have you considered the first setup with the nozzles on one manifold facing north and the others facing south? Then you would generate a circular circulation pattern. I suspect the low oxygen away from the nozzles is partially from the rotting sediment consuming oxygen from the water.
that would be a cool idea. Probably could alternate them from one set to another and create some large whirlpools (I guess we could say circulating around a vertical axis). I found with the 20' set along the edge, the water does a fairly good job circulating somewhat around a horizontal plane, but it isn't perfect since the intake point is fairly far away. (hopefully that makes some sense!) I'm hoping the greater movement of water in the system will prevent more solids from settling out in the DWC so they will eventually get caught in the radial flow settler downstream....
I do something like that. I have 6 venturis around the edges of a 3.6m bed. 1 in each corner and 1 each in the middle of the long sides. All are angled clockwise. It works well.
You could harvest all the sediment and use it in dirt beds for fertilizer. Also, aeration of the tank keeps algae from growing. Algae doesn't like oxygen!
Good idea. To increase circulation you might try putting an extension in front of the pumps that puts the nozzles at the other end of the bed but turn one pump and nozzle system around. So water is pumped to the opposite end of the tank to be jetted at the other pump to be pumped back up the other end in a continuous cycle. The 2 halves of the tank would have the flow going across them in opposite directions. Another possibility would be to position the pumps in the middle of the tank (also on the walls) with one nozzle hose going to one end corner while the one on the other side goes to the opposite corner. It would be a similar effect with water going in opposite directions in each end of the tank. Cross the streams. And check out Speece cones for the most efficient Venturi effect. Thanks for the vid.
Nice setup! FWIW re sediment, I was talking with Dr. Savidov a few years ago, and he talked about how they had experimented with using jets of water to keep the sediment cleaned off. He started with a 2” pipe drilled with a line of 1/4” holes (I think). But when he pointed the holes downstream, the sediment drifted upstream. So he pointed the holes upstream and the sediment was pushed further downstream. The reason (it seems) is that the injection of the water increases the pressure, so the rest of the water and the sediment in the water tries to go to the lower pressure (upstream, in the case of the jets pointing downstream). Just a thought on how you could think about periodically encouraging your sediment to evacuate the tank, without disrupting your plant growth.
Really cool build. Doing a lot in line is smart thinking. I'm currently experimenting with combining a venturi with a vortex chamber to try to keep the bubbles in there a little longer to increase their ability to dissolve into the water. Great work! Thanks again for collecting and showing us your data!
None yet. When I've completed them I'll post an update with Rob's permission. I'd like to post some videos about the process in the style that rob does.
@@everennui1 No. The oxygen gets into the water through diffusion. The longer a bubble is underwater, the more the gas within that bubble will diffuse into the water. The smaller the bubbles, the longer it takes to get to the surface, and thus more oxygenation occurs. If you put bubbles in a vortex, the force of the spinning water keeps the bubbles submerged for longer. Also, as the bubbles bump into each other and bounce off of each other in extreme turbulence, they get smaller and smaller, speeding up the oxygenation.
To be fair though, the disturbance of bubbles rising to the surface of the water, breaking the surface tension when they pop, does also oxygenate water, yes.
Suggestion for easy cleaning of your bed... Get a 1/2hp dirty water sump, I got mine from harbor freight for $68. Put it at one end with the hose laying over a large foam rubber pad to collect the debris, Squeegee everything towards that end and let the clean water run back into the bed. I own a pool company and we use this method on extremely dirty pools to keep it out of the sand filter... Might take 2-3 cycles but you can leave the pump running over night, as long as the foam doesn't fill up with debris it will continue to clean all night. Then when the foam is full, take it to the garden, turn it dirty side down and run water through it to feed to garden or yard...
This is awesome, but I wonder what the results would be with an underwater oxygen battery? Take a 3 inch PVC pipe, cut it in half, suspend the half pipe upside down so that it traps air. If atmosphere is 21% oxygen and water is 1% oygen, would the additional contact diffuse slower with less energy?
How does the aeration compare between airstones and venturi tubes? I'd love to see how DO compares instead of DO levels between no aeration and venturi. If Venturi is cheaper and more efficient, it seems like a no brainer to switch.
I cut a lot out of the video but part of it was showing a section where I have some air stones. They can aerate about the same area, but the air pump is far more expensive, cost more to run, and the tubing gets scattered around as things tug on them (mainly from me moving rafts around). Plus I still get solids settling right around the stones. I've also had stones pop off their tubes and then the majority of the air comes out of the broken tube because there is less resistance at the broken point. What I really like about the ventri setup is how much better the water is circulated, helping to keep the solids in the water column (later to get caught in the RFS). Plus the O2 and nutrients can get circulated better too. Overall, the algae isn't a problem. I only start to see some when I remove my rafts for experiments like this. ;-)
Use aquarium plants. They can help anchor the sediment to the bottom, help condition and clean your water. You can even collect local species like Hornwort and then put it in your system.
Tap/Thread is a much better idea than glue. It looks like another system on the other side would do a good job of moving the water but do you want the whole 100' tank to circulate or run from inlet to outlet?
looks nice . do not down size the piping . instead upsize it . if the pump calls for an inch and a half go to two inch . this will give you more flow . instead of ending the piping connect all end so they continue. this will allow you to use less pumps and get more flow per pump used .
I follow your channel from the beginning and I really like all your projects ... I would like to offer you a suggestion that could be an interesting (I guess..) experiment for the system developed by you based on the Venturi tube .. You can practice a little the hole on the inlet pipe of the water pump, in which you can insert a thin hose through which the water pump sucks a very small amount of air. In this way, the respective air will be nebulized in the pump rotor without the risk of operation in cavitation mode. With this simple addition I believe that you will get air microbubbles that will improve aeration and at the same time you will have movement in the body of water that you want. Plus, this little innovation could be the theme of a new video that I would be very curious to see him ... I presume that you will get that remaining fog of air in tha water wich make aeration much more efficient...
I've seen this done on some pumps and there is a company that sells a pump that has this. The main problem is that you can get cavitation around the impeller and it usually wears the impeller down, or in some cases will ruin the bearings in the pump from the potential vibration.
I already have a new design for it....doubled the air flow through it. Of course it's a more complicated print. ;-) I think I understand your clamp statement....sort of like the little hose clamps on a small gas engine?
I was in the middle of building something very similar for my DWC buckets. The youtube video I was watching ended and this video auto played. Very fortuitous. I love the ingenuity and experimentation. The second air rail as opposed to just having a tube sticking straight up off each nozzle is brilliant. If you only used the first 10 nozzles do you think you could get away with 1 inch pipe? And with either 1" or the 1.5" you used here, would you say you had equal flow at each nozzle? What pump size would you recommend for 10 nozzles?
Check out my design tool that will let you size a system with various pipe sizes. With 10 nozzles you would want the 1.5" pipe. infusinator.com/products/Infusinator/Design.aspx The Jabeo DCT-8000 pump would be a good choice to run 10 nozzles.
What if you put one system in the center of the bed a pump 4"x10' pipe, 3"x10' pipe, 2"x10' pipe, 1"x10' pipe, 1/2"x10' pipe, 1/2"x10' pipe, 1"x10' pipe, 2'x10' pipe, 3"x10' pipe, 4"x10' pipe, pump with an air manifold the entire 100 foot length with nozzles pointed in both directions toward the sides of the beds? Would you get uniform oxygen saturation? Would you get uniform pressure?
Putting fish in the water may help keeping it cleaner and give plants natural nutrients.After seeing your graphs I thought nasals could be 4 feet apart.
I cut a whole section out of the video where I talked about my diaphragm air pump since I felt this video was already too long! I believe it runs at about 100 watts vs the 125 of this setup. It aerates a smaller area of the bed, plus I have a bunch of air stones and tubing all over the place. The air stones clog over time or if a tubing comes apart, the majority of the air comes through that one break. IMO the venturi is a better option since they don't clog (unless the pump sucks up a piece of debris), there's no tubing to mess with, and the overall material cost is probably 1/3 of an air pump and stones.
23*C isn't too high therefore 80% saturation isn't a big thingy. I would suggest using only one pump and one venturi feeding into a vertical pipe (from the top) with increasing diameters (to the bottom) and exiting with the same diameter you came in with. Then distribute it through out the raft as you did - the result will be the creation of very small bubbles which have a thousand times more surface are for the same air therefore increasing solubility big time. I managed to have 83% oxygen saturation at a water temperature of 35*C. If you want I can send you a video I did showing you this. Let me know.
When you said distribute it through out the raft did you mean with more venturi nozzles or normal pipe opening? Also what you are describing is basically an oxygen cone right? Would appreciate more info and the video you talked about Thanks
ever thought of whether it improves our oxygen metabolism too by drinking it? some studies show that it helps against cancer. treating drinking water for cattle and birds may prevent disease spreading like birdflu.
Also, what kind of resin do you use for your prints? I was under the impression that most 3d printable resins aren't fish or food safe. Clearly I've been misinformed.
you are probably correct. I have had problems with some of these degrading when under water after a month or so. I've been looking for something with better curing properties.
@@Bigelowbrook Thank you for your reply. I was thinking about 900mm deep inside a fish tank. Did you btw check how much oxygen difference there was at the opposite location before and after the Venturi was installed?
I only checked a few meters away. I didn't have the time to test the far end of the bed. It takes around 3 hours for the water to work it's way down to that side.
I would suspend the system higher in the water and point it down.... closer to the surface the more air it will pull.. from my experience with power heads on fish tanks
These are only set down about 10 inches so technically it does have to work a little harder. If I did set them near the surface, I would be concerned about the roots of the plants getting caught in the piping as the rafts are pushed by.
@@Bigelowbrook The back pressure is what I'm worried about. In my case there is no tank into which the pump is pushing. I just have a vertical pipe through which I need to pump water. So I'm worried a venturi at the bottom might introduce so much air that the pump is no longer able to build pressure and pump the water upwards.
If one was trying to keep the part count down, for a simpler system, would a waterfall type of aeration feed by aquaponics circulation pump do the job❓
The fish pond folks use a thing called a bakki shower. It might work for this but I'm not sure if there would be enough aeration for a 100' long DWC bed.
@@Bigelowbrook : talking about using a low speed large impeller motor, not a pump. mechanical stirring is what most commercial water oxygenation facilities do. the other way, using a pump, is a circulation system that has a overflow tank above, which splashes water onto main grow tank, in one corner. large volume low speed pump.
@@Chris-op7yt That probably would work too. These are used in our DWC beds to add air, and to also circulate the water to keep solids from settling at the bottom.
Why not use a Siphon mechanism with a DWC. If only the rafts would sit/rest on something in the first few cms (eg 2cm ), one can siphon easily 10 cm i guess. Such a design would give plants enough time to breath. You just need a huge Sump. Has anyone tried this ?
@@Bigelowbrook thanks for the reply yea I’m a big fan of the jebao pumps. I run the 1200l/h and 3000l/h pumps in my little aquaponics modules. Very reliable
sounds about right. I doubled the nozzles with that longer section but the pump size isn't double so technically there is less flow through them. However I think the sum of all the restriction from the throat of the nozzles may still be restricting some of the overall flow. There are so many variables with something like this it was difficult to explain it in a "short" video. I'm already starting to collect footage for a second video. 😉
@@Bigelowbrook might be worth doing a quick calculation that the area of the restrictions in the nozzle throat equals the area of the manifold pipe through which the water flows. Then you know your not choking the flow of the pump
in 124 watts youll get 16.5 liters per minute,,,,, i better choose the air pump,,, like resun LP100,,,(100 watts) they claimed it can generate 140 liters per minute,,,, even if resun was half true,,,, Many things for this video,,,
![DIY Areator Venturi that produce fine micro bubbles [Tutorial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XZ4-jbZo1oo/mqdefault.jpg)
![DIY Areator Venturi that produce fine micro bubbles [Tutorial]](/img/tr.png)
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Nice build Rob. 👍 Looking forward to seeing how it operates for you next season.
have you considered the first setup with the nozzles on one manifold facing north and the others facing south? Then you would generate a circular circulation pattern.
I suspect the low oxygen away from the nozzles is partially from the rotting sediment consuming oxygen from the water.
that would be a cool idea. Probably could alternate them from one set to another and create some large whirlpools (I guess we could say circulating around a vertical axis). I found with the 20' set along the edge, the water does a fairly good job circulating somewhat around a horizontal plane, but it isn't perfect since the intake point is fairly far away. (hopefully that makes some sense!)
I'm hoping the greater movement of water in the system will prevent more solids from settling out in the DWC so they will eventually get caught in the radial flow settler downstream....
very smart
I do something like that. I have 6 venturis around the edges of a 3.6m bed. 1 in each corner and 1 each in the middle of the long sides. All are angled clockwise. It works well.
You could harvest all the sediment and use it in dirt beds for fertilizer. Also, aeration of the tank keeps algae from growing. Algae doesn't like oxygen!
Good idea. To increase circulation you might try putting an extension in front of the pumps that puts the nozzles at the other end of the bed but turn one pump and nozzle system around. So water is pumped to the opposite end of the tank to be jetted at the other pump to be pumped back up the other end in a continuous cycle. The 2 halves of the tank would have the flow going across them in opposite directions. Another possibility would be to position the pumps in the middle of the tank (also on the walls) with one nozzle hose going to one end corner while the one on the other side goes to the opposite corner. It would be a similar effect with water going in opposite directions in each end of the tank. Cross the streams. And check out Speece cones for the most efficient Venturi effect. Thanks for the vid.
Nice setup! FWIW re sediment, I was talking with Dr. Savidov a few years ago, and he talked about how they had experimented with using jets of water to keep the sediment cleaned off. He started with a 2” pipe drilled with a line of 1/4” holes (I think). But when he pointed the holes downstream, the sediment drifted upstream. So he pointed the holes upstream and the sediment was pushed further downstream. The reason (it seems) is that the injection of the water increases the pressure, so the rest of the water and the sediment in the water tries to go to the lower pressure (upstream, in the case of the jets pointing downstream). Just a thought on how you could think about periodically encouraging your sediment to evacuate the tank, without disrupting your plant growth.
I spoke with him about it too. ;-)
Really cool build. Doing a lot in line is smart thinking. I'm currently experimenting with combining a venturi with a vortex chamber to try to keep the bubbles in there a little longer to increase their ability to dissolve into the water. Great work! Thanks again for collecting and showing us your data!
any update on the "venturi with vortex chamber" experiments you've done ? /S.L.G.
None yet. When I've completed them I'll post an update with Rob's permission. I'd like to post some videos about the process in the style that rob does.
Doesn't the oxygen get into the water when the bubbles pop at the surface?
@@everennui1 No. The oxygen gets into the water through diffusion. The longer a bubble is underwater, the more the gas within that bubble will diffuse into the water. The smaller the bubbles, the longer it takes to get to the surface, and thus more oxygenation occurs. If you put bubbles in a vortex, the force of the spinning water keeps the bubbles submerged for longer. Also, as the bubbles bump into each other and bounce off of each other in extreme turbulence, they get smaller and smaller, speeding up the oxygenation.
To be fair though, the disturbance of bubbles rising to the surface of the water, breaking the surface tension when they pop, does also oxygenate water, yes.
Hermano, si ponés un tubo por cada difusor tendrías más caudal de aire. Sdos desde Posadas Misiones 👏 👏 👏
For a better mixing you could place the nozzle on one side of the bed and the pump on the other side, that way you always have a good mixing
Suggestion for easy cleaning of your bed... Get a 1/2hp dirty water sump, I got mine from harbor freight for $68. Put it at one end with the hose laying over a large foam rubber pad to collect the debris, Squeegee everything towards that end and let the clean water run back into the bed. I own a pool company and we use this method on extremely dirty pools to keep it out of the sand filter... Might take 2-3 cycles but you can leave the pump running over night, as long as the foam doesn't fill up with debris it will continue to clean all night. Then when the foam is full, take it to the garden, turn it dirty side down and run water through it to feed to garden or yard...
Great build. Just curious about pump specs. Could you kindly share pump specs. Thanks.
This is awesome, but I wonder what the results would be with an underwater oxygen battery? Take a 3 inch PVC pipe, cut it in half, suspend the half pipe upside down so that it traps air. If atmosphere is 21% oxygen and water is 1% oygen, would the additional contact diffuse slower with less energy?
How does the aeration compare between airstones and venturi tubes? I'd love to see how DO compares instead of DO levels between no aeration and venturi. If Venturi is cheaper and more efficient, it seems like a no brainer to switch.
I cut a lot out of the video but part of it was showing a section where I have some air stones. They can aerate about the same area, but the air pump is far more expensive, cost more to run, and the tubing gets scattered around as things tug on them (mainly from me moving rafts around). Plus I still get solids settling right around the stones. I've also had stones pop off their tubes and then the majority of the air comes out of the broken tube because there is less resistance at the broken point.
What I really like about the ventri setup is how much better the water is circulated, helping to keep the solids in the water column (later to get caught in the RFS). Plus the O2 and nutrients can get circulated better too.
Overall, the algae isn't a problem. I only start to see some when I remove my rafts for experiments like this. ;-)
Just starting to watch. Hoping to see a Venturi like I have for my pool spa jets. Very simple and low cost. Let’s see what ya got
I have a venturi much like how a pool spa jet would work. ;-)
Use aquarium plants. They can help anchor the sediment to the bottom, help condition and clean your water. You can even collect local species like Hornwort and then put it in your system.
Tap/Thread is a much better idea than glue. It looks like another system on the other side would do a good job of moving the water but do you want the whole 100' tank to circulate or run from inlet to outlet?
Seems like you would want to create a current in a circle instead of blowing water to one end.
For the snorkel problem at 4:30min you could make a big manifold for the small manifold that way you only would have one big snorkel in one corner.
looks nice . do not down size the piping . instead upsize it . if the pump calls for an inch and a half go to two inch . this will give you more flow . instead of ending the piping connect all end so they continue. this will allow you to use less pumps and get more flow per pump used .
I follow your channel from the beginning and I really like all your projects ... I would like to offer you a suggestion that could be an interesting (I guess..) experiment for the system developed by you based on the Venturi tube .. You can practice a little the hole on the inlet pipe of the water pump, in which you can insert a thin hose through which the water pump sucks a very small amount of air. In this way, the respective air will be nebulized in the pump rotor without the risk of operation in cavitation mode. With this simple addition I believe that you will get air microbubbles that will improve aeration and at the same time you will have movement in the body of water that you want. Plus, this little innovation could be the theme of a new video that I would be very curious to see him ... I presume that you will get that remaining fog of air in tha water wich make aeration much more efficient...
I've seen this done on some pumps and there is a company that sells a pump that has this. The main problem is that you can get cavitation around the impeller and it usually wears the impeller down, or in some cases will ruin the bearings in the pump from the potential vibration.
simple idea to increse flow, Flip on side of the manifol, wich may creat a oposite flows on each side.
Brilliant Design 🎉
Perhaps in a redesign of the venturi you could make a clamp for the air tube or a clip.
I already have a new design for it....doubled the air flow through it. Of course it's a more complicated print. ;-) I think I understand your clamp statement....sort of like the little hose clamps on a small gas engine?
have you got an STL file for your Venturi?
I was in the middle of building something very similar for my DWC buckets. The youtube video I was watching ended and this video auto played. Very fortuitous.
I love the ingenuity and experimentation. The second air rail as opposed to just having a tube sticking straight up off each nozzle is brilliant.
If you only used the first 10 nozzles do you think you could get away with 1 inch pipe?
And with either 1" or the 1.5" you used here, would you say you had equal flow at each nozzle?
What pump size would you recommend for 10 nozzles?
Check out my design tool that will let you size a system with various pipe sizes. With 10 nozzles you would want the 1.5" pipe. infusinator.com/products/Infusinator/Design.aspx The Jabeo DCT-8000 pump would be a good choice to run 10 nozzles.
Awesome work and great in-depth information! You earned my sub sir!
What if you put one system in the center of the bed a pump 4"x10' pipe, 3"x10' pipe, 2"x10' pipe, 1"x10' pipe, 1/2"x10' pipe, 1/2"x10' pipe, 1"x10' pipe, 2'x10' pipe, 3"x10' pipe, 4"x10' pipe, pump with an air manifold the entire 100 foot length with nozzles pointed in both directions toward the sides of the beds? Would you get uniform oxygen saturation? Would you get uniform pressure?
I probably could work but I would calculate out the resistance through the piping. It would probably need a fairly large pump to use with a 4" pipe!
Putting fish in the water may help keeping it cleaner and give plants natural nutrients.After seeing your graphs I thought nasals could be 4 feet apart.
This is a very clever design. Is it cheaper and as effective as running a large air pump?
I cut a whole section out of the video where I talked about my diaphragm air pump since I felt this video was already too long! I believe it runs at about 100 watts vs the 125 of this setup. It aerates a smaller area of the bed, plus I have a bunch of air stones and tubing all over the place. The air stones clog over time or if a tubing comes apart, the majority of the air comes through that one break. IMO the venturi is a better option since they don't clog (unless the pump sucks up a piece of debris), there's no tubing to mess with, and the overall material cost is probably 1/3 of an air pump and stones.
correction: piston air pump, not diaphragm
@@Bigelowbrook This was going to be my exact question. Thanks for explaining the pros vs airstones.
23*C isn't too high therefore 80% saturation isn't a big thingy. I would suggest using only one pump and one venturi feeding into a vertical pipe (from the top) with increasing diameters (to the bottom) and exiting with the same diameter you came in with. Then distribute it through out the raft as you did - the result will be the creation of very small bubbles which have a thousand times more surface are for the same air therefore increasing solubility big time. I managed to have 83% oxygen saturation at a water temperature of 35*C. If you want I can send you a video I did showing you this. Let me know.
When you said distribute it through out the raft did you mean with more venturi nozzles or normal pipe opening?
Also what you are describing is basically an oxygen cone right?
Would appreciate more info and the video you talked about
Thanks
Hello! It's an interesting idea, can you share the information ?
Hello, could you share this video please?
@@ayzex9975 yes, it's basically a DIY oxygen cone and yes the water exists a normal pipe opening.
Awesome build, and a great video thanks for sharing
Hello sir..
Can we make with just two reduers? Joint thier low side and make a hole in centre?
ever thought of whether it improves our oxygen metabolism too by drinking it?
some studies show that it helps against cancer.
treating drinking water for cattle and birds may prevent disease spreading like birdflu.
Thanks for the video. What kind of program are you using for the CAD and #D printing?
Autodesk Inventor
Also, what kind of resin do you use for your prints? I was under the impression that most 3d printable resins aren't fish or food safe. Clearly I've been misinformed.
you are probably correct. I have had problems with some of these degrading when under water after a month or so. I've been looking for something with better curing properties.
What printer did you use to print the nozzles?
Anycubic Photon S. I also have a FormLab 3 but the Anycubic is substantially cheaper to operate.
Hi, nice done. How deep in the water can you place the venturi before the air can’t come down anymore?
I haven't tried. It can depend on the amount of flow that can be pushed through it. The deeper you put it, the less effective it becomes.
@@Bigelowbrook Thank you for your reply. I was thinking about 900mm deep inside a fish tank. Did you btw check how much oxygen difference there was at the opposite location before and after the Venturi was installed?
I only checked a few meters away. I didn't have the time to test the far end of the bed. It takes around 3 hours for the water to work it's way down to that side.
Will you be adding these to your shop?
eventually. First we're going to do a kickstarter. infusinator.com
Pretty cool. Its awesome we can 3d print stuff we need :)
Excellent job
I would suspend the system higher in the water and point it down.... closer to the surface the more air it will pull.. from my experience with power heads on fish tanks
These are only set down about 10 inches so technically it does have to work a little harder. If I did set them near the surface, I would be concerned about the roots of the plants getting caught in the piping as the rafts are pushed by.
When using a Venturi device you may be converting water into its fourth phase
is there only one size of this nozzle available? i want to use it but for a different application but will need something with bigger than a 7 mm hole
It's the only size
Stupid question maybe but do venturi aerators work installed vertically and pushing water up a pipe?
They could work in any position....the amount of air they produce depends on the flow and amount of back pressure against it.
@@Bigelowbrook The back pressure is what I'm worried about. In my case there is no tank into which the pump is pushing.
I just have a vertical pipe through which I need to pump water. So I'm worried a venturi at the bottom might introduce so much air that the pump is no longer able to build pressure and pump the water upwards.
If one was trying to keep the part count down, for a simpler system, would a waterfall type of aeration feed by aquaponics circulation pump do the job❓
The fish pond folks use a thing called a bakki shower. It might work for this but I'm not sure if there would be enough aeration for a 100' long DWC bed.
You could try a schauberger funnel it's the best way to oxygenate water
@@Humbulla93: Where can we buy such funnel??..Its design, available in You Tube?...
Awesome job mate!
Any idea what effect it has on greenhouse and water temperature.?
Would a diffuser plate work to further spread to surface area?
Wht size pump fitted to the 20 nozzles. Meaning how many liters of water does the pump out put for 20 nozzles
You would need about 275 lpm. You can play with a design tool here. Thanks! infusinator.com/products/Infusinator/Design.aspx
what about using a impeller (on motor) to both stir air into water and to circulate the water at same time?
usually adding air at the impeller will cause cavitation and will ruin the pump
@@Bigelowbrook : talking about using a low speed large impeller motor, not a pump. mechanical stirring is what most commercial water oxygenation facilities do. the other way, using a pump, is a circulation system that has a overflow tank above, which splashes water onto main grow tank, in one corner. large volume low speed pump.
@@Chris-op7yt That probably would work too. These are used in our DWC beds to add air, and to also circulate the water to keep solids from settling at the bottom.
Excellent video!
Wonderful and so interesting.
Would this somehow work for compost tea brewer? If so, say in a brut 35 g system, how many nozzles do i need to attain minimum 5.5 ppm level?
I have a new video that shows them in a mineralisation tank, which is basically the same thing. It's using 4 nozzles.
Awesome video!
I think I missed it in the video but what size pump are you using?
The larger one is 15000 lph
If adding a second, why not put the pumps at opposite ends of the 20 feet.
I'd be happy to buy a half-dozen of those nozzles from you for my own system. DM me to make arrangements, if you want to get into that.
water gets saturated by o2 quickly. I've found a little does a long way.
Good job!
would this work for a fish pond
yes. I have people that have installed a series of these in a fish pond. It's best to have filtered water to go through it to prevent clogging.
You a need a solids filter
Why not use a Siphon mechanism with a DWC. If only the rafts would sit/rest on something in the first few cms (eg 2cm ), one can siphon easily 10 cm i guess. Such a design would give plants enough time to breath. You just need a huge Sump. Has anyone tried this ?
The DWC bed is the sump for this system. If I siphoned that bed the sump tank would nee to be 5000 gallons! ;-)
@@Bigelowbrook Thats why a huge sump is mandatory. The thing is is it viable?
@@MEothainneed the double nutrients to mantain same concentration
Could you let us know the flow rate of the pump?
according to the specs, the larger pump is 66.03gpm and the smaller one is 52.8gpm. They are the Jebao DCT series
@@Bigelowbrook thanks for the reply yea I’m a big fan of the jebao pumps. I run the 1200l/h and 3000l/h pumps in my little aquaponics modules. Very reliable
@@Bigelowbrook ok so the 66gpm is 18000L/h so with 20 nozzles they are flowing about 900L/h each
sounds about right. I doubled the nozzles with that longer section but the pump size isn't double so technically there is less flow through them. However I think the sum of all the restriction from the throat of the nozzles may still be restricting some of the overall flow. There are so many variables with something like this it was difficult to explain it in a "short" video. I'm already starting to collect footage for a second video. 😉
@@Bigelowbrook might be worth doing a quick calculation that the area of the restrictions in the nozzle throat equals the area of the manifold pipe through which the water flows. Then you know your not choking the flow of the pump
Wanna sell some of the ventures you made
infusinator.com
Will you be making these available for purchase?
I would like to but it's hard to justify spending $15-20K to have a mold made up for it,
Aloha!
in 124 watts youll get 16.5 liters per minute,,,,, i better choose the air pump,,,
like resun LP100,,,(100 watts) they claimed it can generate 140 liters per minute,,,,
even if resun was half true,,,,
Many things for this video,,,
hi dude!
Air lift pumps. Higher oxygen levels, and it breaks down your solids.
👍👍👍👍👍
Look into NANO BUBBLES. AMAZING! AMAZING BENEFITS!
I think if my beds were that filthy I'd be to ashamed to show it on YT!