At 81 I just completed building a 4 X 4 CNC DIY router. Now is the time to learn. As I watched the making of these gears, I realized how much I enjoyed the lathe work. Back in the 50's, we had a lathe in the shop where I went to high school. I remember how I loved to mess with it wishing I had something I could build with it beside a head of a small hammer without a hole for the handle. Didn't follow that path, but wonder where I would have gone had I done so.
Funny, right before you switched over to the lathe I was thinking I would do the first op on bar stock in the lathe, forming the bore, steps, and face. Then run the teeth of the mill. I have a 3 jaw chuck mounted on the corner of my DM-2 for holding round stock.
mikeselectricstuff They actually used people to pull the Star Trek doors because the tech was just not there. Aluminium gears... As long as they are not loaded up. I love the "lets add some tech to solve an otherwise simple problem". It's also known as fun! Another great one John. Thanks.
Lathes are awesome! I find my manual lathe more therapeutic than using my CNC mill. Almost like driving a fun convertible on a winding road vs. racing a Ferrari at Laguna Seca :)
Hey John, you may want to try a pocket cycle on the rest material for the 2nd op. It works well and you don't have to worry about the rest material pulling up.
You absolutely MUST get one of those Arduino controllable MP3 modules to integrate with the controller for this; and load it up with the door sound effect from the Enterprise. They’re only a few $$$ on eBay; and would add SO much to this project. 😎
At 09:30, when you do final machining in a long bore with a end mill I often go counterclockwise to achieve a straighter hole, it's harder on the tool, but it leaves a straighter hole
.01 too deep or shallow on the backside chamfer? My guess is too deep? Has to do with the way the tool is ground, the tips don’t come to a perfectly sharp angle, or usually don’t, and there is a section of straight vertical flute where the angle meets the bottom. This will cause and issue in your height offsets and needs to be compensated for. It’s similar to how a chamfer mill has a small flat section at its tip and will cause chamfer dimension errors if it’s not compensated for.
Hi John, Yes Star Trek doors! So, are you using a worm screw to do the opening, or cables?? If worm, you could set the open speed quite fast for 90% of open travel, then ramp down to 0 velocity for the last 10% Closing, probably something OSHA might be comfortable with! What's the detection method, a IR sensor, or wearable trigger device? If the latter, don't forget to transponder the dog!!
hey john nice video. just a heads up your measuring technique, your putting to much pressure on your telescopic gauge with the outside mic and not sweeping the gauge past the anvils to find the highest point to get the most accurate measurement.
Next time you do a tabbing pass like that, you could save yourself some time (and cutter life) and just do it as a circle, rather than following the tooth profile! Cool project!
Hi John, my name is Andrei, I'm machinist too, you did a great job on those gears, you mentioned that you got dowel pin plug gauge from auction. I heard about machine shop auctions, but don't know where and whats the requirements. I need to get some tools. Thanks.
I feel like creating a CAM program and putting it in a cnc lathe for a simple facing operation for 2 parts rather than a manual lathe was extremely impractical but hey, made for excitement seeing it in a video
Nick O'Neill It wasn't really that impractical. It prob would have worked out the same, since you'd be taking measurements as you face it on the manual lathe. Maybe 2-3 measurements on the manual, vs one on the CNC. Also, maybe he had a 3 or 4-jaw chuck in the manual lathe, which would have taken even longer.
Nick O'Neill Or he didn’t have a collect adapter for the manual lathe... meaning couldn’t use the expansion mandrel and would have to mount and bore soft jaws. Where as the cnc lathe has a collet holder that will take the expansion mandrel no problem and the CAM for the lathe is like 5 clicks and 2 minutes...
CNC is really cool but facing the back of the part on a CNC lathe is way over kill. It most likely took almost as long to program than it would to just do it on a manual lathe.
I always machine bores with an adjustable boring head as I find milling them makes them slightly oval which then makes them run off on the lathe if you use an expanding mandrel.
The problem is in your machine if circles become ovals. Backlash, bearings shot, loose gibs, pitch error in screw etc. are all contributing factors. On a Quaser with Heidenhain measuring devices you get true circles within less than 0.01 mm roundness error :)
Yes that's fine but most of us can't afford that level of equipment! A boring head is £200-500 and will get less than 0.01mm on a good manual mill..but if you have the machine like a quasar yes you can mill the bores ;-)
Unless the purpose was to show us the tabbing feature or backside chamfer, I figured since you went with the lathe to finish the side, a smarter approach would be to just leave the tab out tool. Bandsaw the excess corners, and face off the whole thing. Also, seems weird that your Diameter offset is that large (.2471). Your toolpath should still be cutting on centerline. The only offset you should be putting in, is the distance you want to go. In Radial. So the number would be (-.0015). The controllers I use at work, always use this logic. Sounds normal to me.
It looked like you set your tool off of the bottom of the part based on the paper thing you were doing. Setting an offset from the top face you previously machined would have probably been a better choice.
Are you using an end Mill normal shape or formed type to that gear toot shape? Am here because someone said you can't cut a gear with an end Mill unless if its preformed to gear tooth form.... How true is this someone... Thanks
Oh no, how can you say such horrible things about the Queen of all tools! ;) Some great work there John, not sure about your choice of material, I think a plastic like HDPE might have been better all around. Very easy to get (cutting boards), cheaper than aluminium and I believe would wear better.
Wouldn't thinner material have sufficed? I mean, you cut of a whole ~5mm at the bottom, anyway. And did you reference the turning tool off of the bottom of the part? Then the dimensional error could fall under stock tolerance.
Why not just have a 3 point inside mic? I do gears and splines at work all the time. Had to learn how to use 500k€ coordinate measuring machine when making a set of gears. And dude, there's nothin wrong with lathes, I used to love mills but damn innit nice to say I drive 13 axis lathe :D
With the single point "seam" right across the center. Yeah was wondering this too. better yet, vs. the shear hog, why not just use an aluminum rougher, encircle the gear full depth, come up and encircle the hub, 1 tool. Finish the face, sides of the hub and face of the gear with finish tool, 2nd tool. Do your detail work on the gear and chamfer. Also, how can you not clock the part when it has an even number of teeth? Don't need soft jaws. Two teeth on top, two teeth on bottom, in the vise, parallels on each side of the hub to supprt. flip the part, run your rougher around the gear teeth in a circle coming in to remove all excess material staying .5 or whatever off the diameter. Rough the rest, finish face and chamfer. Low tool pressure and gtg.
Cinnabuns2009 Holding that gear by two teeth against each jaw of a vise would mean you'd have two narrow strips of contact between the part and each jaw. The contact patch would be basically nothing, it would be like holding a square piece of stock by the corners only. And since the pitch of those gears is probably about 0.75", you'd have over an inch and a half of leverage working against you. You might have noticed that the entire top appears to have been roughed out with the Sheer Hog (1 tool), as you've suggested. Why not full depth? Lack of rigidity is my guess. Once you've removed most of the stock material from around the gear you're left with only a thin piece being held between the jaws of the vises. Taking too rough of a cut with such a small amount of stock remaining could potentially lead to chatter.
ajtrvll Could be force of habit. It's nice to know after the first tool that your stock is at the exact height you think it is and since the SuperFly leaves such a good surface finish and is so efficient at removing material that it's pretty easy to start each job with it. Ever done a facing pass and look at the part to see some of the bar-stock finish is still visible? Maybe the stock wasn't flat or maybe it wasn't seated well in the vise or you messed up with setting the Z-0 point (or a dozen other possible reasons)... Well, if your facing pass is the first op, you can just lower the work offset and start over. No harm no foul. It sucks to have that happen when you've decided not to face the part until half way through the job because you were trying to save 20 seconds of machining.
That's what the parallels are for. They constrain the gear from twist. Sure it won't work using a gigantic cutter with a ton of tool pressure but it works fine when using a 1/2" rougher with very little tool pressure. I've done it so... yeah. Requires no setup, no dicking around with Tabs and what not and programing for an hour. Just flip the part in your 3D software, rotate it to the right alignment, remove the toolpaths you don't need, regen and run. Its not some stupid overly exotic solution but it works. I know he likes the shear hog. Every tool has its place. He uses it way too much for way too many things where its not even close to ideal or quick. Its like saying, "Let's use this 3" shell mill to do an adaptive rough on this gear." Could you do it? Sure. Why would you though? Why would you tell people that's how you're going to do it? For someone like NY CNC who "seems" to put so much thought in to things. There is surprisingly little thought put in to efficient toolpathing and tool choice, and optimal setups which if I don't get as the dude seems to be a smart clever guy.
@NYC CNC Nice job ! You could also have used the "picture frame" machining method. No need for soft jaws or a lathe setup. Just a little bit more material to keep a frame around that part. You put holes in the frame and bolt it directly on your table for the second operation. If you don't want to have bolt heads in your way, you can use Mitee-Bite Loc-Down system: www.miteebite.com/products/loc-down-system/ Happy machining !
most high-end machines work better with it off. Also, set your own defaults at any time. We are working on machine configs. That will then expand to drive machine specific defaults.
If the channel name was nyc manual, you would have save a slew of time on your second op, the first one... yeah about that, but the second would have been quicker on the old school lathe.
Well the 1st time, you see that nest at 16:50? lol Someday I am going to get John to fall in love with lathes and the things they can do so fast and so efficient!!
unless you are trying to teach the g54 and g55 commands with your setup, its a waste of time and redundant to have those 2 different parts setup the way to you did IMO. good job on the rest of the machining though.
If you cut it with machining, the module is not accurate, so it will probably use a hobbing machine, but at least precision wires are required but have you learned machining and design?
I think it converts the involute coordinate points to a multiples of close aproximate arc. The later would probably introduce more deviation from a true involute profile, affecting the final rotation accuracy of the gears, vibration, efficiency, noise and longevity. I could be over thinking it though
Americans are advanced and free, free is understood by thinking about the history of the country, Japan is bound by laws, individuals can not work freely, drawing can be written but I can not buy machine tools that are important, I also 3D printing and It is impossible to shoot machining sites in Japan that is mastering other technologies, and it is impossible to publish drawings, my property is drawing and processing technology, English is a bit difficult, but in either case I want to live in the United States and make only the things I like, I want to live, America is a free country
Cinnabuns2009 yeah fair enough when I seen what they were used for at the end of the video I realised they didn’t need to be strong tough ones, steel ones would have worked better tho
seriously, aluminum gears will be awful! remake one or both out of delrin or mds filled nylon. aluminum will gall very quickly if you don't run them so loose that they'll wear very quickly and jam up anyway. you'll be much happier with the nylon...........love the fusion tho! thanks
Have you found an easy way to select the contour of something that has many different segments like your gear in this video? It's a real pain trying to make sure you've selected EVERY segment!
why it was impossible to make a hole and a round part of the part and then expose it along the hole and make an outline.....?????????????WWTFFFFFFFFF dizzzzzzzzzz
At 81 I just completed building a 4 X 4 CNC DIY router. Now is the time to learn. As I watched the making of these gears, I realized how much I enjoyed the lathe work. Back in the 50's, we had a lathe in the shop where I went to high school. I remember how I loved to mess with it wishing I had something I could build with it beside a head of a small hammer without a hole for the handle. Didn't follow that path, but wonder where I would have gone had I done so.
Love the conversions bewtween "Merica" and Metric measurements ...nice.
The overlays from Fusion are some terrific editing!
Hey, thanks for translating into mm, great job!
Used the lathe? Subscribed!
Stefan Gotteswinter great foresight! Subscribing years prior to this novel idea. You should play the lottery more often ;)
Also great job with the lathe template, you've got the ingenuity to simplify what most people would overcomplicate
What ever you do please Please have it make the Star Trek door sound;0) PLEEEEAASSSEEEE
same thing i thought i went down to post and low and behold lmao
Better not be bad mouthing lathes! Turning is life for some of us.
Funny, right before you switched over to the lathe I was thinking I would do the first op on bar stock in the lathe, forming the bore, steps, and face. Then run the teeth of the mill. I have a 3 jaw chuck mounted on the corner of my DM-2 for holding round stock.
really liked the back chamfering, cool stuff. Thanks for sharing.
Star Trek doors..?
Yeah
mikeselectricstuff They actually used people to pull the Star Trek doors because the tech was just not there. Aluminium gears... As long as they are not loaded up. I love the "lets add some tech to solve an otherwise simple problem". It's also known as fun! Another great one John. Thanks.
I smell an Arduino in this project !
EXACTLY my first thought!! I needs to make the "swish" sound.
Maybe an air motor with dual valves would be a nice "swoosh"
Lathes are awesome! I find my manual lathe more therapeutic than using my CNC mill. Almost like driving a fun convertible on a winding road vs. racing a Ferrari at Laguna Seca :)
I would say double swinging doors for the win, but this is still going to be a cool project. :-) I just like to be able to just walk thru no waiting.
Great video. Wish you’d do something with solidworks
Hey John, you may want to try a pocket cycle on the rest material for the 2nd op. It works well and you don't have to worry about the rest material pulling up.
The lathe? Say it ain't so! Haha! Great video as usual.
Cracking good vid there, Thank you
You absolutely MUST get one of those Arduino controllable MP3 modules to integrate with the controller for this; and load it up with the door sound effect from the Enterprise. They’re only a few $$$ on eBay; and would add SO much to this project. 😎
More than a couple of good tricks. Always come away with something.
At 09:30, when you do final machining in a long bore with a end mill I often go counterclockwise to achieve a straighter hole, it's harder on the tool, but it leaves a straighter hole
Wait, you’re making your own Star Trek door? Badass...
.01 too deep or shallow on the backside chamfer? My guess is too deep?
Has to do with the way the tool is ground, the tips don’t come to a perfectly sharp angle, or usually don’t, and there is a section of straight vertical flute where the angle meets the bottom. This will cause and issue in your height offsets and needs to be compensated for.
It’s similar to how a chamfer mill has a small flat section at its tip and will cause chamfer dimension errors if it’s not compensated for.
Your editing is getting really good!
Hi John, Yes Star Trek doors! So, are you using a worm screw to do the opening, or cables?? If worm, you could set the open speed quite fast for 90% of open travel, then ramp down to 0 velocity for the last 10% Closing, probably something OSHA might be comfortable with! What's the detection method, a IR sensor, or wearable trigger device? If the latter, don't forget to transponder the dog!!
Perfect video!
hey john nice video. just a heads up your measuring technique, your putting to much pressure on your telescopic gauge with the outside mic and not sweeping the gauge past the anvils to find the highest point to get the most accurate measurement.
Turbo lift doors. Cool.😎
Enjoyed the vid John.
You and This Old Tony making gears in the same week? Making them the same way? I smell collusion! 😜
Nice work.
Next time you do a tabbing pass like that, you could save yourself some time (and cutter life) and just do it as a circle, rather than following the tooth profile!
Cool project!
Hi John, my name is Andrei, I'm machinist too, you did a great job on those gears, you mentioned that you got dowel pin plug gauge from auction. I heard about machine shop auctions, but don't know where and whats the requirements. I need to get some tools. Thanks.
Love that telescoping gauge. Never seen them before
Adam Smith
Pretty common to find in a set with od micrometers
I feel like creating a CAM program and putting it in a cnc lathe for a simple facing operation for 2 parts rather than a manual lathe was extremely impractical but hey, made for excitement seeing it in a video
Nick O'Neill It wasn't really that impractical. It prob would have worked out the same, since you'd be taking measurements as you face it on the manual lathe. Maybe 2-3 measurements on the manual, vs one on the CNC. Also, maybe he had a 3 or 4-jaw chuck in the manual lathe, which would have taken even longer.
Nick O'Neill
Or he didn’t have a collect adapter for the manual lathe... meaning couldn’t use the expansion mandrel and would have to mount and bore soft jaws. Where as the cnc lathe has a collet holder that will take the expansion mandrel no problem and the CAM for the lathe is like 5 clicks and 2 minutes...
I'd like to see some CNC lathe stuff if you have any more
I would love to see how you modeled the gear. That is something i have struggled with in the past.
CNC is really cool but facing the back of the part on a CNC lathe is way over kill. It most likely took almost as long to program than it would to just do it on a manual lathe.
I always machine bores with an adjustable boring head as I find milling them makes them slightly oval which then makes them run off on the lathe if you use an expanding mandrel.
The problem is in your machine if circles become ovals. Backlash, bearings shot, loose gibs, pitch error in screw etc. are all contributing factors. On a Quaser with Heidenhain measuring devices you get true circles within less than 0.01 mm roundness error :)
Yes that's fine but most of us can't afford that level of equipment! A boring head is £200-500 and will get less than 0.01mm on a good manual mill..but if you have the machine like a quasar yes you can mill the bores ;-)
I love the "merica, metric" comparison
Unless the purpose was to show us the tabbing feature or backside chamfer, I figured since you went with the lathe to finish the side, a smarter approach would be to just leave the tab out tool. Bandsaw the excess corners, and face off the whole thing.
Also, seems weird that your Diameter offset is that large (.2471). Your toolpath should still be cutting on centerline. The only offset you should be putting in, is the distance you want to go. In Radial. So the number would be (-.0015). The controllers I use at work, always use this logic. Sounds normal to me.
Well, that was interesting!
I'm surprised you don't have a 3 jaw chuck you can just bolt down on the mill table. Would have worked great to deck off the back of the gears.
It looked like you set your tool off of the bottom of the part based on the paper thing you were doing. Setting an offset from the top face you previously machined would have probably been a better choice.
Are you using an end Mill normal shape or formed type to that gear toot shape? Am here because someone said you can't cut a gear with an end Mill unless if its preformed to gear tooth form.... How true is this someone... Thanks
Oh no, how can you say such horrible things about the Queen of all tools! ;)
Some great work there John, not sure about your choice of material, I think a plastic like HDPE might have been better all around. Very easy to get (cutting boards), cheaper than aluminium and I believe would wear better.
Wouldn't thinner material have sufficed? I mean, you cut of a whole ~5mm at the bottom, anyway. And did you reference the turning tool off of the bottom of the part? Then the dimensional error could fall under stock tolerance.
Why not just have a 3 point inside mic? I do gears and splines at work all the time. Had to learn how to use 500k€ coordinate measuring machine when making a set of gears. And dude, there's nothin wrong with lathes, I used to love mills but damn innit nice to say I drive 13 axis lathe :D
What about invomilling a gear? Looking for info on program that in fusion 360.
Love the Video, just wish I had an 1100....
Can you share the rail guide system with the arduino solution, please? :)
What's the point of running the flywheel over the entire surface when the Shear-Hog carved most of it out except the very center?
With the single point "seam" right across the center. Yeah was wondering this too. better yet, vs. the shear hog, why not just use an aluminum rougher, encircle the gear full depth, come up and encircle the hub, 1 tool. Finish the face, sides of the hub and face of the gear with finish tool, 2nd tool. Do your detail work on the gear and chamfer. Also, how can you not clock the part when it has an even number of teeth? Don't need soft jaws. Two teeth on top, two teeth on bottom, in the vise, parallels on each side of the hub to supprt. flip the part, run your rougher around the gear teeth in a circle coming in to remove all excess material staying .5 or whatever off the diameter. Rough the rest, finish face and chamfer. Low tool pressure and gtg.
Cinnabuns2009
Holding that gear by two teeth against each jaw of a vise would mean you'd have two narrow strips of contact between the part and each jaw. The contact patch would be basically nothing, it would be like holding a square piece of stock by the corners only. And since the pitch of those gears is probably about 0.75", you'd have over an inch and a half of leverage working against you.
You might have noticed that the entire top appears to have been roughed out with the Sheer Hog (1 tool), as you've suggested. Why not full depth? Lack of rigidity is my guess. Once you've removed most of the stock material from around the gear you're left with only a thin piece being held between the jaws of the vises. Taking too rough of a cut with such a small amount of stock remaining could potentially lead to chatter.
ajtrvll
Could be force of habit. It's nice to know after the first tool that your stock is at the exact height you think it is and since the SuperFly leaves such a good surface finish and is so efficient at removing material that it's pretty easy to start each job with it.
Ever done a facing pass and look at the part to see some of the bar-stock finish is still visible? Maybe the stock wasn't flat or maybe it wasn't seated well in the vise or you messed up with setting the Z-0 point (or a dozen other possible reasons)... Well, if your facing pass is the first op, you can just lower the work offset and start over. No harm no foul. It sucks to have that happen when you've decided not to face the part until half way through the job because you were trying to save 20 seconds of machining.
Hirudin - Good point.
That's what the parallels are for. They constrain the gear from twist. Sure it won't work using a gigantic cutter with a ton of tool pressure but it works fine when using a 1/2" rougher with very little tool pressure. I've done it so... yeah. Requires no setup, no dicking around with Tabs and what not and programing for an hour. Just flip the part in your 3D software, rotate it to the right alignment, remove the toolpaths you don't need, regen and run. Its not some stupid overly exotic solution but it works.
I know he likes the shear hog. Every tool has its place. He uses it way too much for way too many things where its not even close to ideal or quick. Its like saying, "Let's use this 3" shell mill to do an adaptive rough on this gear." Could you do it? Sure. Why would you though? Why would you tell people that's how you're going to do it? For someone like NY CNC who "seems" to put so much thought in to things. There is surprisingly little thought put in to efficient toolpathing and tool choice, and optimal setups which if I don't get as the dude seems to be a smart clever guy.
I think the thickness error is because you touched off on a non reference surface with the lathe
How about a door?
What fun is that????
@NYC CNC
Nice job !
You could also have used the "picture frame" machining method.
No need for soft jaws or a lathe setup.
Just a little bit more material to keep a frame around that part.
You put holes in the frame and bolt it directly on your table for the second operation.
If you don't want to have bolt heads in your way, you can use Mitee-Bite Loc-Down system:
www.miteebite.com/products/loc-down-system/
Happy machining !
Why do not consider a pneumatic air cylinder to open your rubber door? Thanks for metric !
I wonder why F360 doesn't have smoothing as a default?
Dave Anderson cause some Controllers for example grbl cant handle it
MW Design either way, you should be able to default it one way or another. I think the vast majority of controllers can handle smoothing.
No.. they can handle it make the code smaller.. They can't all the point hence smoothing and it shortens the code length win in my book.
most high-end machines work better with it off. Also, set your own defaults at any time. We are working on machine configs. That will then expand to drive machine specific defaults.
If the channel name was nyc manual, you would have save a slew of time on your second op, the first one... yeah about that, but the second would have been quicker on the old school lathe.
I'll stick to making wooden gears lol. ;-)
Door opener? Hmm for the lathe?
Do cnc guys program tool paths to wear the ways evenly? I've always wondered this
how to make a tab like that in HSMWorks?
How well can you expect the tormach to interpolate a round hole?
hey your breaking chips on the lathe :)
:) :) :)
Well the 1st time, you see that nest at 16:50? lol Someday I am going to get John to fall in love with lathes and the things they can do so fast and so efficient!!
heh yikes i spoke too soon :) I can never seem to take a big enough cut to break chips myself. I need try some and learn more about inserts.
Use a boring head for perfectly round holes!
Aluminium for gears?!
unless you are trying to teach the g54 and g55 commands with your setup, its a waste of time and redundant to have those 2 different parts setup the way to you did IMO. good job on the rest of the machining though.
Why not backside camphor on the lathe?
When is the next episode on thie door being uploaded?
Cut close pitch less than 2mm teeth on milling machine
set the tabs to triangular so you are not plunging
Isn't that big of a deal, it it's hollow under the part, I think. Otherwise, yes, triangular tabs are the way to go.
If it could move it
I don't understand the material choice either. You are concerned about the bore enough to bush it, but not the gear teeth?
I feel an arduino project coming
10:42 you allready have path for finish that shape use tool radius compensation under cut it.like pros doing. no need cam
If you cut it with machining, the module is not accurate, so it will probably use a hobbing machine, but at least precision wires are required but have you learned machining and design?
Is there a downside to turning on smoothing? Seems like that should be the default.
I think it converts the involute coordinate points to a multiples of close aproximate arc. The later would probably introduce more deviation from a true involute profile, affecting the final rotation accuracy of the gears, vibration, efficiency, noise and longevity. I could be over thinking it though
Why did you backside chamfer them if it's going to be faced on the lathe?
Jonas Bandier he only faced the remaining material, not the chamfer
Americans are advanced and free, free is understood by thinking about the history of the country, Japan is bound by laws, individuals can not work freely, drawing can be written but I can not buy machine tools that are important, I also 3D printing and It is impossible to shoot machining sites in Japan that is mastering other technologies, and it is impossible to publish drawings, my property is drawing and processing technology, English is a bit difficult, but in either case I want to live in the United States and make only the things I like, I want to live, America is a free country
15:46 allways laught when cam is opened. you could have simple face off program and change ONE number size of stock lol maybe change second hole size.
I’m looking for a 60 degree v-bit that will cut aluminum. Is there anything out there?
Check out Harvey Tool's Drill/End Mill.
1:34 finally 10 thou 0.01.in universal its called hundred
Sounds like another arduino project!!
Who in their right mind would want aluminium gears, better make some more spare ones.👍🏼
Use 7075 and get them hard anodized maybe? I think its light duty...
Cinnabuns2009 yeah fair enough when I seen what they were used for at the end of the video I realised they didn’t need to be strong tough ones, steel ones would have worked better tho
But aluminum is lighter so less moment of inertia and John said they wanted fast. Less dead weight the better in that regard.
seriously, aluminum gears will be awful! remake one or both out of delrin or mds filled nylon. aluminum will gall very quickly if you don't run them so loose that they'll wear very quickly and jam up anyway. you'll be much happier with the nylon...........love the fusion tho! thanks
3D print the gears. Use nilon if you want but in any case 3d print is just fire and forget without all that CAM work.
Have you found an easy way to select the contour of something that has many different segments like your gear in this video?
It's a real pain trying to make sure you've selected EVERY segment!
There isn't a "chain select" in Fusion like in any other CAD/CAM?
why it was impossible to make a hole and a round part of the part and then expose it along the hole and make an outline.....?????????????WWTFFFFFFFFF
dizzzzzzzzzz
using a cnc for facing those is too much. a manual in this case may have been faster
merica!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! roflmfao
Besides, it's HAAS made in America made with poor accuracy
Mastercam 2019 is Better
merica / metric = lmao