You are on to something, first off to the experts the sheer strength is well over 20,000 lbs each bolts . They will never fail under a car. The welds may look ugly but they too are mig welded and better than grind offs from China. Clamp jacks increase pressure over load and you are relying on a hardened cog and a weld to support the load. The bolts will outperform the clamp on any day. I have a suggestion. Make the unit smaller and use one extension. Find 4 points under the car and make legs that hinge down with no height adjustment . bolt unit to the frame and don't weld it . Now you have stands bolted to the car and hidden from view. All you need is to jack it up and fold down the stands. Good work on the prototype :D
You have to be careful when jacking on the pinch weld flange. Some cars have weak rocker panels and will bend upward when you jack on them. Another factor to consider is older cars where the rockers are rusted, they can totally cave in.
Enough nay sayers,.....I am making a ride on mower workstand and your idea for lifting it off the ground is exactly what I needed. I will incorporate some of what you did, thanks for sharing this!
Wow that's a pretty slick homemade invention. Even with a unibody front wheel drive car, there are more than enough suitable areas to put a jack underneath it. I think it's sad that some people don't know that and end up tearing up the rocker panels on their car. Hats off to the guy who made this though.
If you have ever jacked up a car from the sill panel jacking point you then have to look for a suitable point to place the jack stand. Finding a suitable place for a jack stand can be tricky on some modern cars that have full length under body plastic trays. I think this is a good idea.
I've been doing automotive work for over 30 years. I like the concept but It looks to unstable from side to side. Maybe if the bases were wider and they had some triangle side bracing welded on. Also current Jack stands only require one lever or bolt where your's requires two. Also the way it's lifted with the round pedestal in the middle shows that it won't come down even as it was leaning to one side when the jack was removed, I would just remove that part. I think it could work with some extra work, but with the current design I wouldn't crawl under that vehicle based on my experience in automotive repairs and using all kinds of stands. Thanks for sharing though. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
It's junk; pointless junk. It starts with the rig already under the car which means the car was somehow elevated previously so we're seeing step 2. Just not worth the bother. I have a general rule for YT videos to avoid anything with Genius, or Amazing, or Incredible, etc., in the title but unfortunately I let the thumbnail suck me in on this waste.
I would not trust the base looks like it could kick out and fall on you and how much weight can it Carry might be ok for a Honda but working under a rear wheel car transmission I would not trust them at all I would like to see at least 8" or 10" supports on the ground square so it won't tip over... I work on cars that weigh 2-3 tons ...
The entire weight of the car is now on those 2 bolts. Unlike a jack stand where the pressure actually holds the clamps tighter. What’s the weight rating on those bolts? I Wouldn’t trust my life under that car.
420CEO First those are pins not bolts,that is what they are designed for. Second you won't trust this which has 4 points of contact, but you will trust a jack stand with 1.
He bought those "pins" with threads js, at the dollar store, why wouldnt you trust them? Those welds though. Im not a welder so I know when someone else is not a welder.
Another key to making it safer is to take away the sharp points of holes once they have been drilled out like I learned in aircraft back in the day. Deburr/chamfer the holes on front with palm drill using slow rpms and on the inside of holes use a reversible countersink set sold from machinist site for deburring the inside holes. Then I noticed he drilled his holes from the side. I would have drilled holes on the front instead and locked out with steel pins from auto parts local store or local hardware store and get the kind with holes on the front of steel pin so I can put on safety hitch pin clips and good to go. Also on the top of stand you can buy parts separately from renjack stand for the pinch weld accessory or you can attach jackpuck to the top with modifications. Hope that info helps. Taking away sharp points on drill out is critical as they taught me in aircraft to prevent cracking later on by those sharp points. It's easy to deburr the outside holes but the inside takes a reversible countersink set. That tool set comes in handy.
I was going thru some comments and boy I tell you people have issues in this youtube channel bunch of HATERS ... Some probly dont even know how to weld did a great job keep posting videos ..
I like it very much!, these doubters obviously haven't done much jacking! The main problem it solves is there's only one place you should support the car! so you can't put the axle stands in the correct place...because that's where you put the jack. The car I have just bought has had the stiffening ridge folded flat by either garages or home mechanics using axle stands in the wrong place!
Personally I never Jack up my car or support it by the jacking points, I always use suspension mount areas like where your axle is bolted to the car by large bolts etc because that is very solid, jacking points are OK but with a lot of use they can start to bend and it also takes the paint/underseal off them causing rust to start.
As a mechanical engineer this is not a good design its far too short and needs to have adjustability to pick up under the sills as close to the wheels as possible. The use of a horizontal member is great but use commercial jack stands that are rated for certain loads and have a wide base for stability. Your support system is a failure from an engineering perspective.
Thanks for the idea, can anyone share a dseign for the new improvement that should be stronger and accident proof. So a crocodile jack is also essential in puttin up this support? Thank you very much. Henry Ruiz. Thè Philippines.
I need something like thisz. To be able to jack the entire front end up at once doesnt leave me any damn room to put jack stands in to support botg sides at same time so i got to do one side at a time.. if i had somethibg to go around the jack and lock as the jack rises than would cut 15 mins off trying to put my shit in the air..
Youd be surprised; bolts have and insanely high Straight Sheer strength. But yes.. Terrible welding. I still don't understand why he kept switching to stick, then back to mig, then stick welding again. Maybe to try and get a better bead? Ha
I have a couple of pto driven implements that use sheer pins. Bolts are in no way near the sheer strength of a pin. A sheer pin( which is made to sheer in the event of a lockup) has more sheer strength than a grade 2 bolt. This is risky.
Wayne: I don't see any pinholes or flux inclusions, and as long as he achieved full penetration all the way around, does the surface appearance matter that much to the strength of the joint?
This will make this person money. This may be a prototype. Yes, welds would need to be better, the feet would need to be longer/wider, bolts to be stronger, however, I was not convinced until I saw the application. Think about it. One has to adjust the hydroulic jack into the right spot. Use a platform, generally 2"×4''s or a 2"×6" , to get the right height for the jack to lift properly. Find a spot for the jack stands. Adjust the height of the jack and adjust the height of the jack stands to get a proper and safe base. This jack stand will take care of hassle once it is up to safety codes...
Just think of the cost of supplies too. They won't sell you a 2" piece of round stock. Have to buy 8'. Just like the rest of the materials. A better idea. Two jack stands. Use a piece of metal to connect the two tops of the jacks. etc.. you get the idea. Just make 2 stands one...
You should not lift by the pinch weld. The rocker around the pinch weld is reinforced and meant to take the load. You will eventually bend the pinch weld.
So this gives you one jack point rather than multiple. Anyone that knows what they’re doing won’t floor jack the weak spot of the pinch weld. They will hit the tranny mount, tow hook, frame, A arm bushing mount, etc...
lostintime86 you can't use 2 Jack stands, they are too high. Maybe if you have a 4x4 truck or suv that would work but not a car. German cars have to be jacked by the pinch welds.
Don't listen to the critique, point is, is it may need a little tweaking and better bolts and height but it's ideas and effort like this that makes people think and create new ideas. So, thank you.
The bolts are in "shear", no weight rating. However, a grade8 automotive bolt of 3/8" diameter (dia. of section with no threads ) would be sufficient for a three or four thousand pound vehicle. I was more concerned about the foot (base) of the jackstand- I prefer at least three legs on mine.
Good idea but one thing I would've done differently is cut up some jack stands for the supports. That way they would automatically lock when raising it.
Allen McKinney that is actually a great idea, but normally that would require a lot of ground clearance to begin with. try and watch the video fram safe jacks and you'll notice that the vertical bars are mounted at the end.
Good job! They'll go everywhere that Jack goes now. If you sat down and cranked out a half dozen of those, make em stack together real right, with bigger slide pins (Jesus! Enough about the tiny slide pins) That concept is so simple and sturdy! I love it! "Autodesk! I have an idea! " oh, on a side note, your welds? damn!! take a couple hrs. sit down and burn a couple a pounds of rod. 7018 when you need it to be strong. 6013,7014 when its a good fit and welded flat position (very fast and smooth) 6011,6010 when you're in an awkward position, and need an easier strike. Low amps bridges gaps, regular level amps penetrates well, highest amps for cutting and gouging (no shit, try it) overall, not a very strong weld, like 7018 & 11018. Have fun and thanks for the ideas!
heres the deal dude. If you want to protect the frame rail which is all you are doing with "your invention", go purchase a peice of steel about 16" by 16" , 1/8" thick, and slide it on top of your standard jackstand, and presto, your frame rail and underbelly will not get damaged. and it will be hell of alot safer. stick to jackstands they are used in the industry and built for the industry. I been using 1/8" thick steel plates for years on top of my jackstands and never had a safety issue and i never put any dents on my framerails either.
Yes pins would be a better idea. Or grade 8 bolts. Fortunately looks like the car weighs less then 2 tons. Also should have tacked the the tubing together to drill the holes, or drilled them separately.
Cool idea, Im not sure the V channel is needed as the lip of the pannel is not a lifting point. The lifting point is in behind the lip on most cars. I believe without the V wedge or channel this will work well behind the lip and do the job well.
A car never has only one "support point" . You should really jack a unibody car up by where the subframe bolts on , and if you have to then put the jack stand on reinforced rocker area ..
If I may make a suggestion Make the feet bigger . Make the whole thing a little wider and a little taller . bigger bolts because all the weight is relying on those bolts. Cut a small channel on top bracket for the angle iron to sit in so you're not relying on the welds
Before suggesting wider, understand trusses. That may very well introduce new problems. Purchase something that is certified and made by a responsible company. Live long and prosper.
like everyone else, don't trust those bolts!!!!! they are not designed to be loaded that way. Also you should re-engineer the base to be wider similar to a jack stand. Kudos for doing it yourself and making the videos. Don't let the comments discourage you and keep at it.
Joe HamRadioGuy. All he had to do was weld a 6 inch long piece of angle iron to the top of a Wal-Mart jack stand and had the same thing except safer and cheaper
I find i get better results with the mig using gasless wire if i take the nozzle off as you can see the weld a lot better. The nozzle is only there to shield the gas when using gas.
The big problem with this is that the weakest link is the bolts.... so the whole car will potentially be supported on two bolts. Should probably use thicker metal to support the vehicle.
well, I do agree that a jackstand with a wide base will allow more horizontal force, but if you think of his video as inspiration rather than then final design - I think its a good idea (but I also know that there is a commercial alternative safe-jack) but its helpfull to see others making stuff as inspiration.
Christian Andersen who are you trying to kid? This serves no other point other that an ugly jackstand! 99% of the stuff this person makes is a copy of an original or "HIS" version. These aren't " hacks", hacked up? Yeah but not hacks!
The upper corners 90 ° should have reinforcements with triangles, to eliminate rupture by possible oscillatory movements left and right. Do not forget that a car weighs 1.5 - 2 tons ...
Felicitaciones Dr. Hacker...Excelente sus Ideas e inventos ..!!! Muy útil para el taller. y facilitar el trabajo... los admiro.. Gracias por compartir... Saludos desde Ciudad de Camaná Perú Betito Producciones..
Only change to make is better bolts. If u don’t like this idea u haven’t spent much time under a vehicle trying not to run into jack stands every move u make. Good idea, it moves ur supports to the outer edge of vehicle.
I use a round log from our firewood pile about 18 inches in diameter, with 4 by 1 packers if needed, it can’t tip over or drop down. Also spreads the pressure on your chassis. Safe as houses. Nice welding job though.
Nice idea for unibody cars with very limited jacking area - most new cars only offer 5-8" of lifting area in the front and back - making jacking up the car and then placing jack stands very problematic - the jack is in the way... Although the execution of this design could be improved in several areas, the concept is actually quite practical for modern unibody cars. I would not use this on a full frame vehicle where jack or axle stands are easily applied...
Because he doesn't know how to mig weld properly. LOL he was making a mess with the mig. Watching the welding skills alone.. let alone the poor design, I would never get under a vehicle with that stand.
My 06 Sentra has stumped me for years as to how to raise the rear and use jack stands. (Thankfully the front has a central point obvious for a floor jack and two obvious jack stand points.) For the rear, to use the trunk jack under the seam like in the video there was no trustworthy place to put a jack stand. Recently, raising to replace an exhaust, I had the car slip off using the rear two "apparent" jack stand points, when one folded over. Finally after this latest incident I found I could put a stand sideways right behind the seam the scissor jack straddles that runs the length between the wheels, towards the rear wheel well. There is a little extra metal in that area. This also requires back and forth driver to passenger side steps. So I kind of admire this video integrating the jack stand with the floor jack. btw, I use the scissor jack on one side and a floor jack on the other, with the dish removed and a small vise slightly opened sitting over the hole where the dish fits, to straddle the seam under the car body. The stand however is so close to the floor jack it's barely possible to use together. I'd actually prefer two scissor jacks.
mark stone I understand your point. I suppose the vid would be directed to persons more like myself who have the necessary equipment or access to it, along with some knowledge on how to make some minor improvements to address the safety issues. I'm not a professional welder or fabricator of any sorts. Just fortunate to have some handy tools. Also, vids like these gives ideas on how to make use of scrap metal, which I also have alot of.
If you don't know how to make and/or use a jack stand, you should not try using the tools the sponsor ( or a "friend" sold you.! You could seriously injure yourself.
I did check it wasnt an April 1 version From the shape of the top piece he seems to think the whole seam is OK as a jacking point, didnt even place it in the designed spot
Never, EVER wear gloves when you're using a drill press. If the glove gets caught in the drill bit, well you can imagine what would happen to your hand!
If I had a choice to buy a regular jack stand which I have many or buy this. I would buy this. If you have a rusted unibody with only one spot to jack this is what you want. I would buy this over a regular jack.
Using setscrews instead of hardened steel pins to support the car's weight seems like a risk. Useful if space is restricted, where a jack and normal axle stand would conflict, but otherwise a lot of work for little benefit. Just the angle piece on top of the jack might be a good idea to spread the load when needing to raise under the sills. Remove jack saddle, and create a 'Y' from the angle and the pin.
OK somewhat clever, but the foot print is too small. TOO TIPPY. Also, since tou got the fabricobbling stuff, make a tool to actuate the valve on your jack.
mechanical engineer would give this guy a B plus just needs work most of the complainers whiners I'm guessing 30 year olds and living at home . this takes effort alot of you don't have a clue.
Not inservice Just because you put time and effort into a project doesn’t make it good or safe. You would trust your life under 2 ton car that’s being held up by two puny screws? Pins designed to handle sheer strength would at least make this safe. It’s still not a good idea when you can buy jack stands for dirt cheap.
Maybe if you do not have a jack. Just buy a set of ramps if your only doing oil changes or just need the car off the ground more or if your not taking off tyres. Are their cheap too ,I have both and a hoist
Ok based on the comments I thought, this was going to be a total waste of my time. But you may be on to something, I kind of like it. Good on Ya, way to think outside the box
i think its great... however, if its only two feet holding it, its not too save... you need four legs to hold it together.. i mean if it swings sideways i just do not feel too safe....
Ok Dr Hacker I'll give credit for thinking out side the "box" on this one but someone else has already been there done that. Please buy pins NOW!!!! I don't want hear that you were crushed under a car with them bolts......................
420CEO has a point....... get some really good grade 8 bolts... or something that will take a really high shear load! Those look like standard bulk bin bolts...
Nice job, but I believe it has limited application. To rotate tires on my family cars, I just went to Harbor freight and bought a second one ton floor jack for $29. I now have two floor jacks.That way I can jack up both wheels on the same side of the car and rotate them. Also, you can get a set of jackstands that are more heavy duty for $29
Two tons of truck that are supported by 2 bolts? What happens if the bolts shear off after repeated use? Jack stands are not that expensive. Plus not everyone has all that metal cutting equipment and welding equipment?
Dr. Hacker needs to invest in a chop saw. And if you build something like this please, please, please don't bet your life on Gr. 5 bolts -- go to TSC and get proper hitch pins. Make those base plates 50% longer, and use gussets.
Nice Idea but I would have made the feet cover more area and what is the hardest of those bolts they need to be unbreakable for the weight you use them for.
Hooray!!!! I just spent $50 on material plus about 3 hours of fabbing to make a jack stand!!!! Or I can go to harbor freight and buy a pair for $19.99!
What grade are those bolts?? I’d much rather use high strength pins but a nifty setup nonetheless.
One may use 8.8, 10.9 or 12.9 grade bolts, however ordinary M12 bolts may serve the purpose.
You are on to something, first off to the experts the sheer strength is well over 20,000 lbs each bolts . They will never fail under a car. The welds may look ugly but they too are mig welded and better than grind offs from China. Clamp jacks increase pressure over load and you are relying on a hardened cog and a weld to support the load. The bolts will outperform the clamp on any day. I have a suggestion. Make the unit smaller and use one extension. Find 4 points under the car and make legs that hinge down with no height adjustment . bolt unit to the frame and don't weld it . Now you have stands bolted to the car and hidden from view. All you need is to jack it up and fold down the stands. Good work on the prototype :D
You have to be careful when jacking on the pinch weld flange. Some cars have weak rocker panels and will bend upward when you jack on them. Another factor to consider is older cars where the rockers are rusted, they can totally cave in.
Enough nay sayers,.....I am making a ride on mower workstand and your idea for lifting it off the ground is exactly what I needed. I will incorporate some of what you did, thanks for sharing this!
Wow that's a pretty slick homemade invention. Even with a unibody front wheel drive car, there are more than enough suitable areas to put a jack underneath it. I think it's sad that some people don't know that and end up tearing up the rocker panels on their car. Hats off to the guy who made this though.
If you have ever jacked up a car from the sill panel jacking point you then have to look for a suitable point to place the jack stand. Finding a suitable place for a jack stand can be tricky on some modern cars that have full length under body plastic trays.
I think this is a good idea.
I've been doing automotive work for over 30 years. I like the concept but It looks to unstable from side to side. Maybe if the bases were wider and they had some triangle side bracing welded on. Also current Jack stands only require one lever or bolt where your's requires two. Also the way it's lifted with the round pedestal in the middle shows that it won't come down even as it was leaning to one side when the jack was removed, I would just remove that part. I think it could work with some extra work, but with the current design I wouldn't crawl under that vehicle based on my experience in automotive repairs and using all kinds of stands. Thanks for sharing though. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
It's junk; pointless junk. It starts with the rig already under the car which means the car was somehow elevated previously so we're seeing step 2. Just not worth the bother. I have a general rule for YT videos to avoid anything with Genius, or Amazing, or Incredible, etc., in the title but unfortunately I let the thumbnail suck me in on this waste.
I would not trust the base looks like it could kick out and fall on you and how much weight can it Carry might be ok for a Honda but working under a rear wheel car transmission I would not trust them at all I would like to see at least 8" or 10" supports on the ground square so it won't tip over... I work on cars that weigh 2-3 tons ...
The entire weight of the car is now on those 2 bolts. Unlike a jack stand where the pressure actually holds the clamps tighter. What’s the weight rating on those bolts? I Wouldn’t trust my life under that car.
420CEO First those are pins not bolts,that is what they are designed for. Second you won't trust this which has 4 points of contact, but you will trust a jack stand with 1.
Pins Huh??? 1:30
Those bolts aren't even grade 8. No way would I use that thing.
steve gibson II you don't know what you're talking about
He bought those "pins" with threads js, at the dollar store, why wouldnt you trust them? Those welds though. Im not a welder so I know when someone else is not a welder.
Another key to making it safer is to take away the sharp points of holes once they have been drilled out like I learned in aircraft back in the day. Deburr/chamfer the holes on front with palm drill using slow rpms and on the inside of holes use a reversible countersink set sold from machinist site for deburring the inside holes. Then I noticed he drilled his holes from the side. I would have drilled holes on the front instead and locked out with steel pins from auto parts local store or local hardware store and get the kind with holes on the front of steel pin so I can put on safety hitch pin clips and good to go. Also on the top of stand you can buy parts separately from renjack stand for the pinch weld accessory or you can attach jackpuck to the top with modifications. Hope that info helps. Taking away sharp points on drill out is critical as they taught me in aircraft to prevent cracking later on by those sharp points. It's easy to deburr the outside holes but the inside takes a reversible countersink set. That tool set comes in handy.
Re-title this video: The Widowmaker
Need big life insurance.
very cool idea ...great job !!
Every heard of harbor freight !! Life's easier when others do the work for you..
Harbor freight offers nothing like this at all.
I was going thru some comments and boy I tell you people have issues in this youtube channel bunch of HATERS ... Some probly dont even know how to weld did a great job keep posting videos ..
I like it very much!, these doubters obviously haven't done much jacking! The main problem it solves is there's only one place you should support the car! so you can't put the axle stands in the correct place...because that's where you put the jack. The car I have just bought has had the stiffening ridge folded flat by either garages or home mechanics using axle stands in the wrong place!
They don't do real work on their cars or they would see the use for this.
Personally I never Jack up my car or support it by the jacking points, I always use suspension mount areas like where your axle is bolted to the car by large bolts etc because that is very solid, jacking points are OK but with a lot of use they can start to bend and it also takes the paint/underseal off them causing rust to start.
A GREAT way to place support exactly under a lifting point and a genius way to lift and support along the rockers.
A waste of 7 minutes of my time. Just buy a set of jack stands.
walkerch ya 🤦🏻♂️
As a mechanical engineer this is not a good design its far too short and needs to have adjustability to pick up under the sills as close to the wheels as possible.
The use of a horizontal member is great but use commercial jack stands that are rated for certain loads and have a wide base for stability.
Your support system is a failure from an engineering perspective.
You could weld a bar with a drop peg across the top of two jack stands and get the same result but much safer.
Thanks, I might look into that !
Thanks for the idea, can anyone share a dseign for the new improvement that should be stronger and accident proof.
So a crocodile jack is also essential in puttin up this support?
Thank you very much.
Henry Ruiz.
Thè Philippines.
I need something like thisz. To be able to jack the entire front end up at once doesnt leave me any damn room to put jack stands in to support botg sides at same time so i got to do one side at a time.. if i had somethibg to go around the jack and lock as the jack rises than would cut 15 mins off trying to put my shit in the air..
Good idea poor welding and bad execution you shouldn't rely on them tiny bolts please use haredned pins to prevent shear failure
Joe Randall the welding looks pretty good to me
Youd be surprised; bolts have and insanely high Straight Sheer strength.
But yes..
Terrible welding.
I still don't understand why he kept switching to stick, then back to mig, then stick welding again. Maybe to try and get a better bead? Ha
I have a couple of pto driven implements that use sheer pins. Bolts are in no way near the sheer strength of a pin. A sheer pin( which is made to sheer in the event of a lockup) has more sheer strength than a grade 2 bolt. This is risky.
waynekc01 : I would not dwell on it to much. Some people are beyond the understanding of the human mind.
Wayne: I don't see any pinholes or flux inclusions, and as long as he achieved full penetration all the way around, does the surface appearance matter that much to the strength of the joint?
This will make this person money. This may be a prototype. Yes, welds would need to be better, the feet would need to be longer/wider, bolts to be stronger, however, I was not convinced until I saw the application.
Think about it. One has to adjust the hydroulic jack into the right spot. Use a platform, generally 2"×4''s or a 2"×6" , to get the right height for the jack to lift properly. Find a spot for the jack stands. Adjust the height of the jack and adjust the height of the jack stands to get a proper and safe base.
This jack stand will take care of hassle once it is up to safety codes...
i use jack stands
Just think of the cost of supplies too. They won't sell you a 2" piece of round stock. Have to buy 8'. Just like the rest of the materials. A better idea. Two jack stands. Use a piece of metal to connect the two tops of the jacks. etc.. you get the idea. Just make 2 stands one...
You should not lift by the pinch weld. The rocker around the pinch weld is reinforced and meant to take the load. You will eventually bend the pinch weld.
So this gives you one jack point rather than multiple. Anyone that knows what they’re doing won’t floor jack the weak spot of the pinch weld. They will hit the tranny mount, tow hook, frame, A arm bushing mount, etc...
lostintime86 you can't use 2 Jack stands, they are too high. Maybe if you have a 4x4 truck or suv that would work but not a car. German cars have to be jacked by the pinch welds.
racekar80 maybe...still a good idea,may need to custom fit it to your vehicules
Don't listen to the critique, point is, is it may need a little tweaking and better bolts and height but it's ideas and effort like this that makes people think and create new ideas. So, thank you.
Not sure I would trust my life to my high school metal shop welding skills or your design LOL 😆
This is way better than just jack stands. This is way fckn cool!
The bolts are in "shear", no weight rating. However, a grade8 automotive bolt of 3/8" diameter (dia. of section with no threads ) would be sufficient for a three or four thousand pound vehicle. I was more concerned about the foot (base) of the jackstand- I prefer at least three legs on mine.
А говорят только русские мастера всё выдумывать,а тут иностранец креативным оказался ! Парень просто молодчина, идея супер!!!
Good idea but one thing I would've done differently is cut up some jack stands for the supports. That way they would automatically lock when raising it.
Allen McKinney Or could just use the jack stands as they were designed.
Or just use the jack stand instead of cutting it
Allen McKinney that is actually a great idea, but normally that would require a lot of ground clearance to begin with. try and watch the video fram safe jacks and you'll notice that the vertical bars are mounted at the end.
Cutting up jack stands to build more jack stands, brilliant! That's right up there with watering crops with Gatorade because plants need electrolytes.
OR just use the jack stands and don't cut them up
Good job! They'll go everywhere that Jack goes now. If you sat down and cranked out a half dozen of those, make em stack together real right, with bigger slide pins (Jesus! Enough about the tiny slide pins) That concept is so simple and sturdy! I love it! "Autodesk! I have an idea! "
oh, on a side note, your welds? damn!! take a couple hrs. sit down and burn a couple a pounds of rod. 7018 when you need it to be strong. 6013,7014 when its a good fit and welded flat position (very fast and smooth) 6011,6010 when you're in an awkward position, and need an easier strike. Low amps bridges gaps, regular level amps penetrates well, highest amps for cutting and gouging (no shit, try it) overall, not a very strong weld, like 7018 & 11018.
Have fun and thanks for the ideas!
Is this is absolutely amazing. If it were my invention I would name it jack stands
heres the deal dude. If you want to protect the frame rail which is all you are doing with "your invention", go purchase a peice of steel about 16" by 16" , 1/8" thick, and slide it on top of your standard jackstand, and presto, your frame rail and underbelly will not get damaged. and it will be hell of alot safer. stick to jackstands they are used in the industry and built for the industry. I been using 1/8" thick steel plates for years on top of my jackstands and never had a safety issue and i never put any dents on my framerails either.
Worried about the shear strength of the bolts....would pins be stronger?
Yes pins would be a better idea. Or grade 8 bolts. Fortunately looks like the car weighs less then 2 tons. Also should have tacked the the tubing together to drill the holes, or drilled them separately.
Good idea !
THAT THING WOULD MAKE A NICE BOAT ANCHOR!!! JUS USE JACK STAND.
Cool idea, Im not sure the V channel is needed as the lip of the pannel is not a lifting point. The lifting point is in behind the lip on most cars.
I believe without the V wedge or channel this will work well behind the lip and do the job well.
These would be great for a car with only one support point where you can't put a jack stand on the same lifting pad.
A car never has only one "support point" . You should really jack a unibody car up by where the subframe bolts on , and if you have to then put the jack stand on reinforced rocker area ..
Excellent idea 👍🏻
Wow you invented the a less stable and safe jack stand. Now go run with scissors!
Wonder whether Vdo was a demo how welding is done or jacking up a car for which better options r avlble
If I may make a suggestion
Make the feet bigger .
Make the whole thing a little wider and a little taller . bigger bolts because all the weight is relying on those bolts. Cut a small channel on top bracket for the angle iron to sit in so you're not relying on the welds
Forget bolts....use solid pins.
King Jong Un yeah what king jong un said
Before suggesting wider, understand trusses. That may very well introduce new problems. Purchase something that is certified and made by a responsible company. Live long and prosper.
Gracias !!!
i dont have jackstands, i use a block of a 4x4 and 2 cans of peas stacked on each other instead.
bad idea. wood will split under pressure
People would flock to see you under a car with that.
Would be just as safe
like everyone else, don't trust those bolts!!!!! they are not designed to be loaded that way. Also you should re-engineer the base to be wider similar to a jack stand. Kudos for doing it yourself and making the videos. Don't let the comments discourage you and keep at it.
I'm not trying to be a jerk but using a jack with a hockey puck with a grove cut out then putting a jack stand would do the same.
or even a block of wood
nice design, definitely gonna make like this one. Thanks for the idea
Thank you
Flat and small when disassembled. Needs a stronger set of pins.
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Nice idea. Thanks for sharing.
These are already being made nice idea however I'd like to see the base a little longer for more stability.
Joe HamRadioGuy ryyy66 k
Joe HamRadioGuy. All he had to do was weld a 6 inch long piece of angle iron to the top of a Wal-Mart jack stand and had the same thing except safer and cheaper
I find i get better results with the mig using gasless wire if i take the nozzle off as you can see the weld a lot better. The nozzle is only there to shield the gas when using gas.
I am a bit worried about this. Those bolts could easily sheer under that pressure.
even a .25 inch grade 5 bolt has a shear weight around 4000 lbs.
Red Beard and The Den of Tools it won't sheer off
Rather than use bolts, why not use solid steel pins as used in a axle stand?
Red Beard and The Den of Tools that entire apparatus is begging to fall over under load
The shear force of one 10 mm bolt is over 3000 kg!
The big problem with this is that the weakest link is the bolts.... so the whole car will potentially be supported on two bolts. Should probably use thicker metal to support the vehicle.
Or you could use a JACK STAND!? Again trying to reinvent the wheel!
patrick mcglone single point lift and stand. not the same.
And not safe to be under doing any work. It just looks like an anchor to me.
well, I do agree that a jackstand with a wide base will allow more horizontal force, but if you think of his video as inspiration rather than then final design - I think its a good idea (but I also know that there is a commercial alternative safe-jack) but its helpfull to see others making stuff as inspiration.
Bingo
Christian Andersen who are you trying to kid? This serves no other point other that an ugly jackstand! 99% of the stuff this person makes is a copy of an original or "HIS" version. These aren't " hacks", hacked up? Yeah but not hacks!
it is ok/safe to jack the car on the sheet metal body seems? Normally I use the body frame??
that looks dangerous.....
😀
I agree awful little bolts hold that car
yes
The upper corners 90 ° should have reinforcements with triangles, to eliminate rupture by possible oscillatory movements left and right. Do not forget that a car weighs 1.5 - 2 tons ...
Gussets could be used to reinforce the welds.
Felicitaciones Dr. Hacker...Excelente sus Ideas e inventos ..!!! Muy útil para el taller. y facilitar el trabajo... los admiro.. Gracias por compartir... Saludos desde Ciudad de Camaná Perú
Betito Producciones..
7mins of my life I'll never get back. 😦
Only change to make is better bolts. If u don’t like this idea u haven’t spent much time under a vehicle trying not to run into jack stands every move u make. Good idea, it moves ur supports to the outer edge of vehicle.
This is EXTREMELY UNSAFE!
Jack stands are designed to hold a car elevated while you work underneath. Epic fail!
I use a round log from our firewood pile about 18 inches in diameter, with 4 by 1 packers if needed, it can’t tip over or drop down. Also spreads the pressure on your chassis. Safe as houses. Nice welding job though.
How to shear bolts by using a car------should be the title
What is the weight rating on those bolts? Looks like a fun project for somebody (like me) learning how to weld.
I would have just welded together 2 jack stands
blkthunderbolt knmoo
Nice idea for unibody cars with very limited jacking area - most new cars only offer 5-8" of lifting area in the front and back - making jacking up the car and then placing jack stands very problematic - the jack is in the way... Although the execution of this design could be improved in several areas, the concept is actually quite practical for modern unibody cars. I would not use this on a full frame vehicle where jack or axle stands are easily applied...
Why start with mig and finish with stick welding? Makes no sense!!
steb921 maybe he ran out of wire for the mig welder, I don't know just a wild guess.
steb921 my guess is his might welder wasn't hot enough for the thicker metal
Because he doesn't know how to mig weld properly. LOL he was making a mess with the mig. Watching the welding skills alone.. let alone the poor design, I would never get under a vehicle with that stand.
No mig was used in the making of whatever this is!!
because the MIG welds looked like baby shit. did you see the splatter?
My 06 Sentra has stumped me for years as to how to raise the rear and use jack stands. (Thankfully the front has a central point obvious for a floor jack and two obvious jack stand points.) For the rear, to use the trunk jack under the seam like in the video there was no trustworthy place to put a jack stand. Recently, raising to replace an exhaust, I had the car slip off using the rear two "apparent" jack stand points, when one folded over. Finally after this latest incident I found I could put a stand sideways right behind the seam the scissor jack straddles that runs the length between the wheels, towards the rear wheel well. There is a little extra metal in that area. This also requires back and forth driver to passenger side steps. So I kind of admire this video integrating the jack stand with the floor jack. btw, I use the scissor jack on one side and a floor jack on the other, with the dish removed and a small vise slightly opened sitting over the hole where the dish fits, to straddle the seam under the car body. The stand however is so close to the floor jack it's barely possible to use together. I'd actually prefer two scissor jacks.
This video is a joke, right?
Why.you ask that?
Why would anyone go through all the effort and expense to make a jack stand that you can buy cheaper and also won't collapse on you?
mark stone I understand your point. I suppose the vid would be directed to persons more like myself who have the necessary equipment or access to it, along with some knowledge on how to make some minor improvements to address the safety issues. I'm not a professional welder or fabricator of any sorts. Just fortunate to have some handy tools. Also, vids like these gives ideas on how to make use of scrap metal, which I also have alot of.
If you don't know how to make and/or use a jack stand, you should not try using the tools the sponsor ( or a "friend" sold you.! You could seriously injure yourself.
I did check it wasnt an April 1 version
From the shape of the top piece he seems to think the whole seam is OK as a jacking point, didnt even place it in the designed spot
Nice idea, however the materials in uk would cost at least £75 without rattle can, a pair of 6 ton axle stands £40
Never, EVER wear gloves when you're using a drill press. If the glove gets caught in the drill bit, well you can imagine what would happen to your hand!
Saw it happen once. The girl took a ride in the ambulance. Many stitches & 2 fingernails pulled off.
Good job! Awesome idea.
Are you watching the same video as me?
If I had a choice to buy a regular jack stand which I have many or buy this. I would buy this. If you have a rusted unibody with only one spot to jack this is what you want. I would buy this over a regular jack.
Not impressed. Waste of time. Use a jack stand.
Using setscrews instead of hardened steel pins to support the car's weight seems like a risk. Useful if space is restricted, where a jack and normal axle stand would conflict, but otherwise a lot of work for little benefit.
Just the angle piece on top of the jack might be a good idea to spread the load when needing to raise under the sills. Remove jack saddle, and create a 'Y' from the angle and the pin.
OK somewhat clever, but the foot print is too small. TOO TIPPY.
Also, since tou got the fabricobbling stuff, make a tool to actuate the valve on your jack.
good job you made a bad jack stand
mechanical engineer would give this guy a B plus just needs work most of the complainers whiners I'm guessing 30 year olds and living at home . this takes effort alot of you don't have a clue.
Not inservice his device is completely unsafe.
Not inservice
Just because you put time and effort into a project doesn’t make it good or safe.
You would trust your life under 2 ton car that’s being held up by two puny screws? Pins designed to handle sheer strength would at least make this safe. It’s still not a good idea when you can buy jack stands for dirt cheap.
Maybe if you do not have a jack. Just buy a set of ramps if your only doing oil changes or just need the car off the ground more or if your not taking off tyres. Are their cheap too ,I have both and a hoist
Ok based on the comments I thought, this was going to be a total waste of my time. But you may be on to something, I kind of like it. Good on Ya, way to think outside the box
Have you had any problems with the on of switch on your ryobi grinder, ive gone through a fer of em, switch starts working opposite......
Lose the music.
stuart paterson Amen to that
i think its great... however, if its only two feet holding it, its not too save... you need four legs to hold it together.. i mean if it swings sideways i just do not feel too safe....
Good job. You made a dangerous and stupid version of a jack stand. Genius.
Good job, you made an asshole comment. Genius and already done in earlier comments.
Fast Nasty, except I was being sincere.
Well done mate good job
Its too short genius!
Francesco Donato any taller and it won't fit , already too tall unless you have a truck or suv
Awesome job I gotta learn some basic welding skills.
hate to tell but walmart, every walmart has jack stands, not new, not genius
exactly ....it looks like he thinks he has reinvented the wheel! :D
or less
I'm confused. You showed how to cut steel but how did you plug in the grinder or put on the gloves?
Ok Dr Hacker I'll give credit for thinking out side the "box" on this one but someone else has already been there done that. Please buy pins NOW!!!! I don't want hear that you were crushed under a car with them bolts......................
420CEO has a point....... get some really good grade 8 bolts... or something that will take a really high shear load! Those look like standard bulk bin bolts...
Very dangerous.
500 kgs on those 2 bolts.
Topling risk.
Nice job, but I believe it has limited application. To rotate tires on my family cars, I just went to Harbor freight and bought a second one ton floor jack for $29. I now have two floor jacks.That way I can jack up both wheels on the same side of the car and rotate them. Also, you can get a set of jackstands that are more heavy duty for $29
Two tons of truck that are supported by 2 bolts? What happens if the bolts shear off after repeated use? Jack stands are not that expensive. Plus not everyone has all that metal cutting equipment and welding equipment?
Dr. Hacker needs to invest in a chop saw. And if you build something like this please, please, please don't bet your life on Gr. 5 bolts -- go to TSC and get proper hitch pins. Make those base plates 50% longer, and use gussets.
Wow! Jack stands! What will you think of next !? Battery powered impact !?
Nice Idea but I would have made the feet cover more area and what is the hardest of those bolts they need to be unbreakable for the weight you use them for.
Watching him lower the jack with pliers………… all you need to know! Too many problems with this video to point them all out……… safety first folks!
Hooray!!!! I just spent $50 on material plus about 3 hours of fabbing to make a jack stand!!!! Or I can go to harbor freight and buy a pair for $19.99!
...wow, what a great idea! If only someone hadn't already invented jack stands. DUH. Dr. Hacker better go back to hacking medical school.
Jack stands always seem in the way of what i'm doing. This would be a good alt. when needed.
Jose Cunha s
Jose show us YOUR fucking idea dick.
Thats nuts. What if the bolt fails?
It would be better if if was not already an invention, post your own ideas and quit copying
Robert Scott show me where he coped that from
James Nichols there's one made that does the same thing but different look. and better welds with heavy duty bolts/pins.
ua-cam.com/video/yqXIrSVQ3ts/v-deo.html
you right!
William Palacio I think you are the ducking idiot (Ryan gst) posted a link that shows what I'm talking about
If I had these abilities, I would go to the basement, blind all the windows there, and be scrupulously careful that no one was filming.