Free flight rubber powered plane | Widgeon full build process
Вставка
- Опубліковано 9 сер 2020
- Buy the kit here: bit.ly/2Wv7SxK
Plans bit.ly/3iGg8qc
Building a classic model airplane free flight and rubber powered, from an old design from FROG, the WIDGEON is a nice a small first experience to anyone starting on the hobby, it uses balsa wood and tissue covering as the original model from 1954, these models are hard or impossible to find as a kit nowadays, that's why we are working on bringing this experience back, to the young and adult and anyone in between who want to start the hobby with this vintage but nice model. Most of the construction techniques are still the same and even the materials, that's why this is recommended for someone who wants to really understand the build process of model airplanes.
Our new website
en.joyplanes.com/
Become one of us:
goo.gl/zKQ706
Facebook
/ joyplanesrc
Instagram
/ joyplanes
List of equipment I use
Cameras
Sony a6300 amzn.to/2SrtciJ
Canon T5i amzn.to/2SrtciJ
Gopro amzn.to/2ECcDwW
Osmo pocket amzn.to/2IDO8mR
Sound
Zoom H1 amzn.to/2SzhOBy
Zoom H5 (clearer sound) amzn.to/2EAG6Hk
Microphone OLM-10 amzn.to/2EmLcFM
Lighting
LED amzn.to/2tHk5AA
LED ring amzn.to/2SrJvMo
Accessories
Tripod 1 amzn.to/2Svufhm
Tripod 2 amzn.to/2SrtUfT
#JoyplanesRC #HobbyRC - Навчання та стиль
Looks awesome
Titebond is much lighter & stronger glue. Shave the heavy prop blade with the knife edge as a scraper, & sand smooth.
This has to be one of the best videos I have seen of a complete build. Thank you so much for making this so easy to follow. You have kept it all nice and simple to follow.
Cheers.....Jim
cept forthe music
One seriously, cool dude!
Thank you for the fine video!
well done.....i fly gliders,.heli in 3D, old classic planes and 3D planes but i failed miserably at free flight and control line when i was a boy....... well done for cracking it... bravo.
Nice video! Thanks for posting 😎
Love your vids!
Pretty cool man!
This looks like a very solid strong built model airplane.Stronget than the Gillows model kits.
Please let me know when you are restocked.! Nice construction insights!
Nice
Great
This is quite a complex build. I was surprised
I built free flight models with PVA wood glue thinned about 10%. Balsa cement I found tended to dry out over time and pull away from the wood. Also the joints were brittle, whereas the PVA joints had a little flex so there was less damage in a heavy landing. A fully sheet tailplane (stabiliser) whilst simpler to build adds weight where you don't want it. I'd be looking to use 4 to 5 Lb/cubic foot wood for a solid tailplane if you want to follow the original FROG Widgeon design. Wood be useful to cut off a 10mm wide section of the tailplane trailing edge both sides then re attaching each piece with two 12mm lengths of 0.5mm soft iron wire that the Florists use. Secure the wire with thin cyano away from the hinge line. Use these to adjust flight elevation and turn.
To avoid cutting the plan you might find the use of a small cutting mat useful, say 150mm square. After final doping the wings must be checked for warps before flight. Any warps that have crept in can be straightened over a stream of steam from a boiling kettle. Good idea to have a little wash out at each wing tip by steaming the training edge up by 2 to 3mm as this will help prevent tip stalling and spinning in.
The "trick" to making those small models fly well is to use as light a balsa wood as possible except for the wing spars which should be 12 to 14 lb/cubic foot wood. The original kit manufacturers tended to use heavier wood as light wood does not die cut well and lasers hadn't been invented 60 years ago!
great
I ordered mine !! So excited!! Shipping cost just as much as the plane lol !
Thanks! and yes, from anywhere in Europe shipping to the US is a bit expensive. Check your email for more info about your item.
Very nice. Looks like a good candidate for some micro r/c gear too.
No, he's too heavy. Even now with rubber band can't fly well.
I think adding 4" to each wingtip would give a very nice RC model. Modern radios have plenty of mixing options, so the V-tail would be all the control you'd need.
Eres increíble me gusta mucho tu trabajo ,estoy planeando comprarlo pero me preocupa el envío ya que soy de México
I've been building a Dumas kit and the laser cut parts are a godsend. My least favorite part of guillows kits I would make as a kid was cutting out and sanding all the pieces because the die cutter at the factory was dull or didn't cut all the way thru. I built the laser cut 'fly boy' from guillows and it was a really great intro to building for me. Cheers!
Did u do ALL the steps shown here? The whole step of preventing warping to the wing was too confusing and seemed to requires more patience than I have...up until that I enjoyed this build
@Joyplanes RC what was the total finished weight of your plane including rubber, prop and nose weight etc.? Mine has come out close to 50g all up weight which seems on the high side.
You are using the wrong adhesive for these type of wooden kits made mainly out of Balsa (with some additional Spruce/Beech in it). Either use "UHU Hart" or "Aliphatic Resin Wood Glue". The type of UHU you used for your built is rather a general purpose hobby glue and not well suited for this type of application.
It still worked tho
This is the old 'FROG' kit. How can they get away without giving credit. If I were building a balsa kit, I would use balsa cement.
I wanna get it!!
28:27, the wing profile used will make relatively less lift during ascent, and more during 'glide'.
You are a pro dude.I love your vedios.
Glad you like them!
@@Joyplanes I am happy
to talk with you.
I love this, do you ship to Nigeria please 🙏
i thought about a rubberprop to save a Motor . A glider would get into the height of 100 m?
Use a thin cyano glue to actually penetrate the wood and give good adhesion
Great stuff but not advisable to cut on plans.
Put some weight on the nose just like in the video, otherwise it won’t fly. That’s something that should be in the instructions. The alternative is to beef up the front end, maybe a hardwood nose block.
Thanks for posting. What do you call the T-shaped nails? My wife tells me they are called Blocking Pins.
Simply perfect and clean admire from Bharat (india in English).
28:50, the stabs are HEAVY.!!! they SHOULD be FRAMED, with symmetrical profile.
Nice tutorial again ....can you help me I couldn't find balsa wood and covering tissue... What to do ?
Look online! Many places sell balsa wood, and about the covering tissue is a bit harder to find but not impossible.
Joyplanes rc,Please make a cessna.
Por cierto yo fui tu décimo like
19:57, wouldn't it be easier, and more efficient/precise to glue the paper to the edge, then gently sand the paper until it falls off?
Where do you buy your models and supplies.
Têm este kit Pará vender nó Brasil oqué posso está fazendo Pará adiquiri um kit fico muito agradecido Antônio de Jesus tonho sp Brasil
Neat! do you ship to the USA 🇺🇸 ?
Yes we do
You could get away with less nose weight and further back c of g and less decalage. I don’t like Uhu adhesive for this. Aliphatic glue is good as is cyano. Britfix balsa cement was good but no longer available. You could lengthen the nose and longer rubber motor will give better flights. There are limitations with this sort of small model. It’s very suitable for electric though. The balance is better and with a small lipo longer flights are possible.
I would like to purchase one of these kits. Are you planning on making another run?
Won't the caster oil affect the tissue on the body?
Yes. It does. That’s why some use tissue over Mylar covering.
it Should be understood that an aircraft flies well when its elevator trim is optimal.! in the case of a free-flight model 'elevator trim' is FIXED; and so, some nose-up trim MUST BE built into the h-stab.!!
Your link to buy the model does not work
it appears that your adhesive of choice is Heavier, and possible less-effective than, wood CEMENT or CA.!!! which is what SHOULD be used for wood to wood joins.
The ruvver plane is not valans.
I love this. I wonder how hard it would be to do your own desired hull configuration (imaginary or based on history) if you simply took the time to balance it? (Presuming what it's based on actually flies.)
Great video but music doesn't fit with a relaxing hobby
Why Rubber band when we have motors 🤦♂️, rubber band planes make me go crazy when they crash again and again.
"How to build the heaviest rubber powered plane"
when he worried about the tissue warping that wing lol
@AdamantineAxe can that step be avoided?
You don't need to push
Throw it gentle so it flight to USA😂😂😂
looks like an old Frog kit.,Yes.Just checked.This is a copy of the old "Frog" widgeon.
You can find the plans at "House of Frog" web site.
Has Joyplanes RC bought the rights to Frog's catalogue?
No, we just made this plane but where can I contact them?
@@Joyplanes i think the company went out of business years ago.all there plans are free online. www.houseoffrog.co.uk/
That's the same website we used and yes it is a very old company.
Honestly, you could make an model from the foam board that would be better than Balsa.. -- Directly replacing balsa with foam, you can build a better more durable and lighter model ( still covered in tissue paper ) from the foam board..
I'm not sure, the foam will flex over time and loose shape.
So much glue, so much weight.
avec sa uhu on se croirait retourner en ...1971, lol
Plz replay me
Yes
I'd really love to finish watching BUT you need to stop that noise you call "music"? I can't mute the video or I can't hear what you're saying, but I can't stand the racket either!!!
sited dead 404
music is horrible