Not sure carb cleaner is the best to use on or around any electronic part. WD-40 or an equivalent should work and is generally safe for electronic parts. WD-40 consists of deodorized kerosene and some cleaners. It will evaporate, altough it could leave a residue that might affect an optical sensor. Another product you could use is tuner cleaner. It has been a long time since televisions have had mechanical tuneres but the product is still available. It might be better to remove the optical sensor before you clean the wheel, but all of this is good information to know. I have a '96 Sentra which takes multiple bumps to start, although it runs great after that.
i don't remember to tell you the truth. we just went through a bunch of screws until we found one that was snug. honestly, there is a flaw in the design. later on we put blue loctite on the screw threads after a new distributor was doing the same thing. works like a charm.
I have a GA16, almost similar to the engine shown, just a different intake manifold, My problem is that the car has like a dead spot/misfire when idling as well as driving, which comes and goes, changed fuel pump, spark plugs, ht cables, which seemed to work for a while then it came back recently, any surggetions where to look next?
jordan botha have you checked your distributor cap for cracks and scorching? Also, make sure you don't have a vacuum leak. I know this is a long shot but how old is your battery?
doesn't the distributer have an offset key which have to line up no matter how much you spin the rotor? so even you put in a brand new distributor isn't it supposed to line up with the keyway on the cam shaft?
nice vid bro. i have b13 eccs GA16DE engine. my distri cap has tiny oil leak but its not drippin its just like its just go out on the cap. Should I change the shaft seal or just check the inside cap first. 2nd question is does ignition coil with oil on it affect the starting problems in the engine? thanks hope you can help me.
I'm running into a random no crank issue will my 1995 Nissan Sentra been going on for a year now ,I'm going to have to eliminate a starter issue because it would have been long gone by now because it's a daily driver it's not a battery post that is corroded they are clean I'm going to have to rule out any shift lock solenoid issues because I can hear that engage I stopped pulling the key out of the ignition for the most part it seems to remedy the issue has anybody else had this problem ?
Yup,will just get worse to one day it wont start,just crank. Mines been down a year almost, changed relays,fuel pump etc. And nothing. But did notice the fuel pump doesnt activate when key on, but does so directly. So that is issue,but cant find were to fix it to work.
If U look it up U will find that the rotor screw or where it screws into is defective n strips out new rotor n screw generally takes care of the problem
I did actually try that but I found out that the threads on the rotor shaft were the real issue. I tried a new screw, using a slightly bigger screw, using a lock washer, using loctite. None of them actually worked as a long term solution
@@BrunsBwlr I see we just went through this same thing on my neighbors 99 Nissan Sentra I had a heads up on the problem when working on my son's 99 Nissan Quest is a very common problem for most Nissan's around those years thanks for the video👍
Greetings, is it possible to use a Nissan ECU with the wire harness to operate a Toyota engine if added the crankshaft sensor map sensor and also the coil pack and throttle body to the Toyota engine
I'm going to be honest and say I'm not sure. What I do know is that those sensors would have to fit and operate properly in an engine it probably wasn't made for. That wiring harness would have to be able to reach all the same components as the Nissan engine and how that the connectors are the same as well. I'm not saying it can't be done, I just don't know.
I was reading up on the code and it seems to me that you could have a bad camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor or both. It could also be the pcm but let's start simple first
i have nissan b14. but there is a problem with a distributer. how can I identify the suitable distributor for my car. i have already tried few distributers. but no result. PLEASE HELP ME
I have nissan sentra 96 super saloon GA16DE B14 engine. I'm not sure what the problem is, but whenever I crank start the engine and slowly move up or down the distributor, the engine starts...there's a bit of misfiring then sometimes it will just turn off. And then when I crank start it again, it requires me to move the distributor again.
Hey guys you are very smart. I have 96 sentra 1.4 engine same as in the video. I my car ran well. I started it up and letting it warm up it died and won't start back up. What do you think it is? Clean the sensor like you did? Also I have no spark but do smell fuel.
How can I fix my dash lights and other like radio and lights. Everything is off inside and out. I only drive the car during the day. My battery also drains sometimes also.
+Rashaun Ransom with the blown head gasket most of the time if the car runs it will run poorly and sometimes die. I would definitely suggest changing the head gasket as soon as possible. As far as the second car is concerned, if the car was low on oil and you heard a snap, chances are your engine is done especially if it won't even turn over.
@Travis Bromley, did you get a PO340 code for the camshaft position sensor? Because mine has this code come up and i tried so start but only got the "crank no start" episode on my sentra. I'm already about to bit the bullet on a new distributor system.
I had the same P0340 code but I also initially had a P0605 code (ECM) also . I scanned again after I went down the list in the technician service manual from NICO club and scanned again after clearing codes and I only got the P0340 code.I am going to see if I can spray like you guys did. We'll see , although maybe just some canned air rather than residue up the optical lens.
Same ride lights turn everything on but no start. One time my car wouldn't start so I went under the hood and tapped the battery and moved the cords abit and started right up then left on the go everything was fine then I parked again for bout 20min tried starting again nothing then just left it overnight at friends the next morning it started right up again and took me me all the way home that was actually 30-40 miles now I'm at home it won't start agian. What could possibly be the problem?
@@jeffersonnez9814 if your alternator was going out, your battery would most likely not stay charged which would mean you'd have to jump it or the battery could die while driving causing the car to shut off. If you go to start the car but it won't even turn over and all you hear is a "click", this could indicate a bad starter.
No, in the 1.6L sentra 1997 vehicles it is on the front side below the distributor on the automatic trtansmission housing. But, it is not considered for ignition purposes by the ECM you can disconnect the crankshaft sensor and the engine will keep running or it will start with no issues.
+Travis Bromley i checked the spark plugs and they look at least 4-5 years old. conpletely rusted up. unfortunately, whoever last did the plugs broke the gaskets around the packs so when i go to push the plug wires back in, there is no sealing and it pops right out. we tried starting it anyway and now its making the strangest sound ive ever heard. its like a crank with no hiccup. so the starter seems to be spinning freely without touching the flywheel? this car is getting close to heading to the junkyard man haha
The entrance of the hole where alll the way at the bottom you find the spark plug. That top is where the wire fits snug and holds pressure. Well its no longer holding pressure so it doesnt hold onto the spark plug.
Hey I'm having a p1320 crank no start change the distributor and crankshaft position sensor still no start and fuses are good what should I check next acts like it wants to start but wont
Have you replaced any electronic components? If not, check your distributor wiring for corrosion or breaks in the wire. Modern cars are so heavily dependent on computers that if the ecm gets an incorrect signal, it could mean a no start condition. If you have a dmm, check for voltage.
Ohming is a good start but remember, ohming proves that there is continuity but it doesn't always prove integrity. If you think about a cluster of wires, only one wire needs to be connected to show continuity but one wire can't produce the needed current. Just some food for thought.
Nicholas Isaac It could be your battery or the connection to the battery. If you have corrosion on the battery terminal or in the wires, it causes high resistance. How did you verify that your starter was not the issue?
Mine starts but drains the 🔋. Changed the battery alternator interior harness and fuse box, the inside gauge lights won't work n that's when it's not charging the battery or sending any signals to the rest of the car
If the battery and alternator are new and working as they should, you have a parasitic draw somewhere. Something is using power when it shouldn't. Check to make sure nothing is staying on. Sometimes lights with bad switches will stay on or aftermarket components will drain the battery. Even though you changed out the harness, the component that a connector is hooked to could still have an issue.
L1dechuy09 How old is your battery? Is there any corrosion on the wires at the battery? The reason I ask is because the starter needs as many cranking amps as the battery can provide. If you don't have enough amperage, the starter won't turn, but you'll hear the starter solenoid engage. Sometimes as time passes, the battery can still hold the same voltage, but is not able to produce the amperage it once could. Sometimes the starter is bad as well.
I have an issue with my nissan sentra 1998, 1.6 SI injector it has a hiccup, like a jerk when accelerating or under load, I have replaced the TPS and my airflow works well as well as my fuel pump, but the problem still persists, HELP
Do you have a check engine light? I would make sure you have adequate fuel pressure. There could be other restrictions in the line, such as the filter. Another issue on the fuel side could be injectors. As they age, they may not be able to deliver the fuel properly. How do your spark plug wires look? What about your distributor cap and rotor? Are they scorched or cracked?
@@BrunsBwlr the fuel seems to be okay, ive never changed the injectors but they were once taken in for cleaning, the spark cables were replaced, however once the seal in the distributor was leaking oil onto the ignition coil pack, I can't tell if thats the problem cause I got the car with this leak, although I did replace that seal
Horace Empty I'm sorry but I don't understand the last part of your comment. Before we cleaned the sensor, the car would very rarely start. When the the did start, it ran horribly.
For a car to run, it needs combustion and combustion needs 3 things: fuel, oxygen, and an ignition source. If your car starts, it means you're getting all 3. As you step on the gas, the demand for all 3 is increased. If one or more of the 3 can't the car could stall. With that being said, start bu checking your fuel filter, your air filter, and your spark plugs wires and distributor assuming that you have them.
Travis Bromley the car was parked for 3 months so I put in new spark plugs and changed the plug wires as well but I had to replace the fuel pump hose becuz it got corroded in the gas tank so I think Ama change the fuel filter. What do you think?
It couldn't hurt. You should be able to blow through them almost as easily as you could a straw. After 3 months the gas may have started going bad as well. Also, did you change the actual fuel pump or just the hose?
Nicholas Isaac I would not use wd-40. That is a penetrating oil and will leave oil behind which will attract dirt which is what you're trying to get rid of. I would stick to a brake cleaner or carb cleaner type spray.
Quido Miranda follow the air box to the mass airflow sensor and then look behind it and down a little ways. If you still can't find it, follow the fuel line from the fuel rail from the right side. Let me know if you still need some direction.
Thanks when I start the car I have to give it gas to start but I noticed a strong smell of gas and noticed a wet spot under the front driver side any idea
this video was simply the second video of the series of videos I've done on my Nissan series. please let me know if you'd like to see something in particular. Feedback is always welcome!
Got an 01 Sentra SE 2.0 that won't crank. Turn key & nothing 9 out of 10 times. When it cranks it will drive for 1/2 hr. I know the battery is good, leaning to the Crank position sensor in the shifter (Automatic) or the ignition switch itself. Any thoughts?
Just using 30 minutes as an example that once cranked it runs flawlessly.The only problem is it doesn't crank but 1 of every 10 tries. When you turn the switch it does not crank- no sound other than u can hearing some relays click. It won't turn over. Tried shifting to Neutral then back to Park- no change.
I actually had this problem with my car as well. I could push the shifter just a little further forward and it would start for me. However, shortly after I had to replace my starter. There was a piece that was broken in the starter which prevented the starter solenoid from engaging all the time. It became a real problem.
@@BrunsBwlras far as I can tell, spark plugs and wires, an electronic device in distributor (ran better for a short while), fuel pump and filters and a new battery. She states that engine light flashes and motor lumber at about 1 miles running: even her tail lights stay on with key in accessories mode. I told her to reset ecm and go from there. My honda had similar symptoms but it was a distributer replacement that solved the problem. 1993 Honda accord stn wagon with 371k
For the brake lights, check the brake pedal switch bumper at the top of the brake pedal where it pushes on the switch. Usually you have misfires when the check engine flashes. The CEL will flash when there is a chance that the catalytic converter will be damaged. I'm starting to wonder if the catalytic converter is clogged. You can check a cat with a pressure gauge.
I can confirm this was my issue! I cleaned it and car started right up!
Not sure carb cleaner is the best to use on or around any electronic part. WD-40 or an equivalent should work and is generally safe for electronic parts. WD-40 consists of deodorized kerosene and some cleaners. It will evaporate, altough it could leave a residue that might affect an optical sensor. Another product you could use is tuner cleaner. It has been a long time since televisions have had mechanical tuneres but the product is still available. It might be better to remove the optical sensor before you clean the wheel, but all of this is good information to know. I have a '96 Sentra which takes multiple bumps to start, although it runs great after that.
i don't remember to tell you the truth. we just went through a bunch of screws until we found one that was snug. honestly, there is a flaw in the design. later on we put blue loctite on the screw threads after a new distributor was doing the same thing. works like a charm.
Hey man thanks for the video I will go get a can of carb cleaner and see if that's the issues am facing
I have a GA16, almost similar to the engine shown, just a different intake manifold, My problem is that the car has like a dead spot/misfire when idling as well as driving, which comes and goes, changed fuel pump, spark plugs, ht cables, which seemed to work for a while then it came back recently, any surggetions where to look next?
jordan botha have you checked your distributor cap for cracks and scorching? Also, make sure you don't have a vacuum leak. I know this is a long shot but how old is your battery?
Thank you very much... I'll have to fix mine now 👌👍
This saved me rn 🙏🏼 thank you
doesn't the distributer have an offset key which have to line up no matter how much you spin the rotor? so even you put in a brand new distributor isn't it supposed to line up with the keyway on the cam shaft?
When can I get the distributor for this model I've looked for it everywhere even Spares shops can't find it
nice vid bro. i have b13 eccs GA16DE engine. my distri cap has tiny oil leak but its not drippin its just like its just go out on the cap. Should I change the shaft seal or just check the inside cap first.
2nd question is does ignition coil with oil on it affect the starting problems in the engine? thanks hope you can help me.
ALL NISSAN DISTRIBUTORS LEAK OIL...
I'm running into a random no crank issue will my 1995 Nissan Sentra been going on for a year now ,I'm going to have to eliminate a starter issue because it would have been long gone by now because it's a daily driver it's not a battery post that is corroded they are clean I'm going to have to rule out any shift lock solenoid issues because I can hear that engage I stopped pulling the key out of the ignition for the most part it seems to remedy the issue has anybody else had this problem ?
Yup,will just get worse to one day it wont start,just crank. Mines been down a year almost, changed relays,fuel pump etc. And nothing. But did notice the fuel pump doesnt activate when key on, but does so directly. So that is issue,but cant find were to fix it to work.
If U look it up U will find that the rotor screw or where it screws into is defective n strips out new rotor n screw generally takes care of the problem
I did actually try that but I found out that the threads on the rotor shaft were the real issue. I tried a new screw, using a slightly bigger screw, using a lock washer, using loctite. None of them actually worked as a long term solution
@@BrunsBwlr I see we just went through this same thing on my neighbors 99 Nissan Sentra I had a heads up on the problem when working on my son's 99 Nissan Quest is a very common problem for most Nissan's around those years thanks for the video👍
i hope this works for my car... i think we have the same problem...
Greetings, is it possible to use a Nissan ECU with the wire harness to operate a Toyota engine if added the crankshaft sensor map sensor and also the coil pack and throttle body to the Toyota engine
I'm going to be honest and say I'm not sure. What I do know is that those sensors would have to fit and operate properly in an engine it probably wasn't made for. That wiring harness would have to be able to reach all the same components as the Nissan engine and how that the connectors are the same as well. I'm not saying it can't be done, I just don't know.
@@BrunsBwlr the sensors probably won't be timed the same
Travis
Codes 300 and 1320 on nissan 1998. Rear brake lights fixed.
Any help is most appreciated
Steven
I was reading up on the code and it seems to me that you could have a bad camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor or both. It could also be the pcm but let's start simple first
i have nissan b14. but there is a problem with a distributer. how can I identify the suitable distributor for my car. i have already tried few distributers. but no result. PLEASE HELP ME
I have nissan sentra 96 super saloon GA16DE B14 engine. I'm not sure what the problem is, but whenever I crank start the engine and slowly move up or down the distributor, the engine starts...there's a bit of misfiring then sometimes it will just turn off. And then when I crank start it again, it requires me to move the distributor again.
Cuz it's a new one i put on u know what was the problem it was the sincere by the transmission
I'm sorry, what was the problem?
Hi, what did you say you used to clean the sensor? I can't understand it well.
What size screw should I buy
My armature piece doesn’t have a screw in it how do I get it off
Hey guys you are very smart. I have 96 sentra 1.4 engine same as in the video. I my car ran well. I started it up and letting it warm up it died and won't start back up. What do you think it is? Clean the sensor like you did? Also I have no spark but do smell fuel.
If you have no spark, definitely check your distributor. It may need to be cleaned or replaced.
Check for scorching inside the distributor cap as well
@@BrunsBwlr bought a new car and rotor still won't start. How do i get the coil out from under the cap?i meant cap
Did you clean the sensor?
@@BrunsBwlr yes sir. I need to get the coil out of the diatributor but can't figure out how. I'm not a mechanic by any means.
How can I fix my dash lights and other like radio and lights. Everything is off inside and out. I only drive the car during the day. My battery also drains sometimes also.
Check the fuses under steering wheel toward the driver door.
Life saver!
ROTOR(Rotates to each plug firing position)...STATOR ASSEMBLY (Magnetic pick up...let's computer know what plug to fire...)
carb cleaner is really good for this because it dries quickly
Thanks for replying!
not a problem! good luck!
+Rashaun Ransom with the blown head gasket most of the time if the car runs it will run poorly and sometimes die. I would definitely suggest changing the head gasket as soon as possible. As far as the second car is concerned, if the car was low on oil and you heard a snap, chances are your engine is done especially if it won't even turn over.
Hey bro what kind of spray you used on this
@Travis Bromley, did you get a PO340 code for the camshaft position sensor? Because mine has this code come up and i tried so start but only got the "crank no start" episode on my sentra. I'm already about to bit the bullet on a new distributor system.
It's been a long time since that video that I don't remember for sure but I believe so. What have you tried so far?
Travis Bromley so far, i've tried the starting fluid and a spark tester. No luck
MILES TUPAS unfortunately, you may need a new distributor then. Camshaft sensors can go bad on you. Did you have any other codes besides the p0340?
I had the same P0340 code but I also initially had a P0605 code (ECM) also . I scanned again after I went down the list in the technician service manual from NICO club and scanned again after clearing codes and I only got the P0340 code.I am going to see if I can spray like you guys did. We'll see , although maybe just some canned air rather than residue up the optical lens.
Same ride lights turn everything on but no start. One time my car wouldn't start so I went under the hood and tapped the battery and moved the cords abit and started right up then left on the go everything was fine then I parked again for bout 20min tried starting again nothing then just left it overnight at friends the next morning it started right up again and took me me all the way home that was actually 30-40 miles now I'm at home it won't start agian. What could possibly be the problem?
Make sure the battery terminals are tight. May also be the starter having intermittent issues
@@BrunsBwlr that could be the problem but how can you/I tell? I thought it could also be the alternator
@@jeffersonnez9814 if your alternator was going out, your battery would most likely not stay charged which would mean you'd have to jump it or the battery could die while driving causing the car to shut off. If you go to start the car but it won't even turn over and all you hear is a "click", this could indicate a bad starter.
Is the crankshaft sensor on 1997 nissan sentra behind the starter?
No, in the 1.6L sentra 1997 vehicles it is on the front side below the distributor on the automatic trtansmission housing. But, it is not considered for ignition purposes by the ECM you can disconnect the crankshaft sensor and the engine will keep running or it will start with no issues.
i like the moskito visit see what you doing
hey did you ever make that video about replacing the distributor? my fathers is cranking but wont start, tried this, but the part looks fairly new.
I have not done that video yet. Have you checked for spark yet? Do you smell gas after you've tried to start it?
+Travis Bromley i checked the spark plugs and they look at least 4-5 years old. conpletely rusted up. unfortunately, whoever last did the plugs broke the gaskets around the packs so when i go to push the plug wires back in, there is no sealing and it pops right out. we tried starting it anyway and now its making the strangest sound ive ever heard. its like a crank with no hiccup. so the starter seems to be spinning freely without touching the flywheel? this car is getting close to heading to the junkyard man haha
+Angel Salazar Which gaskets are you referring to? When the wires go down on the top of the plugs they should fit firmly around the top of the plug
The entrance of the hole where alll the way at the bottom you find the spark plug. That top is where the wire fits snug and holds pressure. Well its no longer holding pressure so it doesnt hold onto the spark plug.
Hey I'm having a p1320 crank no start change the distributor and crankshaft position sensor still no start and fuses are good what should I check next acts like it wants to start but wont
Have you replaced any electronic components? If not, check your distributor wiring for corrosion or breaks in the wire. Modern cars are so heavily dependent on computers that if the ecm gets an incorrect signal, it could mean a no start condition. If you have a dmm, check for voltage.
just ohm it pretty much
Ohming is a good start but remember, ohming proves that there is continuity but it doesn't always prove integrity. If you think about a cluster of wires, only one wire needs to be connected to show continuity but one wire can't produce the needed current. Just some food for thought.
Mi nissan sentta año 98 me el problema de que cuando le hecho gasolina me cuesta que arranque de 3 a 4 minutos que piedo hacer.???
Algún código de diagnóstico?
What about if u getting lights on the dash but no start and is not the starter
Nicholas Isaac It could be your battery or the connection to the battery. If you have corrosion on the battery terminal or in the wires, it causes high resistance. How did you verify that your starter was not the issue?
cool thanks for the video
I'm glad this video helped you!
That’s amazingly I will try it, on my vehicle, I have an 1998 Nissan Altima
Mine starts but drains the 🔋. Changed the battery alternator interior harness and fuse box, the inside gauge lights won't work n that's when it's not charging the battery or sending any signals to the rest of the car
If the battery and alternator are new and working as they should, you have a parasitic draw somewhere. Something is using power when it shouldn't. Check to make sure nothing is staying on. Sometimes lights with bad switches will stay on or aftermarket components will drain the battery. Even though you changed out the harness, the component that a connector is hooked to could still have an issue.
What size screw did u use to keep the rotor on
UNKNOWN...BUT DO NOT LOSE THAT NUT...SPECIAL THREAD....
On my 95 Sentra I can only hear the starter click, battery is good any suggestions please
L1dechuy09 How old is your battery? Is there any corrosion on the wires at the battery? The reason I ask is because the starter needs as many cranking amps as the battery can provide. If you don't have enough amperage, the starter won't turn, but you'll hear the starter solenoid engage. Sometimes as time passes, the battery can still hold the same voltage, but is not able to produce the amperage it once could. Sometimes the starter is bad as well.
Check for starter
I have an issue with my nissan sentra 1998, 1.6 SI injector
it has a hiccup, like a jerk when accelerating or under load, I have replaced the TPS and my airflow works well as well as my fuel pump, but the problem still persists,
HELP
Do you have a check engine light? I would make sure you have adequate fuel pressure. There could be other restrictions in the line, such as the filter. Another issue on the fuel side could be injectors. As they age, they may not be able to deliver the fuel properly. How do your spark plug wires look? What about your distributor cap and rotor? Are they scorched or cracked?
@@BrunsBwlr the fuel seems to be okay, ive never changed the injectors but they were once taken in for cleaning, the spark cables were replaced, however once the seal in the distributor was leaking oil onto the ignition coil pack, I can't tell if thats the problem cause I got the car with this leak, although I did replace that seal
@@BrunsBwlr I am uploading a video now, it should be online in the next few, I'll let you know and you tell me what you think?
Where are you uploading to?
@@BrunsBwlr ua-cam.com/video/W3XB_u6RPx8/v-deo.html
Check this link
My car is sentra 160 si no 1 and no4 not working
Mine wants to stall after only a few miles. Temp needle rises as well.
Could this be the same problem? Did you get a code?
I don't believe it is the same. I had no codes. What codes do you have?
@@BrunsBwlr
I have not checked yet and I believe you're right about not being the same problem.
Let me know what codes you have if any
@@BrunsBwlr
Thanks much. Was going to suggest but did not want to be presumptuous
Not a problem. I would like to help as much as I can
So what happened when it driving and when you get at it and take you no rave
Horace Empty I'm sorry but I don't understand the last part of your comment. Before we cleaned the sensor, the car would very rarely start. When the the did start, it ran horribly.
Nissan center start dont run 0. 10
Hi!!
Did you made the new distributor and timing video?
Mines stalls when put in gear and mash gas. What is the problem?
For a car to run, it needs combustion and combustion needs 3 things: fuel, oxygen, and an ignition source. If your car starts, it means you're getting all 3. As you step on the gas, the demand for all 3 is increased. If one or more of the 3 can't the car could stall. With that being said, start bu checking your fuel filter, your air filter, and your spark plugs wires and distributor assuming that you have them.
Travis Bromley the car was parked for 3 months so I put in new spark plugs and changed the plug wires as well but I had to replace the fuel pump hose becuz it got corroded in the gas tank so I think Ama change the fuel filter. What do you think?
It couldn't hurt. You should be able to blow through them almost as easily as you could a straw. After 3 months the gas may have started going bad as well. Also, did you change the actual fuel pump or just the hose?
Travis Bromley I changed the hose but not fuel filter. The pump is working fine
Topgasket replacs
I not kno if you received msg but its under ur prrvious comment.
I did mines and now the car not starting... What the cause
Make sure the screw didn't fall out of the hole that hooks the rotor
Reset the timing
had to change my gas filter in mine to start
Sometimes you can blow them out and put them back in in a pinch.
Can wd40 work to clean it?
Nicholas Isaac I would not use wd-40. That is a penetrating oil and will leave oil behind which will attract dirt which is what you're trying to get rid of. I would stick to a brake cleaner or carb cleaner type spray.
Panu malalaman kng wakang kuryente ang distributor
ah filipino ka? ako din
My nissan sentra 1998 wont turn over
Where is the fuel filter on a 97 Sentra
Quido Miranda follow the air box to the mass airflow sensor and then look behind it and down a little ways. If you still can't find it, follow the fuel line from the fuel rail from the right side. Let me know if you still need some direction.
Thanks when I start the car I have to give it gas to start but I noticed a strong smell of gas and noticed a wet spot under the front driver side any idea
Do you know if the wet spot is gas for sure?
Where is the first video?
this video was simply the second video of the series of videos I've done on my Nissan series. please let me know if you'd like to see something in particular. Feedback is always welcome!
Got an 01 Sentra SE 2.0 that won't crank. Turn key & nothing 9 out of 10 times. When it cranks it will drive for 1/2 hr. I know the battery is good, leaning to the Crank position sensor in the shifter (Automatic) or the ignition switch itself. Any thoughts?
Sounds like it could be your starter for the starting issue. Does the just die after 30 minutes? Can you describe what it does after 30 minutes?
Just using 30 minutes as an example that once cranked it runs flawlessly.The only problem is it doesn't crank but 1 of every 10 tries. When you turn the switch it does not crank- no sound other than u can hearing some relays click. It won't turn over. Tried shifting to Neutral then back to Park- no change.
I actually had this problem with my car as well. I could push the shifter just a little further forward and it would start for me. However, shortly after I had to replace my starter. There was a piece that was broken in the starter which prevented the starter solenoid from engaging all the time. It became a real problem.
Well am from Trinidad an Trinidad dont HV that cab cleaner
Spit on it
Not getting a code
What has been replaced so far?
@@BrunsBwlras far as I can tell, spark plugs and wires, an electronic device in distributor (ran better for a short while), fuel pump and filters and a new battery.
She states that engine light flashes and motor lumber at about 1 miles running: even her tail lights stay on with key in accessories mode.
I told her to reset ecm and go from there. My honda had similar symptoms but it was a distributer replacement that solved the problem.
1993 Honda accord stn wagon with 371k
For the brake lights, check the brake pedal switch bumper at the top of the brake pedal where it pushes on the switch. Usually you have misfires when the check engine flashes. The CEL will flash when there is a chance that the catalytic converter will be damaged. I'm starting to wonder if the catalytic converter is clogged. You can check a cat with a pressure gauge.
@@BrunsBwlr
Thanks and will get back