Ok, I had to say you made me smile about your Very scientific test with the signwave...reminded me of my sweet brother in law who has been gone to early from our lives. Bobby would have appreciated your approach. He was a nuclear engineer....and my favorite kind of detail geek that I loved dearly. Peace and thanks for the good smiles and memories. Geeks riule 😅.
I have a "really old" >25 yrs old Motomaster 1750W model that is pretty much the same physical size/weight. 😀 It has had almost no use over the years, and is probably a "modified square wave" unit. Back then, they were actually designed (and manufactured?) by a company in BC (I don't recall who). Who carries an oscilloscope in their RV? - LOL - Great review and tear-down - Thanks - Cheers!
I loved Canadian Tire: lived at 44 Nancy Drive in North Bay, ON, and was right around the corner from a big store...spent a LOT of time there (way more interesting than Wal Mart)!
There is something to be said for the value of being able to walk in and make a warranty claim and walk out with a new unit. Rather than paying who knows how much to ship back to manufacturer plus shipping back to you and waiting who knows how many weeks or months to get the new unit or just a repaired one. As for the 85%. If it suits your needs, it works. Is an extra 3-5% worth paying 100% more for one of the other brands with only a one year warranty and the previously mentioned hassles. :)
Looks like a really well made inverter, impressive that the standby current was only 600mA. I just bought a 600/1200W LVYUAN "pure sine wave" inverter and the standby current is over 800mA, and the waveform is an absolute mess, total piece of junk! but for what they cost, I wasn't expecting much, well perhaps a waveform that remotely looked like a sine wave! Great review, thanks
You can see my past install here www.loveyourrv.com/30-amp-rv-power-transfer-switch-installation-go-power-ts-30/ But I'll update it to reflect the new inverter install. Cheers, Ray
I have a samlex pst 1500 watt inverter, $ 850 5 years ago. I can actually start my 12.7 amp ac unit on it( micro air sift start installed). The out put ac voltage is 119-121 volts. I also have a 300 watt samlex for smaller loads, tv, computer ect. I really enjoy the testing. Would love to see more of it. The only thing i could not Handel with the motor master is the ac output voltage. Seems like it might drop below 105, if approaching 2500 watts. That being said, 500$, you really can't go wrong. I'm curious to see DC voltage drop on lion energy at different loads.
It seems to me like its a decent performing 2000 inverter and they have fudged things a bit to hit the 3000W spec. But, when I install it into my trailer come September I'll do some more testing. It should perform a little better since I'll have it hooked to 4 Lion Energy batteries, so less draw on each battery and will be using a shorter run of high quality 2/0 cables rather than the cheap looking 1/0 gauge they supplied. I'd hazard to guess they are likely Copper Clad Aluminum versus pure copper. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV Yah, I'm sure why they send out wires that are undersized. I'm finally switching over to lithium. 4×100 ah. I'd like to get lion, but any afford it. Alberta lithium, I'm going with. Have you heard of them?
Can't say I have. But there are a ton of companies these days reselling stuff. Great price! And OK specs as far as I can see on the website but not very long of warranty. I imagine they are buying from a Chinese company wholesale and getting their logo and info printed on the battery, then reselling them. Just a guess. A lot depends on what grade of cells and quality of BMS they order and whether they stay on top of the Chinese manufacturer as far as consistent quality goes. The really low price point makes me a little nervous. Most of the good Chinese company makes I've come across and had a chance to take apart, like SOK and Aolithium, sell in the $549 USD range but have longer warranties.
@@LoveYourRV Apparently they are grade a cells. But, I haven't got an answer on bms. Looks like they did a capacity test on you tube 108ah. They seem a little weary to give out much info. Will prose did a tear down of, ampertime, seemed decent. But thier little to big for my battery compartment. Sok are sold for $849 out of the interior. I finding it hard make the decision, as sok,aolithium are better, even renogy seem good, they use pouch cells which Apparently have less life cycles.
@@notreallyhere7719 I'm currently working on a review of a newer model AOLithium battery 12V100Ah-4S aolithium.com/products/12v-100ah-4s-lithium-battery-with-bluetooth They changed a few things and made it capable to series 4 vs 2. Here was my previous review www.loveyourrv.com/aolithium-battery-demo-review-100ah-12v-lifepo4-with-bluetooth-app/ They look very well built, and the company seems to be trying to respond to reviewers complaints. They fixed the terminals that were recessed in the older model so it can more easily handle larger lugs and adjusted the high amp shutdown protection. They sell the older model by the looks of it on Amazon.ca for $729 amzn.to/3nRpjWz, but unfortunately, ships from the USA so adds $120 Cheers, Ray
good review. I have been using the renongy 3000w and looks to be a very similar unit. nice being able to run the microwave even for a few minutes to heat water.
I'm pretty sure Samlex makes the inverters for Canadian Tire. They are very good inverters as you attested to your 10 year lifespan on the 1000W. They have manufacturing facilities in several countries including the U.S., Canada, and China, etc.
This company seems to be the most similar looking I've found reliableinverters.com/collections/pure-sine-wave-inverters Some differences in the hardware but the layout of it looks near the same.
Some of your voltage drop was probably coming from the battery cables. check your voltage drop across the battery cable between battery and inverter. I am running 1/0 cables for a 2,000 watt inverter changer using high quality cables and the voltage drop was significant before I upgraded the wiring run. 200+ amps is a lot for cheap 1/0 cables.
Just out of interest here is what the owners manual says for cable gauge and length www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/3000W-inverter-manual-crop-scaled.jpg
I believe it but I have some good 1/0 welding cable from Windy Nation that runs a 2,000 watt inverter charger. My run is less than 12 inches. I would not want to use cheap 1/0 cables for a 3,000 watt inverter without checking the voltage drop. Also, I had the same ANL fuse holder and it had a significant voltage drop
Looks like a nice unit. They are normally installed in big trucks. Please test the 1/0(one aught) cable for heat. It needs to stay below 90C to keep from deteriorating the insulation. It’s going to take lots of batteries to get that much power for any length of time.
I found the cables seem a little thin for the job as well. Maybe they get away with it using short cables only 3 feet long. Here is what is printed in the manual for cable gauge and length www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/3000W-inverter-manual-crop-scaled.jpg Seems a little optimistic. :) I'll be installing the inverter into my existing system, which has around 2-foot long 2/0 cables for the inverter powered by 4 LiFePO 105 Ah batteries. It should be OK as I'll only be running loads around 2000 watt max and for short durations. I'm not planning on using the inverter to run the AC for hours at a time. Mostly just appliances like the microwave. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV Based on table 310.15(B)(17) single conductor in open air and 85C of the NEC at 90C insulation 2/0 would work for up to 300 amperes. I’m thinking you are on the right path. Their table of increasing for 6’ to 10’ is to offset voltage drop at 12 volts. Best wishes Sir! Kevin
Was testing out a lithium battery today and did a 100 amp discharge test for about 50 mins. Negative remained pretty cool, only slight heat could be felt but the cheap fuse block was starting to heat up noticeably then it transferred some of that heat down the positive cable. That is the weakest link in their setup.
What timing Ray. I just picked up a new 2022 Grand Design Momentum 25G and the 1000w Inverter (Magnum) is pretty wimpy and was planning to replace it. I'm a VIctron fan but they don't make any Phoenix 120v 2000W-3000W inverters (they are all 230v). The Multiplus are nice but way overpriced for what I need (right now at least). I think I'll join you and give this one a try since it is on sale. Please keep us updated on your website (or here) on what you find with it. I especially like the remote display panel, the Magnum units Grand Design uses don't have that.
Ok I took the plunge, can't go wrong with 24 payments no interest at CTC with their Mastercard. My trailer only has 1/0 cables at present but well below 6 feet, will look at upgrading them to 2/0 in the future.
@@LoveYourRV Right now just the stock 12v 100AH Deep Cell so can't really utilize the entire inverter (yet) but honestly I just needed a little more than the 1000W included can handle for short loads (even the Kurig ramps to 1500-1600 watts on startup, was too much for the 1000W). I do have some Renogy 12v 100AH LifePO4 in my house system I could move over to the RV but will likely wait and jump on a Battleborn (so I can serial them one day, Renogy can't do serial). Though I must admit the Renogy large 12v 200ah would fit in the space under our bed would be a possibility. Need to check out some of the LifePO4 you have tested (I'm in Ontario so need to find local suppliers).
I have a feeling a single lead acid battery will really struggle with that Kurig load. Guess it will depend on how long it runs and how charged up the lead acid is. 200AH of lithium either a single or two batteries in parallel should do the job well as it will give about 200 amps max discharge rate. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV Did some reading up on the inverter and your right, the efficiency is a tad low compared to others. No idea how much the "Canada Proof" Lead can support but I see the Renogy 100ah can only sustain 100A (1C) of discharge and since I don't have the new bank yet, I might as well wait and see what I built first. With 1000W I'm safe with the current battery.
I have this inverter running a solar setup the max dc input voltage is 16vdc but autoresets and alarms at 16vdc had to adjust my charge controller not to to charge past 13.9vdc then it works fine.
I have my solar chargers set for 14.2V and my DC-DC and converter charger at 14.4V. I'm charging lithium batteries. When the batteries reach near full, the voltage can reach 14.6V for a short period, and the inverter hasn't shut down. Used it extensively off-grid last winter without issue.
Another great review Ray. I love that no matter how little of a storage space you have, Ray will have room for an oscilloscope. :). This coming from an automation electrician, so I get it :) Also how do they get away with 1/0 150 amp wires with a 300 amp load rating?
Actually, it was in my local storage room with some other tools I've hung onto, but it is quite a small light unit. I found the cables seem a little thin as well, but that is what they listed in the manual as well. Maybe they get away with it using short cables only 3 feet long. Looking at online sizing seems to be all over the map. Some sites are recommending 4/0. On the other end of the spectrum. Here is a Home Depot 12' set of 1/0. Says for inverters up to 4000W and lists 345 amps max. www.homedepot.com/p/Power-Bright-0-AWG-Gauge-12-ft-Professional-Cables-Recommended-for-Use-with-Inverters-up-to-4000-Watt-0AWG12/300259717 Seem overly optimistic! :) I'll be installing the inverter into my existing system, which has around 2-foot long 2/0 cables for the inverter. It should be OK as I'll only be running loads around 2000 watt max and for short durations. I'm not planning on using the inverter to run the AC for hours at a time. Mostly just appliances like the microwave. Cheers, Ray
Just out of interest here is what the owners manual says for cable gauge and length www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/3000W-inverter-manual-crop-scaled.jpg
Good test & video. As your voltage was dropping your amps should (were) be going up. Was this on the output side of the inverter ? This could be an issue in the output going into the trailer for items like A/C. I do not know the specific voltage / amps, but my camping friend blew his a/c out at a park with poor electric service on a very hot day as everyone was drawing a lot of current running their a/c units. Not enough voltage & too many amps. He now owns a very good surge protector. He insisted I get one as well, which I did. It has tripped a few times, so it may be a good thing to have. Most think a voltage spike is all they have to worry about, but it works the other way as well. Keep the product reviews coming...
I've had one since 2012 www.loveyourrv.com/progressive-industries-model-ems-hw30c/ It will kick the power off if the line voltage drops below 104 VAC. It's done it a few times, usually in sketchy old RV parks that don't' have the power to adequately provide for when everyone running ACs or heaters.
Its been running well. I installed it into the trailer 2 months ago ua-cam.com/video/QEqHrIQuI8U/v-deo.html and have bookdocked several weeks in that time with no issues so far.
Installing a 3000 watt inverter along with a transfer switch and the Waco auto detect converter. Also putting in a couple of SOK 206 batteries. I know, a lot at one time. Anyway got to the test stage. Everything looking good except turning off the converter breaker also shuts off the AC outlets and the fridge. Apparently, Keystone(I have the same year and model 5th wheel as Ray) put the 3 circuits on the same breaker. Have to pick up another breaker tomorrow. Anyone else seen this problem?
@@LoveYourRV looking at your video again I see your dedicated breaker for the converter. My rig lacks that. So just hooked it up the way the old one was. I used the existing wire nut, which has the wire coming from the converter. I didn't know what the other wire was supplying. Now I know. I see the wire nut in your video, but I can't make out what you did with that. Did you disconnect the wires and install in separate breakers? Thanks Bob Price
That wire nut actually went nowhere on OEM install, but I used it for a power meter I installed a while back when I spent the winter in BC and wanted to have a meter showing input amps. Here is that video ua-cam.com/video/9AyjUJyMrJw/v-deo.html
@@LoveYourRV Thanks Ray, really appreciate the feedback. One of the reasons I like your channel. So I'm just going to pick up another breaker and pull the inverted power to it. Leave the other wire where it is. thanks again. Bob Price
My inverter gave off a burning smell. Now it turns on but anything plugged into it has no power. What could this be? Maybe internal fuses? Do you just open up the unit and change the fuses?
It's hard to say exactly what it is as it can be so many things, but I'd try to find what component or wire burned, and then you may be able to figure out why. If a fuse is open, you could try changing it, but it may just open again if there is a short circuit.
So far its worked well. I ended up wiring it into my transfer switch ua-cam.com/video/QEqHrIQuI8U/v-deo.html Been mostly camping off grid since mid October so has had lots of sustained use.
Hey I just bought this unit for our off grid cabin just wondering if you know it won't run the wife's blender . It a vita mix 1200w 50,60 Hz . Is it because the inverter only goes down to 60Hz any way I'm happy with it it runs the washing machine ,saves me generator time !!)
It should be able to easily run it once it's going, the start-up is the iffy part. Pump motors take a significant inrush amperage to start them up so can't say for sure. I tried it with my air conditioner and it failed to start the compressor. I installed a soft starter device and then it was able to.
I have my solar chargers set for 14.2V and my DC-DC and converter charger at 14.4V. I'm charging lithium batteries. When the batteries reach near full, the voltage can reach 14.6V for a short period, and the inverter hasn't shut down. Used it extensively off-grid last winter without issue.
Product Link - www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-eliminator-pure-sine-wave-power-inverter-includes-battery-cables-fuse-kit-and-wired-remote-3000w-0112104p.html
Lithium Battery Related Videos - www.loveyourrv.com/tag/lithium/
Boondocking (Off-Grid) Videos - www.loveyourrv.com/boondocking-related-post-archive/
Ok, I had to say you made me smile about your Very scientific test with the signwave...reminded me of my sweet brother in law who has been gone to early from our lives. Bobby would have appreciated your approach. He was a nuclear engineer....and my favorite kind of detail geek that I loved dearly. Peace and thanks for the good smiles and memories. Geeks riule 😅.
I have a "really old" >25 yrs old Motomaster 1750W model that is pretty much the same physical size/weight. 😀
It has had almost no use over the years, and is probably a "modified square wave" unit.
Back then, they were actually designed (and manufactured?) by a company in BC (I don't recall who).
Who carries an oscilloscope in their RV? - LOL - Great review and tear-down - Thanks - Cheers!
I loved Canadian Tire: lived at 44 Nancy Drive in North Bay, ON, and was right around the corner from a big store...spent a LOT of time there (way more interesting than Wal Mart)!
There is something to be said for the value of being able to walk in and make a warranty claim and walk out with a new unit. Rather than paying who knows how much to ship back to manufacturer plus shipping back to you and waiting who knows how many weeks or months to get the new unit or just a repaired one.
As for the 85%. If it suits your needs, it works. Is an extra 3-5% worth paying 100% more for one of the other brands with only a one year warranty and the previously mentioned hassles. :)
Looks like a really well made inverter, impressive that the standby current was only 600mA. I just bought a 600/1200W LVYUAN "pure sine wave" inverter and the standby current is over 800mA, and the waveform is an absolute mess, total piece of junk! but for what they cost, I wasn't expecting much, well perhaps a waveform that remotely looked like a sine wave! Great review, thanks
Looking forward to seeing you wire this into your transfer switch. Hoping for very detailed instructions, I’m preparing to do the same for my camper.
You can see my past install here www.loveyourrv.com/30-amp-rv-power-transfer-switch-installation-go-power-ts-30/ But I'll update it to reflect the new inverter install. Cheers, Ray
Looking forward to video with you integrating it with a transfer switch.
Thanks for sharing Ray.
I have a samlex pst 1500 watt inverter, $ 850 5 years ago. I can actually start my 12.7 amp ac unit on it( micro air sift start installed). The out put ac voltage is 119-121 volts. I also have a 300 watt samlex for smaller loads, tv, computer ect.
I really enjoy the testing. Would love to see more of it.
The only thing i could not Handel with the motor master is the ac output voltage. Seems like it might drop below 105, if approaching 2500 watts. That being said, 500$, you really can't go wrong.
I'm curious to see DC voltage drop on lion energy at different loads.
It seems to me like its a decent performing 2000 inverter and they have fudged things a bit to hit the 3000W spec. But, when I install it into my trailer come September I'll do some more testing. It should perform a little better since I'll have it hooked to 4 Lion Energy batteries, so less draw on each battery and will be using a shorter run of high quality 2/0 cables rather than the cheap looking 1/0 gauge they supplied. I'd hazard to guess they are likely Copper Clad Aluminum versus pure copper. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV Yah, I'm sure why they send out wires that are undersized. I'm finally switching over to lithium. 4×100 ah. I'd like to get lion, but any afford it. Alberta lithium, I'm going with. Have you heard of them?
Can't say I have. But there are a ton of companies these days reselling stuff. Great price! And OK specs as far as I can see on the website but not very long of warranty. I imagine they are buying from a Chinese company wholesale and getting their logo and info printed on the battery, then reselling them. Just a guess. A lot depends on what grade of cells and quality of BMS they order and whether they stay on top of the Chinese manufacturer as far as consistent quality goes. The really low price point makes me a little nervous. Most of the good Chinese company makes I've come across and had a chance to take apart, like SOK and Aolithium, sell in the $549 USD range but have longer warranties.
@@LoveYourRV Apparently they are grade a cells. But, I haven't got an answer on bms. Looks like they did a capacity test on you tube 108ah. They seem a little weary to give out much info. Will prose did a tear down of, ampertime, seemed decent. But thier little to big for my battery compartment. Sok are sold for $849 out of the interior. I finding it hard make the decision, as sok,aolithium are better, even renogy seem good, they use pouch cells which Apparently have less life cycles.
@@notreallyhere7719 I'm currently working on a review of a newer model AOLithium battery 12V100Ah-4S aolithium.com/products/12v-100ah-4s-lithium-battery-with-bluetooth They changed a few things and made it capable to series 4 vs 2. Here was my previous review www.loveyourrv.com/aolithium-battery-demo-review-100ah-12v-lifepo4-with-bluetooth-app/ They look very well built, and the company seems to be trying to respond to reviewers complaints. They fixed the terminals that were recessed in the older model so it can more easily handle larger lugs and adjusted the high amp shutdown protection. They sell the older model by the looks of it on Amazon.ca for $729 amzn.to/3nRpjWz, but unfortunately, ships from the USA so adds $120 Cheers, Ray
I think the fan noise and the 85% efficiency is the reason not to buy one. Good price and return policy. Good video Ray !
good review. I have been using the renongy 3000w and looks to be a very similar unit. nice being able to run the microwave even for a few minutes to heat water.
I'm pretty sure Samlex makes the inverters for Canadian Tire. They are very good inverters as you attested to your 10 year lifespan on the 1000W. They have manufacturing facilities in several countries including the U.S., Canada, and China, etc.
This company seems to be the most similar looking I've found reliableinverters.com/collections/pure-sine-wave-inverters Some differences in the hardware but the layout of it looks near the same.
Some of your voltage drop was probably coming from the battery cables. check your voltage drop across the battery cable between battery and inverter. I am running 1/0 cables for a 2,000 watt inverter changer using high quality cables and the voltage drop was significant before I upgraded the wiring run. 200+ amps is a lot for cheap 1/0 cables.
Yes, was surprised that's what they included. I have 2/0 in my RV for my battery bank and inverter so should make a difference when wired up in there.
Just out of interest here is what the owners manual says for cable gauge and length www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/3000W-inverter-manual-crop-scaled.jpg
I believe it but I have some good 1/0 welding cable from Windy Nation that runs a 2,000 watt inverter charger. My run is less than 12 inches. I would not want to use cheap 1/0 cables for a 3,000 watt inverter without checking the voltage drop. Also, I had the same ANL fuse holder and it had a significant voltage drop
Great info Ray. thx
This is very good - I'm wanting to go solar
Looks like a nice unit. They are normally installed in big trucks. Please test the 1/0(one aught) cable for heat. It needs to stay below 90C to keep from deteriorating the insulation. It’s going to take lots of batteries to get that much power for any length of time.
I found the cables seem a little thin for the job as well. Maybe they get away with it using short cables only 3 feet long. Here is what is printed in the manual for cable gauge and length www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/3000W-inverter-manual-crop-scaled.jpg Seems a little optimistic. :)
I'll be installing the inverter into my existing system, which has around 2-foot long 2/0 cables for the inverter powered by 4 LiFePO 105 Ah batteries. It should be OK as I'll only be running loads around 2000 watt max and for short durations. I'm not planning on using the inverter to run the AC for hours at a time. Mostly just appliances like the microwave. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV Based on table 310.15(B)(17) single conductor in open air and 85C of the NEC at 90C insulation 2/0 would work for up to 300 amperes. I’m thinking you are on the right path. Their table of increasing for 6’ to 10’ is to offset voltage drop at 12 volts.
Best wishes Sir! Kevin
Was testing out a lithium battery today and did a 100 amp discharge test for about 50 mins. Negative remained pretty cool, only slight heat could be felt but the cheap fuse block was starting to heat up noticeably then it transferred some of that heat down the positive cable. That is the weakest link in their setup.
What timing Ray. I just picked up a new 2022 Grand Design Momentum 25G and the 1000w Inverter (Magnum) is pretty wimpy and was planning to replace it. I'm a VIctron fan but they don't make any Phoenix 120v 2000W-3000W inverters (they are all 230v). The Multiplus are nice but way overpriced for what I need (right now at least). I think I'll join you and give this one a try since it is on sale. Please keep us updated on your website (or here) on what you find with it. I especially like the remote display panel, the Magnum units Grand Design uses don't have that.
Ok I took the plunge, can't go wrong with 24 payments no interest at CTC with their Mastercard. My trailer only has 1/0 cables at present but well below 6 feet, will look at upgrading them to 2/0 in the future.
Cool, what type and how many batteries do you have in the trailer?
@@LoveYourRV Right now just the stock 12v 100AH Deep Cell so can't really utilize the entire inverter (yet) but honestly I just needed a little more than the 1000W included can handle for short loads (even the Kurig ramps to 1500-1600 watts on startup, was too much for the 1000W). I do have some Renogy 12v 100AH LifePO4 in my house system I could move over to the RV but will likely wait and jump on a Battleborn (so I can serial them one day, Renogy can't do serial). Though I must admit the Renogy large 12v 200ah would fit in the space under our bed would be a possibility.
Need to check out some of the LifePO4 you have tested (I'm in Ontario so need to find local suppliers).
I have a feeling a single lead acid battery will really struggle with that Kurig load. Guess it will depend on how long it runs and how charged up the lead acid is. 200AH of lithium either a single or two batteries in parallel should do the job well as it will give about 200 amps max discharge rate. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV Did some reading up on the inverter and your right, the efficiency is a tad low compared to others. No idea how much the "Canada Proof" Lead can support but I see the Renogy 100ah can only sustain 100A (1C) of discharge and since I don't have the new bank yet, I might as well wait and see what I built first. With 1000W I'm safe with the current battery.
I have this inverter running a solar setup the max dc input voltage is 16vdc but autoresets and alarms at 16vdc had to adjust my charge controller not to to charge past 13.9vdc then it works fine.
I have my solar chargers set for 14.2V and my DC-DC and converter charger at 14.4V. I'm charging lithium batteries. When the batteries reach near full, the voltage can reach 14.6V for a short period, and the inverter hasn't shut down. Used it extensively off-grid last winter without issue.
Another great review Ray.
I love that no matter how little of a storage space you have, Ray will have room for an oscilloscope. :). This coming from an automation electrician, so I get it :)
Also how do they get away with 1/0 150 amp wires with a 300 amp load rating?
Actually, it was in my local storage room with some other tools I've hung onto, but it is quite a small light unit.
I found the cables seem a little thin as well, but that is what they listed in the manual as well. Maybe they get away with it using short cables only 3 feet long. Looking at online sizing seems to be all over the map. Some sites are recommending 4/0. On the other end of the spectrum. Here is a Home Depot 12' set of 1/0. Says for inverters up to 4000W and lists 345 amps max. www.homedepot.com/p/Power-Bright-0-AWG-Gauge-12-ft-Professional-Cables-Recommended-for-Use-with-Inverters-up-to-4000-Watt-0AWG12/300259717 Seem overly optimistic! :)
I'll be installing the inverter into my existing system, which has around 2-foot long 2/0 cables for the inverter. It should be OK as I'll only be running loads around 2000 watt max and for short durations. I'm not planning on using the inverter to run the AC for hours at a time. Mostly just appliances like the microwave. Cheers, Ray
Just out of interest here is what the owners manual says for cable gauge and length www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/3000W-inverter-manual-crop-scaled.jpg
Cool
Good test & video. As your voltage was dropping your amps should (were) be going up. Was this on the output side of the inverter ? This could be an issue in the output going into the trailer for items like A/C. I do not know the specific voltage / amps, but my camping friend blew his a/c out at a park with poor electric service on a very hot day as everyone was drawing a lot of current running their a/c units. Not enough voltage & too many amps. He now owns a very good surge protector. He insisted I get one as well, which I did. It has tripped a few times, so it may be a good thing to have. Most think a voltage spike is all they have to worry about, but it works the other way as well. Keep the product reviews coming...
I've had one since 2012 www.loveyourrv.com/progressive-industries-model-ems-hw30c/ It will kick the power off if the line voltage drops below 104 VAC. It's done it a few times, usually in sketchy old RV parks that don't' have the power to adequately provide for when everyone running ACs or heaters.
Thank you for including the oscilloscope graph! I'm looking to get one of these myself, how's it been running?
Its been running well. I installed it into the trailer 2 months ago ua-cam.com/video/QEqHrIQuI8U/v-deo.html and have bookdocked several weeks in that time with no issues so far.
Installing a 3000 watt inverter along with a transfer switch and the Waco auto detect converter. Also putting in a couple of SOK 206 batteries. I know, a lot at one time. Anyway got to the test stage. Everything looking good except turning off the converter breaker also shuts off the AC outlets and the fridge. Apparently, Keystone(I have the same year and model 5th wheel as Ray) put the 3 circuits on the same breaker. Have to pick up another breaker tomorrow. Anyone else seen this problem?
Here was my install with transfer switch ua-cam.com/video/QEqHrIQuI8U/v-deo.html My Cougar has dedicated 15 amp breaker for the converter
@@LoveYourRV looking at your video again I see your dedicated breaker for the converter. My rig lacks that. So just hooked it up the way the old one was. I used the existing wire nut, which has the wire coming from the converter. I didn't know what the other wire was supplying. Now I know. I see the wire nut in your video, but I can't make out what you did with that. Did you disconnect the wires and install in separate breakers?
Thanks
Bob Price
That wire nut actually went nowhere on OEM install, but I used it for a power meter I installed a while back when I spent the winter in BC and wanted to have a meter showing input amps. Here is that video ua-cam.com/video/9AyjUJyMrJw/v-deo.html
@@LoveYourRV Thanks Ray, really appreciate the feedback. One of the reasons I like your channel. So I'm just going to pick up another breaker and pull the inverted power to it. Leave the other wire where it is.
thanks again.
Bob Price
My inverter gave off a burning smell. Now it turns on but anything plugged into it has no power. What could this be? Maybe internal fuses? Do you just open up the unit and change the fuses?
It's hard to say exactly what it is as it can be so many things, but I'd try to find what component or wire burned, and then you may be able to figure out why. If a fuse is open, you could try changing it, but it may just open again if there is a short circuit.
Well I think it’s coming back on cell. Just noticed the flyer today. How has it been so far Ray?
So far its worked well. I ended up wiring it into my transfer switch ua-cam.com/video/QEqHrIQuI8U/v-deo.html Been mostly camping off grid since mid October so has had lots of sustained use.
Hey I just bought this unit for our off grid cabin just wondering if you know it won't run the wife's blender . It a vita mix 1200w 50,60 Hz . Is it because the inverter only goes down to 60Hz any way I'm happy with it it runs the washing machine ,saves me generator time !!)
Why are you using a 50hz blender? Usually 50 HZ is used in Europe and Asia where voltage is 240V. North America uses 120VAC 60 HZ
Thanks for sharing Ray! Like #225 view 1669
Would this run a 1/2 hp sump pump ?
It should be able to easily run it once it's going, the start-up is the iffy part. Pump motors take a significant inrush amperage to start them up so can't say for sure. I tried it with my air conditioner and it failed to start the compressor. I installed a soft starter device and then it was able to.
Sorry autoresets at 14vdc
I have my solar chargers set for 14.2V and my DC-DC and converter charger at 14.4V. I'm charging lithium batteries. When the batteries reach near full, the voltage can reach 14.6V for a short period, and the inverter hasn't shut down. Used it extensively off-grid last winter without issue.