I always thought if ever I was granted three wishes, I'd waste one of them to be able to sit down with the designer/engineers who decide things, and ask them- "would the looks or functionality been completely ruined if you had made the frame tubes a centimetre or two further away from a hideously difficult to remove part that always needs to been removed/reinstalled? Couldn't you have taken a few minutes to design the airbox in such a way as to be easily slid back an inch, or tilted back or something?" And then give them a good slap.
After taking these carbs off many times I've always thought this. Also why didn't they design the airbox to collapse, come in parts, anything but be rigid with lots of room just just out of reach!
A tip I picked up from Allen millyards channel was to clean up the jets in brass clock makers cleaning solution,leave them in that for around 20 minutes,not only does it leave the brass looking like new,it melts the varnish from old fuel,only thing is leave it outside because it does pong a bit, but it’s really effective as a cleaner
I always used to replace float bowl screws with Allen head screws - some old carbs the screws were totally seized and almost impossible to get out. No problem with Allen heads.
Don’t know if anyone else has mentioned this- a hairdryer set to warm/hot i find is really helpful when trying to get old air box and carb rubbers back in place.
I'm glad it's not just we plebs who fight to get carbs in and out. If Jim is struggling then I feel so much better at the fights I've had with my FZ1 (Fazer 1000) doing the same job.
If you're stuck for pointy things to clean jets of varnish you can hold the jet in pliers and burn a lighter underneath, 1 puff of smoke and it'll be clear, been doing it that way for 40yrs
@@TwoWheeledPotato Probably because putting a flame to a carb is a no no from the start, it contains flammable liquid. My only other thoughts are about damage to the jet caused by heat but I doubt that a lighter could do that? Unlike with say a propane torch.
I have a GPX750R that has the same style of carb rubbers.... Hell on toast. I tried evergreen/isoprop mixture to soften the rubbers which is pretty effective, though they go hard again. Then I found reproduction one being sold in Japan by a company called cruzinimage Got a full set of airbox intakes and carb intakes (all 8 pieces) for $118.95 shipped. It was utterly worth it. I can take my carbs in and out in minutes now They do them for the GPZ900R
Half a bottle of rum chased down with a Mcd's, at least the rum won't kill you as quick 🤣 Lovely example of a GPZ, I remember when they first arrived back in the 80s. Thanx for posting 👍
We/I like to watch guys or girls fixing bikes and struggles with them for hours. I think no needs to edit it out short. If someone's bored of it just fast forward it. We do love watching you struggling and swearing. 😂😂😅😅
Another tool i have for clearing jets is a guitarists nut file set which range from .008 up to .056 . Being a guitarist,it was the first thing came into my head to dislodge any dirt,cheap item too.
Nice work Jim, and you didnt nic the side of the engine as the carbs came out, good man... My old FZS1000 have the same bloody issue getting carbs out, but unlike the Ninja, the inside of the air box is very accessable, as it has a large removeable top so you can push the airbox rubbers into the box etc, then after installing the carbs into the inlets, just push the rubbers back out through the holes and onto the carbs. Also you can move the airtbox back about 2-3cm to allow some clearance, but the above method is far easier and faster and was always what I did. Top tip on the 3dprinter wire cleaning tool!
great bikes and that one is a very nice example credit to the owner . back in the day i bought thr GPZ 750 uni track as i just could not afford the 900 GPZ .
Hello Jim. Just for your reference. I have found acupuncture needles for getting stubborn bits out of carb passages work really well. They are 0.007” diameter if I remember correctly and have a sort of spring handle on the end of them. They are stainless steel and very flexible and don’t break off down in some passageway. Got a handful from my friendly neighbour acupuncturist. They work great. Best Regards from Canada.
Jimmy, I love watching your videos brother. I work bikes as well and I feel your pain. Carb removal is a pain in the a$$! The worst carb removal in my experience is a Ninja 250. Only two carbs but no room at all. Keep up the great work! (Half a bottle of rum and a hot tub!? Sounds like a heck of a good time!)👍🇨🇦🍺
Prevention is the key here... with my 1989 Yamaha FZR (which literally goes out once a year) I just switch the fuel tap off about half a mile from home so the float bowls are well and truly empty when I get to the garage (wait for the engine to stall), and Robert's your fathers brother! No carbies getting blocked up with gummy goop!
Great video again cheers. I've got a 900r and must have had to take the carbs off 20 times + over the years. I used to take the rubbers out of the airbox to create room to slide the carbs out but.. top tip. You can roll the rubbers back over themselves and this creates easily enough room. You can also tip the carbs up vertically whilst still on the bike and remove all the float bowls and clean everything. Saves disconnecting the throttle cable.
There are some soft rubbery filaments available for 3D printing, do you think the motorcycle rubber hardening issue could be cured by printing new ones? It’s just a thought and yes ther are temperatures to consider and heat cycles, but it might provide some hope for classics. 👍 Thanks for the channel.
Came here for the comments about the carb rubbers ,,,,, Every mechanic watching and has done UJM carbs with old rubbers feels ur pain,,,, I have a hot air gun ( used for melting solder on printed circuits) ,,u can set the temp from 100 to 500 deg and change nozzle sizes so I stuff a bit of copper tube on it and it gets the hot air to small areas
Wow that’s a nice GPZ. Everyone I saw back in the day here in the US were red and black. Those were dead reliable bikes. Definitely worth keeping it running.
Had old Kz1000 1977 with rock hard airbox manifold rubbers. Bloody nightmare getting the carbs off and on. Did what you said by pushing them back into the air box but getting them back into place afterwards was a worst nightmare….lol Did something crazy and soaked the intake rubbers in brake fluid, one at time and kept taking them out checking on them. Believe it or not it did slightly softened them. I only tried it because I had a new old stock set on hand just in case I buggered them.
I am told you can soften intake boot rubbers by soaking them in stuff called wintergreen (Methyl salicylate). Not easily available in the UK unfortunately. Not a permanent fix either afaik. Heating them up too can help but you knew that.
Working on-scene out of a truck would limit some things that you'd do in the shop environment. I know you'd soak all the parts for 24hrs as it only makes sense to do everything right now while you have it out. I imagine guys who work on carbs learn that it's best to just do the whole thing 100% so you know you've done a complete job. I can see some mechanics cutting the corner, not properly doing the job & having to go thru pulling them out again and that has to suck pretty bad? I'm an old Heating - Air Cond mechanic who likes watching Pro's work on stuff ! That's what I see here.... thanks for the work/time. peace
Omg a Gpz 900 my dream or a zrx1100. I got a z750 and a 1965 b8. Love to add a gpz or zrx to my fleet. For jet cleaning get oxy acytle cleaning kit. Comes in a lil holder
And the FZ was technically the better bike, like the 1000 Exup was better than the Gsxr11, yet prices today don't reflect that, Yamaha prices stay low. Similar with GS1000 and Z1.
@@marksmallman4572 I bought the uni trac Gpz11 at discount because the gpz9 had just come out, replaced with a Gsxr1100K, had the 750 turbo and the B2 new as well. Really just don't like the modern stuff, nor the prices.
@@andicog but those old Yams rot horribly. Worse quality alloy than the others? And it's almost impossible to kill an oil cooled motor. To be fair, when it came out in the original half-faired colours, I thought the FZ750 was the most beautiful bike I'd ever seen. I'd have one if the opportunities arose.
@@steveclark.. 👌🏾Nothing.....nothing.....nothing.....EVERYTHINGOHMYGODMYBRAINCAN'TKEEPUP! 😄 That acceleration was *so* addictive. I never tried the Yamaha, Suzuki or Honda versions, but from what I've read, they were all a bit of a compromise and were missing that special 'something'. The Kawasaki had that in spades. 🎯
You have done a number of GPz 900 carbs n never mentioned the god awful anti icing carb mod Kawasaki recalled the bikes for..... I sent my lovely A1 in for the mod n was horrified at the result when I picked it up... God damned mess.
I was told after I’d rebuilt my carbs by the man who balanced them, I should have had the carbs Sonically cleaned? Maybe so as my J1 zx6r is running rough
I’ve got a 900r motor in an 83 gpz 550, not my conversion but done by a professional frame builder, I’m loathed to sell it as it’s a wolf in sheep’s clothing 😊
12:15 You could do a kind of "core" system. Buy replacement items that NEED to be as clean as possible for that engine/carb (if available). If you have a mobile job, swap the new items onto it and clean the old ones for the next job that uses those parts. You'd need to charge less for parts, but time and expertise is what pays you the most anyway, right?
I can tell you’re new to GPZ’s because you said proper brakes when you should have said it doesn’t have the said not the proper brakes with the anti dive. That are the more sort after and collectable ones and also look better. but you’re still learning. So I’ll help you out Warm the rubbers up with a heat gun they’ll go as supple has when they was new then use a rubber rejuvenator on the rubbers to protect them from future cracking or drying out and it makes them look new too. and you won’t damage the rubbers refitting the carb either Unlike the spray you put on that does the opposite if it’s alcohol base not bad if it’s paraffin based. I wouldn’t let you with in a mile of my bike nothing personal. Hey but that’s just me. But I agree they are very awkward. I would Personally have stored it with octane free fuel in the carbs. That way you get no crud or glaze not over the winter anyway. Good job respect. You did a great job of the jets with out all the work shop tools you’d normally use. And the GPZ looks a beauty. We know s#it pump fuel is the problem. Tell the owner to buy some rubber protector. Save him a lot of money in the future a lot of the rubber parts are unavailable or over priced by tenfold. Cheers
Hi Jim Just a quick question what thickness are your nitrile gloves and do they last okay. I have some rocket branded gloves but too thin and rip easily. Cheers Paul
Knowing the owner, can you inquire as to what petrol type he has been using? E5 that's ethanol-free, E5 with up to 5% ethanol or E10 with up to 10% ethanol? Most motorcyclists I know of, including myself, are fanatics about the petrol we put into our bikes and will stick with one certain type. The answer could provide clues as to why the waxy hydrocarbon olefins diolefins and other unstable components in petrol hydrocarbons oxidized more quickly when mixed with ambient air.
To reduce and even prevent gummed up carbs, and injectors, regularly run carb cleaner fuel treatment, say every third tank of fuel, same for fuel injected bikes, or cars. Modern fuel is a terrible concoction of chemicals combined with the actual fuel, which oxidise and evaporate in air, leaving behind the stuff that blocks up small passages. Even worse now that ethanol is being blended with it, not only does that cause water damage, but it reacts with the other chemicals to create the jelly like stuff we often see. It's not so bad if the bike or car is used more or less every day, but any period of standing will cause problems. I also use fuel stabiliser in bikes if there's any fuel left in the tank before winter storage. Just add it to the tank, quick ride to mix it and run it through the fuel system, and it stops any problems during storage.
Google 'Method of inhibiting gum formation in stored hydrocarbon motor fuels - 1938 patent.' Thus, if hydrophilic ethanol reacts with hydrophobic hydrocarbons to cause more water damage and creates jelly like stuff, what was in gasoline between 1924 - 1938 when TEL lead, not ethanol was in gasoline, but there needed to be a patent on a product that prevented gasoline gum formation??? Or Google 'Aging effects on gasoline-ethanol blend properties and composition,' this on multiple Brazilian samples of up to 25% ethanol E25. Quoting them, "The authors found that the presence of cyclic olefins in gasoline activate gum formation...It was found that the higher the ethanol concentration in gasoline, the higher the fuel density and THE LOWER THE GUM CONTENT." Cyclic olefins are waxy hydrocarbon substances added to gasoline.
Painted carbs and painted calipers, just why?. At least these are factory paint, even worse when someone has rattle canned them and the petrol starts to lift the paint. Same with calipers, people paint over hard anodised calipers and the brake fluid spilt when bleeding takes the paint off.
Can I just suggest I got a old number plate with a spray of wd40 on it place engine side of carb on to plate push carbs in and pull number plate out job done wish I took a video of it dead easy
I always thought if ever I was granted three wishes, I'd waste one of them to be able to sit down with the designer/engineers who decide things, and ask them- "would the looks or functionality been completely ruined if you had made the frame tubes a centimetre or two further away from a hideously difficult to remove part that always needs to been removed/reinstalled? Couldn't you have taken a few minutes to design the airbox in such a way as to be easily slid back an inch, or tilted back or something?" And then give them a good slap.
After taking these carbs off many times I've always thought this. Also why didn't they design the airbox to collapse, come in parts, anything but be rigid with lots of room just just out of reach!
Try working aeroplanes. 😂
The float bowl screws are knackered because everyone thinks they are a Phillips head but they are JIS
A tip I picked up from Allen millyards channel was to clean up the jets in brass clock makers cleaning solution,leave them in that for around 20 minutes,not only does it leave the brass looking like new,it melts the varnish from old fuel,only thing is leave it outside because it does pong a bit, but it’s really effective as a cleaner
I always used to replace float bowl screws with Allen head screws - some old carbs the screws were totally seized and almost impossible to get out. No problem with Allen heads.
Me too but watch out for the temptation to over tighten them. It's way easier to get that wrong with an allen key than with a screwdriver.
Love older Japanese bikes Jim..I,ve got a 1989 Suzuki gsxr1100k.had it since 1990... would never change it...
Don’t know if anyone else has mentioned this- a hairdryer set to warm/hot i find is really helpful when trying to get old air box and carb rubbers back in place.
Beautiful bike, never knew Kawi produced them for that long.
I'm glad it's not just we plebs who fight to get carbs in and out. If Jim is struggling then I feel so much better at the fights I've had with my FZ1 (Fazer 1000) doing the same job.
If you're stuck for pointy things to clean jets of varnish you can hold the jet in pliers and burn a lighter underneath, 1 puff of smoke and it'll be clear, been doing it that way for 40yrs
That's a good idea.
I like how old school that is! 👍
Or pull one of the wires off a wire brush!
You know, i'm surprised i haven't worked this out, makes sense that it'd work though. I'll remember this :) thanks.
@@TwoWheeledPotato Probably because putting a flame to a carb is a no no from the start, it contains flammable liquid. My only other thoughts are about damage to the jet caused by heat but I doubt that a lighter could do that? Unlike with say a propane torch.
I have a GPX750R that has the same style of carb rubbers.... Hell on toast.
I tried evergreen/isoprop mixture to soften the rubbers which is pretty effective, though they go hard again.
Then I found reproduction one being sold in Japan by a company called cruzinimage Got a full set of airbox intakes and carb intakes (all 8 pieces) for $118.95 shipped. It was utterly worth it. I can take my carbs in and out in minutes now
They do them for the GPZ900R
Half a bottle of rum chased down with a Mcd's, at least the rum won't kill you as quick 🤣 Lovely example of a GPZ, I remember when they first arrived back in the 80s. Thanx for posting 👍
That's a tidy looking bike for its year. Little diamond 💎
I love your diagnostics direct no bs, subbed!
We/I like to watch guys or girls fixing bikes and struggles with them for hours. I think no needs to edit it out short. If someone's bored of it just fast forward it.
We do love watching you struggling and swearing. 😂😂😅😅
Half a bottle of Rum ... knowing what you had to do the following day.....
Another tool i have for clearing jets is a guitarists nut file set which range from .008 up to .056 . Being a guitarist,it was the first thing came into my head to dislodge any dirt,cheap item too.
Nice work Jim, and you didnt nic the side of the engine as the carbs came out, good man...
My old FZS1000 have the same bloody issue getting carbs out, but unlike the Ninja, the inside of the air box is very accessable, as it has a large removeable top so you can push the airbox rubbers into the box etc, then after installing the carbs into the inlets, just push the rubbers back out through the holes and onto the carbs. Also you can move the airtbox back about 2-3cm to allow some clearance, but the above method is far easier and faster and was always what I did.
Top tip on the 3dprinter wire cleaning tool!
Taking the carbs out of my Zephyr was the same nightmare 😂
Just a thought but how about an epic video with rabbit holes, tangents and swearage.😅
Yes absolutely, or an edited compilation of Jim's videos 😂
Just subscribed forgot how many I’ve watched in the last 48 hours brilliant content stop waffling bob
great bikes and that one is a very nice example credit to the owner . back in the day i bought thr GPZ 750 uni track as i just could not afford the 900 GPZ .
Hello Jim. Just for your reference. I have found acupuncture needles for getting stubborn bits out of carb passages work really well. They are 0.007” diameter if I remember correctly and have a sort of spring handle on the end of them. They are stainless steel and very flexible and don’t break off down in some passageway. Got a handful from my friendly neighbour acupuncturist. They work great. Best Regards from Canada.
If you play guitar..old strings..string trimmings..
I enjoy listening to your thoughts
having had carb probs on my last bike I enjoy watching and learning from you and from many of the comments.
I don’t suppose you could take another road trip over here, to Western Australia, and sort out the brakes and carbs on my ‘85 GPz900r?😢
thanks for the printer tip Just ordered one!
Are all carbs basically the same? Like if you successfully strip and clean a set of carbs can you do them all?
great job as always lad keep up the great work
Stunning bike! Tom Cruise dreams about this one haha
Jimmy, I love watching your videos brother. I work bikes as well and I feel your pain. Carb removal is a pain in the a$$! The worst carb removal in my experience is a Ninja 250. Only two carbs but no room at all. Keep up the great work! (Half a bottle of rum and a hot tub!? Sounds like a heck of a good time!)👍🇨🇦🍺
Prevention is the key here... with my 1989 Yamaha FZR (which literally goes out once a year) I just switch the fuel tap off about half a mile from home so the float bowls are well and truly empty when I get to the garage (wait for the engine to stall), and Robert's your fathers brother! No carbies getting blocked up with gummy goop!
Macca's make the worst coffee on the planet. I would have gone for hair of the dog.
Agree about old rubber items. I soak them in brake fluid.
Im going to try that next time round !
Wintergreen oil and pure alcohol is the answer.
Buying new is the best answer
@@bearcatracing007 What when no company makes them?
I'm amazed that no one has bothered to produce ones to fit this bike??
@@steveclark.. zpower UK has them in stock
Hey Jim.....can we see some more of your beautiful XSR 900 in action....maybe a start up and test ride so we can hear that exhaust?.....
Nice video Jim, finish that bottle later to make yourself feel better
Great video again cheers. I've got a 900r and must have had to take the carbs off 20 times + over the years. I used to take the rubbers out of the airbox to create room to slide the carbs out but.. top tip. You can roll the rubbers back over themselves and this creates easily enough room. You can also tip the carbs up vertically whilst still on the bike and remove all the float bowls and clean everything. Saves disconnecting the throttle cable.
CruzinImage in Japan does reproductions... Brilliant investment, your knuckles will thank you
Fitted GPZ900 carbs on my Zephyr 1100 made quite a difference.
There are some soft rubbery filaments available for 3D printing, do you think the motorcycle rubber hardening issue could be cured by printing new ones? It’s just a thought and yes ther are temperatures to consider and heat cycles, but it might provide some hope for classics. 👍 Thanks for the channel.
It would need to be fuel and oil resistant too
Nice one, the fight is real....
Came here for the comments about the carb rubbers ,,,,, Every mechanic watching and has done UJM carbs with old rubbers feels ur pain,,,, I have a hot air gun ( used for melting solder on printed circuits) ,,u can set the temp from 100 to 500 deg and change nozzle sizes so I stuff a bit of copper tube on it and it gets the hot air to small areas
Easy compared to old V4 Hondas with hard rubbers.
@@markpavletich747I couldn’t agree more, I’ve finally got it sorted on my RC24 just in time to never have to do it again
I hope your customer keeps that tax disc. Dont seen many of them around anymore either. It adds to the authenticity of the bike.
The best thing I ever did was buy a bike with fuel injection,I do not miss the periodic battle with carburettors one little bit!.
The airbox rubber and inlet rubber on my 05 KTM 640 were hard and full of splits. I changed those last year.
To keep rubbers soft and supple at 205 and rub it with a cloth or spray it on with a pump sprayer 👍
Wow that’s a nice GPZ. Everyone I saw back in the day here in the US were red and black. Those were dead reliable bikes. Definitely worth keeping it running.
Had old Kz1000 1977 with rock hard airbox manifold rubbers. Bloody nightmare getting the carbs off and on. Did what you said by pushing them back into the air box but getting them back into place afterwards was a worst nightmare….lol Did something crazy and soaked the intake rubbers in brake fluid, one at time and kept taking them out checking on them. Believe it or not it did slightly softened them. I only tried it because I had a new old stock set on hand just in case I buggered them.
Lovely bike
I am told you can soften intake boot rubbers by soaking them in stuff called wintergreen (Methyl salicylate). Not easily available in the UK unfortunately. Not a permanent fix either afaik. Heating them up too can help but you knew that.
Prolly america only? and if soem they maybe on amazon/ebay...
Brake fluid 👌🏻
@@richnorris1061I'm wondering if applying a thin coat of red rubber grease or silicone grease once a year would keep them supple?!
I have used this and it does work. No major issue getting it in the UK.
Guitar strings work for pointy things too
You can get the rubbers from Japan and they are not that expensive
They are $28 a pop here in USA new OEM from Kawasaki.
Jim when u go for a road test u will have to go and chase a fighterjet
My favourite bike! Had 4 of them in the last few years
Crashed it at cadwell on the mountain 🤦
Working on-scene out of a truck would limit some things that you'd do in the shop environment. I know you'd soak
all the parts for 24hrs as it only makes sense to do everything right now while you have it out. I imagine guys who
work on carbs learn that it's best to just do the whole thing 100% so you know you've done a complete job. I can
see some mechanics cutting the corner, not properly doing the job & having to go thru pulling them out again and
that has to suck pretty bad? I'm an old Heating - Air Cond mechanic who likes watching Pro's work on stuff !
That's what I see here.... thanks for the work/time. peace
Wow that Kwak was minty good. Unlike you on your post half bottle of rum gig lol 🤣
Very nice example 👍
Sounds like your next to a motorway!!
Omg a Gpz 900 my dream or a zrx1100. I got a z750 and a 1965 b8. Love to add a gpz or zrx to my fleet. For jet cleaning get oxy acytle cleaning kit. Comes in a lil holder
Ah, the classic GPZ900R! I road the first one when it first came out... ended up with a FZ750 instead (back in the day).
Rode is ridding, Road is where you ride it.
And the FZ was technically the better bike, like the 1000 Exup was better than the Gsxr11, yet prices today don't reflect that, Yamaha prices stay low. Similar with GS1000 and Z1.
I had a GPZ 900R, bought around 1989, kept it for 10 years, never missed a beat, changed the calipers for Harrison 6 pots ,awesome bike.
@@marksmallman4572 I bought the uni trac Gpz11 at discount because the gpz9 had just come out, replaced with a Gsxr1100K, had the 750 turbo and the B2 new as well. Really just don't like the modern stuff, nor the prices.
@@andicog but those old Yams rot horribly. Worse quality alloy than the others? And it's almost impossible to kill an oil cooled motor. To be fair, when it came out in the original half-faired colours, I thought the FZ750 was the most beautiful bike I'd ever seen. I'd have one if the opportunities arose.
🥲
Miss my 750 Turbo.
That thing was wild. Especially when trying to go round corners. 😁
Can't beat a big Kwaka.
I owned one of those too, the only turbo motorcycle that really worked well.
@@steveclark..
👌🏾Nothing.....nothing.....nothing.....EVERYTHINGOHMYGODMYBRAINCAN'TKEEPUP! 😄
That acceleration was *so* addictive.
I never tried the Yamaha, Suzuki or Honda versions, but from what I've read, they were all a bit of a compromise and were missing that special 'something'.
The Kawasaki had that in spades. 🎯
Seen unwound stranded copper conductors used to unblock jets, comes in various gauges...
Soaking old rubber parts in automatic transmission fluid works , nothing worse than vulcanised rubber 👍
You have done a number of GPz 900 carbs n never mentioned the god awful anti icing carb mod Kawasaki recalled the bikes for..... I sent my lovely A1 in for the mod n was horrified at the result when I picked it up... God damned mess.
I had one ,gave me a hernia trying to lift the back end ,like a tank compared to todays stuff
Dental gum cleaners work as well for cleaning jets
I use heat gun on low to soften carb rubber.
I think you will find those 3D printer jet cleaning wires are actually acupuncture needles!
I was told after I’d rebuilt my carbs by the man who balanced them, I should have had the carbs Sonically cleaned?
Maybe so as my J1 zx6r is running rough
I’ve got a 900r motor in an 83 gpz 550, not my conversion but done by a professional frame builder, I’m loathed to sell it as it’s a wolf in sheep’s clothing 😊
Does this guy live right next to a motorway?I couldn’t put up with that road noise!
These "special" needels seem to be accupuncture needles. I use the same and they were given me as such. 🌞🌞
I use Sta-bil fuel stabilizer.by gold eagle co.chicago..no fuel issues when bike is off road for winter...
12:15 You could do a kind of "core" system.
Buy replacement items that NEED to be as clean as possible for that engine/carb (if available). If you have a mobile job, swap the new items onto it and clean the old ones for the next job that uses those parts. You'd need to charge less for parts, but time and expertise is what pays you the most anyway, right?
Would fuel stabilizer and better quality fuel help prevent vanishing?
I can tell you’re new to GPZ’s because you said proper brakes
when you should have said it doesn’t have the said not the proper brakes with the anti dive. That are the more sort after and collectable ones and also look better.
but you’re still learning. So I’ll help you out Warm the rubbers up with a heat gun they’ll go as supple has when they was new then use a rubber rejuvenator on the rubbers to protect them from future cracking or drying out and it makes them look new too.
and you won’t damage the rubbers refitting the carb either
Unlike the spray you put on that does the opposite if it’s alcohol base not bad if it’s paraffin based.
I wouldn’t let you with in a mile of my bike nothing personal.
Hey but that’s just me. But I agree they are very awkward.
I would Personally have stored it with octane free fuel in the carbs. That way you get no crud or glaze not over the winter anyway. Good job respect. You did a great job of the jets with out all the work shop tools you’d normally use. And the GPZ looks a beauty. We know s#it pump fuel is the problem. Tell the owner to buy some rubber protector. Save him a lot of money in the future a lot of the rubber parts are unavailable or over priced by tenfold. Cheers
Jet cleaner tip, guitar strings.
She's in good nic for her age 👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Jim Just a quick question what thickness are your nitrile gloves and do they last okay.
I have some rocket branded gloves but too thin and rip easily.
Cheers
Paul
This might seem like a stupid question, but I just gotta ask. Why do people in the UK call the "z" a zed?
Knowing the owner, can you inquire as to what petrol type he has been using? E5 that's ethanol-free, E5 with up to 5% ethanol or E10 with up to 10% ethanol? Most motorcyclists I know of, including myself, are fanatics about the petrol we put into our bikes and will stick with one certain type. The answer could provide clues as to why the waxy hydrocarbon olefins diolefins and other unstable components in petrol hydrocarbons oxidized more quickly when mixed with ambient air.
Would it be worth heat gunning the rubbers prior to removal and installation .
What if you warm the rubbers up with a hair dryer to soften them ?
What I wouldn't give to Own another GPZ 900A8.
Molding the silicone parts can be the only way 😉
Hot tub and rum on a school night is ok depending on what rum it was?
Why's the rum gone!
I have buy a GPZ900R A2 model also need carb rebuild fun stuf 😁😎👍
Jim do u think pod filters r better for service
Only 13,000 miles it’s not run in yet. I’ve got a Kawasaki GT 750 and I find careful use of a hot air gun works.
Did you ever get a Snap on JIS stubby screw driver ?
You can't beat fuel injection.
Airbox rubber boots . . USE A HEAT GUN to soften them up.
Simple as that.
Surprised, no one has scanned them and made replacements on a 3D printer.
You need to bottle and sell your carb soak. I'll buy some
I bet half a bottle of Rum & hot tub was a exceedingly good idea at the time though?
To reduce and even prevent gummed up carbs, and injectors, regularly run carb cleaner fuel treatment, say every third tank of fuel, same for fuel injected bikes, or cars. Modern fuel is a terrible concoction of chemicals combined with the actual fuel, which oxidise and evaporate in air, leaving behind the stuff that blocks up small passages. Even worse now that ethanol is being blended with it, not only does that cause water damage, but it reacts with the other chemicals to create the jelly like stuff we often see. It's not so bad if the bike or car is used more or less every day, but any period of standing will cause problems. I also use fuel stabiliser in bikes if there's any fuel left in the tank before winter storage. Just add it to the tank, quick ride to mix it and run it through the fuel system, and it stops any problems during storage.
Google 'Method of inhibiting gum formation in stored hydrocarbon motor fuels - 1938 patent.' Thus, if hydrophilic ethanol reacts with hydrophobic hydrocarbons to cause more water damage and creates jelly like stuff, what was in gasoline between 1924 - 1938 when TEL lead, not ethanol was in gasoline, but there needed to be a patent on a product that prevented gasoline gum formation???
Or Google 'Aging effects on gasoline-ethanol blend properties and composition,' this on multiple Brazilian samples of up to 25% ethanol E25. Quoting them, "The authors found that the presence of cyclic olefins in gasoline activate gum formation...It was found that the higher the ethanol concentration in gasoline, the higher the fuel density and THE LOWER THE GUM CONTENT." Cyclic olefins are waxy hydrocarbon substances added to gasoline.
I don’t believe I’ve ever seen a painted carburetor before, seems…….wrong.
Really?! It was common at one time, I've seen it on Yamaha dirt bikes, other Kwaks, Honda dirt bikes, and I'm sure many others.
Painted carbs and painted calipers, just why?. At least these are factory paint, even worse when someone has rattle canned them and the petrol starts to lift the paint. Same with calipers, people paint over hard anodised calipers and the brake fluid spilt when bleeding takes the paint off.
Can I just suggest I got a old number plate with a spray of wd40 on it place engine side of carb on to plate push carbs in and pull number plate out job done wish I took a video of it dead easy
soak the rubber buggers in diesel over night brings the rubber back from the dead
But is it ULEZ compliant??? 🤔🤔