Nice work. Ive got a custom para 3 blade in magnacut and the guy that makes them runs them at 64-65hrc and its a totally different animal compared to magnacut at 63-64hrc. You wouldn't figure 1-2hrc would make a huge difference but it does.
I have come to notice over time, that my Shapton Pros have a tough time removing material once it starts hitting 64+ HRC. It'll sharpen, but at an incredibly slow pace and the stone gets eaten away more so than the steel. 64+ HRC I wind up going diamond or CBN and sometimes use Shapton to finish a polish or refined edge
I havent noticed hardness being an issue for the stones. It is usually a combination of high carbides with high hrc. One kind of goes with the other. Ive several japanese knives in the high 60s and have had no problems
@@Jef that's good to know. My experience has been CPM blade steels and EDC knives. So definitely carbides play a major part, it didn't occur to me. Awesome to bear in mind
Nice work Jef. That's a cool little knife. I love that shapton 120. Such an under rated stone. It's SNG, very hard, cuts like a demon, wears very slow, even does well with wide bevel work. No complaints. For those wondering, yes you can absolutely get hair splitting edges with nothing more than this stone and a single strop once you get the hang of it. A 120 grit edge has about 50% more slicing edge retention, it scores 50% higher on a CATRA test, vs. a polished edge, at the expense of toughness meaning it will be more likely to chip for obvious reason. The opposite is true for the polished edge, it wont cut as long but it will be more resistant to chipping. 400 grit seems to the drop off point where the curves meet in terms of edge retention vs toughness. This is all according to the inventor of MC steel but the actual tests were performed with AEBL.
Plenty of people don't understand the Shapton 120, have troubles with it, and then blame the stone. It is a finicky stone you need to understand how to use it. As to the effect of grit finish on CATRA results, the only data I have seen from Larrin Thomas is that grit finish makes effectively no difference. That said, when it comes to rope cut tests, I have found that a highly toothy edge can give *TEN TIMES* the edge retention of a polished edge.
I cant say if i have seen those types of results, but i do prefer a polished edge. Just bc the type of work i do requires push cutting. The shapton 120 is one of my favorite coarse stones. Wears a bit quickly with v bevels, but really shines on large surface areas. The friability makes it cut like a demon 👍
@@Jef For such a course stone I think the wear rate is excellent. As far as I can tell it wears slower than the 220 by quite a bit, the 220 sp is silicon carbide and a lot more friable. Especially with higher pressure. I got both at the same time and my 220 is half gone while my 120 looks new and I use it all the time. Love that thing. To others considering buying these stones, personally I'd get the 120 and the 320 and skip the 220.
@@Jef It's definitely worth exploring the effect of geometry and edge finish on edge retention cutting rope. This is one of the most important things I learned from Cliff Stamp. In addition to the 10X difference you see from apex finish, you'll see a 5X difference from geometry. And even more, these two don't merely add, they multiply. So if you compare a fat+polished edge against a thin+toothy edge you won't see a 15X difference, you'll see a 50X difference in edge retention. Armed with this knowledge it isn't even difficult to get a knife in 3Cr13 to cut more rope than most of the people doing rope cut tests are getting from any knives they are testing. All that said, you should apply the edge that works best for how you are using your knife.
My small Sebenza magnacut rolled and chipped when I cut a green sappling to roast marshmallows for the kids two years ago I know CRK does in house heat treat and I think maybe the heat treat is compromised but if not I am not impressed at all After several sharpenings on my wicked edge its still a problem but I haven’t bothered to send it in to CRK bc I have to many knives and too little time.
lol i work in the telephony industry. Maintenance tech. I have a video showing the mudd knife in use. Just search my channel for it. Quick video showing some of the cuts i make
@@Jef Could just be you have metal damaged from powered sharpening at the factory. It is not at all unusual for it to take several sharpenings to grind that away.
Thanks, I love rediscovering your channel
@@swamp.stomper thanks for checking it out 👊
I have two magnacut knives from Viper the vale and the basic 1...they never had a problems as this one and I love them
Yea i duno what happened here. Most likely my own fault and not the steel
@@Jef yeah this sh**t can happen 😁but no problem when you know how to sharp😉i have shapton pro too and work excellent
Nice work. Ive got a custom para 3 blade in magnacut and the guy that makes them runs them at 64-65hrc and its a totally different animal compared to magnacut at 63-64hrc. You wouldn't figure 1-2hrc would make a huge difference but it does.
Oh yea the difference between hrc points is exponential. Wild stuff 👍
Great video Jef as always thanks for sharing brother it’s much appreciated 👊🏼
You bet thanks for watching it 👊
I have come to notice over time, that my Shapton Pros have a tough time removing material once it starts hitting 64+ HRC. It'll sharpen, but at an incredibly slow pace and the stone gets eaten away more so than the steel. 64+ HRC I wind up going diamond or CBN and sometimes use Shapton to finish a polish or refined edge
I havent noticed hardness being an issue for the stones. It is usually a combination of high carbides with high hrc. One kind of goes with the other. Ive several japanese knives in the high 60s and have had no problems
@@Jef that's good to know. My experience has been CPM blade steels and EDC knives. So definitely carbides play a major part, it didn't occur to me. Awesome to bear in mind
Nice work Jef. That's a cool little knife. I love that shapton 120. Such an under rated stone. It's SNG, very hard, cuts like a demon, wears very slow, even does well with wide bevel work. No complaints. For those wondering, yes you can absolutely get hair splitting edges with nothing more than this stone and a single strop once you get the hang of it. A 120 grit edge has about 50% more slicing edge retention, it scores 50% higher on a CATRA test, vs. a polished edge, at the expense of toughness meaning it will be more likely to chip for obvious reason. The opposite is true for the polished edge, it wont cut as long but it will be more resistant to chipping. 400 grit seems to the drop off point where the curves meet in terms of edge retention vs toughness. This is all according to the inventor of MC steel but the actual tests were performed with AEBL.
Plenty of people don't understand the Shapton 120, have troubles with it, and then blame the stone. It is a finicky stone you need to understand how to use it. As to the effect of grit finish on CATRA results, the only data I have seen from Larrin Thomas is that grit finish makes effectively no difference. That said, when it comes to rope cut tests, I have found that a highly toothy edge can give *TEN TIMES* the edge retention of a polished edge.
I cant say if i have seen those types of results, but i do prefer a polished edge. Just bc the type of work i do requires push cutting. The shapton 120 is one of my favorite coarse stones. Wears a bit quickly with v bevels, but really shines on large surface areas. The friability makes it cut like a demon 👍
@@Jef For such a course stone I think the wear rate is excellent. As far as I can tell it wears slower than the 220 by quite a bit, the 220 sp is silicon carbide and a lot more friable. Especially with higher pressure. I got both at the same time and my 220 is half gone while my 120 looks new and I use it all the time. Love that thing. To others considering buying these stones, personally I'd get the 120 and the 320 and skip the 220.
Yea that’s been my experience too. The 220 pretty much disappears right in front of you
@@Jef It's definitely worth exploring the effect of geometry and edge finish on edge retention cutting rope. This is one of the most important things I learned from Cliff Stamp. In addition to the 10X difference you see from apex finish, you'll see a 5X difference from geometry. And even more, these two don't merely add, they multiply. So if you compare a fat+polished edge against a thin+toothy edge you won't see a 15X difference, you'll see a 50X difference in edge retention. Armed with this knowledge it isn't even difficult to get a knife in 3Cr13 to cut more rope than most of the people doing rope cut tests are getting from any knives they are testing.
All that said, you should apply the edge that works best for how you are using your knife.
Nice knife. I enjoyed the video.
Thanks for checking it out 👊
My small Sebenza magnacut rolled and chipped when I cut a green sappling to roast marshmallows for the kids two years ago
I know CRK does in house heat treat and I think maybe the heat treat is compromised but if not I am not impressed at all
After several sharpenings on my wicked edge its still a problem but I haven’t bothered to send it in to CRK bc I have to many knives and too little time.
Yea id def give em a ring and send it back.
I see several having chips on magnacut i cant understand it since i only have extremely good experience with it on both my customs
Yea my deka hasnt had this issue either 🤷♂️
@@Jef maybe some funky heat treats out there.
More likely something i did
@@Jef maybe
what do you do for work where you need to use that knife to that extent???
lol i work in the telephony industry. Maintenance tech. I have a video showing the mudd knife in use. Just search my channel for it. Quick video showing some of the cuts i make
Ahhh makes sense @@Jef
How many times had you sharpened that knife before it developed this chip?
This would be the second serious sharpening, but it was touched up a few times on spyderco med/uf once before.
@@Jef Could just be you have metal damaged from powered sharpening at the factory. It is not at all unusual for it to take several sharpenings to grind that away.
Possibly. Future use and sharpening will tell the tale. 👍
@@Jef Yeah, I wouldn't be at all concerned at this point.