D3 and 4 are great cars when they are running - my D3 is at 440,000km now and I'm surprised its still going considering what its been through (especially recently). They can be expensive to keep on the road at this mileage, even with doing my own maintenance - I'd hate to have to pay someone to do it all!
Also now have a small leak where the cam shaft is on the rear. May try retorquing the inlet down again and see if that helps. I am the point of selling the Range Rover now. It's getting old and now needs suspension issue sorting out etc. I also was told not to use sealant but coming from an engineering background, that area of rough casting over and around the camshaft, I regret not using an RTV or hight temp silicone. I am sure it would have helped.
Hi Mate thanks for the video...I have done both sides of mine about two years ago didn't done much driving though...I have noticed a severe leak running down the transmission coming from the top ..With investigation I found a leak on the driver's side at one of the Bolts... It ain't cracked...I noticed on the oil cooler there is little bit of oil on the right hand side to the front it doesn't look new Looks quite thick though where it's coming from I don't know one of my oring did leak on the throttle body t I am not to sure if I didn't clean It properly when I replaced that seals...I haven't put any RTV on the rocker gasket the first I done time ... i feel like I should have done It? This is rocker covers that I have bought from eBay could that be part of the problem not ( ome) I didn't re-torque it after a couple of kilometers should I? Do you think i got the oil cooler and rocker cover leaking with the oil running down the transmission like you mentioned in your clip..Do you suggest to replace the rocker covers or would you think re-torque would do the Job?, Should I put little bit of Blue Locktite on the bolts if I replace the rocker cover and should I put little bit of RTV for extra precaution...
Is there a recommended mileage that you should change the engine oil cooler? I have 240,000km on mine I’ve done the top coolant outlet in the last 15000km as I was very lucky in finding that one before damage happened. Thanks Paul.
There doesn't seem to be a set mileage that the engine oil cooler fails. The top coolant outlet though I recommend customers get it changed out at round every 70 - 80K.
Do not use any sealant on the rubber type gasket just make sure the top of the cylinder head is spotlessly clean. The workshop manual does say to put a small (tiny little smear) amount of sealant at the bottom edge in the corner where the cam caps touch the head. But I dont do this and most engines I have done never had any from factory. The new manifold has the gasket fitted with the bolts that have collars to keep the gasket in place while installing it.
Hi Mate I have done my rocker covers about two years ago I recently found oil leak running from transmission coming from the top I have put a camera on drivers side saw it's leaking on the side of the rocker cover where one of the Bolts are I didn't re-torque after I installed It also didn't apply any RTV when installing regretting That now..my local Land Rover Guy where i buy parts from (doesn't whant to give any advise) told me it ís because I used covers from e Bay I should have bought OME parts from him ($1000 for One cover) he claims eBay one's last only 6 months it's leaking on the side not cracked... You also got me going with the oil cooler I got tiny bit of oil on top of the oil cooler looks very thick almost dry and then the massive oil leak running down the transmission....I replaced the oil cooler before.... Can this be the main culprit... Should I replace the whole cover again with ome part will It be as simple as re-torque or or replacing only the oring gasket should I rather put very tiny bit of RTV on the gasket?
I wish I had seen this video a fortnight ago! Got the red triangle and Restricted performance up on the dash on a New Years Day trip to the coast. Limped home and got a mechanic friend to do some diagnostics via the OBD 2 connector. P006a fault code. Removed and cleaned MAP and MAF sensors which did not fix the problem. What I did notice though first was the black oily residue sitting on the drivers side inlet manifold with a black stain on the engine cover acoustic mat. I wondered what that signified. I do now!! Have been quoted $3700 to fix as a ball park figure. Is that a fair price. Cheers and enjoyed your video.
$3700 if that is AU dollars then that price is way over the top. My price is not the cheapest at $2600, if you shop around you will see prices as low as $1800
Many Thanks for your reply Daz.@@aztech4x4mechanical It's Aus $$. I guess it all depends on what is advised to replace while the inlet manifold is removed. I'm following the comments on AULRO forums. It would be good to film the removal process of the inlet manifold. I don't think there is such a video on the youtube. I might try doing it myself if someone would demonstrate how it can be done. Pease do more videos on the LRD4. I'm keen to learn how to look after and repair these vehicles. Cheers mate.
D3 and 4 are great cars when they are running - my D3 is at 440,000km now and I'm surprised its still going considering what its been through (especially recently). They can be expensive to keep on the road at this mileage, even with doing my own maintenance - I'd hate to have to pay someone to do it all!
Excellent video! Nice time to change that vacuum pump also maybe?
Discovery 4 3.0lt aren't prone to the vacuum pump failure as it's a later version. The early 2.7lt had some failures.
Also now have a small leak where the cam shaft is on the rear. May try retorquing the inlet down again and see if that helps. I am the point of selling the Range Rover now. It's getting old and now needs suspension issue sorting out etc. I also was told not to use sealant but coming from an engineering background, that area of rough casting over and around the camshaft, I regret not using an RTV or hight temp silicone. I am sure it would have helped.
Hi Mate thanks for the video...I have done both sides of mine about two years ago didn't done much driving though...I have noticed a severe leak running down the transmission coming from the top ..With investigation I found a leak on the driver's side at one of the Bolts... It ain't cracked...I noticed on the oil cooler there is little bit of oil on the right hand side to the front it doesn't look new Looks quite thick though where it's coming from I don't know one of my oring did leak on the throttle body t I am not to sure if I didn't clean It properly when I replaced that seals...I haven't put any RTV on the rocker gasket the first I done time ... i feel like I should have done It? This is rocker covers that I have bought from eBay could that be part of the problem not ( ome) I didn't re-torque it after a couple of kilometers should I? Do you think i got the oil cooler and rocker cover leaking with the oil running down the transmission like you mentioned in your clip..Do you suggest to replace the rocker covers or would you think re-torque would do the Job?, Should I put little bit of Blue Locktite on the bolts if I replace the rocker cover and should I put little bit of RTV for extra precaution...
Does disabling EGRs prolong the life of inlet manifolds? Considering they won't be clogged up?
Doing any sort of egr delete wont have any effect on cracking manifolds. Short runs, stop start, city driving is the biggest issue with a diesel.
Is there a recommended mileage that you should change the engine oil cooler? I have 240,000km on mine I’ve done the top coolant outlet in the last 15000km as I was very lucky in finding that one before damage happened. Thanks Paul.
There doesn't seem to be a set mileage that the engine oil cooler fails. The top coolant outlet though I recommend customers get it changed out at round every 70 - 80K.
@@aztech4x4mechanical thanks for the reply. I have read a lot of your advice on AULRO.
enjoyed your video and knowledge
Did you glue or use sealant to hold the gasket in place for the intake manifold?
Do not use any sealant on the rubber type gasket just make sure the top of the cylinder head is spotlessly clean. The workshop manual does say to put a small (tiny little smear) amount of sealant at the bottom edge in the corner where the cam caps touch the head. But I dont do this and most engines I have done never had any from factory. The new manifold has the gasket fitted with the bolts that have collars to keep the gasket in place while installing it.
Hi Mate I have done my rocker covers about two years ago I recently found oil leak running from transmission coming from the top I have put a camera on drivers side saw it's leaking on the side of the rocker cover where one of the Bolts are I didn't re-torque after I installed It also didn't apply any RTV when installing regretting That now..my local Land Rover Guy where i buy parts from (doesn't whant to give any advise) told me it ís because I used covers from e Bay I should have bought OME parts from him ($1000 for One cover) he claims eBay one's last only 6 months it's leaking on the side not cracked... You also got me going with the oil cooler I got tiny bit of oil on top of the oil cooler looks very thick almost dry and then the massive oil leak running down the transmission....I replaced the oil cooler before.... Can this be the main culprit... Should I replace the whole cover again with ome part will It be as simple as re-torque or or replacing only the oring gasket should I rather put very tiny bit of RTV on the gasket?
I wish I had seen this video a fortnight ago! Got the red triangle and Restricted performance up on the dash on a New Years Day trip to the coast. Limped home and got a mechanic friend to do some diagnostics via the OBD 2 connector. P006a fault code. Removed and cleaned MAP and MAF sensors which did not fix the problem. What I did notice though first was the black oily residue sitting on the drivers side inlet manifold with a black stain on the engine cover acoustic mat. I wondered what that signified. I do now!! Have been quoted $3700 to fix as a ball park figure. Is that a fair price. Cheers and enjoyed your video.
$3700 if that is AU dollars then that price is way over the top. My price is not the cheapest at $2600, if you shop around you will see prices as low as $1800
Many Thanks for your reply Daz.@@aztech4x4mechanical It's Aus $$. I guess it all depends on what is advised to replace while the inlet manifold is removed. I'm following the comments on AULRO forums. It would be good to film the removal process of the inlet manifold. I don't think there is such a video on the youtube. I might try doing it myself if someone would demonstrate how it can be done. Pease do more videos on the LRD4. I'm keen to learn how to look after and repair these vehicles. Cheers mate.
Is it possible to replace the Land rover motor with another Make!