Great video on the nut and saddle creation. Appreciate the tips and information your passing along. I like how you found a ruler that is about the correct thickness in marking your nut. I use a pencil cut in half, letting it rest on the first 2 frets and scribe a line. Seems to have about the same results you get with the ruler you use. I'll have to look around to see if I can find a ruler that will work as well. Always good to know 2 ways of doing something.
I’ve had the tonewood timber for a guitar for several years and never got around to constructing a guitar. I have just watched your video series from start to finish and have been inspired to give it a try. Thank you for producing such a comprehensive series of videos. I have many questions, but if I may can I ask your comment on a couple? When attaching the neck to the soundboard do you keep this flat and rely on the bridge height to create the action? (other luthiers I have seen suggest the neck should stick out around 3mm). I also found it intriguing that you curved the fretboard on a classical (my preference also), whereas tradition has it as flat and the fingerboard is planed down on the bass side to allow for the greater looping of the bass strings. I am assuming that with your method, this differential for the bass and treble strings at the 12th fret is essentially adjusted at the bridge? Once again many thanks for a great series of videos.
Thank you for the kind words. In answer to your questions; yes, the neck and the rim of the soundboard are all on the same plane. The soundboard is domed, so the middle of the soundboard ends up about 2 mm higher then the surface of the neck. Regarding the fretboard profile, that is a matter of choice. Traditional classical guitar players usually want to keep a flat fretboard, I think because it keeps the strings all on the same plane at the bridge. People who also play steel string guitars seem to prefer the radiused fretboard because it is easier to play barre chords and they don't mind that the bridge saddle is curved to the same radius.
Great video and instruction. Thanks for sharing Gary.
Thank you very much, Mike.
Great video on the nut and saddle creation. Appreciate the tips and information your passing along. I like how you found a ruler that is about the correct thickness in marking your nut. I use a pencil cut in half, letting it rest on the first 2 frets and scribe a line. Seems to have about the same results you get with the ruler you use. I'll have to look around to see if I can find a ruler that will work as well. Always good to know 2 ways of doing something.
Yes, it is always good to have more than one way of doing something. Thanks for watching.
I’ve had the tonewood timber for a guitar for several years and never got around to constructing a guitar. I have just watched your video series from start to finish and have been inspired to give it a try. Thank you for producing such a comprehensive series of videos. I have many questions, but if I may can I ask your comment on a couple? When attaching the neck to the soundboard do you keep this flat and rely on the bridge height to create the action? (other luthiers I have seen suggest the neck should stick out around 3mm). I also found it intriguing that you curved the fretboard on a classical (my preference also), whereas tradition has it as flat and the fingerboard is planed down on the bass side to allow for the greater looping of the bass strings. I am assuming that with your method, this differential for the bass and treble strings at the 12th fret is essentially adjusted at the bridge? Once again many thanks for a great series of videos.
Thank you for the kind words. In answer to your questions; yes, the neck and the rim of the soundboard are all on the same plane. The soundboard is domed, so the middle of the soundboard ends up about 2 mm higher then the surface of the neck. Regarding the fretboard profile, that is a matter of choice. Traditional classical guitar players usually want to keep a flat fretboard, I think because it keeps the strings all on the same plane at the bridge. People who also play steel string guitars seem to prefer the radiused fretboard because it is easier to play barre chords and they don't mind that the bridge saddle is curved to the same radius.
Thanks for taking the time to respond Gary
I melt the end of the nylon strings before tying them and no knot is needed.
@DougHinVA yes, that works too.