I've taken Roger Hurkmans advice on board with my dioramas, he says to try to build them as compactly as possible to try and tell the viewer the story straight away. Your latest work does exactly that! Awesome work Mate 👏
Thank you my friend 🙏 Roger’s work is incredible isn’t it! Keeping things compact is a great philosophy for sure. I’m already starting to think about my next one 🤔😎😬🙏
Very nice diorama Clayton! Creating interesting and realistic scenes is not easy, I have one diorama but I never really completed it the way I pictured it to be but I think I will have a go at another one soon.
Hello again Gary. I'd encourage you to revisit it. Although time consuming, I found the whole thing strangely addictive. Appreciate you joining in the conversation 🙏
A good video with presentation and explanations. A nice guide for creating such a diorama. The result is more than convincing, Clayton. A great work, explained with tips to achieve a result like yours. 👍 Best wishes and a nice weekend. Joachim
Outstanding job Clayton, definitely one to be proud of. With regards to using styrene as floorboards, after you've scribed the individual boards, give the entire sheet a good scrub with a brass wire brush just to introduce a wood grain look that can be accentuated with a pin wash. As a totally random piece of information, the panzerfaust could not be fired on a downward angle. Once the sight was flipped up (firing mode), the retaining clip that held the projectile place retracted leaving the warhead just sitting within the launch tube. Point it downwards and the warhead would just fall out and hopefully NOT explode at ones feet.
Hey Lysander. I’d usually use a razor saw to add the grain in styrene, but felt being 1/72 it might look too pronounced. Appreciate the suggestion though. Panzerfaust. Terrific insight. Thanks for sharing. I didn’t know that. Let’s keep it quiet though cause it would render my diorama unrealistic 🤯😬🫣 Anyways appreciate your thoughtful input 🙏🍺
Good job! I’m also new into the diorama business as I just focused on building and building kits and decided to do this because honestly, that was the original plan 😂. I recently bought a book by Shepard Paine on “how to build dioramas” so if you can get the book, I recommend it, it is full of tricks and even material suggestions. Now on a suggestion I would have used popsicle sticks instead of the material that you used for the floor planks. Yeah they’re hard to cut them into shape and once cut, they look uniform compared to weather downed but they give a really good realistic effect of wood because it’s wood 😂. So probably once painted, you don’t have to waste paint in adding realistic elements as I would also used actual dirt or even mud on the rubble. Probably over time it would go away and even fall off but would save material. In addition, good move in changing the shape of the base. One recommendation that Paine gives is that never adjust the model for the base, adjust the base to the model so good move in changing the base
Hello there! Thanks for your thoughtful comments. I had all of Sheps books as a kid. Read them from cover to cover many times over! Wish I knew where they were now 🤔 Appreciate you connecting 🙏🍺💪
Saw the dio on facebook and finally came around to watching the video! When you encountered the problem of the 3D-base being too small, I felt reminded of one of my favourite builds where I wanted to display a 1/72 StuG E-100 and had a resin-base that was too small as well... I ended up adding enxtended sections to it whioch was an interesting project as I had to match the style of the original resin base which had a bunch of detail on it. It was a really interesting experience that though me a bit about detailed groundwork. Something I want to do more for my dioramas is to use "professional" wooden bases to really give a good foundation in an effort to bring the overall quality up even more... although your option of encasing it in an informative text-print is intriguing as well. Keep up your great work mate 👍
Oh man! The thought of trying to match up the stones to the existing base would give me nightmares! How did it turn out? And without doubt, finishing your bases off nicely and professionally really lifts a model doesn’t it? Thanks again for joining in 🙏🍺
@@workbenchhobbies4316A good finish on the base surely lifts any build to it´s full potential... nothing worse than having some detracting elements because corners were cut! My base-experiment turned out quite nice as I did not have to do cobblestones, but was centered more around finding fitting plaster-pieces to mirror the rubble included on my resin base. Also, adding some extras on the existing base as well as the extension helped tying things togehter nicely.
Although you might not be as experienced in this sphere of modelling as other,this Looks Amazing! As you said,this diorama has a story in it,which I think is the whole point of dooramas. Really Great work Clayton and I hope you Can do something this amazing for maybe 1/35 :)
Hi Clayton! I have to say that for someone who professes to be ‘intimidated’ by the thought of building a diorama, you have aced it with this one. Your methods and eye for detail, have produced an outstanding result, that tells the story you envisioned beautifully. A great result, and I am looking forward to watching you work on more of these projects in the future. Cheers for now mate!
Excellent and inspiring modelling and painting. I have the Pegasus "Germans in Berlin", it's one of the most useful figures sets available. Volksturm, Volksgrenadiers, Infatntry, Partisans, Civilians, Panzer Lehr, Maquis, Poles etc can all be made from this set, which comes with its own diorama bases.
Hey 👋 thanks for watching. Sure thing, nothing stopping using something to stamp them out. Only thing I’d be concerned with is they might look too uniform. Really appreciate the idea though. Thanks for taking the time to connect 🙏🍺💪
Thank you to everyone for their generous support - the simple act of liking, subscribing and commenting helps me grow this content. If you'd like to support the channel in a greater way you could always - BUY ME A COFFEE - buymeacoffee.com/workbenchhobbies Or you could always connect with the community we are building over on the Patreon Page www.patreon.com/user?u=87702055
nice video, congratulations. just a couple of observations. working with resin is always dangerous. rather than cutting the base, i would have tried to insert it into the foam base you used and try to replicate the street pattern to integrate it with the resin. or just create the walls and debris already with the printer. i didn't really see the site you showed, with all the types of vignettes available. maybe i'm wrong, but they looked very similar to the miniart scenery kits. i hope the site owner doesn't have copyright issue 😄 all the best, Alessandro
Hi Alessandro. Great idea about sinking into the foam. It can just be a little tricky to try and seamlessly match it in with the foam. The site is cults3d. Check it out. Definitely not miniart rip-offs (at least not that I could tell) Thanks for taking the time to comment 🙏😎👍
Well done, it looks fantastic. I wish I had a 3D printer and the skill to work with it though, but I’m a bit of a noob when it comes down to those things.
Honestly, take the plunge. They are getting so affordable now and really expand your options in the hobby. The only way to learn is to do… break a few eggs to make an omelette 🍳 🫣😬
Superb job Clayton!! Looked like a time consuming but very rewarding process. I liked your use of acetate for the windows, very effective. In your view do you think that would translate well to 1/35 or 1/48? What is the material that you printed the pictures/description on? It is very effective and looks like it was printed directly on to the base.
Hey Andrew. Acetate sheet comes in different thicknesses, so just choose the most scale appropriate one and it will work. The base…I own a sign shop, so I have access to professional gear…but pretty sure officeworks would be able to make something similar. Great to see you here again mate 😎🍺🙏
Hi. The design is all done through Adobe Illustrator, but really you could do it through anything. The print is done on a digital printer (I have access to sign printers) on vinyl and then mounted to a thin styrene. There is a mounting film on the back of the styrene. You’d probably have to go see your local sign shop or officeworks for them to print it for you. Alternatively if you printed on paper, laminated to and used double sided tape you would get a similar result Hope that helps
Thanks for posting this, Clayton. I'm in the same boat you were at the beginning of this: wanting to expand into some simple dioramas, but with no idea where to start and intimidated by the process. Where did you find the perfectly-sized foam cylinder? And I'd love to know more about how you printed the display around it.
Hi Kevin. Im kicking myself I didn't film cutting the foam...but it was cut using a hot wire cutter. The tool comes with a jig that you pierce the foam on a centre pin that allows you to slowly rotate it across the hot wire element. Cutting the cylinder did take a couple of attempts, but I got there in the end. Re the printed display... I have a bit of an unfair advantage in the fact I own a sign shop / graphic design business… so I have access to a lot of professional gear. But to answer your question, the base was printed using a Roland Eco-Sol printer. This allows me to print on self adhesive vinyl which is then laminated to a styrene sheet with mounting film on the rear. Pretty sure Roland sell a desktop version of the printer… but if I was you I’d befriend your local sign shop and ask them to print it for you. It would be more about getting the design right so you can give them a print ready file. I use Illustrator but there would be a lot of other design software options out there that didn’t cost what the Adobe stuff does Hope that helps :) 🕺🏼
yeah right... that would be a nightmare! In saying that I have been thinking about that and how I'd do it. I think if you had two laser cut acrylic discs on the top and bottom of the foam you could use it as a guide. The wire shouldn't be hot enough to cut the acrylic (as long as you kept it moving)... you'd just need to invest in getting the circle 'templates' cut in the first place... I might give it a try.....@@kevinfutter
I try to lock all my guides in place and then move slowly. Usually takes me a few goes to get one I’m happy with. Temperamental machine for sure! Thanks for joining in 💪👍🙏
I've taken Roger Hurkmans advice on board with my dioramas, he says to try to build them as compactly as possible to try and tell the viewer the story straight away. Your latest work does exactly that!
Awesome work Mate 👏
Thank you my friend 🙏 Roger’s work is incredible isn’t it! Keeping things compact is a great philosophy for sure. I’m already starting to think about my next one 🤔😎😬🙏
Thats the bets diorama ive ever seen in 1/72nd scale!! Well done🎉😮
Oh wow! thank you! Thats very generous of you to say. Appreciate you taking the time to connect. 🙏
Very nice diorama Clayton! Creating interesting and realistic scenes is not easy, I have one diorama but I never really completed it the way I pictured it to be but I think I will have a go at another one soon.
Hello again Gary. I'd encourage you to revisit it. Although time consuming, I found the whole thing strangely addictive. Appreciate you joining in the conversation 🙏
A good video with presentation and explanations. A nice guide for creating such a diorama.
The result is more than convincing, Clayton. A great work, explained with tips to achieve a result like yours. 👍
Best wishes and a nice weekend. Joachim
Thank Joachim. Always great seeing you here in the comments. Appreciate your support 🙏
Outstanding job Clayton, definitely one to be proud of. With regards to using styrene as floorboards, after you've scribed the individual boards, give the entire sheet a good scrub with a brass wire brush just to introduce a wood grain look that can be accentuated with a pin wash. As a totally random piece of information, the panzerfaust could not be fired on a downward angle. Once the sight was flipped up (firing mode), the retaining clip that held the projectile place retracted leaving the warhead just sitting within the launch tube. Point it downwards and the warhead would just fall out and hopefully NOT explode at ones feet.
Hey Lysander. I’d usually use a razor saw to add the grain in styrene, but felt being 1/72 it might look too pronounced. Appreciate the suggestion though.
Panzerfaust. Terrific insight. Thanks for sharing. I didn’t know that. Let’s keep it quiet though cause it would render my diorama unrealistic 🤯😬🫣
Anyways appreciate your thoughtful input 🙏🍺
Great diorama, looks really good Clayton, it all compliments each other.
Thanks John. Haven’t forgotten your generous offer. Just trying to find an opportunity 🫣😬
@@workbenchhobbies4316 All good Clayton, they will be here when you can get a chance to pick them up.
Thanks mate 🙏
Good job! I’m also new into the diorama business as I just focused on building and building kits and decided to do this because honestly, that was the original plan 😂. I recently bought a book by Shepard Paine on “how to build dioramas” so if you can get the book, I recommend it, it is full of tricks and even material suggestions. Now on a suggestion I would have used popsicle sticks instead of the material that you used for the floor planks. Yeah they’re hard to cut them into shape and once cut, they look uniform compared to weather downed but they give a really good realistic effect of wood because it’s wood 😂. So probably once painted, you don’t have to waste paint in adding realistic elements as I would also used actual dirt or even mud on the rubble. Probably over time it would go away and even fall off but would save material. In addition, good move in changing the shape of the base. One recommendation that Paine gives is that never adjust the model for the base, adjust the base to the model so good move in changing the base
Hello there! Thanks for your thoughtful comments. I had all of Sheps books as a kid. Read them from cover to cover many times over! Wish I knew where they were now 🤔
Appreciate you connecting 🙏🍺💪
@@workbenchhobbies4316 you are most welcome. And by the way (I really have to do this as I am a fan of it)
“General kenobi!” 🤣🤣
I’m glad you picked up on it 😉
Saw the dio on facebook and finally came around to watching the video! When you encountered the problem of the 3D-base being too small, I felt reminded of one of my favourite builds where I wanted to display a 1/72 StuG E-100 and had a resin-base that was too small as well... I ended up adding enxtended sections to it whioch was an interesting project as I had to match the style of the original resin base which had a bunch of detail on it. It was a really interesting experience that though me a bit about detailed groundwork.
Something I want to do more for my dioramas is to use "professional" wooden bases to really give a good foundation in an effort to bring the overall quality up even more... although your option of encasing it in an informative text-print is intriguing as well.
Keep up your great work mate 👍
Oh man! The thought of trying to match up the stones to the existing base would give me nightmares! How did it turn out?
And without doubt, finishing your bases off nicely and professionally really lifts a model doesn’t it?
Thanks again for joining in 🙏🍺
@@workbenchhobbies4316A good finish on the base surely lifts any build to it´s full potential... nothing worse than having some detracting elements because corners were cut!
My base-experiment turned out quite nice as I did not have to do cobblestones, but was centered more around finding fitting plaster-pieces to mirror the rubble included on my resin base. Also, adding some extras on the existing base as well as the extension helped tying things togehter nicely.
Great stuff! Thanks for sharing 🙏🍺💪
Although you might not be as experienced in this sphere of modelling as other,this Looks Amazing! As you said,this diorama has a story in it,which I think is the whole point of dooramas. Really Great work Clayton and I hope you Can do something this amazing for maybe 1/35 :)
Thanks mate. Glad you liked it. Definitely looking to upscale soon!
Appreciate you taking the time to comment 🍺🙏
Turned out great really nice 👍
Thanks Eric. Appreciate you taking the time to connect 🙏🍺🥃
Mate, As always outstanding work!! Keep it up. Jon'o
Thanks buddy. Grateful for your support
Really cool effects.
Thanks 😀 Glad you enjoyed it 🙏🍺
Hi Clayton! I have to say that for someone who professes to be ‘intimidated’ by the thought of building a diorama, you have aced it with this one. Your methods and eye for detail, have produced an outstanding result, that tells the story you envisioned beautifully. A great result, and I am looking forward to watching you work on more of these projects in the future. Cheers for now mate!
Thanks Gary. Truly grateful for your support and encouragement 🙏🍺💪😎
Awesome job mate! Very talented ❤
Thanks buddy. Better modeller than golfer huh!
wow nice job you made it looks good keep them coming
Thank you, I will 🙏🍺
Excellent and inspiring modelling and painting. I have the Pegasus "Germans in Berlin", it's one of the most useful figures sets available. Volksturm, Volksgrenadiers, Infatntry, Partisans, Civilians, Panzer Lehr, Maquis, Poles etc can all be made from this set, which comes with its own diorama bases.
Hey 👋 Yeah, versatile set for sure. Not the best quality but good enough in a busy scene for sure. Appreciate you taking the time to connect 🙏😎🍺
Very nice indeed. What aboutt using a paint brush ferrule to stamp the stone blocks in the road way .
Great video throughly enjoyable .
Hey 👋 thanks for watching. Sure thing, nothing stopping using something to stamp them out. Only thing I’d be concerned with is they might look too uniform. Really appreciate the idea though.
Thanks for taking the time to connect 🙏🍺💪
Thank you to everyone for their generous support - the simple act of liking, subscribing and commenting helps me grow this content. If you'd like to support the channel in a greater way
you could always - BUY ME A COFFEE - buymeacoffee.com/workbenchhobbies
Or you could always connect with the community we are building over on the Patreon Page
www.patreon.com/user?u=87702055
This is so cool. I'm in the process of sculpting 3D model terrain for my Patreon members
Oh! Sweet - send me a link. I’d love to have a peek 💪👍🙏
Very Enjoyable watch. Good job on both the dio and the vid production.
Glad you enjoyed it! Appreciate you taking the time to connect 🙏🍺
nice video, congratulations. just a couple of observations. working with resin is always dangerous. rather than cutting the base, i would have tried to insert it into the foam base you used and try to replicate the street pattern to integrate it with the resin. or just create the walls and debris already with the printer. i didn't really see the site you showed, with all the types of vignettes available. maybe i'm wrong, but they looked very similar to the miniart scenery kits. i hope the site owner doesn't have copyright issue 😄 all the best, Alessandro
Hi Alessandro. Great idea about sinking into the foam. It can just be a little tricky to try and seamlessly match it in with the foam.
The site is cults3d. Check it out. Definitely not miniart rip-offs (at least not that I could tell)
Thanks for taking the time to comment 🙏😎👍
Brilliant
Thanks mate. Glad you enjoyed it 🙏
Well done, it looks fantastic. I wish I had a 3D printer and the skill to work with it though, but I’m a bit of a noob when it comes down to those things.
Honestly, take the plunge. They are getting so affordable now and really expand your options in the hobby. The only way to learn is to do… break a few eggs to make an omelette 🍳 🫣😬
Thanks for the advice, I’m thinking about it. Unfortunately there’s also no room to put it 😂
Yeah! I hear you there…! Set it up in your bedroom and sleep in the car? 🙈🫣🤯
Oh you’re funny.
🙈
Superb job Clayton!! Looked like a time consuming but very rewarding process.
I liked your use of acetate for the windows, very effective. In your view do you think that would translate well to 1/35 or 1/48?
What is the material that you printed the pictures/description on? It is very effective and looks like it was printed directly on to the base.
Hey Andrew. Acetate sheet comes in different thicknesses, so just choose the most scale appropriate one and it will work.
The base…I own a sign shop, so I have access to professional gear…but pretty sure officeworks would be able to make something similar.
Great to see you here again mate 😎🍺🙏
Can you expound on how you added the graphics to the base? I am intending to do this on future projects and like the look of yours.
Hi. The design is all done through Adobe Illustrator, but really you could do it through anything. The print is done on a digital printer (I have access to sign printers) on vinyl and then mounted to a thin styrene. There is a mounting film on the back of the styrene.
You’d probably have to go see your local sign shop or officeworks for them to print it for you.
Alternatively if you printed on paper, laminated to and used double sided tape you would get a similar result
Hope that helps
당신의 작품에 대한 훌륭한 정보는 나의 작품 제작에 큰 도움이 됩니다. 감사합니다.
Fantastic! So pleased to hear it’s helping people with their own work. Thank you for taking the time to comment 🙏😀
Thanks for posting this, Clayton. I'm in the same boat you were at the beginning of this: wanting to expand into some simple dioramas, but with no idea where to start and intimidated by the process. Where did you find the perfectly-sized foam cylinder? And I'd love to know more about how you printed the display around it.
Hi Kevin. Im kicking myself I didn't film cutting the foam...but it was cut using a hot wire cutter. The tool comes with a jig that you pierce the foam on a centre pin that allows you to slowly rotate it across the hot wire element. Cutting the cylinder did take a couple of attempts, but I got there in the end.
Re the printed display...
I have a bit of an unfair advantage in the fact I own a sign shop / graphic design business… so I have access to a lot of professional gear.
But to answer your question, the base was printed using a Roland Eco-Sol printer. This allows me to print on self adhesive vinyl which is then laminated to a styrene sheet with mounting film on the rear.
Pretty sure Roland sell a desktop version of the printer… but if I was you I’d befriend your local sign shop and ask them to print it for you. It would be more about getting the design right so you can give them a print ready file. I use Illustrator but there would be a lot of other design software options out there that didn’t cost what the Adobe stuff does
Hope that helps :) 🕺🏼
@@workbenchhobbies4316Thanks, Clayton. I've only got a hand-held hot wire cutter, and couldn't imagine trying to cut a perfect cylinder that way!
yeah right... that would be a nightmare! In saying that I have been thinking about that and how I'd do it. I think if you had two laser cut acrylic discs on the top and bottom of the foam you could use it as a guide. The wire shouldn't be hot enough to cut the acrylic (as long as you kept it moving)... you'd just need to invest in getting the circle 'templates' cut in the first place... I might give it a try.....@@kevinfutter
@@workbenchhobbies4316My hot wire cutter barely gets hot enough to cut the foam, let alone anything else!
😂
how do you cut so straight with the hot wire cutter? mine always seem to cut slant edges
I try to lock all my guides in place and then move slowly. Usually takes me a few goes to get one I’m happy with. Temperamental machine for sure!
Thanks for joining in 💪👍🙏
🤝🎥👍
🙏🍺