In regards to presenter's comment that the 'stylus' has tendency to jump..a smaller diameter head of crusted industrial diamond burrs could be an answer. These are set on smaller diameter shank (perhaps a smaller collet can be utilised if Dremel is to be used). Otherwise, handpieces from other makers can be used NSK, Kavo, Foredom which are brands which supply variable speed high/low revs and inverted cone shaped diamond tips. Slow speed is less likely to melt surface with heat of turning tip(s). Also other flex shaft tools can be utilised.
*I've realized that I found a possible solution to my problem of lining up the images... by getting a machine to engrave my designs into drypoint plastic. Yesterday I tried for the first time engraving inredibly complex designs I made into the face of the plastic... on my CRICUT plotter. OMG it works and looks otherwise pretty much as if I would've done it by hand (except accurate). The design was so complex that it took the plotter more than an hour to do it. But it looks stunning and I almost don't want to ink it up.
The problem I have this method is the fact that where you are looking at the plate changes where the line underneath appears. The thicker the plastic, the harder it is to line up exactly the same if you are sitting a different position on a new session. But then again, no one else seems to mention this so I suppose other people find it easy to stay in the same position and remain completely still while doing the engraving. Damn you to death ADHD! I will never remain still enough to get good at this!!
In regards to presenter's comment that the 'stylus' has tendency to jump..a smaller diameter head of crusted industrial diamond burrs could be an answer. These are set on smaller diameter shank (perhaps a smaller collet can be utilised if Dremel is to be used).
Otherwise, handpieces from other makers can be used NSK, Kavo, Foredom which are brands which supply variable speed high/low revs and inverted cone shaped diamond tips. Slow speed is less likely to melt surface with heat of turning tip(s). Also other flex shaft tools can be utilised.
Interesting technique I might like to try. Thanks for showing it.
Just started working with dry point plexiglass so happy to know some else out there is doing it out there. Can’t wait to see out it comes out.
Great to see, wonderful info and plate! Thank you
Kathy thank you for your encouragement
I have been wondering if I can use a Dremel on plexiglass....now I think it will work!! Thanks for your detailed video
*I've realized that I found a possible solution to my problem of lining up the images... by getting a machine to engrave my designs into drypoint plastic. Yesterday I tried for the first time engraving inredibly complex designs I made into the face of the plastic... on my CRICUT plotter. OMG it works and looks otherwise pretty much as if I would've done it by hand (except accurate). The design was so complex that it took the plotter more than an hour to do it. But it looks stunning and I almost don't want to ink it up.
Yeas Zachar thats a great idea, I have never used a cricut plotter But I shall look into this.
The problem I have this method is the fact that where you are looking at the plate changes where the line underneath appears. The thicker the plastic, the harder it is to line up exactly the same if you are sitting a different position on a new session. But then again, no one else seems to mention this so I suppose other people find it easy to stay in the same position and remain completely still while doing the engraving. Damn you to death ADHD! I will never remain still enough to get good at this!!
The plastic we use is only 1 mm thick so there is no great problem with the distortion, sorry for the delay with the reply.
@@nigelmorris8074 ...I've started using thin plastic as well Thanks for the comment