rewatching this video, as I am about to do some drawers, and I recalled your video was the best!!! Thank you again for the tutorial and info. I really appreciate it.
Oh my goodness!!! You’re brilliant! I couldn’t figure out for the life of me how you screwed in those slides underneath existing cabinets! How you did in this video was absolutely brilliant. Yes a little room is lost but you still picked up room you didn’t have before and that’s it exactly what I plan to do myself. *how did you do the corner drawer? That was really cool! Thank you for sharing your experience and doing a follow up on your original video. 👍👍👍🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻💖💖💖
Hi Susan! Glad you enjoyed the video! Sorry for the late reply. The corner drawer was installed and built the same way. The only difference was the drawer slides. They didn't make the push in to pop out slides in the longer length for the corners. So I simply used normal drawer slides. Let us know if you every need help on something like this. Thanks again! :)
Such beautiful cabinets and that corner one is awesome! I had to remake the same set of stairs 3 times, but by the 3rd go they were perfect, much more gooder!
I was happy to find your 2 videos on the toe kick drawers. I am preparing to build kitchen cabinets and this otherwise wasted space won't be wasted in the new cabinets now. My only question is how did you secure the frame with the slides under the cabinets? It looks like there is almost no room for any kind of tools to screw or attach it.
@@BeauandKaraStudios Great Video!!! Does screwing the screws from the top, instead of removing the drawer and screwing the drawer box from the sides, help to place the cabinet box as close to the top cabinet as possible? I'm wondering if for austics, screwing them sideways would be just as good.
@@martincortez2339 Great question! I found out that screws from the top was sooooo much easier! I didn't have access to the sides as there is a dishwasher on one side. I didn't care if the cabinet was close to the top or not. I was a convenience thing for me. Thanks!
Now that it's been a year since install, would you provide an update as to how those Fox brand drawer slides have held up please? Great info and love you did it and THANKS for telling/showing what slide you used---so helpful. I think ALL cabinets should have these drawers instead of wasted space. If nothing else, great hiding spot. :-) Oh and why not use a longer slide since cabinets are deeper than 16"? Preference or construction issues? Thanks again.
Hello! The drawers and hardware still work as good as they did on day 1. No problems. As far as longer drawer slides, just wanted full extension ones and not overtravel. So it was just a preference on my part. Glad the video helped! :)
I thought the whole idea wth the toe kick is that you kick the drawer slightly so it comes out for easy access , your opening your version of toe kick using your hand while your bending down to open it??
Besides the 2 corner toe kick drawers, the remainder are push to open. Meaning they will spring open 2-3" to clear the toe kick space. You still have to bend down to put something in the drawer, or take something out. So not a problem with me. :)
I haven’t installed my base cabinets yet but I need to asap so I can order my counter tops. I don’t have a table saw and parts to build these. I can buy birch boxes for about $70 So if I didn’t have cabinets installed yet, could I just attach the slides to the box and side of the cabinets? How much space should I allow for the drawer slides when figuring out what size drawer to order?
Hello! For your first question; yes! You can the slides to the box and the side of your cabinets. Second question; 1"-1/16". Your drawer slides usually take up 1/2" of room on each side of your drawer for a total of 1". I add 1/16" for some play so that my drawer isn't so tight I can't fit it in its hole. In conclusion, your toe kick drawer should be 1-1/16" smaller (left and right) than the opening you are planning on putting it in. Also think about the height of that drawer too. You don't want it tight to the floor or the cabinet itself. I usually make the drawer 1/4" shorter than it's opening (top to bottom). Does that help? Thanks for asking! :)
Hello! I don't have instructions as each drawer has to be custom made for your opening and for the type of drawer slides you get. It's essentially lots of measuring and then making a box that fits. It's helpful to know how much tolerances you need when making a drawer and how much drawer slides give you. That is were a professional comes in. You could probably get one made for around $70-$100 but the install would be twice as much. That's my two cents. :)
Relieved and glad that I found your video! Thank you for sharing!! Now, on to my build 😃
So glad it helped! Good luck with your build! :)
rewatching this video, as I am about to do some drawers, and I recalled your video was the best!!! Thank you again for the tutorial and info. I really appreciate it.
That's rad! Thanks for the compliment! Glad it helped! :)
Oh my goodness!!! You’re brilliant! I couldn’t figure out for the life of me how you screwed in those slides underneath existing cabinets! How you did in this video was absolutely brilliant. Yes a little room is lost but you still picked up room you didn’t have before and that’s it exactly what I plan to do myself. *how did you do the corner drawer? That was really cool!
Thank you for sharing your experience and doing a follow up on your original video.
👍👍👍🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻💖💖💖
Hi Susan! Glad you enjoyed the video! Sorry for the late reply. The corner drawer was installed and built the same way. The only difference was the drawer slides. They didn't make the push in to pop out slides in the longer length for the corners. So I simply used normal drawer slides. Let us know if you every need help on something like this. Thanks again! :)
Thank you for saving me (most likely) 2 days of work! 😊 This is great!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching! :)
Such beautiful cabinets and that corner one is awesome! I had to remake the same set of stairs 3 times, but by the 3rd go they were perfect, much more gooder!
Yes! The third time is always more gooder! 😀
Nice job!
Thank you! :)
I was happy to find your 2 videos on the toe kick drawers. I am preparing to build kitchen cabinets and this otherwise wasted space won't be wasted in the new cabinets now.
My only question is how did you secure the frame with the slides under the cabinets? It looks like there is almost no room for any kind of tools to screw or attach it.
Hello! I put screws through the bottom of the base cabinet into the frame of the toe kick cabinet. 2 per side. Hope this helps! Thanks!
@@BeauandKaraStudios Great Video!!! Does screwing the screws from the top, instead of removing the drawer and screwing the drawer box from the sides, help to place the cabinet box as close to the top cabinet as possible? I'm wondering if for austics, screwing them sideways would be just as good.
@@martincortez2339 Great question! I found out that screws from the top was sooooo much easier! I didn't have access to the sides as there is a dishwasher on one side. I didn't care if the cabinet was close to the top or not. I was a convenience thing for me. Thanks!
Now that it's been a year since install, would you provide an update as to how those Fox brand drawer slides have held up please? Great info and love you did it and THANKS for telling/showing what slide you used---so helpful. I think ALL cabinets should have these drawers instead of wasted space. If nothing else, great hiding spot. :-) Oh and why not use a longer slide since cabinets are deeper than 16"? Preference or construction issues? Thanks again.
Hello! The drawers and hardware still work as good as they did on day 1. No problems.
As far as longer drawer slides, just wanted full extension ones and not overtravel. So it was just a preference on my part.
Glad the video helped! :)
I thought the whole idea wth the toe kick is that you kick the drawer slightly so it comes out for easy access , your opening your version of toe kick using your hand while your bending down to open it??
Besides the 2 corner toe kick drawers, the remainder are push to open. Meaning they will spring open 2-3" to clear the toe kick space. You still have to bend down to put something in the drawer, or take something out. So not a problem with me. :)
I haven’t installed my base cabinets yet but I need to asap so I can order my counter tops.
I don’t have a table saw and parts to build these.
I can buy birch boxes for about $70
So if I didn’t have cabinets installed yet, could I just attach the slides to the box and side of the cabinets?
How much space should I allow for the drawer slides when figuring out what size drawer to order?
Hello! For your first question; yes! You can the slides to the box and the side of your cabinets. Second question; 1"-1/16". Your drawer slides usually take up 1/2" of room on each side of your drawer for a total of 1". I add 1/16" for some play so that my drawer isn't so tight I can't fit it in its hole.
In conclusion, your toe kick drawer should be 1-1/16" smaller (left and right) than the opening you are planning on putting it in. Also think about the height of that drawer too. You don't want it tight to the floor or the cabinet itself. I usually make the drawer 1/4" shorter than it's opening (top to bottom).
Does that help? Thanks for asking! :)
I need these in my life but I am not a woodworking type.... although it does look fairly basic of cuts. Do you have instructions?
Hello! I don't have instructions as each drawer has to be custom made for your opening and for the type of drawer slides you get. It's essentially lots of measuring and then making a box that fits. It's helpful to know how much tolerances you need when making a drawer and how much drawer slides give you. That is were a professional comes in. You could probably get one made for around $70-$100 but the install would be twice as much. That's my two cents. :)