I know this is a very old video, but I experimented a little bit and I found out that you can get suede-like backside using sandpaper. I sanded the whole area using a 80 grit just a tiny bit, then 120, then 180. Then I got a backside that looks and feels quite like suede. You can continue with higher grits for even smoother results. Or, you can apply tokonole and finish it with canvas (or this glass tool if you have it) for a smooth and shiny, but less suede-like surface.
For folks just getting started on leather working or on a low budget, its basically just burnishing the rough side of the leather like you would with your edges, so you can achieve pretty much the same effect by rubbing some bees wax all over the rough side and using the flat side of a wood slicker similar to how he used the glass one. Just rub until it’s shiny and the fibers are intermeshed. It takes a bit more time and muscle, but it works!
Gracias, estaba buscando por una opcion mas economica, aqui en Argentina el Tokonole es algo caro para principiantes. Thanks, I'm looking for something more economic, here in Argentina the Tokonole it's to expensive por a beginners
The best suede leather tutorial on youtube. How is there absolutely no other videos on earth or youtube about how to buff or smooth out suede leather? God bless you.
Dobra robota. Bardzo dawno temu gdy byłem młody , czasami stosowano tę metodę. Ale w miarę gdy wchodziły coraz lepsze maszyny to zaprzestano stosować tę metodę. Teraz mało ludzi to pamięta .
I'm so glad I saw this. I was hoping this would work to smooth the backside of a purse strap that isn't smooth and drives me crazy but I'm realizing they did this already. I'll have to get a different strap.
hi. i know this video was 4 years ago but yeah im new on leathercrafting. i was curious on how you dye the flesh side and prevent it to rub off on buyers cloth. for example i do made a guitar strap without lining. so it has flesh and top side. i do hand dyed on both side. there was no problem on top side. but when he was sweating the flesh side rub off and leave a lot of stain on his shirt. any idea? by looking on your video is it possible to use tokonole to seal dye on flesh side. i was confuse on how the step on it. is it dying first then burnish it with tokonole, or tokonole first, burnish, then dying it. thanks im hoping you will answer this :)
I use Gum Trac. Apply liberally, then work it in with a finished piece of wood attached to my drill with a nail. The wood must be flat and smooth coated with 3 coats of polyurethane and lightly sanded with high grits sandpaper. Run you drill with the wood attached over the Gum Trac until it is smooth and dry. It will stay this way. Your Skyve side of the leather is finished. No more fuzzy’s.
Nice, I haven’t yet seen a vid about the “wrong” side of leather! Thx! Have you ever had a customer want something made w leather using the flesh side out?
Sascha Wolf must be splits, you’re right... the tanneries seem to be able to make all sorts of finishes . In my case it was a book cover that was wanted. Customer always right, oh well! Cheers!
That is essentially suede. Suede is flesh side of leather buffed in such a way to achieve uniform fiber length. As opposed to nubuck which is buffed from the grain side.
You have to be careful not to get Tokonol on the finished side of the leather because it will leave a mark that can't be stained over. I use gum tragacanth or water because they won't stain the finished side of the leather. It might be wise to do all your staining and finishing on the good side first, and then use Tokonol on the fuzzy side. I've never tried doing it that way, so if anyone else has, feel free to add your 2 cents worth.
I'm wondering , what if you have a larger surface, for instance, I want to cut 36" long straps & wd like to treat the leather before I cut them, so, surface probably 36" x 12"...Wd I do a small section at a time?
Didn't know there was a special chemical for this. I have been using just a touch of saddle soap with a damp rag, and then used the round tip of my wooden slicker...
It looks like it's just burnishing the undercoat. Nothing special and saddle soap or even water would do. Unlike gum tragacanth, this solution looks like it's putting oils back into the leather, so maybe a little healthier and better, softer feel
Have you tried to dye the leather after this process? I'm curious how both sides would react. If you're pinching in the fibers, would it be more resistant to the dyes? Likewise, if you use too much of that solution, I imagine it would work it's way into the leather, so I'm curious if that would affect a subsequent topcoat dye if you used it too liberally.
I havent used this topcoat but it appears to behave the same as EdgeKote. Assuming that is true, then you have to dye it first. I made that mistake once, got busy and forgot to dye it, and there was no adding dye after the fact. It just rubbed/wiped off the barrier created by the EdgeKote. 🥴
Thank for this video. is it possible to colour the leather after this treatment with Tokonole? I have a fuzzy natural leather but I want to colour it in brown.. but the colouring product instructions say that I have to "clean" the leather from wax etc before colouring it..
Thank you for the reply! The thing is that, since the leather is fuzzy it's very hard to dye it, and it takes so much colour than the smooth part.. I would have liked to smooth it too before dying.. do you know if there are other techniques to avoid this problem?
@@denisecarrubba4293 what dye are you using can be a big question here. you may mix with tokonole very small amount. Are you trying to make the leather both sides same color? if you apply dye on back side of leather of course it will keep get dyes and it will bleed those dyes forever like it's dye making fountain. This kind of question can be different in all situation. tell me what you are doing with it. or I can't help you
Yes i’m colouring both side but the thing is that since it’s fuzzy, it’s hard to colour it, ti takes so much colour.. i’m using Tarrago, i think it’s Spanish.. when I dye the smooth side it’s perfect.. with the funny side I have difficulties.. I’ll try mixing tokonole and colour then
Update: Tokonole works a treat on the fuzzy side of Chrome. Ordered some on Ebay from Japan sent to the UK for less than £10, treated a whole half hide with less than half a jar. No more fuzzy felt all over my workshop :-)
Charles Clifton Forex Trader did you try burnishing the edges of chrome tanned leather with Tokonole too? Apparently it doesn’t work much with the edges in chrome tanned, but some one told me, you can get some good result with the edges of chrome tanned leather with Tokonole too...if you have tried will you let us know. I don’t have Tokonole yet :(
@@deepdiver849 I tried it, works ok. I rub tokonole on the edge let it dry 5 min. Burnish it. Then i add edge kote. Let it dry 5 min. Burnish it. Comes out smooth. Will never be as good as Veg tan but it looks decent.
When i started this hobby i always tought the rough side was the front side of the leather. I made wallets to friends with that side out. So embarrassing. I dont think they lmow though.
This leather is left untreated so that the craftsperson can decide how they want to finish the leather, including doing any painting or stamping to it.
I just found out that Cocobolo can't be imported into Canada (the wood is considered to endangered by Canadian authorities). Having a wooden handle on top of the glass slicker would enable more control.
What do you call the tool that you used to spread the TOKONOLE. I would like to by one on Ebay. I think the Tool is a brilliant design for what you are using it for. I have never see that Tool.
There is a company in Dallas, Texas, LCI Inc. that makes a leather coating that does this and does now require burnishing. Not a bad product, but the owner is difficult to deal with. Weaver Leather brands some LCI products. Burnishing with Tokonole may provide better results.
this will stand water little bit. but like all leather, if it gets soaked, it won't. no beeswax! it will become sticky and gummy. there is water proofing product in shoe products. you better use that instead.
@Leathertoolz: I bought a long sheep skin vintage coat last week for 10€. The outside is very soft leather and it sheds really bad. My trousers were completely covered in leather dust. Can you please advise me on how to solve this? Thank you :-)
Thank you for the idea! I will include my phone. Not everyone has the same phone. so I used coins instead make you guys get the feeling of how big it is!
I intentionally go for aesthetic rough edges by soaking in water (for shaping as well) and hammering them with a ball peen upon an anvil. I also flip the piece (fuzzy side up) and compact it back into itself with a flat hammerface with lighter strikes and it seems to do the trick, of course my desired finish is rough and scuffy but this is a very simple and cheap way to toughen leather up
Oh wow, because you put so little on you really create a lot of work for yourself. I am doing in 3 or 4 light passes. You are doing an arm workout. Hit it with my heat gun and I have a better surface..
That is all this stuff does is glue down the leather fibers and make it smooth. Do like someone else said, get some wood glue, same chit, different price. Lol
I know this is a very old video, but I experimented a little bit and I found out that you can get suede-like backside using sandpaper. I sanded the whole area using a 80 grit just a tiny bit, then 120, then 180. Then I got a backside that looks and feels quite like suede. You can continue with higher grits for even smoother results. Or, you can apply tokonole and finish it with canvas (or this glass tool if you have it) for a smooth and shiny, but less suede-like surface.
For folks just getting started on leather working or on a low budget, its basically just burnishing the rough side of the leather like you would with your edges, so you can achieve pretty much the same effect by rubbing some bees wax all over the rough side and using the flat side of a wood slicker similar to how he used the glass one. Just rub until it’s shiny and the fibers are intermeshed. It takes a bit more time and muscle, but it works!
Gracias, estaba buscando por una opcion mas economica, aqui en Argentina el Tokonole es algo caro para principiantes.
Thanks, I'm looking for something more economic, here in Argentina the Tokonole it's to expensive por a beginners
@@patricioacero2052 No problem, glad I could help!
Thanks I’m cheap so I will buy beeswax 😅
@@CrashCarson14 ua-cam.com/video/mDuIf9kewBM/v-deo.html
Ended up using sno seal and it works much better. Really packs into the leather hood
The best suede leather tutorial on youtube. How is there absolutely no other videos on earth or youtube about how to buff or smooth out suede leather? God bless you.
I agree with you I looked a lot and found nothing except this one.
Yeah
I have been looking for this sort of video for DAYS!
Thank you for making it all those years ago!
Can you also use an iPhone 11 pro max for the burnisher?
Hi there - I bought some Tokonole and a small glass burnisher and used it as you showed. I love the results! Thanks for your video.
Glass Slicker & Burnisher : amzn.to/2Xvefms
Tokonole : amzn.to/2WV4WrD
All of my recommended lists are here: www.amazon.com/shop/leathertoolz
Video starts at 3:30
I use saddle soap and a plastic paint brush handle.
Perfect title I’m like how do I stop this fuzz lol thanks for using easy terms for non-professionals like me!
Thank you!! I tried making a pen case and stopped because the rough side kept shedding those dusty leather particles. Great video!
Dobra robota. Bardzo dawno temu gdy byłem młody , czasami stosowano tę metodę. Ale w miarę gdy wchodziły coraz lepsze maszyny to zaprzestano stosować tę metodę. Teraz mało ludzi to pamięta .
I made a very good slicker using a thick piece of heavy plastic with a mahogany wooden handle, looks nice and works great. Anaco, Anz.
that is great making your own tool is another side of craft joy!
I burnish with CMC. Its cheap and good results. In my country, Brazil, tokonole is very very very expensive 6-8x times the usual price.
Very nice! The glass slicker shown on Amazon does not show a handle. Can you advise where to find one like you used?
After watching your video I ordered the Barry King glass slicker from RM leather. Thank you. I Always enjoy and learn from your videos.
Thanks for the comment! I wish I can do more soon.
You can use water as well! It's all in the pressure applied. You're welcome!
You should compare doing this with just PVA adhesive, maybe a bit diluted, and with Tokonole.
Maybe a total noob question, but if I need to dye the leather should it be done before or after slicking? I'm thinking before.
Was about to ask this same question, I would assume to dye before this wax stuff
I wasn't expecting the Free numismatics lesson halfway through. :-)
PROBABLY A STUPID QUESTION BUT IF YOU BURNISH THE BACK SIDE OF LEATHER CAN YOU SOAK IN WATER AFTER ?
I'm so glad I saw this. I was hoping this would work to smooth the backside of a purse strap that isn't smooth and drives me crazy but I'm realizing they did this already. I'll have to get a different strap.
I actually tried this before even watching this video, works pretty good
that time when your leather is so good you cannot even show fuzzy flesh side :P nice tips mate, I appreciate it.
Sand paper :D . I use that hehe
hi. i know this video was 4 years ago but yeah im new on leathercrafting. i was curious on how you dye the flesh side and prevent it to rub off on buyers cloth. for example i do made a guitar strap without lining. so it has flesh and top side. i do hand dyed on both side. there was no problem on top side. but when he was sweating the flesh side rub off and leave a lot of stain on his shirt. any idea?
by looking on your video is it possible to use tokonole to seal dye on flesh side. i was confuse on how the step on it. is it dying first then burnish it with tokonole, or tokonole first, burnish, then dying it. thanks im hoping you will answer this :)
I also want to know this. I like the flesh side of veg tan, and want to use it instead of hide it. But no luck so far.
Dye first
I use Gum Trac. Apply liberally, then work it in with a finished piece of wood attached to my drill with a nail. The wood must be flat and smooth coated with 3 coats of polyurethane and lightly sanded with high grits sandpaper. Run you drill with the wood attached over the Gum Trac until it is smooth and dry. It will stay this way. Your Skyve side of the leather is finished. No more fuzzy’s.
Nice, I haven’t yet seen a vid about the “wrong” side of leather! Thx! Have you ever had a customer want something made w leather using the flesh side out?
I guess they dont wont the grain side ....so maybe split leather is what they want to make it water proof?
Sascha Wolf must be splits, you’re right... the tanneries seem to be able to make all sorts of finishes . In my case it was a book cover that was wanted. Customer always right, oh well! Cheers!
That is essentially suede. Suede is flesh side of leather buffed in such a way to achieve uniform fiber length. As opposed to nubuck which is buffed from the grain side.
You have to be careful not to get Tokonol on the finished side of the leather because it will leave a mark that can't be stained over. I use gum tragacanth or water because they won't stain the finished side of the leather. It might be wise to do all your staining and finishing on the good side first, and then use Tokonol on the fuzzy side. I've never tried doing it that way, so if anyone else has, feel free to add your 2 cents worth.
i wonder if a bone folder would get a similar result on the edge or maybe a kitchen implement
This should help with skiving/thinning, right?
it depends on leather. after skiving it can be still fuzzy
can we do this without tokonole? like with water?
I'm wondering , what if you have a larger surface, for instance, I want to cut 36" long straps & wd like to treat the leather before I cut them, so, surface probably 36" x 12"...Wd I do a small section at a time?
The link You provided is not for the bary king glass slicker tho?
I'm thinking about sanding the edges of my glass plates to get those rounded edges.
Edward Santoro make sure to polish the edges too. It’ll stay rough with just the sand.
IF we want to dye both side of the vegetable leather, will we dye it after flattening the back surface?
Dye first
Great information fast and to the point. Well done thank you.
Didn't know there was a special chemical for this. I have been using just a touch of saddle soap with a damp rag, and then used the round tip of my wooden slicker...
Yup! your method also works but this stuff really works well and actually designed for that specific purpose.
It looks like it's just burnishing the undercoat. Nothing special and saddle soap or even water would do. Unlike gum tragacanth, this solution looks like it's putting oils back into the leather, so maybe a little healthier and better, softer feel
will Tokonole burnish Chrom Tan Leather also ??
What brand plastic scraper is that?
Use wallpaper paste. It works.
What do you call that 'spatula?' where can I get that?
It's a glue smearer or spreader... Pick them up on amazon or ebay for a few quid
Thanks for this, have been looking for a solution to this age-old issue.
Thanks for the comment! I am glad this video helped you.
Isn't that "flaking" or "leather dust" called crocking?
Have you tried to dye the leather after this process? I'm curious how both sides would react. If you're pinching in the fibers, would it be more resistant to the dyes? Likewise, if you use too much of that solution, I imagine it would work it's way into the leather, so I'm curious if that would affect a subsequent topcoat dye if you used it too liberally.
I havent used this topcoat but it appears to behave the same as EdgeKote. Assuming that is true, then you have to dye it first. I made that mistake once, got busy and forgot to dye it, and there was no adding dye after the fact. It just rubbed/wiped off the barrier created by the EdgeKote. 🥴
I’m a little late but you can’t dye after applying tokonole because it’s made up of different waxes.
Hey man, have you ever tried the brown and black Tokonole? Anything you can say about them?
Thank for this video. is it possible to colour the leather after this treatment with Tokonole? I have a fuzzy natural leather but I want to colour it in brown.. but the colouring product instructions say that I have to "clean" the leather from wax etc before colouring it..
it's always better to dye first, then finish it. otherwise, dyes will come off much easier.
Thank you for the reply! The thing is that, since the leather is fuzzy it's very hard to dye it, and it takes so much colour than the smooth part.. I would have liked to smooth it too before dying.. do you know if there are other techniques to avoid this problem?
@@denisecarrubba4293 what dye are you using can be a big question here. you may mix with tokonole very small amount.
Are you trying to make the leather both sides same color? if you apply dye on back side of leather of course it will keep get dyes and it will bleed those dyes forever like it's dye making fountain.
This kind of question can be different in all situation. tell me what you are doing with it. or I can't help you
Yes i’m colouring both side but the thing is that since it’s fuzzy, it’s hard to colour it, ti takes so much colour.. i’m using Tarrago, i think it’s Spanish.. when I dye the smooth side it’s perfect.. with the funny side I have difficulties.. I’ll try mixing tokonole and colour then
@@denisecarrubba4293 again I am asking. why are you doing that for which application
Thank you for the informative video and that glass slicker looks like a good tool to add to the arsenal! 👍
Can I do the same with the flesh side of chrome leather?
no, Tokonole doesn't work with Chrome leather.
Why will this technique not work on chrome ?
Update: Tokonole works a treat on the fuzzy side of Chrome. Ordered some on Ebay from Japan sent to the UK for less than £10, treated a whole half hide with less than half a jar. No more fuzzy felt all over my workshop :-)
Charles Clifton Forex Trader did you try burnishing the edges of chrome tanned leather with Tokonole too? Apparently it doesn’t work much with the edges in chrome tanned, but some one told me, you can get some good result with the edges of chrome tanned leather with Tokonole too...if you have tried will you let us know.
I don’t have Tokonole yet :(
@@deepdiver849 I tried it, works ok. I rub tokonole on the edge let it dry 5 min. Burnish it. Then i add edge kote. Let it dry 5 min. Burnish it. Comes out smooth. Will never be as good as Veg tan but it looks decent.
What can be the alternative as I can not find it here in Egypt and not easy to import chemicals.
Thank you
you can search for "gum tragacanth" if it's available in Egypt.
Did you find an alternative?
Can this item can used for suede leather
Does the treated surface last after a while?
Well if you just use dye on the leather, or wax the leather with beezwax or something, the grain wont flake off like that anymore.
MrSmiley977 This was actually the best advice. thanks!
When i started this hobby i always tought the rough side was the front side of the leather. I made wallets to friends with that side out. So embarrassing. I dont think they lmow though.
that's just a rough-out wallet. sounds pretty cool actually
Excellent tips! Thanks!
I've got a short leather belt with this rough material on the back. I'm smoothening it for reasons ;)
I'm smoothing a side of black leather for similar reasons. ;-)
Most useful. Many thanks.
Thanks
With the cost of leather the manufacturers should be treating it before selling
This leather is left untreated so that the craftsperson can decide how they want to finish the leather, including doing any painting or stamping to it.
I just found out that Cocobolo can't be imported into Canada (the wood is considered to endangered by Canadian authorities). Having a wooden handle on top of the glass slicker would enable more control.
What do you call the tool that you used to spread the TOKONOLE. I would like to by one on Ebay. I think the Tool is a brilliant design for what you are using it for. I have never see that Tool.
It's just a piece of flat angled plastic, you could literally use your old credit card instead.
leathercrafttools.com/item?id=4664 it's this one. they ship worldwide for really reasonable shipping
Wonderful work
Thanks for sharing. Do i need to treat the back side if i am going to glue a lining on it?
Thanks for good info- it really helped!
Thank you for kind words! Thanks for watching!
There is a company in Dallas, Texas, LCI Inc. that makes a leather coating that does this and does now require burnishing. Not a bad product, but the owner is difficult to deal with. Weaver Leather brands some LCI products. Burnishing with Tokonole may provide better results.
is the slicked flesh side can stand water? or should i seal it with beeswax?
this will stand water little bit. but like all leather, if it gets soaked, it won't. no beeswax! it will become sticky and gummy. there is water proofing product in shoe products. you better use that instead.
leathertoolz thanks a lot man 😃😃😃
most people would measure it and say it is 5 inches or 6 inches or what ever,I mean you have a ruler next to you since you work with leather
AWESOME VIDEO!! THANK YOU VERY MUCH! VERY INFORMATIVE!
@Leathertoolz: I bought a long sheep skin vintage coat last week for 10€.
The outside is very soft leather and it sheds really bad.
My trousers were completely covered in leather dust. Can you please advise me on how to solve this?
Thank you :-)
I think it's will easy if you compare the size with your phone :)
Thank you for the idea! I will include my phone. Not everyone has the same phone. so I used coins instead make you guys get the feeling of how big it is!
@@leathertoolz inches/centimeters?
Why not put actual measurements, using rulers and calipers, for size comparison? It will definitely be more precise.
well, measurement doesn't really help. I will try though! thanks!
Dimensions:
Length: 13 cm (5.5")
Height: 11.5 cm (4.5")
Thickness: 0.8 cm (0.32")
The info is on the website he provided.
You can do the same much easier, cheaper, and faster with Fibings Tan Kote.
hello, Sam! Thank you for letting me know! I will try them in the future!!
I intentionally go for aesthetic rough edges by soaking in water (for shaping as well) and hammering them with a ball peen upon an anvil.
I also flip the piece (fuzzy side up) and compact it back into itself with a flat hammerface with lighter strikes and it seems to do the trick, of course my desired finish is rough and scuffy but this is a very simple and cheap way to toughen leather up
Bob Ross
Bob Rice! ;)
Awesome!!!!!!!
Oh wow, because you put so little on you really create a lot of work for yourself. I am doing in 3 or 4 light passes. You are doing an arm workout. Hit it with my heat gun and I have a better surface..
This slicker here is $50, from Barry King. Who pays $50 for a piece of glass? Not me. I'm sure you could get a whole window for that price.
見てますよ〜＾＾
ありがとうございました
if it is fuzzy it is poor tanning
Kind of yeah but not 100%. even if it's well tanned, you will always get some "flakes" afterward. This work prevents that.
Your burnishing your backside
I figured it out! Don't buy cheap leather and you won't have to deal with "hairy" leather which is inferior in every way.
That was ten minutes dragged out!
That is all this stuff does is glue down the leather fibers and make it smooth. Do like someone else said, get some wood glue, same chit, different price. Lol
Say it once!
Sorry!
I think Rich should be the one to say" sorry ". You're getting a free lesson .
Unbelievable. A highly informative and FREE video, and still some complain...
Time is not free lol but either way, I appreciate the lesson
You blather on about stuff that doesn’t matter. Get on with it! It took 6 minutes to get started...
Talk less, show more. Okay.
Comment less.. appretiate more. Okey?
People don't want that
Speak for yourself
Wonderful work
Wonderful work