Thanks for perfect guide on firewood chopping. I've watched mainly the greenhorn axemen showing off on the screen so far! You are approaching to every knotty stump in very wise way. And this brings positive result: to achieve the goal with minimum effort. If you put an old tire on the stump within operation - less need to bow lifting the refugees...
13:48 Terry: That's why I don't like slabbing. The axe/maul can move violently off to the side, and momentarily you don't have full control of the implement. It won't happen often, but it is not a nice experience when it does. I have had occasion to split elm. The very name sends a shiver through me. It must be the toughest of all wood to split, but the only way to do it effectively is by slabbing: hitting parallel to the rings. It is so hard to remove a piece that you never have the problem of the axe/maul moving off out of control to the side. Anyway, I hope that you are keeping well, Terry.
Stihl makes no mauls. They rebrand Ochsenkopf (Ox-Head) mauls and up the price. Best maul I've found is 3 kg (6.6 lb) head Mueller, from Austria, sold now in US by Highland Woodworking. Excellent head shape really protects handle too. Scandinavian mauls excel in mid-size, straight-grain. Axes are dangerous for bigger than kindling; they either wedge in tight or blow through, going for your legs. Too light besides. Easy way- HF electric-hydraulic.
Greetings from the Emerald Isle,🇮🇪🇮🇪, I use a large truck tyre,with the inner wall removed,place on a level concrete base,and fill with rounds,keeps all the rings compact,and you can split away until you have all your rings split,great back saver, love the video,🇮🇪🇮🇪
Mr. Hale, I'm sorry......the book is titled "Jinkers & Whims: a pictorial history of timber-getting", by Jack Bradshaw. It focuses on Australian draft a animals era logging, but I think any low-technology or "lost technology" designers of timber transporters should study it!
I've been splitting wood for 20 plus years , what great tips ! you covered a lot of area's most people miss with what if's so glad u put together a great video.
Finally found help on what to do about the crotches! I've been trying to attack it from the wrong end. Thank you, but I think my main problem is not leaving it long enough (it was only felled last week and is a monster maple).
Great video. Purchased a Stihl pro splitting axe last week. Lighter than a maul for me. I decided though to buy the Mueller maul too. To have the best of both. I have a lot of wood to split in my backyard.
Same here, I've split a lot of wood in my day and yet learned a lot from your video. Cutting crotch pieces even, and cutting so that the knots are at the top or the bottom are great ideas. Cheers
wohooo finaly someone who knows what hes doing. all the other videos ive seen they dont even use the right Axe for this. they split logs with a Axe to fall trees haha. actualy i realy learnd something on this video. thats rare :) thx for that
In answer to your last remark:"Yes sir, your video is very helpfull and informative." I enjoyed it quite a bit. Also the way you speak and give us your tutorial is very nice to listen to. Thank you so much!! I myself use a Fiskars X27 for all my woodsplitting. An excellent axe, which can do the job like no other. I can fully recommend it to all you logsplitters out there! Groeten uit Holland
@@terryhale9006 Thank you for your response. Good to see you're still around with us. I hope you 'll continue to enjoy your fire ànd collecting and preparing your wood! Groeten uit Holland;-))
It was difficult for me to watch you struggle to lift big pieces of wood onto your splitting block. Then require multiple strikes to split pieces of wood that should split with one quick strike. And why? By raising the wood you are reducing the compliment of gravity, essentially negating the benefit of suing a heavy splitting maul rather than an axe. Also, the maul glancing off the heavy round turn the end coming right back toward your stomach. There is a much easier way. Happy splitting.
Terry its obvious you know how to read the wood. In gnarly pieces that is truly a great benefit. Straight grain just spoils a guy doesn't it. Great video sir.
Black locust, Red oak, White Oak, Rock Maple, Black Cherry, Beech, Hickory, very little pine, fur and hemlock, and various other oak species. Splitting with a double bit axe is not something most people do but I began working with one at 9 or 10. Most of my friends have tried this with little success. I use many of the methods you demonstrate in your video, but I place great care to strike a crack. The axe I use is very old thicker than most at the eye. The stamping is worn away so I don't even know who made it. I'm a carpenter I make all my own tool handles. Here in western Pennsylvania there were many small foundries making all manner of tools. I have many timber framing and carpentry tools that have little or no identifying Mark's. I have yet to make any videos but would like to so I'm studying the process. I have a green ash tree, a very hard leaner killed by ash borer. It's over one of my out buildings I have worked with tree removal companies as a ground man and have felled many trees this one is going to be pulled, but I will probably even be digging around and under the roots to get under the trunk and by a jacking pad I'll alternately pull lift and remove the roots till I get it at an attitude - lean in the right direction. Then ether finish pulling or fell it. I really like your video as it explains the proper hinge angle and geometry. Basically inverting the whole felling cut angle to allow the hinge to bend and hopefully not break. Thank you again.
I've watched about 50 You Tube videos on how to split wood and they all attack nice, round pieces from small to very large. Your video is the only one that addresses the hard issue of dealing with Y shaped, branched out pieces. I have about 20 of those ranging from medium to really large sized oak. Thanks for giving me some hope of dealing with them. Will be a lot of work, but thanks to your tutorial, I now at least have an executable plan of attack.
Thanks, Chuck. I love Oak for a lot of reasons, but as you state, dealing with crotch pieces can be a lot of work. Best of luck to you! I'll hope your ax consistently lands where it needs to. Hoping to hear of your success, even if it takes more than one session.
Thanks for your video-- any tips for removing an axe that's gotten stuck in a round? Swinging the round up over my head & slamming it on the chopping block hasn't helped : ) Be well
Thanks, Al. I have very rarely resorted to the overhead swing of ax and round. I don't recall if I ever got a successful split out of the effort or not. In theory, having the round even briefly overhead introduces the opportunity for the round to let go of the ax and see if it can get a job as a hat. I usually put a foot against the top edge of the round and give the end of the handle a sharp push down. Occasionally I have to try twice. If that ever proved inadequate, I would GENTLY tap the head part way out of the round with another maul while pushing the handle of the stuck ax down. A hard hit could damage the handle right at the edge of the eye.
I use a double block for splitting, with a square cut end, and a 10-15 degree cut on the other end. Put the two diagonal cuts together. Then turn the top block to get thw top surface angle I need. Also, having multiple chopping blocks help me. You get a good rhythm going and you waste less time and energy picking up the maul.
Sounds interesting, but I'm afraid I do not understand. This is one of those situations where a picture would be "worth a thousand words". Is your DK for Denmark? If so, congratulations on your English.
Did your Stihl come with a metal piece that goes over the eye? I noticed you currently DO NOT have one on there. I had bought one earlier this year, (The axe, not the maul) and I broke it off within the first hour of use. I was just curious if you broke yours as well, or if it never came on the maul. Thanks.
You can save yourself a lot of time and bending over to pick up and replace wood around 4:26 and especially 8:28 with some minor cuts around the edges before taking a second blow down the center. 13:28, half the slab while it's still strung up by the main log and save yourself double! You won't have to pick the slab back up and the outward release won't knock your log off. I'm going to go split now : ).
The amount of times I've given that first swing with an identical "WOW" at how hard the wood was. 8 min mark approx. Lol. Awesome vid, going chopping in the am.
I have no familiarity with fig wood. Please let me know if there is anything special about it. I assume what you have is really contorted and knotty as most fruit trees are regularly pruned. Regardless, best of luck to you.
Good point about having an uneven stump. I lived in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont and it was easiest to split when it was 0F or less, since any water in the wood would be frozen and it would split very easily.
Your chopping block is a little too tall, you lose momentum with the maul on the downswing. Also on tough large tough pieces, I plunge cut a few inches deep one on either side. In place each wedge in the cut. Alternating hits with the Sledge or back of the mall. Works real good
Agreed. I go through chopping blocks yearly. They are selected based on their resistance to being split. That one had good toughness, but was taller than desired. In the second splitting video, You will see that I use a similar approach, but find it quicker to start the wedges in the fissures from ax strikes.
Hard work no doubt ..I tried chopping wood the other day my goodness I was rusty ..I used to do it with no problems but that day I wasn't doing to good 😂 Absolutely embarrassing...
I'm trying to split some gum trees I have recently had chain sawed around the place but the axe keeps bouncing off like your first couple of hits on that sugar maple, the difference being it won't split no matter how many times I have hit it. No wonder they made rail lines out of the stuff years ago. Brand new axe as well, disappointed because I thought I had loads of free firewood to chop up. Is it better to let it dry or easier when wet?
+oo0Spyder0oo There is a lot of variation among the species. Unfortunately. I have no experience to offer on gums. Condolences on your understandable disappointment with the free wood.
First video Ive seen that gives different tips for different wood types. It really helps to know the material youre working with. Wish I had some tips for gum and red pine... Down south trees. :)
That would be a learning experience for me. I do know that Southern Catalpa is the most difficult wood to split that I ever encountered. On my first swing, I almost got hit in the forehead when the axe bounced straight back up. About a 95% restitution factor! Something like 25 strong swings left a shallow indentation where several of the criss-crossed fibers were cut. A couple of other pieces finally yielded. Overall, it was an amazing experience.
+Erin Miller Thanks Erin. Actually, I grew up overseas. No matter where I go, people's reaction to my accent is, "You're not from around here, are you?" : )
Thanks, Reynout. Yes, That chopping block was too tall. While working with shorter rounds does make them easier to split, I am also concerned about loading my wood stove. If the pieces are too short, the fire will put out less heat and will have to be loaded more frequently.
Maybe the bottom up approach is more relevant for as I often just use a double bit axe and hit cracks it's they way I've spit wood 50 years. I do have a maul and wedges but for the most part the axe does the job.
You are right a good chopping block is a must. Pine wood in my area is the same, hardly any grain to guide the split direction and a lot of pitch.If I have a piece of wood with a lot of knots I lay it down on the chopping block and rip it with my 24" Stihl saw.
I had one of those in maple last night. I've been clearing a View West and now have three Adirondack winters of split firewood stacked in my wood shed and basement. I have six more full cords cut and begging for my ax. After I assaulted that piece of maple fifteen times, I suddenly thought, "What am I doing???" and tossed it into the woods to eventually replenish the soil.
Very helpful and interesting, especially the information on how to deal with a 'crotch', and the technique for 'slabbing'. Thank you!
This was very well done and is extremely layered with helpful info and facts. I am impressed with the technique and ease with which the crotch wood was split, maybe I won't shy away from these pieces in the future. Thank you Terry!
...and thanks for the positive feedback.
This is quite possibly the most well put together youtube video I've seen. Very informitive, great use of technical language, and good editing. Thank you for taking the time to teach me about wood splitting. I had no idea how complex a task it could be or how to make the job easier on myself. Cheers
+randall barr Thanks Randall. Blushing.
I heartily agree with you Randall. No waffle and lots of info.
You prolly dont give a shit but if you are stoned like me atm then you can watch pretty much all of the new movies on InstaFlixxer. Have been binge watching with my brother during the lockdown =)
@Grayson Kade Yup, been watching on instaflixxer for months myself :)
You don’t get out much do you?
One of the BEST videos I'v Seen. I would loose the chopping block and stay with the tree. Less moving the logs around.My opinion..
Thanks Paul. I have done that a few times.
Hell yeah man. Excellent video.
k thanks have to check it out.i got 2 of them now.4 pounders.
Pine does suck for regular burning, but as a fire starter it's great I use it for kindling for or five slivered pieces with that sap it lights right up and then laying oak kindling pieces then the oak slits on top you'll have a roaring fire in no time
Definitely!
I have split a lot of wood but still learned a few things thanks for the video
Thanks. Glad to hear it.
@@terryhale9006. Mebnll KB of e ds good way no no I'm you ww
Thank you for the video, Terry. This is an outstanding educational presentation. We had a big ole cherry tree taken down in the yard and I am working on splitting it up for the wood stove. Having a heck of a time as of late and appreciate your instruction. I have my 1st, cheapish slitting maul on the way and cannot wait to use it on this grumpy wood. Where are located in this great state of upstate NY, brother? I am just outside of Rochester! Thanks, again.
-Dave
Thanks Dave. Forest-grown cherry tends to be nice and straight and easy to split. Coming from your yard would be a very different matter with a lot of branching. I cringe thinking about it.
We're located several miles north of Saratoga Springs.
I have watched several tutorials about wood splitting, but this one is one tutorial that points out almost everything you need to know about it. Congratulations mr. Hale for making such a good video, with practical informations and experiences!
Greetings from Europe!
Thank you, Matej!
This is by far the best one i have come across.
Thanks,
This video reinforced 5 years of self-learning on splitting wood. I wish I had seen this video 5 years ago when we moved to Maine. That first year was a learning experience. Trust me, the video is an easier way to learn. Thanks for a great video!
+Lou Eckert Thanks Lou. Just about everyone has had to learn splitting for themselves. ("It's just swinging an ax. How hard can that be?") I think it's wonderful that UA-cam provides an opportunity for so many things to be learned more quickly than by trial and error or by picking up on difficult-to-notice details.
You certainly can handle that Maul. When I was young I did hear that there were competitions in the use of an axe and a good man can spit a sixpence ( England) every time,
Well, this is the first time I have seen such procedure and the fact that you are continuously talking and describing what you are doing and at the same time splitting that wood, the accuracy at which you are doing it shows that you could split a sixpence every time, You keep saying that you are not optimistic , but if this was a competition I would put my money on you. You have a very powerful drive , with all your weight behind it and so accurate on your target, I have never seen this before . Well done, a good man makes it looks so easy.
jeez guy just ask him to marry you lol
Wow very accurate I'm impressed
13:44 "That was a bad hit"
Apparently you've never seen anyone like me trying to split wood.
Ha, Ha. No, I actually do remember me 55 years ago.
bury your chopping block about 4-6in; it helps prevent the block from bouncing (which absorbs part of your blow)
Definitely a good idea if your soil isn't already hard packed.
Thank you for the video! I can hardly wait for the next time my sons are splitting wood out at the cabin. I'm going to be a font of good advice. They'll be going, " Mom! Don't you have a pie to bake or something ?!"
+Betty Swerhone Ha Ha Ha. I can see it.
Simply the best. I learned a lot from it.
Great video! I've incorporated these suggestions into my splitting.
I'm flattered. Hope they work for you.
terry have ya ever thought of bucking yer chopping block in at least half , when you contact yer wood it almort looks as ye hitting it to soon, seem you wood gather more power, speed, leverage and over all efficiency . I personally don't use a chopping block for splitting wood but I do for kindling, great wood dissection, thx for the vid
+Buckin' Billy Ray Smith You are correct. I go through a block every two or three years and that one, at 19 inches, was too tall. I was just too lazy to fix it. Its replacement is the flush cut of an oak stump and is only 11 inches tall. The root flare helps to give it a nice stability. The contorted grain ensures I will not split it or have my axe penetrate too deeply. I use a trash can lid to keep the snow and rain off of it to minimze the rate of rotting.
I was reading your comment and wondering who the hell is this guy? Then I looked down and it's Billy Ray....never mind. Be kind my friend. Love your vids.
The best tip vid I´ve seen. I find nothing to disagree. Great job
Have been looking everywhere trying to buy a powder wedge . I am finally having 1 made by a machinist..Wonderfull tool.
I want to learn how to chop wood now...not that it'd be beneficial to my community in any form, but it'd be a nice hobby to have.
I'm a city girl (:
It does give you a tangible feeling of accomplishment when you look at what you've done.
Brooke, how many have ya got on the ground?
GREAT core exersise. Watch some of Buckin Billy Rays site. Start with a lighter axe and work up to a 3-4lb splitting axe. Your major hurtle is finding cut (rounds) to split. Look around for people with outdoor wood boilers or just wood piles that need splitting. Firewood suppliers might help you out as well. I would buy boots with a metatarsel covers
to learn. I actually cut through a nice pair of boots due to a axe stike, thankfully it didn't make it to my foot. It happens so beware. Chopping blocks do help prevent that issue. You will be amazed at what a workout it is. I find it useful to someone as I split more than I burn at this point. One more point, don't beat the heck out of one peice of wood, move on to another if it's not splitting. Good luck!
Thank you for making this video. Great information and advice.
Thanks Lewis.
4 years after originally published----still providing great information. Thanks,
There are many wood splitting videos on youtube, and this is one of the best. Thanks for sharing your experience.
And I appreciate your comment. Thanks.
Great vid!
+hoshnasi Thanks Hosh!
Couple of points:
Keeping an eye on the target point thru the swing helps greatly w accuracy. (Keep your eye on the ball!)
The height of your block is robbing you of momentum and gravity. A lower block would result in much greater downward force vector at contact.
That was my ONLY critique of his advice. I like a chopping block but my favorite ones over the years were only maybe 12in thick (a big twisted crotch from a sycamore or the like)
The shape of your maul head is not optimal. The cheeks are concave and that is why it sticks instead of splitting. Convex cheeks force the wood fibers apart.
The splitting block is sitting on the same ground that the wood should be sitting on.
Your eyes deceive you. None of those has concave cheeks.
Very helpful, thank you.
+Keriama Krueger Thanks Keriama.
I never tought an upstate New Yorker could teach a guy from the darkest forests of Norway so much about wood😅 God bless you. Great video
Thanks. I'm sure I could learn some valuable things from you.
Perfect tutorial. Learned a few things, even after all these years. Thank you. Oh, one thing that finally dawned on me why my accuracy was sort of poor. Was looking at a general target area. Once I'd started to focus on a spot as small as a pinhead that maul would magically strike there! Seems obvious, but a revelation to me. Thanks again.
Cool! The maul was just waiting for a precise mission assignment. Glad to hear it.
Very enjoyable tutorial given by somebody who really knows what he is talking about. One observation: in my humble experience, the top of the block to be split should be at around knee height, for the most effective strike. Any higher, and the force being applied to the axe/maul in the "swing" is not at its optimum. Since you are a man that knows the theory and is equally good at doing the job - a rare combination- do you have any thoughts on the matter?
Thanks Mike.
One possibility that scares me the most is having the axe hit me in the shins. If your target is knee high, the arc of the axe's swing is already coming back at you when you make contact at knee level. While it is quite rare, I have occasionally had wood split much easier than I had anticipated. When that happens, I definitely want the axe to still be travelling vertically downward to embed in my chopping block, rather than continuing its arc back towards me.
Terry Hale I find that if you are focused on driving the axe through the wood and into the block, as if there was no wood on the block, then the arc of your swing is in little danger of following through into your shin. The arc of my swing tends to go straight down into the block as it is drawn over and down in front of my body. I also find that this is best for transferring more force straight down into the wood. I control the swing so that the axe handle remains parallel to the ground at all times as the axe head is driven into the wood. That being said, my block is high enough that with the axe head embedded and the handle parallel to the ground, I can comfortably grip the handle with knees slightly bent and back fairly straight. Works for me anyway.
Sherpa,
I agree that, if you are using a splitting block, your axe will go no further than that block. If I understood Mike correctly, he was stating a preference for having the wood to be split with its top at knee height.
Terry Hale I think that all three of us are on the same wavelength. Terry: any thoughts on doing a video about the engineering principles of the axe/maul swing? Keep up the excellent work.
Thanks, Mike.
...Now that you mention it, I had regretted not pointing out the ergonomic benefit of making sure that, if you place your left shoulder towards the block, your left hand should be above your right hand on the axe handle. If not you have to twist at the waist to get your right shoulder forward and you will tire your back muscles quicker, as well as being at greater risk for a strain.
...I'm actually surprised to see how many people go left foot forward, right hand above or right foot forward, left hand above.
This very helpful. Thank you so much.
So satisfying when you get a good split. Sadly I seldom get to split nice wood its almost always Leylandii with side limbs the same size as the trunk and I found this video super useful to reference when trying to split it.
Superb instructional video. Looks like a perfect demonstration of technique and experience vs brute force and ignorance! I have just moved from London to the English countryside. Today I've had two very large Ash on our property heavily pruned (due to dieback) and now have a very large pile of wood for the burner. I was dreading the task of chopping it all up, but now I'm actually looking forward to it. Maul and wedges (and headphones, eye protectors and steel-toecap boots) are ready for the weekend! Thank you.
Excellent! I'll hope your Ash splits as easily as what we have here.
Best wood splitting instructional on the internets!
Good to know. Thanks for sharing your techniques.
Interesting...
My favorite is Fiskars' Iso Core 8LB Splitting Maul. When you have a round or an especially gnarly round It speaks with a loud voice and the log usually listens, eventually. It isn't especially sharp but that's part of its charm imo. When it doesn't split the log it will usually bounce which imo is preferable to getting stuck. Smaller(around 24") rounds on the other hand will usually explode in 1 hit.
Might have to try one of those. I've been impressed with the Fiskars line. Thanks for your input.
Been using your techniques since I saw your video and love your approach. It's becoming 2nd nature now to read the block in front of me and decide on the most efficient course of action.
+Ben Griswold Great! Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for perfect guide on firewood chopping. I've watched mainly the greenhorn axemen showing off on the screen so far! You are approaching to every knotty stump in very wise way. And this brings positive result: to achieve the goal with minimum effort. If you put an old tire on the stump within operation - less need to bow lifting the refugees...
Thanks Adam. Each day, I'm giving more consideration to adding a tire.
Terry Hale Never think re-tire - I'm 60now and feel still stronger splitter now thanks to watching your YT films:-)
Great Tutorial.
Been splitting wood all my life and just spent a hard day splitting wet, green fir. Wish I would've watched this earlier- I learned a lot!
Thanks, Collin. On the good side, your wood should dry a lot quicker now.
13:48 Terry: That's why I don't like slabbing. The axe/maul can move violently off to the side, and momentarily you don't have full control of the implement. It won't happen often, but it is not a nice experience when it does. I have had occasion to split elm. The very name sends a shiver through me. It must be the toughest of all wood to split, but the only way to do it effectively is by slabbing: hitting parallel to the rings. It is so hard to remove a piece that you never have the problem of the axe/maul moving off out of control to the side. Anyway, I hope that you are keeping well, Terry.
a tall chopping block takes away the best part of your swing, i never use one myself.
Stihl makes no mauls. They rebrand Ochsenkopf (Ox-Head) mauls and up the price. Best maul I've found is 3 kg (6.6 lb) head Mueller, from Austria, sold now in US by Highland Woodworking. Excellent head shape really protects handle too. Scandinavian mauls excel in mid-size, straight-grain. Axes are dangerous for bigger than kindling; they either wedge in tight or blow through, going for your legs. Too light besides. Easy way- HF electric-hydraulic.
Greetings from the Emerald Isle,🇮🇪🇮🇪, I use a large truck tyre,with the inner wall removed,place on a level concrete base,and fill with rounds,keeps all the rings compact,and you can split away until you have all your rings split,great back saver, love the video,🇮🇪🇮🇪
Mr. Hale, I'm sorry......the book is titled "Jinkers & Whims: a pictorial history of
timber-getting", by Jack Bradshaw. It focuses on Australian draft a animals era logging, but I think any low-technology or "lost technology" designers of timber transporters should study it!
I've been splitting wood for 20 plus years , what great tips ! you covered a lot of area's most people miss with what if's so glad u put together a great video.
Thanks much Joe!
Finally found help on what to do about the crotches! I've been trying to attack it from the wrong end. Thank you, but I think my main problem is not leaving it long enough (it was only felled last week and is a monster maple).
You certainly know your stuff Terry. you make some serious power with that mawl. Appreciate you sharing. God Bless and Merry Christmas
Great video. Purchased a Stihl pro splitting axe last week. Lighter than a maul for me. I decided though to buy the Mueller maul too. To have the best of both. I have a lot of wood to split in my backyard.
love the tip on keeping knots at the ends when bucking. thanks!
Same here, I've split a lot of wood in my day and yet learned a lot from your video. Cutting crotch pieces even, and cutting so that the knots are at the top or the bottom are great ideas.
Cheers
Thanks! To you as well.
this was an extraordinarily well thought, well produced, and informative video. Thank you so much for this.
...and thank you for your appreciation.
I've gotten better over time, but I've cracked too many handles to get a wooden-handled maul, especially one that costs $90.
buy a splitter. Have a real nice day. Ladies: PERFECT birthday present.
Thanks for posting
Made me veeeeery sleeeepy😔
wohooo finaly someone who knows what hes doing. all the other videos ive seen they dont even use the right Axe for this. they split logs with a Axe to fall trees haha. actualy i realy learnd something on this video. thats rare :) thx for that
Amazing what 50 years experience can do...thanks for sharing
Hey thank you!
And look at this -> ua-cam.com/video/1oHVE6DeIlc/v-deo.html you will love this tipp ;)
Splitting a crotch was the best example for me! Those things are brutal!
around 6min when u said u werent optimistic and then u split it they way u said it would - i said "oh s***" out loud!
When I cut wood I put 1 old care tire around the blok of wood so there is no need to pick up the pieces of the ground.
In answer to your last remark:"Yes sir, your video is very helpfull and informative." I enjoyed it quite a bit. Also the way you speak and give us your tutorial is very nice to listen to. Thank you so much!!
I myself use a Fiskars X27 for all my woodsplitting. An excellent axe, which can do the job like no other. I can fully recommend it to all you logsplitters out there! Groeten uit Holland
Thanks much, Martin!
@@terryhale9006 Thank you for your response. Good to see you're still around with us. I hope you 'll continue to enjoy your fire ànd collecting and preparing your wood! Groeten uit Holland;-))
Nicely executed Terry. You made my project go easily with that valuable info.
Glad to hear that!
You are amazing! This is some deep knowledge and very helpful for simplyfying a hard job.
Thanks Lerch. Just an old man trying to pass on some of what he's learned while he still can. Best to you.
Nice work. Appreciate watching your videos.
I'll remember some of these tips for the rest of my life. Thank you
Thanks. I'll hope it's a long one.
Great video Terry. Your a good axe man. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you, excellent tutorial, you really know your stuff. Gotta split!
(Snicker...)
Quit talking start splitting you don't know what your talking about
weak swing, lol. don't need a block with a stronger swing
It was difficult for me to watch you struggle to lift big pieces of wood onto your splitting block. Then require multiple strikes to split pieces of wood that should split with one quick strike. And why? By raising the wood you are reducing the compliment of gravity, essentially negating the benefit of suing a heavy splitting maul rather than an axe. Also, the maul glancing off the heavy round turn the end coming right back toward your stomach. There is a much easier way. Happy splitting.
Stomach?
Terry its obvious you know how to read the wood. In gnarly pieces that is truly a great benefit. Straight grain just spoils a guy doesn't it. Great video sir.
LOVE straight grain!
Excellent description. Thanks!
Black locust, Red oak, White Oak, Rock Maple, Black Cherry, Beech, Hickory, very little pine, fur and hemlock, and various other oak species. Splitting with a double bit axe is not something most people do but I began working with one at 9 or 10. Most of my friends have tried this with little success. I use many of the methods you demonstrate in your video, but I place great care to strike a crack. The axe I use is very old thicker than most at the eye. The stamping is worn away so I don't even know who made it. I'm a carpenter I make all my own tool handles. Here in western Pennsylvania there were many small foundries making all manner of tools. I have many timber framing and carpentry tools that have little or no identifying Mark's. I have yet to make any videos but would like to so I'm studying the process. I have a green ash tree, a very hard leaner killed by ash borer. It's over one of my out buildings I have worked with tree removal companies as a ground man and have felled many trees this one is going to be pulled, but I will probably even be digging around and under the roots to get under the trunk and by a jacking pad I'll alternately pull lift and remove the roots till I get it at an attitude - lean in the right direction. Then ether finish pulling or fell it. I really like your video as it explains the proper hinge angle and geometry. Basically inverting the whole felling cut angle to allow the hinge to bend and hopefully not break. Thank you again.
Fairly similar, but nary a locust here. Be well.
I've watched about 50 You Tube videos on how to split wood and they all attack nice, round pieces from small to very large. Your video is the only one that addresses the hard issue of dealing with Y shaped, branched out pieces. I have about 20 of those ranging from medium to really large sized oak. Thanks for giving me some hope of dealing with them. Will be a lot of work, but thanks to your tutorial, I now at least have an executable plan of attack.
Thanks, Chuck. I love Oak for a lot of reasons, but as you state, dealing with crotch pieces can be a lot of work. Best of luck to you! I'll hope your ax consistently lands where it needs to. Hoping to hear of your success, even if it takes more than one session.
Thanks for your video-- any tips for removing an axe that's gotten stuck in a round? Swinging the round up over my head & slamming it on the chopping block hasn't helped : ) Be well
Thanks, Al. I have very rarely resorted to the overhead swing of ax and round. I don't recall if I ever got a successful split out of the effort or not. In theory, having the round even briefly overhead introduces the opportunity for the round to let go of the ax and see if it can get a job as a hat.
I usually put a foot against the top edge of the round and give the end of the handle a sharp push down. Occasionally I have to try twice. If that ever proved inadequate, I would GENTLY tap the head part way out of the round with another maul while pushing the handle of the stuck ax down. A hard hit could damage the handle right at the edge of the eye.
This was super informative ! I learned a lot! Thanks !
+catyear75 I'm so glad. Thanks!
I use a double block for splitting, with a square cut end, and a 10-15 degree cut on the other end. Put the two diagonal cuts together. Then turn the top block to get thw top surface angle I need. Also, having multiple chopping blocks help me. You get a good rhythm going and you waste less time and energy picking up the maul.
Sounds interesting, but I'm afraid I do not understand. This is one of those situations where a picture would be "worth a thousand words". Is your DK for Denmark? If so, congratulations on your English.
Did your Stihl come with a metal piece that goes over the eye? I noticed you currently DO NOT have one on there. I had bought one earlier this year, (The axe, not the maul) and I broke it off within the first hour of use. I was just curious if you broke yours as well, or if it never came on the maul. Thanks.
Kevin, Mine did not come with such a metal piece. Sorry it didn't work for you.
You can save yourself a lot of time and bending over to pick up and replace wood around 4:26 and especially 8:28 with some minor cuts around the edges before taking a second blow down the center. 13:28, half the slab while it's still strung up by the main log and save yourself double! You won't have to pick the slab back up and the outward release won't knock your log off.
I'm going to go split now : ).
+bnumber8 Thanks B. I do often do that. I should have included it as a tip. I find it particularly useful when the two halves are well connected.
The amount of times I've given that first swing with an identical "WOW" at how hard the wood was. 8 min mark approx. Lol. Awesome vid, going chopping in the am.
Made me chuckle. I'll listen for you as I will be doing the same.
👏👏👏 You must have been looking at my new wood pile of a fig tree. I was going to cheat/whimp out and used the chain saw on the difficult parts. 👍👍👍
I have no familiarity with fig wood. Please let me know if there is anything special about it. I assume what you have is really contorted and knotty as most fruit trees are regularly pruned. Regardless, best of luck to you.
Good point about having an uneven stump. I lived in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont and it was easiest to split when it was 0F or less, since any water in the wood would be frozen and it would split very easily.
There's a lot to be said for brittle wood.
Your chopping block is a little too tall, you lose momentum with the maul on the downswing. Also on tough large tough pieces, I plunge cut a few inches deep one on either side. In place each wedge in the cut. Alternating hits with the Sledge or back of the mall. Works real good
Agreed. I go through chopping blocks yearly. They are selected based on their resistance to being split. That one had good toughness, but was taller than desired.
In the second splitting video, You will see that I use a similar approach, but find it quicker to start the wedges in the fissures from ax strikes.
Really good video. I'm about to split wood with a maul having never done it before so this was very helpful. Thanks.
Thanks, Darren. Be sure to wear gloves!
Hard work no doubt ..I tried chopping wood the other day my goodness I was rusty ..I used to do it with no problems but that day I wasn't doing to good 😂 Absolutely embarrassing...
While they say one never forgets how to ride a bicycle, there are plenty of activities that penalize long gaps in practice.
I'm trying to split some gum trees I have recently had chain sawed around the place but the axe keeps bouncing off like your first couple of hits on that sugar maple, the difference being it won't split no matter how many times I have hit it. No wonder they made rail lines out of the stuff years ago. Brand new axe as well, disappointed because I thought I had loads of free firewood to chop up. Is it better to let it dry or easier when wet?
+oo0Spyder0oo There is a lot of variation among the species. Unfortunately. I have no experience to offer on gums. Condolences on your understandable disappointment with the free wood.
First video Ive seen that gives different tips for different wood types. It really helps to know the material youre working with. Wish I had some tips for gum and red pine... Down south trees. :)
That would be a learning experience for me. I do know that Southern Catalpa is the most difficult wood to split that I ever encountered. On my first swing, I almost got hit in the forehead when the axe bounced straight back up. About a 95% restitution factor! Something like 25 strong swings left a shallow indentation where several of the criss-crossed fibers were cut. A couple of other pieces finally yielded. Overall, it was an amazing experience.
Wow! This guy is really something.
Upstate NY and South Georgia folks very similar except for the accent. Great job!!
+Erin Miller Thanks Erin.
Actually, I grew up overseas. No matter where I go, people's reaction to my accent is, "You're not from around here, are you?" : )
this guy makes it look so easy.
Great tutorial. Thank you very much.
Fabulous! To get even better at it...
1 Reduce height chopping block
2 Use chainsaw to reduce length of log so that you only need to hit once...
Thanks, Reynout. Yes, That chopping block was too tall. While working with shorter rounds does make them easier to split, I am also concerned about loading my wood stove. If the pieces are too short, the fire will put out less heat and will have to be loaded more frequently.
Maybe the bottom up approach is more relevant for as I often just use a double bit axe and hit cracks it's they way I've spit wood 50 years. I do have a maul and wedges but for the most part the axe does the job.
Just out of curiosity, What species are you typically splitting?
You are right a good chopping block is a must. Pine wood in my area is the same, hardly any grain to guide the split direction and a lot of pitch.If I have a piece of wood with a lot of knots I lay it down on the chopping block and rip it with my 24" Stihl saw.
I had one of those in maple last night. I've been clearing a View West and now have three Adirondack winters of split firewood stacked in my wood shed and basement. I have six more full cords cut and begging for my ax. After I assaulted that piece of maple fifteen times, I suddenly thought, "What am I doing???" and tossed it into the woods to eventually replenish the soil.