@@Robservatory I believe your split diffraction spikes are due to tilt from the Focuser not from the spider vanes, I have the same scope but the one with the “good Focuser” and the diffraction spikes are nice and straight. So I would recommend another Focuser instead of the expensive spider vanes.
PRO TIP! After Primary collimation using main adjustment screws, finish up collimation iteratively with the lockdown screws till very snug to tight. Also for the primary, start with the main collimation screws fully clockwise and primary mirror bottomed out. Loosen one a full turn then use only two of the three screws to collimate. Do the secondary in the same manner/tightness and you shouldn't have to collimate hardly ever. Of course do the secondary first :P I have a 10 inch and collimation is solid for 6 months now and it's mounted/unmounted each night. Great video!
Great pro tips! I have been doing the same for a while and collimation seems to hold well. I will be doing a video solely about collimating soon and I’ll be sure to include your advice. Thanks!
@@Robservatory Cool! I rarely see mention of the rear fan and some actually block off the back altogether. In my experience I couldn't image without a baffled fan setup like you have. I tried using a lower CFM fan I had on hand, when my stock unit went out, but wound up getting all sorts of aberrations/ funky stars. The more air turbulence through the tube the sharper the image in my case. Huge difference. A filter on the fan help a ton too! Small scopes a clean beanie or something similar will help filter the dust! Have a great weekend.
Nice video; thanks Rob! For my next scope, I'd like to go Newtonian but have never been around one. These are great pointers to help us understand what is involved when you end up with one. Now I just need to decide whether its a 6" or and 8" tube. Cheers man!
I’ve done most of your upgrades to my 150p Quattro. Still use the dedicated coma corrector. And started with your clamp at the focuser but upgraded to the baader quick lock and works like a charm. Just turn to tighten or lose it.
Puzzled on the OAG recommendation. For a fast Newt guide stars should never be a problem on a relatively small-prism OAG? Due to the wider field of view and fast focal ratio.
Thanks for a very useful video :) Must be awesome having an f3 scope! But I also noticed you use 3nm filter, don’t you get a lot of bandpass shift with that combo? Maybe partially offsetting the fast f ratio?
That is a good point. Antlia claims the filters work down to f3, and they do. They lose some transmission, but I can’t fire out how much. I’d like to upgrade to the high speed version and probably will at some point. I am trying my best not to spend more money at the moment!
Just a quick follow up. I just heard that the Antlia 3nm pro have been tested at 95% transmission for a parallel beam and 88% at f3.3. I would guess they are around 80% at f3, and with the mirror mask, I am probably at f3.1 or so. I can live with these numbers!
It has been fine. I’m about to be a larger filter wheel and heavier camera on, so we’ll see if that makes a difference. It has been flawless with an EAF installed for a couple of years now.
Are there issues with mounting the camera and filter wheel "vertically" on the OTA eg does the EAF struggle ?, I have a problem with 3rd axis ballencing and the amount of weight needed . I'm hoping to get all the gear on top similar to yours. ( great video BTW)
No problem at all. I use a strain wave mount, so balancing is not an issue. On a traditional mount it is best to have the camera facing down to achieve a lower centre of gravity and better balance.
Having experienced difficulties collimating my fast f/4 Newtonian telescope, I strongly recommend the barlowed laser collimation technique. This method eliminates one of the biggest challenges of standard laser collimation - the need for perfectly perpendicular laser alignment. The barlowed laser technique is more precise and requires less trial and error. Best of all, most telescope owners likely already have the necessary equipment to try this method. It's worth giving it a shot to improve your collimation accuracy. ua-cam.com/video/BW6s59q-uME/v-deo.html
@3:55 Lovely image first of all. and those funky spikes I also kind of like.
Nice upgrade thoughts. But I would put a focuser upgrade as a higher priority on the list - the stock focuser sucks to say the least.
I haven’t had any issues with it, probably because of the EAF, which keeps it from slipping.
@@Robservatory I believe your split diffraction spikes are due to tilt from the Focuser not from the spider vanes, I have the same scope but the one with the “good Focuser” and the diffraction spikes are nice and straight. So I would recommend another Focuser instead of the expensive spider vanes.
@Lyrenoorfeu The spider vanes fixed the issue, thankfully!
PRO TIP! After Primary collimation using main adjustment screws, finish up collimation iteratively with the lockdown screws till very snug to tight. Also for the primary, start with the main collimation screws fully clockwise and primary mirror bottomed out. Loosen one a full turn then use only two of the three screws to collimate. Do the secondary in the same manner/tightness and you shouldn't have to collimate hardly ever. Of course do the secondary first :P
I have a 10 inch and collimation is solid for 6 months now and it's mounted/unmounted each night. Great video!
Great pro tips! I have been doing the same for a while and collimation seems to hold well. I will be doing a video solely about collimating soon and I’ll be sure to include your advice. Thanks!
@@Robservatory Cool! I rarely see mention of the rear fan and some actually block off the back altogether. In my experience I couldn't image without a baffled fan setup like you have. I tried using a lower CFM fan I had on hand, when my stock unit went out, but wound up getting all sorts of aberrations/ funky stars. The more air turbulence through the tube the sharper the image in my case. Huge difference. A filter on the fan help a ton too! Small scopes a clean beanie or something similar will help filter the dust!
Have a great weekend.
This was an excellent video with high production value.
Nice video; thanks Rob! For my next scope, I'd like to go Newtonian but have never been around one. These are great pointers to help us understand what is involved when you end up with one. Now I just need to decide whether its a 6" or and 8" tube. Cheers man!
8" all the way! Aperture is king!
I’ve done most of your upgrades to my 150p Quattro. Still use the dedicated coma corrector. And started with your clamp at the focuser but upgraded to the baader quick lock and works like a charm. Just turn to tighten or lose it.
Good upgrades. Might work on my Celestron Omni 150 XLT Newtonian Reflector.
Awesome Rob
I feel like a collimator should be number 1 on the list 😂
Puzzled on the OAG recommendation. For a fast Newt guide stars should never be a problem on a relatively small-prism OAG? Due to the wider field of view and fast focal ratio.
That’s right at 600 mm focal length or even less if you’re using a reducer, I would not recommend an OAG.
Not necessary. But there is also nothing wrong with using one that is how someone would prefer to arrange things.
Wow amazing shots ! Do you have a Google Drive folder with these pictures in High Definition to share with us ?
Thank you very much for this video.🔭
No worries!
Thanks for a very useful video :)
Must be awesome having an f3 scope! But I also noticed you use 3nm filter, don’t you get a lot of bandpass shift with that combo? Maybe partially offsetting the fast f ratio?
That is a good point. Antlia claims the filters work down to f3, and they do. They lose some transmission, but I can’t fire out how much. I’d like to upgrade to the high speed version and probably will at some point. I am trying my best not to spend more money at the moment!
Just a quick follow up. I just heard that the Antlia 3nm pro have been tested at 95% transmission for a parallel beam and 88% at f3.3. I would guess they are around 80% at f3, and with the mirror mask, I am probably at f3.1 or so. I can live with these numbers!
@@Robservatorythanks for your reply, ah I see. Well then your combo makes a lot sense :)
Very informative!
2:59 in my experience it isnt constant unless you are using your newt as a battering ram or your fasteners have sloppy tokerances.
What do you use for your camera and mount?
Hi. Are you satisfied with the Focuser?
It has been fine. I’m about to be a larger filter wheel and heavier camera on, so we’ll see if that makes a difference. It has been flawless with an EAF installed for a couple of years now.
Are there issues with mounting the camera and filter wheel "vertically" on the OTA eg does the EAF struggle ?, I have a problem with 3rd axis ballencing and the amount of weight needed . I'm hoping to get all the gear on top similar to yours. ( great video BTW)
No problem at all. I use a strain wave mount, so balancing is not an issue. On a traditional mount it is best to have the camera facing down to achieve a lower centre of gravity and better balance.
I need help locating the compression ring . Where can I find that at
First Light Optics
Where did you get the fan assembly?
Teleskop Express
@@Robservatory Can you share a link to the product?
@@fredcsjb2077 It looks like it is discontinued. It is called Asterion Cooler NT6. Hopefully you can find one somewhere!
@@Robservatory thank you! Been looking for something similar for my 10'' Newt
Muy bien amigo buenas tomas
Can you link the 6.5 piece I want to buy it
Which 6.5 piece do you mean? I just added some new links to the description.
Should have added Bobs Knobs for secondary collimation
no vibrations from the fan?
No, I attached it with several pieces of sticky Velcro. That helps to create a buffer between the fan and the telescope and reduces the vibrations.
Wow good work!
Having experienced difficulties collimating my fast f/4 Newtonian telescope, I strongly recommend the barlowed laser collimation technique. This method eliminates one of the biggest challenges of standard laser collimation - the need for perfectly perpendicular laser alignment.
The barlowed laser technique is more precise and requires less trial and error. Best of all, most telescope owners likely already have the necessary equipment to try this method. It's worth giving it a shot to improve your collimation accuracy.
ua-cam.com/video/BW6s59q-uME/v-deo.html
sometimes you gotta dew what you gotta dew
You know it dewd!
My girlfriend walked in on me during the flocking part… now she won’t stop saying “flocking”
Hahaha! You’re welcome! 😂